For December’s meeting of the book club we are going to be reading Annapurna by Maurice Herzog.

This is the story of the first ascent of an 8000 meter peak in 1953 – a very gripping account of the battle to summit, and descend and survive.   We are also going to have some rarely seen movies from the ascent and other ephemera to look at.

The library has copies available for check out if you need one!

Related books

• Bowman, W.E., The Ascent of the Rum Doodle
• Roberts, David, True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna
• Terray, Lionel, Conquistadors of the Useless
• Rebuffat, Gaston, Starlight and Storm

* Source : – The Blog of The American Alpine Club Library

** Previous story : – Books.

-  American Alpine Club Events – Celebrate Eldo: AAC and ACE Book Release Party.

-  AAC Book Club meeting: Everest – Alone At The Summit.

- AAC Book Club meeting: Next One is August 11th.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Some explorers are truly testing the waters for human limits; such as the kids roaming the oceans and people like Geoff Holt, about to cross the Atlantic in a wheelchair.

Last week also brought Himalayan female milestones and polar speed records; ending with the annual Turkey story for the Thanksgiving weekend!

StatCrunch, take 3: ladies of thin air – beyond Wanda’s footprints With only Annapurna left, Oh Eun Sun is currently leading the world’s14×8000er female rank. But who was the first woman to summit an 8000er? And what is the history of women in Himalaya? Last week ExWeb’s Rodrigo Granzotto Peron continued his interesting crunch of the Himalayan stats, focusing this time on the ladies of thin air.

Spring 2010 Everest preview: Kaltenbrunner & Dujmovits Gerlinde and husband Ralf are reportedly aiming for Everest north face next spring.

2008/2009 Antarctica speed records… The fastest time from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole (1130 km) is currently 33 days, 23 hours and 55 minutes by Canadians Richard Weber, Kevin Valley and Ray Zahab. The fastest solo from Hercules Inlet is 39 days, 7 hours and 49 minutes bagged by American Todd Carmichael. From the Ronne-Filchner (Messner) start point, a distance of 890 km, the speed record is 24 days 8 hours and 50 min done by Norwegians Christian Eide (leader), Rune Midgaard, Mads Agrup and Morten Andvig – averaging a very fast 36.87 km/day. None of the teams/skiers used airdrops or sails for their record-breaking performances.

…and new season roundup Fewer teams are on the ice this season and 11 out of the 17 skiers are women. 5 skiers summitted Everest: Cecilie Skog, Ryan Waters, Meagan McGrath, Bill Hanlon and Arnold Witzig. 5 out of the 17 skiers are Canadians or Canadian residents.

Antarctic wrap-up: Cecilie Skog and Ryan Waters crossed Berkner Island and are skiing on sea ice towards the Dufek Massif, their gateway to the Antarctic continent. They travel fast, up to daily 25 kms in spite of lugging a full load so early in the crossing. Eric Larsen, Dongsheng Liu and Bill Hanlon reported one degree down while the Commonwealth Ladies were “almost sweating” in the sun.

Desert wrap-up: The river Nile Christian Bodegren reached his first big landmark on his Sahara crossing, The Nile. He changed guides and bought a new camel for the next leg.

Two Clipper Race yachts collided A dramatic start on 22 November to Race 4 of Clipper 09-10 in Cape Town, South Africa saw eight of the boats cross the start line for the 4,700-mile race to Geraldton, Western Australia, while a collision between Hull & Humber and Cork resulted in the two teams returning to harbor reported the Clipper team.

ExWeb interview with Geoff Holt, “I’ll be returning as master of a sailing yacht, despite my disability” Twenty-five years ago Geoff’s sailing career was cut short by a life changing accident which left him paralyzed from the chest down. He is now heading back to the Atlantic Ocean which he had crossed three times as a teenager; this time as master and commander of his boat, in a wheelchair and full of life lessons. “You can only achieve any of these things when you are comfortable with who you are as a person,” he told ExWeb.

17-year old Ryan Langley preparing for a sail around the world non-stop He got an introduction to sailing when he was just months old and is playing the violin since he was nine: American Ryan Langley is currently preparing to sail non-stop around the world, working full steam ahead with high hopes to secure a main partner.

A little turkey story rerun It began in 2003. The next year there was a rerun. Now it’s an ExWeb tradition. Here goes the annual turkey story. Happy Thanksgiving, guys!

So here you are, getting ready to enter the world of extreme adventure. You are preparing your sponsor and media pitch and time has come to decide on a strategy. Before you decide on which tale to present, ponder this:

Moral of the story: Bullshit might get you to the top, but it won’t keep you there.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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(MountEverest.net) With only Annapurna left, Oh Eun Sun is currently leading the world’s14×8000er female rank.

But who was the first woman to summit an 8000er? And what is the history of women in Himalaya? ExWeb’s Rodrigo Granzotto Peron continues his interesting crunch of the Himalayan stats, focusing this time on the ladies of thin air.

Women’s 8000ers
By Rodrigo Granzotto Peron

I – First Female Ascents on 8000ers:

EV – 1975 – Junko Tabei (JAP)
K2 – 1986 – Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL), Liliane Barrard (FRA)
KG – 1998 – Ginette Harrison (UK)
LH – 1996 – Chantal Mauduit (FRA)
MK – 1990 – Kitty Calhoun (USA)
CH – 1984 – Vera Komarkova, Margita Sterbova (CZE)
DH – 1982 – Lutgaarde Vivijs (BEL)
MN – 1974 – Naoko Nakaseko, Masako Uchida, Meiko Mori (JAP)
NP – 1984 – Liliane Barrard (FRA)
AN – 1978 – Vera Komarkova (CZE), Irene Miller (USA)
GI – 1982 – Marie-Jose Valençot (FRA)
BP – 1983 – Krystyna Palmowska (POL)
GII – 1975 – Anna Okopinska, Halina Kruger-Syrokomska (POL)
SH – 1981 – Junko Tabei (JAP)

First: Manaslu – last: Kangchenjunga – Everest: two (!) female ascents in 1975

The table shows that the first 8000er summited by women was not Everest.

Members of an all-female Japanese expedition, Naoko Nakaseko, Masako Uchida and Meiko Mori topped-out Manaslu in 1974, one year before fellow Japanese Tabei Junko completed her Everest feat.

Junko became world famous for being the first woman to summit Everest on May 16th, 1975 (via the south side). Few know that only 10 days later, Tibetan Ms. Phantog topped-out Everest via the north side.

The last 8000er to be summited by a woman for the first time was, very recently, Kangchenjunga in 1998.

First female doubles: Junko, Vera and Liliane (Wanda permitting)

By her summit of Shisha Pangma in 1981, Junko became the first to bag two female 8000er virgins.

Three years later in 1984, Czech Vera Komarkova summited another female first – Cho Oyu – after becoming the first woman to summit Annapurna in 1978.

However, I have also included French Liliane Barrard, who completed the first female ascents of Nanga Parbat (1984) and K2 (1986).

It is a controversial subject though as K2’ first female ascent is credited to Wanda Rutkiewicz who actually climbed together with Liliane on the summit push. Wanda was faster and topped out a mere one hour ahead of the French.

In my opinion, the two women deserve to share the achievement and I believe Wanda would not oppose to this, had she been alive.

II – Female 8000ers historical ranking

01×8000er – Naoko Nakaseko, Masako Uchida and Meiko Mori (JAP) [1974]
02×8000ers – Junko Tabei (JAP) [1981]
03×8000ers – Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL) [1986]
04×8000ers – Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL) [1987]
05×8000ers – Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL) [1989]
06×8000ers – Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL) [1990]
07×8000ers – Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL) [1991]
08×8000ers – Wanda Rutkiewicz (POL) [1991]
09×8000ers – Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (AUT) [2006]
10×8000ers – Nives Meroi (ITA) [2007]
11×8000ers – Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (AUT) [2008]
12×8000ers – Edurne Pasaban (SPA) [2009]
13×8000ers – Oh Eun-Sun (S-K) [2009]
14×8000ers – ???

Wanda’s kingdom

The 80’s and the 90’s were dominated by the first woman 8000er collector, the astonishing Wanda Rutkiewicz, widely considered the most talented high-altitude lady climber ever.

Polish Wanda summited Everest (1978), Nanga Parbat (1985), K2 (1986), Shisha Pangma (1987), Gasherbrum II (1989), Gasherbrum I (1990), Cho Oyu (1991) and Annapurna (1991). Intended to become her 9th 8000er, Kangchenjunga took Wanda’s life one year later – and the world lost an icon.

It would take 15 years for another woman to equal Rutkiewicz’s record.

Friday, final: Individual and National female ranking

Author’s Notes:
a) The lists are updated to October/2009.
b) Only confirmed main summits are accepted. Non-proved claims, fore-summits (like Shisha Pangma Central, Broad Peak’s Rocky/Fore-Summit, etc.) and disputed summits are discharged. Some facts were proof-checked with Miss Hawley’s Himalayan Database.
c) Some summits are still being investigated – so some entries may be revisited in the following months, with possibly a few corrections to be done.

