Un “Dolcepensiero” che fa tradizione: il termine BRASATO deriva dal dialetto lariano “BRASAA” che significa appunto cuocere sulla brace, mentre oggi il pezzo di carne da voi scelto va solo rosolato in pentola. Dopo la rosolatura, si procede a creare una “pucia” ottima per inzupparci polenta o purè di patate. Il brasato si differenzia dallo stufato sempre di carne ma cotto con tempi più lunghi e a fuoco molto basso; simile al brasato e allo stufato è lo stracotto, molto noto sulle tavole italiane quello d’asino, che dopo una lunga marinatura – anche più di un giorno – prevede una cottura molto lunga più di quella del brasato e si può conservare anche qualche giorno protetto dal grasso solidificato che lo ricopre. A Canzo ed a Oggiono – in provincia di Como e Lecco – si prepara ancora il “BOEUF A’ LA MODE”, nato da un suggerimento di Stendhal che adorava questi luoghi.

INGREDIENTI PER SEI PERSONE

1,5 kg di scamone di manzo

50 grammi di burro

2 litri di vino rosso BARBERA

2 cipolle

2 carote

2 coste di sedano

qualche chiodo di garofano

2 spicchi di aglio

noce moscata q.b.

sale e pepe q.b.

PREPARAZIONE

In una pentola dai bordi alti, bollire dell’acqua con tutte le verdure tagliate a pezzi insieme ai chiodi di garofano.

In una casseruola con il burro, far brasare uniformemente la carne. Regolare di sale e pepe, aggiungere una spolverata di noce moscata.

Bagnare con il vino rosso barbera e portare il tutto a cottura a fuoco moderato. Appena si è asciugato il vino, A questo punto aggiungere alla carne le verdure e qualche mestolo di brodo ottenuto: lasciate cuocere il vostro brasato per almeno 2 ore a fuoco basso girandolo ogni tanto per farlo cuocere per bene da tutti i lati. Se si dovesse asciugare troppo, aggiungete del brodo tenuto da parte. Qualche minuto prima di servire la carne, prelevarla dalla pentola e con il frullatore ad immersione, frullare tutta la verdura avendo l’accortezza di estrarre i chiodi di garofano. Rimettere la carne in pentola ed allungare il sughetto ottenuto se troppo denso, con qualche cucchiaio di brodo. Tagliare il pezzo di carne a fette.

Servire il brasato con il proprio sughetto accompagnato con purè oppure con polenta come in questo caso.

Altri brasati:

DI CINGHIALE

DI ANATRA

H  O  M  E

B  L  O  G

2006 Renwood Sierra Foothills Barbera

It’s been 5 months – where does the time go? Hopefully I’ll get to spend more time focusing on tasting as opposed to everything else that’s going on.

Today I’m tasting one of George’s wine club wines – a Barbera from California. One thing I’ve done lately is try to taste varietals outside their region. However I’m not a big fan of non-Portuguese “Ports”. This wine comes in around $10. It’s a nice ruby red, however it isn’t so dark that you can’t see your fingers through the glass. On the nose, I instantly get earthy tones with vegetables and a smoke component. On the fruit side of things I smell black currant and plum. The tannins quite strong with a good bit of acid. The smokiness also exists in flavor as well as nose. The fruits are black and the plum shows up in the flavor as well. The carpet definitely matches the drapes with this wine. No huge surprises from nose to mouth. The flavor continues long after the wine is gone.

Rating: 1980 Bob Horner Bob Horner played with the Atlanta Braves from 1978-86. He played at both 3rd and 1st base, and his only year other than with Atlanta was with St Louis in 1988. He was what he was – a power hitter. It 10 seasons he totalled 218 HR’s, but most of those came in 8 seasons as he spent almost all of 1984 on IR. He never spent a day in the minor leagues and started his career as ROY and a HR. Like this wine – it shows what it is on the nose and backs it up in flavor. It’s dirty, smokey, and gritty. What you see is what you get, and it comes at good value. Unfortunately for Bob, he never really got a chance to make his money in free agency, although his salary was 7th in baseball for his final two years. This is a wine that could easily be forgotten how good it is and is at a price point that you could enjoy it any time.

