On December 18:

1271  Kublai Khan renamed his empire “Yuan” (元 yuán), officially marking the start of the Yuan Dynasty of Mongolia and China.

Mayflower in Plymouth Harbor by William Halsall (1882)

1642  Abel Tasman and his men had the first known European encounter with Maori.

1707 Charles Wesley, English Methodist hymnist, was born.

1777 The United States celebrated its first Thanksgiving, marking the recent victory by the Americans over General John Burgoyne in the Battle of Saratoga in October.

1778 Joseph Grimaldi, English clown, was born.

1849 Henrietta Edwards, Canadian women’s rights activist, was born.

1863 Franz Ferdinand, Archduke of Austria, was born.

1878 Joseph Stalin, leader of the Soviet Union, was born.

1888 – Richard Wetherill and his brother in-law discovered the ancient Indian ruins of Mesa Verde.

1890  Edwin Armstrong, American inventor (FM radio) was born.

1898  Gaston de Chasseloup-Laubat set the new land speed record going 39.245 mph (63.159 km/h), in a Jeantaud electric car. This is the first recognized land speed record.

1900 The Upper Ferntree Gully to Gembrook Narrow-gauge (2 ft 6 in or 762 mm) Railway (now the Puffing Billy Railway) in Victoria, Australia opened.

 The Monbulk Creek Trestle Bridge.

1905 – Irving Kahn, American financial analyst and investor, was born.

1908  Celia Johnson, English actress, was born.

1910 – Eric Tindill, New Zealand cricketer and rugby player, was born.

1912 The Piltdown Man, later discovered to be a hoax, was found in the Piltdown Gravel Pit, by Charles Dawson.

1913 Willy Brandt, Chancellor of Germany, recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize, was born.

1916  Betty Grable, American actress, was born.

1935  Jacques Pépin, French chef, was born.

1938 Chas Chandler, English musician (The Animals), was born.

1943  Keith Richards, English guitarist (The Rolling Stones), was born.

1946  Steve Biko, South African anti-apartheid activist, was born.

1946 – Steven Spielberg, American film director, was born.

1963 Brad Pitt, American actor, was born.

1966 Saturn’s moon Epimetheus is discovered by Richard L. Walker.

1969  Home Secretary James Callaghan’s motion to make permanent the Murder (Abolition of Death Penalty) Act 1965, which had temporarily suspended capital punishment in England, Wales and Scotland for murder (but not for all crimes) for a period of five years, was carried by both the House of Commons and the House of Lords.

1973 Soyuz 13, crewed by cosmonauts Valentin Lebedev and Pyotr Klimuk, was launched from Baikonur in the Soviet Union.

1987  Larry Wall released the first version of the Perl programming language.

1997  HTML 4.0 was published by the World Wide Web Consortium.

1999 NASA launched into orbit the Terra platform carrying five Earth Observation instruments, including ASTER, CERES, MISR, MODIS and MOPITT.

Sourced from NZ History Online & Wikipedia.

As every schoolchild knows, December 13 is the day the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman (namesake of Tasmania, the Tasman Sea, the Tasmanian tiger, etc.) first set European eyes on Nieuw Zeeland (later Anglicized to New Zealand), in 1642. And December 13 happened to be the day we came north to the Bay of Islands, where British rule over New Zealand started almost two hundred years later.

Unlike New Netherland, which the Dutch bought from the Indians and later surrendered to the British who renamed it New York, the Dutch didn’t settle New Zealand–because during Tasman’s discovery voyage he lost four sailors to the Maori. The fierceness of the Maori was also the reason the British didn’t rush into settle New Zealand. In need of a new penal colony after Georgia became unavailable in 1776, they looked for new spots in the Antipodes. They decided on Australia, as it had less threatening natives than New Zealand.

Europeans started arriving anyway, causing trouble among themselves and with the Maori, so in 1832 the British government named a British Resident (at half pay). Here’s his house:

and part of his garden:

In his front yard in 1840, the British and the Maoris signed the Treaty of Waitanga, to resolve issues of sovereignty over the land (and to give the British a document they could use to keep out the French, who had designs on the south island). Not surprisingly, considering the disparate languages and cultures, the Maoris and the British interpreted the treaty differently, and it is still at the center of land claims.

Given that the Treaty was the founding document of British New Zealand, it’s a bit surprising that the house and land were virtually abandoned for decades until, in the early 1930s, a Governor-General (representative of the British Crown in New Zealand) and his wife used their own funds to buy the property and give it to the country, in time to have it fixed up for the centennial of the signing. Maori tribes from all over the country donated a meeting house and a war canoe:

named after the legendary first Polynesian canoe to visit New Zealand a thousand years ago.

Across the bay from the Treaty Grounds

is the little town of Russell, the first European settlement in New Zealand, where whalers and merchant ships stopped. Although its original Maori name meant “Sweet blue penguin” (apparently blue penguin meat was tasty), its nickname by the time of the treaty was “the hell-hole of the Pacific,” as it was full of brothels and bars and devoid of law enforcement. It became New Zealand’s first capital (briefly—the capital moved twice, as it did in the young United States). Among its more attractive buildings are the oldest extant church (1830s, remodeled 1870s) in New Zealand, of which I couldn’t take a decent exterior photo, so here are a stained glass window:

and several of the dozens of needlepoint pew cushions with local scenes, native birds, and the like:

and the 1860s police station and residence, under a massive Moreton bay fig tree:

Above the main street is the most expensive overnight accommodation in New Zealand, at five figures. Yup, the former “hell-hole of the Pacific” is now a major tourist destination. The Bay of Islands is full of fancy B&Bs, a wide range of motels (including very modest places catering to backpackers), every kind of boat hire you could wish (except maybe an ice cutter, and the last whaler disappeared a century ago), and loads of restaurants and take-away places—and with only one McDonald’s.

On December 13:

1577 Sir Francis Drake set out from Plymouth, England, on his round-the-world voyage.

1642  Towards noon the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman sighted ‘a large land, uplifted high’. This was the first recorded sighting of New Zealand by a European.

1769 Dartmouth College was founded by the Rev. Eleazar Wheelock, with a Royal Charter from King George III.

1816 Ernst Werner von Siemens, German engineer, inventor, and industrialist, was born.

1903 Carlos Montoya, Spanish guitarist, was born.

1906 Sir Laurens van der Post, South African author, was born.

1925 Dick Van Dyke, American actor and comedian was born.

1929 Christopher Plummer, Canadian actor, was born.

1936 Prince Karim Aga Khan (Aga Khan IV), Imam (leader) of the Shia Imami Ismaili Muslims, was born.

1939 Battle of the River Plate : At 6.21 a.m. on 13 December 1939, the cruiser HMS Achilles opened fire on the German ‘pocket battleship’ Admiral Graf Spee in the South Atlantic. It became the first New Zealand unit to strike a blow at the enemy in the Second World War.

