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For me it’s the Prancing Pony, the inn kept by Barliman Butterbur in Bree in the Lord of the rings – a place where merry men sing and swing beakers of beer, a bit rowdy, with dark and gloomy corners and an open fire where a piglet is roasting. Though in my dream there is also plenty of good wine, served in Leather Wine Pouch, as in many an illustration of Friar Tuck in Robin Hood.

Well as in most cases reality and the romantic description found in literature and films does not correspond with reality. What we get served up as rustic and charming milieus were probably in reality rather murky, ill-smelling and mundane.

Currently I’m reading a book by Lorenzo Magalotti; Sverige under år 1674 (Sweden during the year 1674 aka Relazione del rigno di Svezia nel 1674) – a hand written journal, transcribed and then published by Carl Magnus Stenbock1912, in Swedish. This journal is perhaps best described as a spy-report or an intelligence report.

Lorenzo Magalotti (1637-1712) was an Italian count who travelled the north of Europe and came to Sweden in 1674. There are also several sketches from his journeys. He entered Sweden in June in Scania coming from Copenhagen and travelled north and left in September. Somewhere along the way he stopped by this Krog or Inn– perhaps better described as a kiosk or a McDonalds of that day. 

Where this particular krog was situated is not mentioned but for sure it was somewhere in Sweden.

I must confess that even though this looks rather tidy it’s not quite the Prancing Pony – is it? but still it’s neither that far from either

Lorenzo Magalotti describes what it could be like when you travelled through the Swedish countryside. The trip went by horse and carriage, at certain stops the horses are changed and at these stops you can also stay the night and get something to eat, though he wasn’t all that fond of the food. The usual food was goose, salted and smoked pork and/or beef. Occasionally there was also milk, eggs and butter available. To this they served beer, which was kept in wooden vessels that are coated with resin. The beer was thick, black and tasted of smoke.

When I look at these thing my reading list grows bigger, now I stumbled upon a book by Ulrica Söderlind På krogen med Linné: sjökrogar och svensk 1700-talsgastronomi (At the tavern/Inn with Linné: sea taverns/inns and the gastronomy of the 18th century in Sweden) from 2008 that I need to get hold of and read.

Magnus Reuterdahl

Magnus Reuterdahl

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IF I WERE to design the perfect city, it would be like Paramaribo. It would all be painted white and have a river running through it. There’d be plantations and fruit trees and little canals would ripple through the centre. There’d be no business district or overbearing banks and nothing would be taller than a church. At the heart of it all would be a little purple fortress, like a hatful of mansions. There’d be no trains or Tubes or public lavatories. By day, the presidential palace would glow like a wedding cake and then, by night, it would turn green and flare like a planet.

As for embassies, there’d be only nine, including a tiny bungalow for the entire US. But temples would spring up out of the foliage, along with stupas, pagodas and funeral ghats. There’d also be a mosque and a synagogue, huddled so close that they’d share a car park. Meanwhile, the police would be called the Korps Politie and would wear white gloves and ride around on bicycles. There’d also be an alligator in the city’s pond, eating all the strays.

Oddly, this was once one of the greatest cities of the 18th century. In 1674, the British had swapped Suriname for New York and were lampooned for their folly. Under the Dutch, the colony grew fabulously rich on sugar and became a Georgian treasure. And that, broadly speaking, is what it remains today.

I spent my first day falling in love with Suriname and the rest of my time wondering quite why. It wasn’t that I ever fell out of love; just that things stopped making sense.

Isolation, I now realise, explains a lot. About twice the size of Ireland, Suriname is stuck up on the north-east shoulder of South America. Forest covers 90 per cent of it and the trees run straight into the sea. There are no natural harbours, no railways and hardly any roads. Without a plane, it takes weeks to get inland. The jungle is slashed by thousands of rivers and new creatures are always tumbling out of the dark. To some, it’s hell. To others, it’s an ecological paradise.