* Previous story :

– StatCrunch: 8000er mountaineers with 6 summits or more, updated – October/2009.

* see : – Wanda Rutkiewicz – skarb narodowy. /Version polish and english/

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Maurice Herzog, Image from everestnews.com

For December’s meeting of the book club we are going to be reading Annapurna by Maurice Herzog.  This is the story of the first ascent of an 8000 meter peak in 1953 – a very gripping account of the battle to summit, and descend and survive.   We are also going to have some rarely seen movies from the ascent and other ephemera to look at.  The library has copies available for check out if you need one!

Related books

• Bowman, W.E., The Ascent of the Rum Doodle
• Roberts, David, True Summit: What Really Happened on the Legendary Ascent of Annapurna
• Terray, Lionel, Conquistadors of the Useless
• Rebuffat, Gaston, Starlight and Storm

I Recommend….

http://www.guidenepal.com/nepal/

MOUNTAIN EXPEDITIONS – MOUNTAINEERING IN NEPAL with Mountain Sherpa Trekking and Expeditions, Sherpa Guides Company.

Mountaineering is considered the keystone activity that Nepal offers to the climbers than any country in the world. The eight out of the fourteen 8000m peaks lie in Nepal including Mt. Everest (8000m), the highest peak in the world. Ever since, the country opened its peaks to climbers in 1949, the mountaineering activity has become the most popular trend of alluring thousands of adventures seekers to Nepal every Year. The pioneer of all, this Mountaineering was the major starter of tourism in Nepal that dates back to the Successful conquering of mount Annapurna by Mourice Herzog in 1950 and the Mt. Everest by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953. Since then, the record Setting and glory hunt of conquering these peaks have been remarked as the most prestigious earnings and so has been the ultimate dream of any climber to attain. Mountaineering in Nepal is also considered dangerous and life threatening due to the unprecedented Climatic Change and other hazards led by high altitudes. So, If you join any expedition with Mountain Sherpa Trekking & Expedition, our highly experience Sherpa Climber will give you fully safety instructions before the Expedition began. This is very important to minimize the risk of unprecedented climate Change. The Nepal Himalaya has also remained as an inspiration from ages for people from every walk of lives varying from poets to researchers, climbers to trekkers, philosophers to saints and nature Lovers to adventures.

MT.EVEREST EXPEDITION

Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world measuring 8,848m (29,028 feet) in height. It was first climbed on May 29, 1953 by a New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay of Nepal. Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma (goddess mother of the snows), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Mother of the Universe).
Everest had been attempted many times before the important expeditions being that of 1922, 1923 and 1924.The body of George H.L. Mallory who died in an earlier attempt (1924), was discovered on the mountain in 1999. More than 600 climbers from 20 countries have climbed the summit by various routes from both north and south. Climbers’ ages have ranged from nineteen years to sixty. Climbing on Everest is very strictly regulated by both the Nepalese and Chinese governments. Climbing Everest and Treks to Everest Base Camp are becoming increasingly popular on both the north and south sides of the mountain. On the north side, a Buddhist monastery is one of two whose locations were selected specifically to allow religious contemplation of the great peak. The other side is the Thyangboche Monastery in Nepal. The once active Rongbuk monastery in Tibet has required much rejuvenation from the destruction it experienced following China’s invasion of Tibet.

KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION

Kanchenjunga (8,586) is the third highest mountain in the world. From 1838 until 1839 was believed to be the highest. It is an enormous mountain-mass and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000-meter peaks of the Himalaya.
Though not successfully climbed until 1955, it was first attempted in 1905, but four members of that international party were killed in an avalanche. As inspiring as Kanchenjunga’s beauty is at least the first three parties to ascend the mountain never attempted the final few feet to the summit out of voluntary respect or those who considered the summit sacred. The successful British expedition of 1955 set the standard by stopping a few feet short of the actual summit, in honor of the local religion.

LHOTSE EXPEDITION

Lhotse (8,516) is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000 meters. Lhotse is sometimes mistakenly identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was turned to climbing Lhotse until after Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse was first climbed in 1956 by two Swiss, fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss.
In addition to the main summit, there are two subsidiary peaks, Lhotse Shar, which is immediately east of the main summit, and Nuptse, a high peak on the mountain’s west ridge.

MAKALU EXPEDITION

Makalu (8,463) is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It is an isolated peak, located just 14 miles east of Mount Everest. Its size alone is impressive, but its structure, that of a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, make this mountain all the more spectacular.
It has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. Previously, it had been admired and studied by several Everest parties, but like so many other giants in Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest had been attained in 1954. A French group first climbed Makalu in year 1955.
Chomo Lonzo (25,650 ft.) is a subsidiary peak of Makalu, rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle.

CHO OYU EXPEDITION

Cho Oyu (8,201) is the sixth highest mountain in the world, located a short distance to the west from Everest and Lhotse (the fourth highest) in the Khumbu region of Eastern Nepal along the Tibetan border. Its towering peak stands with Everest well above the surrounding mountains. It became a familiar landmark to climbers ascending Everest’s north face. Just west of Cho Oyu is the Nangpa La, a 19,000-foot glacier pass, and the main trade route between the khumbu Sherpas and Tibet. Cho Oyu’s proximity to the Nangpa la has earned it the distinction among some climbers as being the easiest 8,000 meter peak. It was the third such peak climbed, and the first climbed in autumn by two Australian.

DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION

Dhaulagiri (8,167), whose name means White Mountain, is the seventh highest mountain in the world. It is an enormous Himalayan massif, located in north central Nepal. After its discovery by the western world in 1808, it replaced Ecuador’s Chimborazo (20,561 ft.) as the postulated highest mountain in the world. It maintained this standing for nearly 30 years, until the discovery of Kanchenjunga, which was then falsely believed to be the world’s highest mountain.
Dhaulagiri’s crest stretches for thirty miles, lending structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls. Along the main crest, several pyramid-shaped peaks rise. Four of these summits, numbered form east to west, rise above 25,000 feet.
In 1960, the Swiss/Australian expedition who first reached the summit did so despite their airplane having crashed during the approach. This was the first Himalayan climb supported by an airplane, although the plane was subsequently abandoned on the mountain.

MANASLU EXPEDITION

Manaslu (8, 163) is the high peak of the Gorkha massif, and is the eight highest mountains in the world. It is located about 40 miles east of Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain. The mountains long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and it culminates in a peak that towers steeply above its surroundings landscape, and is dominant features when seen from afar. The name Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa and can be roughly translated as mountain of the spirit. An all-female Japanese expedition successfully ascended to the summit, thereby becoming the first women to climb an 8,000-meter peak.

ANNAPURNA EXPEDITION

Annapurna (8,091) is an enormous Himalayan massif, the tenth highest mountain in the world. In 1950, it became the first 8,000 meter mountain to be successfully climbed. It is located east of great gorge cut through the Himalaya by the Kali Gandaki River. The mountain has the glaciers on its western and north western slopes, which drain into this gorge.
Annapurna is a Sanskrit name that can be translated as goddess of harvests or more simply the provider. Of Annapurna’s many highs peaks, five are labeled using some variations of the name Annapurna. Of these, the two highest (Annapurna I and II), stand like bookends at the western and eastern ends of the massif.

* Source : – http://www.guidenepal.com/

** Previous story : – Trekking

- Nepal Trekking : GOKYO RI – CHOLA PASS – EVEREST BC TREK.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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En nuestra escapadita por Nepal, nos animamos junto a No Entiendo a un trekking de 9 días hacia el Campamento Base del Annapurna (4130 metros sobre el nivel del mar). Si bien el canguro no paró de quejarse y de decir que tenía la bolsa llena de tanto caminar desde el amanecer hasta el atardecer, saltó de la alegría cuando llegamos a nuestro destino. Además, tuvo el placer de conocer la nieve, algo que nunca había hecho. A pesar de que decía que “se re cagaba de frío con esa mierda de hielo que cae del cielo”, no se le podía borrar la sonrisa de la cara.

Listo, disfrutamos de la naturaleza, cumplimos. Ya es hora de encaminarnos hacia el sur de la India para buscar lo que venimos a buscar. Esperamos volver a escribirles pronto.

“Tomaz Humar, sloveno, uno dei più forti scalatori del mondo, è morto sul Langtang Lirung”. Titola così oggi il Corriere della Sera, raccontando di un’altra illustre vittima dell’Himalaya. Quello che mi colpisce è che questo scalatore provetto saliva tutto solo. Ora, io non sono certo un montanaro “pro”, e di sicuro non mi sognerei mai di salire in solitaria. Tuttavia, l’esperienza di Humar insegna che uno scivolone, mentale o fisico che sia, capita anche ai migliori. Se avete intenzione di salire, specie oltre i 3000 metri ed in inverno, mi sento di dire senza paura di smentite che non basta essere esperti: portatevi una guida, meglio se sherpa o di altre tribù provenienti dalla zona montana.

