North Somerset

2good2tip are growing communities all over North Somerset and a very warm Christmas welcome to all new 2good2tip members !

Topping the list are Congrebury, Yatton, Clevedon, Wrington, Sandford and Nailsea.

New communities growing nicely are Churchill, Cheddar, Portishead plus many more …

Yes, I know, I play Modern Warfare 2 a little more than I should. I care not, I shall continue to play it until I get tired of the sight of helicopters falling on America. Might be a while.

The aforementioned quote did, however, drum up some smidgen of inspiration in me. Thinking about it, who does write history? Is it those that make it, or those around them? Would Dubya have been as great a twat had it not been for Cheney or Rumsfeld? Would Hitler have been such a naughty boy without Himmler there to guide him? The list goes on. It kind of reminds me of a quote from Churchill, which I’ll post at the end of this.

If history is indeed as malleable as clay, then that must leave a shedload of opportunity for artistic conjecture. What if the Russian’s hadn’t stopped at Berlin, what if Richard and Saladin had actually met on the field of battle, and what would have happened if the Hindenberg hadn’t gone up in flames? Who knows.

Us creative types might

Anyway, I fancy going to grab a bite to eat, even though I have eaten already. For the end quote I will add this. Think about this quote, and then think about writers. We are generally frowned upon in the wide world. Maligned as malcontents, hermits and perpetual wankers, we take shit from above, below, left and right, and still come back for more. We love writing for different reasons, but love it all the same. So, to all those who would belittle our work. In the words of Churchill:

“History will be kind to me, for I intend to write it.”

28. November 1943:

Cheers!

Beginn der Teheran – Konferenz der Alliierten, die bis zum 1. Dezember 1943 in der Hauptstadt Persiens stattfand. Zusammen mit ihren Außenministern trafen sich Stalin, Roosevelt und Churchill, um ihre weitere Kriegführung und die Behandlung eines besiegten Deutschland zu besprechen. Höhepunkt des Treffens war ein gemeinsames Besäufnis, bei dem zwischen Stalin und Roosevelt und dessen Sohn Elliot in typischer Gangstermanier um die Zahl der nach dem Krieg abzuschlachtenden Deutschen gefeilscht wurde, wobei Churchill angeblich Protest einlegte. Das ist wenig glaubhaft, weil er bereits am 27. April 1941 in einer Rundfunkansprache erklärt hatte: ” Es gibt weniger als siebzig Millionen bösartige Hunnen ( gemeint Deutsche, niekisch ) – einige davon sind zu heilen, die anderen umzubringen.”

I had my Allergy Clinic appointment today and it proved to be sort of useful.

I hadn’t *quite* realised just how long it would be. Over two hours I spent swapping seats in the waiting room and occasionally going into a consulting room. Thankfully i took my mum along with me, so we spent most of it being rude about the Doctors/ other patients (in a nice way!).

We started off with history taking with the registrar, who after ages of questions (and re-reading of my respiratory notes from my one visit to the paediatric respiratory department before I self discharged!) called in the consultant and we talk for some more, he showed me how to maximise nasal spray technique and said I could up the dosage of that when ill.

Then came the skin prick tests, which I was really worried would show nothing and they’d just be like “Ok, so you’re not allergic to anything” and it’d just be a sort of ‘what now?’ situation. They tested me for moulds, pollens, animals, oil seed rape and house dust mite and I reacted very quickly and obviously to HDM and grass pollen, and to a much milder extent- guinea pigs (bit of a pain as I own guinea pigs!). I had no idea that Skin Prick testing would itch SO much though!

Anyway, we then waited in the waiting room- again!- before seeing the registrar and consultant. The upshot of it basically is that I’m going to be allowed to double up both my fexofenadine and nasonex dose when I’m bad and also have access to a 7 day course of prednisolone at 30mg for flair ups which I can start of my own accord. They also mentioned desensitization therapy for grass pollen, but I can’t get that on the NHS in my PCT and would have to go private to have it either IM or as a tablet (grazax) and would cost a ridiculous amount of money, so I think I’ll give that a miss and then see if the PCT where I go to University will fund it/ see how I do this summer. In some ways, desensitization therapy would be so so good if it worked but I’d feel awkward about going private as so many people can’t afford that and I don’t really want my NHS care to change because I’m private for allergy care. Decisions decisions…

Anyway, I’m off to restart my fexofenadine (but am going to try at a lower dose 120mg over winter and damp dust all the time to get ride of HDM). Fingers crossed it all goes ok!

Nagyításhoz katt a képre!

La Conferencia presentó problemas antes de convocarse y durante su desarrollo. El lugar elegido no parecía el más adecuado. Teherán había sido cuartel general del espionaje alemán y no se tenía la seguridad de que éste hubiera sido totalmente exterminado. Vyacheslav Molotov afirmó, incluso, que se había descubierto una conjura para asesinar a uno de los Tres Grandes durante su permanencia en la capital iraní.
Pero Stalin se mostró inflexible. No quería alejarse demasiado de Moscú y había fijado, como límite, “cualquier punto desde el cual pudiese volver en veinticuatro horas a la capital soviética”.

Otro problema que agravaba la inseguridad de Teherán eran los desplazamientos dentro de la misma ciudad. La parálisis de Franklin D. Roosevelt hacía difíciles esos desplazamientos, porque la Embajada de la Unión Soviética, donde se alojaba Stalin, y la norteamericana, donde se habría alojado Roosevelt, estaban muy distantes entre sí. Por el contrario, la Embajada de la URSS y la del Reino Unido de Gran Bretaña estaban muy próximas.

Stalin propuso que el presidente norteamericano fuese huésped de los soviéticos, y lo consiguió. De esta manera se consumó, de hecho, el acercamiento entre los representantes de la URSS y Estados Unidos y el distanciamiento de ambos respecto a Winston Churchill.

Éste no era tan ciego el premier como para no darse cuenta de lo que esto significaba. Pero no tuvo argumentos válidos que oponer a las excusas que, sobre la seguridad y la comodidad de Roosevelt, se le dieron.