But bewilderment soon set in. How, I wondered, had Suriname ended up with square coins? Or a banknote for 2½ dollars? And why were all the advertisements in English, a language only a few understood? The big poster at the time depicted a woman in a state of advanced ecstasy under the banner: “Did you already find spice?” I simply couldn’t imagine what she wanted me to buy. Everything began well when I booked into a guest house in Paramaribo. It was a wooden building with an old slave house at the back. The other guests were mostly Surinamese and treated it like home. Some left their babies at reception. When I commented on this, I was told: “Everything’s a bit crazy here. You should try the shopping.”

I soon got the idea. The shops all looked normal at first, selling jeans and drums and crossbows. Then I saw that the largest shop sold only Christmas baubles and that some places opened only at lunchtime, or on Wednesdays, or for a few hours at dawn. Even when they were open, they were confusing; there was a Soviet-style queuing system and some items, such as cloth, were still measured out in Dutch feet or Rhenish els. More straightforward was the witches’ market, where you could buy anything from a cure for husbands to a bundle of tampons grown in the forest.

In the middle of the city was a large grassy field, known a little grandly as Independence Square. This was the Paramaribo I loved. Around it were palm trees and mangos, the wedding-cake palace and a splendidly crooked old courthouse, which looked like the backdrop to a Rembrandt. I noticed it wasn’t just me; everyone loved it here. Each afternoon, people would appear with kites and easels, or would dance in the grass.

It was hard to think of a city that looked so readily happy.

But there was another presence in the city and that was the maroons.

These were the descendants of slaves who’d escaped into the forest. They looked different from everyone else, in their breeches and togas. Often they behaved as if they owned the city, which worried everyone else. In 1762, the maroons were so numerous they threatened the colony. Eventually, the Dutch were forced to grant them the interior and that’s where they’ve been ever since. Now there are 50,000 maroons and – although the Dutch left in 1975 – an old standoff continues. No one visits the interior unless the maroons agree.

Despite this, I enjoyed my trips inland. The maroons had long ago re-formed into tribes and lived secretive lives. On my first outing, I flew 320 kilometres inland to visit the Saramaka tribe. Although, at Awarradam, they’d built a pretty lodge for visitors, they were reluctant hosts. Anthropologists say it’s their ancestral dread of re-enslavement. Anyway, everything was hidden from view: canoes, paths and villages. Even their farms were tucked away, deep in the jungle. But it was also a beautiful world. Their houses were like little wooden cabinets, decorated with the art of Ashanti, circa 1730.

After that, I made several more trips inland. My last involved a canoe ride up the Marowijne River. There were 12 of us on board, including a cook, a guide and Jacobus, the boatman. Jacobus was a Paramaccaner maroon and barely acknowledged us. Being aloof and alone was, I suppose, the secret of the maroons’ survival. Once, I asked him about the tooth around his neck. “Jaguar. I kill him,” he said and then never spoke again.

Ahead, a fabulous landscape unravelled. Although the Marowijne was almost 1.6 kilometres wide, it was barely navigable. The water looked as if it had been ploughed and then thrown down the stairs. Sometimes we saw whole islands of vegetation hurtling past, like gardens on the move. Along the length of the river, there were 87 sets of rapids, each one a squall of gnashing and froth.

We stayed opposite a maroon island, at a camp named Loka Loka, in rooms like beach huts. By day, the entire landscape seemed to slide past, steaming and restless; at night, there was a constant rumble like some great migration of watery hooves. Each morning, Jacobus took us out on the river.

Once, we went swimming in the rapids, which was like plunging into a washing machine that’s rinsing out old trees.

On our last day, we went into the jungle. Being Suriname, everything was slightly outlandish. Here were armoured trees, towering waterfalls and spiders as big as your hand. Some creatures were so surprised to see us they didn’t move. Poison dart frogs just sat there, tempting us to touch. And this was only the beginning of a weird world. Beyond us lay 90 per cent of Suriname, barely explored.