It’s that time of year again.  Tourists are at home, and the Piemontese go tartofo hunting in the month of November.  We’ll be tagging along on Saturday, with fingers crossed.  Some lunches and dinners are already booked. We are trying out the Osteria Veglio in La Morra and Osteria La Libera in Alba for the first time.  And going back to the wonderful new restaurant in Dogliani – Fior di Sale.  Although trouffles and food are the primary focus of this visit, one cannot go to the Langhe and not visit some of the great wineries.  This time we’re visiting with this year’s Winery of the Year (Bruno Giacosa), the people behind one of my favourite Barberas (the La Crena from Vietti), and Gianfranco Allessandria (cannot wait to taste yet another vintage of his San Giovanni).  And hoping to bump into Altare at some point throughout the weekend.    Again, we are staying at one of the hidden gems of this world, the Corte Gondina Hotel.

“My wines are like a person. They talk, they change, they tell you something different every sip. They taste different from one day to the next, from one hour to the next. That kind of complexity is what makes wine interesting.”

In 1970’s, San Francisco gallery owner Sean Thackrey left behind his career as a dealer of Nineteenth Century French photography and began making wine. His education did not come from UC Davis, nor from any traditional studies of oenology. Instead, Thackrey began to collect ancient and Medieval texts on the subject, opting for an approach that would yield wine that differed greatly from what was abundantly available.

In 1979 Thackrey bottled his first wine, a Bordelais blend of Cabernet and Merlot sourced from Napa Valley’s Fay Vineyard. While this first attempt was of sufficient quality to reaffirm his change in vocation, he nevertheless would shift direction, making the observation that Napa Valley style wines did not fascinate him. “They’re just too damn polite for me. Why drink a wine that you wouldn’t like if it were a person? It’s like sitting next to someone and everything they say has to be so proper.”

Thackrey turned to Mourvédre and Petit Sirah—two grapes which at that time, did not have the status and popularity they now enjoy. Both were generally used in blending cuvées, and were rarely bottled as stand alones. And while the American wine landscape became enamored of terroir —the sense of place imparted by a specific location—Thackrey dismissed its importance, favoring an alchemist’s approach. Pleiades, which comprises about 60% of his annual 5,000 case production, is based on a shifting blend of grapes such as Carignane, Barbera, Mourvedre, Syrah, Sangiovese, and Viognier. These are strange bedfellows to be sure, but then this perfumey gem tastes nothing like anything I’ve had before or since.

At the age of  67, Sean Thackrey produces five wines, all named for constellations. His fascination with the patterns we impose onto nature, draws an interesting parallel to the intellectual curiosity he exercises when blending grapes and making bits of heaven. Sean Thackrey is a Renaissance man—he speaks seven languages, is an expert on and a collector of 19^th Century photography, is a photographer himself. Today he maintains one of the World’s largest collections of ancient and Medieval texts on the subject of wine—the very same manuscripts from which he learned his craft.

*    *    *    *    *    *    *    *    *    *    *

I managed to get my hands on a couple bottles each of the 2006 Sean Thackrey Sirius Petite Sirah and the 2003 Sean Thackrey Aquila Sangiovese Eaglepoint Ranch Mendocino. Because the Petite Sirah is expected to cellar for 20-30 years (take that, first growth Bordeaux), I opted to open the Sangiovese. This red is stunning and full of the surreal and heady attributes that I enjoy in the Pleiades, but with additional complexity, depth and savoriness that make this far more food-friendly and sophisticated. This deep scarlet wine immediately offers a perfumey nose of eucalyptus, chocolate and malt. The body is glassy and Pinot-like, but with an extra viscosity that the glycerin note lends.  Raspberry, eucalyptus, cocoa, tart cherry and a hint of smoke continually trade off on the palate.  The structure is seamless and perfectly integrates fruit, tannins and acidity into a supple experience with a long, long finish. This is most unusual—I am absolutely blown away.