1948 Jeff Baxter, American guitarist (Steely Dan, The Doobie Brothers).

1949 Paula Wilcox, English actress, was born.

1954 Tamora Pierce, American author, was born.

1959 Archbishop Makarios became the first President of Cyprus.

1961 Irene Saez, Miss Universe 1981 and Venezuelan politician, was born.

1974 Malta became a republic.

1981 General Wojciech Jaruzelski declared martial law in Poland to prevent dismantling of the communist system by Solidarity.

1996 Kofi Annan was elected as Secretary-General of the United Nations.

2003  Former Iraqi President Saddam Hussein was captured near his home town of Tikrit (see Operation Red Dawn).

2004 Former Chilean dictator, General Augusto Pinochet was put under house arrest, after being sued under accusations over 9 kidnapping actions and manslaughter. The house arrest was lifted the same day on appeal.

Sourced from NZ History Online & Wikipedia.

After pretty ok night sleep we wake up at 07:30 to the sound of an alarm clock. Quick tea and we drive to the kayak place. We wait for the others to show up and after a short briefing we walk across the sands in the bay. The tide is very low so they use a cute orange tractor to pull the yellow sea kayaks to the shore line.

We hop in the kayaks and slowly make our way along the coast of Abel Tasman NP. There is a bit of breeze coming head on but besides a small chop it doesn’t do much harm. We make a short stop on a nice beach and have some cookies and juice.

From here we paddle on and stop around 12:00 at Watering Cove, a cute little hide away beach. After lunch (a sandwich and an awesome chocolate cake with chocolate frosting) we are picked up by “water taxi” and we ride to Bark Bay. Along the way we pass another seal colony where the seals either chill on rocks or play around in the sea.

Once dropped off at Bark Bay we start hiking along a fairly leveled (with some ups and downs) track carved into the side of the hill, following the shore line. The sea has an amazing green/blue color. There are ferns everywhere and they come in all shapes and sizes. On several ocassions we pass openings in trees which present us with stunning views of Tasman Sea and many hidden beaches. Along the track we also pass a cool hanging bridge. Many people hike several days on this track and do different parts on seakayaks or hiking. We see quite a few couples with little kids which we find very encouraging as we take it that having kids should not put stop to our traveling spirits. A real worry of ours.

After about 1 3/4 hr we arrive at Torrent Bay where we chill for 20 min before we are picked up by water taxi. Then 15min of a boat ride and we are pulled out of the water without getting of the boat, by a tractor. Once at the kayak base we clean up the van briefly and take showers in the near by camp site.

From Marahau we drive to Motueka where we refuel and also get drinking water at a gasoline station. Being nice is all one needs. It’s not that we can’t afford to buy water but by refilling our containers we are not encouraging the spread of plastic as much. We also stop at the end of Motueka for real fruit ice cream!!! at Toad Hall Organic Shop. They mix real fruit with frozen yoghurt and it is delicious! Katka goes for refill while I get nice cappuccino with peppermint-chocolate square. I also recharge my data plan and we book the ferry from Picton to Wellington for 14:25 tomorrow(NZD 193,-). All done on iPhone, the best device I ever owned! We decide to skip Kaikoura and the whale watching as many people report failure to see them and also the whales there are not breaching which is what we are really after. Next time. For now, we have seen so much beauty of south island anyway, that it’s time to explore the north one.

We drive on, Katka behind the wheel, while the sun sends the warm rays across many vineyards and fruit orchards. Those who drink wine would love it here. We decide to drive to Havelock (75km east from Nelson) and park there for the night because from there to Picton is Queen Charlotte’s scenic drive (Charlotte, did we miss something? ) and we would like to drive that tomorrow.

In Nelson we get some groceries at Woolworths and then start driving in directon of Picton. Right outside of Nelson, while overlooking the last rays of sun, we eat a quick dinner. Katka drives while I update the blog, download and back up photos. Amazing how great we utilize our time at times. We pass Havelock and turn right onto the Queen Charlotte’s Drive. We stop for the night at a lookout overlooking the town and bay below.

On November 24:

1429  Joan of Arc unsuccessfully besieged La Charité.

1663 map of Van Diemen’s Land, showing the parts discovered by Tasman.

 

1690  Charles Theodore Pachelbel, German composer, was born.

 

1806 William Webb Ellis, who is credited with the invention of Rugby, was born.

1815 Grace Darling, English heroine, was born.

1849  Frances Hodgson Burnett, British-born author, was born.

1864  Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec, French painter, was born.

1868 Scott Joplin, Ragtime Composer, was born.

1888  Dale Carnegie, American writer, was born.

1894 Herbert Sutcliffe, English cricketer, was born.

1897  Lucky Luciano, American gangster, was born.

1942 Billy Connolly, Scottish comedian, was born.

1944  Bev Bevan, English rock drummer (The Move, Electric Light Orchestra), was born.

1946  Penelope Jones Halsall (aka Caroline Courtney, Lydia Hitchcock, Melinda Wright, Annie Groves, Penny Jordan), English novelist, was born.

1955  Ian Botham, England test cricketer, was born.

1959 All hands were lost when the modern coastal freighter Holmglen foundered off the South Canterbury coast.

1961 Arundhati Roy, Indian writer, was born.

1969 The Apollo 12 command module splashes down safely in the Pacific Ocean, ending the second manned mission to the Moon.

1974 Donald Johanson and Tom Gray discovered the 40% complete Australopithecus afarensis skeleton, nicknamed “Lucy” after The Beatles song “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds“, in the Awash Valley of Ethiopia’s Afar Depression.

Sourced from NZ History Online & Wikipedia.

El primer europeo en pisar las islas, el holandés Abel Tasman, llegó en 1642. Tasman se limitó a pasear por la zona y descubrir todo lo descubrible, o sea, todo, ya que el que los maoríes lo llevasen pisando cinco o seis siglos no significaba gran cosa para el europeo medio. Sin embargo, el siguiente en llegar fue el británico James Cook en 1769 que, naturalmente, según las costumbre de la época, declaró la tierra propiedad de Su Majestad (1). Espero que le sirviera de consuelo cuando luego, haciendo honor a su apellido, acabó en el puchero.

