Being an orderly sort of soul, in general I much prefer to go to themed tasting, rather than a broad sweep across regions.  Comparison is a very powerful tool but I would rather limit the field and try to learn a bit more about an area or grower in depth.   Occasionally you get the best of both worlds, as happened at a recent Coe Vintners tasting, which took place at Home House, a private club in Portland Square.  Billed as a fine wine tasting, it certainly lived up to that with quality wines from Champagne and Alsace, Bordeaux, Burgundy, a few Italians and Spaniards and even the occasional Australian.  But the star of the show was undoubtedly Olivier Humbrecht of whom more anon. 

In the general tasting some tables really stood out: 

Sumptuous Champagne from Pannier and from Dampierre.  I particularly enjoyed 1999 Pannier Egerie and the corresponding non-vintage Rose.  The latter has a lovely raspberry and strawberry nose, balanced fruit and refreshment, delicious.  The 1999 has good freshness alongside some interesting, mushroomy tones, a nice weight in the mouth  I was less enamoured of the Pannier Blanc de Noir, ie made as white wine from the juice of black grapes. It was certainly distinctive with yeasty, even doughy smells to the fore.  Dampierre was also excellent, especially the Family Reserve Grand Cru, 2000: toasty, hazelnuts, good fruit and very long.  Altogether much better value than the Taittinger Comtes des Champagnes, white of 1998 (still tasted rather closed) and the rose of 2002.  Of course if someone else has the wines in their cellar and the patience, that might be another matter entirely …

I also tried the Barolo and Barbaresco from Giacosa Fratelli, not least because I had bought a mixed case of these for a forthcoming tasting.  Overall conclusion was that they really need time to get out of their rather rustic youth (the two basic wines) though the 2005 Barolo Bussia has already has some perfume to offer.   A tasting in 2014-20 anyone?  This was even more the case with promising red Burgundy, eg PC Clos de Thorey Monopole, Nuit St Georges, 2006 from Antonin Rodet – I could taste the youthful acidity hours later!  But in ten years time it will be wonderful. 

No need for delayed gratification, however, with the wines of Zind-Humbrecht, though most of them too will develop with age.  Olivier Humbrecht was showing a great range of wines, 13 in all.  I concentrated on the ones that were new to me, especially from the Clos Windsbuhl vineyard.  The firm’s comment is:

“The Clos Windsbuhl is, with the Rangen vineyard, the least precocious site that we cultivate on the estate. The higher altitude, the old rocky calcareous soil, its location near the forest all participate to create a slow ripening process. Often criticized in the past for this characteristic, we think that on the contrary, it helps the grapes to keep a structure based on acidity and not alcohol, and also that the vines have more time to ripen the grape physiologically.

Humbrecht explained further that the vineyard is around 300 metres above sea level, 100m higher and so cooler than most, and that it has a mixed history.  Before they bought it, the older owners had worked for quality (only really good vineyards had names historically in Alsace) but then there was neglect, overplanting, overproduction in recent times.  Having acquired it on the basis of its ancient reputation, they have grubbed up the new vines but kept the old ones. 

Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl 2007: made with the fruit of the old vines, this is an amazing combination of crisp fruit and structure in the mouth. Wow! 

Gewürztraminer Clos Windsbuhl Vendanges Tardive 2005 – rich, dense, even tending to oily texture from late picked picked grapes, medium sweet but with good acidity, absolutely delicious. 

Another vineyard featured was the Grand Cru Rangen de Thann, very steep (to the point that it has to be ploughed using a winch) and South facing.  In addition to the two Pinot Gris I missed in the excitement (2005, 2001), there was:

Riesling Grand Cru Rangen de Thann 2007, a superb complex nose of honey, nuts and something herby/herbaceous, rounded in the mouth, melons, ripe fruit in general, even pineapple, with a refreshing finish.  Excellent. 

I finished the Zind-Humbrecht table with Pinot Gris Heimbourg Sélection de Grains Nobles 2005, a wine with well over 100 grams of residual sugar per litre – a huge, sweet sticky, but with great marmaladely flavours and counterbalancing acidity, and great persistence. 

Un “Dolcepensiero” che leggo e guardo: sulla pay-tv al canale 416 tutto è dedicato alla cucina grazie ad ALICE; inoltre da qualche mese sono finalmente riusciuta anche a prenotare la rivista in edicola… che trovavo molto diffile da reperire!!! (almeno qui da me). Nel numero di novembre, c’è una bellisima serie di ricette dedicate alla carne abbinata a ottimi vini di STEFANO FAGIOLI: appena mio marito si è imbattutto in queste pagine, è andato in visibilio perchè 1) adora la carne 2) adora il buon vino, quindi uniti insieme sono l’estasi per lui. Ed ecco che giorni fa si è cimentato in questo brasato al barolo con discreti risultati, buonissimo mangiato anche il giorno dopo leggermente tiepido… Ma ecco la ricetta che è presa direttamente dal giornale e quindi dallo chef  Fagioli… di mio ci sono le foto (che non sono venute proprio belle ed artistiche, ma con un bimbo giocherellone come il mio…)!

INGREDIENTI PER SEI PERSONE:

1,2 kg. di noce di manzo

1 litro di barolo

100 grammi di lardo

50 grammi di farina

3 carote

2 cipolle

1 costa di sedano

1 spicchio di aglio

2 foglie di alloro

1 rametto di rosmarino

bacche di ginepro

noce moscata

3-4 chiodi di garofano

1 pezzetto di cannella

olio extravergine d’oliva

sale e pepe.

PREPARAZIONE

Incidete la carne con un coltello appuntito e affilato e inserite nelle incisioni il lardo tagliato a listarelle. Disponete la carne in un recipiente che la contenga a misura, profumatela con una grattata abbondante di noce moscata, una manciata di pepe, i chiodi di garofano, la cannella e le bacche di ginepro e pressatela leggermente.

Bagnate con il barolo (la carne dovrà essere completamente ricoperta), coprite con un foglio di plastica trasparente e lasciatela marinare per due giorni in frigorifero, girandola ogni tanto.