“Los Tres Grandes -escribió Raymond Cartier- eran iguales sólo de cara al protocolo… Churchill, que no era querido, fue tratado como una entidad secundaria… Incluso sufrió un desplante de parte de Roosevelt cuando invitó a éste a cenar “a dos”. Roosevelt le respondió que no quería dar a Stalin la impresión de que los ingleses y los americanos estaban de acuerdo contra él. Pero luego, todos los días, el presidente y Stalin tenían conversaciones de las que era excluido Churchill”.

Roosevelt, que presidió la primera reunión, dejó bien claro en su discurso cuál era el propósito de la convocatoria: felicitó a sus compañeros -y se felicitó a sí mismo- de actuar movidos por la cívica finalidad de ganar la guerra.

No hubo en Teherán una metodología de trabajo. Sería característico en las reuniones de los Grandes, pero nunca de manera tan acusada como en ésta.

Churchill, que se admiraba de ver la mayor concentración de poder mundial que se había conocido en la historia, escribió luego, francamente: “Cada uno podía plantear y discutir lo que quisiera”. El presidente norteamericano, con menos rubor, se jactaba de que aquello fuese un comadreo político y prescindió por completo del consejo de los setenta y siete asesores que le acompañaban. Stalin no hizo comentario alguno sobre la evidente desorganización. Era él quien la provocaba, convencido de que le interesaba más sondear a sus aliados que comprometerse con ellos.

La simplicidad de algunos momentos impresiona hoy al cotejarla con las consecuencias que produjeron aquéllas anécdotas. Como cuando Churchill manejaba tres cerillas para explicarle al dictador soviético la configuración de la frontera polaca de posguerra o cuando, cerrado el capítulo finlandés, preguntó Stalin: “¿Hay más cuestiones?”
-”Sí, la cuestión de Alemania”, -respondió Churchill.

Era Alemania, por encima de todo, la que había convocado a la negociación a los Tres Grandes. Por eso, una vez introducida la materia, se manifestó la única unanimidad de la Conferencia: el exterminio de los alemanes.

Aunque Anthony Eden, desde su posición de segundo en la delegación británica, quiso hacer un distingo: -”sería ridículo identificar la pandilla de Hitler con el pueblo alemán, con el Estado alemán. La historia muestra que los Hitler vienen y pasan, mientras que el pueblo alemán, el Estado alemán, permanece”-, su voz no fue escuchada.
Era la repetición histórica de otro momento -el Congreso de Viena- en el que Talleyrand se esforzaba por separar a los franceses de Napoleón, sin éxito alguno después de que el emperador se escapase de la isla de Elba para iniciar la aventura de los Cien Días.
Si acaso, Churchill y Roosevelt parecían admitir grados de culpabilidad. El británico creía que Prusia debía ser tratada con mucha más dureza. El norteamericano propuso un plan de división de Alemania, según este esquema:

-Cinco regiones autónomas: Prusia; Hannover y el noroeste; Sajonia y la región de Leipzig; Hesse-Darmstadt, Hesse-Kassel y la zona sur del Rin, y Baviera y Baden Würtenberg.
-Dos territorios bajo tutela de las Naciones Unidas: Kiel, su canal y Hamburgo, y el Sarre y el Ruhr.

En esta división, la diferencia se mostraba, evidentemente, en las consideraciones de orden industrial.

Stalin zanjó la cuestión: “los alemanes son todos iguales”. A lo que se adhirió sin muchas vacilaciones Roosevelt, añadiendo que, tarde o temprano, volverían a unirse.
Stalin insistió en el control de la industria alemana y no tardó en ganar su causa a sus aliados cuando se mencionó el tema de la Aviación y, por supuesto, el Ejército.
Esta unanimidad en el exterminio llevó al dictador soviético a un exceso verbal que molestó a Churchill y se liquidó con un chiste de dudosa gracia.

Stalin, en uno de los muy numerosos brindis -que se hacían siempre con vodka- levantó su copa “por el fusilamiento de 50.000 oficiales alemanes”. Churchill calificó aquello de “indignidad”, y Roosevelt intentó salir del paso diciendo: “¡Bueno! ¡Brindemos sólo por la muerte de 49.500… !”

En las decisiones concretas para terminar la guerra con Alemania se suscitó el tema de la Operación Overlord, es decir, de la invasión de Europa tras el desembarco -que era el núcleo de la Operación-, ya suficientemente madurada.

Pero la cuestión se estancó un tanto porque Stalin presentaba algunas reticencias al protagonismo de Estados Unidos. Sin embargo, Roosevelt seguiría adelante con su proyecto y con el nombre de su ejecutor, que poco después hizo público: el general Dwight D. Eisenhower.

La Conferencia de Teherán terminó con un comunicado oficial en el que se decía:
“La Conferencia:

1. Ha acordado que los guerrilleros de Yugoslavia deben ser apoyados con suministros y equipo en la mayor extensión posible, así como con operaciones de comandos.
2. Ha acordado que, desde el punto de vista militar, es deseable que Turquía entre en la guerra al lado de los aliados antes de fin de año.

3. Ha tomado nota de la afirmación del mariscal Stalin de que si Turquía entra en guerra con Alemania y, como consecuencia, Bulgaria declarase la guerra a Turquía o la atacara, los soviets inmediatamente declararían la guerra a Bulgaria. La Conferencia ha tomado, asimismo, nota de que este hecho debería ser explícitamente declarado en las inminentes negociaciones para hacer entrar a Turquía en la guerra.

4. Ha tomado nota de que la Operación Overlord sería desencadenada durante el mes de mayo de 1944 conjuntamente con una operación contra el sur de Francia. Esta última operación será emprendida con el máximo de potencial que permita la disponibilidad de lanchas de desembarco. La Conferencia ha tomado, asimismo, nota de la afirmación del mariscal Stalin de que las fuerzas soviéticas desencadenarían una ofensiva aproximadamente en el mismo momento, con el fin de impedir que las fuerzas alemanas puedan trasladarse del frente oriental al occidental.

5. Ha acordado que los Estados Mayores militares de las tres potencias se mantengan en estrecho contacto en lo sucesivo, con miras a las inminentes operaciones en Europa. Se ha acordado particularmente que los Estados Mayores interesados concierten un plan de cobertura destinado a desconcertar y engañar al enemigo por lo que respecta a las expresadas operaciones.”