Abel Tasman planificando sus vacaciones

En respuesta a la posterior llegada de franceses que, básicamente, trataron de hacer lo mismo que ellos, los ingleses firmaron con los maoríes en 1840 el tratado del Waitangi por el que le cedían la “kawanatanga” (soberanía) de sus tierras a la Reina a cambio de que ellos les reconociesen que lo suyo era suyo. Es de señalar lo bien que se lo montan los ingleses en estos temas, ya que hoy en día el Waitangi Day (6 de febrero) es la fiesta nacional de los maorís, en que celebran, por lo que yo entiendo, que los bretones se lo levantaron todo. Hablando en cifras, la población original maorí de unos 100000 individuos se había decrementado a unos 40000 en el 1900, mientras que los europeos (pakeha) se contaban alrededor de medio millón. El problema fue, al menos de acuerdo a los británicos, la falta de un jurista competente bilingüe, es decir, que hablase maorí e inglés. El contrato final debió ser como para enviarlo certificado al infierno a la atención de Mefistófeles y con un post-it que dijese “¡Aprente, aficionado!”. Parece que en lo único que ambos bandos estaban completamente de acuerdo era en que el tratado constaba de tres artículos. Por lo demás, donde unos dijeron ceder, querían decir compartir y donde dije digo digo Diego. Lo normal. A mediados del XIX llegaron más europeos en busca de tierras y, Waitangi o no, la guerra estalló alrededor del 1860. Los británicos sufrieron bajas considerables pero, armas de fuego por medio, acabaron fácilmente con los guerreros maorís y, como ya se veía venir, se quedaron con las tierras, estableciendo principalmente granjas y pastoreando ovejas. En el 1975 se instituyó el tribunal del Waintangi que arbitra disputas entre las iwi (tribus) maoríes y el gobierno, estableciendo compensaciones, caso de ser necesario, que suelen invertirse en servicios de salud y educación para las iwi.

Por Roberto Falcão

Wellington parece um pouco com Auckand, cheia de colinas - o centro é bem pequeno, mas com estilo. Visitei o museu Te Papa (‘nossa casa’, em maori) e uma exposição de fotos de natureza no centro cívico. Aproveitei também para tirar o visto para o Tahiti, na embaixada da França, que só me custou 18 dólares neo-zelandeses (US$ 9). Os dias estavam ensolarados, mas frios, temperaturas entre zero e dez graus.

De Welington parti no ferry (de 24 a 54 dólares neo-zelandeses, equivalentes a US$ 12 e US$ 27) das 9h da manhã para Picton, na ilha Sul. Consegui uma conexão direta com o ônibus para Nelson. Dormi nessa cidade de 50 mil habitantes, maior porto pesqueiro e madeireiro da ilha sul.

Na manhã seguinte parti às 7h15 da matina (ai que frio, muito cedo) para o parque nacional de Abel Tasman. Grandes extensões de florestas costeiras, um parque marinho, praias de areias douradas e cachoeiras fazem desse parque uma das atrações mais populares da ilha sul.

Para o Abel Tasman National Park fui de ônibus (23 dólares neo-zelandeses - US$ 11,50, ida e volta de Nelson).

Depois peguei uma lancha do serviço de Aqua Taxi. Ótima opção para combinar com a caminhada. Os preços do Aqua Taxi variam conforme o roteiro. É claro, no verão eles chegam a transportar centenas de passageiros por dia e no inverno fica tudo mais tranquilo (custa entre 19 e 40 dólares neo-zelandeses - de US$ 9,50 a US$ 20). As trilhas são muito bem mantidas e leves, vão costeando as praias, cachoeiras e florestas de samambaias gigantes, uma natureza intocada. No parque marinho você poderá ver focas, mas nada mais em especial.

Abel Tasman Aqua Taxis
Tel: 0800 278282, www.AquaTaxi.webnz.co.nz,
AquaTaxi@xtra.co.nz

Para visitar a ilha sul, escolha um dos passes de ônibus, Intercity, Magic ou Kiwi Experience, todos tem narração, como se fosse um tour, e paradas no caminho para ver algumas atrações! Paguei pelo passe do Intercity 140 dólares neo-zelandeses (US$ 70) pelo trecho Picton-Queenstown, cortando toda a costa oeste de ônibus.

Após visitarmos o parque de Abel Tasman, voltei para Nelson às 17h30.

When it comes to playing outside, those Kiwis punch well above their weight. They’ve done a brilliant job of turning their country into an open-air gym, and when the skiing season ends around October, there is what Kiwis call ‘tramping’.

In New Zealand anyone with limbs in reasonable working order can enjoy some of the world’s most spectacular scenery. So assuming you have a few days and some excess energy, which tramp is for you?

Nine routes are officially designated ‘Great Walks’ by the Department of Conservation (DOC). The tracks and huts are kept in better condition than those on other routes, and in peak periods booking systems allow hikers to reserve accommodation. DOC huts are an affordable and comfortable alternative to carrying a tent or paying serious money for a luxury lodge.

Tongariro Northern Circuit. 41km, 3-4 days, 3 DOC huts.

Is there anywhere on the planet quite like this amazing volcanic moonscape in the centre of the North Island? The Tongariro Crossing is regarded by many as the best one-day walk in the country, and in the high season you’ll share it with dozens of others who pour out of backpacker shuttle buses. They’re there for good reason. Barely a blade of grass grows along the track past Mt Tongariro and the pile of volcanic scoria that is Mt Ngauruhoe. Sulphurous smoke oozes out of cracks and the colours of the Red Crater, Blue Lake and Emerald Lakes are extraordinary.

Three or four days walking will take you away from the backpacker hordes, on a circuit past the active volcano Mt Ruapehu, and through areas of lovely forests and streams.

Where: Central North Island
Closest towns: Whakapapa Village or Turangi.

Lake Waikaremoana Track – 46km, 3-4 days, 5 DOC huts

Driving on unsealed roads to reach this remote lake, and remembering its name when asking directions, may be harder than doing the walk itself, an easy loop with only a few lumps to clamber up. But you’ll certainly feel you’ve got away from the crowds, and seen some of the most spectacular old growth forest on the North Island. It’s apparently a great fishing spot too, though I’m no expert there.

Where: Central North Island
Closest town: Wairoa

Queen Charlotte Track 71km, 3-5 days, 6 DOC campsites and a number of lodges.