Trascorso il tempo scolatela (tenendo da parte la marinata), passatela nella farina e fatela rosolare a fuoco medio in una pirofila con 4-5 cucchiai di olio extravergine di oliva. Nel frattempo tritate insieme carote, cipolle, sedano e aglio. Quando la carne sarà dorata in modo uniforme, unite la marinatura, il trito misto, l’alloro e gli aghi di rosmarino e proseguite la cottura a fuoco vivace finchè il fondo si sarà ridotto. A questo punto versate l’acqua bollente necessaria a coprirla, incoperchiate, diminuite l’intensità del fuoco al minimo e proseguite la cottura per circa due ore.

Al termine scolate la carne, tagliatela a fette sottili e servitela velata con il suo sugo di cottura passato al passaverdura e filtrato. Personalmente quando gusto piatti come questo brasato, accompagno sempre la pietanza con della caldissima polenta…

di Stefano Fagioli – ALICE rivista mese di novembre 2009

H O M E

B  L  O  G

Tasting-arviot ovat jääneet Viinipirussa kuluneina viikkoina lehtolapsen kiittämättömään asemaan. Tämä johtunee rajallisten resurssien allokaatiosta viiniportfolion akuuteimmille osa-alueille (pääseekö näillä puheilla myymään osakkeita?), mutta on rehellisyyden nimissä seurausta myös jonkin sortin tylsistymisestä viininmaistelun tematiikkaan.

Avaan hieman ajatusta. Aromikomponenttien ja viinin vivahteiden kirjaaminen tuntuu hetkittäin lähtäkohdiltaan vaillinaiseksi tuomitulta yritykseltä kuvata hienoviritteistä todellisuutta työkaluilla, jotka eivät tee oikeutta sanan säilän huiskuttelijalle, puhumattakaan toiminnan kohteesta, viinistä, jota tulisi kielen keinoin purkittaa kuin säilykelihaa. Kieli nimittäin, kaikessa hienoudessaan, toimii usein kirurgisen skalpellimaisuuden sijasta tylppäkärkisen vasaran herkkyydellä, mikä on huono lähtökohta tarkkuutta vaativalle työskentelylle, kuten viinin arvioinnille.

Mistä lääke vitsaukseen? Se löytynee omien kirjoitustaitojen hiomisesta sekä asiantilasta juontuvan epämääräisyyden sietämisen harjoittelusta. Tästä varsin tylppäteräisestä kielen kritiikistä kuitenkin itse asiaan, eli tämänkertaiseen viiniarvioon.

Giacomo Fenocchion barolo on ollut Alkon hyllyvalikoimissa ja useamman vuoden ajan. Syystäkin. Tämä edullinen Barolo ei ole lainkaan hääppöinen hintatasoonsa nähden, päinvastoin: se tarjoaa tinkimättömän barolokokemuksen tyhjentämättä lompakkoa. Tuottajana Fenocchio nauttii monien Barolo-friikkien arvostusta, koska viinit valmistetaan perinteisellä otteella. Äänekkäimpiä kannattajia lienee Alice Feiring, joka vahvistaa pirullisen pippurisella olemuksellaan vanhan viisauden punatukkaisten naisten ja paratiisin ongelmallisesta suhteesta, vaikka tietääkin baroloiden kohdalla, mistä puhuu.

Fenocchion väri taittaa reunoilta aavistuksen granaattiin, jossa on punaisuuden lisäksi aavistus ruskeaan taittavia sävyjä. Lasin reunaa kiertää läpikuultava lieriömäinen vanne, mikä on tyypillinen piirre herkkähipiäiselle Nebbiolo-rypäleelle ja viestii ikääntymisestä.

Ensimmäisellä nuuhkaisulla viini on täynnä vadelmaa, päällekäyvällä tavalla. Tovin dekantoimisen jälkeen tuoksu avautuu ja vadelma tekee hienovaraisemmille aromeille sijaa. Nokkaan nousevat parfyyminen ruusunterälehti, suklaakonvehti, terva ja neilikka. Maustevetoinen viini.

Kulautettaessa Fenocchio 2003 paljastuu klassiseksi baroloksi: se on karpaloon taittava, suutuntumaltaan silkkinen, profiililtaan elegantti jopa hentouteen asti, mutta tanniineiltaan järeä ja hapoiltaan piukka. Kokonaisuutena viini on maukas ja pitkänpuoleinen, mutta hyötyisi viidestä lisävuodesta kaapissa.

Kuten niin monet muut barolot, Fenocchio 2003 on Pirulle enemmän tuoksuttelu- kuin maisteluviini. Sen aromien kompleksisuus ei toisiinnu maussa. Ilman ruokaa se on kuin kolikko, jolla ei ole toista puolta. Tasting-tilanteiden vastainen ominaistyyli ei kuitenkaan ole baroloiden vika. On hyvä, että maailmasta löytyy tyylejä, joita ei ole räätälöity loistamaan hätäisissä ammattilaistastingeissa. Jos kuningas-barolon haluaa kesyttää, pöytään on nostettava lihaisampaa apetta. Tällöin balanssi viinin ja ruoan välillä löytyy näennäisellä vaivattomuudella. Suosittelen.

(full report pending)

The wines we tasted were:

2006 Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference, Amarone della Valpolicella (Sainsbury’s, £14.69)

2004 Massimo Romeo, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Berry Bros. & Rudd, £15.70)

2006 Querciabella, Chianti Classico (Waitrose, £16.99)

2004 Argiano, Brunello di Montalcino (Negozio Classica, £38.99)

2004 Rocca di Montegrossi ‘Geremia’, Toscana IGT (Handford Wines, £31.95)

2006 Cantina del Pino, Barbaresco (Waitrose, £24.99)

2005 Paolo Conterno, Barolo (Negozio Classica, £39.99)

Here is another of my Top 100 producers in Italy.

Painting of Cavallotto Bottle by Hannes Hofstetter

One of the seminal producers of Barolo is the Cavallotto family of Castiglione Falletto. Established in 1948 by Olivio Cavallotto, the operations are run today by his offspring, siblings Alfio, Giuseppe and Laura, who continue to make wines that are shining examples of terroir.

The key to their wines – as with any producer – emerges from the vineyards and the Cavallotto family’s prized site is Bricco Boschis, which sits on a hillside in Castglione Falletto, overlooking much of the Barolo zone. Several red wines are produced from this vineyard, including Grignolino, Freisa and Barbera, but the various offerings of Barolo offer the best evidence of the superior quailty of this vineyard.