En un anexo separado se hacía constar el agradecimiento de los reunidos al país que les había hospedado. Se esbozaba un plan de ayuda a los iraníes en el doble plano económico y militar, por si los alemanes decidiesen tomar represalias por haber albergado a los Tres Grandes.

No figuraba en el comunicado, pero sí está en las notas de la Conferencia, un párrafo que es el que arroja mayor luz sobre el espíritu que animaba a los aliados:
“Nuestros Estados Mayores militares se nos han reunido en torno a la mesa de nuestra Conferencia y hemos concertado planes para la destrucción de las fuerzas alemanas. Hemos llegado a un completo acuerdo respecto al alcance y sincronización de las operaciones que han de desarrollarse desde el Oeste, el Este y el Sur”.
Roosevelt abandonó Teherán convencido de haber conquistado para siempre a Stalin. Creía a pies juntillas en el brindis, el último brindis, del dictador georgiano: “Ahora es seguro que nuestros pueblos actuarán juntos y amigablemente, no sólo en la hora actual, sino también después de la guerra”.

La segunda conferencia de los Tres Grandes se celebró en febrero de 1945, en la península de Crimea, del mar Negro, es decir, en territorio de la URSS

Fuente: ArteHistoria

Louis BEAM

Though I never knew them, though they died months before I was born, I can not help but to still feel the pain of those innocent people of Dresden [Germany] who suffered so unjustly, unfairly, and totally without fault February 13, 1945.

They make me think of abused children suffering for something that they do not understand. Abused children in a small way share with those now departed souls of Dresden the total unjustness of this world. Innocent people would not in a fair world, a decent world, be made to suffer.

They died this night. So many of them. Bombs raining down upon their heads like manna from hell -the heads of defenseless women and children for the most part. Babies in their cribs. Sobbing children in their mothers arms. Little girls without blemish, little boys full of anticipation at the excitement life promised them. The girls became blemished heaps of burnt flesh. The promise was broken by life to the boys. There would be no future for them.

Even now, across time, distance, culture, language, and ocean, I hear their cries. Ten thousand per second raising their helpless, tortured voices for mercy. No mercy. No relief. Only painful death from planes with United States written on them.

Why did my father’s generation do this? How could they kill all these people – then not know about it?

My father a decorated, battle field commissioned, combat hardened infantry veteran of Roosevelt’s army, told me as I lay at his feet as a small child listening that “Hitler was bad but the German people were good.” The Germans were “very smart” they just had a bad leader he said. He was proud of his role as a soldier in defeating Germany. And if soldiers are without responsibilities for their role in history then he had more right then many to be proud of his many decorations.

Then in 1984 after discovering the horrible truth about Dresden I spoke to my father about it. I told him more people were killed there in a single night of fire and bombing then in England during the entire war. He said “that is a lie.” He refused to believe me. I stressed to him that they were innocent people. He became angry with me. I asked him why they were killed. His anger boiled over and he said I was believing Nazi propaganda. I said to him “there are no Nazi’s daddy you killed them all, there are only people who study history” while pulling an Encyclopedia Americana from the shelf. The encyclopedia while only admitting to a numerical fraction of the dead at Dresden was yet sufficient to exceed England’s total bombing dead.

“These were refugees fleeing the communists” I said, becoming angry myself. “Why did Roosevelt order it done?” I demanded of him.

He read it and became silent. He read it again while running his fingers along the words carefully touching the numbers as if to make sure they were there and real. It then dawned on me. He did not know! He had lived through this time and because of a constant flood of propaganda from America’s news media this horrible war crime and others like it had been kept from him.

I could see this troubled him, for it was from him that I acquired the proclivity of taking up the fight for the down trodden, those abused unfairly. He was a kind man and would have never knowingly participated in such cruelty. I left for home then feeling sorry for Dad. I left him to think in peace. My anger at his being a part of those who did this horrible thing abated.

I swear I will not forget the crime against innocent people at Dresden. I will not forget who is responsible. I will not forget! I am but one small life. One dim light in a world covered with the darkness of cruel machinations by evil men. But this little light of mine, I will let it shine! For only by doing so do I serve my reason for existence, for life, for eternity.

I read as a young person that “all that is necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing.” Those words became a part of my soul, my life. Love is put to the test when one takes on the suffering of others – when one becomes a voice against evil for those who have none, a target of abuse for doing nothing but standing for justice.

There is no reward save knowing you have done that which is right. And there is hope. Hope that others will make the light that truth is a part of their life, their existence, so that together we become a bright ray for the future. A light unto the feet of all our fellow men who stumble.

In distant Dresden park they lie in their graves now. Rest my unknown friends, you downtrodden and despised of this world. Though we could not speak the same language if we stood before each other, though I never knew your names, and while your faces I can only imagine, you are my departed loved ones. My heart beats for yours. My mind remembers for yours. My tears for yours…

ALSO READ:

Dresden’s 14 Hours Of Hell

Luftwaffe Pilot Spared B-17 Pilot’s Life

The Unknown GERMAN Holocaust

Some Forgotten Post-War History

Eisenhower’s Death Camps

Pawns In The Game

Wars By Design

Habitat in the News!

If you’re in the kitchen tomorrow and are looking for something to do while you cook, tune in (or set your DVR)  to News Channel 8 at 7am to watch the broadcast of the Montgomery County Thanksgiving Parade. ReStore participated in the event with a group of Churchill High School students. Look for the ReStore truck!

ReStore was also featured in the Gazette last week for the Holiday Shoppe. The 2nd Annual ReStore Holiday Shoppe is an opportunity to reuse and recycle holiday decorations. Also, any customers who bring in donations for the Holiday Shoppe will receive 10% off their ReStore purchase. Don’t forget ReStore is having a Black Friday Sale, check out yesterday’s post for more info!

Donations are accepted from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday at the ReStore, 9100 Gaither Road, Gaithersburg. Donations are tax-deductible and proceeds support Habitat for Humanity. For details, call 301-947-3304 or visit www.ReStoreMoCo.org.

Habi-Titus wishes everyone a Happy Thanksgiving tomorrow!

Let’s cut to the chase, this is a fine looking cigar with a band to match, and that’s really where my knowledge of this cigar stops. While I’ve not had a lot of experience with Perdomo cigars, I was once privileged to attend an event where Billy Perdomo was present and was demonstrating the master techniques of cigar rolling.

