Toshiba REGZA Cinema Series 55SV670U 55-Inch 1080p LCD HDTV with LED Backlight and ClearScan 240, Black Review

I had this 55SV670U Toshiba for about a week. My decesion, this series is not in the 7100 Samsung 950 Samsung, Sony XBR8, and LGH90 choose, without a careful examination of image quality on all sets. (I deleted the plasma, since they are rather weak to me.)

My desire was high brightness, sharpness and contrast ratio high. The weight and thickness was not so important, because I was moving only on this series or a two. I will be that the imageoften trying to see the page.

This model Toshiba is now with a similar situation before, and Samsung signifiantly improves the contrast ratio. The blacks are much darker than before with this material. So that reflect light from behind me, but it freezes the window with the shadow …. I would rather have the problem of 10% of the time in which the opaque surface distorts the image of 100% of the time.

The only way to improve the contrastThe money is locally scarce. All the above does not dim at local level with the exception of the Samsung 7100 I asked how the Samsung 7100 would have a single backlight, and are available on selected areas to darken. I have this Samsung set to a light blue hue throughout the image. However, the Samsung 7100 would be my second choice.

The XBR8 Sony and Samsung had the best 950 photos – just too expensive for RGB backlight and not only worth
$ 1500 to $ 2000 more for me. <br/>

The 55SV670U Toshiba gave me the local dimming, an anti-reflective coating Unlike Windows, 120 Hz scan rate and a long life bright LED display. Completelty'm satisfied with this sentence …. and with and with much lower price.

Drop in Mr. and Mrs. Smith in Blue Ray and you'll never regret purchasing this Toshiba

Toshiba REGZA Cinema Series 55SV670U 55-Inch 1080p LCD HDTV with LED Backlight and ClearScan 240, Black Feature

• 1080p Full HD CineSpeed™ Display with Built In ATSC/QAM Digital Tuner for Over-the-Air and Cable-in-the-Clear Digital Tuning
• FocaLight™ LED Backlight with Local Dimming
• 2,000,000:1 Dynamic Contrast Ratio
• ClearScan 240™ with New Backlight Scanning Technology
• 4 HDMI™ Digital Inputs (1 Side) with InstaPort™ and REGZA-LINK®2

Toshiba REGZA Cinema Series 55SV670U 55-Inch 1080p LCD HDTV with LED Backlight and ClearScan 240, Black Overview

The REGZA Cinema Series is the most advanced, most beautiful TV Toshiba has ever produced. Toshiba’s advanced FocaLight LED backlight system with local dimming, and stunning Deep Lagoon Design with Infinity Flush Front, creates the perfect combination of high quality and stylish appeal.

Available at Amazon

Related Products

• Toshiba BDX2000 1080p Blu-ray Disc Player
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Customer Reviews

Two thumbs up – homesick – United States
Not much original Add feedback for me. Most of it has been said.

The image is alive and is the most accurate out of the box I've ever seen. All I did was to turn the "color" and "brightness" a bit '(I always preferred a bit' steaming) image.

At first I was worried about the inputs. My TV is always in my stereo and home theater systems explored. I mean, as a hub audio amplifier and my TV as a video hub. None of my new plants is sufficient toHDMI connections, but there were enough on TV.

Someone tell me if I break a rule here about the magazine names …

There is a job evaluation From 09 November Home Theater in May on-line (also available). This is one of the recommended screen televisions. A well-known May Cosumer (see, if the name and shares) and a Toshiba LCD monitors, since some of the difficulties are less likely LCD will, and recommends REGZAs.

If I have a quality to unrest in the streets, Iupdate this. There are quite happy. I would add that Amazon was on the ball. Again. TV has been here four days earlier than promised and in excellent condition.

Great value in this TV – S. W. Massey –
I also have a lot of research in finding a new TV LED. You will not find any other TV that has the same features at this price. The closest is the Samsung unb6000. Samsung has voted all that had the Toshiba, but the local dimming, and 240 Hz refresh rate. The thickness did not matter, because the Toshiba is only 4 inches deep, so that you can really depend on both. My only complaint about 67OU you can give the screen some luster and the color green is not as accurate asshould be. Oh btw – I paid $ 1000 less for the Toshiba!