Each year a regular bottling of Bricco Boschis Barolo is bottled, while in the finest vintages, a Riserva bottling, labeled Vigna San Giuseppe, is produced. Both of these Barolos, as well as the Riserva bottling from the adjacent Vignolo vineyard are excellent examples of wines that perfectly display their terroir.

A principal reason for this is the decision to only use grandi botti for aging the wines, which allows the fruit to shine through with minimal wood influence. Combine this traditional way of winemaking along with low yields on immaculately farmed sites and you have a recipe for greatness. Even a humble Piemontese red such as Grignolino is an unqualified success, as the Cavallotto bottling offers more depth of fruit and greater complexity than almost any other example of this variety.

But the Barolos from Bricco Boschis are what truly define Cavallotto as one of the greatest producers in Italy. Offering gorgeous cherry and raspberry fruit along with hints of nutmeg and cedar, the wines are quite full in the mouth; elegantly crafted tannins and pinpoint acidity give the wines a remarkable silkiness. The regular bottling of Bricco Boschis Barolo is always striking, while the Vigna San Giuseppe is even better; more deeply concentrated and structured for 20-25 years of cellaring – and in some vintages, such as the glorious 2001 – perhaps as long as 30 or 40 years. This is one of the great bottlings of Barolo and you owe it to yourself to try at least one vintage of this wine to understand what classic Barolo is all about!

One final note about these wines is that they are ideal for food. The family does not make wines to garner high ratings or please the market; rather they make wines that are perfect representations of their site. I have tasted Cavallotto Barolo with any number of dishes, be it roast duck, braised rabbit or even river trout and have been mesmerized by how well the wine works with each food. Given that the Piemontese are idealists when it comes to pairing their wines with the local cuisine, this is about as high a praise I can offer!

The best wines of Cavallotto include:

• Grignolino (Piemonte DOC)
• Dolcetto d’Alba “Vigna Scot”
• Barbera d’Alba “Bricco Boschis – Vigna Cucolo”
• Langhe Nebbiolo “Bricco Boschis”
• Barolo “Bricco Boschis”
• Barolo “Bricco Boschis – Vigna San Giuseppe” Riserva
• Barolo “Vignolo” Riserva

A tad late at Malpensa in Milano, we still got to Vietti in Castiglione Falletto before closing time.  And althought we did not get to taste either the Lazzarito nor the La Crena, we experienced enough to understand why Vietti is knocking on the door of the really great ones.  The surprise of the tasting was their 05 Barbaresco.  It does not get much press due to their other great wines, but a well above average Barbaresco at a reasonable price (Note: two days later we ate at their neighboring restaurant Le Torri, and accompanying great food was the immacculate La Crena from 04).

Bruno Giacosa was up the next morning.  A true champagne breakfast it was, with their Spumante at 0900 hrs followed by their Roero Arneis, Barolos and Barbarescos. Highlight here was the 89 Red Label Barbaresco Asili. A privilege to have tasted. Truly.

From the 400 000 bottle production and industry-like facility in Neive, we went to Gianfranco Allessandria in Monforte.  Almost the opposite on the scale in appearance, but not so with their wines.  The 05 San Giovanni Barolo is as good as any they’ve produced, and the Vittoria Barbera d’Alba is up there with the best Barberas.

Other than the aforementioned La Torri restaurant in Castiglione Falletto, we ate at Fior di Sale in Dogliani, Osteria Veglio and More e Macine in La Morra, and La Libera in Alba. the 3 ladder eateries for the first time.  Fior di Sale was just like our first visit this summer, just more crowded.  Knocking on Michelin’s door for sure. Osteria Veglio was everything as advertised, and if in Alba you should not miss the La Libera.  As for More e Macine it’s almost like a cafe, but theirTiramisu beat the ones we had the other Osterias and restaurants

.

Top wine:  04 La Crena from Vietti for lunch at La Torri. Best eatery: Fior di Sale.  Best tiramisu: More e Macine.

Det blir faktiskt alldeles tyst i källaren på Lidingö. Pratet, skratten, klangen från kuporna som hamnar för nära varandra på det trånga bordet, tolv människors uppsluppenhet och gemenskapsljud dör som när man stänger av köksfläkten. Det sjudande rummet stillnar i en samtidig inåtvänd vördnad, en plötslig ödmjukhet.

Sakta tar tvånget att dela upplevelsen tillbaka initiativet:

-Jävlar… jävlar…

Ingen av oss visste väl riktigt vad vi stod inför den här kvällen. En del erfarenhet av barolo och barbaresco med lite ålder på fanns det, men en föreställning med tio flaskor från 1971 och biljetter på första raden var svår att föreställa sig. För mig som sätter nebbiolo högst av allt var drömmarna guldskimrande – samtidigt som bubblan kunde spricka med en smäll som skulle höras ända till Castiglione Falletto.

Nektaren som fick tyst på de tolv dök upp redan i första flighten. Ni har redan läst/läst: Enrico Giovannini Moresco skördade sent i Pajorégården i Treiso, höll skördeuttaget lågt redan 1971 – och bjöd Angelo Gaja på en slurk. Kejsaren av Piemonte köpte sedan loss marken av Moresco, och vi har turen att känna Niklas som finkammar Europa och plockar hem en original-Pajoré från 1971. Doften är lätt men tät, spetsigt fokuserad fräsch rödfrukt, utmognad men med en hel del oförstörd jordgubbig barnacharm. Lägg till lite sojamognad, muscovado och lite motstånd från sötkärv rönnbärsgelé, och tryck på paus.

Men det är i munnen som Moresco slänger sitt tunga sammetstäcke över dussinet vinhundar i källaren. Perfekt struktur, obeskrivlig munkänsla – kanske den finaste jag har känt, kanske bara på en nivå där man slutar jämföra. Är fruktkärnan åtta år gammal, eller 38? Intensitet, kraft och elegans i samma centiliter. Ålderssötman ger jordgubbarna guldkant, den där rönnbärsgelén kompletterar. Svansen klingar ut i mineralitet pyntad med torkade rosor och en droppe tjära och viskar kvar en minut senare. Consummatum est.

