Wouldn’t it be nice to be 100% confident that your dog will stay in your yard even without a fence or leash (ok, 95%)? Is there a room in your house your dog must remain out of, such as baby’s room, your formal dining room, or your business office? Are you frustrated with your dog trampling your flowers in the garden you worked so hard on?

There are many ways to contain or control a dog including fences (visible or electronic), chains or tie-outs, pens, leashes, gates, etc. However, none are fool-proof and none truly provide your dog with freedom and a happy life, nor do they teach them anything, only contain them.

Boundary training is an easy and much more reliable alternative. It involves teaching your dog where a boundary line is and that he is not allowed to cross that line, EVER. It’s not as hard as it sounds, just takes a little time and consistency. Fifteen or more minutes a day, every day, for a few weeks, and consistent reinforcement after that. Here’s how to do it.

Prerequisites: It helps if your dog understands basic commands such as “Stay”, “No”, “Leave it”, “Come” and will heel on leash. Be aware that this method of training may not work on every dog. It is best to start with a puppy or young dog. Adults can also learn but it may take a bit longer depending on the dog. Only you know your own dog and how easily trainable they are. Most dogs can easily learn a boundary or “territory”, and most are more than willing to do so. A neutered dog is less likely to want to roam.

For the sake of this article we will use the yard as an example; creating indoor boundaries such as a doorway should be easier to accomplish in a shorter amount of time using the same basic concepts.

1. Take time to decide where the boundary line is. Walk the perimeter without your dog. You can buy little flags to put in the ground temporarily or simply use natural landmarks like trees, driveway, sidewalks, garden edges, etc. Dogs have an uncanny ability to remember visual markers and also incorporate their sense of smell. It is best to keep the boundary line a minimum of 2-3 feet (or more) back from the “real” boundary. In other words, 2-3 feet back from the street or sidewalk, etc. Involve your spouse or other family members so that you all agree on and understand the boundary lines.

2. Once you’ve defined the boundary, begin to walk your dog along the boundary on a leash (even if you are creating an indoor boundary). Walk the dog around 4-6 times a day for 2-3 days. Let them sniff. Do not allow your dog to cross or step over the imaginary boundary line, even an inch. If she does, a simple pop of the leash and a “No” or “Ah-ah” command is all that is necessary.

3. By about the third day continue walking the boundary every day but begin having your dog walk up to the line and stop. If your dog understands the “Wait” or “Stop” command, this is the time to use it. Work on this for 2-3 more days, reinforcing that they are to stop at that boundary. A simple “Ah-ah” also works.

4. After a week or so YOU can begin crossing the boundary yourself while your dog stays behind it. Use the command “Stay”. Step over the boundary a foot or two, turn and face your dog and make them stay. Return to your dog and treat and praise. Begin to toss a treat or favorite toy just a foot or two over the boundary. Here is where the “Leave It” command becomes important. Your dog will learn that ANYTHING outside the boundary line is off limits and they must “leave it”. Use a separate treat and lots of praise when they obey. If your dog looks at you when you toss the treat over the line, it’s party time! Huge reward and praise for that! He is beginning to learn to respect the “leave it zone” and give you his attention instead!!

5. Continue this exercise in different locations along the boundary line. Consistency is a must. He is NEVER to cross the boundary line without your permission. If you are going to take him for a walk you can use a key phrase like “Ok, Let’s go for a walk”, or something similar that is only used at that time, that is your release/permission phrase and that is the ONLY time he is allowed outside the boundary. Determine your release or permission phrase ahead of time. It might be something like “Free Dog!”. Later on when he is advanced simply presenting the leash might serve as his permission cue.

6. After a couple of weeks of reinforcing the boundary over and over every day, your dog should be catching on. It is time to drop the leash and let it drag. Repeat Step 4 but without holding the leash (or you can use a long line if that is more comfortable at this point). Now it is up to your dog to show you what they’ve learned on their own. Use lots of treats and praise when they remain inside the boundary or ignore items tossed over. Be sure to give treats INSIDE the boundary line so you are not tempting them to cross.