One of the great things to do on a weekend in the Yarra Valley is to attend one of the many life music events. I especially love the music on a Sunday afternoon at the Yarra Glen Grand Hotel. First of all the food is quite good and second the venue is very suitable for the occasion provided there is not too much wind rattling the tent in which the bands perform.

Moreover, the Yarra Glen Grand Hotel is a beautiful historic building, a landmark in Yarra Glen, with it’s tower which is visible from many parts of the valley, it really stands out.

We had lunch and eagerly awaited the Bob Starkie Band which was to play in the afternoon. Bob Starkie is well known in Melbourne. He used to be one of the members of the legendary Skyhooks in the 1970s, a cult band in Melbourne. One of their top hits was “Women in Uniform”.

But first came the food.

The food was hearty and very tasty, as the two pictures above show. The wines we had with it were excellent examples of the local wine culture.

We had a bottle of ‘2006 Mandala Chardonnay’ from the Yarra Valley and a bottle of ‘2005 Dal Zotto Barbera’ from Whitefield in the King Valley, a neighboring wine region with very good cool climate wines.

Both wines were excellent and very enjoyable. The 2003 vintage of the Dal Zotto Barbera was given 90 points. The Dal Zotto family with a proud Italian heritage is well known for their quality wines. Their Italian varietal wines made from Barbera, Arneis and Sangiovese grapes have won high acclaim. Also their prosecco is commendable. The high altitude of the King Valley and its cool climate seems to be very suitable for those Italian varietals.

Owned by the Smedly family, Mandala Wines is located just a few kilometers up the highway, north of Yarra Glen. The cellar door and restaurant (open for lunch Thursday to Sunday and dinner on Saturday evenings) used to be “Henkel Vineyard” but has been redone completely. I love the design of the label, a huge mandala, which changes colour on the website, and expresses the philosophy of the owner on life and wine-making.

Mandala Chardonnay

Dal Zotto Barbera

And then the music started. The Bob Starkie Band promised exciting entertainment. They did not disappoint playing many of the classical Skyhooks songs. It did not take long and the dance floor was crowded with rural folks moving and shaking. There is nothing better then a dance on a Sunday afternoon. It also makes sure that one is clear headed on a Monday morning. We had great fun. I can only highly recommend it to the accidental traveler. If in the Yarra Valley look out for live music events

Bob Starkie

Addresses:
Yarra Valley GRAND Hotel
Bell Street, Yarra Glen, VIC. 3775
Tel.: 03-9730 1230
int: +61 3 9730 2434
fax: 03 9730 2434
e-mail: hotel@yarravalleygrand.com.au
www.yarravalleygrandcom.au

MANDALA WINES PTY LTD
1568 Melba Highway Dixons Creek Yarra Valley Victoria 3775
Tel. +61 3 5965 2016
Fax: +61 3 5965 2589
e-mail: info@mandalawines.com.au
www.mandalawines.com.au

Dal Zotto Wines
Main Rd, Whitfield,
King Valley, Vic 3733 Australia
Tel.: +61-3-57 298 321
Fax +61-3 57 298 490
info@dalzotto.com.au
www.dalzotto.com.au

Tagliatelle with tomato conserva and ricotta.

Valpane Barbera del Monferrato, bright food-friendly red wine from Piedmont, Italy.

Corona bean soup with house-made sausage.

Suggested pairing: Tintero Grangia, sparkling white wine from Piedmont Italy.

We have had this Terre di Ricaldone Barbera D’Asti 2005 before but it was quite a long time ago. I retrieved this wine from our storage area in the basement — mainly, because I wanted an excuse to check on my son who isn’t feeling well and was watching TV downstairs. So, I was able to breeze through on my way to pick out a bottle of wine and also check on him and see how he was doing. (He is sick; maybe has the flu but he is relaxing and taking good care of himself.)

Although I noticed from my notes that I really enjoyed this wine the last time I had it, my experience is different tonight. Tonight I am finding that the nose is musty and I do not like a musty nose. The nose is a big part of the wine; so it is difficult for me to get past it; however, in spite of this, the taste of the wine is typical Italian and very good.

