The Alcazar. An Islamic palace in the heart of Sevilla. And students get in free!

Sarah and I went there today and spent about two hours exploring it. Now, one must realize that when I say palace I do not mean “castle”. The Alcazar is not a castle. But it is a palace. I believe they have two very distinct meanings. A palace is any type of building where the royalty live. A castle is a specific type of building.

Anyways, we wandered around and enjoyed the gorgeous views. It was a lovely day – sunny and only a bit chilly. We walked through the entire property. We even went into the maze though I don’t think we completed it, somehow we found ourselves back at the entrance so we just went out that way. Probably a good idea. I’m not good at mazes.

After the Alcazar we had some lunch and ice cream (yum). I bought a present for my sister. 1 euro. Don’t think she reads this. Well, if she does the cat’s out of the bag now. Might as well tell you what I bought. A dog! It was a one euro dog. I know you’ve always wanted a dog Kaitlin so there ya go. I’ll bring her back with me.

There is quite a difference between Seville the capital of Andalucia, and Granada. The sight of Santa Justa train station itself with its many platforms, shops and extra long elevated elevators illustrates a more developed side of Andalucia as compared to the isolated Granada station.

Day 3: Seville – Cathedral & La Giralda, Alcazar, Barrio de Santa Cruz, Rio Guadalquivir, Flamenco

Seville’s most famous landmark, the Cathedral and La Giralda stand tall in the centre of the city. The Cathedral of Seville was built over the main Almohad mosque in the 9th century and is the largest cathedral in the world. What still remains of the mosque is the minaret known today as the Giralda, a tower as high as 96m with a belltop. The bell tower can be reached by climbing up 35 ramps. Ramps instead of steps were built so that the muezzin responsible for calling the prayer in the olden days could ride all the way up on a horse. For me, the highlight of the Cathedral is the view from the top of the minaret – a climb that is worth making.

Seville Cathedral and La Giralda

Gothic architecture of the Cathedral                statues on the arch of the Cathedral

soaring columns in the interor of the Cathedral

    1 of 35 ramps to climb up the minaret           arriving at the 2nd last ramp to the top

view midway of the climb, of the Cathedral pinnacles and Orange Tree Courtyard

the Giralda belltower of 25 bells

splendid view of Barrio de Santa Cruz and the rest of Seville from the belltower

Just a few steps away from the Giralda across Plaza del Triunfo, is the Alcazar. The Alcazar in Seville can be considered as a smaller scale of Granada’s Alhambra (would probably have been a better idea for us to visit the Alcazar before the Alhambra). Originally built as a fort, this fortress palace exhibits one of the finest Moorish architecture in the region.

exterior facade of Palacio de Don Pedro

Islamic carvings above glazed tiles

in awe of the multi-colured arches, high walls, and dizzying effect of the dome ceiling at Salon de Embajadores (Hall of Ambassadors or Throne Room)

Patio de las Munecas (Patio of the Dolls) – the palace’s private quarters

Patio de las Doncellas (Patio of the Maidens) – the heart of the palace surrounded by lobe shaped arches

(left) Mercury’s Pond (dedicated to the god Mercury) used originally to irrigate the gardens;                (right) Grotto Gallery, a vantage point overlookng the palace’s gardens

Outside the Alcazar, one can choose to take a horse and carriage ride for sightseeing around the city of Seville.

line-up of horses and carriages at Plaza Triunfo

tourists riding on a horse carriage for a Seville experience

After a late tapas lunch, we head towards Barrio de Santa Cruz situated north east of the Alcazar. This old Jewish quarter is made up of narrow lanes twisting and turning around squares decorated with orange trees. We make our way to Plaza de Dona Elvira, the barrio’s prettiest square with benches covered in colourful tiles under the shade of orange trees. From this square, explore the street Gloria and the lanes perpendicular to this street. Take a stroll through Calle Pimienta (Pepper Street) said to be named after a Jewish spice merchant discovered a pepper tree on this street. Calle Pimienta joins Callejon de Agua, a tree-shaded street that runs along the walls of the gardens of Alcazar. We walk along Callejon de Agua in the north east direction, and eventually come to Plaza de Santa Cruz, another famous square where a wrought-iron cross stands in the middle of the square. It is this central cross that the barrio is named after.

Plaza de Dona Elvira

narrow Calle Pimienta                                                     shady Callejon de Agua

the cross at Plaza de Santa Cruz

As dark falls, we decide to head towards Rio Guadalquivir for a view of the other side of the river bank where the Triana neighbourhood resides. We pass Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold), a 13th century watch tower and walk across the bridge Puente de San Telmo. From here we have view of the brightly lit Puente de Isabel II, also known as the Triana Bridge.

passing by the main post office at Avenida de La Constitucion

lamppost by the river bank

moonlit Torre del Oro

Puente de Isabel II stretching across the river

We end the night by watching a flamenco performance held at Tablao El Arenal. Flamenco originated from the Gypsies and has grown to be an important part of Spanish culture. Traditionally the flamenco is performed by a singer, guitarist and a solo dancer, with the music accompanied by the clapping of the hands. The flamenco dance today has evolved with the influence of a mix of other dances which can often turn out to be quite a lively group performance. At Tablao El Arenal, the performance was made up of a series of solo dances with a group of guitarists and singers, followed by a group dance at the end. The show is targetted for tourists and is more of an entertaining performance rather than a traditional one.

flamenco finale performance at Tablao El Arenal

Seville attractions map

Au lendemain des incidents survenus à la suite du match Egypte-Algérie, les Marseillais découvrent les dégâts infligés à la bibliothèque de l’Alcazar, au Mac Donald’s de la Porte d’Aix ou encore aux bateaux à quai au Vieux-Port.

In My Opinion, One of the best Disco/Dance/Pop troups to have ever graced the planet!

Freakin’ amazing track!!

Alcazar – Stay The Night

Alcazar hade konsert på Färjan den 1 November. Jag gav dem mitt visitkort och jag förmedlade “det glada budskapet”…

Jag gillade outfiten!

Andreas in action.

