Photographed with my old Nikon D200 and my still ever reliable Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8.  That lens has always been a truly amazing lens.

Monocrhome Lily

I’d like to hear your comments and thoughts. Copyright 2012 by Jeffrey Aiello Photography.

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

California's Gold Country in Spring

I’d like to hear your comments and thoughts. Copyright 2012 by Jeffrey Aiello Photography.

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

- Jeffrey Aiello, April 2012.

Photographed during my Death Valley Spring Photo Workshop, with my Nikon D3x, and my Nikon Super Wide Angle AF-S Zoom Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D ED-IF Autofocus Lens.

The Grandstand and Racetrack Playa

Photographed preparations for my Death Valley Spring Photo Workshop, with my Nikon D3x, and my Nikon Super Wide Angle AF-S Zoom Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D ED-IF Autofocus Lens.

Grand Teton National Park is home to one of the most memorable and popularly photographed mountain landscapes in the world, the Teton Range.

Happy Shooting,

Jeff Aiello

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

Pemigewasset River Covered Brige - Franconia Notch, NH

While thinking about a photography workshop in the fall may seem kinda odd with spring just having sprung, my workshop and accommodations book up well in advance of the fall. The Buttonwood Inn, will again be host to this workshop.

Dining room at the Buttonwood Inn

The Buttonwood Inn, situated in the White Mountain National Forest, is a bed and breakfast country inn located minutes from North Conway Village, historic Jackson, Mt. Washington, and other White Mountain area attractions. The Inn offers 10 individually decorated guestrooms and lodging includes a homemade gourmet breakfast with items prepared to suit dietary restrictions including gluten-free. The Inn is nationally recognized for their quality of innkeeping and provides the best in service, hospitality, and attention to detail.

Please visit to my site, Jeffrey Aiello Photography, and sign up for my New Hampshire Fall Colors Workshop, and visit the Buttonwood Inn’s site, The Buttonwood Inn, to secure your accommodations for the workshop.  It’ll be an amazing workshop!

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

Grand Teton National Park is home to one of the most memorable and popularly photographed mountain landscapes in the world, the Teton Range.  The Teton Range is a striking mountain range with no foothills to obstruct the view of the mountains.  These sharp peaks and deep canyons make this forty mile mountain range a sight to behold.

Happy Shooting,

Jeff Aiello

Photographed during preparations for my Death Valley Spring Photo Workshop,  with my Nikon D3x, and my Nikon Super Wide Angle AF-S Zoom Nikkor 17-35mm f/2.8D ED-IF Autofocus Lens.

Golden Dune - Death Valley, NP

I’d like to hear your comments and thoughts. Copyright 2012 by Jeffrey Aiello Photography.

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

Photographed with my Nikon D3x, and my Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8G ED VR Lens.

Corkscrew Peak, Death Vallley, NP

I’d like to hear your comments and thoughts.  Copyright 2012 by Jeffrey Aiello Photography.

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

Photographed on the way to my Death Valley Spring Photo Workshop, using my Nikon AF-S NIKKOR 200-400mm f/4G ED VR II lens.

Central California Hills in Black & White

 

 Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

My Grand Teton Digital Photographic Workshop is filling up, but there’s room for you!!  The workshop runs five days, from Tuesday, June 26th through Saturday,  June 30th.

Teton Reflections

Grand Teton National Park is home to one of the most memorable and popularly photographed mountain landscapes in the world, the Teton Range.  The Teton Range is a monolith of sharply notched peaks accented by deep glaciated canyons.  The wonder of Grand Teton National Park has inspired thousands of photographers through the years, from beginners to professionals, including Ansel Adams.

Baby Moose

Join us and we’ll help you take your photographic art to new and creative heights in Grand Teton National Park!

Early morning at Oxbow Bend

Cloudless Sunrise at Oxbow Bend

Happy Shooting,

Jeff Aiello

Photographed with my Nikon D3x and Nikon Super Wide Angle 17-35mm f/2.8 lens.

Here’s a shot of the Master Bedroom of this amazing home.

Luxury Rental Home - Master Bedroom

I’d like to hear your comments and thoughts.  Copyright 2012 by Jeffrey Aiello Photography.

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

Photographed with my Nikon D3x and Nikon Super Wide Angle 17-35mm f/2.8 lens.

Here’s a shot of the kitchen and living/game area of this amazing home.