For dinner, I am roasting a fresh chicken that we bought at the local farmer’s market yesterday. I also tossed some fresh, diced potatoes into the cast-iron skillet with the chicken. I am baking an acorn squash and will make a salad. (I harvested the remaining lettuce from my garden today so I have some wonderful, baby-leaf lettuce for dinner tonight.) I am going to hand over the computer to Tom so he can write his tasting notes, too.

Tom: To my palate this is a pleasant Italian with a taste common to many Italian wines: an Old World, slightly vegetal quality. It has a light-to-medium body and is fairly dry. (This is the opposite of, say, a fruit-bomby Australian. Each has its place, depending on one’s mood and food.

This is the high season for trade tastings and as a result lots on new wines heading our way. This week’s crop include:

Piramimma Petit Verdot (Aus) – $36 – Highly recommended by one of our Australian residents on Bowen.

Joseph Burrier Macon-Solutré-Pouilly(Fr.) – $34.90 – Maconnais Sauvignon Blanc

Joseph Burrier Macon-Fuissé (Fr.) – $34.90 – Maconnais Chardonnay

I had both these last month and they are tremendous value for the quality you get.

G. Alessandria Barbera d’Alba 2007 (Italy) – $34.90

G. Alessandria Langhe Nebbiolo 2006 (Italy) – $39.90

Verve Negroamero (Italy) – $34.90 – Bronze medal winner Wine & Spirits Magazine 2008

La Gioisa Prosecco (Italy) 200ml 4 Pack – $29.90 – Very nice dry Prosecco  in a 4×200ml format. 2 glasses per bottle.

All of the Italians are simply divine. Worth the money.

 ADIRONDACK WINERY AWARDED SIX MEDALS AT THE 2009 WORLD VALUE WINE CHALLENGE

Adirondack Winery’s Chardonnay won a Silver Medal (a.k.a. Highly Recommended) at the WVWC, while five additional Adirondack Winery wines were awarded Bronze Medals (a.k.a. Recommended): Riesling, Pinot Grigio, Red Barn (Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon), Fireworks Red Merlot, and Barbera.

The WVWC judges described Adirondack Winery’s Chardonnay as having a “Rich, golden color and offering aromas of pineapple, ripe kiwi, butter cream, and spun honey following through on a round, satiny entry to a fruity-yet-dry medium-to-full body with nice layers of citrus, praline, and spice.” Adirondack Winery CEO and wine maker, Michael Pardy, sources grape must from the Woodbridge , California area to create this Chardonnay – it is lightly oaked and aged in stainless steel drums. Pardy’s Chardonnay also won a Bronze Medal at the Finger Lakes International Wine Competition earlier this year.

The WVWC judges described Adirondack Winery’s Bronze Medal-Winning Riesling as “lush”, its Red Barn Cabernet Sauvignon as “deep”, its Pinot Grigio as “soft and breezy”, its Barbera as “raisiny”, and its Fireworks Red Merlot as embodying brown spice and herbs. 

• Chardonnay: The flowering garden at Blais Park along Beach Road in Lake George
• Riesling: The first balloons blowing up and taking off at the Adirondack Hot Air Balloon Festival.
• Pinot Grigio: Boats docked along the Lake George Boardwalk at twilight. 
• Fireworks Red Merlot: Spectacular fireworks bursting above Lake George 
• Barbera: The night lights of boats waiting for the 4^th of July fireworks reflect on Lake George .
• Red Barn (Cabernet Sauvignon): One of many picturesque red barns that dot Washington County .

  

  

(click pictures to retrieve higher quality label images)

La cultura wiki ens ha ensenyat que el coneixement pot anar enriquint-se i complementant-se amb les aportacions de molts, tot i que, no siguen experts. Information is Beautiful havia dedicat un gràfic als monstres de la ficció més coneguts. Jo com a bon ciutadà-wiki he decidit afegir al disseny una nova i fictícia figura fruit de les més pèrfides llegendes Populars. Li diuen Rita Barberà. Auto-proclamada ama de València i reina de la corrupció des de 1991. Elegida pel poble i designada pel santíssim. Malèfica invenció que mai passarà del terreny fictici de les ments més perverses a la realitat valenciana.