Tekst poniżej przedstawiony, “Szczelina – historia Piotra Morawskiego” to obszerne fragmenty artykułu “Śmierć człowieka gór”, który opublikowano na portalu www.sports.pl.

Autor : Marek Wawrzynowski.

Szczelina – historia Piotra Morawskiego
Czy ja wyglądam na wdowę? – pyta Olga Morawska. Na spotkanie przyszła z 2-letnim synem Gustawem. Starszy o 2 lata Ignacy pojechał gdzieś z wujkiem. Olga zapewnia, że tak jest lepiej, bo gdyby byli obaj, „roznieśliby knajpę na strzępy”. A tak skończyło się na jednej zbitej solniczce i jednej zaginionej. Odnalazła się kilka dni później w domu.

Chłopcy powoli zaczynają rozumieć, co to znaczy, że tata poszedł do nieba. Coraz częściej o nim rozmawiają. Gdy zapytali po raz pierwszy, z trudem powstrzymała szloch.

Zadzwonię do ciebie jutro…
- Gardło się ścisnęło. Łzy napłynęły do oczu… ale pomyślałam sobie, że jak ja zacznę płakać, to oni przestaną pytać o Piotrka. A mnie zależy, żeby pamiętali, żebyśmy o tym mówili. Zacisnęłam zęby i odpowiedziałam – opowiada Olga. Chłopcy nabrali śmiałości. Ignacy zapytał ostatnio, czy w niebie tata chodzi w czapce. Odpowiedziała, że oczywiście, przecież chłopaki zawsze chodzą w czapkach.

- Ignacy często opowiada jakieś historie, przypomina sobie, co robił z tatą. Zawsze to są prawdziwe historie, ma świetną pamięć. „A pamiętasz mamo, jak wracaliśmy z tatą z przedszkola i ciebie spotkaliśmy?”, „A pamiętasz, jak tata przywiózł naszego kota Marmurkę?” – cytuje Olga.

Jej samej pogodzenie się ze śmiercią Piotra nie przyszło łatwo. Przez kilka dni nie wierzyła. Nawet gdy było to wydarzenie dnia w telewizji… Nie przekonał jej nawet telefon z kondolencjami z Kancelarii Prezydenta. Gdy leciała do Nepalu, była przekonana, że zastanie go na lotnisku.

- Oglądałam film o Wandzie Rutkiewicz. Jej matka myśli, że córka jest gdzieś w klasztorze w Himalajach. Pomyślałam sobie wtedy: „No tak, to stara kobieta”. I teraz to spotkało mnie… – mówi.
Gdy wylądowała na lotnisku w Katmandu, szukała wzrokiem Piotra. Nie było go. Naprzeciwko wyszedł tylko Peter Hamor, jego partner.
- Wtedy zrozumiałam, że Piotr naprawdę nie żyje. Chciałam umrzeć na tym lotnisku – mówi.

„Kochanie, zadzwonię do ciebie jutro z bazy, może się uda pogadać dłużej” – to był ostatni sms, jakiego wysłał.

Poznali się na imprezie w podwarszawskich Łomiankach. Przypadli sobie do gustu być może dlatego, że mieli wspólną pasję. Uwielbiali podróże. Na pierwszą wspólną wyprawę pojechali do Karpacza. Autostopem. W Karkonoszach nie dopisywała pogoda, dlatego spakowali plecaki i ruszyli dalej, trochę na oślep. Wylądowali… w Barcelonie. Piotr jechał z uczelni na konferencję, później zostawał i zwiedzali. Grecja, Dania, wyprawa stopem z Pekinu do Szanghaju, na pół roku na stypendium do Durbanu. Oświadczył się na Nord Capie.

Piotr w latach 90. chodził trochę po Tatrach, ale potem zajęła go całkowicie kariera naukowa. Wrócił w góry dzięki żonie. – Czytałam te wszystkie książki o Wandzie Rutkiewicz, o Zawadzie, chodziłam na spotkania z wielkimi alpinistami, Leszkiem Cichym czy Krzysztofem Wielickim… zaczęłam mu mówić: „Skoro tak ciągle myślisz o tych górach, to dlaczego do tego nie wrócisz?”.

100 dolarów nie chodzi piechotą
Dwa miesiące przed ślubem, z ciekawości, poszedł na spotkanie Klubu Wysokogórskiego Warszawa. Planowano wyjazd na siedmiotysięczny Chan Tengri. Ustalano szczegóły transportu z bazy wojskowej Majda Adyr do bazy, z której zamierzano przypuścić atak. W dyskusję włączył się chłopak z drugiej strony sali. Zapytał, czy zamiast lecieć do bazy helikopterem, nie lepiej przejść się na piechotę. Dla rozruszania kości. Różnica jest taka, że śmigłowcem leci się 20 minut, a na piechotę idzie 4 dni. Ale idąc, nie potrzebujesz aklimatyzacji… Wszyscy spojrzeli z politowaniem. Bez przesady, to żaden argument, żeby nie dopłacić tych 100 dolarów za śmigłowiec.

- To co, nikt się nie pisze? – zapytał chłopak. Piotrek podniósł rękę. Poszli we dwóch. Tak spotkał się z Marcinem Kaczkanem, z którym pracował na Politechnice Warszawskiej. Ich pokoje dzieli 100 metrów, a jednak nigdy wcześniej o sobie nie słyszeli. Podczas wędrówki trochę się poznali. Narzucili ostre tempo, zamiast czterech dni szli trzy.

- Gdy wchodzisz coraz wyżej, objawiają się coraz to nowe choroby. A to brzuch boli, a to głowa… a Piotrek miał taką postawę, że poboli i przestanie. Iść trzeba. To nas łączyło – opowiada Marcin. Na Chan Tengri weszli jako jedyni z całej wyprawy.

Rok później Piotr zderzył się z pierwszą przeszkodą nie do przejścia. Poległ na Piku Pobiedy. – Myślałem, że się zniechęci. W pewnym momencie był zrezygnowany. Bardzo szybko przeszedł w góry wysokie, nie wiedział, że czasami tak jest, że łapiesz kryzysy. Wtedy trzeba je przeczekać – mówi Marcin, który na szczyt wszedł samotnie.

Wakacje na K2
Piotr nie zrezygnował ze wspinania. Któregoś dnia dostali maila od Artura Paszczaka, szefa warszawskiego klubu: „Cześć chłopaki, czy nie mielibyście ochoty spędzić trzymiesięcznych wakacji w temperaturze minus 40?”. Wiadomość była zatytułowana K2. Wyprawę organizował sam Krzysztof Wielicki. Piotrek bardzo chciał jechać, ale bał się powiedzieć żonie. Odpisał: „Sorry, Paszczu, ale Olga i uczelnia”. Rzucił jej jakoś mimochodem, że była fajna oferta, ale z niej zrezygnował. Nie mogła uwierzyć…

- Powiedziałam mu, że jeśli teraz tego nie wykorzysta, to nigdy już takiej szansy nie będzie. Mówiłam do kumpli: „Zobaczcie, miał taką propozycję i odmówił”. Zadzwonił do Krzyśka Wielickiego, zapytać, czy to jeszcze aktualne. Pojechał – wspomina Olga.

Szli z Marcinem w karawanie jako nowicjusze. Myśleli, że będą czyścić buty i nosić plecaki. Okazało się, że są najmocniejsi. Piotrek, Marcin i Kazach Denis Urubko, jeden z najlepszych w swoim fachu. Doszli na wysokość 7630 metrów, wyżej niż ktokolwiek przed nimi. Piotrek przypłacił to utratą palca u nogi. Przez jakiś czas nosił go jako wisiorek.

W drodze powrotnej do bazy Marcin odwrócił się i zobaczył, że ktoś zbliża się do niego ze sporą prędkością. Sylwetka za chwilę stała się wyraźniejsza, to nadbiegał Piotr. Człowiek biegnący na tej wysokości to dość niecodzienny widok… Zapytał: „Czemu biegniesz?” Piotr odparł: „Jeszcze przez godzinę będzie działał środek przeciwbólowy. Muszę w tym czasie zrobić jak największy dystans”. Pobiegli razem.

Piotr zdobył uznanie. Zaczęto wymieniać go wśród obiecujących alpinistów. Drogę do wielkiej kariery utorowało pierwsze zimowe wejście na Sziszapangmę, z Włochem Simone Moro. Pierwsza próba była nieudana. Podczas drugiej przyszła chwila zwątpienia. Kilka dni przed wylotem do Katmandu nadeszła informacja, że góra padła zimą. Uprzedził ich Francuz Jean Claude Lafaille. Za chwilę kolejna wiadomość. Zrobił to jednak poza sezonem i wejście nie zostało zaliczone jako zimowe. Jeśli wejdą, będą pierwsi, przejdą do historii himalaizmu.