As I said, the Lot 23 is an impressive looking cigar, unfortunately I cannot really speak to much else. Allow me to explain. Pre-light thing were business as usual. Lot 23 boasts a Ecuadorian Connecticut-shade wrapper, housing both Nicaraguan binder and filler. The wrapper, while smooth did show a few pronounced veins and a could of minor nicks. The aroma of this cigar reminded me of honey mixed with oak and topped off with a butter creaminess. Inviting to say the least. Upon making my initial cut of the double cap, a crack in the wrapper was produced. Apparently this particular cigar was tipping toward the dry side. Like most every smoker, I’ve found myself in this situation a time or two and usually it’s manageable. However, this time the crack protruded near an inch down the length of the cigar, almost touching the band.

It is here one is faced with any given number of possibilities. One, scrap the cigar and smoke something else. Two, smoke it as is and hope the crack does not worsen. Three, give up cigar smoking altogether. Or four, opt for an experiment. I chose the experiment.

Not sure what lead me to make my decision, but for whatever reason I thought it best to clip the cigar just below the crack. This required me to first remove the band; cutting off an inch of cigar at the head. This cut did cause the wrapper to loosen, as I expected it would. Rather than to proceed as normal from this point, I simply lit the freshly clipped head of the cigar and drew from the foot. In essence I smoked the cigar backwards. Surprisingly enough, this worked for a while, until about mid way thought the wrapper had come completely undone and thus rendered the cigar unenjoyable.

I will say however, that for the time I was able to smoke and enjoy this cigar I picked up greater flavor notes of the initial honey, oak and buttery-creaminess. Adding to this were a subtle nutty flavor and even hints of white pepper (thank you Nicaraguan tobacco). The burn was even and true, and of course the draw was fine. Large billows of smoke filled the air and I would imagine had things gone along as normal this would have been quite a fine cigar.

Never the less, my experience weighs heavily into my rating…

Personal rating: 5 (10 pt. scale)

Happy Smoking,
~R. Harrison Malone

BRITAIN AT WAR 1939 to 1945 What was life like during the war? by James Lingard (ISBN 9781434359339) provides ‘a concise history of the salient campaigns in World War 2 ideal for anyone who lacks the time or inclination to study the larger works. It does not shy away from controversial issues, such as Churchill’s insistence on advancing over the mountains of Italy in preference to the South of France, which proved to be a far easier road to victory.’

The book also provides an ‘excellent easy to digest overview of – - Britain during World War 2’ (History Times (May 2009) which will bring the subject alive for schools teaching the Home Front.

UCL People March 2009 – a University College London magazine – describes the work as a ‘short but powerful book which brings together personal reflections with the historical and political context.’ The author was a leading City of London solicitor with a lifetimes experience in sifting material facts from the vast mass of information now available.

A typical reader commented: ‘I enjoyed this book very much. Being reasonably familiar with the published history, and knowing a little of my parents’ and sister’s experience of the war as refugees in England, I found the personal family history, and the brief account of D-Day, the most interesting elements. But I was nevertheless greatly impressed by the books success in compressing the history of the war and its antecedents to such a modest length without apparently sacrificing any important theatre of conflict, and while maintaining a successful balance between social, military and biographical components. It gives a highly digestible overview of an important sector of modern history.’

Extracts from the book available on myebook.com have now been read over ten thousand times.

Manchester Museum's Polar Bear

As part of my research for the new Mammals Gallery I have been looking at Polar Bears. They are amazing animals that live right across the Arctic Circle around the North Pole. They live at the point where the ice meets water and mostly eat seals. They are covered in a thick layer of transparent hairs and have a layer of blubber up to 10cm thick to keep them warm.

Polar bears are very sensitive to climate change. Over the last few years some of the ice where the polar bears live, has melted. This means it is more difficult for them to hunt seals and it is harder from them to build up enough fat reserves for hibernation in Winter.

Polar bears have more contact with people than they used to. They have to search for food over a wider area and more people live near them. Lots of polar bears live around the town of Churchill in Canada, where tourists go to see them in the wild. Scientists use this as an opportunity to study polar bears and the effects of eco-tourism. The video below shows some of their work.

David Gelsthorpe, Curator of Palaeontology

Despite the fact I’m only 38 (this coming Friday in fact ! Happy B-Day to me ! LOL! ) one of my regrets is that I was taught how to pass an exam rather than think or find out for myself. through GCSE’s and A-levels, I learned about events but only really in terms of what I needed to say to get a good mark and not really to evaluate what it all meant. Admittedly A-Levels were a bit better but still not great. Or at least I didn’t think so at the time and certainly that impression hasn’t improved. It’s possible I just didn’t have the right attitude at school, but then not many teenagers have.

Over the years though, I’ve been more and more interested in the subjects I took. Specifically Politics and World Affairs since 1939. If only the technology available now was open to me then ! Reading about events during the second world war, the cold war and the two gulf wars have really come to life for me because I can cross reference the locations with Google Earth. You can see the layout of the land, zoom in on buildings and if available, click on links that take you to a Wikipedia page with more information.

It’s also collaborative in that users can post their own photos (although some are in the wrong place). It’s like a form of touring without the travel ! Google Earth is also 3d, so as you zoom in, the camera levels out and you can guide the ‘camera’ through the valleys giving you an appreciation of the terrain the armies crossed or the view the leaders had from their windows. You can almost imagine Churchill looking out from the White cliffs toward France. I’m not sure he ever did, but you can imagine !

For more recent events, for instance since 1998 (although some locations go back earlier than this) you can use the historical view function to see archived photo’s and compare the scenery to modern day. This is useful when looking at the Twin Towers for example. you can see them on fire, before they fell and then go through time to see how the site has evolved over the years.

It’s all blooming marvellous ! And from my experience as a user, much better than the Microsoft offering.

Here’s an excellent site that I found. http://www.thirdreichruins.com/ The details on here show comparative photos taken in the 1940’s to shots taken recently. They illustrate how the buildings and land has changed since the war. When I was at school, we really didn’t have this kind of information. All we knew was the British or Allied forces side of it. We were shown only the most famous pictures of the lands where the fighting actually took place. So it’s good to get beneath the skin of it all and see some revealing, shocking and surprising images. Using the location information on this site, you can look it up in Google Earth and really get a feeling for the scale of events. Some of the Nazi buildings left behind are remarkable, in size, ambition and ultimate failure.