7. Once your dog is consistently respecting the boundary line and ignoring treats, toys, etc., raise the stakes. Begin to incorporate more tempting distractions. Have family members or friends walk outside the boundary, ask the kids to toss a ball or act goofy on the other side of the boundary, ask a neighbor to help. Have someone jog by. For a real test, have the neighbor bring their dog out on leash and walk by. Or walk over to your neighbor’s yard and have a conversation for a couple minutes while your dog waits behind the boundary. These are advanced steps, work up to it gradually, stepping up the temptations as your dog shows he is ready.

8. When she makes a mistake, always go back a step or two and start over. The rules must be consistently and continually reinforced. The key to this training is to NEVER break the rules without your specific permission word or phrase. If she is allowed to cross the boundary one day and not the next it will only confuse her. Do not punish harshly when mistakes are made, just go back a few steps and help her to re-learn.

9. Practice walking toward the boundary as you FOLLOW your dog, walking behind him. The goal is for him to stop at the line on his own. You can use the “Stop” command if necessary. It is a good command for your dog to learn anyway, especially for this training. Call him to “Come” to you, away from the boundary. Remember to use lots and lots of praise and treats when he obeys.

10. Get creative on how you work with your dog to reinforce the boundary. Incorporate different types of temptations, with you standing at different places. But it is crucial that steps 1-5 are accomplished solidly first, no matter how long that takes. Play fetch with your dog and every now and then purposely toss the ball beyond the boundary. If she stops and does not go after it, praise her like there is no tomorrow, that is a huge accomplishment! Run alongside her and purposely cross the boundary, the goal is for her to stop as you continue on. Whenever you and your dog are outside incorporate little tests and reinforcements. This training is something you continually reinforce over and over for the lifetime of your dog. You want it to become so ingrained into her that it is a natural behavior. Getting her to cross the boundary will become nearly impossible if this training is accomplished successfully.

Devoting a few months to this training will result in one of the most well trained dogs you could imagine. Your dog can enjoy the freedom of running loose in your yard, even if there is no fence, and you will have complete peace of mind knowing he will not run into the street, dash off to visit the neighbor’s dog, or run away.

I suggest boundary training even if you have an invisible fence or other containment method, as those are strictly “containment” methods, they do not “teach” the dog about boundaries, and if the dog is determined or smart enough, they can outwit any “containment” method, as some of you may have experienced. Also, tying a dog up or keeping them kenneled only makes them want their freedom more, ultimately creating an unhappy, frustrated dog with even more desire to escape.

Most dogs are more than happy to do what is expected of them once they are taught what that is. Containment methods never teach a dog anything, and so they will think it is ok to run off if they can find a way out. Your goal should be to teach, not just restrict your dog. A solidly trained dog will not leave your yard or enter off-limit areas, without your permission. To me, that is the ultimate form of containment. And what a gift to give your dog – freedom from chains, cages or shock devices. Your dog will thank you!

A word of caution… You should never leave your dog unattended in your unfenced yard (i.e. when you leave the house), no matter how well trained. You are ultimately responsible for your dog’s safety at all times.

Electronic confinement system for dogs

Dog trainers are often asked if they recommend electronic confinement systems for dogs. You’re likely to receive one of two responses either pro or con depending upon the trainer’s background.  The trainers who align themselves with what they call “pure positive reinforcement” (which doesn’t really exist, but that’s a topic for another article) will point out the cons of electronic fencing and will try to compare it to animal abuse.  Some of the cons include:

• It is an aversive set at a high level to cause pain if the dog attempts to go through the fence zone.
• The level may not be set high enough to discourage the dog from going through the zone when presented with a more intriguing distraction.
• Batteries die out and sometimes owners forget to replace them in time.
• The dog may associate receiving the shock with other things other than simply trying to go through the fence zone, such as people or other dogs it sees on the other side of the fence zone.
• Dogs with high drive may endure the shock and still go through the fence zone. Once on the other side, they rarely come back through the zone to reenter the property.
• And, of course invisible fencing does not prevent people, dogs and other animals from entering the property.