Luxury Home Kitchen

I’d like to hear your comments and thoughts.  Copyright 2012 by Jeffrey Aiello Photography.

Happy Shooting!

Jeff Aiello

Portrait taken with iPhone. Comments or thoughts?

Happy Shooting,

Jeff Aiello

“Going to Grand Canyon with the fam in April.  Won’t be taking a tripod (they won’t stop for that long!) any ideas on best lens for non-tripod shots?”

The answer to her question is that she needs to compromise.

To me, it’s pretty difficult to get a good shot hand-held.  You need a fairly fast shutter speed, a fairly large or wide open aperture, and an ISO setting of less than about 320, to get a decent shot, without too much noise.  Thus, it’s fairly easy to shoot people in sunlight, where your aperture is typically in the 4 to 7.1 range, shutter speed is at least 1/50 sec., and ISO is around 200.

However, once you try to capture something like a landscape, where you need a greater depth of field and smaller aperture to get the foreground, middle-ground, and background of the frame in focus, a slower shutter speed or higher ISO is needed to properly expose the image.  A higher ISO setting results in more noise (artifact) being introduced into the image and the image becomes grainy and less clear.  Slower shutter speed, means it becomes difficult, if not impossible, to hold the camera still while the shutter is open and the image is blurry and out of focus.

This is where the photographer has to decide what comprises they want to make.  You can play with your aperture, shutter speed, and ISO to properly expose your image, knowing a larger aperture will result in a shallower depth of field and less of your image being in focus and increasing ISO results in more noise in the image.

Back to their particular question: “… any ideas on best lens for non-tripod shots?” we know it’s not really a question of lens.  If you have a lens with a maximum aperture of f/4 it’s probably “good enough”, and if you have a lens with a maximum aperture of f/2.8, it’s great.

Here’s one from the Grand Canyon taken last April… while my family waited!

Grand Canyon, April 2011. Nikon D700; ISO 100, f/22.

Here’s what I would do:

1.  Determine the slowest shutter speed where you can hold the camera still while the shutter is open.  For most people, this is about 1/50 to 1/40 of a second.  I’m very skilled and I’m typically OK down to 1/25 of a second.

2.  From there it’s just playing with and knowing your camera.  Particularly knowing how well the noise reduction software in your camera, and any post processing software that you use, works.  If you know you can shoot up to an ISO 800, then you can set your camera there and adjust the lens’ aperture until you can get a sufficient depth of field.  If you can only shoot up to ISO 400, then you’ll have to use a wider aperture, resulting in a shallower depth of field.

For my student, I suggested “try to use an ISO in the 400 to 800 range and maybe an f-stop of 10 to 11.  If you want a really fast lens, rent an F2 .8 lens either 24 to 70 or 16 to 35 something like that.”

Of course the BEST solution to this problem is to… tell the family to WAIT!!  They’re family, not friends!

Please let me know any questions or comments you may have.

Happy shooting!

Jeff Aiello

My Death Valley Spring Photographic Workshop  is nearly full, but there’s room for a few more!!  The workshop runs from March 28th through the  31st.  I have Please visit my website snow for more information and details, and to sign up!

Death Valley National Park is home to some of the most amazing and interesting photographic locations on the planet. These include: Badwater, the lowest point in North America and a surreal landscape of vast salt flats; Zabriskie Point which is surrounded by a maze of wildly eroded and vibrantly colored badlands, great for sunrise and sunset; Stovepipe Wells Sand Dunes; Mosaic Canyon; and many more amazing locations.  It’s certainly a “Must Shoot” for any photographer!

Please log on to my website, Jeffrey Aiello Photography, for more information and to sign up!  It’s going to be a great workshop!!

Happy Shooting,

Jeff Aiello

Do not get discourage my friend.  For things in life are not easy, for if they were then everyone would be doing them.  The words challenge, faith, trust wouldn’t exist, just easy.

Let’s take one of my passions photography as the focus for a couple of minutes.  Now there is so much beyond the camera, lens, and editing program that you have to keep in mind.  Of course the type of camera and the relationship that you have with it plays a big part. The type of lenses that you have needs to be an extension of your camera body.  The editing program should enhance and create your photos. But what I really want to talk about is inner courage, strength, humbleness.