Alcazar sjunger väldigt bra!

Jag hade bjudit in folk till min Blogg och Facebook-fest på Färjan, den 1 November. Många hade anmält sitt intresse. Men få dök upp! En del fick förhinder och en del blev sjuka. Nåväl, vi som var där på Färjan, hade väldigt kul! Vi käkade tillsammans, helstekt fläskytterfile med två olika goda såser. Det är alltid “ett säkert kort”! Vi lyssnade på skönsång i pianobaren där Åsa lejonclou sjöng. Det var såå trivsamt som vanligt. Åsa har en klockren röst. Jag blir lika faschinerad varje gång när jag lyssnar på henne. Det är där “Livet finns”, som en man uttryckte sig! Där Åsa spelar menade han och jag höll med. Vi önskade sånger. Vi drog vidare till Fun Club, karaoken, där jag sjöng gospel. I Club 7 pratade jag med en Pastor som redan kom fram till mej på Fun Club. Hon uppmuntrade mej starkt. Pastor Ewa sa att hon hade bett för mej, enda sedan hon såg mej på Färjan, säsong 1. Hon värdesätter mitt arbete på båtarna. Jag blev så glad! Så vi hade ett fint samtal mitt i karaoken. Hon sjöng också. Mitt sällskap och jag tog en massa foton..Vi pratade med många. Det blev en mycket lyckad träff. Sedan gick jag runt och coachade och predikade igen…Folk ville ha autografer och ta foton i massor!!! De gillar mej, som jag gillar dem! Jag blir mest glad av fina samtal med människor! Alcazar hade en fin konsert på Fun Club. Jag hade en bra plats, så jag fotade dem.Vidare gav jag mitt visitkort till dem och fick förmedla mitt kristna budskap. Haddock och Blender spelade. De är kanoners! Vi alla hade en fantastisk kryssning, enda tills vi var i Stockholm igen. Så ni som inte kunde komma, missade MYCKET!!!!

-Men ni som kom, TACK till ER! Ni är kanon!

Axel, Christer och Jag i Pianobaren.

Skönsjungande Åsa Lejonclou, min fina vän.

Axel och Jag.

Jag sjöng gospel i karaoken.

Pastor Ewa uppmuntrade mej! -Tack Ewa!

En fin familj som var mina fans!

Mina fans och Jag.

“I was was lost but now I am found”….

En härlig familj!

Den söta pojken tog mej i hand och sa:-”Ha en trevlig kväll”! Det var så gulligt!

I Fun Club med fans.

I Färjans nattliv.

Min Facebook-vän Axel och Jag.

Alcazar i farten.

Jag skrev min bloggadress och en autograf!

Jag utropade:-”Hallelujamoments, I love my life”! Christer var med..

Girlpower!

Trevliga tjejer!

September 10th

Time for another day trip, so we jumped on the AVE high-speed train for a thirty-minute trip up to Segovia.

Now I’d heard that the AVE station was some way out of town and that most people took the connecting bus. Me, however, being stubborn and and an idiot, wondered if walking might not be an option, seeing as how buses in foreign parts are so difficult to use: how do you pay? Do you get in at the front and exit at the back? How will you know when you’ve got to a place you’ve never seen before?

The moment we exited the train station it became immediately obvious that the walking strategy was a non-starter : outside there lay absolutely nothing except scorched pale golden treeless ground for as far as they eye could see. No houses, no paths, nowt, and no indication of the direction in which the town lay.

After a brief vision of some vultures pecking at a small pile of bones in the middle of a desert, we got on the bus with all the other tourists and alighted half an hour later at the edge of Segovia, in front of the amazing sight of the enormous aquaduct that dominates the landscape.

This thing is really jaw-dropping in scale, antiquity and magnificence, even for a seasoned world adventurer like myself. I mean, this giant structure is two thousand years old and was constructed by the Romans without cement or clamps, and was still bringing water into the town a hundred years ago. Amazing to think of the skills that those Romans possessed while the rest of us Europeans were up to our knees in shit in our mud huts. These guys clearly understood mathematics, geometry, gravity and the curvature of the Earth. They had nice uniforms, too.

After viewing this epic structure from every possible angle and taking way too many pictures, we ascend into the city proper and make our way to the main square, passing numerous gorgeous architectural gems making the town a living museum.

Suddenly, however, I notice a strange gentleman following us. See, sometimes being a paranoid jittery bag of nerves has its advantages.

All visitors to the great sights of Europa should be aware of the existence of smelly people intent on relieving them of their valuables, which reminds me of a recent post on Tripadvisor.com where some cretin gave a Madrid hotel a terrible rating simply because outside he’d had his bulging wallet removed from his back pocket by a thief. Doh!

Here’s what you do to prevent yourself falling victim to the pickpockets (and yes, fat middle-aged Americans, I’m talking to you!). Put your passport, tickets, cash and credit cards in your hotel safe. If your room doesn’t have one, either lock these items in your suitcase or put them in a money belt to be worn under your shirt, tucked into your trousers.

Then each day, work out how much cash you’re likely to need and put that in a loose roll in your front pocket. Dress down (easy for me!), don’t flaunt your Rolex, stuff your flashy camera in a bag which doesn’t look like a camera bag, and without being paranoid, be aware of people around you.

The thieves work in teams. A spotter selects a good target, then the gang moves in and one member will attempt to distract you while the others remove your gear without you realising. I know this because I’ve seen it in action several times.

Anyway, there we were on the narrow streets of Segovia and my weirdo/criminal radar is telling me of an approaching nutter. This guy is smiling strangely and seems to be tailing us. We speed up, do a bit of weaving, but he’s still there. Luckilly the main square hoves into view, and there stands a very cool-looking Spanish policeman. Baseball cap, shades, goatee, and a uniform that looks like sportswear – oh, and a fucking great automatic pistol, too.

So we stop and have a casual chat near this suave upholder of the law, and turn to face our stalker, whose strange smile momentarily leaves his countenance upon spotting the cop, and he slinks off to the nearby tourist information office, lurking behind other less-wary visitors, no doubt.