Balanced humane dog trainers (those who use positive reinforcement along with fair corrections when necessary) tend to be in favor of electronic fencing and cite the following:

• While nothing is full proof, it does work for most dogs most of the time.
• The dog learns to avoid the shock and therefore, stay within the confines of the yard despite intriguing distractions to do otherwise.
• The confinement systems come with varying levels so it can be adjusted to the individual dog.
• Most systems come with a warning beep to warn the dog that they are getting close to the boundary.  This allows them to move away from the boundary and not receive the shock.
• Dogs trained with just positive reinforcement to come away from the boundary will leave the property when enticed with a more intriguing distraction and/or when unsupervised.
• Having a dog properly trained on a confinement system gives the dog more room to run and play in the yard as well as keep him/her safe.
• Without the system and if physical fences are not allowed by the community standards; the owner would have to tie the dog in the backyard, erect a non-permanent kennel (if permissible) next to the house, or take the dog out on a leash to potty and exercise many times per day.

The best confinement system is a physical fence.  Even better yet, is a large kennel constructed within the back yard in addition to the perimeter physical fence.  This way your dog is contained within two fences when unsupervised but can have the run of the yard while supervised. This also prevents your dog from running the perimeter fence line with the neighbor dogs.

However, many neighborhoods do not allow physical fences.  Therefore, an invisible fencing system might be the logical second best choice. However, a third option exists and that is to train your dog to the boundary utilizing a remote collar system. The pros include:

• You can train your dog to the boundary utilizing a “just right setting” that get’s your dog’s attention but is not too high to cause pain.
• Your dog can enjoy freedom to run and play in your entire yard and stay safe.
• You can use the system to train other behaviors such as a reliable “come” command as well as other commands.
• You can use the system for off leash obedience in other locations because it can go with you and your dog anywhere.

Utilizing a remote collar system; most dogs, most of the time will respect the boundary. However, it is recommended to supervise their activities to make sure they are not tempted to chase something off property when you are not present.

So there you have it, the pros and cons of electronic fencing. To properly train your dog utilizing a remote collar system, contact the Michigan Dog Trainer.

The amount of learning we do each and everyday is pretty astounding.   We learn through successes and through failures–you try a “shortcut” only to find it takes twice as long, you try a new recipe and it’s a huge hit, you try to break up with someone via text message and learn how much of a BAD idea that is, you get stung by a bee only to find out you are highly allergic, you wake up to find a dead fish in your fish tank and you learn why it’s important to check the temperature.  The lessons we learn through life successes and life rewards, I think, are some of the most ingrained.

I get quite a few comments by people various places when I’m unloading my dogs from the car.  I can swing open the doors as wide as possible and neither dog will get out of the car.  I’ve watched people struggle to get the leashes in their hands before the dogs fly out from the car and take off in some direction… these same people frequently  look at me with amazement as my dogs stay in the car with doors open.  I travel a lot with the dogs and one of my concerns is having one of the dogs get loose during a potty-stop.  So this behavior, of respecting the boundary, is very important for me … and is a behavior I think ALL dogs should learn.  Having dogs who will not push their way out of a car is really about safety.  It provides you the time and ability to put a leash on the pup or grab the leash before they leap out, you can open a door without the dog squeezing out and perhaps getting hit by a car or lost in the woods, and it gives you the chance to start off with a level of control and focus at exciting places.

When people ask about it (and once they get their dog back, they inevitably do), I tell them it’s a very easy behavior to train!  It’s about knowing what the dog wants and using that to your advantage.

When the dogs are in the back of the car and we are at the park, I know what they want is to get out of the car and go play.  I will use getting out of the car as a reward for staying in the car.