We all need courage to try something out of our normal range of doing things. How many times have you said to yourself, “that isn’t my cup of tea”, “I am just not sure that I can do that”? Courage is overcoming the doubt that is lurking in the back corners of our heart. Not listening to that voice of self-defeat is something that takes practice. Start by believing that it is possible and that you can do it.  What is the worst thing that will happen; that you will learn something?

I know that I have to constantly remind myself that it is possible.  Then end result may not be what I had in mind, but I’ve walked away in a victory.

Strength and courage go so well together, you cannot have one without the other. You need strength to carry your decision through. Dig deep from within, when your emotions are washing over you stirring the doubt.

Humbleness I feel is a must to have in the world of photography. Who wants to deal with someone that believes that their work is best thing ever? I know that the more one is willing to share the more that everyone befits. When you are humble you are able to learn and open to all possibilities.  We can always learn new insights of being able to capture the moment. I am always looking to learn

Not anyone will take the same photo.  Nor will the person looking at the photo see the same thing.  That is the beauty of the art.  That is the beauty of the gift of the “eye”.

Do you want to be one of those photographers that only known for doing___________( fill in the blank)?  I know that I don’t.  I may not get it right, but I will keep on trying.  Will you?

What have you felt has been your biggest hurdle?

Camera body

Canon 550D also known as Rebel T2i

Lenses

Canon 18-135mm f3.5-5.6 IS

Canon 50mm f1.8

Accessories

Canon 430EXii Speedlite

Kenko extension tubes

While yes I could upgrade to a full frame camera, at the stage I would rather save for a new lens or two

Wish list

Canon 85mm f1.8

Canon 50mm f1.4

Canon 24-70mm f2.8L

Watching how long canon has worked on this prototype makes me wonder how long they have been teasing us knowing this unstoppable force was coming.

With Nikon’s new rebuttal the powerful D4, we begin to see the war between these two incredible companies. Most of us would give a kidney and probably an arm and a leg for either camera body.

With a price tag of $6800 big ones, we begin to wonder if this camera is worth what we would be paying…

It boasts some superhero like characteristics with 18.1 MP CMOS censor with a machine gun like 14 fps…Yea, I said 14. Pretty much puts the D4′s tail between it’s legs.

But most of us are saying what makes this camera so great? Well, I’ll put it this way Canon has put in many years of combined research and finally been able to put those sweat and tears into the pinnacle of their technology. This is by far in my opinion one of the greatest pieces of technology. Although my photography team would argue being Nikon fans and users. But what I hold is nikon D4′s kryptonyte.

Superman himself is rolling over after this piece of krypton slaps him in the face. I mean with ISO’s capable of 204,800 in H2? That’s INSANE!

You can also hide another CF card inside it’s cloak with two CF slots, and even a gigabit ethernet terminal. Seriously canon spared no expense, and this wolf is on the prowl with it’s full frame sensor, and it’s digic 5+ image processor. Light body, and incredibly strong build, you know this thing will take anything you can throw at it. Probably even you throwing it, even though Golem from Lord of the Rings will hunt you screaming you scratched my precious!

With it’s incredible features, speeds, and well thought out build, it’s engineered to expose anything from a beautiful model, to the breathtaking sunrise, to 7 foot tall thundering juggernauts on the field, to ear ripping f1 cars, you know this thing will take over any obstacle in front of it.

Now if Canon would just send me one to permanently have in my bag, and save me the almost $7 grand I’d be set. Cheers to you Canon! You have accomplished the golden challis!

I’ve had a little time now with the absolutely minascule Lumix G 14mm f/2.5 pancake lens and I have to say, I have no problem proclaiming that I have a tiny lens. A truly impressive optical feat considering it’s being used on a 17.3mm x13mm 4/3 sensor. Of course, there is the beautiful Olympus 12mm f/2 lens, but at 2.5x the cost, could one be satisfied with the trade offs and savings? Beyond that you have the much ballyhooed 20mm f/1.7 pancake which is amazing in its own right, but for a bit more coin you can get the Panaleica 25mm f/1.4… And then of course, the Oly 45mm f/1.8 which has been universally praised for both quality and price, but the other Panaleica lens, the 45mm f/2.8 macro should certainly get some attention too. Folks, I think we have a few candidates for the micro 4/3 holy trinity.