I contemplate informing the officer of this weirdo, but decide that it is not the thing for an anarchist like me to do. Besides, our friend in blue is busy chatting up some strumpet.

Segovia cathedral, enormous edifice of sandy-coloured stone looms in front of us, and wonderful though it is, we decide that after our experiences in Toledo, it is perhaps better to enjoy it from the outside rather than enter and be fleeced by the Papists and suppressed by pedantic and constricting regulations.

So off we head to the opposite side of the citadel, heading for the splendid Alcazar, a fairytale castle built like the prow of a ship jutting out into space.

The Moors first built fortifications here in the twelfth century, but many of the fancy turrets were added considerably later. It pains me to say it, but word is that Walt Disney used it as a template, but don’t let that put you off, for it is an amazing place.

Inside, as well as a comprehensive collection of medieval armour and weapons, there is a museum of artillery and another concerning early astronomy. The castle itself still has strong ties with the military, as evidenced by the large group of uniformed cadets gathered outside who contained among their number a number of young ladies. I was unable to restrain myself from bursting into a mantra-like chant of “girls with guns, girls with guns” before being forced to desist by my embarrassed companion.

The upper levels of the Alcazar are full of chapels, royal apartments and lofty battlements, but the piece de resistance ( or it’s Spanish equivalent) is the central tower. After ascending a knackering and frankly dangerous stone staircase to the top, the views were stunning indeed, and a fine chance to get both the polarisation filter an the zoom lens working.

While all this camera nerding was taking place upstairs, my companion, who eschews all forms of physical exercise, inexplicably chose to hide at the bottom under the stairwell, where I later found her curled up asleep on the cold floor like a cat.

Choosing a restaurant was again a difficult and trying experience. Guide books are no use, since they tend to concentrate on the renowned and hence the expensive. It remains then to spot somewhere that has enough clients that you know it serves half decent grub, but in Spain it was inordinately problematic to do this since we could not figure out the correct time to eat. Rumour has it that the locals eat a late lunch, say between 2pm and 4pm, but in Segovia everywhere looked deserted.

In the end the place we chose, while reasonable, was too full of underemployed flunkies to be comfortable, and the palpable difference in service between us, the set menu cheapskates, and the Spanish family nearby gorging themselves like Kings, made the whole experience somewhat less than satisfactory. The food was shite, ‘n’ all!

However, this in no way dampened our spirits on what was a superb day out to a truley remarkable location, and once again, as we hurtled back to Madrid on the AVE, we could not but rue the shortness of the visit and the vast number of splendours left unseen…

Mårten Sandén är i Stockholm några dagar i veckan. Där har han sitt ena jobb: han gör låtar (helst country men oftast pop) tillsammans med olika låtskrivarkolleger. På skiva kan låtarna höras med bland andra Jivin´ Jake, Wizex, Joyride, Charlotte Nilsson och Alcazar. 

Sitt andra jobb sköter Mårten Sandén under resorna tur och retur mellan Lund och Stockholm: han skriver ungdomsdeckare med tvillingarna Peter och Petra Petrini som problemlösare. Den första, ”Gömstället”, kom 1999 och har sålt cirka 25 000 exemplar. Nu i våras kom den senaste och sjätte, som heter ”Skatan”. 

– Resan tar fyra timmar. Lika länge räcker batteriet i datorn. Det har passat mig bra att skriva på tåget.

Att de unga detektiverna är tvillingar och att bokserien försetts med vinjetten ”Petrinideckarna” får en att ana varifrån inspirationen kan ha kommit. Jodå, det stämmer.  

– Som barn läste jag, intygar Mårten, Osynliga klubben av Gunnel Linde, Femböckerna av Enid Blyton och förstås Tvillingdetektiverna av Sivar Ahlrud. Och som författare är det kul att försöka utveckla och modernisera den här sortens ungdomsdeckare för en ny generation unga läsare.

Oavsett om de skrivs för äldre eller yngre så brukar serieromaner – alltså en serie böcker där samma personer och miljöer återkommer – vara lika älskade av läsarna som  hatade av kritikerna.            

Mårten Sandén. Foto: Christian Saltas.

– Några av de här böckerna skrevs säkert väldigt fort. Men de är skrivna med gott humör och mycket humor. Och både Femböckerna och särskilt Tvillingdetektiverna kunde vara mycket stämningsfulla.

– Ivar Ahlstedt (hälften av pseudonymen Sivar Ahlrud) var en bra författare. Böckerna om Tvillingdetektiverna blev högkvalitativa reportage om Stockholm på 50-talet. Miljöerna var autentiska. Man kan fortfarande promenera i Stockholm med böckerna som guide.

– Det finns många fördelar med att skriva serieböcker. Man kan utveckla personerna och bygga upp en värld under loppet av några böcker.

Också Mårten Sandéns ungdomsdeckare utspelar sig i autentiska miljöer. I böckerna finns dessutom en karta över Lund där läsarna till exempel kan se var tvillingarna Peter och Petra bor (på Lilla Fiskargatan).

– Jag vet att läsarna vill kontrollera mig. Stämmer det som jag skriver? Det där fönstret, kan man verkligen se det därifrån?

–  Turistbyrån har faktiskt ordnat stadsvandringar. Någon museiperson går runt med en grupp barn, visar  bokmiljöerna och väver in lite av Lunds historia.

Något som skiljer Petrinideckarna från sina föregångare Tvillingdetektiverna är att Peter och Petra blir äldre. Det sägs inte rätt ut i böckerna, men visst kommer de upp i högre skolklasser och blir intresserade av ”vuxnare” saker (som kärlek)?

– Nja, i så fall är det omedvetet. Tvillingarna var i tolvårsåldern när jag började skriva om dem och de får inte bli för gamla. För jag vill fortsätta att skriva om dem.

– Men samtidigt… Har du läst John Updikes böcker om Haren? Han har skrivit fyra böcker om samma människa – på 60-, 70-, 80- och 90-talet. Att följa en person under så många år är fascinerande.  