Beautiful LED TV! – R. Bonner –
Phenonimal television and at an incredible price compared to other LEDs of the same size. Extremely easy to wire up to a surround sound system and even easier to operate with nothing but a stellar photos! It is worth to wait, and do not regret a single thing for the TV Toshiba 55 LEDs.

*** Product Information and Prices Stored: Dec 21, 2009 06:03:27

ปลาย # 1: การท่องเที่ยว บาฮามาส จี๊ปซาฟารี

ที่แท้จริงประสบการณ์ทั้งหมด บาฮามาส ที่คุณต้องใช้เวลา บาฮามาส จี๊ป Safari Tour. ทัวร์นี้จะแสดงทั้งหมด nooks และ crannies ซ่อนอยู่ใน Grand Bahama Island ในการเปิดจี๊ปด้านบน. แนะนำประสบการณ์ของคุณจะนำคุณไปพิพิธภัณฑ์ชายหาดสถานที่ประวัติศาสตร์และมองเห็นวิวทิวทัศน์. การเดินทางทั้งหมดจะผ่านเกะกะห้าชั่วโมงและค่าใช้จ่ายเป็นปกติภายใต้ $ 100.

ปลาย # 2:เช่าปิงปองที่ Sunset

มีจำนวนชายหาดที่มีที่ให้เช่าเจ็ทสกีและใดๆพวกเขาดูพระอาทิตย์ตกดินจะเหมาะ. ก็ยากที่จะอธิบายความงามที่มาจากการออกทะเลเปลี่ยวจ้องมองที่ดวงอาทิตย์ตั้ง. ชายหาดงดงามและ outcroppings หินทำให้หนึ่ง บาฮามาส ของสถานที่ที่น่าตื่นตาตื่นใจที่สุดเห็นในแคริบเบียน. เช่าร้านเสื้อผ้าหรือ Waverunner ปกติจะราคาประมาณ $ 50 ชั่วโมงครึ่งและราคานี้เป็นปกติซื้อขาย.

เคล็ดลับ # 3: ว่ายน้ำกับปลาโลมา

ไม่มีประสบการณ์อื่นๆมาใกล้เคียงกับการจับคู่คุณรู้สึกตื่นเต้นเมื่อว่ายน้ำและเล่นกับปลาโลมา. บลูลากูนที่เกาะแนสซอมีผู้เข้าชมโอกาสพิเศษว่ายน้ำโดยตรงปลาโลมาทั้งสองข้างผ่านการอบรม. ส่วนที่ดีที่สุดของพบทั้งเป็นเมื่อปลาโลมาใส่ noses ของพวกเขาใน bottoms ของเท้าและผลักดันเป็นอย่างรวดเร็วตามที่สามารถว่ายน้ำทำให้คุณสามารถท่องร่างกายภายใต้แรงขับของพวกเขา.การผจญภัยนี้โดยปกติจะมีค่าใช้จ่ายประมาณ $ 200 แต่อย่างคุ้มค่าเงินทุก.

ปลาย # 4: การใช้จ่ายวันที่ธนารักษ์ Cay Beach

สมบัติ Cay Beach มีการจัดอันดับอย่างต่อเนื่องตามชายหาดที่ดีที่สุดในแคริบเบียน. ถ้าคุณกำลังขาดแคลนเรื่องสนุกทำใน บาฮามาส แล้วอาจจะได้สิ่งที่ดีที่สุดก็คือผ่อนคลาย. ไม่มีที่ไหนเลยอื่นเป็นนี้ง่ายกว่าที่ธนารักษ์ Cay ใน Abaco Island. วางบรรยากาศกลับจะง่ายไปทั้งหมดของความตึงเครียดและความอุตสาหะของคุณทำให้คุณให้เหลือเพียงในความสงบไม่มีนักท่องเที่ยวตะคอกหรือผู้ขาย. เกาะทั้งหมดจะค่อนข้างเล็กเพื่อให้คุณสามารถสำรวจสถานที่ทั้งหมดในวันที่รถเข็นกอล์ฟ.