Recently wrote this for a local distributor.  It was fascinating what I learned about this lesser known varietal, Charbono.  I thought I would share the findings…

Many people, in fact many wine connoisseurs even, might wrinkle their foreheads and cup their ears for a second try if they heard the term ‘Charbono’.  And that is understandably so.  This obscure, black-skinned varietal is nearly extinct, though it has found security in a very small, devoted population of growers, sellers, and consumers who salute its unique style and will do everything they can to ensure that the enchanting Charbono grape will not be laid to rest.

In fact, this varietal has been taken under the protective wing of the Slow Foods movement’s ‘Ark of Taste’ program, which is designed to promote awareness and the continued production of select endangered foods that meet a specific criterion.  These foods must be ‘outstanding in terms of taste,’ ‘at risk,’ ‘sustainably produced,’ ‘culturally or historically linked,’ and ‘produced in limited quantities’[1].  The Slow Foods movement began in 1986 by an Italian named Carlo Petrini who took a stand against fast food by protesting the opening of a McDonalds in Rome.  Since then, chapters have blossomed around the world and include over 100,000 members.  They are built on ethical and ecological standards that systematically work to preserve and instill better health, nutrition, and sustainable lifestyle choices through food.

In times like these, education is in order.  Oftentimes, it is simply lack of knowledge, production, and availability that widdles a wine into extinction.  Trends taint taste and lesser-known varietals begin to fade on the radar.  Higher acid, tannic grapes like Charbono that can stand to use a little time in the bottle quickly fall to the wayside for more accessible, ‘drink now’ reds.  In a fast-paced world, the art of ageing is growing obsolete.  But Charbono has a fascinating history, a truly compelling story to tell.  So take a moment…and listen.

A very American grape, the ‘immigrant’ Charbono varietal travelled from Italy in the late 1800’s, which it was then thought to be the Barbera variety.  After a rather prolonged identity crisis, DNA testing finally confirmed that the Charbono was not interchangeable with Barbera, Dolcetto, or (yes, wince) even Pinot Noir (which it so mistakenly was one year in the ‘30’s by the Parducci winery).  Though Charbono was deemed independent of these other grapes in the ‘30’s, it wasn’t until 1999 when Carole Meredith of UC-Davis found its heritage to be in the Corbeau varietal of the alpine Savoie region in France, though here it is predominantly used for blending only.

Charbono has always been a ‘cult’ grape, a specialty wine that has seen production in limited quantities.  It is a varietal that was really taken in by Inglenook in the ‘70’s, which consequently influenced several other producers as well.  Inglenook was responsible for about half the production of Charbono—35 acres.  This was Charbono’s heyday.  Unfortunately, when Inglenook sold their properties, these vines were replaced with more profitable varieties that spoke to the current trends.  Charbono has since-then been in danger.

Charbono needs time—it is a slow-ripening, late harvest varietal.  Its sure-handed acidity and tough tannins allow for the wine to exhibit remarkable structure and age-worthiness.  Very traditional styles would even propose waiting 10-20 years before consumption.  It is held together by an austere, muscular framework, but the execution of its song is undeniably elegant, silky, and more feminine in style.  It has an unmatchable knack for pairing well with a variety of food, from game and beef to chicken and seafood.

The most ideal location for growing Charbono is Calistoga—the sweet spot of Napa Valley.  In Calistoga, the microclimates and soils are optimal for this tough little grape.  It’s about 10 degrees warmer here compared to the lower parts of Napa Valley.  Also, Calistoga benefits from the fog that comes from the Russian River, making the day and nighttime temperature differential significantly pronounced, allowing for the fruit to maintain its signature acidity.  Calistoga’s Charbono grapes come off more concentrated and focused.

Currently there are less than 100 acres of production.  About half are in the Napa Valley while the rest are scattered to the north in Mendocino, Monterey, and Madera.  Roughly 6,500 cases are released to market each year.  Seldom, if ever, can one find Charbono on a wine list.  Most wine shops haven’t even heard of it.  And it’s a shame.  For all its food pairing potential, intriguing history, and incomparable flavor profile, Charbono is like a great classic that gathers dust and sits abandoned on a quiet shelf, waiting to be read.