Mellan raderna kan också anas att Peter och Petra, som på omslagen har svart och lockigt hår, nog inte ser ut riktigt som alla lundabor. Själv gissade jag på afro-amerikaner eller en latin-blandning. Men det var fel.

– De kan ha lite indianblod i sig. Men de är judisk-italienska till största delen. Jag har ju alltid bott i Lund så jag tyckte det var spännande att låta några komma hit utifrån och uppleva staden med nya ögon.

– Peter och Petra kommer från New York som ju är en smältdegel av olika sorters människor. Precis som Sverige börjat bli. Tack och lov!

(Publicerat i Kvällsposten 2004)

Fragt man einen Spanier, welche Städte sich für einen Tagesausflug von Salamanca aus am besten eignen, ist Segovia immer eine der erstgenannten. Es war also nicht weiter verwunderlich, dass wir uns für unseren zweiten Ausflug das gut 55.000-Einwohner-Städtchen ausgesucht haben. Am vergangenen Samstag hieß es also früh aufstehen und mit dem Bus in knapp drei Stunden nach Segovia fahren. Um 8:30 Uhr ging es schon los. Die zwei Stunden weniger Schlaf haben sich aber wirklich gelohnt!

Unser Trip in Fakten…

• Lage: Segovia liegt etwa 90 Kilometer nordwestlich von Madrid. Von Salamanca aus sind es circa 180 Kilometer. Trotz der relativ geringen Entfernung, ist die Landschaft rund um Segovia eine ganz andere. Während man in Salamanca kilometerweit oft nichts als nichts sieht, hat man in Segovia Bäume, ganze Wälder und Berge im Blick. Von der ungefähr 1000 Meter hoch gelegenen Stadt aus, lässt sich am Horizont schon die Sierra de Guadarrama erkennen. Die Gipfel der Bergkette sind im Winter sogar mit Schnee bedeckt.
• Sights: Ganz schön beeindruckend!, hab ich gedacht, als ich den fast einen Kilometer langen und bis zu knapp 30 Meter hohen römischen Aquädukt zum erstem Mal gesehen habe. Zu seinen Glanzzeiten, ab dem ersten Jahrhundert n. Chr., versorgte er die Stadt aus dem 15 Kilometer entfernten Gebirge mit Wasser.
  Die gotische Kathedrale von Segovia ist auch wirklich schön anzuschauen. Sie wurde ab dem Jahr 1525 erbaut und sieht der Catedral Nueva von Salamanca ein bisschen ähnlich.
  Das touristische Highlight der Stadt ist der Alcázar, eine der bekanntesten Burgen Spaniens. Mit dem Bau wurde im 11. Jahrhundert begonnen und im Lauf der Jahre war der Alcázar immer wieder Sitz der spanischen Könige. Da die Burg eine Vielzahl kleiner Türme besitzt und auf einem Bergrücken erbaut wurde, erinnert sie etwas an das bayerische Schloss Neuschwanstein. Ausgestattet mit Audioguide haben wir das restaurierte Innere des Alcázar erkundet. Die originale Ausstattung der Säle wurde bei einem Brand leider zerstört. Zum Schluss ging es dann noch 150 Stufen hoch auf den Turm Juan II, von wo aus man eine herrliche Aussicht auf Segovia und die Umgebung genießen konnte.
• Leute: Die Segovianos sind ganz klar auf viele Touristen aus aller Herren Länder eingestellt. Ab und an lässt leider die Freundlichkeit ein bisschen zu wünschen übrig. Während der Mann an der Touristinformation uns noch sehr nett erklärt hatte, wie wir am besten laufen müssen um keine der Sehenswürdigkeiten zu verpassen, war der Typ am Eingang des Alcázar sehr ungeduldig beim Ticketverkaufen; und im ersten Café hat man uns auch nach einer viertel Stunde Wartezeit nicht bedienen wollen. Schade.

Fazit: 3 Sterne für die Lage, 4 für die Sights und 3 Sterne Abzug wegen der Unfreundlichkeit. Macht 4 Sterne insgesamt und Segovia zu einem wunderschönen Reiseziel.

Acueducto Romano (x2), Catedral de nuestra Señora de la Asunción y de San Frutos (x2), Alcázar (x2), Blick über Segovia, Casa de los Picos, die Mädels mit was Süßem

September 8th

An AVE train at Toledo Station

Up at the ungodly hour of 7am in order to get on the swish AVE high-speed train for the brief thirty-minute ride out to tourist trap and World Heritage Site Toledo.

As I marvelled at the splendour of the train and observed the scorched and arid countryside surrounding Madrid (where the hell do they get their water from?), I couldn’t help noticing the group of three fellow Brits seated nearby.

Well, the southern coast of Spain may well be a magnet for the lager louts and Sharons of the British Isles, but it is an entirely different type of Briton who goes to Toledo.

Brits in Spain

Let me introduce you to Piers. I know his name was Piers, because that’s what his two female companions called him. Late thirties, portly, wearing non-jeans and a red shirt shirt, notepad and pen tucked into the pocket, ruddy-cheeked countenance topped by an untidy mop of sandy hair and adorned with an unfashionable pair of spectacles whose lenses were caked with grime.

In his Oxfordian tones he boomed out obscure ecclesiastical facts while his cohorts nodded sagely, sometimes one or all of them noting things down in books with stubby pencils.

Now Piers may have had all the hallmarks of a nerd, but I have to say I rather admired him. Like so many of his background he was possessed of the kind of unshakeable self-confidence that I could only dream of.

No, Piers did not care a whit if others could hear his arcane expositions concerning the finer details of the Duke of Mantua’s heraldic crest (two crossed halibuts and a dentist’s drill), nor was he bothered about what others thought of his less-than fashionable attire.

A halibut

Piers – I salute you, man of conviction and steadfast purpose in the face of the fickle fashions of modernity!

Toledo’s setting is dramatic indeed – a medieval citadel perched atop a craggy outcrop, defended by steep ravines on all sides, and dominated by the imposing box-like Alcazar or castle and the giant cathedral.