The Queen Charlotte is not exactly a wilderness walk, since it passes through attractive farmland as well as forest, but it has the advantage of great flexibility if you don’t have the time or inclination to walk the whole route. Highlights are the great views of Queen Charlotte Sound on one side and Kenepuru Sound on the other.
Access is from Picton by ferry or water taxi, so day walks on the track are easily organised. By arrangement, water taxis will also take your gear to the following night’s lodge or campsite, so wussy trampers need only carry daypacks. The track can be walked year round, but is most popular in the summer.

Where: Northern tip of South Island – the Marlborough region

Closest town: Picton

Routeburn Track 32km, 2-3 days, 4 DOC huts.

The Routeburn can be done as a guided walk staying in commercial huts, with showers, food and wine available, but it is also well served with DOC huts. It’s a spectacular and relatively easy alpine trek (consequently very popular), and can be combined with two more days on the slightly tougher, less well-maintained and less busy Caples Track or Greenstone Track to make a loop walk.

Where: Mount Aspiring National Park, central South Island
Closest towns: Queenstown and the lovely village of Glenorchy on the end of Lake Wakatipu.

Kepler Track 60km, 3-4 days, 3 DOC huts.

The Kepler Track in Fiordland was opened to take some pressure off the very popular Milford and Routeburn Tracks. The track being relatively new is in excellent condition, and the alpine scenery is brilliant. The tramp begins with a solid 850metre climb from Te Anau to the Luxmore Hut, but after that the walking is comfortable, and the descent into the forest by Iris Burn Hut is particularly beautiful. We did it during a light snowfall and the effect was magical. Probably my favourite of the Great Walks.

Where: Fiordland, south of the South Island

Closest town: Te Anau. The route is a circuit beginning and ending in the town itself.

Abel Tasman Track 52km, 3 days, 4 DOC huts

Walking the coastal Abel Tasman Track is not too demanding, and the route offers beaches and a range of accommodation from camping to up-market lodges. If you want to combine a day of sea kayaking with a couple of days walking, this can be arranged. Another two days of (harder) walking will take you over the higher Inland Track to make a loop with the Abel Tasman.

The track can be walked year round, but is crowded during school holidays in January. Best times are probably February-May.

Where: Northern coast of South Island
Closest town: Nelson

Milford Track 53km 4 days No camping permitted. 3 DOC huts for independent walkers, and separate huts for guided groups.

Number one on many trampers’ list of New Zealand hikes is the famous Milford Track, though I confess it’s one Great Walk I’ve never done.  I’m sure it’s beautiful, and others speak highly of it, but I’ve been slightly deterred by its very popularity. Advance bookings are essential, which means no flexibility in case of bad weather, though guided tours with up-market huts are also available for those who want more creature comforts in the evenings.

Where: Fiordland South Island
Closest town: Te Anau.

NOTES:

Hikers using DOC huts need to bring their own food and sleeping bags, but the huts offer gas stoves and bunks. There are toilets and cold water, but generally no showers. Arrangements are pretty communal, but that can be a plus. You meet nice people, all in high spirits and excited about what they are doing.

Buy hut passes on-line (website address below) or at DOC visitor centres in towns before beginning your walk. Costs are different for each route, and are cheaper in the low season, but are between $12- $45NZ (about $10-$35) per person per night.

Safety and weather

The weather, particularly in the alpine areas, can turn nasty at any time of year. Good footwear and wet-weather gear are essential, and a bit of physical condition will help to make your tramp a pleasure rather than an ordeal.

When to walk

In the winter, the alpine routes (Tongariro, Routeburn, Kepler and Milford Tracks) can turn into serious mountaineering adventures, suitable only for very experienced and well-equipped parties. Best times to walk are October to May.

Days required

In good weather, fit trampers can do the walks in fewer days than those given above, but what’s the hurry?

Read:  Tramping in New Zealand Jim Dufresne, Lonely Planet Publications
Website: www.doc.govt.nz (search site for “Great Walks”) gives information on all walks and operates an accommodation booking service.

W koncu mam jak podzielic sie z Wami zdjeciami z Parku Narodowego Abel Tasman. Minelo juz sporo czasu. Park polozony jest tuz na wybrzezu tak, ze mozliwosc przejscia pewnych odcinkow uzalezniona jest od odplywu. W zwiazku z tym zmienilismy troche nasze plany i poszlismy na polnoc od Totaranui, co jest chyba mniej popularne. Nie widzielismy wiec teoretycznie najbardziej malowniczej czesci parku, ale nam sie i tak podobalo Po drodze nie obylo sie bez rewelacji w postaci zmiany kola i zastanawianiu sie czy aby benzyny nam starczy oraz czy zapasowe kolo wytrzyma droge

Finally I have chance to share some pictures from Abel Tasman National Park. It is gorgeous place…

Hi folks,

what is it with New Zealand? Does it exist without directions?  I dont think so!

Well, I am in the South Island now. In Westland and still the Northern part of the Southisland. Any questions?

Abel Tasman – I guess you already saw the pictures. It was obviously great. We had great weather and great luck with the weather (it started to rain when we arrived at your car after two days of hiking or tramping as the Kiwis say). The sun was shining, but is was not too hot. The sea was blue, the views amazing and we met nice people. With Wolfgang and other germans (they ARE everywhere like mushrooms) we sleep in the kitchen of our hut so we had it nice and warm. This is a good thing, because it is still spring here and not to warm during night (about 8 degrees). So that was great.

In Nelson we stayed at a couch with Justin and Kimberly and it was again great (have I ever mention that I LOVE CS???). Both are very funny and showed us around. Justin was even so eager to plan our whole Southisland trip with such a motivation, that it was even for me sometimes hard to cope with it So, we know where to go and we know what to do. Yeah! This rocks!

Eva, thanks for the tip with the hostel the Old Slaughterhouse! We had unfortunatly only one night there (they said they are booked out, but it turn out (of course the next night) that 2 guys didnt showed up). This hostel is definetly one of the best in New Zealand. You have to climed 10 mins. to get to it and David brings the backpacks with a quad up there. And then you arrive: Look over the sea, nobody there, living room, kitchen books (Hey, Eva – I have a new Jilly cooper book! Thats she, isnt she?)… AMAZING! And nobody was there! I read, watched the sea, did nothing. That is the place to stay for a couple of days. We didnt have the time, but if we… *seufz*. Well, we went there also for a amazing walk along a old railway with old wagons and tunnels – that was fun. I will load up pics…

We had to leave this wonderful place because we booked tickets for the Tranz Alpine Senic Train trip to Christchurch. So we drove to Greymouth and got on the train which leads through the Alps in NZ from west to east coast! We past amazing still snow coverd mountains, high rivers on viadukts, tunnel after tunnel … Wow! That was really worth the money. Stupid that I forgot my second battery for my camera… good, that Julia was with me

We surfed again in CHCH with Julia form Taiwan – a nice girl (lady). CHCH is actually a really nice city with the garden and old houses (relativly of course). I am really looking forward to that again. And hopefully we meet Julia again.