In Colorado, one of the top Charbonos left in this country from Shypoke Vineyards.  They have some of the oldest vines, planted back in 1904 by Michael Heitz, an immigrant from the German region of Alsace, which is now considered France.  He planted several ‘suitcase cuttings,’ including Charbono.  They were almost totally wiped out during Prohibition, but fortunately a few acres remained.  It wasn’t really until the late ‘80’s when Gary Heitz and his wife Ginny inherited the property, striving to bring back the Charbono before it was too late.  The family tradition continues today.  Since 2001, their son, Peter Heitz, has taken over winemaking at Shypoke, where he and his wife, Meg, now have 12 acres of Charbono, which is hand-picked, de-stemmed, and cold soaked for about 2 days.  Shypoke utilizes top fermentation methods and manual punch-downs, allowing for a Charbono that is extremely accessible in its youth, but still possesses impeccable ageing capacities due its acid and tannin levels.  It is aged for 8 months in both American and French oak.

The 2006 Shypoke Charbono wears a dark, inky outfit giving off notes of black cherries and plum in the nose.  On the palate, these aromas are confirmed along with savory spices and the essence of chocolate.  The mouthfeel is surprisingly silky and soft for its age, though incredibly full.  A lovely, lasting finish will have you pining for the next sip just to experience Charbono all over again.  This is the wine to try if you gravitate towards big, California reds.  Only 630 cases made.

Winter Vineyard Scene, Bolgheri (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Text and photos ©Tom Hyland

This past week I conducted a class at Perman Wine Selections in Chicago that included some of Italy’s finest and most famous wine types. I dubbed the class “Italy’s Killer B’s”; the wines tasted were examples of Brunello, Bolgheri, Barbera, Barbaresco and Barolo. 

These are classic reds and I wanted to taste out various styles of these wines along with different vintages and see how these wines develop in the bottle. Starting with Brunello, we had the 2004 Poggio di Sotto and the 2001 Fossacolle. Both are small estates of very high quality and their wines showed quite well. This was especially true of the Poggio di Sotto, which offered explosive fruit aromas and great concentration. This is a traditional producer that uses only large casks (botti grandi) to age their Brunello. The praise for this wine by the class members was unanimous; for me it is an exceptional Brunello that should age well for another 12-15 years. I think it is one of the finest of all the bottlings of Brunello from the excellent 2004 vintage.

The 2001 Fossacolle also showed very well, with plenty of fruit and a nice earthiness in the finish. This is a producer that mixes modern winemaking with traditional, using both large and small oak for aging. The owner of this estate, Sergio Marchetti, used to sell grapes to Banfi, which is located across the road; today, he keeps those grapes for his own wine. Look for this 2001 Brunello to be at its best in 10-12 years.

BOLGHERI

Next came two wines from Campo alla Sughera in Bolgheri. What makes Bolgheri so unique among Italy’s wine zones is the fact that Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot are the principal ones planted here instead of inidgenous varieties. While there is some Sangiovese in Bolgheri, this is a Tuscan wine area not dominated by that grape. 

These two wines from this underrated estate showed quite well; the “Adeo” is a medium-full blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot that has ample oak with elegant tannins and beautiful acidity. This 2007 bottling ($40 retail) will drink well for 5-7 years. The “Arnione”, a Bolgheri Superiore, is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Deeper in color  and richer on the palate than the previous wine, this is quite rich with youthful, elegant tannins and a round, flavorful finish. This 2005 bottling is quite impressive and at $80 retail is a nice alternative to many bottlings of Bolgheri Superiore from other estates that cost well over $100 per bottle.

BARBERA

While the typical Barbera from Piemonte is a medium-bodied, slightly spicy red with very little tannins and lively acidity that makes for a pleasant food wine, there are examples of this variety that are quite special. For the past two decades, doznes of producers in Asti have been focusing on riper, more deeply extracted wines that are aged in small oak barrels. These “serious” bottlings of Barbera d’Asti are quite different from the traditional bottlings of this variety.