Ändå gick det att argumentera för andra viner som kvällens guldmedaljör. Pio Cesares sjuttioetta var i toppform, kryddig och barrskogstonad, med fantastisk frukt i munnen, underbara tanniner och arkitektur över all kritik. Kicken av rökig tjära i eftersmaken lyste upp slutet som en fackla. Bara den där gudomliga munkänslan avgör för Moresco i mitt minne. Eller varför inte Marcarinis vin, från rikfruktiga Brunate i vackra La Morra: tuff, ungdomligt efter 38 år, med en härlig blommighet i näsan och ett fantastiskt fruktspektrum från hallon till plommon.

Jag kunde förstås rabbla upp alla tio, kanske minus några TCA-dräpta. Men jag måste ge plats åt några glas ur den långa raden före och efter den piemontesiska dekalogen. Som Kellers 2007 Hubacker: sensationellt fin Rheinhessenriesling, lång, lång smak av utvalda äpplen och mineral i ett perfekt bygge. När jag sade 2001 på en chianti från 1990 var det lätt att spika producenten, för det är bara Castell’ in Villa i hela Toskana som utvecklas så långsamt. Giacomo Conterno bekräftade tesen att de bästa klarade av även min hackårgång 2003; Cascina Francia hade generösa jordgubbar, framträdande kryddighet och drag av cassis, med kalkiga citrussyror för att möta den dominanta sötfrukten. Det blev ingen Monfortino 2003, och Cascina Francia tackade och tog emot materialet.

Vin nummer 22: Spetsad druvmust (tänk pineau des Charentes eller Juras macvin), pomerans och andra julkryddor, russin; mer specifikt den färska doften ur ett nyöppnat Sunmaidpaket. Smeksamt i munnen med stort uttryck, tätt och druvigt, mycket sött. Slarviga anteckningar. Rätt lätt och smidigt ändå för ett fortifierat vin, kanske grenachebaserat från Roussillon?

Nä - 1982 Quinta do Noval Nacional. Tack och godnatt.

//anders

PS: Tack Niklas för bilderna. Och just det – några liter nebbiolo på 40-strecket, ett dussin bonusviner toppat med en osannolik Nacional, absurt goda leverspett, musslor och din källares vanliga varma camaraderie. Mm, tack för det också.

PS 2: Inte länkad i texten: Winepunker.

It’s that time of year again.  Tourists are at home, and the Piemontese go tartofo hunting in the month of November.  We’ll be tagging along on Saturday, with fingers crossed.  Some lunches and dinners are already booked. We are trying out the Osteria Veglio in La Morra and Osteria La Libera in Alba for the first time.  And going back to the wonderful new restaurant in Dogliani – Fior di Sale.  Although trouffles and food are the primary focus of this visit, one cannot go to the Langhe and not visit some of the great wineries.  This time we’re visiting with this year’s Winery of the Year (Bruno Giacosa), the people behind one of my favourite Barberas (the La Crena from Vietti), and Gianfranco Allessandria (cannot wait to taste yet another vintage of his San Giovanni).  And hoping to bump into Altare at some point throughout the weekend.    Again, we are staying at one of the hidden gems of this world, the Corte Gondina Hotel.

Today I had the opportunity to meet Giuseppe Vajra from the winery G.D. Vajra in Piedmont, Italy. I have been a fan of Vajra wines for sometime so it was a great experience to meet Giuseppe today. For whatever reason, I find it intoxicating when Italian’s speak of their wines, more so than any other region.

My Tasting Notes:

2008 Langhe Bianco – 100% Riesling – floral with light citrus, and apricot notes. Lucious pear combined with great acidity at the back of the palate. Very Austrian in style of texture but the mid – palate is much “fatter”. Extremely nice!

2007 Langhe Rosso – Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo blend with 5% Pinot Noir and 2% Freisa – lots of red cherry, cola, red currant, leather notes and spice. Medium bodied with velvety tannins.

2007 Dolcetto D’ Alba – light cherry and raspberry notes with the flavor of actually berries. Red currant and cherry predominate the palate with hints of cola. Full bodied, especially for a Dolcetto – smooth tannins.

2007 Langhe Nebbiolo – leather, blackberry and “rum” on the nose. Palate full of black cherry, leather, dry dirt, hints of eucalyptus and cassis. Full body, with great acidity.

2004 Barolo – tomato leaf, rustic red fruit aromas, leather, boysenberry, blackberry and truffle oil on the palate. Fuzzy tannins and full bodied long finish. Still plenty of life, but approachable now. Beautiful!

2005 Langhe Freisa – menthol, leather and slight barnyard notes with fruit start to appear towards the back of the palate. Dark cherry and black currant predominate with some brambly fruit character and black pepper making an appearance. Lively acidity and full bodied. Excellent wine.

I spoke with Giuseppe on the ‘09 vintage and he said it was a great, but not excellent one. “Definitely couldn’t close your eyes and sleep through this vintage, we had to do some work.” For most of the harvest it was status quo but some rain in September brought about that question of “pick now or later”. They chose to pick later and after the rain passed, had an incredible week of brilliant sunshine and cooler than normal nights. This helped to raise sugar levels and increase ripeness while maintaining great acidity. “It is an extermely hard thing to watch all of your neighbors bring in their fruit, while you wait out the ’storm’.”

If you get a chance to try Vajra wines, I insist that you do – they are quite nice, and fairly priced for the region.

Cheers!

Osteria La Cantinella: Situato all’ombra del celebre castello dei Falletti , in una vera e propria cantina, arredata con gusto in ambienti impreziositi da volte a botte in mattoni a vista. Dotato anche di un accogliente dehors per l’estate. La carta dei vini è ampia e non trascura nessuna tra le migliori etichette locali; naturalmente è dominata dal Barolo di svariate annate a ritroso fino al 1982…

SE for um dia abrir um vinho especial, um dos nomes…

Desde 1979, Angelo Gaja não utiliza o nome Barolo em seus rótulos

Il 21 e 22 novembre, nel cuore delle Langhe, “Le Loro Maestà – Il Nebbiolo e Le Pinot Noir” ospiterà un originale confronto fra Langa e Borgogna. Per la prima volta 20 fra i migliori Domaine di Borgogna si presenteranno in Italia al fianco di 20 dei più rappresentativi produttori di Barolo e Barbaresco.