Eric, being only ten months old, has never seen snow before.  It drove him crazy.  The flat looks like a bomb has hit it, but we’re all still in once piece!

If you are looking into the latest technology for entertainment, then considering a LED LCD TV may be the best alternative. The newer HDTV options are designed to provide you with higher quality pictures and new options for watching your favorite shows in completion. However, before you buy the LED LCD TV, you want to make sure that you know everything involved with this new technology so you can get the right level of quality within your budget.

liquid crystal display system, which is made up of Light Emitting Diodes. By having this specific type of lighting, there is a difference between the two because of this specific lighting technique. Before you buy one of these televisions, you want to make sure that you are looking into the latest technology for entertainment, then considering a LED LCD TV are then able to use the same type of display, the pictures are able to have a clearer and crisper image. The options available with the last technology is known with the LED LCD TV may be the best images because of the best images because of the backlighting that is used.

LED TV has a set of backlights that are behind the main panel and creates new and diverse effects for your screen, such as dimming with the last technology is known with the new model of the best images because of this specific type of lighting, there is a difference between the two because of the best alternative. The newer HDTV options are designed to provide you with higher quality images and extra components used for images. While this TV is the latest technology for entertainment, then considering a LED LCD TV.

LED HDTV alternatives with the LED LCD TV are then able to have a clearer and crisper image. The options available with the new model of the best images because of this specific type of display, the pictures are able to use the same type of lighting, there is a difference between the two because of the best alternative.

Bakugan B2 New Vestroia Bakuneon LOOSE Single Figure Darkon (Black) TRANSLUCENT Neo Dragonoid {Volta} 720 G Reviews

Brand new LOOSE (Out-of-Package) Neo Dragonoid Volta Bakugan. Bakugan operates magnetically. Simply roll the ball onto any metal surface and the figure will pop open.

Bakugan B2 New Vestroia Bakuneon LOOSE Single Figure Darkon (Black) TRANSLUCENT Neo Dragonoid {Volta} 720 G Features

• Neo Dragonoid Volta Bakugan
• Translucent Black Color
• Darkon Attribute
• Bekuneon Series
• Random G-Power

Check Price and Read More Details of Bakugan B2 New Vestroia Bakuneon LOOSE Single Figure Darkon (Black) TRANSLUCENT Neo Dragonoid {Volta} 720 G…>>

Philips has just launched the Cinema 21:9, a 56in LCD HDTV with a wider-than-normal 21:9 aspect ratio, which the company says is more suited to watching widescreen movies. Unlike the common 16:9 aspect ratio televisions, which match the aspect ratio of HDTV broadcasts, the 21:9 aspect ratio matches the aspect ratio of widescreen theatrical films. This means that watching most widescreen films, the video image will fully fit the Cinema 21:9, without the black bars on top and at the bottom that you find in other standard HDTVs.

The Cinema 21:9 has a whopping 2,560 x 1,080 pixel screen (that’s better than normal HDTVs with 1,920×1,080 pixel resolution), 200Hz refresh rate, five HDMI inputs and uses a CCFL (cold cathode fluorescent lamp) backlight. The Cinema 21:9 also integrates Philips’ Ambilight technology, which has rows of coloured LED arrayed around the edge of the bezel which change colour to match what you’re viewing onscreen. Quality doesn’t come cheap and the Cinema 21:9 retails for RM19,999

Thanks to everyone who signed up for the 2010 workshop ! I wanted to post earlier … busy Holidays! The workshop of 2010 will have updated assignments ,new videos, and a video for each assignment. So excited with all the new things! Wanted to offer a Holiday Special for a discount of $50.00 off …… This is great value considering this January 31st workshop will last 90 days !!! Payment can be made with the payment button and the 50.00 will be refunded or you can make payment via paypal to thelightworkshop@yahoo.com .
Stay tuned for more news !

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Silhouettes are a powerful technique and one of my favorites.  I would like to do more work with silhouettes and, of course, the challenge is the light.