I’m enjoying the journey I’m on with this. I’m finding out a lot more than I ever thought possible and more than ever it’s bringing home the significance and importance of world history and the sacrifice people made to get us where we are today.

Misterioasa sotie a lui Kim Philby

Cea mai redutabila cartita sovietica din toate timpurile a avut un punct vulnerabil. Kim Philby, omul infiltrat de KGB in fruntea contraspionajului britanic, ar fi putut fi deconspirat, in orice moment, de o femeie. Un risc pe care Philby si l-a asumat. Cine era femeia? Fosta sa sotie, frumoasa austriaca Litzy Friedmann. Un personaj la fel de fascinant ca si celebrul spion, insa mult mai misterios. Racolata ea insasi de NKVD la inceputul anilor ‘30, Litzy Kohlmann a fost primul “om de legatura” intre Philby si spionajul sovietic, in timpul razboiului din Spania. Biografia ei tumultuoasa constituie subiectul cartii “Un capitol din viata mea”, aparuta recent la Viena, sub semnatura scriitoarei Barbara Honigmann. O carte care dezvaluie detalii inedite despre tineretea lui Kim Philby, dintr-o perspectiva pe care arhivele secrete nu o pot oferi: perspectiva femeii care i-a influentat decisiv destinul. Cum a reusit autoarea sa afle asemenea informatii? Chiar de la mama ei, nimeni alta decat Litzy Friedmann insasi.

Un gentleman marxist
Kim Philby si Litzy Friedmann s-au cunoscut in toamna lui 1933, la Viena. Ea avea 23 de ani si el 21. Ea era fiica unor evrei saraci din Austria, el, unicul fiu al unei bogate familii din inalta societate britanica. Amandoi aveau insa puternice convingeri marxiste si frecventau cercurile “revolutionare”. Proaspat absolvent de Cambridge, Philby sosise la Viena animat de dorinta de a participa efectiv la “lupta de clasa”. Era o epoca violenta si tulbure. Confruntarile dintre sindicate si guvern impinsesera Austria in pragul razboiului civil. La Viena, Philby lucra pentru Organizatia Internationala de Sprijin Muncitoresc (MOPR). In secret, facea pe curierul pentru Partidul Comunist Austriac, aflat in ilegalitate. In timpul unei intruniri clandestine, Philby a vazut-o pentru prima oara pe Litzy Friedmann. A fost imediat cucerit de frumoasa bruneta, recent divortata. Pasiunea a fost reciproca. Multi ani mai tarziu, Litzy i-a povestit fiicei ei: “Era cu doi ani mai tanar ca mine… abia absolvise Cambridge-ul si era un barbat foarte chipes. Se purta ca un gentleman. Si era marxist. O combinatie rara. Schiopata usor, uneori mai vizibil, alteori mai putin. Ca multe dintre persoanele cu handicap, era foarte fermecator. Ne-am indragostit imediat.” Cei doi s-au casatorit in februarie 1934. Trei luni mai tarziu, Kim Philby se intorcea la Londra, insotit de proaspata lui sotie.

Racolarea

Barbara Honigmann sustine ca Philby ar fi fost racolat de NKVD abia dupa 1935, prin intermediul unui alt eminent absolvent de Cambridge, Douglas McLean. Mama sa i-ar fi marturisit acest lucru, comentand: “Englezii erau asa de naivi, asa de naivi”. Documente din arhivele sovietice, date publicitatii dupa detectarea deja celebrului Vasili Mitrohin, spun insa, o cu totul alta poveste.

Dragostea pentru Litzy l-a aruncat pe Philby direct in bratele spionajului sovietic. Potrivit “Arhivei lui Mitohin” (Allen Lane, the Penguin Press, Londra,1999), Litzy Friedmann fusese deja racolata de NKVD in 1933, la fel ca si buna sa prietena, Edith Suschitscky. Amandoua se aflau in legatura lui Arnold Deutsch (alias “Stefan”, alias “Otto”), si el evreu austriac, cel mai talentat “vanator de talente” pentru spionajul sovietic din epoca interbelica. In urmatorii ani, Deutsch avea sa racoleze celebra “celula de la Cambridge”.

In toamna lui 1933, Edith Suschitscky s-a maritat si ea cu un englez, doctorul Alex Tudor Hart si l-a urmat la Londra. Hart fusese si el racolat de Deutsch. El si Edith au primit – impreuna – numele conspirativ “Strela” (“Sageata”).

In mai 1934, Kim si Litzy Philby soseau si ei in Marea Britanie. Spre marea bucurie a lui Edith Suschitscky, care isi regasea astfel nu doar o veche prietena de la Viena, ci si o “tovarasa de lupta”. Aproape in acelasi timp se instalase la Londra si Arnold Deutsch.

Se pare ca Edith Suschitscky a fost cea care i-a atras atentia lui Deutsch asupra “potentialului” tanarului Philby. Cert este ca ea a intermediat prima intalnire “conspirativa” intre cei doi, in iunie 1934, pe o banca din Regent’s Park. Intrevederea a fost un succes. Philby a fost cucerit imediat de inteligenta si farmecul interlocutorului sau, un intelectual rafinat care se bucura deja de un imens prestigiu in mediile academice. Psiholog abil, Deutsch a speculat idealismul tanarului sau recrut. L-a invitat sa se alature razboiului secret lansat de Komintern impotriva fascismului, aflat in ascensiune in Europa. Prima sa misiune: sa rupa orice legaturi vizibile cu miscarile comuniste. “Avem nevoie de oameni care sa infiltreze In institutiile burgheze”, a explicat Deutsch. Kim Philby s-a angajat sa o faca.