We also went to the hospital there… It was a reall emergency… I mean:  we are two girls!!!

So today we got back on the train – again luck with the weather and are now in this funny town named something but not Hokaido! Julia bought me a Jade Stone with my money (buying it itself means bad luck) and I really should stop shopping…

Tomorrow… glaciers… down south….

Abel Tasman est le nom de l’explorateur néerlandais qui découvrit la NZ en 1642.

Plusieurs lieux portent son nom, à commencer par la Tasmanie qu’il découvrit la même année que la NZ.

Il y a également la mer de Tasman située entre l’Australie et la Nouvelle-Zélande et le “Tasmantis” qui est le nom donné à l’immense continent sur lequel se trouve la Nouvelle-Zélande actuelle. Cette dernière n’est qu’une minuscule partie émergée de ce continent noyé, que les cartes de fonds marins représentent déployé de la Nouvelle-Calédonie (au Nord) à Campbelle Island (au Sud).

Hey foolios,

Alright finally going to finish up blogging about my break this time. Following a night back in Wesport, we ventured to the Nelson region, “the NZ sunshine capital”. Well, it didn’t live up to its name when we got there. Torrential rain was the name of the game as we set out on the Abel Tasman Track that is characterized by turquoise bays meeting golden sand beaches and verdant green forests. It was gorgeous in spite of the rain, especially when we made it to a secluded bay and all that we could hear were the waves lapping upon the beach and the patter of rain on the sand. After an equally drenching walk back to the car, we managed to throw on some dry clothes before heading over to Nelson for the night.

Even though its the capital of the region, I can’t imagine the “city” having more than 10,000 residents but it certainly was endearing. After chilling at a stellar backpackers, Tasman Bay Backpackers, we grabbed somegrub at a pub in town before heading to the cinema to check out “District 9″.

Gonna chat about the movie for a bit. In summary, it was awesome. Directed by a newcomer Neill Blomkamp and produced by Peter Jackson,it made me happy they still make movies. The story wasn’t totally original (taken mostly from Blomkamps short film “Aliens in Joburg”) but it was a taut sci-fli flick with some pretty powerful social commentary. My only qualms with it would that Neill seems to use the “everything but the kitchen sink” approach in terms of shooting styles plus there are some gaping holes in the story and how it is told that just need to be ignored to enjoy the film. Even with this, this film is a triumph of shooting a sci-fi/action movie on a budget (putting sand in the eye of Universal execs for canning the “Halo” movie) and Neill found a fantastic actor who plays the protagonist who is endearing to the audience in some instances and strange/despicable in others. If you haven’t seen it, check it out…it will certainly get you talking.

We left the next day for the Queen Charlotte Track, stopping in Havelock to try to get a water taxi to pick us up later that day so we didn’t have to walk back the same route only to be stopped by a boat captain “You guys are the one’s filming salmon right?”

Um maybe…I guess we looked like film makers? We might have been able to snag a free ride (since it would have ended up costing us 300 bucks) but alas common sense got the best of us. We hit the track for about five hours (complete with gorgeous clear and sunny day plus a massive bull standing in the middle of the track) then went to Picton and stayed at a money hostel called The Villa (complete with hot tub filled with rubber duckies, golden lab, calvin and hobbes comics, bowflex, free apple crumble and a treehouse named after me…standard). There we met an American girl, Colleen, who was taking a sabbatical and on her last bit of cash as well as an awesome German dude, Michael, who also was on a sabbatical from working in a hospital near Stuttgart. We chatted with them for an hour or so before heading into town to get a few beers (somehow Michael got asked about his opinion of Nazism and Germany’s 20th century history, could have been super awkward but he was great about discussing his thoughts with us). Capped off a good day by playing cards with those two plus two others Germans and teaching them how to play A**hole, which we got handily beat at.

For our last day on the island we set off down the east coast towards Christchurch and I can tell you that I have never driven a more beautiful stretch of land than that. A rocky coast meeting brilliant blue water on our left with tall cliffs and mountains lining the right made for quite a drive. We made a stop at the beachy town of Kaikoura and drove out to the peninsula where we ended up just walking along the rocky coast since it was low tide, chatting it up with the sunbathing seals and marvelling at the hidden coves.

Since we were ahead of schedule, we decided to take the long way to Christchurch and stop at Hanmer Springs up in the mountains north of the city for a long soak in the 100 degree natural sulphuric pools. GREAT decision except they almost ruined my silver ring, whoops.

We capped off the night at an uber authentic Japanese/Korean restaurant (no english on the menus), enjoying a microbrew at a hole in the wall bar and settling into the Jailhouse for the final night(yes the hostel was a jail, only decommissioned five years ago and was by far the sweetest hostel I’ve ever crashed in).

And so ended an awesome adventure that I praised the Lord everyday for allowing me to be on it. I just need to make sure the praises never stop.

Profitant des vacances de mi-semestre, je suis parti la semaine dernière explorer la moitié nord de l’Île du Sud, avec deux amis. 400 photos plus tard, retour sur ce superbe voyage…

Jour 1 : Lundi 24 août

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Réveil à 6h pour aller prendre le bus reliant Christchurch à Greymouth, soit la côte Est à la côté Ouest. Il n’y à qu’une seule route permettant de traverser ainsi les Alpes du Sud : la State Highway 73, que j’avais déjà emprunté pour aller dans l’Otehake Valley. Comme 97% des “autoroutes” néo-zélandaises, elle ne comporte qu’une seule voie dans chaque sens, ce qui est assez révélateur de la faible intensité du traffic routier ici – et rend d’autant plus agréable la traversée de paysages préservés de la bétonisation…

Maison traditionnelle à Greymouth

Nous arrivons à Greymouth en fin de matinée, sous un ciel gris typique de la West Coast (parfois surnommée Wet Coast, en raison de ses importantes précipitations !). “Forte” de ses 10 000 habitants, Greymouth est la plus grande ville de la région. Pour être franc, elle est loin d’être jolie – comme beaucoup de ville néo-zélandaises d’ailleurs. Ses maisons usées, aux jardins couverts de feraille et de vieilles voitures délabrées, son centre-ville tout juste reconnaissable à trois-quatre rues commerçantes, son ambiance industrielle lui donnent des airs de ville fantôme. Mais cela lui donne en même temps un certain charme, particulièrement au yeux du visiteur français en quête d’authenticité et d’inconnu…