Wild Coast: Travels on South America’s Untamed Edge by John Gimlette is published by Profile.

Trip notes

Getting there

Via Europe, KLM Airlines flies to Paramaribo from Amsterdam. Via the US, American Airlines flies from Miami to Paramaribo.             1300 939 414      , flightcentre.com.au.

Touring there

Contours Travel includes Suriname in its 13-day Best of the Three Guianas itinerary, from $5630, twin share. 1300135391, contourstravel.com.au.

Guyana-based Wilderness Explorers offers two-week, tailor-made trips to Suriname from about $7635 for two.             +592 227 7698 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +592 227 7698      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      , wilderness-explorers.com.

Getting around

In Paramaribo, you can hire a bicycle for about $16 a day. However, beyond the city, there are few roads. On these, minibuses (or “wagis”) are plentiful and cheap. A taxi from Paramaribo to the border with French Guiana can be arranged from about $83. All other transportation is by small plane. Visits to the maroons are best arranged through an operator.

Staying there

In the Saramaka’s territory, a stay at the Awarradam Lodge costs about $738 for three nights, including flights. This trip can be arranged locally through the government agency METS.             +597 477 088 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 477 088      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      , surinamevacations.com.

A trip up the Marowijne river (to Paramaccaner territory) can also be arranged locally, through Blue Frog Travel.             +597 420 808 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 420 808      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      , bluefrogtravel.net.

Albergo Alberga is excellent, inexpensive and basic, with a small swimming pool; bike rental available. From $23 a night.             +597 520 050 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 520 050      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      , guesthousealbergoalberga.com.

Zus & Zo is a lively backpacker guest house; bike rental available. From $20 a night.             +597 520 905 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 520 905      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      , zusenzosuriname.com.

Hotel La Petite Maison offers old-world charm on the waterfront. From $75 a night.             +597 475 466 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 475 466      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      , hotellapetitemaison.com.

The Hotel Torarica is a large, modern hotel on the river, catering mostly to Dutch tourists. From $83 a night.             +597 471 500 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 471 500      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      , torarica.com.

Eating there

Among the most popular local dishes are oliebollen (oily bread), pom (yam), bami kip (chicken noodles) and pinda soep with tom tom (peanut soup with plantain). The main alcoholic drink is beer (Parbo), which is excellent. The rum is also good but wine is expensive. In the maroon areas, the lodges tend to provide Western food.

Jasmine Good serves reasonable Indian cuisine across from Hotel Torarica. 85B Kleine Dwarsstraat,             +597 473 558 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 473 558      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      .

The Sidewalk Cafe ‘t VAT is opposite the Torarica Hotel and is popular with Dutch tourists. Excellent bar food and beer.

De Waag is a more upmarket establishment on the Waterkant. Nearby, the food stalls along the river wall serve good local dishes, freshly cooked.             +597 474 514 begin_of_the_skype_highlighting            +597 474 514      end_of_the_skype_highlighting      .

More information

suriname-tourism.net.

Five other things to do

1. Don’t miss Paramaribo’s Fort Zeelandia, which was begun by the British in the 1650s. For a more recent star fort, visit New Amsterdam in the river mouth.

2. Nearby are the Commewijne plantations. In the 1700s, they were among the most prosperous agricultural lands in the world. Today, only a few of the hundreds of great mansions survive. Despite the ever-present reminders of slavery (only abolished here in 1870), it’s a beautiful world of mangrove, forest and lush farmland.

3. Best known for its turtles, Galibi is an Amerindian village at the mouth of the Marowijne river. It’s home to 750 Kalinja Amerindians. There’s also a beautiful sandy beach and in the laying season (February-August) the sea turtles come here to nest.

4. The Brownsberg nature reserve, 130 kilometres from Paramaribo, can be reached either by tour bus or by plane. At a height of 500 metres, it’s a fabulous introduction to the flora and fauna of the Guianas. From the Mazaroni Plateau, there’s a remarkable view over a vast area of flooded forest, the Brokopondo Lake.