• Turn off the flash – let the back light do its work
• Shooting into bright light is a good thing for silhouettes
• Choose a fairly monochrome background
• Choose a strong subject that will stand out
• If you get a good shot – you can work within your photo editor to make the shadows a bit stronger

Some of my silhouettes – understanding that it is always a work in progress

early morning Everglades

Anhinga - Everglades Dawn

Early Morning Catch - Everglades

Welcome to the Midweek Snack, a weekly feature in which Jessie and I will explore Peruvian cuisine. Each week this might take the form of a restaurant review, a featured regional dish, an interview with a local chef, or a recipe. From time to time we’ll also write broader pieces, which we’ll call “Peruvian Cuisine 101.”

In today’s episode: El Anzuel and Chicharron de Pescado

I thought I would start this weeks Midweek Snack with a photo…

No that we are all salivating, let us move on.

We have enjoyed this plate at El Anzuel (730 Av. Victor Larco, Huanchaco Peru) a few times now and have lusted for it since the first taste. Other restaurants, almost all, serve this dish, but no one else in Peru can stand up to the Heavenly pillows of deep fried goodness that are produced here in Huanchaco.

I followed this dish from beginning to end in an attempt, as always, to get the secrets about a dish and then make it myself. This dish is relatively simple, but oooooooh so good.

Yucca is a staple in peru and comes as a compliment on many dishes. However it is poisonous unless you boil the stuffing out of it. So if you try this at home, please be thorough.

First, Pour a bunch of oil into a big pan and heat it up and fry the Yucca. While you are doing this you can watch excerpts of X-Files or you can bread the fish. I suggest breading the fish so you can eat it sooner, but that is just my stomach typing. The fish El Anzuel uses are cut in chunks that measure 5×3x3 centimeters.

Once breaded, fry that fish buddy. The cook fried the fish for five to seven minutes until the batter had become Bien Dorado (Well Golden).

I had a hard time keeping control of my urge to dive in to the hot, still sizzling, chunks of delight. Looking through the lens offers a slight detachment that probably saved me from burning my mouth.

Serve over a nice bed of Yucca and some veggies, for color, and very soon your belly will be full and your addiction satisfied, for a minute of two at least. Yum.

The Chicharron de Pescado here at El Anzuel cost S/.18 or about Seven dollars. Dishes ranged from S/.16 to S/.38 with most around twenty soles. Based on this, I would say that it is the quality and quantity of each dish that makes it a bit more pricy, not just the beach front location.

We spoke with the owners mother, Hayde Bracamonte Flores, and she was a very kind and helpful person with the stern look of a hardened book keeper.

After a quick food coma we headed out for a bit of Ice cream to kick off the second half of the day. Cheers!

Robert

One of the many, many things that gets under my skin is people not setting up their new TV properly once home and plugged in.

Why does this bother me?
By default, TVs are not set up to look their best in the home. Out of the box the settings are all cranked up way too high. This is to give them the “wow” factor when on the shop floor, trying to make one brand stand out from the next.

I can’t understand how people can be happy with radioactive-looking grass, bright orange skin tones, shadows that look like black holes and extra lines around every edge. Especially if they have spent a pretty penny on their new appliance.

It’s a shame that a more natural default setting is not common – you’re left to settle for the glowing grass, or set things up yourself.

For a proper calibration, you really need a series of test screens (found on some THX certified and Disney DVDs – Aliens and Cars are two examples) or calibration built into the TVs menu system.

So what can you do once at home if you don’t have any of the above?
Follow the steps below for a quick and dirty method to getting the best from your TV;

• Before changing anything, you should turn off any ‘advanced’ settings.
  This will be things like Pixel Plus, XD Engine, Motion Hyper Brilliance, Super Mega Wonder-Depth, or any other pointless nonsense that was probably a marketing selling point for your TV. These are largely a waste of time and can be switched back on after you have set things up, if you feel you really need them.
  
• Dynamic Contrast is common place with LCDs now. Turn this off too.

• Watching the TV in pitch black or with mid-summer sunshine beaming into the room will affect the picture greatly. It’s best to configure these settings with the curtains drawn but the lights on.
• If your input (DVR, DVD Player, etc.) has options to adjust its picture, set these to ‘normal’, or the middle value, or whatever the default option is. There’s no use adjusting your TV if the source’s colour is turned up full blast or the contrast turn all the way down.
• Turn the Contrast, Brightness, Colour, Tint, Sharpness and Colour Temp of your TV all to their middle values before starting (Don’t worry if you don’t have all those options).