Ville portuaire, Greymouth a aussi une plage… de galets. Nous y avons passé une bonne partie de l’après-midi, souvent en silence, à contempler la mer de Tasmanie, ses vagues déchaînées, ses nuances grises… Ce genre de spectacle sans fin, où les va-et-viens de l’océan, incessant et fascinant, vous hypnotisent, vous paralysent. Ce genre de spectacle idéal pour se vider l’esprit en début de vacances…

Jour 2 : Mardi 25 août

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Direction la gare de Greymouth pour y louer une voiture pour la semaine. Après avoir mis en concurrence des compagnies comme Budget et Avis pour constater qu’elles proposent les mêmes prix – et les mêmes surtaxes journalières pour les conducteurs de moins de 25 ans -, nous tombons sur notre sauveur, Apex Car Rentals, qui ne discrimine pas les jeunes conduteurs et nous offre en fin de compte un prix moitié moins élevé qu’ailleurs (330$ pour six jours). Allelujah!

Notre road-trip commence donc officiellement sur les routes de la West Coast, avec sur votre gauche la mer de Tasmanie et sur votre droite les impressionnantes “native forests”, hautes en couleurs et en exotisme. La pluie est au rendez-vous, jusqu’à Punakaiki, où nous nous arrêtons pour admirer l’attraction de la région : les Pancake Rocks. Formés par l’érosion, ces rochers sont composés de différentes couches alternant calcaire et sédiments marins et végétaux, d’où leur apparence de piles de crêpes… Une balade de 15 minutes est aménagée pour les visiteurs à travers le site, où l’on peut aussi s’attarder devant des geysers maritimes, idéalement à marée haute.

Punakaiki Pancake Rocks

Après un arrêt sur le Truman Track, nous remontons jusqu’à Westport, la deuxième ville de la West Coast (3 900 habitants), pour y passer la nuit. Organisée le long d’une unique rue commerçante, Westport est tout aussi déserte que lors du passage d’Antoine de Maximy, en début d’année. Comme lui, nous avons le droit à une énorme averse à notre sortie du pub : vêtements entièrement trempés en moins de deux minutes, et chaussures qui mettront plus de deux jours à sécher – le parfait souvenir de la Wet Coast !

Jour 3 : Mercredi 26 août

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Direction le nord de l’île, en traversant des routes splendides et en fêtant le retour du soleil ! Nous arrivons dans le Tasman, une région dotée de trois parcs nationaux, dont le petit mais célèbre Abel Tasman National Park, objet principal de notre visite sur ces terres. Après avoir réservé trois lits – ou plutôt matelas – dans un refuge de ce même Park à l’office du tourisme de Motuheka, nous longeons la côte pour rejoindre Kaiteriteri, vanté par le guide Lonely Planet pour ses “magnifiques plages dorées” où “l’on se sent plus à Nouméa qu’en Nouvelle-Zélande”… Il faut bien avouer que le contraste avec la West Coast est assez saisissant : adieu galets et ciel gris, bonjour plage et ciel bleu !

Sur la plage de Kaiteriteri

Malgré les sandflies, la température très (trop) fraîche de l’eau et le peu d’animation dans la station, nous décidons de passer la nuit dans un backpacker à deux pas de la plage de Kaiteriteri, plutôt que de retourner explorer les pubs de Motuheka. De même qu’à Westport, l’auberge de jeunesse est quasiment vide à cette période de l’année, ce qui fait que nous avons une nouvelle fois un dorm rien que pour nous… Ca tombe bien, demain je me réveille tôt.

Jour 4 : Jeudi 27 août

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Laissant les autres finir leur nuit, je me réveille à 6h30 pour assister à mon premier lever de soleil kiwi. La plage n’étant pas le spot idéal pour cela, petit footing forcé jusqu’en haut de la pointe, puis descente un peu acrobatique le long des arbres, pour me retrouver sur des rochers repérés la veille, au milieu d’une colonie d’oiseaux, face à la mer. Encore un de ces rendez-vous merveilleux avec la nature ; je le photographie comme je peux, avant de rentabiliser mon lever matinal en traînant sur la plage, magnifiée par les premiers rayons du jour…

Anchorage, Abel Tasman National Park

Après cette savoureuse mise en bouche, nous rejoignons Marahau dans la matinée, pour y laisser notre voiture et commencer une randonnée de deux jours sur le Coast Track de l’Abel Tasman National Park. Nous savons que nous ne prenons pas un grand risque : cette rando est l’une des plus populaires de Nouvelle-Zélande et elle figure logiquement parmi les Great Walks gérés par le Department of Conservation, soit la garantie d’un parcours splendide, relativement facile et très bien indiqué.

Effectivement, nous ne sommes pas déçus : les criques s’enchaînent, le chemin nous mène d’un cours d’eau à un autre, au beau milieu d’une jungle de fougères et de palmiers, aussi bien sur les hauteurs pour des lookouts de rêve que sur les plages pour des séances “trempette” dans une eau limpide… Les photos devraient parler d’elles-même, but what a great walk!

Nous passons la nuit à Anchorage Hutt, le refuge que nous avons réservé la veille et qui est situé juste au bord de la plage en photo ci-dessus… Sweet as.

Jour 5 : Vendredi 28 août

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Nouveau réveil à l’aube, pour tous les trois cette fois-ci. Après l’effort (lever à 6h15 et 30 minutes de marche en montée), le réconfort (lever de soleil au-dessus de Te Pukatea Bay). Nous rentrons par le même chemin qu’à l’aller, mais plusieurs facteurs contribuent à rendre le retour encore plus agréable : le calme, la lumière douce et la fraîcheur du matin, l’absence de pluie, et la perspective d’un énorme déjeuner au McDo de Motuheka à l’arrivée – après quatre heures d’effort, 2 000 calories de réconfort…

Fougères...