Per informazioni:
www.leloromaesta.it
Telefono +39 0125 633359 (orario ufficio)

Ufficio Stampa:
Gheusis Srl info@gheusis.com
Telefono: +39 0422 928954
Fax: +39 0422 928245

Date/time: 23 November, Monday, 7.45pm

Piemonte e Toscana – Nobili Vini d’Italia Leonardo da Vinci once wrote that “the discovery of a good wine is increasingly better for mankind than the discovery of a new star”. Hailing from Tuscany, he would surely know a thing or two about good wine. If Burgundy is one of the historic centres of white wine production, then Italy surely has a strong claim to being the home of old-world red wine. Indeed, wines from Tuscany and Piedmont in particular are some of the most sought-after in the world, matching even the historic châteaux of Bordeaux in quality (and of course, price). In November, we will be focusing exclusively on these two regions and learning why they are so globally popular. A hint: it has a lot to do with Nebbiolo and Sangiovese.

Cost: £10 per person

RSVP: glass (dot) half (dot) fulham (at) googlemail (dot) com by 13 November, Friday. Numbers are limited to 15 and will be allocated on a first-come-first-served basis.

Unfortunately, the circumstances prevented me from writing a proper restaurant review of Casa D’Oro, an Italian restaurant at the Hotel Indonesia Kempinski in Jakarta. I have to go back, eat there and write a proper review. A friend of mine says it’s the best Italian gourmet dining in Jakarta. It’s chef de cuisine, Francesco Greco, is a well accomplished master of fine cooking being just awarded the “Best Chef of 2009 in Shanghai” award.

But I can write about the wine, we had with our quick dinner. I selected a ‘2004 Barolo’ by Paolo Scavino, from Piedmont, Italy and one of the best producers of Barolo in the world. Made from Nebbiolo grapes grown in the cool climate of the Piemontese hills at the foot of the Alps, this wine has a deep red colour and is characterized by an elegant nose. Dried roses, cherries, and plums can be tasted together with herbs and dusty vanilla notes. The long finish is very impressive. The wine is of medium-body, very smooth and very well balanced. Wine experts award it 91-92 Parker points. I thoroughly enjoyed this wine.

I am so happy that I had spotted this wonderful wine on the extensive wine list of the hotel. I can only highly recommend it. Moreover, the wine was very reasonably prized.

Fenocchio Barolo Villero 2003. Ung, for ung i 2009. Bare tida vil vise om den gir valuta for pengene og glede for deg...

For to år siden begynte jeg å samle på vin. Ikke bare for å ha i hylla for at de skal ligge der til evig tid selvsagt, men for at jeg skal ha godsaker til modning over lang tid. Sånn for å kunne hente opp ei flaske godt gammel vin til ei god anledning innimellom. Smart, tenkte jeg.

Kanskje var det ikke like smart å kjøpe to flasker av denne til kjelleren? 2003-årgangen av Barolo’en til Fenocchio er jo bare seks år nå, og i utgangspunktet veldig ung for å være en Barolo. For selv om nord-italienerne visstnok har lagt om produksjonen, sånn at de kraftige godsakene basert på Nebbiolo-druen skal modne raskere, så er denne tydeligvis et unntak.

Jeg har lest en plass at Fenocchio er en av produsentene som holder igjen på gamle-måten og lager viner som modner sakte. Veldig sakte… Og det kjennes på denne seks-åringen. Det dufter av mørke bær og søte kirsebær, men når du fyller munnen er det som om noen tørker ut kjeften og legger et godt lag med grove tanniner på tennene dine.

Ikke engang når du har latt flaske stå over natta er den noe snillere. Garvestoffene river rundt i kjeften og lar deg sitte igjen med en tørr og nummen følelse….

Som sagt, seks år er ungt for en Barolo, for i gamle dager brukte disse vinene mellom 15-20 år på å bli moden. Så har du 275 kroner og god tid kan du legge den bort til den er minst 10 år gammel og prøve da. Men i dag? Prøv heller Fenocchio sin Barbera, den er både mørk og fruktig – og ikke minst moden

- Jan Fredrik

Renato Ratti Winery, Annunziata (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

A few months ago, I assembled the choices of several Italian wine authorities regarding Brunello di Montalcino. Today, we turn our attention to Barolo.

I asked some of my friends to give me their choices for best Barolos. Some opted for individual bottlings, while others merely listed producers. Some list as many as 20 examples, while one person went with only four producers.

Here are the lists:

Charles Scicolone – Author of the blog Charles Scicolone on Wine. One of America’s leading authorities on Italian wines. Wine writer and restaurant consultant. He lives in New York City.

• Cantina Bartolo Mascarello
• Giuseppe Mascarello-”Monprivato”
• Poderi Colla-’Bussia”
• Francesco Rinaldi-Cannubbio”
• Vietti SLR “Rocche”
• Giacomo Borgogno & Figli “Classico Riserva”
• Schiavenza-”-Broglio”
• Giorgio Scarzello “Vigna Merenda”
• Elvio Cogno-”Ravera”
• G. Brezza & Figli-”Sarmassa”

Franco Ziliani - One of Italy’s most influential wine writers. Manages the website barolodibarolo.com. Also writes the blog vinoalvino.org and co-writes the blog vinowire.com with Jeremy Parzen. Lives near Bergamo in Lombardia.

• Barolo Monprivato Giuseppe Mascarello Castiglione Falletto
• Barolo Cascina Francia & Monfortino Giacomo Conterno Monforte d’Alba
• Barolo Brunate Le Coste Giuseppe Rinaldi
• Barolo Vigna Rionda Massolino Serralunga d’Alba
• Barolo  Bricco Boschis Vigna San Giuseppe riserva Cavallotto Castiglione Falletto
• Barolo Bricco Sarmassa Brezza Barolo
• Barolo classico riserva Borgogno Barolo
• Barolo Rocche dei Brovia Brovia Castiglione Falletto
• Barolo Monvigliero Comm. G.B. Burlotto Verduno
• Barolo Bartolo Mascarello
• Barolo Gran Bussia riserva Aldo Conterno
• Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Maté Elio Grasso 

Craig Camp - A veteran of more than thirty years in the wine industry, Craig formerly lived near the Barolo area, organizing wine tours. He also imported Italian wines into America. Today he lives in Napa and is general manager of Cornerstone Cellars. He is an enthusiastic blogger and I recommend his WineCampBlog.