Un debut anevoios

Au urmat trei ani dificili. Litzy a fost primita cu ostilitate fatisa de familia sotului ei. Ea i-a povestit, decenii mai tarziu, fiicei sale: “Mama lui Kim nu putea sa ma sufere. Era oripilata de mariajul nostru, pe care il considera o cumplita mezalianta. Singurul ei fiu sa se insoare cu o comunista evreica din Viena – ce cosmar!” Intre timp, Kim se straduia din rasputeri sa-si faca uitate vechile convingeri marxiste si sa isi croiasca o cariera in diplomatie. Fara succes. Cererile sale de a fi angajat la Foreign Office au fost respinse. Trecutul marxist si nevasta “atipica” nu erau bine vazute de “establishmentul” britanic. Abia a reusit sa obtina o slujba la o obscura publicatie lunara de orientare liberala, “Review of Reviews”. Mult sub asteptarile la care ar fi fost indreptatit un eminent absolvent de Cambridge.

La indemnul lui Arnold Deutsch, Philby s-a inscris intr-o organizatie de prietenie anglo-germana, botezata de Churchill, in epoca, “Brigada Heil Hitler”. Initiativa s-a dovedit un esec din punct de vedere informational. Philby era din ce in ce mai demoralizat.

In aceasta perioada, singurele sale contributii in favoarea spionajului sovietic au constat in identificarea altor potentiali “recruti” pentru Arnold Deutsch. El a fost cel care i-a recomandat pe Donald McLean si Guy Burgess, doi eminenti absolventi de la Cambridge. Impreuna cu Philby, Anthony Blunt si John Cairncross (racolati abia in 1937), vor intra in istoria spionajului sub denumirea de “Cei cinci magnifici”.

Razboiul din Spania

Cariera de agent sovietic a lui Kim Philby a inceput sa ia avant abia incepand cu anul 1937, dupa izbucnirea razboiului civil din Spania. Philby si-a oferit serviciile unei agentii de presa londoneze.

In februarie 1937, plecat corespondent in Spania, ca jurnalist independent, platit la bucata, pentru fiecare material transmis. In realitate, Philby avea alte prioritati, in afara gazetariei. “Sarcina mea era aceea de a obtine informatii la prima mana cu privire la orice aspecte ale efortului fascist de razboi”, avea sa noteze el, peste ani, in Memoriile sale. Potrivit “Arhivei lui Mitrohin” misiunea lui Philby fusese, in realitate, mult mai ambitioasa. El primise instructiuni sa-l asasineze pe generalul Francisco Franco, liderul fortelor nationaliste. Ordinul venise de la Moscova si fusese aprobat, cu siguranta, de insusi Stalin. Un ordin care i-a lasat probabil perplecsi pe controlorii de la Londra ai lui Philby. Acestia au avertizat, imediat, conducerea NKVD ca misiunea depaseste cu mult puterile tanarului lor recrut.

Philby s-a intors la Londra in mai 1937, fara sa-l fi vazut vreodata de-aproape pe Franco. “Era foarte deprimat”, se preciza intr-o nota informativa a NKVD. A reusit insa sa se angajeze la “Times” si sa se intoarca in Spania. Spre sfarsitul anului, un incident tragic avea sa-i aduca celebritatea. Masina in care calatorea impreuna cu alti corespondenti de razboi a fost lovita de o salva de artilerie. Trei jurnalisti au murit. Philby a scapat cu rani usoare si a scris un reportaj cutremurator. A devenit, peste noapte, un adevarat erou. Toate usile au inceput sa i se deschida. La 2 martie 1938, a fost decorat de insusi Franco. Intre timp insa, NKVD-ul renuntase la planul de a-l asasina pe liderul spaniol.

Litzy, omul de legatura intre Philby si Moscova

Barbara Honigmann dezvaluie in cartea sa ca mama ei a fost cea care, in timpul razboiului din Spania, a facut legatura intre Kim Philby si spionajul sovietic. La ordinele Moscovei, Litzy (care primise numele conspirativ “Maria”) se instalase la Paris. Calatorea, insa frecvent, pentru a-si intalni sotul in hoteluri din Biarritz, Perpignan sau Gibraltar. Relatiile dintre cei doi devenisera din ce in ce mai mult “profesionale”. Philby era un fustangiu notoriu, sau, cum ii placea sa se descrie, “un atlet al sexului”. La Paris, Litzy incepuse o aventura cu un sculptor olandez. Amandoi aveau o conceptie cat se poate de neconventionala despre casnicie. Totusi, la izbucnirea celui de-al doilea razboi mondial, Kim si Litzy s-au intors la Londra, ca sot si sotie. Philby a primit imediat un post in cadrul Sectiei D a SIS (Secret Intelligence Service), sectie care se ocupa cu organizarea de “actiuni subversive in spatele liniilor inamice”. Incepea, astfel, o prodigioasa cariera in cadrul serviciilor britanice de informatii. O adevarata mana cereasca pentru Moscova.

In septembrie 1941, Kim Philby a fost transferat la Sectia V -de contrainformatii – a SIS. Sediul ei se afla la St. Albans, la doar cativa metri de imobilul care adapostea arhivele operative. Imprietenindu-se cu arhivarul, mare amator de gin, Philby a reusit in numai cateva luni sa fotocopieze si sa trimita la Moscova dosarele tuturor agentilor britanici din strainatate. Ceea ce, paradoxal, i-a atras neincrederea mai marilor din NKVD. Acestia nu puteau crede ca englezii nu dispun de o retea de spionaj in Uniunea Sovietica. Ca nu exista nici macar o rezidenta la Moscova. Si totusi acesta era adevarul. Spionajul britanic avea cu totul alte prioritati, fiind canalizat exclusiv pe efortul de razboi. Rusii erau aliati si tratati ca atare. Cert este ca, pana in 1944, Moscova a fost extrem de reticenta fata de Philby si de ceilalti “magnifici de la Cambridge”, crezandu-i “agenti provocatori”, controlati de Londra.

Epilog

Kim si Litzy Philby au divortat in 1942. Mariajul se incheiase, in realitate, de mult. Dupa razboi, Litzy a parasit definitiv Marea Britanie si s-a instalat in Berlinul de Est. S-a recasatorit cu jurnalistul de stanga, Georg Kohlmann, cu care a avut un copil, astazi scriitoarea Barbara Honigmann.