C’est le ventre plein  - et, me concernant, les pieds endoloris par des sandales quand même inadaptées à ce genre de balade – que nous reprenons alors la route, destination Nelson, de l’autre côté de la baie de Tasman. N’en déplaise à notre Nelson “Can you hear me?” Monfort national, la ville tient son nom de l’Amiral Horatio Nelson, vainqueur des flottes française et espagnole à Trafalgar en 1805 – la rue principale de la ville s’appelle d’ailleurs Trafalgar Street. Réputée pour avoir le climat le plus ensoleillé de Nouvelle-Zélande, Nelson est en tout cas l’une des villes les plus sympathiques du pays, avec de jolies maisons (à l’image de notre génial backpacker), une vie artistique très active et une vue panoramique sur Tasman Bay. Si vous cherchez une petite ville où passer une paisible retraite…

Jour 6 : Samedi 29 août

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N’ayant pas encore cotisé suffisamment pour notre retraite, nous quittons la région de Nelson pour découvrir le Marlborough voisin, réputé pour son climat tout aussi agréable, son Sauvignon blanc et ses Marlborough Sounds. Ces derniers correspondent aux Abers bretons ou aux Rias galiciennes : ce sont des vallées fluviales qui ont été envahies par la mer et qui forment par conséquent un parcours sinueux entre terre et mer. Nous pouvons les admirer particulièrement sur le Queen Charlotte Drive, une route jolie mais tortueuse entre Havelock et Picton.

Marlborough Sounds

Après une pause fish’n'chips à Picton, port de départ des ferries ralliant Wellington sur l’Île du Nord, nous mettons le cap sur Blenheim, principale ville de la région (30 000 habitants). La route qui nous y mène étant quasi intégralement bordée de vignobles, nous nous arrêtons dans un domaine – tenu par le Français Georges Michel, sic – pour une séance de dégustation… et quelques petites emplettes ! Toujours au rayon des vins, notre backpacker à Blenheim s’appelle le Grape Vine et semble accueillir de nombreux travailleurs venus faire les vendanges dans la région.

Jour 7 : Dimanche 30 août

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Notre dernière journée commence par un nouveau petit-déjeuner d’hiver… en terrasse – le quatrième de la semaine, et le sixième en extérieur ! Parés pour une journée de route nous ramenant à Christchurch, nous abandonnons alors la douceur du Marlborough pour le climat plus maussade du Canterbury. Notre route longe la côte Est quasiment en permanence, ce qui nous permet de chercher du regard les nombreuses otaries à fourrure qui en squattent les plages – et les moins nombreux surfeurs qui bravent le froid. Sur notre droite, les collines sont peuplées de troupeaux de vaches et de moutons, formant un décor me rappelant parfois le Pays de Galles.

Kaikoura Peninsula

La comparaison celtique s’arrête dès que l’on s’approche de Kaikoura, car à ce niveau les collines deviennent de vraies montagnes, aux sommets enneigés perdus dans les nuages. Nous nous arrêtons sur la péninsule de Kaikoura pour y picniquer et nous y promener. Le vent est tellement fort que nous restons dans la voiture pour déjeuner, avec des ours de mer en vis-à-vis et des mouettes autour de nous, cherchant un abri pour ne pas se faire emporter par les rafales.

Remis de notre balade digestive et vivifiante, nous remontons finalement à bord de Sunny (le nom de notre Nissan, pas toujours très approprié d’ailleurs). Arrivés à Christchurch, nous nous y offrirons un très bon repas au restaurant, avec du Canterbury lamb et du Lemon Cheesecake au menu… Un régal. A l’image de cette semaine de voyage !

7h45, sur la plage de Kaiteriteri

→ Last but not least: LES PHOTOS !!! Rendez-vous sur mon second compte Flickr pour consulter le diaporama, en cliquant ici. N’hésitez pas à aller sur “Afficher les infos” ou sur “Options” pour un plus grand confort de lecture. Surtout, enjoy!

Today for our regular weekly social studies get together, we looked at the Dutch explorer, Abel Tasman.  

As the kids cut out information to paste in their Australia Notebook I had prepared earlier, I read an account through Abel Tasmans eyes on his experience in discovering ‘Van Diemens Land’ cleverly written by Adnil Press.

“We did not see any of the natives, but we could hear their voices in the distance. We could also hear strange noises, as though gongs were being beaten. We were astonished at the size of the trees, many of which grew to a height of 60 feet (18 metres) or more before there were any branches. My men were terrified when they saw in two of the tree trunks notches fully 5 feet (1 1/2 metres) apart. They thought that people who used such steps must surely be giants. Then, we made an even more terrifying discovery. On the ground we saw the tracks of an animal, something like the marks made by the claws of a tiger! My men were so alarmed that we returned to the ships without delay.” 

I printed off a picture of a tall gum tree to show the kids some of the trees that Tasman would of seen. Tasmania not only has some of the tallest trees in the world but it has the tallest hardwood tree (picture to your left) in the world at a mighty 101 metres high and 405cm in diameter (click on picture for more information). Absolutely amazing – God’s beauty and awesomeness is incredible.

 I explored a little further about the tracks that Tasman would of seen – possibly the tracks of a Tasmania Tiger.  I showed the difference between a tigers tracks and those of a Tasmanian Tiger and how the Dutch could of believed it was a tiger (not that they would of seen too many tiger tracks mind you..?)

The now unfortunately extinct Tasmanian Tiger. Click on picture to find out more about this amazing marsupial.

 As the kids did their notebooks I read a very special book to them about a young girls experience in seeing the last known Thycaline to be seen.  The artwork is exceptional in this very moving picture book and I highly recommend it in your home library.

After our social studies, we went home and watched an interesting library video – End of Extinction: cloning of the Tasmanian Tiger, which the boys really enjoyed. We love our documentaries, even more so when it adds a dimension to what we have been learning.

I must say, I really enjoyed my time in the Northern section of the South Island. It was absolutely POURING when I arrived in Picton, but the next day, the sun came out and I went on an excellent hike with some people from my hostel, which gave us gorgeous views of the Queen Charlotte Sound. We even got to see some seals playing down at the bottom of the cliff at the end of the track. It turned out to be a pretty spectacular day spent with great company.

Nelson was also quite impressive. The sunniest place in New Zealand didn’t disappoint, and I did have wonderful weather both days there. On the second day, I made it to Abel Tasman National Park, which was definitely a highlight of my trip so far! It was absolutely beautiful there. I did a trip that included a water taxi to Bark Bay, then an 8 km walk to Torrent Bay, where the kayaks met us, and then we kayaked back to Marahau, where we started our trip. One of the coolest parts was seeing a DOLPHIN swimming right next to the water taxi! It was really surprising, and really awesome. The walk, which was a section of the Abel Tasman coastal track, was lovely, but the kayaking was really SPECTATULAR! I haven’t kayaked in a while, so I think that added to my enjoyment a little.  I also had a great kayak partner from Vancouver, B.C. The water was calm and the sky was blue, and it turned out to be what could be a called a perfect day. Now I’m in Franz Josef (the bus ride here was absolutely beautiful–forest and ocean the whole way!), where I’m going to do a glacier walk tomorrow. After that it’s on to Queenstown!