Z Simone Moro, jednym z najlepszych obecnie himalaistów świata, porozumiewaliśmy się za pośrednictwem internetu. Znak czasów.
- Nigdy nie było takiej sytuacji, żeby jeden musiał na drugiego czekać. Podczas ataku szczytowego byliśmy naprawdę szybcy. Mimo przeraźliwego wiatru i zimna. Szybki w tych warunkach to znaczy, że możesz zrobić 30-40 kroków bez odpoczynku. To nie był facet, który marudził: „Jestem zmęczony, źle się czuję, jestem głodny, chcę do domu” – napisał nam Simone.

Wejście na Sziszapangmę zimą zrobiło z Morawskiego gwiazdę świata himalaistycznego. Piotr Pustelnik, słynny zdobywca 13 ośmiotysięczników, zaprosił go na wyprawę na Annapurnę w 2005 roku. Pustelnik to w świecie himalaistów legenda. Na co dzień pracownik BRE Banku. Pracuje na 13. piętrze jednego z łódzkich wieżowców. Ma widok na kominy. Kilka z nich malował, żeby zdobyć fundusze na wyprawy.

Trafiony piorunem
Annapurna to przekleństwo Pustelnika, tylko jej brakuje mu do kompletu czternastu ośmiotysięczników. Pierwsza wspólna wyprawa w 2005 roku nie przyniosła powodzenia. Zaskoczyła ich pogoda. Podczas drugiej od szczytu głównego dzieliło ich niecałe 100 metrów. Nie weszli. Po drodze natknęli się na chińskiego wspinacza, który doznał ślepoty śnieżnej. Na tej wysokości, bez pomocy, był już właściwie martwy. Zrezygnowali z finiszu, by sprowadzić Chińczyka do bazy.

- Wtedy był w życiowej formie. Miałem świadomość, że jestem dla niego za słaby. Właściwie moja rola skończyła się, gdy skojarzyłem go z Hamorem. Idealnie do siebie pasowali – przyznaje Pustelnik.

Później wszystko przychodziło Piotrowi łatwo, jakby od niechcenia. W 2006 roku z Peterem Hamorem zdobył Czo Oju, podczas tej samej wyprawy samotnie wszedł na Broad Peak. Później z Hamorem i jego rodakiem Dodo Kopoldem wspiął się na Nanga Parbat. I znowu z Hamorem zrobił w fantastycznym stylu trawers Gaszerbrumów (I i II), co dało mu kolejne dwa ośmiotysięczniki do kolekcji i uznanie na całym świecie. Simone Moro uważa, że był coraz bliżej ścisłej światowej czołówki.

- Miał niezwykłą motywację, by spełnić swoje marzenia, stać się sławnym, mieć lepsze życie – uważa Włoch. Ojciec Morawskiego, również naukowiec, nadużywał alkoholu, to nie była bogata rodzina. Piotr bał się o przyszłość swoją i dzieci, lękał się, że pójdzie w ślady ojca. To była jego dodatkowa motywacja. Codzienne treningi na ściance wspinaczkowej, jazda na rowerze, w końcu bieganie… nie jakieś tam, ale bieganie maratonów. Był w życiowej formie.

Podczas kolejnej wyprawy na Annapurnę musieli zrezygnować z powodu załamania pogody. Piotrek napisał żonie sms-a. „Cześć, jesteśmy na 7 tysiącach metrów, właśnie dostałem piorunem”. Kilka godzin wcześniej nie było im do śmiechu. W pewnym momencie znaleźli się w samym środku burzy. Wtedy trzeba zejść na dół, bo błyskawice uderzają zawsze w najwyższy punkt. Pioruny uderzając w powierzchnię, rozpryskiwały się i trafiały odłamkami w Morawskiego, Hamora i Pustelnika.

Wydawało mu się, że jest nieśmiertelny
- To cholernie bolesne. Nie zabija, ale jeśli stracisz równowagę, już po tobie. Szczególnie na Annapurnie, gdzie po jednej stronie grani jest bardzo stromo – mówi Pustelnik. Bali się o życie. Odetchnęli dopiero po 6 godzinach marszu.

To była wyprawa absolutnie niezwykła. Piotr zapamiętał z niej też najbardziej dziwaczne ze swoich spotkań w Himalajach. W pamiętnikach pisał: „Siedzę na grani i patrzę na człowieka, który siedzi obok mnie. Idzie ze mną od samego wierzchołka. Wiem, że go nie powinno tutaj być. Nie powinno być nikogo oprócz mnie. Nie podejdę, bo jest zbyt daleko, a ja jestem zmęczony. Nie ma go tak naprawdę. Wstaję. On też. Schodzimy razem. Kiedy zmęczony wpełzam do namiotu, on zostaje na zewnątrz. Gotuję śnieg na wodę, chwilowo o nim zapominam. Kiedy się wychylam z namiotu, nikogo nie ma”. Później wyglądał czasem tej zjawy na ławce w warszawskim parku.

Na Annapurnie nie udało się. To już trzecie podejście. Trudno. Uda się następnym razem. Simone Moro uważa, że to była kwestia czasu.

- Miał wielkie plany. Chciał wejść na wszystkie ośmiotysięczniki, ale po swojemu, nowymi trasami, trawersami. Jedyne, o co się martwił, to finanse – pisze Simone.

Żeby wyjechać na Dhaulagiri i Manaslu Morawski zapożyczył się u rodziny i znajomych. Będzie sukces, to pieniądze się zwrócą. Proste.

Urszula Domańska-Żelazna, promotor Piotra, jak zwykle przyrządziła mały poczęstunek. Zawsze robiła to przed jego wyprawami w góry. Na Politechnice Warszawskiej wszyscy wiedzieli, który pokój należy do Piotra. Cały wyklejony plakatami i pamiątkami z wypraw, ozdobiony ramami od rowerów, starymi siodełkami. Ze względu na rodzaj wykonywanej pracy na Politechnice nazywali go „wysokociśnieniowcem”. Jego praca miała wykorzystanie przy produkcji kosmetyków. Na uczelni wspierali go i pasjonowali się jego wyprawami, chociaż czasem narzekali, że za bardzo zaniedbuje pracę naukową. Ale Piotr nie wiązał z karierą naukową przyszłości. – Chciał żyć z robienia zdjęć i z prelekcji. Związać swoje życie z górami – mówi Pustelnik.

Zdjęcia to była jego pasja. Na każdą wyprawę zabierał aparat, zeszyt i długopis. Wszystko notował. Prowadził dziennik. Sam siebie nazywał grafomanem. Wchłaniał niezwykle szybko wiedzę. Na jednej z wypraw w dwa dni przeczytał „Wahadło Foucaulta” Umberto Eco. Tyle samo zajęło mu przeczytanie „Historii Europy” Normana Daviesa. Wrzucał na uszy słuchawki, włączał „Pink Floyd”, „Led Zeppelin” albo jakąś elektroniczną muzykę i czytał. Był warszawiakiem i kochał stolicę, wręcz się nią pasjonował. Wolny czas spędzał, odkrywając nowe miejsca w swoim mieście, by później pokazać je znajomym.

Dhaulagiri. Właściwie żadne wielkie wyzwanie dla kogoś takiego jak Morawski. Razem z Hamorem chcieli tę górę zdobyć niejako przy okazji. Może nawet ją zlekceważyli…

- Góra jak każda inna, nie chciałbym umniejszać jej znaczenia, ale mieliśmy tu się tylko przygotować do wyprawy na Manaslu – mówi Hamor. Spotykamy się w Popradzie, w hotelu o tej samej nazwie. Niedaleko dworca autobusowego. Pustelnik mówi, że Peter i Piotr byli od siebie niemal uzależnieni. Stworzyli doskonały duet.

Tego dnia schodzili z drugiego obozu do bazy. Biegli po płaskim odcinku, który przypomina gigantyczne boisko piłkarskie. Hamor na chwilę się pochylił. Gdy podniósł głowę, Piotra już nie było. „No tak, szczelina” – pomyślał.

Każdy himalaista kilka razy w życiu wpada w szczelinę. Nic specjalnego. Piotr wpadł w taką z gatunku najgorszych. Zabójczy 25-metrowy lejek. Zakleszczył się. Znalazł się między dwiema bryłami lodu. Hamor wezwał pomoc i zjechał do niego. Czas uciekał. W pewnym momencie dotarło do niego, że wygląda to dramatycznie. W tych warunkach najlepsi himalaiści umierają po godzinie z wyziębienia organizmu. Piotr był uwięziony już trzecią… Wytrzymał kilkakrotnie dłużej niż w tych warunkach mógłby wytrzymać przeciętny człowiek.

- Nie mogłem nic zrobić, tylko pilnować, żeby nie stracił świadomości. Gadaliśmy. To była taka rwana rozmowa, „Trzymaj się, dasz radę, musisz wytrzymać”. Nie pozwoliłem mu się żegnać. To by oznaczało, że się poddał – mówi. Po trzech godzinach z bazy dotarła ekipa. Wyciągnęli Piotra. Hamor wjechał po kilku minutach na górę i zobaczył, że lekarz płacze… Zrozumiał, że to koniec.