I tend to start by working in lower distraction and safe areas (a garage is preferable because it’s very low value… they will probably not be itching to get out in the garage)–this is the only time I will use food rewards.  I cue the dogs to hop in, I shut the door, wait a few seconds, and then reach for the door handle–if the dogs get smooshed near the door, I turn around.  If they are just casually waiting, I unlatch the door–if the dogs try to push the door, it gets latched and I move away (15 seconds).  If they aren’t too pushy, then I open the door just and inch or two, if the dogs rush the door, it’s carefully shut and I walk away (for about 15 seconds).   If they stay put, I continue to open the door wider and wider…. if they make a move to go through the door, I shut the it carefully. If they do get out, I put them back in and shut the door (no yelling, just back inside).  When you are able to open the door all the way (even if just for a moment or too) give your release word (okay, free, break) and toss a treat on the ground if they need motivation to get out.   Don’t use any cues  to make them stay in the car, don’t say “stay, stay, stay” or “wait, wait, wait”… we want the behavior to be a default or expected behavior, not based on our verbal cues.

Shayne waiting in the car w/ the door open while I get to pet my friend's dog Risa.

Once you are able to open the door normally with the pup staying inside, I like to take it a little further while still in the low-interest area.  With the door open, I move to grab the leash or move to hook a leash to the collar.  If at anytime the pup moves to exit the car, the door shuts and i walk away for 15 seconds.  I work up to being able to gently tug on the leash with out them exiting the door until I give the release word.  By this time, I should be able to give the release cue without tossing the treat but with rewarding with one afterward.

This is pretty much the same process used repeatedly starting in new places.  After the garage, I would go to the driveway or street in front of the house–some place medium to low interest.  I would put the pup in the car while in the garage and actually drive it into the driveway or street then stop and work.   You can even drive around the block and park back in the driveway to work.  I don’t like to take this training to the next level until they have been successful for a while (setting the pup up for safety and success).  When they are good in the garage, driveway/street, then I would take it to the next level.

Take a short drive to a place they go somewhat regularly (so it’s not an added level of excitement of a NEW place).  Be safe about things… if it’s a high traffic area work on the side of the car that is less busy.  Repeat the process from the garage… if at anytime the pup tries to push its way out or gets too close to exiting, shut the door and walk away for 15 or so seconds.  Work to the door being open and you grabbing the leash (for safety you can get the leash with the door not completely open, but open the door fully before releasing the pup)… if you can get the leash and open the door, release the dog, no food and go for a nice walk or do that activity.  If the pup jumps out before released, calmly put it back in the car shut the door and turn away for 15 or so seconds.

If you want, you can up the criteria to requiring eye contact before the pup gets out of the car.  You can add criteria by requiring eye contact AFTER the dog leaves the car.  Again this is all about having some focus/control before starting an activity.

This is one of the first things I worked on with Rio because I think it’s such an important safety default behavior.  I don’t worry about him leaping out of the car to chase animals, or to run to a new place, or to just get out and wander into traffic.  What I’ve done is up the criteria for eye contact… they need to give me eye contact before they can exit and they have to give me eye contact within 30 seconds of being out of the car.  When they offer eye contact it initiates the fun.  I’ve used this method to build door manners and crate manners as well… no more rushing out the door, no more rushing out the crate… teaching the pups to show a little impulse control.

The training isn’t hard… it’s all about real life rewards and life consequences and in my experiences, dogs tend to pick it up quickly.

The Low Riders know their boundaries and perimeters without acclimation

Training your dog to respect home boundary can be fun and super-rewarding! It is a tremendous gift to both you and your dog because it promotes more freedom and security in your lives. Contrary to popular thinking, you can train boundaries without the use of a physical barrier or an invisible fence (electric stimulation) system. Fences provide a certain convenience because they, in theory, allow you to “check out” of the picture sooner rather than later. This brings me back to my initial point about the difference between training and restraining.

If you mistake your effectively-contained dog for a trained dog, you risk being lulled into a false sense of security that could put your dog, the public, and ultimately yourself in danger. I’ve found that dog owners who become over-reliant on a containment system tend to lose touch, over time, with their dog and the boundary. Their dog may be attempting to break or successfully breaking boundary, encountering things coming into the boundary, discovering items within the boundary and essentially managing the area as she sees fit without guidance. I’ll say here that I am not opposed to fences but if you rely on one and overlook training, you may end up with a dog who continues to invest energy in challenging the “system” in some fashion.