5. At the west of the country, bordering Guyana, Nieuw Nickerie was developed by the British during the Napoleonic Wars. Today it’s a Dutch-influenced colonial town, criss-crossed with canals, and the centre of the rice industry. Nearby is Bigi Pan, a nature area.

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1. The evil of a wandering and a gossiping spirit; this is evil in the church, and is evil also in a wife, who is the figure of a church. Christ loveth to have his spouse keep at home; that is, to be with him in the faith and practice of his things, not ranging and meddling with the things of Satan; no more should wives be given to wander and gossip abroad. You know that Proverbs 7:11 saith, ‘She is loud and stubborn; her feet abide not in her house.’ Wives should be about their own husbands’ business at home; as the apostle saith, Let them ‘be discreet, chaste, keepers at home, good, obedient to their own husbands.‘ And why? Because otherwise ‘the word of God will be blasphemed’ (Titus 2:5).

2. Take heed of an idle, talking, or brangling tongue. This also is odious, either in maids or wives, to be like parrots, not bridling their tongue; whereas the wife should know, as I said before, that her husband is her lord, and is over her, as Christ is over the church. Do you think it is seemly for the church to parrot it against her husband? Is she not to be silent before him, and to look to his laws, rather than her own fictions? Why so, saith the apostle, ought the wife to carry it towards her husband? ‘Let the woman,’ saith Paul, ‘learn in silence with all subjection. But I suffer not a woman to teach, nor to usurp authority over the man, but to be in silence‘ (1 Tim 2:11, 12). It is an unseemly thing to see a woman so much as once in all her lifetime to offer to overtop her husband; she ought in everything to be in subjection to him, and to do all she doth, as having her warrant, licence, and authority from him. And indeed here is her glory, even to be under him, as the church is under Christ: Now ‘she openeth her mouth with wisdom, and in her tongue is the law of kindness’ (Prov 31:26).

3. Take heed of affecting immodest apparel, or a wanton gait; this will be evil both abroad and at home; abroad, it will not only give ill example, but also tend to tempt to lust and lasciviousness; and at home it will give an offence to a godly husband, and be cankering to ungodly children, &c. Wherefore, as saith the apostle, Let women’s apparel be modest, as becometh women professing godliness, with good works, ‘not with broidered hair, or gold, or pearls, or costly array’ (1 Tim 2:9, 10). And as it is said again, ‘Whose adorning, let it not be that outward adorning of plaiting the hair, and of wearing of gold, or of putting on of apparel: But let it be the hidden man of the heart, in that which is not corruptible, even the ornament of a meek and quiet spirit, which is in the sight of God of great price. For after this manner in the old time the holy women also, who trusted in God, adorned themselves, being in subjection unto their own husbands’ (1 Peter 3:3-5).

But yet, do not think that by the subjection I have here mentioned, that I do intend women should be their husbands’ slaves. Women are their husbands’ yoke fellows, their flesh and their bones; and he is not a man that hateth his own flesh, or that is bitter against it (Eph 5:29). Wherefore, let every man ‘love his wife even as himself; and the wife see that she reverence her husband’ (Eph 5:33). The wife is master next her husband, and is to rule all in his absence; [13] yea, in his presence she is to guide the house, to bring up the children, provided she so do it, as the adversary have no occasion to speak reproachfully (1 Tim 5:10, 13). ‘Who can find a virtuous woman? for her price is far above rubies. A gracious woman retaineth honour:’ and guideth her affairs with discretion (Prov 31:10; 11:16; 12:4).