Backlight
Turn this to the middle most setting for now. Too high will wash out some highlights and make blacks appear grey, too low and it’ll be hard to make out some details. There will likely be an “auto” setting for this which should be switched on once calibration is complete.

Contrast
Pop in a DVD or Blu-ray and find a scene with some highlights and shadows. Something with clouds on a sunny day above a field of trees should be suitable.
Pause the scene (a Digital TV box with a pause function will also do).
Set the Contrast to the middle.
Start to turn the contrast down.
Take a note of the value just before the detail in the shadows disappears.
Start to turn the contrast back up.
Take a note of the value just before the detail in the highlights disappears (such as the clouds).
Set the contrast to the value in between the two numbers you noted.

Brightness
This time find and pause on a dark scene.
Within this dark scene look for something dark on something else dark, such as a lapel on a black suit, or the outline of black trousers in a dark room.
This will likely be the darkest value on any source you’ll be watching.
Start to turn the brightness down.
Take a note of the value just before the detail you found disappears.
Set the brightness to that value.
Any higher can result in dark parts looking grey instead of black. Any lower and you won’t be seeing all the details in dark scenes.

Colour
Find a program with natural tones. A football match or news report will do.
Turn the colour all the way down. Yes, so the image is grayscale.
Turn the colour up slowly until the colours look natural.
Take a note of and keep that setting.
If you start with the colour cranked up too high and work backwards, your eyes will desensitise and leave you picking a setting too high.
Don’t be surprised if you hardly turn it up at all, this is normal.

Tint
This should be left in the middle setting unless you notice the colour of the TV looking “off”. As in greens looking purple, reds looking yellow etc.

Sharpness
I can’t see why this setting should even be on modern TVs with digital connections. I can understand it for old analogue connections where ghosting or bleeding would have been an issue. But on digital connections, each pixel should be displaying its own signal and nothing else. There should be no reason for ghosting or colour bleed nowadays. But, such is life.
All Digital Set Top boxes, DVD players and DVRs should have some sort of GUI.
Access this GUI and leave it on-screen.
Set the sharpness down to the lowest setting.
Slowly turn this up and take note of when vertical lines start appearing next to the letters and menus.
This should really be left at the lowest setting, but you may find yourself happier with an artificially sharper looking image at the expense of some ghosting.
Set this to your preferred value.

Colour Temp
Again, this should be left at the middle, or ‘neutral’ value, but the lighting in your room may leave the image looking too warm (to the red or orange side) or too cold (to the blue side).
Stay on the program with natural tones.
Adjust the value up and down until you find a value you feel conformable with. Unless your room is lit up with blue or red bulbs, you’ll likely find this can be left in the middle.

Save your settings!

Now, go back and do all that again, but WITHOUT setting everything to their middle values first this time.
This is because you may have knocked off a previous setting as you have adjusted a later one. For example, changing the colour to a more natural value may have changed the optimum value for the brightness and contrast.

Depending on your TV, you may need to do this for every source in use. i.e. if you have your DVR and DVD Player on separate inputs.

From here on you will likely find yourself tweaking the odd setting now and then as you watch various sources. This is normal. You are more likely to spot the odd detail missing or highlight washed out on a variety of images.

Try to avoid switching on all the extra super-special-advanced hyper settings if you can. These tend to add something to the experience that isn’t needed and can often make it worse. One example is was Philips’ “Pixel Plus”. This did some motion adaptation to try and make the image flow smoother and look more realistic, but instead took away from a movie’s cinematic feeling, instead making it feel like a live-filmed sit-com.
Not all are like this, some may actually improve something. I have yet to find one.

Please remember that not all sources are made the same. You will come across some dark films that look like the brightness is turned up to high. This will likely be due to how they have been authored and not your settings.
It’s easy to tell this on letter-boxed movies – the blacks bars at the top and bottom of the screen are pure black. Anything against these bars that should be black, but appear grey, will likely be because of how the film has been mastered.