Here are some things to keep in mind if you do rely on some form of fence containment:

• When you set up your boundary be sure to include a route for public access that is outside of your dog’s boundary area. The UPS driver, Girl Scout, Jehovah’s witnesses and your dog will all be more secure if they don’t have to manage chance encounters in your absence.
• Keep training in the picture. Don’t leave all the work up to the fence. Spend time regularly with your dog walking the perimeter and defining the boundary together. Let her know that she is respecting the boundary for you, not the fence or because of a potential correction.
• If you are using an invisible fence, make sure that your dog isn’t breaking boundary when you’re not around and inspect your equipment often.
• Remember that fences don’t always keep things out. Invisible fences offer zero external security and physical fences are not impervious either. Raccoons can climb, skunks can dig and kids can open gates. Small dogs are especially vulnerable when left unattended in a boundary due to the potential for predators like a fox, coyote or owl to pick them off. Stay tuned into your dog and yard! Don’t leave your dog alone for extended periods of time.
• Inspect your dog yard daily for signs of any problems. Digging projects in process, the presence of foreign materials, damage to outdoor furniture — your dog could be getting into things you aren’t aware of until it’s too late.
• Keep the boundary clean, comfortable and safe for your dog! Daily poop clean-up is also a chance to spend time with your dog in the yard.
• Don’t make your dog just a “yard dog” — even if your containment system is failsafe a dog still deserves a life outside of a yard! A system that is really convenient for you could become torture for your dog if it means he never gets to experience life anymore.
• Don’t let your dog bark incessantly. No matter how entertaining you think this is for your dog, it is a nuisance behavior that indicates boredom, not to mention that it will drive your neighbors crazy.
• Train your dog to be accepting of guests on home boundary in your presence, with your guidance. Do not shoulder your dog with the responsibility of managing encounters in your absence unless she has been trained for a specific purpose and is equipped to handle these encounters properly.
• Post your boundary with a sign if necessary to alert outsiders of your dog’s presence.

Planning and continued maintenance can greatly reduce the potential for a boundary system that ends up working against you and your dog. Use common logic and always strive for good training to replace the need for clever restraining!

John Spieser is a professional dog trainer and owner of Dogheart. He can be reached at john@doghearta2.com.

Video:   Training Boundaries

Like all animals, dogs enjoy roaming about. Unfortunately for us, this isn’t limited to our houses and backyards, but to our neighbor’s as well. If they could tell you, most dogs would say that that they hate the idea of having to remain cooped up in a certain amount of space.

One of the best ways to boundary train your dog, and the most commonsensical also, involves simply setting up boundaries. This can be done by installing a little gate in some area of the house or yard so that your dog knows that this is, and only this, is their special spot.

Whether this is done by keeping your pet solely within the gated confines of your backyard, or limiting your dog’s ability to freely parade around the house, setting up boundaries can be extremely important.

Having boundaries, however, is not enough, as it is even more important that these boundary training be enforced with consistentcommands such as a stern “No” or “Halt” whenever your dog is about to breach the boundary. By enforcing the predefined boundaries with commands, your dog will quickly internalize the realization that certain places are off limits, and therefore will stay out of these areas.

With a new dog or puppy, and especially young children, predefined boundaries may be hard to keep, as enthusiasm is high and everyone will want the dog in their section of the house.

Although this may be fun, consistency is very important when boundary training your dog. You, as owner, should forbid your dog from entering places that you have deemed off-limits.

Or, if you are not comfortable with putting your dog behind a gate, you will want to keep the doors shut so that, no matter how much your dog may want to enter various places, they will simply not be able to. This can definitely be a viable alternative, but remember you must enforce the rules you set. Otherwise, you might as well not have rules at all!