- Piotr był jak tur, torował drogę, niezwykle silny – mówi Hamor. W starciu z górami nawet ten, wydawałoby się nadczłowiek, musiał jednak polec. Okrutne jest to, że stało się to w tak banalnych okolicznościach. Na tym prostym, ale jednak niezwykle podstępnym terenie zlekceważył zasady bezpieczeństwa. Jakby zapomniał, że chodzenie po górach to coś zupełnie innego niż zwykłe przejście przez pasy. Olga mówi: „Wydawało mu się, że jest nieśmiertelny”. W końcu nigdy nic poważnego mu się nie stało. Jeśli nie liczyć odmrożonego palca, właściwie nie miał choćby najmniejszego wypadku.

Olga Morawska powoli dochodzi do siebie. Właśnie wróciła z Nepalu. Pod Dhaulagiri postawiła pamiątkowy czorten i wmurowała tablicę. Jest pełna zapału. Przygotowuje się do napisania książki o Piotrku. Chce wykorzystać jego zapiski. Rozmawia też w sprawie filmu dokumentalnego.

* Źródło : – Śmierć człowieka gór

* strona domowa himalaisty : – http://www.piotrmorawski.com/

** Zobacz też :

- Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

- Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri – sprawozdanie z wypadku. POMÓŻMY RODZINIE PIOTRA.

- Piotr Morawski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

*** posty o innych wyprawach kliknij : Piotr Morawski

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

are viv + i?
“namaste…“
nama-stah,
ma-ma-coo-sa from nepal!

definitely a dream destination (more so for vivien + her love for outdoor adventure than i). the sights were spectacular and awe-inspiring… how could one look at it all and not acknowledge the Creator?

the places:

• kathmandu (1400m/4593ft)
• pokhara (910m/2986ft) – a short 25min flight from kathmandu.
• phedi (950m/3116ft) – starting point of our 6-day trek with a gazillion stone steps and insane incline grade!
  we were blessed to have our guide: manoj + our porter: kumar. over the journey they became more like family! while we had our hiking boots, performance gear attire, trekking poles and only carrying day packs… kumar wore nike tennis shoes, jeans, a button-up shirt, used NO poles and carried our 35lb. backpack through some sick terrain. he saved our lives (and our backs… literally).
  ** note: am thankful for international porter protection group (i.p.p.g.) and hope they continue to look out/care for the porters. and in the future, we hope trekkers will have enough porters for the gear they bring as to not overload/work and pose potential harm to them!
• tolka (1790m/5872ft) – first night’s stay. having no electricity at this teahouse, viv + i, ended up going to sleep at 7pm! one of the most restful nights of sleep i ever had! only took going to nepal to find it. who would’ve thunk it?
• ghandruk (2020m/6627ft) – imagine having this view while eating breakfast!
  

  momo having mint tea + traditional chapati bread

• tadapani (2520m/8268ft) - took this shot right outside the teahouse we stayed at on my panasonic gh-1. i stayed as motionless as humanly possible for about 40 seconds to capture this shot. but after seeing the picture, i think it was worth it! stunning to see: the starry night and (from l. to r.) annapurna south (7219m/23684ft), hiunchuli (6441m/21132ft), gangapurna (7455m/24457ft), annapurna III (7555m/24786ft) and machapuchare (6993m/22943ft) – a.k.a. “fish tail peak” so clearly. nice being away from all of the city lights now and then…
  

  annapurna range (l. to. r. annapurna south, hiunchuli, gangapurna, annapurna iii + machapuchare) + starry night

• ghorepani (2850m/9350ft)
• poon hill (3210m/10,531ft)
  - start hiking @ 4:30am for a sight that literally takes your breath away (from the beauty as well as the cold weather + uphill climb). from poon hill you will witness an unobstructed view of sunrise over the high himalayas.
  

  sunrise @ poon hill

  

  "subha bihanie" from poon hill... love, g+v

  

  one happy family (l. to r. - kumar, momo, v, g and manoj)

• tatopani (1220m/4002ft) – means “hot water” in nepali.
  - after spending days climbing upwards, i figured a steep descent of almost 2000m through rhododendron and magnolia forests would be a welcomed relief. but trekking for 8+ grueling hours passing smaller/secluded villages, secondary schools, long/scary bridges and a pretty severe landslide, i concluded that climbing downhill (as well as uphill) = still “sucks“… thankfully the hot water spring helped all our aching leg muscles!  :)
  

  viv loves height... especially this scary suspension bridge!

trekking for days + aching legs + natural hot springs = ahhhhhhh....

• beni (820m/2690ft) – took an almost 2 hour jeep ride averaging 5mph through the most bumpy, dusty dirt path you can ever imagine. then we switched into a taxi to continue on for about 4+ hours to pokhara. i really contemplated getting out and hiking b/c i couldn’t take the motion sickness + diesel/exhaust poisoning.  :(
• back to -> pokhara
• back to -> kathmanda
• back to home #2 -> hong kong…

currently, suffering from some traveller’s diarrhea. definitely = NO FUN.
and according to this article, looks like we left nepal just in the nick of time (…maoist rebels plan to shutdown tribhuvan airport and all hghways!)

anyway, gonna take a LONG, hot shower and rest/recover before our next assignment, stay tuned…

for more reading:
- where in the world… (part 1)

Here’s a few photos from Nepal that aren’t part of the leprosy documentary I did out there.

The portraits above and below were taken in Loharpatti, about an hours drive from the leprosy hospital I stayed at.

I like this photo in the neighbourhood of where I stayed. I guess it’s middle class Kathmandu; cheap (relatively to the west) but large houses, graffiti-covered walls and everyone dressed in a typically western style.

This street, near Patan square is more typical of the old Kathmandu.

These photos (above and below) were taken in the backstreets of the Patan area. This market was clearly designed for resident Nepali’s and not tourists and everyone seemed slightly bemused to see me taking such an interest.

This shot was taken from a taxi. We passed several of these ‘buses’ filled to the brim with students on their way to support the various student political parties. Student politics is taken very seriously in Nepal, and in the votes leading up to the Student Union presidential elections there were a lot of violent clashes between the differing student bodies. In the past this has been fatal.

This was also taken from a taxi. Navigating traffic in Kathmandu is a fine art, best done on motorcycle it seems.

This was taken near the Pashupatinath Hindu temple. This area where the woman was appeared to be some sort of care home for sick, disabled or elderly hindu’s.

This is one of the many rooftop cafes overlooking the Bodhnath temple, one of the holiest buddhist spots in Nepal. It is one of Kathmandu’s prime tourist destinations.

There are hundreds of small temples and shrines hidden among the streets of the ancient parts of Kathmandu.

I bought a couple of sling bags from this vendor near the Thamil area of Kathmandu. They make a lot of them out of old rice bags.

I wish I’d done more shots like these. At about 10pm the mains electricity in central Kathmandu is cut out leaving only those with generators and motorbikes to light the streets. Because of the low light I was forced to use long exposures, but the effect is eery and wonderful I think. When I see it I think of the sound of generators everywhere with various motorbike and car horns singing in the ear.

After Lalgadh leprosy hospital I went to Pokhara for three weeks to do a 10 day trek to the Annapurna sanctuary. You often come across shrines like this covered in prayer flags.

On these treks you often pass tourists that have all the latest gear; sticks, mountaineering gloves and extreme lightweight clothes. Yet these are the guys that carry up to 70kilos on their back, having a smoke while their clients stop to catch their breath. One group of trekkers I met said they’d passed a porter carrying a double LG fridge on his back.

This was taken in the Gupteshwor Cave at the end of Devi’s Falls in Pokhara. Hindu’s come here to wash in the water.

Fewa Taal, the huge lake by Pokhara narrows into the Seti gorge. Walking along it I came across these three boys playing in the gardens behind the houses. They immediately gathered for a photo.

This was taken by lakeside, the tourist hotspot of Pokhara. This son of one of the boaters was having fun moving between the boats.

Himalaya is folding but already action is announced for next spring with focus on Annapurna. Last week brought interviews with Ryan Waters and Cecilie Skog. In the pipe: a HumanEdgeTech Power Special coming up.

And more kids are joining the “Baptized by fire” tune. Jessica Watson, 16, left Sydney on October 18 to sail non-stop around the world.

Piantoni’s remains recovered Yuri Parimbelli, Adriano Greco and Marco Astori, assisted by Spanish Edurne Pasaban, Ferrán Latorre, Asier Izaguirre, two Sherpa and Swiss Jean Troillet retrieved Roby Piantoni’s remains from a crevasse at the base of Shisha’s south face before the body was carried by porters to the Nepalese border.

Annapurna: Miss Oh calls off Annapurna, for this time Oh Eun-Sun was finally forced back from Annapurna due to high winds. Other Korean climbers on the mountain also turned back. Oh Eun-Sun plans to return to Annapurna, her last 8000+ meters summit, in spring 2010.

Edurne Pasaban mulling a double-header “I’m definitely going to Annapurna in spring, but I’m also considering another attempt (my fifth) on Shisha during the same season,” Edurne stated at a press conference.