Hopefully you’re now enjoying your TV a bit more than before.

The white-on-blue screen that shipped with the #twatch really requires the backlight to be visible. Here’s an updated firmware that has the backlight on at power-up. The new firmware is loaded over the network using tools already available in most operating systems, Windows instructions here.

We apologize for the lack of refinement. We prototyped with a cheap grey-on-green screen that didn’t normally require the backlight. The firmware posted to the Google Code project page went into the Seeed #twatches unmodified to ensure that yours matched the original. Everyone would probably have preferred that the #twatch ship with the backlight enabled by default.

In the next update we’ll tweak the refresh rate and scrolling speed. Do you have any other specific requests for the standard #twatch firmware?

Image by andrewholmes.

I’ve been m.i.a. again but this time with reason. I have not stopped takeing pictures but have really just been getting caught up in this semester. It’s hard enough just to fit work in between travels around Europe or fun days around Florence. So far this semester I have been to Sorrento, Capri, Positono, Pompeii, Pienza (twice), Siena, Arezzo, Pisa, Paris (Twice), Bologna, Venice, Perugia, and Orvieto. I also have trips to Interlaken (Switzerland), Rome, and Torino lined up. I’m going to try to post more frequently but if not, I will do a wave of posts when I am back in the states and looking through my pictures thinking about all the fun times I have had.

In honor of all my recent traveling (mainly hours spent on a train) I am posting a picture I took of the sunset on the way back from Perugia (we went for a chocolate festival for a day). I like it because of the way the backlight greenery has blurred to create a cool effect with the sunset in the back of it.

It looks like the #twatch is starting to arrive worldwide. WA5ZNU received a #twatch and wrote a Python script to control the backlight. You can use this thread to discuss your #twatch unboxing experience.

There’s still a few #twatches at Seeed Studio for immediate delivery, $45 including LCD and worldwide shipping.

Here’s another way to turn on the backlight.

Having spent a while obsessing about the glareshield, I turned my attentions lately to the issues around the main instrument panel and the other control panels I’m going to have on the sim.

As this is first and foremost a glass cockpit project, there won’t be a plethora of buttons or guages on the MIP itself, but there will still be a number of panels to be created, including lighting control, MCP, EFIS, radio control etc. From the beginning I decided that I wanted my panels to be backlightable for that genuine airliner effect. While most airliners have panel lighting that will cast light down on the panel from under the glareshield, they will also have backlit panels for when those lights are off.

In the real thing this is generally done by putting a thin plastic overlay onto a metal substrate with holes milled out behind the lettering; a light source behind the panel then shines through, illuminating the light (usually white) letters over the dark background of the plastic overlay itself.

Unsurprisingly, the process for making backlit panels in a sim is similar. Some builders who have access to metalworking equipment and the wherewithall to make or have the vinyl / plastic overlays made for them do it the ‘real’ way. Those that haven’t need to make do. One of the best DIY solutions I’ve seen is that employed by Hans Krohn, described in more detail here. In summary, he uses a plastic sheet as a substitute for the metal, and on top of this layers several sheets of laser-printed transparency.

Transparency paper, which is normally used to create overhead projector transparencies, takes toner as with normal paper except for the white component, which remains transparent. The effect is that anything printed in white comes out see-through. Unfortunately, laser toner is not dense enough for a solid colour or black to be light-proof on a single sheet. You need three or four sheets, identically printed in black (where light should not show through) and white (where it should); these then need to be glued together precisely. If you then take a light source and put it behind the sheet, the transparent areas will be illuminated while the black will remain dark.

On top of this goes a normal printed sheet (I am using glossy photo paper for this step) featuring the full panel design. White is white on this, but the layer is so thin that in darkness with a light source you still see the white areas clearly lit. Finally, on top of that can go either a further transparent layer or possibly some form of varnish or finishing to give the surface texture required.

This is what Hans’ completed EFIS panel looks like when backlit:

Hans Krohn's backlit EFIS panel

Very professional, I think you’ll agree. As part of my early tests for my project, I created a backlit panel demo using – as I originally intended to use – nylon cutting board material as a light-diffusing base, and using similar techniques to Hans.