We made straight for the latter after discovering that unfortunately the former was closed for renovation. Bloody typical.

Toledo's Alcazar

Now you might think that finding an enormous church visible from miles outside of the town would be easy, but Toledo’s streets are extremely narrow and winding, blocking practically any kind of visual clues from afar, but eventually we made it, sweating profusely in the 36C heat, and proceeded inside.

Toledo cathedral was not a pleasant experience for me. Normally I love wandering in a contemplative mood under the towering arches hoping for a glimpse of a large organ or two. However, this place is run by Nazis, it seems.

First up, there is an entrance fee. An entrance fee for a church? Outrageous! Then the draconian rules. Can I take photos? No. But I don’t use flash, I’m a ‘real‘ photgrapher. No. and take your hat off as well.

Unfortunately this just served to bring out the Anarchist in me, and my head was filled with violent anti-Catholic sentiment and images of certain acts from the Spanish Civil War as I loped awkwardly through the interior, which in all honesty, was far more interesting from the outside than within.

Pin 'n' Paella

For lunch we chose a popular sparrow-infested spot in the main square. Pin ordered the obligatory paella, while I thought I’d be adventurous and randomly picked three items from the menu. Well, the egg was well and truly on my face when they all turned out to be variations on the humble potato.

Next, a quest for an El Greco masterpiece hidden away in a little church called San Tome. Confidently taking the map, I managed to guide us to precisely the opposite end of the town, and we were only saved from eternal confustication by the kindly intervention of an elderly inhabitant who set us right.

El Greco - The Burial of Count Orgaz

By the time we’d located and viewed The Greek’s composition, it was getting late and so we had to forgo entrance to the two intriguing synagogues in the nearby Jewish quarter, and instead finish our visit to Toledo with a long walking tour around the town and then back to the station.

Hmm...which way?

It was during this pleasant peregrination around the city walls that I spied in the distance a strange line of shuffling beings clad in floppy hats, some holding aloft small parasols, some wielding large cameras, and all wearing spectacles. Out in front was a flag-bearing leader, ushering along her flock. Who were they? An obscure sect of mendicants on a pilgrimage? Closer inspection revealed the shocking truth – a Japanese tour group!!

Now to be honest, we were at this juncture lost again, and the time of our train was drawing near, so on a sudden inspiration I decided to tag along at the end of the tour group, sure in the knowledge that the guide would bring us back to civilisation. We moved through a tunnel under the town walls, and there, before us in gleaming steel and aluminium, was a set of outdoor escalators ascending up to the citadel. Yes, trust those lazy Japanese to home in on possibly the only such contrivance in the whole of Toledo! Anything but actually use your own feet to propel you forward!

Well, it got us back on track and we made it just in time for our train back to Madrid, so God bless them idle sons and daughters of Nippon.

(More photos of this trip can be found here).

This Majestic example of Spanish architechture, incorporating both the Moorish and Medieval Catholic traditions is situated in the picturesque province of Castile-Leon, Northwest of Madrid. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the old city of Segovia is spectacularly situated atop a long, narrow promontory. It contains a wealth of monuments, including a cathedral, a magnificent ancient Roman aqueduct, and the beautiful fairy-tale spires of the Alcázar, or castle-palace, that towers over the countryside below.

Alcazar castle in Segovia, Spain, was first mentioned in records dating back to 1122 as a hill-fort set atop a rocky outcrop between the rivers Bergsma and Clamores. By 1155 this hill-fort became known as “Alcazar”, which in Arabic meant royal residence. It is a stone fortification, located in the old city of Segovia, Spain. Rising out on a rocky crag above the confluence of the rivers Eresma and Clamores near the Guadarrama mountains, it is one of the most distinctive castle-palaces in Spain by virtue of its shape – like the bow of a ship. The Alcázar was originally built as a fortress but has served as a royal palace, a state prison, a Royal Artillery College and a military academy since then.

The Alcázar of Segovia, like many fortifications in Spain, started off as an Arab fort. The first reference to this particular Alcázar was in 1120, around 32 years after the city of Segovia returned to Christian hands (during the time when Alfonso VI of Castile reconquered lands to the south of the Duero river down to Toledo and beyond). However, archaeological evidence suggests that the site of this Alcázar was once used in Roman times as a fortification. This theory is further substantiated by the presence of Segovia’s famous Roman Aqueduct.
The shape and form of the Alcázar was not known until the reign of King Alfonso VIII (1155-1214), however early documentation mentioned a wooden stockade fence. It can be concluded that prior to Alfonso VIII’s reign, it was no more than a wooden fort built over the old Roman foundations. Alfonso VIII and his wife, Eleanor of Plantagenet made this Alcázar their principal residence and much work was carried out to erect the beginnings of the stone fortification we see today.

The Alcázar, throughout the Middle Ages, remained one of the favorite residences of the monarchs of the Kingdom of Castile and a key fortress in the defense of the kingdom. It was during this period a majority of the current building was constructed and the palace was extended on a large scale by the monarchs of the Trastámara dynasty.
In 1258, parts of the Alcázar had to be rebuilt by King Alfonso X of Castile after a cave-in and soon after the Hall of Kings was built to house Parliament. However, the single largest contributor to the continuing construction of the Alcázar is King John II which built the ‘New Tower’ (John II tower as it is known today).

In 1474, the Alcázar played a major role in the rise of Queen Isabella I of Castile. On the 12th December news of the King Henry IV’s death in Madrid reached Segovia and Isabella immediately took refuge within the walls of this Alcázar where she received the support of Andres Cabrera and Segovia’s council. She was crowned the next day as Queen of Castile and Leon. It was also the site where she married Fernando II.
The next major renovation at the Alcázar was conducted by King Phillip II after his marriage to Anna of Austria. He added the sharp slate spires to reflect the castles of central Europe. In 1587, architect Francisco de Morar completed the main garden and the School of Honor areas of the castle.