Kim Philby a cunoscut o spectaculoasa ascensiune profesionala, ajungand sa fie cea mai nociva cartita sovietica din istorie. A fost, pe rand, seful Sectiei a IX-a din cadrul SIS (contrainformatii pe spatiul sovietic), sef de antena in Turcia si ofiter de legatura la Washington. Declinul sau a inceput in 1951, odata cu deconspirarea lui Burgess si McLean, care au reusit sa se refugieze la Moscova. Philby avea sa fie deconspirat abia in 1963. Si el a reusit sa fuga, cu sprijinul sovieticilor. A murit la Moscova, in 1988, alcoolic si profund deprimat. Viata in URSS se dovedise cu totul altfel decat isi imaginase.

Litzy Friedmann-Philby-Kohlmann a murit in 1991, la varsta de 80 de ani. Isi pierduse de mult toate iluziile cu privire la comunism, cu toate ca in Germania de Est se bucurase de un statut privilegiat. Acest statut i-a permis, in 1984, sa calatoreasca la Viena. A plecat cu doua valize si nu s-a mai intors niciodata.

Sursa:ziua.net (Miruna Munteanu)

A little history….

This brand was developed in 1875 by Inocencio Alvarez and Mannin Garcia, and immediately showed its quality by winning gold medals in four universal expositions between 1885 and 1900. But it really took off after its acquisition in 1903 by Jose Rodriguez Fernandez, known as “Pepin.” Named for the lovers in William Shakespeare’s tragedy of the same name (written circa 1596), the brand also is traditionally credited with the introduction of the “Churchill” shape in honor of the British statesman Winston Churchill.

Wrapper: Cuban
Binder: Cuban
Filler: Cuban
Shape: Churchill
Size: 7 X 49
Draw: A slight resistance, but overall good.
Burn: Good (Ash was a little flaky, but not too bad.)
Construction: The wrapper had a few thick veins, but overall it was well-constructed.

The first 1″ was a bit bland with a hint of dark chocolate. The end of the first 1/3 tasted like a light cocoa and was medium-bodied at that point. Next came a blast of cinnamon and heavy cream. The last 2″ had flavors of bitter chocolate and spice.

Overall, this is a well-balanced cigar.

 

Grade: B

Price: $4 – my price $1.50

So once again I felt like going on a little drive and I just needed an everyday smoke. I have had a Paso Doble before and I already knew I could finish one of these in this hour drive.

So I think this cigar is not really something that’s made the same way constantly. They seem to taste slightly different every time, but that’s okay, they are pretty good.

So the pre smoke is relatively good. The cigar is very loosely packed and it is not hard to get air flowing through it at all. I was just sitting in the parking lot and getting my stuff in the car. I really was not in a hurry at all so this really gave me time to think about the cigar. These cigars are really vainy on the outside with a light wrapper.

It was not very breezy outside so I just sat in my car, opened the door and did this the old way: matches. Had to use two because I didn’t think that one did the trick, but I could have been wrong, better to light it then do it while I’m driving. The cigar itself was a little on the dryer side because my roommate can’t figure out how to keep cigar at the right humidity. The cigar lit up nicely and I got on my way.

I think the cigar smoked a little fast, but I also think that’s because the cigar was so loosely backed. I, for some reason, will smoke these cigar perfectly well when I drive. What I mean is that the cigar will smoke evenly, the ash will be long and it will not get how at all.

So nearing the end the ash fell off in my car. The cigar was down to the last two inches. I had only one thought in my mind; the leaf is different in this part of the cigar. I think I’m right because the flavor changed an I needed to throw the cigar out because it got way too hot. I tried to cool it down, but that did not work at all, the cigar just got bitter on me and that was the end of the Paso Doble.

These cigars are an everyday smoker’s dream because they do have flavor, loads of smoke and they will please a regular smoker. Flavor is on the medium side, but at least it tastes like a cigar not a cigarette. Enjoy.

O imponderável é o que há de mais incrível nos esportes, particularmente no futebol. Ontem, no jogo do Grêmio x Palmeiras aconteceu uma cena raríssima, dessas que deixam todos com a boca aberta, tentando entender o que aconteceu.

Aos 46 minutos do primeiro tempo, já nos descontos, o guerreiro argentino Máxi Lopez, livre na área, recebeu, virou e chutou. Marcos defendeu e sobrou para Marques, que empurrou para o gol. Até aí, tudo bem. O incrível veio depois, quando os jogadores do Palmeiras começaram a brigar. O ‘craque’ Obina foi tirar satisfação de Maurício, que deveria ter marcado Lopez. Claro que ele não gostou, mas a reação foi tentar acertar o Obina. Obina se esquivou e encheu a mão na cara do sujeito. Ai, veio a turma do deixa disso. Mas já era tarde demais. O juiz tinha visto e mandou os caras para a rua quando o jogo recomeçou.

O Palmeiras liderou o campeonato brasileiro por 18 rodadas. Aí, não conseguiu segurar o rojão e começou a ceder espaço para outros times. À medida que o time ia perdendo a distância, começaram a jogar mal, cada vez pior. O problema que estava em campo extrapolou para extra-campo.

Em um dos jogos, o juiz anulou um gol legítimo de Obina. O dirigente do Palmeiro, Luiz Gonzaga Belluzzo, um dos economistas mais respeitados do país perdeu as estribeiras e chegou a dizer que ia dar porrada em Simon.

Pronto.

O Palmeiras se perdeu de vez. O destempero de Belluzzo passou para o campo no jogo seguinte, quando os palmeirenses empataram em casa com o Sport. E destrambelhou de vez com o episódio de ontem, no Olímpico.

É incrível o poder do exemplo, da liderança. Por mais que um líder precise colocar para fora suas emoções, ele nunca pode fazer isso de forma descontrolada — ainda mais via imprensa. Isso reflete claramente na equipe. Os jogadores do Palmeiras passaram a acreditar em conspiração, por meio de seu líder. Isso abala a moral, pois se há conspiração, não adianta você jogar bem, pois sempre darão um jeito de colocar você para baixo.

Dia desses, vi o filme Into the Storm, que mostra os dias em que Churchill jogou xadrez de guerra com Hitler na 2ª guerra mundial. Há vários momentos em que fica evidente o poder das ações e das palavras do líder. Muito simbolismo. Um grande craque com o qual a humanidade foi presenteada para derrubar Hitler (sobre isso há o fantástico filme “Cinco Dias em Londres”, do historiador John Lukácz, veja no Google Books ou na Livraria Cultura.)