The Snout in Picton

Our friend in Abel Tasman!

The benefits of low tourist season

Yesterday we went to visit the Abel Tasman park at the northern part of the Southern Island. We did a half day kayaking and a half day of walking through the park. It was a really nice trip and during the kayaking trip we played with baby seals near the Tonga Island, which is in the marine reserve park. It was a lovely day with a nice sunny day!!!!!

But that night we slept near the place we’re we would leave and around 21h I suddenly feel that our campervan is shaking. I thought somebody was shaking our van and looked but I couldn’t see nobody. We we’re in the middle of nowhere, on the edge of a national park, a bit scary :-0 After 20 minutes the same happened and Isa and I we’re getting a bit nervous about it…Heart rates went up quite The next day we find out that there was an earthquake in the south of the island (8.2 on the scale of richter!!!!) and they we’re fearing Tsunamis!!!! But until now nothing happened… Still scary because they say the worst still needs to come.. To be continued!!!

This night we slept at Warefell Beach which is one of the DOC camping available at a very low price. We arrived at night so in the morning we wake up with a beautiful long beach with nobody to see… Incredible!!!

We drove to Kaikoura today which is by now my most loved city so far… You have the Alpes as background scenery (at only 30 min drive from the centre) and you see everywhere seals (besides the roads,  waterfalls, …) and they have a lot of big mammals (sperm whale, dusky dolphines, the big albatross, millions of seals!!!! This is because at 500 metres from the shore the ocean takes a dive of 1200 metres and this brings in a lot of plakton and fishes which is good food for the big mammals.

Today I did the swim with the dolphins and we’ve seen a school of 400 dusky dolphins and we’ve played with them. Really funny animals!!!! Great experience although I have to admit that I was enormous sea sick because of the high waves…. Still not 100 ok while writing this blog…

Hola, al final hemos llegado a la isla sur y no hace tanto frio como pensabamos… Esta manana hemos hecho un crucero por los Marlborough Sounds.. En una palabra: impresionante!!!

Ahora estamos en Abel Tasman National Park y manana iremos a descubrirlo: andando, con kayak y en barquito…

To be continued

The short, sharp grunt up Grampian Hill is worth it for the views

I’m just back from a great weekend away…. despite the weather. All started well enough and as we flew over a millpond-like Cook Straight we even dared to believe the forecast might be wrong. Friday afternoon in Nelson was cold but fine, so I took myself off for a fun grunt up Grampian Hill and was rewarded with some fine views and the thrill of running a new trail.

...and I didn't pack a head torch.... back just in time at the end of a 42km run on Abel Tasman Coast Track.

Saturday started with an early alarm call so we could get online and enter the Kepler Challenge – the final leg of 7in7 being this iconic mountain race. Success – we all got in! Then we headed west into freezing rain cloud and the usually sunny Abel Tasman National Park.  A five hour run out beyond Torrent Bay and back seemed a good way to keep warm – any thoughts of walking chunks were dispelled by the cold, insistent rain that never let up all afternoon. That night we huddled around the heater in our cabin, had a great meal washed down with a couple of glasses of wine and were sound asleep by 9pm!

Mates make running more fun.... with Karen at end of Saturday's wet run on the ATCC

Sunday was more of the same – bad weather that is. As for running? Nah, instead we headed into Motueka for a great brunch, checked out a winery and pottery and then set off back to Blenheim and an appointment with the DVD player, a log fire and a fine home-cooked pizza. Heaven! Kind of made up for that first thing this morning though with a great 2+ hour run in the Wither Hills, immediately behind Karen’s house – what a playground to have on your doorstep! So, all in all, a very balanced long weekend!

Day 65

We woke up early in Wellington and boarded the ferry to cross over to the South Island. The weather was bad, but the ferry ride was pretty smooth. When we arrived on the South Island, our tour company picked us up and we drove pretty much straight through to Nelson, which is our jumping  off point for the Abel Tasman National Park. We spent most of the night packing and getting ready to leave.  Since we were going to spend the next two days walking through the park and camping, we had to leave a bunch of our stuff at the hostel.

Day 66

We took a bus to the park entrance, which was about an hour away from Nelson.  It was pretty cold in the morning, but there wasn’t a cloud in the sky, so we really couldn’t have asked for better weather.

We had a 4+ hour walk to our campsite at Anchorage Bay. Along the way, we really got to see some of the most beautiful scenery we’d seen yet:

The temperature started to warm-up as the day went on, which was definitely welcome. Luckily, we took the advice of everyone we talked to and dressed in layers. Here are a few more pictures:

In the previous post, I talked a little bit about the possums in New Zealand and how they are considered pests. These traps were all over the track to catch them.

We arrived at our campsite at Anchorage Bay around 3PM. At first, we weren’t sure how we were going to spend all of our down time. However, once the sun went down, there was really nothing left to do accept go to bed (it was really cold). We were staying the night in one of the cabins that they have in the park, which was really nothing more than two platforms where six people could sleep across with their sleeping bags.

Well, let's just say rules are made to be broken.

Day 66

Who needs coffee? Just take a stroll through this on a winter's morn.

We woke up from our campsite around 7AM. To continue our  hike. Today, we were going to do about 5 hours to Onetahuti Bay, where our water taxi was going to pick us up and take us back to Nelson.  Because the Abel Tasman Coastal Track runs along the *duh* coast, for certain parts of it there is actually a high tide and a low tide track. However, the high tide track is significantly longer. Since we weren’t sure if we would have enought time, this meant that we had to make sure we were at the low tide crossing at the right time (plus or minus two hours of low tide). That meant we got to take a very refreshing (i.e. cucking fold) walk through a few estuarial streams left by the tide that morning.

After drying our feet and getting our shoes back on, we were off again to some more really spectacular scenery. I’ll try to let the pictures speak for themselves:

We got two treats aboard the boat back to Nelson. First was a seal colony that lives on one of the islands along the coast. Second was a dolphin that swam up next to our boat and followed us for a little while:

We arrived back in Nelson that night tired, but definitely satisfied with our trip into the park. This was definitely the highlight of NZ so far for me, and probably shortlisted for Top 5 experiences on the whole trip around the world.

No. 12
Title : “Out on a Limb”
(includes Miniature Easel)
NZ Contemporary Artist : Donna Steel
Medium : Acrylic on Box Canvas
Size : 130mm x 180mm

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