• Vajra Brolo Bricco della Viole
• Giacomo Brezza Barolo Cannubi
• Marcarini Barolo Brunate
• Marcarini Barolo La Serra
• Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate
• Poderi Colla Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose
• Brovia Barolo Ca’ Mia
• Brovia Barolo Rocche dei Brovia
• Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia
• Giacomo Conterno Barolo Monfortino
• Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto di Serralunga
• Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Falletto
• Paolo Conterno Barolo Ginestra Riserva
• Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra Vigna Casa Mate’
• Vietti Barolo Villero Riserva
• Giuseppe Moscarello Barolo Monprivato
• Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
• Teobaldo Cappellano Barolo Otin Fiorin Collina Gabutti
• Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda

Falletto Vineyard of Bruno Giacosa (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Alfonso Cevola - Italian wine importer, distributor and educator. He is the author of the blog On the Wine Trail in Italy. He currently resides in Dallas.

• Bruno Giacosa
• Giacomo Conterno
• Elvio Cogno
• Cascina Bruni

Jeremy Parzen - Wine educator and marketing consultant, he is the author of the Italian wine-themed blog DoBianchi and co-author of the blog vinowire with Franco Ziliani. He currently splits his time between Austin and San Diego.

• Anselma
• Bartolo Mascarello
• Brovia
• Bruno Giacosa
• Cappellano
• Castello di Verduno
• Cavallotto
• Francesco Rinaldi
• Giacomo Borgogno
• Giacomo Conterno
• Giacomo Fenocchio
• Giuseppe Rinaldi
• Marcarini
• Massolino
• Oddero
• Ratti
• Roagna

And finally, my choices:

First ten (in alphabetical order)

• Bartolo Mascarello
• Cavallotto Bricco Boschis “Vigna San Giuseppe Riserva”
• Ceretto “Prapo”
• Cogno “Ravera”
• Aldo Conterno “Romirasco”
• Fontanafredda “Lazzarito La Delizia”
• Elio Grasso “Chiniera Vigna Casa Maté”
• Marcarini “Brunate”
• Giuseppe Rinaldi “Brunate Le Coste”
• Vietti “Rocche”

Next ten:

• Ascheri “Sorano Coste e Bricco”
• Einaudi “Costa Grimaldi”
• Massolino “Margheria”
• Oddero “Brunate”
• Sergio Barale “Cannubi”
• Renato Ratti “Conca Marcenasco”
• Francesco Rinaldi “Brunate”
• Rocche Costamagna “Rocche dell’Annunziata – Bricco Francesco”
• Enrico Scavino “Rocche dell’Annunziata”
• Roberto Voerzio “Sarmassa”

- Tom Hyland

Two new wines arrived in stock this week

Damilano 2004 Barolo (Italy, red) – $59.90. Our first Barolo! This is a classic Italian wine and fantastic value. Tasted this recently and it punches far above its weight. You can pay a lot more for good Barolo’s but this one is worth every penny (and more).

Richmond Plains 2008 Sauvignon Blanc (NZ, white) – $23.90. Good organic Sauvignon from Nelson region, no added sulphites either. Comparable price to all the major NZ volume labels.  Nice website includes video interview with winemaker at http://www.organicwines.co.nz/

Io non ho una cucina in cui cucinare cene per gli amici, un tavolo a cui farli sedere, un ingresso in cui accoglierli sorridendo, un divano a cui farli sedere, né bicchieri né bottiglie di vino da versare nei bicchieri. Non ho una porta attraverso cui fare entrare gli amici, non ho libri o giornali o lampade o foto o ricordi, statuine, cartoline, oggettini da mostrare agli amici che tanto non posso fare entrare da una porta che non c’è e far sedere in un salotto che non ho. Non ho un letto in cui poter accogliere i miei amanti, né lenzuola in cui rotolarmi, piumini sotto cui svegliarmi la domenica mattina in inverno e fare l’amore fino a mezzogiorno o masturbarmi fino alle nove a seconda. Non ho un comodino su cui appoggiare il libro che leggo, il cellulare, l’orologio di plastica che mi sfilo dal polso. Non ho un armadio in cui appendere i miei vestiti (che ne ho pochi), un cassetto in cui allineare le mie mutande e le calze appallottolate, un ripiano su cui appoggiare il mio mascara lo spazzolino il nurofen.  Non ho un divano in un salotto né uno stereo o un televisore dove guardare portaapporta, annozero, unpostoalsole e addormentarmi per la noia guardando il giroditalia a giugno. Non ho un posto, solo la mia testa, in cui stare sola e non dover ringraziare continuamente qualcuno dell’ospitalità.

Ché una casa serve per tenere insieme il respiro e i sogni e gli amici e l’amore, il nurofen e il cellulare, santoro e il barolo e quando passate la soglia di casa queste cose voi ve le dovete ricordare.

So there I was, dining at Guido da Castigliole, a restaurant in the wine cellar of Ralais San Maurizio Hotel del Monastero, a gorgeous monastery turned hotel I was staying in during my time in Piemonte, the northwestern wine region in Italy, famed for its white truffles, cheese, but mainly… its wine.  Given the honored, but always slightly nerve-wracking, duty of choosing the wine, I began to peruse their extensive selections of Barolos and Barbarescos.  Choosing a wine does not always make me so anxious, but to give you a better idea, I was one of three in a meeting with Jonathan Vaughters, director sportif of Garmin Slipstream procycling, and Angelo Zomegnan, director of the Giro d’Italia.  Not only that, but Mr. Zomegnan knew his country’s wine.  When I alluded to Barbaresco, he simply said, ‘Eh, it’s okay.’  Say no more.  That was code for ‘go Barolo’.  And so I did.

I decided on a wine my colleague and well-known Master Sommelier, Richard Betts, suggested I try if I had the chance by Serralunga producer Bruno Giacosa.  No time seemed better to heed that advice.  I decided upon a 1998 Giacosa Falletto Barolo, as this was a year that fell in between the famous six-year vintage stretch for the region (1996-2001).  I figured this would likely be starting to drink quite well.

My instincts we right.  This beauty was just beginning her life.

Nebbiolo, one of the most frustrating, fascinating varietals, really thrives in Piemonte.  The dense fog and temperature differentials make it a perfect climate for this late to ripen grape.  To me, Nebbiolo is that tough love mother of five boys.   She is a bit hard to get to know, rough around the edges at first, strong exterior, angular, stubborn, steadfast, and firm in her ways.  Her personality comes off a bit restrained.  She insists upon respect without using the words.  With age, however, she softens… her center loosens and at once a melodious string of notes can be heard.