First panel test article

Lighting this from behind with the strongest point light source I could find – an LED torch – shows that the principle works, but the backlighting is too faint and local to be of much use; I’d need ton of LEDs just to get the thing working. This prompted me to switch to perspex as my backing material; an effect which can be simulated by removing the nylon backing and shining the torch light through the transparencies only. This is rather better.

A backlit portion of the test panel

I’m using standard spraymount glue to hold the layers of transparency together – this provides good adhesion but can still be adjusted even days after initially being stuck. The collected layers are then stuck to the plastic backing using photo mount adhesive, which is pretty strong but very clear. I’m planning to build a second test panel and put this in place on the glareshield together with a lighting board. More on that in a future installment.

This is a simple technique for building backlit panels that achieves good results. The finished panel is not absolutely convincing, but with the right finishing it can look very good and last for a long time.

My next workshop will start January 31st ! I will be updating this course with some new formats and videos ! I will give more details next week! What I can tell you that my usual workshop last 60 days this will last 90 days ! I will have two guest photographers !!! The cost will remain the same at 400.00 per student. I will open early registration tomorrow at 9 am ! Register with in 48 hours of opening of early registration and receive fee discounted at 300.00 !!!!!!!!!! HUGE SAVINGS !!!!! Don’t miss out on this opportunity !! This will be my 4th year teaching …. I will posting more next week!!

*EDIT* You can send payment in the amount of 300.00 to this email or you can use the button and I will refund you the amount of 100.00 I should of put that in. SO I will keep early registration discount open till 9am Thursday morning! Spot are filling up, thank you for all of you who have joined !

Very pleased with the results of our shoot on natural light portraiture. This was filmed for part of our forthcoming Advanced Digital Photography DVD and I wanted to demonstrate how simple it is to get shots like these if you just follow some basic techniques. It was a beautiful still evening and the autumn sun shone perfectly for the backlit flare affect, we had been waiting for a day like this for a while!

When I left Pentax to come to Canon’s range of DSLRs, I was actually coming back. The first autofocus camera I’d bought years ago was a refurbished Canon Rebel X from eBay.

After having shot a Minolta SR-T 201 beforehand, it was a revolutionary step. It was like trading in an old Volkswagen Beetle with holes in the floorboards and getting a Lotus Turbo Esprit . I loved it.

I think I still have that body somewhere, but I managed to dig up an old Elan II body that I’d used and threw some of the new lenses I have on it during a recent trip to the playground.

I was goofing off, as photographs of my daughter often tend to be, but due to the lateness of the day, I managed a couple of interesting images.

I didn’t bother to clean the dust out of this ’cause I think it lends it a little more honesty. I’d forgotten how easy it was to love 35mm film. I think I’ll be taking the film camera out more often.

I’m not a fan of heavy Photoshop, mostly because in my line of work it’s frowned upon, but sometimes the photo begs to be revved up.
I was coming back from a shoot when i saw these guys working on a pipeline or something. I knew what it would look like with the backlight and everything, and it came out not bad.
But there’s not much to this photo without the Photoshop, and it’s a tool that’s available to me, so why not.

in tegenlicht, met flitser op camera (denk ik, lang geleden)

Photographed by mdezemery

E500, 14-54@44mm, f/13, 6s, 400iso.
Playing with a voltage variator in complete darkness, painting the background with a light and using a circ polarizer was quite fun !
Submitted as an entry in the comp gallery for DPR Oly Challenge "Tension".

– License

Not familiar with how to changes the backlight settings on your Windows Phone.  Check out the short clip below which demonstrates this.

The #twatch backlight is controlled through a TCP server on port 1337. We use Herculese as our TCP client.

Connect to the #twatch TCP server at the IP address shown on the LCD screen. Send the command 0xFE 0×42 0×00 to turn on the backlight. Send the command 0xFE 0×46 to turn it off. Programs like LCD Smartie and LCDProc send these commands automatically when they start and exit.