Annapurna 2010 Piotr Pustelnik is headed back to Annapurna in his fifth attempt to summit his 14th 8000er. Another Annapurna veteran, 11, 8000er summiteer Serguey Bogomolov will be part of Piotr’s team. Also Portuguese Joao Garcia will try to complete his 14×8000er projects on Annapurna next spring and Spaniard Carlos Pauner will be there as well.

ExWeb interview with Ryan Waters In less than a month’s time Ryan Waters of Boulder, Colorado, and Norwegian Cecilie Skog will be skiing 1300 km unassisted, unsupported from Berkner Island to the South Pole, and weather and time permitting, go beyond the Pole. Coming from 8000-meter mountains, in an interview with ExWeb Ryan told Correne Coetzer why the poles and why he and Cecilie make a good team.

ExWeb interview with Cecilie Skog In August last year Cecilie lost her husband, Rolf Bae, while they were climbing K2. “The last 15 months have been very hard,” Cecilie said to ExWeb’s Correne Coetzer. “Rolf is gone. But not my dreams and I hold on to those dreams really tight. I still dream about sleeping in tents, journeys, blowing wind, and moments that make me feel really alive. I am really glad that I am going to have a white Christmas this year.”

Japan roundup: Nobukazu Kuriki’s solo Everest climb ended at about 7,700m. Yasushi Yamanoi called off Kula Kangri’s north face due to high avalanche risk but reached 6,500m on Karjan peak. Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi are in Tibet, hoping to climb a new route on Gauri Shankar’s east face (7134m).

Nives Meroi sounds off The usually quiet Nives Meroi has put up a new personal website with general information and multimedia files about her expeditions, but also selected articles about climbing issues.

* Nives Meroi – new personal website

Korean Alpine News – now in English The Korean Alpine Federation has published the first English version of the “Korean Alpine News” hoping to promote Korean climbers and their achievements among the international climbing community with complete, accurate information.

Himalaya wrap-up: Nepal 7000ers SummitClimb are attempting Baruntse, and Peak Freaks are advancing on Pumori South Ridge. “We used to do training on Ama Dablam but it doesn’t sit well with us anymore,” said Tim Rippel. Other attempts involve the Anthamatten brothers on Jasemba (7350 m), Robert Jasper for Pumori, Ama Dablam and Cholatse, and several more teams on Ama Dablam.

Patagonia Ice Cap update Wading through icy water and crawling through dense vegetation, Olaf Rieck and Georg Sichelschmidt carried their gear to Jorge Montt Glacier and said they could not have imagined how difficult it would be.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

(MountEverest.net) “Hi, It’s me again, Piotr Pustelnik. I must have some serious mental illness… I want to go back to Annapurna next spring.”

Piortr’s email to ExWeb proves that strong hearts (or insanity ) prevail over defeat and lost friends.

A tribute to Piotr Morawski

The amazing “Three Peters” (Pustelik, Hamor and Morawski) suffered a fatal blow this spring when Piotr Morawski fell to his death in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri. “I still get emotional thinking about him and that stupid accident,” Piotr told ExplorersWeb. “However, Peter Hamor and I must get out of the shadow after Piotrek’s death. Maybe this trip should be a tribute to him.”

This marks Piort’s fifth attempt to summit his 14th 8000er, against all hardship and several “promises” of retirement. “I’m gathering a team of friends and old companions,” Pustelnik said about his upcoming attempt. Seasoned Annapurna veteran and 11, 8000er summiteer Serguey Bogomolov from Russia is one. Bogomolov tried Anna latest in 2008; suffered frostbite and left for home, but returned to try and rescue Iñaki Ochoa de Olza.

All-star BC

Besides Piotr, others who will try to complete their 14×8000er projects on Annaurna next spring are Portuguese Joao Garcia, Korean Oh Eun-Sun and possibly Spanish Edurne Pasaban.

Spaniard Carlos Pauner has set sights on Annapurna as well. “Enough of bad luck and ‘easy’ 8000ers,” he said after a failed Shisha Pangma some weeks ago. “Next time I’ll go for the hardest – that is, Annapurna in spring 2010!”

A spring mountain

“Annapurna is a spring peak; chances of success are greatest before the monsoon leaves the mountain overloaded with snow in fall,” Edurne said in a press conference yesterday. The number of strong climbers working together should help as well.

Annapurna is the most deadly of the 8000ers. The overall fatality rate according to 2004 data was 41%, or four and a half times that of Everest’s overall fatality rate of 9%.

No one summited Annapurna this past spring. Elisabeth Revol and Martin Minarik reached the Eastern summit but Czech Minarik perished on descent. Russian Valery Babanov was forced to abort his plans to attempt a new route due to bad conditions.

Ed note: Still Crazy is a 1998 comedy film about a fictional 1970s rock band named “Strange Fruit”, who, after being split up for several decades, are convinced to get back together to perform at a reunion of the same concert venue where they played their last gig. It was nominated for two Golden Globes in 1999. (Text courtesy Wikipedia).

(The status: July 13, 2008)

The Himalayan Trilogy dream team (Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor) set up a grand plan to span over the next two years: the north-west face of Annapurna; a long G1/G2/G3 traverse; all Broad Peaks; a new route on the east face of Everest; the north face of Manaslu and…the north-west ridge of Rakaposhi.

The “Tres Pedros” organized the plot in the following sections:

2008:
Code name: Himalayan Trilogy – Reactivation

A. Ama Dablam (acclimatization)
1. Annapurna north-west face (Czech route)
2. G1-2-3: A long traverse from G1 to G2 and G3 starting via the original (first ascent) American line to G1, then to Gasherbrum La and on the ridge thru Gasherbrum East to G2 and G3.
3. Broad Peak – the entire summit ridge

2009:
Code name: Himalayan Trilogy – Revolution

A. Kantega or Baruntse (acclimatization)
1. East face of Everest – new route
2. North face of Manaslu – new route by Peter Hamor & Piotr Morawski – “not me, I’m too old ” says Peter.
3. North-west ridge of Rakaposhi

The current status: Ama Dablam; check. Annapurna; close but no cigar. G1-2-3; G1&G2 bagged in a long, very hard Gasherbrum traverse (not the same as a double header) by Piotr Morawski and Peter Hamor – only the second ever of two 8000ers, after Reinhold Messner and Hans Kammerlander; a very difficult conquest that remained unrepeated for 24 years.

* Previous story : –  Himalayan Trilogy II

-   Himalayan Trilogy once again, “Himalayan Triptych Reactivated” : mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition – expedition closed /Version english and polish/

-   Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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More news from the HImalaya, where it appears that we will continue to wait for the first woman to join the ranks of men who have topped out on all of the 8000 meter peaks, as the Korean team on Annapurna, which includes Oh Eun-Sun, have called off their summit bid, and are now preparing to go home.

ExWeb is reporting that the team got as high as Camp 3 over the weekend, but high winds prevented them from going any higher. They have now returned to Base Camp, and are preparing to depart for the season. They will have another go at the mountain in the Spring of 2010, when Miss Oh will try once again to become the first woman to nab all 14 eight-thousanders. Due to it’s high level of danger due to avalanches, Annapurna is not a mountain to attempt during the winter.

Now, the expeditions to the big peaks seem to be over for the season, and the action will heat up on some of the other challenging, but lesser mountains. The Field Touring Alpine Team reached Namche Bazaar over the weekend where they took the usual break and spent some time acclimatizing. They’ll now continue on to Ama Dablam this week.

Meanwhile, the Climb With Us team is now in Pumori Base Camp, and according to their latest updates, they will begin shuttling gear up to ABC tomorrow, where they’ll begin carving their tent platforms and start the early stages of acclimatization. The team had its Puja Ceremony earlier today and now have the blessings of Lama Tashi Stundu to begin their climb.

Watch for more updates later this week as more teams arrive on Pumori and Ama Dablam and begin their climbs as well.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Shisha climbers shocked by Piantoni’s fate, Miss Oh’s Annapurna summit push ahead, Manaslu teams heading home.

-  Tragedy on Shisha Pangma, 2009 climbing season – Roby Piantoni lost on the south face.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Over For Edurne, Miss Oh Ready To Go!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Weather Halts Many Climbs.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Details From Andrew and Ueli.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Manaslu reports – desperate rescue attempt ending sadly, Dream Guides’ summit + sky-ski debrief.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Storm pounding Himalayan 8000ers, Karakoram 2010 sneak preview.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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“I don’t want to die in the ring,” said Edurne Pasaban and then one of her fellow climbers perished, on a peak where media-savvy climbers had successfully claimed false summits only weeks before.

That same day a father in Colorado drummed up a giant rescue operation claiming that his son was trapped in an experimental aircraft. “We did it for the show,” the kid later revealed. “The stunt will probably land them a reality show,” sighed hardened journalists, with the million dollar question now being: is cheating the “new smart” and how will that affect our society?

In other news: most attempts on the 8000ers have been called off. Latest from Miss Oh is that she will make her final decision Monday. Check also ExWeb’s interview with a legendary sailor and a HumanEdgeTech currency report that could save you a barrel of money.