As for Barbera d’Alba, most producers still make bottlings that are more like the wines their parents made. Yet at least one producer concentrates on ultra special examples of Barbera. At Vietti, winemaker Luca Currado produces two bottlings from the Scarrone vineyard at his estate; a normale and a Vigna Vecchia (old vine). As the vineyard was planted in the 1920s, even the normale is made from grapes that are 70-75 years of age, while the Vigna Vecchia is truly special, it is made from the oldest part of the vineyard, from vines that are 80-85 years of age. 

I tasted out the 2004 bottling and the wine is outstanding with deep purple color (as though it had just been bottled) and aromas of ripe plum and blackberry. Full-bodied, this is simply delicious and the finish is ultra smooth with very light tannins and very good acidity. It’s a real crowd pleaser (everyone at the tasting loved it) and Craig Perman, owner of the store, told me he thought it was a “fun wine to drink.” I loved his comment, as at the end of the day, statistics and points realy don’t matter; it’s about what wines taste the best. (You’ll not have much luck finding the 2004, but the 2006 and recently released 2007 bottlings of this wine may be available in your market. As you might imagine, this is a very limited bottling and is expensive – around $80 – but it is quite an experience!)

Vineyards in the Barolo zone looking towards La Morra (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

BARBARESCO/ BAROLO

Our final “B” wines in this class were Barbaresco and Barolo, both made exclusively from Nebbiolo. Both wines are produced from vineyards near the city of Alba in the province of Cuneo in Piemonte; Barbaresco from three towns east of Alba and Barolo from eleven towns south of Alba. 

Barbaresco is generally more approachable upon release than Barolo, as the soils here are younger than those from Barolo and thus yield wines with less firm tannins. Everything is relative of course, as even a simple Barbaresco tends to drink well for 5-7 years after its vintage, while the best single vineyard offerings are enjoyable 15-20 years after release. Barolo on the other hand often ages well past its 20th birthday, while a simple bottling blended from several vineyards is often at is best 7-10 years after the vintage.

For Barbaresco, we tasted out two bottlings from the famous producer Ceretto; the current 2006 “Asij” and the 2001 “Bricco Asili” were the choices. The Asij is a lighter style that is a wonderful introduction to Barbaresco; it is a blend of grapes from Asili and another Ceretto holding, Bernadot in Treiso as well as other vineyards. This 2006 had the textbook orange peel, caraway and sandalwood aromas that I love so much about Barbaresco! This should drink well for the next 5-7 years – it’s also very reasonable priced at $45.

The 2001 “Bricco Asili” offered the wonderful balasamic aromas you get in older bottlings of Nebbiolo-based wines. This wine had excellent depth of fruit, finely tuned acidity and impeccable balance. 2001 was an outstanding year for Barbaresco and Barolo – this Asili bottling from Ceretto should drink well for another decade.

For Barolo, we started with the 2005 Villero from Oddero, an excellent tradiitonal producer located near La Morra. There are several bottlings of Barolo produced each year at Oddero, this Villero has rich fruit, subtle oak and beautiful acidity. This is a very well made example of a 2005 Barolo; it is not a powerhouse, but rather a more subdued offering with excellent complexity. This is one of the treasures of Barolo like this in that it is not super ripe or forward, rather it displays its charms in a restrained way. This should be at its best in 12-15 years.

We finished with the 2001 La Serra Barolo from Gianni Voerzio. The brother of acclaimed Barolo producer, Roberto Voerzio, Gianni makes only this one Barolo each vintage, but deserves as much praise as his sibling in terms of quality. This 2001 bottling is particularly distinctive with great fruit concentration along with refined tannins and persistence in the finish. This is an impressive wine that seemed younger than its true age. This was one of the top two wines in the class; certainly this wine, from the great 2001 vintage, has 15-20 years of life ahead of it.

This was certainly a highlights version of great Italian reds, as no one can sum up this category with only a handful of wines. But the lineup did offer a look into the variety and outstanding quality offered in Italy today. While these wine types are among the world’s finest, you begin to realize that even at $60-$150 for some of these wines, they are worth it!