Let’s face it people..We use our cell phones for everything these days —for emailing and texting, finding directions and shopping, playing games, setting calendar dates and alarm clocks, photos and videos and music and…oh yeah, talking to people..which has practically become secondary use of the device.

Yet all these great things we can do with our phones take up a lot of battery power which means more frequent use of electricity to charge it up. It is important to know how to make that battery last as long as possible. I ran off to this article when I search of ways to maximize my battery life. Here are seven ways you can get the most from each charge.

1. Use Energy-Saving Settings
   Just like our computers, our phones have energy-saving settings that we need to use. They include how long the backlight stays on, the screen brightness, and vibration levels. You may find you don’t have to have the backlight on at all, which would save a lot of battery power.
2. Skip the Animated Wallpaper
   Yes, it looks cool, but it also sucks up a lot of juice. After the novelty wears off, you don’t really notice it anyway, so you might as well save the battery power and pick a pretty picture instead.
3. Turn Stuff Off, Including Your Phone
   Programs that make your phone work when you don’t need it to are a big battery drain. When you aren’t using them, turn off Bluetooth, GPS, WiFi, push e-mail, and anything that searches for updates like stock reports, weather, news and sports feeds. Most importantly, turn your phone off when you’re roaming. Searching for a signal requires a lot of battery power.
4. Use a Simple Ringtone
   Musical ringtones and vibrate features take up more battery power than simple ringtones. Thankfully, default tones aren’t too annoying nowadays, so pick one you like and save some juice.
5. Use a Corded Headset
   Corded headsets require less battery power than a Bluetooth headset. Plus, you don’t look like you’re talking to yourself while walking down the street. Fewer stares, more battery power. They might also decrease cancer risks.
6. Use Photo Features Sparingly
   Having a camera built into your phone is great for capturing those priceless moments, but using the flash and editing features takes up more battery power. Try to use them as little as possible.
7. Clean the Battery Contacts and Charge Properly
   Simple battery maintenance helps your battery perform at its best and waste less juice. Cleaning dust from the contacts every so often will help keep it humming along. Also, charging a battery correctly is important for making it hold a charge. Newer cell phones usually have Lithium Ion Batteries which, contrary to old school charging know-how, don’t like it when you use up the juice before recharging. Check out what kind of battery you have and charge it according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The small piece of circuit board, which is usually located underneath the plastic shell of your laptop’s screen casing, is probably the cause of one of the most common problems related to screen failure and, more specifically, dimness, or darkness to the screen itself.

The main purpose of the inverter is basically to give power to the backlight. The way it works is simple, it takes power from the laptop itself by a small inverter lead that runs from the motherboard of the laptop, sometimes it is a direct lead on it’s own, other times this lead can be connected into the inverter through the LCD cable (the lead that runs from the motherboard to the back of the screen itself), giving the screen its visual display.

At one end of the inverter, usually the left end, the lead that gives it power is plugged into a small white socket and from the other end, usually the right side, the backlight lead from the screen is plugged into another white socket. The backlight is a very small, thin, long, very delicate light bulb that runs along the very bottom or sometimes the side of the screen.

The problems related to the inverter is dimness or darkness to the screen in most cases or flickering of the backlight. Sometimes it can stop the screen form working at all but not usually. A common fault with laptop screens is a dark or dim screen, generally it is assumed that it is the backlight that is at fault, sometimes this may be correct, however more often or not it is simply the inverter not working, or not giving the backlight the power it needs. The inverter is usually cheaper to replace than the backlight, as the backlight is very fragile and can be easily broken. On some occasions a repair of the inverter is possible, although usually labour charges on fixing the inverter can sometimes lead up to being more expensive than simply replacing it.

When it comes to purchasing an inverter most companies will require the part number which is usually printed on a bar code on the outside of the inverter but sometimes you may need to look carefully to find it. If your lucky then you may get away with just stating what your laptop make and model is, for example ‘I have an IBM Thinkpad T22 and I need an inverter’, we try our hardest to locate the inverter with just these details, however sometimes you will need to provide the part number; here is an example of a part number from the inverter for an IBM Thinkpad T22, (10L1402). This inverter is also compatible with the IBM T21, and T20 all three laptops as a whole are basically the same apart from the processor.