Many photographers have heard of the “Holy Trinity” for various systems in regards to lenses, and often when asked, an experienced photographer will rightly say that lenses are a better investment than a new camera body in most cases. I feel that the Micro 4/3 system has not only a Holy Trinity, but two. One for the truly budget conscious and another for those who are willing to spend a bit more coin to get to the top of the IQ hill. Both are great and depending on your needs, you really can’t go wrong. How many systems can you say that about?

The idea of a Holy Trinity in lens terms usually starts with a moderate wide angle lens, then a standard to short portrait focal length and finally a longer portrait / short tele focal length.

Users of the micro 4/3 system are lucky in that they not only have access to truly quality lenses but quality choices, which is unique in the mirrorless world (and any system really). Here are my two versions (with their current estimated prices which may change daily!) of the micro 4/3 Holy Trinity… Click on any of the links to see the lenses at B&H.

First, the “quality is king” choice:

Oly 12mm f/2 (NOW $699) – What’s not to say about a fast, well built, optically precise wide angle lens?

Panaleica 25mm f/1.4 (NOW $505) – The first proprietary “standard” lens for the micro 4/3 system, and it is a beaut.

Panaleica 45mm f/2.8 OIS Macro ($719 ) – The tortoise of the bunch. Not the fastest focuser, not the fastest prime lens in the lineup, but has optical image stabilization, is sharp as a tack and also does true 1:1 macro.

(set total $1923.00 )

*Since this article was written, the Olympus 75mm f/1.8 lens has come on the scene as well.  You can read my take on it HERE.  It’s certainly a jewel in the micro 4/3 system’s crown.  Have a look:

Olympus M.Zuiko Digital ED 75mm f/1.8 ($899 ) – The mid tele monster.  While arguably a little on the pricy side, its quality cannot really be debated.  It’s as good optically as any lens for the system, and from my experience is only limited by the sensors it may focus light onto.  As the sensors get more advanced for the system, I think we’ll see this lens get even better.

Next, the budget minded/mine are smaller, choice:

Panasonic 14mm f/2.5 ($325 ) – Better than average optical performance for the mirrorless category as a whole, and absolutely friggin’ tiny. I have lens caps that are bigger that this lens.

Panasonic 20mm f/1.7 ($348 ) – In my opinion, the one true, must have lens for the micro 4/3 system. It is fast, it is sharp, it is small, it is reasonably priced and at a 40mm equivalent fov, great for almost everything.

Olympus 45mm f/1.8 (NOW $349 ) – This would be my next m4/3 lens (and still may be) if it weren’t for my Contax G Zeiss 45mm f/2 lens that I use. By all accounts, this Oly gem is exactly what the system was screaming for in a lens. Fast focusing, fast max aperture, relatively small, sharp and all at an honest price for the package.

(set total $1022 )

Of course, any one of these can be easily replaced by the other and beautifully fill out a shooter’s personal holy trinity. Something that no other mirrorless system can boast at this point. Choice is good. Some may point out the newly rumored/leaked f/2.8 X zooms, which for what they are look great, but I’m a prime fan, period. I do have some zoom lenses for my other systems, but they only get busted out for specific shoots. Zooms are big, bulky (in my case, heavy) and my whole love affair with the mirrorless systems is overall size reduction. No disrespect to zooms, or the people that love them, I’m just not interested at this point with my compact system. Luckily for me, the micro 4/3 system has really rounded out their prime lens offerings and this is exactly why I think, as a system, it is far and away the best system in the mirrorless landscape right now. There are better sensors, better AF performers and better systems at handling noise, but none have the optical choices for anyone who desires fast, discreet, sharp, affordable prime lenses. Of course, if fast, small primes aren’t your bread and butter, than feel free to ignore my claims.

My lens cap, er, 14mm pancake lens. Sorry.

I’ve gone the way of compact in my micro 4/3 system quiver. As a secondary system, I used it to replace my compact, carry around cameras. I chose the micro 4/3 system largely because of the stellar 20mm f/1.7 pancake, and at the time, it was the only game in mirrorless town. When the 14mm f/2.5 pancake was announced, I’d wished they’d gone a little wider (I was hoping for a 12mm f/2.8 at the same price and relative size) so I’d held off on buying it to see what Olympus was going to do. When the beautiful 12mm f/2 lens was announced, I was a little disappointed. Certainly not for the lack of quality in the new Oly lens, but because I was hoping for another pancake, and one that would have come in under $400. Oh well, it’s better that the system have two different choices, one faster, larger and more cost prohibitive for the more discerning shooter. I’m happy with the 14. Would I like the Oly 12mm? Yep, but I’ll stay happy as is. With the 14mm and 20mm pancakes, you get two very quality lenses at reasonable prices. That, and they’re both absolutely tiny. Here is a shot showing the 20mm overlaid on the 14mm to show how much smaller the 14mm actually is compared to the already small 20mm lens on my GF1. I haven’t measured, but I’d say the GF1 (or even more the GF2/3 and EPL/EPM series) + 14mm pancake is close in size to the LX5 for example.