ADDENDA

 For those of you living in the Chicago area, do stop in to see Craig Perman at his wine store. While he does sell wines such as these, he specializes in lesser-known (and usually lesser expensive bottlings). So you’ll discover some excellent values from Italian regions such as Marche, Abruzzo and Liguria as well as some beautifully priced bottlings from Tuscany and Piemonte as well. And of course, simiilar wines from France, California, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, et al. Craig chooses wines that interest him and offer value – he’s an invaluable part of the Chicago wine scene and he’s become a trusted wine advisor to a lot of wine lovers in the area.

For those of you interested in being in the know about my future wine classes or wish to subscribe to my GUIDE TO ITALIAN WINES, please click here

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‘Great to drink with hamburgers or pizza’ –Bogle Vineyards

I cannot even remember which of their wines was graced by this recommendation, but I do remember, as a college student, being highly amused by the candor of their suggestion.  More wines should bill themselves this way.

Most Americans think that beer is the perfect accompaniment to pizza.  While there is no denying the satisfaction of a good clean lager and a hot slice of pizza, I would urge you to think beyond beer to wine.  A light, acidic red wine can cut through the rich topping of cheese and complement the tangy, clean tomato layer.  That said, many wines are not well suited to pizza—too many tannins, too much floral aroma, I could go on and on.  But when you find the right wine with pizza, well you have magic.

Barbera is indigenous to the region of Piedmont, which is adjacent to both France and Switzerland. Piedmont translates to the foot of the mountains: it is surrounded on three sides by the Alps.  Unsurprisingly, it consists largely of foothills and mountains.  For centuries Piedmont was a strategic asset in the political maneuvers of European powers.  The French annexed it in 1801, the Congress of Vienna then used it to buffer central Europe from the French, and finally Piedmont itself attempted to unify Italy.  A vast land rich in agriculture, Piedmont produces fantastic wines.  Barolo and Barbaresco, both made from Nebbiolo, are probably the most famous of these wines.

Barbera could be seen as a country cousin if it were simply a less refined version of the Nebbiolo grape. It does not require or command the fanfare of the previous two.  A long growing season in a cool region creates high acidity, which is why it is so well suited for a pizza pairing.  The tomato sauce does not render the wine flaccid; the tangy tomato shines when matched with the warm acidity of a fruity, young Barbera.  Depending on the specific appellation of Barbera, this an indication of altitude and length of growing season, the flavors of Barbera can range from the lighter side—red cherries, blueberries, and tart red raspberries—to a riper expression of blackberry.

The third most widely planted grape in Italy, Barbera is also grown in California, Australia, and Argentina.  The Barbera appellation in Piedmont has several subregions, including Barbera d’Asti, which received DOCG status in 2008.  Barbera d’Alba also produces fine wines, usually a bit darker with deeper fruit flavours.

The next time you’re ordering pizza, grab a bottle of Barbera to go along with it.  The best thing is that it could well cost less than the pizza.

Científicos de todos los puntos de España están asombrados por el nuevo hallazgo del nuevo bedel de La Moncloa. Según afirma, estaba barriendo las primeras hojas secas del otoño cuando un nauseabundo olor le condujo hasta una cueva. Pensó que se trataba de un vertedero ideal o el almacén de los documentos secretos del PP de Valencia, pero al entrar encontró algo terrible e hizo una foto con el móvil. Octavavida ha accedido en exclusiva al contenido de esa fotografía.

Un comunicado oficial de la Mona Vicepresidenta De la Vega ha desmentido este descubrimiento y este tipo de elucubraciones, la vicepresidenta indica que se trata del cuarto de las hijas de Zapatero que estaban reunidas con unos amigos haciendo botellón. El presidente se ha sentido muy molesto por la actitud del bedel, que ha sido relegado a uno de los peores destinos de toda la historia de la Democracia, será asistente de maquillaje de Esperanza Aguirre, tendrá que untar crema observar como se pone desodorante y cargar con una carretilla todos los kilos de pote que Espe use… aunque ya hay un psicólogo tratando la depresión postraumática de este servidor de los intereses sociales.

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