The royal court eventually moved to Madrid and the Alcázar then served as a state prison for almost two centuries before King Carlos III founded the Royal Artillery School in 1762. It served this function for almost a hundred years until March 6 1862 where a fire badly damaged the roofs and framework.
It was only in 1882 that the building was slowly restored to its original state. In 1896, King Alfonso XIII ordered the Alcázar to be handed over to the Ministry of War as a military college.
Today, the Alcázar remains one of the most popular historical sights in Spain and is one of the three major attractions in Segovia. Notable rooms are the Hall of Ajimeces which houses many works of art, the Hall of the Throne and the Hall of Kings with a frieze representing all of the Spanish Kings and Queens starting from Pelagius of Asturias down to Juana la Loca after moving to El Palacio Real in Madrid, Spain

Sevilla, Spain – June 23rd 2009

Gotta love it when hostels have breakfast for free. Even if its just toast, cereal and juice. It definitely beats paying for it. I tuck in for a hearty feed, I go back for a few seconds. I head off on a walk past the Bullfighting arena aka Maestranza Bullring (its one of the biggest and most famed  and oldest in Spain). And make my way to the Cathedral De Sevilla. Its the 3rd largest cathedral in the world and its got the famed Bell tower too. It also has the largest area (according to a certificate I read in the cathedral from the Guiness book of records). And lets not talk about the heat, because its very very hot – close to 50 hot.

Sevilla Cathedral

Giraldo Tower

I have to wait outside, as I get there a little early, who would of thought, me getting somewhere before it opened, its amazing. And waiting outside some gypsy harrasses me with some herb thing and a ‘fortune telling’ which is bollocks. We know its a ruse, she asks for money, I walk off and wait outside. Its not as spectacular as the Cathedrals of St Peters and Pauls. But I quite like the understated nature of it.

The cathedral opens up and I walk inside. The line is pretty big, I guess its a number 1 attraction here. But I get cheap tickets. Score! Thank you old student card! And walk in.

The inside of the cathedral is mighty impressive. The choir vestibules is made out of 18th century Mahogony, and the alter is all covered in Gold Leaf. There is a section roped off at the back, for people to sleep (not sure why, I didn’t get to find out) and then walk around. What I find most impressive is a big tomb being carried by four giant kings (representing kingdoms in spain). The inscription reads “Christobel Columbus” – its christopher columbus’ tomb. That was unexpected. Its quite grand, and I guess for his efforts they should be.

Gold Leaf Alter

Columbus Tomb

Mirror Mirror

I cruise around the rest of the church, taking in the many small alters and vestibules that are here. Before climbing the passage to the Giraldo Tower – the massive structure you see from anywhere in Sevilla. The views are pretty impressive, but as soon as I get to the top there is a massive bell toilling – I’ve got good timing thats for sure. I walk back down and then chill in the Orange Grove courtyard and relax before heading off.

The View over the Alcazar in Sevilla

There was an exhibition next to the cathedral that was free and was about the Spanish involvement in the discovery of the USA. It was quite a cool exhibition, from what I could gather from my little knowledge of the spainish language. And I run into one of the Americans from Lagos.

I head back to the hostel for some cheap grub – sambos and a siesta before doing some more walking about.

I go up to the bridge and cross it, where there is a watch tower on the river. I walk up past the Uni and its pretty massive for a university. Before making my way to get some water and then to the Alcazar – a Royal Palace that is still used by the spainish royal family. Its pretty nice, and some cool moorish tones to it. Its also free thanks to mister student card.

A part of the Alcazar

I go back to the hostel and cook some dinner, and have some beers before heading out with an american room mate on a pub crawl. Its a tuesday night, and its basically just the pub crawl group that is out. Its pretty fun and we get pretty fucking hammered. We end up at a club that is on the river, but its deserted – literally. It would be cool if it wasn’t deserted.

Segovia

Segovia, Castilla León, España

El Alcazar

Segovia es una ciudad española en la parte meridional de la comunidad autónoma de Castilla y León, capital de la provincia del mismo nombre. Se sitúa en la confluencia de los ríos Eresma y Clamores al pie de la sierra de Guadarrama.

La escultura urbana tiene un gran protagonismo en Segovia y está protagonizada por obras que representan a ilustres personajes vinculados a la ciudad, a los que se ha querido rendir homenaje de esta manera, aunque también podemos encontrar diversas imágenes de tipo religioso. Una de las esculturas más emblemáticas de la ciudad es la loba capitolina que se ubica frente al acueducto, una copia de la escultura Luperca que se conserva en el Museo Capitolino, y fue un obsequio que Roma entregó a la ciudad en 1974 durante los actos de celebración del bimilenario del acueducto.

Alojamiento

Les recomendamos alojarse en el Hotel Eurostars Plaza Acueducto frente al famoso Acueducto de Segovia que puede ser contemplado desde muchas de sus habitaciones. La excelente ubicación del hotel, le permite pasear por el casco histórico sin necesidad de utilizar ningún transporte. Se trata de un edificio de nueva construcción inaugurado en el verano del 2006. El Plaza Acueducto cuenta con modernas instalaciones, que ofrecen todo tipo de comodidades para que pueda disfrutar de una estancia cómoda y agradable y pueda descubrir no sólo la hermosa de ciudad de Segovia sino también todos sus alrededores. Su personal es muy agradable y atento.

Acueducto de Segovia

Panorámica de Segovia desde el Acueducto

Lugares de Interés

• El Acueducto Romano
  
• El Alcázar
  
• Catedral
• Biblioteca Pública
• Biblioteca de la Catedral
• Museo de Segovia.
• Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Esteban Vicente.^[7]
• Museo del Palacio Episcopal.
• Museo de la Academia de Artillería.

Rutas

• Rutas del Románico en Segovia


View Larger Map

Tomamos un tour a Segovia, el  cual lo organizamos desde el hotel, en estos detalles son los que me convencen más sobre la calidad y buen servicio de la membresía vacacional con la cual realizamos nuestros viajes www.royal-holiday.com.