With a little time in the bottle, this forceful, tannic ’98 Giacosa was able to soften up.  It was coming together and presenting a classic bouquet of dried rose petals and tar, the dead ringer characteristics of this noble grape.  The fruit was full, the spice lingered, and the finish would not fade well in to the third or fourth minute upon swallowing.  It has only begun its life of drinkability… only begun to share its song with the world.

All were more than pleased, so I was relieved… and utterly grateful for this rare opportunity to be in the heart of the region with a grape that has mine.

Das Training gestern war problemlos zu meistern. Kein Schwächegefühl oder dergleichen. 1175 Kcal verbraucht und alles ohne Hungergefühl im Anschluss. Freue mich darüber, denn auch den Abend davor habe ich Sport gemacht. Bei einem intensiven Badminton-Match verbrenne ich mit Polar-Uhr gemessene 800 Kcal.

Herbstgenuss. Foto: Pixelio/Rainer Sturm

Dennoch hat es nur zu 4 Drinks gereicht. Das Glas Barolo zähle ich als einen Beutel. Auf den Genuss ganz zu verzichten kann ich mir (noch) nicht vorstellen. Vielleicht ist das auch nicht nötig. Auch heute habe ich das so gehandhabt. Auf dem Bonner Marktplatz war der Stand mit frisch gepressten Fruchtsäften einfach zu verführerisch. So ersetze ich wohl auch einen Drink mit diesem kulinarischen Ereignis. Was auch gut geklappt hat: Während ich meinen Kartoffel-Lauch-Drink zu mir nahm, hat meine Frau ihr leckeres Gericht vor meinen Augen (und Nase) zu sich genommen. Auch sonst keinerlei Beschwerden. Zuversichtlich blicke ich auf die nächsten 90 Tage.

Il nove di ottobre ho partecipato ad una splendida cena nella foresteria dei Marchesi di Barolo, la cena era dedicata all’incontro (non scontro) fra birra e vino con ospite d’onore il sigaro Toscano a chiudere la serata con abbinamenti interessanti. La cena è cominciata verso le nove, circa 60 gli ospiti fra cui l’assessore al commercio della Città di Torino, Anna ed Ernesto Abbona (Marchesi di Barolo) e Teo Musso (Birra Baladin).

Abbiamo cominciato con terrina di carne con speck , morbida e aggraziata e poi una schiacciatina di robiola con cannella, erba cipollina e aceto balsamico perfetta per gli accompagnamenti: Barbaresco Serragrilli 2006 Marchesi di Barolo e Birra Super Baladin in versione jeroboam allietati dal racconto dei vini e della birra da parte di Ernesto Abbona e Teo Musso.

A seguire in abbinamento con barolo Vigne di Proprietà 2004  Marchesi di Barolo e la birra Elixir Baladin sempre in Jeroboam uno spendido risotto al Barolo chinato e un equilibratissimo coq au vin.

Prima dei dolci abbiamo servito e acceso un Toscano originale Selected e oltre al fondente al cioccolato e hai cioccolatini e favette alla birra dell’Offelleria Rizzati lo abbiamo accompagnato con diversi prodotti:

Moscato Passito e Barolo Chinato Marchesi di Barolo e birra  Xyayou e  Xfumé Baladin testando diverse possibilità degustative con il sigaro, ma tutte accompagnate dalla nota dolce che stiamo cercando allorquando il sapido Toscano ci ha allappato la bocca.

In definitiva è stata una bellissima serata, molto lunga, sono andato a letto verso le tre del mattino, ma ne è valsa veramente la pena.

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Tidligere nevnte Renato Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2004 har nå blitt satt ned fra 289,- til 240,- på Vinmonopolet, og fremstår nå som et enda bedre kjøp! Her er våre notater fra august i år:

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Ratti Barolo Marcenasco 2004, #30322, kr. 240,-

Deilig duft av rød frukt, moreller og blåbær, rose, skogbunn og lær. Hint av anis, harpiks og røyk. Frisk frukt som følger duften, med pen syre og tørre tanniner. Lang, tørr og syrlig ettersmak. Vil tjene på noen år i kjelleren.

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Rattis Marcenasco Conca 2004 blir også satt ned til 350,- fra 419,-.

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Eirik

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Winter Vineyard Scene, Bolgheri (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

Text and photos ©Tom Hyland

This past week I conducted a class at Perman Wine Selections in Chicago that included some of Italy’s finest and most famous wine types. I dubbed the class “Italy’s Killer B’s”; the wines tasted were examples of Brunello, Bolgheri, Barbera, Barbaresco and Barolo. 

These are classic reds and I wanted to taste out various styles of these wines along with different vintages and see how these wines develop in the bottle. Starting with Brunello, we had the 2004 Poggio di Sotto and the 2001 Fossacolle. Both are small estates of very high quality and their wines showed quite well. This was especially true of the Poggio di Sotto, which offered explosive fruit aromas and great concentration. This is a traditional producer that uses only large casks (botti grandi) to age their Brunello. The praise for this wine by the class members was unanimous; for me it is an exceptional Brunello that should age well for another 12-15 years. I think it is one of the finest of all the bottlings of Brunello from the excellent 2004 vintage.

The 2001 Fossacolle also showed very well, with plenty of fruit and a nice earthiness in the finish. This is a producer that mixes modern winemaking with traditional, using both large and small oak for aging. The owner of this estate, Sergio Marchetti, used to sell grapes to Banfi, which is located across the road; today, he keeps those grapes for his own wine. Look for this 2001 Brunello to be at its best in 10-12 years.

BOLGHERI

Next came two wines from Campo alla Sughera in Bolgheri. What makes Bolgheri so unique among Italy’s wine zones is the fact that Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Merlot are the principal ones planted here instead of inidgenous varieties. While there is some Sangiovese in Bolgheri, this is a Tuscan wine area not dominated by that grape. 

These two wines from this underrated estate showed quite well; the “Adeo” is a medium-full blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot that has ample oak with elegant tannins and beautiful acidity. This 2007 bottling ($40 retail) will drink well for 5-7 years. The “Arnione”, a Bolgheri Superiore, is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot. Deeper in color  and richer on the palate than the previous wine, this is quite rich with youthful, elegant tannins and a round, flavorful finish. This 2005 bottling is quite impressive and at $80 retail is a nice alternative to many bottlings of Bolgheri Superiore from other estates that cost well over $100 per bottle.