Second, She should therefore be subject to him, as is fit in the Lord. The apostle saith, ‘That the wife should submit herself to her husband, as to the Lord’ [12] (1 Peter 3:1;Col 3:18; Eph 5:22). I told you before, that if the husband doth walk towards his wife as becomes him, he will therein be such an ordinance of God to her, besides the relation of a husband, that shall preach to her the deportment of Christ to his church. And now I say also, that the wife, if she walk with her husband as becomes her, she shall preach the obedience of the church to her husband. ‘Therefore as the church is subject unto Christ, so let the wives be to their own husbands in everything’ (Eph 5:24).

Teaching husbands, wives, parents, children, masters, servants, etc., how to walk so as to please G O D.

By J O H N. B U N Y A N.

1674.

THE DUTY OF WIVES.

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Observations about the growth of tin

AN ancient Owner of Mines, being asked by me, Whether he could, otherwise than upon the Conjectures of vulgar Tradition, prove, that Minerals grow even after the Veins have been dug? Answer’d affirmatively; and being desired to let me know his proofs, he gave me these that follow.

He told me, that not far from his House there was a Tin-Mine, which the old Diggers affirm’d to have been left off, some said eighty, some an hundred & twenty years ago, because they had by their washing and vanning separated all the Ore from the rest of the Earth, and yet of late years they found it so richly impregnated with Metalline Particles, that it was wrought over again with very good profit, and preferr’d to some other Mines that were actually wrought, and had never been so robb’d. And when I objected, that probably this might proceed from the laziness and unskilfulness of Workmen in those times, who left in the Earth the Tin that was lately separated, and might then have been so; I was answer’d, that ’twas a known thing in the Country, that in those times the Mine-men were more careful and laborious to separate the Metalline part from the rest of the Ore, than now they are.

He also affirmed to me, that in his own time some Tenants and Neighbours of his (imploy’d by him) having got all the Ore they could out of a great quantity of stuff, dug out of a Tin-Mine, they laid the remains in great heaps expos’d to the Air, and within twenty and thirty years after, found them so richly impregnated, that they wrought them over again with good benefit.

And lastly he assured me, that, in a Work of his own, wherein he had exercis’d his skill and experience, (which is said to be very great) to separate all the particles of the Tin from the Terrestrial substances, that were dug up with it out of the Vein, he caus’d Dams to be made to stop the Earthy Substance, which the Stream washed away from the Ore, giving passage to the water after it had let fall this Substance, which lying in heaps expos’d to the Air, within ten or twelve years, and sometimes much less, he examin’d this or that heap, and found it to contain such store of Metalline particles, as invited him to work it again and do it with profit. And yet this Gentleman was so dexterous at separating the Metalline from the other parts of Tin-Ore, that I could (not without wonder) see what small Corpuscles he would, to satisfie my Curiosity, sever from vast quantities (in proportion) of Earthy and other Mineral stuff.

Relations agreeable to these, I received from another very ingenious Gentleman that was conversant with Tin-Mines, and lived not far from more than one of them. (pp.3-6)

Boyle continues through lead, iron, silver and gold, mixing testimony from unnamed ingenious gentlemen conversant with metal mining with books and travel reports. There is an article discussing Boyle’s sources online here

“On the Late Late Massacre in Piedmont”

Avenge, O Lord, thy slaughtered saints, whose bones

Lie scattered on the Alpine mountains cold;

Ev’n them who kept the truth so pure of old,

When all our fathers worshipped stocks and stones,

Forget not: in thy book record their groans

Who were thy sheep, and in their ancient fold

Slain by the bloody Piedmontese, that rolled

Mother with infant down the rocks.  Their moans

The vales redoubled to the hills, and they

To heav’n.  Their martyred blood and ashes sow

O’er all th’ Italian fields, where still doth sway

The triple Tyrant that from these may grow

A hundredfold, who, having learnt thy way,

Early may fly the Babylonian woe.

John Milton, one of the greatest (if not the greatest) poet of England died 11/6/1674 in London.  He is best known for Paradise Lost (1667), Paradise Regained (1671) but this is a good sonnet of his.  Milton was a philosopher, hynmist, poet, and theologian.