Salimos muy temprano del hotel ya que nuestro Tour era para regresar en la noche a Madrid. En el camino volvimos a disfrutar de la hermosa vista de la sierra de Guadarrama, la cual ya habíamos conocido cuando fuimos al Escorial. Segovia es una ciudad muy pintoresca  ,con callecitas, casas muy antiguas, aquí  sobre sale su catedral la cual es de estilo gótico es de techos amplios y tiene mas o menos unas 20 capillas,y también cuenta con un claustro y un museo y el Alcazares.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alc%C3%A1zar_de_Segovia ó castillo que tiene una vista maravillosa  de la ciudad y de la sierra de Guadarrama ,El Alcázar  sufrió un incendio por lo cual parte de el fue reconstruido en el siglo XIX, pero en la edad media vivió su mejor época visitamos dentro de el varias habitaciones decoradas con armaduras, pinturas y muebles.

 El alcázar cuenta con una torre la cual se puede subir, sus escalones son muy estrechos y subir aproximadamente 80 de altura donde pudimos ver la Sierra que nos ofreció un espectáculo muy bonito ya que tenia un poco de nieve.

 Es este lugar, sobresalen los restos de la arquitectura Árabe, hay muchas iglesias como la de San Juan de los Caballeros, de San Esteban, la Iglesia De la Vera Cruz. Continuamos nuestra visita.

El Palacio Real de Madrid es la residencia oficial de Su Majestad el Rey de España, que lo emplea en las ceremonias de Estado, aunque no habita en él.

El origen del palacio se remonta al siglo IX en el que el reino musulmán de Toledo construyó una edificación defensiva que después usaron los reyes de Castilla, sobre la que en el Siglo XVI, se construyó el Antiguo Alcázar.

Destruido este por un incendio en la Nochebuena de 1734, Felipe V quiso que el Palacio Nuevo ocupase el mismo lugar. Toda la construcción se hizo abovedada, en piedra y ladrillo, sin madera, para que ningún incendio pudiera destruirlo.
Las obras se realizaron entre 1738 y 1755, estableciendo Carlos III su residencia en él en 1764.

Para su decoración interior, se emplearon ricos materiales: mármoles españoles, estucos, madera de caoba en puertas y ventanas e importantes obras de arte, en especial las pinturas al fresco de los principales artistas del momento como Giaquinto,Tiepolo o Mengs y sus seguidores españoles Bayeu y Maella.

La decoración del Palacio Real de Madrid ha ido cambiando con el paso del tiempo según los diferentes estilos artísticos de cada momento. Del reinado de Carlos III se conservan el Salón del Trono, la Cámara del Rey (o de Gasparini) y la Sala de Porcelana, obra de la Real Fábrica del Buen Retiro. Del reinado de Carlos IV destaca el Salón de Espejos y de época Alfonso XII el Comedor de Gala. 

La decoración del Salón del Trono se conserva intacta desde el reinado de Carlos III. La bóveda fue pintado al fresco por Tiepolo, que la terminó en 1766, y representa la Alegoría de la Monarquía Española, con personificaciones delos reinos que la integraban en el siglo XVIII.

El mobiliario de talla dorada y el bordado de la colgadura de terciopelo fueron realizados en Nápoles, donde Carlos III había reinado. Los espejos, enormes para la época, son de la Real Fábrica de La Granja, y las arañas de cristal de roca fueron adquiridas en 1780 en Venecia.

Velázquez trajo en 1650, desde Roma, los leones de bronce dorado que flanquean el dosel del trono. Palacio alberga una selecta Galería de Pinturas, con importantes obras como el “Políptico de Isabel I la Católica”, obra de Juan de Flandes, “Salomé con la cabeza del Bautista” pintado por Caravaggio, un “Caballo” realizado por Velázquez o diversos cuadros de Goya; también se exhiben importantes instrumentos musicales, como el cuarteto realizado para el rey de España por Estradivarius y la importantísima colección de la Real Armería.

Los jardines de Palacio llamados Campo del Moro, tienen su origen en época de Felipe II, aunque su aspecto actual data de 1890. La plaza situada al Este de Palacio, llamada por esto de Oriente, recientemente remodelada, está adornada con varias de las esculturas de reyes de España realizadas durante el reinado de Fernando VI, para la decoración exterior de Palacio.

La Real Armería está considerada como una de las colecciones más importantes de su género. Conserva armas y armaduras pertenecientes a los reyes de España y a otros miembros de la Familia Real, desde el siglo XIII.

Tras un largo periodo de restauración, se reabre al público la Real Armería, a partir del mes de junio de 2.000, presentando una importante selección de armas y armaduras del periodo medieval, así como la armería de Carlos V y Felipe II.

Para más información: http://www.patrimonionacional.es/Home/Palacios-Reales/Palacio-Real-de-Madrid.aspx

Les jardins de l’Alcazar …

De Galicia a Andalusia …52 , Sevilla , Les jardins de

l’Alcazar …

12 octobre 2008

Sevilla , Ronda , San Pedro de Alcantara , Marbella ,

Andalusia

Un baobab …

Il faut se rendre compte qu’en été , il fait 40° à l’ombre à Séville …

Voilà pourquoi la fraicheur des jardins de l’Alcazar représente le paradis …

Une cascade jaillit du toit …

Dans un bassin rafraichissant à souhait …

Il faut se souvenir que dans les mille et une nuits , les princes arabes considéraient les jardins ombragés , avec des bassins et des jeux d’eau , avec des arbres et des oiseaux , comme des lieux paradisiaques …

Et c’est ce qu’ils essayaient de reproduire dans leurs palais …

S’y promener un matin d’octobre est un vrai délice …

Dans la douce et agréable fraicheur matinale …

hier soir on a dîné sur la place derrière l’Alcazar , dehors , en tee-shirt , à minuit …

Et ce ne sont pas les fleurs qui manquent …

On ne se croirait pas en plein centre de Séville …

Ville de plus de 100 000 habitants au XVIIème siècle !

Et de plus de 700 000 habitants aujourd’hui !

On aperçoit les tours de L’Alcazar …

Un patio ouvert dans le jardin …

Et des palmiers bien sûr !