Shisha Pangma south side, Roby Piantoni lost Roby, Marco and Yuri were climbing slightly behind Swiss 10×8000ers summiteer Jean Troillet on the British route Thursday, when a rope section snapped, causing young mountain guide Roby Piantoni to lose footing and fall to his death. In 1981, Roby’s dad was killed in an avalanche in the Peruvian Andes. At the family’s request, climbers on Shisha Pangma have now joined forces to help bring Roby’s remains home to Bergamo, Italy. The climbers will split up in two teams and try to somehow haul the body, lying in a tough spot near the Scott Bivouac, down to BC. Roby will then have to be transported on a yak all the way to the Nepal border as Chinese authorities have banned helicopters in the area.

Shisha Pangma south side, Edurne’s doomed mountain “We are back in BC, spent and pretty bummed,” reported Edurne Pasaban earlier this week. “Our Scott Bivouac camp is trashed, we are short on gear and the wind keeps howling.” The next day, she called the expedition off. With a fourth attempt now failed, Shisha Pangma has once again proved Edurne’s doomed mountain. Pasaban and her team delayed their planned departure however to help retreive Roby’s remains.

Shisha Pangma’s north side: another theft? Upon arriving to Camp I, Rice and his mates discovered that someone had taken down their tent and all their gear. “We are sure that the tents were intentionally removed from Camp I as the shovel that was cached inside the tent was placed neatly in the snow next to the snow bars that previously had secured the tent to the glacier,” Nick said, forced to abort the expedition.

Shisha Pangma north side, Andrew Lock Back in Kathmandu after summiting the peak from its north side, Andrew Lock reflected on his 14×8000er ‘final’; “the experience is all the richer for having worked hard for it,” Andrew said, directing his thank-you speech to Shisha Pangma. ”Sooooo – have I finished with 8000 metre climbing?,” Andrew ended his dispatch. “No. I have at least one more climb I’d like to do next year in the pre-monsoon season (details to be announced later). Stay tuned!”

Annapurna: Miss Oh, “Had I quit my job to climb mountains alone, I wouldn’t have lasted long” Biding her time on Annapurna, Oh Eun-Sun took time to reflect and write an open letter directed mainly to fellow Korean women. “I worked several jobs and set up a noodle-shop to get the money for my dream,” she wrote. “Had I quit my job only to climb mountains, I wouldn’t have lasted long. In my opinion, to realize one’s true wishes it’s important to stay independent – not only financially, but also mentally.”

Annapurna summit push Eun-Sun Oh, Kim Chang-Ho and Suh Sung-Suk (disabled climber Kim Hong-Bin has called the attempt off) planned to reach C3 today, Sunday and there decide whether to continue towards the summit pending conditions (mostly wind speed). Latest is that the female record climber is postponing the decision for tomorrow as weather conditions on the upper part of the mountain are not too great, ExWeb’s Korea correspondent Kyu Dam Lee reported.

Manaslu “It snowed heavily for over six days – over five feet of fresh snow piled up and thus put an end to our summit hopes,” Guillaume Hintzy reported. “We have tried everything. But on a mountain like Manaslu, known for its high risk of avalanches, venturing up in these conditions is reckless. No sherpa would have joined us. Moreover, the return of good weather comes with a strong high altitude wind. The last two teams present in Base Camp – one Mexican, one French – are going home too,” Guillaume added.

Everest Alberto Iñurretegi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo also finally decided to call the expedition off due to the bad weather.

Dhaulagiri “An essential part of my personal climbing gear has been buried under an avalanche,” Rodrigo Fica reported. “We climbed up to C2 on skis – but couldn’t find our tents!” Cala and Ivo chimed in: “There is nothing we can do in the current conditions, but to call it quits.”

Cho Oyu Also on Cho Oyu Adventure Consultants were forced to abort, due to the very high winds.

Cho Oyu: real summit The peak’s vast summit plateau often tempts climbers to stop at its edge; but that’s where the actual crux begins as a long and exhausting march on 8000 meters to the summit more than a thousand meters away. To prove that the highest point has been reached, Cho Oyu summit pictures should show climbers with the Everest-Lhotse group in back.

Makalu: Ueli Steck, “I fought as never before in my life” Back in Switzerland, Ueli Steck’s frostbites are slowly healing and the daily routine is setting in. “I badly need the rest,” the climber said, “Makalu challenged me to the very end.”

Death Valley update: Endless maze of washes brought an end to the path “The ugliest terrain I have ever crossed,” said Todd Carmichael. After a section of soft sand and attacked by killer horse flies when he tried to rest, Todd found himself and his cart-wheel trapped on a vicious carpet of boulders stretching endlessly between 25 foot rock walls in the 100°F desert. “Since crossing Antarctica I’ve wondered if ‘man hauling’ Death Valley was possible,” Todd dispatched. “Today I found my answer. Not for the furnace like heat or the distance or the snakes and such, but for the endless maze of washes blocking the path.”

Patagonia update: Georg Sichelschmidt and Olaf Rieck are ready for the Southern Patagonia Icecap, only once before crossed in its full length. Georg sent word to ExplorersWeb that Olaf had injured a ligament in his foot but the team has arrived in Tortel, packed and ready to leave by boat to the Jorge Montt Glacier. The two Germans hope to ski and kite the glacier to the technical Fitz Roy, and finally leave the Icecap over the Paso del Viento to El Chalten in Argentina.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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(MountEverest.net) “I’m not a bull-fighter; I don’t want to die in the ring.” Packing up, Edurne Pasaban reflected on her decision when minutes later she was stunned about Roby Piantoni, perished on the very same face she had just renounced to climb.

Meanwhile on Annapurna, Korean Oh Eun-Sun prepares to set off on a second summit push in spite of the gale, while Manaslu climbers are throwing the towel in and heading home.

Shisha Pangma – south side

“Winds picked up to nearly 100km/h at altitude today,” Edurne Pasaban told ExplorersWeb earlier today. “A summit bid in such conditions would have been irresponsible, with zero chances of success at an unbearably high risk.”

“I can’t help thinking of bull-fighters – many of them say they want to die in the ring. That’s not me, I want to die old.”

Al filo de lo Imposible’s home team released the sad news about Roby Piantoni’s accident on Shisha’s south side. All climbers in BC are reportedly in deep schock, while Italy’s climbing community mourns the loss of their young climber, who apparently took a fatal fall on an icy section while on a summit push up Bonington’s route early morning today.

“We are headed home, it’s the only sensible option left for us, but we will return,” Pasaban said, adding also that Jean Troillet launched a solo attempt on the face yesterday but was forced down at about 7,000 meters by the tough conditions.

Annapurna

Korean Oh Eun-Sun is gearing up for a second summit push on Annapurna, this weekend. “Should everything go to plan, Miss Oh would attempt the summit on Tuesday or Wednesday,” Black Yak told ExWeb’s correspondent Kyu Dam Lee.

According to reports, Miss Oh and possibly other Korean climbers are currently checking conditions in C1 and C2.

Manaslu

“It snowed heavily for over six days – over five feet of fresh snow piled up and thus put an end to our summit hopes,” Guillaume Hintzy reported. “We have tried everything. But on a mountain like Manaslu, known for its high risk of avalanches, venturing up in these conditions is reckless. No sherpa would have joined us. Moreover, the return of good weather comes with a strong high altitude wind.”

“The last two teams present in Base Camp – one Mexican, one French – are going home too,” Guillaume added.

* Previous story :

-  Tragedy on Shisha Pangma, 2009 climbing season – Roby Piantoni lost on the south face.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Over For Edurne, Miss Oh Ready To Go!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Weather Halts Many Climbs.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Details From Andrew and Ueli.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Manaslu reports – desperate rescue attempt ending sadly, Dream Guides’ summit + sky-ski debrief.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Storm pounding Himalayan 8000ers, Karakoram 2010 sneak preview.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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U. Below is an article in the Tehelka magazine about Paromita Vohra, Under Construction filmmaker, known for having directed films like Q2P, Where’s Sandra, Cosmopolis: A Tale of 2 cities, Work in Progress,,
,Unlimted Girls, Annapurna , A Woman’s Place.

To order copies, write to us at: underconstruction@magiclanternfoundation.org

More updates from the Himalaya today with some news on the two ladies who have been vying for their place in history on the 8000 meter peaks.

We’ll start on Shisha Pangma, where Edurne Pasaban has announced that her expedition is over and that the team is heading home. She reports that weather forecasts are not good, and that they don’t look to improve any time soon, so rather than extend the climbing permit, she’ll leave the mountain without a summit for the fourth time. Edurne is one of the top female mountaineers who has been working very hard the past few years to become the first woman to summit all 14 8000 meter peaks. She currently stands at 12, with Shisha frustrating her once again.

Meanwhile, over on Annapurna, Korean climber Oh Eun-Sun is about to take another crack at that mountain. Miss Oh has 13 of the eight-thousanders down, and is hoping to claim the title as first woman to summit them all. The only thing that stands in her way is Annapurna and all of it’s very substantial challenges. She hopes to begin another push in the next few days, as a weather window seems imminent.