20mm pancake over the 14mm pancake on a GF1

My last holdout is the 45mm, and I have to say, I would go with the Olympus 45mm f/1.8 at this point due to the cost and 1 + 1/3 stop speed advantage over the Panaleica. Lucky for me, I have a great, compact 45mm f/2 Contax G – Zeiss lens. I don’t have auto focus, but that’s okay. If the pricing drops even further on the Oly, I may grab one, but for now, I have my own holy trinity with my 14mm, 20mm and 45mm lenses. A perfect kit for most any situation, for me.

Now that I’m feeling better about low light performance in the G3 vs the GF1 (see GF1 vs G3 comparison shots here) I think I finally feel comfortable with bringing out my micro 4/3 system in lieu of my larger full frame system for traveling and the like. I would not have been caught without my 5DII and L lenses on any trip in the past, but now, I think I’m actually ready to take my first trip without a full frame camera in over 5 years… It may seem trivial, but trust me, it is a big deal for me. I was curious to see the pure difference in weight seeing as I’d literally carry my camera bag everywhere anytime I was travelling, so I added up the total weight between my two “travel kits” and here’s what I found:

G3 + 14mm f/2.5 + 20mm f/1.7 + Contax 45mm f/2 = 675 g (just shy of 1.5 lbs)

5DII + 35mm f/1.4 + 85mm f/1.4 + 135mm f/2 = 2,841 g (about 6.25 lbs)

I guess that I should also mention that I’d normally have the GF1 +20mm with me on trips too so, with filters, cords, cards, ipad, etc I’d probably be slinging 10-15lbs + around when all things were said and done which may not seem like much, but after a full day and sometimes many miles of walking, I’d feel it in my neck, back, shoulders, …… Seeing that my m4/3 kit weighs less than my 85mm lens alone, I feel that I might have just convinced myself I can get by without a full framer on this next trip.

I enjoy photoblogging and do it purely as a passion project, so I don’t have my blog monetized. Because of this, I don’t have any links to B&H, or Adorama, etc which would give me a commission, so I’d like to direct you to two places I visit regularly that do and would whole heartedly suggest the next time you do make a purchase through B&H, Adorama, Amazon or the like, do so from these guys. FourThirdsRumors (Ale is awesome and has helped me by linking to many of my articles in the past) and SteveHuffPhoto (I read Steve’s blog daily). Both of these hard working gentlemen are well worth helping out, so if you do feel like making someone’s day brighter by buying your lenses on line at no extra cost to you (they get affiliate commissions if you buy by clicking their links) I’d like to suggest these two.

As always, thanks for reading through. Fire off any questions, I’d be happy to try and answer them.

Happy shooting.

*the product shots of the listed lenses are used for editorial reference and are the property of Olympus and Panasonic. All others are © Tyson Robichaud Photography

Sale Nikon D100 Japan

Body only

Lengkap Dusssss

Rp 3.200.000

Bebas Nego…silahkan sms..tp pake perasaan ya

When you see all those beautiful pictures on websites, blogs and even those which have been posted by your friends on Facebook, you tend to stop by and give it a thought. How come these pictures are so beautiful and perfect? Is my friend turned into a professional photographer? Which camera is he using to get these kind of pictures? And so on.

Then lights a spark in you – “hey even I want to click such pictures!! Even I want to upgrade my “shiny little digital camera” into a DSLR. Then the search begins!! We often stop by electronic stores and check out these professional cameras but couldn’t understand a thing. Maybe because these are complicated to understand and buy or maybe because the salesman on the other side of the counter is focusing on his sales target rather than trying to give his Gyaan on professional cameras.