Encore une vue sur les murailles …

Une girouette sur le toit de l’Alcazar …

Même dans les patios on y trouve des jardins …

A bientôt , pour la suite du voyage …

Amitiés et bisousssssssssss

Fréderic

Une porte du jardin avec le leones …

Los palacios reales Alcazares …

Le patio del Yeso …

De Galicia a Andalusia …51 , Sevilla , Alcazar …

12 octobre 2008

Sevilla , Ronda , San Pedro de Alcantara , Marbella , Andalusia

La journée va être longue !

Nous partons pour l’ouverture de L’Alcazar à 9h30 , puis nous irons à pied à la plazza de España , après ce sera la route pour Ronda , et nous irons à la plage à San Pedro de Alcantara et nous terminerons la soirée au resto à Marbella avec des amis anglais qui sont en vacances ici …

L’entrée de l’Alcazar , la puerta del Leon …

Ça n’est pas encore ouvert …

Nous serons les premiers , pas de queue , pas d’attente …

A la sortie , ce n’était pas la même chose …

L’entrée , le patio de la Monteria …

La fameuse coupole en bois doré du salon de los embajadores …

Dans le salon de los embajadores , il y a trois porches successifs avec des arcs en fer à cheval …

On voit ici le porche , de face …

Encore une enfilade de porches …

La partie refaite par Charles Quint …

Un arc finement ciselé …

Encore un mur de stuc de mudéjar , de l’origine du palais , en 844 …

Du sol au plafond , tout est finement travaillé …

Le patio del Yeso …

Détail de l’entrée dans le patio del Yeso …

Le patio del Yeso , avec son petit canal pour rafraichir l’atmosphère …

L’allée de la sortie du palais , la route des calèches …

A bientôt , pour la suite du voyage …

Amitiés et bisousssssssssss

Fréderic

A jewel : the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela

…

It’s the aim of so many pilgrim travellers for hope

of a better life …

De Galicia a Andalusia …1

2008 , 5th october

Paris – Pontevedra

Plane from Paris Orly to Madrid , then Madrid to Santiago

Arrived at 12h55

It’s today’s trip …

All the old buildings are in the center , around the cathedral

Here is the covento san Martino Pinario

The town city hall

The cathedrale , seen from the left

Details of front

And here with the majestic stairs …

The hostal de los reyes catolicos

It’s a royal palace converted in a parador …

A parador is a luxuous hotel , like the castle hotels …

Parador entry…

Right side of the cathedral

Details of front face …

Statues are telling us the pilgrim stories …

Behind the cathedral

To continue the trip from Galicia to Andalusia , please connect you on my french blog :

Les évasions de Fréderic at : http://fredericevasion.wordpress.com/

you will find there the 70 chapters of this marvelous trip from santiago de Compostela to Granada , through Porto , Lisboa and Sevilla

yes , comments are in french , but main thing is the pics …

but if you have any interest , let me know , i will trandslate you , the comment you need

Kind regards

Frederic

AVERTISSEMENT :

Mardi 2 juin 2009 , Yahoo nous informe que nos blogs 360° seront supprimés le 13 juillet !

J’y écrivais mon livre : Destination terre , en 3 livres :

Livre premier : Les dieux

Livre deuxième : Les peuples

Livre troisième : La terre

Le livre premier , les dieux , est paru sur Yahoo 360° du 18 octobre 2006 au 10 aout 2007

J’en étais au 2/3 du livre second : les peuples

J’ avais de 500 à 2000 visites par jour , ce qui me faisait un total au 12 juillet 2009 de 445 958 visites …

Ces derniers jours , je dépassais les 4000 visites par jour !

Quel dommage que ça s’arrête !

Yahoo nous propose de migrer sur un autre site , mais dont la qualité est d’une telle pauvreté , que 9 bloggeurs sur 10 , n’y migrent pas , ou alors seulement le temps de trouver un nouveau site plus agréable et accueillant …

Voilà pourquoi je suis ici …

*********************************************************************************

Mais aussi , j’y partageais avec vous , mes voyages …

J’ai donc repris ici , sous le blog des évasions de Fréderic , le cours de mes voyages …

Un peu de Bretagne , puis mon voyage de Galicie à l’Andalousie …

Et bientôt de nouveaux voyages …

**********************************************************************************

et maintenant une brève présentation de mon livre : DESTINATION TERRE

puis vous trouverez ensuite les tables des matières de mes blogs

**********************************************************************************

 DESTINATION TERRE

Fréderic VIDAL

Livre premier : les dieux

La terraformation de la terre par les dieux …

********************************************************************

Destination terre , c’est l’histoire , inconnue , d’avant l’histoire , connue …

C’est l’histoire des édenistes et des atlantes , et de leur colonisation de la terre …

C’est aussi des explications cohérentes à tous les mystères de la terre …

La bible , le Pop Wuh , la mythologie et les récits légendaires , etc …sont les sources de cette histoire …

L’île de Pâques , les pyramides , l’Atlantide , et bien d’autres mystères , nous apparaissent sous un jour nouveau

Bien des théories que l’on retrouve dans ce livre existent déjà , mais pour la première fois , elles sont regroupées en une suite et une histoire cohérente …

A vous de juger …

**************************************************

En cours d’écriture :

Livre deuxième : Les peuples

L’exode des cosaques du Dniepr vers le Kouban

Tableau exposé au Kouban

Ce tableau illustre bien pour moi la colonisation , toujours très difficile , de notre terre, par les populations terriennes , toujours chassées vers un plus loin , ailleurs …

Des révélations encore plus explosives !

Oui , c’est possible …

**************************************************

A suivre :

 Livre troisième : La terre

Là , ce sera l’apothéose …

***********************************************************************

les articles suivants vous présentent les tables des matières de mes blogs

Je vous souhaite une agréable lecture

Fréderic VIDAL , FRANCE , Bourgogne et Bretagne

 ***************************************************************************

COPYRIGHT : textes et images en copyright

Diffusion et traduction non commerciale libre , sous réserve de citations de la source et de l’auteur