Pumori continues to be a busy mountain, with teams arriving late in the season to give the 23,494 foot mountain a go. The Peak Freaks have announced that they arrived in BC safely yesterday, and are enjoying a rest today, while they organize camp and take a look at the challenges in front of them.

The Climb With Us team is en route to Pumori as well, and have arrived in Namche where they will spend a day acclimatizing. You can read about their progress and the expedition so far on the latest dispatch from team leader Jamie Clarke, which can be found here.

Other teams are closing in on Ama Dablam, with the IMG team having crossed through Namche a few days back and continuing their trek to BC, while the Field Touring Alpine squad has gathered in Kathmandu and are preparing to depart for the Khumbu region in the next few days.

More to come soon I’m sure. Keep an eye on Annapurna for word on the Korean team and Miss Oh’s chance to make history.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Weather Halts Many Climbs.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Details From Andrew and Ueli.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Manaslu reports – desperate rescue attempt ending sadly, Dream Guides’ summit + sky-ski debrief.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Storm pounding Himalayan 8000ers, Karakoram 2010 sneak preview.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

The season appears to be over on a number of big peaks in the Himalaya after high winds and bad weather put an end to a number of climbs over the weekend, sending teams home without reaching the summits of their target mountains.

ExWeb reported yesterday that the Basque Team on Everest have abandoned their attempt on the Hornbein Couloir and are now headed home. The team only had one real shot at the summit along that route, but dangerous avalanches denied them on that occasion, and while they waited for another weather window, it became apparent that it wasn’t going to happen.

Meanwhile, the story was a bit different on Shisha Pangama, where on the North Side, Nicholas Rice reported in that they climbed up to C1 on Saturday, only to find that their tents and other equipment they had stashed there. They suspect that it was a Sherpa team with a Chinese squad who have already left the mountain, but aren’t positive of that fact. They also suspect that Camps 2 and 3 have been raided, and are disheartened by the fact that they not only had to give up on their summit bid, but have lost thousands of dollars of gear in the process. Two months worth of toil down the drain thanks to another selfish team.

On the South Side of Shisha, Edurne Pasaban and her crew attempted a summit bid over the weekend, but found their camps were missing as well, but for a completely different reason. The high winds swept them off the mountain completely, leaving them with little gear to proceed up. The team is back in BC and looking to borrow gear from some of the teams that are preparing to go home.

Over on Cho Oyu, a similar story is told by the Adventure Consultants, who wanted to make their bid starting on Sunday, but were also turned back due to high winds. With their weather window closed, they’re also headed home.

No word from Annapurna as of yet. The Korean team was hoping to wait out the weather and make another go at the summit, hoping to put Miss Oh on top and get her the coveted spot of the first woman to climb all 8000 meter peaks. At this time we don’t know if that is still a reality or if the window is closed there as well.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Details From Andrew and Ueli.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Manaslu reports – desperate rescue attempt ending sadly, Dream Guides’ summit + sky-ski debrief.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Storm pounding Himalayan 8000ers, Karakoram 2010 sneak preview.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Twelve men have walked on the moon. Seventeen had climbed all the world’s 8000ers until a few days back, when Australian Andrew Lock became number 18. His achievement is no silly record game; three climbers died in Himalaya only in the past two weeks.

More summit attempts are underway, most planned to kick-off today. In other news: HumanEdgeTech ran a review of Thuraya XT along with a general 2010 sat phone overview, Todd Carmichael has left for Death Valley, a British team is off for Namibia’s Skeleton Coast, and two 16-year old girls want to become the youngest to sail around the world.

Shisha Pangma: Andrew Lock becomes 14×8000er summiteer! “I DID IT!,” Andrew Lock hollered into cyberspace. “I summitted the true summit of Shisha Pangma at 5.05pm, October 2nd, together with Neil Ward.” Andrew reported a very tough climb via a variation of the Inaki route on the north face and an open bivouac at 7,600m without gear in the storm. Andrew has thus become the 18th man to ever summit the 14 8,000ers, and the first Australian.

Inaki’s Austrian route? Gerfried Göschl told ExWeb that Iñaki’s route was actually opened by Austrians Ewald Putz and Egon Obojes in 1980. Comparing topos of both routes though, it seems Iñaki’s line goes slightly to the right of the Austrian route.

Shisha Pangma – North side Dan Mazur’s SummitClimb – including Bart – arrived safely in BC. Nick Rice, Mario Panzeri, Kinga Baranowska and Horia Colibasanu planned to launch a summit push on Sunday, hoping for a Wednesday/Thursday summit.

Shisha Pangma – South side Climbing a 40º/55º steep couloir on snow and ice with 20kg heavy backpacks, Piantoni’s team reached 6,600m on the British route in a 2-day acclimatization round. Edurne & Co planned to set off from BC on Sunday and shoot for a Wednesday summit.

Annapurna Pushed back by the storm last weekend, next “D-day might be October 15th, weather permitting,” ExWeb’s correspondent in Korea Kyu Dam Lee reported about Miss Oh. Kim Jae-Soo called his expedition off but remains in BC due to bad weather. The climbers now joining hands are leftovers from separate teams such as disabled Kim Hong-Bin who lost his hands to frostbite on Denali. Oh Eun-Sun, Kim Chang-Ho, Kim Sung-Ho and Kim Hong-Bin will check conditions on the route before deciding on the next move.

Dhaulagiri Italians Cala and Ivo failed to reach C3 in a first summit attempt last weekend. Chileans Rodrigo and Andrés, reaching C2, confirmed bad weather hitting the peak. The blizzard almost destroyed Cala and Ivo’s dining tent and the climbers have concerns for tents in high camps. Cala and Ivo are were to depart back up towards C1 Saturday.

Everest The Basque team on the Hornbein Couloir is holding for weather.

Manaslu A serac fall reportedly killed Slovenian Franc Oderlap on October 1st. In spite of a rescue haul to BC, the mountaineer could not be saved and died presumably of brain injuries. The three French climbers Hintzy, Michel and Laurence remain in BC hoping for another shot on the summit.

Manaslu summit debrief Dream Guides’ Guy Willett told ExplorersWeb that Phil’s/Chinese rope stopped about 15-20m (vertical) below the true summit, where the ridge narrows to a crest. Himex guide Adrian fixed new rope to the true summit one day later, and the 10-member Himex team plus Dream Guides and their Sherpa topped out on the 28th, all on oxygen. Guy and Emma skied much of the way down to BC from about 15m below the true summit. Chilean Alex Koller summitted without oxygen and skied back to C4. His mate Andres skied from 8,000meters (where he turned around) to C3.

Hiunchuli All efforts to find and rescue Korean climbers Min Jung-Young and Park Jong-Sung proved useless. “We did our best, but found no trace of them,” Jik-Ji expedition members told local media and arrived back in Korea on Friday (Oct 9). The lost climbers had hoped to open a new route on the peak’s north face.

Season’s notes Rodrigo Granzotto Peron reported that Andrew Lock achieved the first Australian ascent on Shisha Pangma Main while mate Neil Ward is the first Shisha Main summiteer from Wales. On Cho Oyu, Anastasia Illiopoulou became the first Greek lady climber, while Andrea Cardona bagged the first female ascent from Guatemala and Central America, and Birgitte Frost Nohr achieved the first female Danish Cho Oyu summit. Sherpa guide Danuru Sherpa summited Cho Oyu for the 9th time, thus becoming the current record-holder on the mountain. It was also his 21th main 8000er, a score he now shares with Ed Viesturs and which places them both only second with most 8000ers summited – close behind Juanito Oiarzabal, at 23.

Summer 2010 preview: GI’s north face Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli and Daniele Bernasconi hope to bag the unclimbed north face of Gasherbrum I in alpine style next summer, Montagna.org reported. The expedition, organized by Agostino de Polenza, pays tribute to the late Karl Unterkircher: Bernasconi and Unterkircher opened a new route on GII’s north side three years ago.

HumanEdgeTech Review: Thuraya XT and a general 2010 satellite phone overview Thuraya continues to roll out the most exciting handheld satellite phones on the market. Check out HET’s review of the new XT and an overview of the competition such as Terrestar’s Genius announced for early 2010.

ExWeb interview with Todd Carmichael, “Keeping covered is key in order to avoid sun exposure in Death Valley” Todd skied solo to the South Pole in the 2008-09 season in a speed record time of 39 days, 7 hours and 49 minutes. His other expeditions have taken him to various places in Africa. Shortly before his current trek of 400 miles, or more, in the Death Valley Wilderness, ExWeb’s Correne Coetzer caught up with Todd for an interview. “2009 was one of the hottest years on record for Death Valley and last week we saw a number of days at 113 [45°C], with nightly lows above 100 [37.8°C],” Todd said. Carrying only 33 gallons of water, “the plan is to apply a polar work regimen to the desert – seven to eight marches daily until the end, where I let it rip,” he said.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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