BARBERA

While the typical Barbera from Piemonte is a medium-bodied, slightly spicy red with very little tannins and lively acidity that makes for a pleasant food wine, there are examples of this variety that are quite special. For the past two decades, doznes of producers in Asti have been focusing on riper, more deeply extracted wines that are aged in small oak barrels. These “serious” bottlings of Barbera d’Asti are quite different from the traditional bottlings of this variety.

As for Barbera d’Alba, most producers still make bottlings that are more like the wines their parents made. Yet at least one producer concentrates on ultra special examples of Barbera. At Vietti, winemaker Luca Currado produces two bottlings from the Scarrone vineyard at his estate; a normale and a Vigna Vecchia (old vine). As the vineyard was planted in the 1920s, even the normale is made from grapes that are 70-75 years of age, while the Vigna Vecchia is truly special, it is made from the oldest part of the vineyard, from vines that are 80-85 years of age. 

I tasted out the 2004 bottling and the wine is outstanding with deep purple color (as though it had just been bottled) and aromas of ripe plum and blackberry. Full-bodied, this is simply delicious and the finish is ultra smooth with very light tannins and very good acidity. It’s a real crowd pleaser (everyone at the tasting loved it) and Craig Perman, owner of the store, told me he thought it was a “fun wine to drink.” I loved his comment, as at the end of the day, statistics and points realy don’t matter; it’s about what wines taste the best. (You’ll not have much luck finding the 2004, but the 2006 and recently released 2007 bottlings of this wine may be available in your market. As you might imagine, this is a very limited bottling and is expensive – around $80 – but it is quite an experience!)

Vineyards in the Barolo zone looking towards La Morra (Photo ©Tom Hyland)

BARBARESCO/ BAROLO

Our final “B” wines in this class were Barbaresco and Barolo, both made exclusively from Nebbiolo. Both wines are produced from vineyards near the city of Alba in the province of Cuneo in Piemonte; Barbaresco from three towns east of Alba and Barolo from eleven towns south of Alba. 

Barbaresco is generally more approachable upon release than Barolo, as the soils here are younger than those from Barolo and thus yield wines with less firm tannins. Everything is relative of course, as even a simple Barbaresco tends to drink well for 5-7 years after its vintage, while the best single vineyard offerings are enjoyable 15-20 years after release. Barolo on the other hand often ages well past its 20th birthday, while a simple bottling blended from several vineyards is often at is best 7-10 years after the vintage.

For Barbaresco, we tasted out two bottlings from the famous producer Ceretto; the current 2006 “Asij” and the 2001 “Bricco Asili” were the choices. The Asij is a lighter style that is a wonderful introduction to Barbaresco; it is a blend of grapes from Asili and another Ceretto holding, Bernadot in Treiso as well as other vineyards. This 2006 had the textbook orange peel, caraway and sandalwood aromas that I love so much about Barbaresco! This should drink well for the next 5-7 years – it’s also very reasonable priced at $45.

The 2001 “Bricco Asili” offered the wonderful balasamic aromas you get in older bottlings of Nebbiolo-based wines. This wine had excellent depth of fruit, finely tuned acidity and impeccable balance. 2001 was an outstanding year for Barbaresco and Barolo – this Asili bottling from Ceretto should drink well for another decade.

For Barolo, we started with the 2005 Villero from Oddero, an excellent tradiitonal producer located near La Morra. There are several bottlings of Barolo produced each year at Oddero, this Villero has rich fruit, subtle oak and beautiful acidity. This is a very well made example of a 2005 Barolo; it is not a powerhouse, but rather a more subdued offering with excellent complexity. This is one of the treasures of Barolo like this in that it is not super ripe or forward, rather it displays its charms in a restrained way. This should be at its best in 12-15 years.

We finished with the 2001 La Serra Barolo from Gianni Voerzio. The brother of acclaimed Barolo producer, Roberto Voerzio, Gianni makes only this one Barolo each vintage, but deserves as much praise as his sibling in terms of quality. This 2001 bottling is particularly distinctive with great fruit concentration along with refined tannins and persistence in the finish. This is an impressive wine that seemed younger than its true age. This was one of the top two wines in the class; certainly this wine, from the great 2001 vintage, has 15-20 years of life ahead of it.

This was certainly a highlights version of great Italian reds, as no one can sum up this category with only a handful of wines. But the lineup did offer a look into the variety and outstanding quality offered in Italy today. While these wine types are among the world’s finest, you begin to realize that even at $60-$150 for some of these wines, they are worth it!

ADDENDA

 For those of you living in the Chicago area, do stop in to see Craig Perman at his wine store. While he does sell wines such as these, he specializes in lesser-known (and usually lesser expensive bottlings). So you’ll discover some excellent values from Italian regions such as Marche, Abruzzo and Liguria as well as some beautifully priced bottlings from Tuscany and Piemonte as well. And of course, simiilar wines from France, California, Australia, New Zealand, Chile, et al. Craig chooses wines that interest him and offer value – he’s an invaluable part of the Chicago wine scene and he’s become a trusted wine advisor to a lot of wine lovers in the area.

For those of you interested in being in the know about my future wine classes or wish to subscribe to my GUIDE TO ITALIAN WINES, please click here

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Se ci si mette dal balcone di La Morra e si guarda la fuga delle colline del Barolo e del Barbaresco si vede un capolavoro del giardinaggio, le vigne disegnano tracciati come quelli dei giardini di Marella Agnelli. Bisognerebbe chiamare uno come Pejrone per migliorarle.

Così Bruno Ceretto, uno dei maggiori produttori di vini langaroli, in una intervista a La Repubblica Torino di sabato 28 ottobre 2009, a proposito della candidatura delle Langhe a patrimonio dell’Umanità dell’Unesco. Ma, ahimé, quanta stupida confusione su che cos’è bello per sua natura e quanto è costruito dall’uomo, e quanta insopportabile spocchia (e un che di piaggeria) nel nominare i due personaggi che in Piemonte fan tanto provincia blasé. Sarebbe auspicabile che Ceretto tacesse e continuasse a fare invecchiare strepitose botti di barolo. Nel qual caso, e solo in quello, salut!