Anyways, we do our research from friends and internet but when the final buying call needs to be taken, some have deep pockets who end up buying the costly equipment and then later figuring it out what is it about. Others (like us J) who have been saving money all this time to buy our newly discovered passion, end up in a high confusion mode with questions –

The Intriguing Question:

Which is the best DSLR to buy ? Should I buy the standard kit with lens or should I go for body and lens separately???? Which lens would be best suited for my requierments & type of photography?

This is where MyFirstPic come for your help and share a buying guide which is based on our experiences and which will help you in deciding your purchase.

Digital SLR lenses come in all sorts of shapes and sizes and there is substantial price variation. Some are built for the demanding needs of professionals and others are just right for the everyday snapshot photographer.

In this section, we will give an insight on the type of lenses. This will help you shorten your research and lead to a concrete decision on which lens you should buy. 

The Camera Body

A good camera body is helpful, especially using one which has a full frame sensor, that has a good low light performance, or AF performance but this is actually the least important part of the buying decision. The biggest mistake that new camera buyers make – they buy an expensive camera body and compromise on standard kit lens and then they wonder why their photographs haven’t improved.

We, at MyFirstPic advise you going for a comparatively inexpensive body in the manufacturer’s line that has full manual controls, and spending more on procuring a better lens.

What Brand is your SLR?

Lenses are Manufacturer Specific. So even before you start your search for the lens, you have to know the Brand of your DSLR you are going to buy. Lenses have an electronic connection with the digital SLR camera. This connection relays information from lens to camera so that you can change setting on the lens (like aperture) from the camera body itself. These connections are not same across manufacturers so this is what makes them unique.

In a nut shell, a lens manufactured by Nikon won’t function with other camera brands like Canon, Sony, Pentax etc and vice-a-versa. Now what ? Question is have I got no option than to pay a big price for these manufacturer specific lenses? Answer is NO. There is a way out. There are some third party manufacturers who develop the same lens but with different lens mounts for different camera bodies.

The key to understanding which lens will work with your digital SLR can when you understand the concept of lens mount.

The lens mount is the point of connection between a lens and your digital SLR. A Canon lens mount is different from a Nikon lens mount which is different from a Pentax lens mount.

So if you have a need, you can buy a third party lens in much lesser amount. Now, it’s time to give you an overview on the various types of lenses and what they do. 

Types of Lenses

• Standard Lenses – These lenses are provided by the camera manufacturers along with the camera as a part of the kit. These are generally of the 18 – 55mm focal length. Fit for every basic need right from fairly decent wide angle shots to normal zooms. Light in weight and very handy in day to day photography. Cheap and Best!! 
• Prime Lens – With a prime lens, the focal length (the zoom factor) is fixed – so you “zoom” by moving your feet closer to or further away from the subject. These are smaller and lighter than zoom lenses and because there’s a single focal length, they are optimized for it in terms of image quality. These lenses offer stunning background blur. Great choice for Portraits, Landscapes, Travel and Night shots. Loved by portrait photographers.
  

  fig 2: Prime Lens

• Standard Zoom Lens – These are versatile and portable lens with normal zooms and thus become vital part of your photography. They offer steady shots and offer more photo opportunities from daily snapshots to travel documentary work. Offers a variety of focal length lenses to chose from.
  

  fig 3: Standard Zoom Lens

• Telephoto Zoom Lens – These are used to get closer view of far away subjects. Especially for nature and wildlife photographywhere you cannot go near to the subject but want to fill the frame with the subject from a distance.
  

  fig 4: Telephoto Zoom Lens

• Wide Angle Lens– Go by the name, these lenses capture a very wide angle shot. These are typically used in Landscape photographyfor getting nice and close to the subject still fitting a lot of them in the frame.
  

  fig 5: Wide Angle Lens

• Fish Eye Lens– It is an extreme wide angle lens which makes the picture look circular. These specialized lenses which purposely distort the subject in a curved way to get more into the shot.
  

  fig 6: Fish Eye Lens

• Macro Lens– You must have seen pictures where close-ups of Insects have been taken. These shots are captured through Macro lens as they can focus at much closer distance than other lenses. These are specifically designed for shooting object close ups. Macro lenses will produce images that are life size and that enable you to get in incredibly close to small subjects such as flowers and insects.
  

  fig 7: Macro Lens

                            MyFirstPic ViewPoint:

                            Choice of Lens totally depends upon what type of photography you want to  do. Be                                     completely clear in your mind before taking a decision, as whichever lens you may                                   choose, is going to cost you dearly. Hence, take your time!