Of course, boundary training your dog, and having a dog that understands where he or she can and cannot roam, will relieve you of a lot of unnecessary heartache. Dogs without define boundaries will want to go wherever they please, and this is bound to tick-off others who don’t want your dog encroaching on their space. Unnecessary arguments, bad blood, and even calls to the local pound may result if a dog is not properly trained.

So, for the sake of all dog lovers, boundary train your dog. It may just be the best thing you do – for you and for your dog!

Posted: Just One More Pet

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Healthy Kangal Dog pups raised in the United States. Photo by Sue Kocher @2004.

Livestock guarding dogs today often serve a dual purpose as family dog or all purpose farm dog as well as the guardian of sheep, goats, ducks, emus, llamas, or other small livestock. Most guarding dog breeds originated in Europe where they were used to protect sheep from predators like wolves, coyotes or wild cats.
According to Orysia Dawydiak and David Sims, co-authors of LIVESTOCK PROTECTION DOGS: SELECTION, CARE AND TRAINING, “It was previously believed that pups should not be touched at all lest they bond to the humans and not to the stock. In fact, such dogs can be dangerous if they cannot be handled.” Instead, they advocate developing a relationship with your pup as soon as you bring him home. “Equally as important as the physical comforts of your pup are his emotional needs.” They begin handling puppies with a series of “sensitivity training” exercises which include things like touching the puppy all over, rolling her on her side and praising when she relaxes, putting a finger in her mouth, or lifting her carefully off the ground. They also teach basic manners and take the puppy for car rides.
Rather than placing the puppy in with the stock where he could be injured, they advocate placing him in a pen adjacent to the livestock they will eventually be expected to protect. Provide shelter, toys, food and water and plenty of space for exercise. The advantage to this is that neither the puppy nor the livestock can be injured. Whenever you are doing chores or working near the livestock, let the puppy out so you can supervise him and also protect him from aggressive stock. Puppies that bite or run at the stock must be disciplined immediately, “Be reasonable with the amount of force used to stop bad behavior, but do stop it.”

Eight-week-old Slovakian Cuvac pup already started with sheep. Photo by Robin Rigg @ 2004.

Dawdiak and Sims explain in detail their cautious, gradual method of transitioning the puppy to be left with the livestock, and how to handle his interactions with the human family at the same time. The puppy must learn to like you and look forward to your visits, but he must eventually bond to the livestock.
Once that happens, you can move on to boundary training, introducing the puppy to other working dogs on the farm, and continued socialization.
Indeed the entire spectrum of choosing, owning, caring for and training a livestock protection dog is covered in the book. The authors discuss the pros, cons and characteristics of many different guarding breeds, helping the reader to better understand the breed they have or make a the right choice with their first dog. Once you have the dog they cover diet, health concerns, behavioral problems and training.
For example, I didn’t know that some guardians will try to protect a new baby lamb from it’s mother, or that bored guarding dogs sometimes “escape” and go wandering where they don’t belong. Perhaps one of the most interesting chapters in the book is “Special Considerations for Unusual Livestock,” which deals with using dogs to protect poultry, ratites, llamas and alpacas. Llamas are very unique in that they are actually used by some sheep and goat farmers to guard their stock. Certain neutered male llamas can be quite aggressive towards strange canines. Due to their size, llamas are not considered as vulnerable as sheep or goats, however there are predators that even the toughest llama cannot deter. These include cougars, grizzlies, wolves and even a determined pack of coyotes. “Coyotes have been known to draw the guard animal away from the flock so the rest of the pack can attack from behind. In areas where tough predators abound, llamas still need canine protection.”

Three-month-old Akbash Dog pup Ruya uses a ewe for a pillow. Photo by Orysia Dawydiak @ 2004.

If you are worried about the safety of your livestock or considering whether you should get a guard dog, this book will help you make the decision. If you already have a guarding breed and want to learn more, this book will steer you over the bumps. It really is a “must have” for anyone interest in a working guard dog or anyone who breeds and sells these breeds for working. Livestock Protection Dogs: Selection, Care and Training is available from Alpine Publications, 800-777-7257.