O paralelo é abissal, eu sei, mas é de liderança que estamos falando. O Palmeiras perdeu o campeonato graças ao líder que não agiu conforme se esperava dele em um momento crucial.

Juca Kfouri escreveu sobre isso aqui. E o Belluzzo enviou uma resposta muito interessante para ele. Mostrando que voltou à razão, com estilo e verve apurada. Com a tranqüilidade e o distanciamento crítico que o escrever possibilita. Mas foi tarde demais…

(P.s.: Hoje, os jogadores do Palmeiras fizeram as pazes.)

Y aunque es verdad (creo que este año me he comprado como una docena de libros en la tienda online, y ya tengo la cesta repletita de próximos títulos a adquirir), mucho me temo que el comentarlo es poco más que una excusa para colgar en el blog la imágen que hay sobre estas líneas, que he encontrado en el blog Book lovers never go to bed alone…

Los próximos libros que tengo intención de encargar a la web? The Coffin Dancer de Jeffery Deaver (con la idea de ir haciéndome con la serie completa de novelas del detective Lincoln Rhyme, de la que he tenido ocasión de leerme ya The Bone Collector y The Vanished Man, y me han dejado un sabor de boca pero que muy agradable), A Storm of Swords de George R.R. Martin (también quiero completar la saga de Juego de Tronos), y The Road, de Cormac McCarthy, que no he parado de escuchar buenas críticas sobre él, y está a un precio irrisorio… Y claro, los tres volúmenes restantes de The Second World War de Winston Churchill!

Por otra parte, tengo intención también de empezar a comprarme los libros de la nueva edición de Discworld, que a pesar de tener ya varios de ellos en castellano, estoy absolutamente enamorado de la edición que está saliendo ahora, desde The Colour of Magic…

Así que si, yo también soy un adicto… en mi caso, a la tinta de imprenta, al olor a papel viejo, y al sonido que hace al pasar hoja. Y mientras tanto, van ya más de 30 libros este año, y aproximándome peligrosamente a las 17000 páginas…

Y para acompañar, unos minutos musicales:

After being taken offline by Swedish authorities in August this year, The Pirate Bay came back online with it’s head held high.  As far as I can gather, the ISP that hosts TPB stood to be fined a whopping $70,600 in fines if they didn’t pull the plug.  TPB came back with this statement shortly after coming back online; a re-hash of Winston Churchill’s “We Shall Fight On the Beaches” speech.

Make of it what you will.

We have, ourselves, full confidence that if all do their duty, if nothing is neglected, and if the best arrangements are made, as they are being made, we shall prove ourselves once more able to defend our Internets, to ride out the storm of war, and to outlive the menace of tyranny, if necessary for years, if necessary alone.

Even though large parts of Internets and many old and famous trackers have fallen or may fall into the grip of the Ifpi and all the odious apparatus of MPAA rule, we shall not flag or fail. We shall go on to the end, we shall fight in France, we shall fight on the ef-nets and darknets, we shall fight with growing confidence and growing strength in the air, we shall defend our Internets, whatever the cost may be, we shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight on the baywords.org, we shall fight on the /. and on the digg, we shall fight in the courts; we shall never surrender, and if, which I do not for a moment believe, the Internets or a large part of it were subjugated and starving, then our Empire beyond the seas, armed and guarded by the Anon Fleet, would carry on the struggle, until, in Cerf’s good time, the New World, with all its power and might, steps forth to the rescue and the liberation of the old.

Signed;

The Pirate Bay Crew – Now until needed.

The Pirate Bay’s owners are pretty much renowned for their hardiness and resillience in the face of massive legal action from companies as large as the RIAA, the MPAA, Time Warner and Microsoft.

The letters from various companies demanding that their content be removed are available for all to see on their website and often you’ll find them almost laughing in the face of their adversaries, and rightly so.  For you to understand why TPB isn’t really in any violation of any sort of copyright law (especially in Sweden), you will need to know how the Bit Torrent network operates, but for all intents and purposes TPB as a site within itself is hosting a series of downloadable links and nothing more.

November 14, 2009
Churchill, Manitoba

Today was our final day in Churchill.  It always seems to come to a close too quickly.  As we ventured out, another group arrived to take our place at the Studies Center.  Depending on the weather, it’s possible the bears will only be on land for another few days or a week before the ice freezes and they’re able to commence their hunting and feeding season.

Churchill Candlestick Sunset

When we were reunited with our peers last night, those of us who went on the tundra buggy yesterday learned that the rest of the group also experienced a magical day.  They too were treated to a bear approaching the bus in close proximity and a display of bears sparring just off the side of the road.  And, of course, the candlestick sunset was in view to all those who were fortunate enough to be outside last night.  Unobstructed by large buildings and developments, Churchill sunsets are spectacular and seem to overtake the entire skyline, not just the West coast.

Another bear visited us at the Studies Center last night.  Most of us were upstairs for the evening’s class and did not see the bear.  However, a few members of our group, too tired to focus on the evening’s lessons, were resting in the quiet lounge and were again surprised by a bear that pressed its face up against the window.  J.D, Logan, Deborah, and David notified Studies Center staff about the bear and were able to capture a few pictures before the bear was scared off once more.  I saw some of the pictures and if any are emailed to me, I’ll post them here.  Again, the zoo imagery struck me with irony.  Although Studies Center staff couldn’t allow the bear to remain in such close proximity, I was happy we got to experience the feeling of being locked behind bars while a large, potentially dangerous creature observed us curiously.

Polar bear close-up

We saw a few bears today, including another that walked right up to the window of our bus.  The bear got so close that we were instructed to close our windows.  After some bear observations, we pulled off the side of the road to build an igloo.  Chuck instructed us about how to cut and stack the ice to create the igloo structure.  Once built, we took turns crawling inside the igloo to get a sense of the warmth and cover it offered from the elements.  Chuck told a story about an igloo he built a couple years ago.  He said that it was so cold and stormy out that as soon as he completed the igloo an Arctic fox darted inside and curled up.

Building an igloo

It was noticeably colder today, with fog and snow drifting around us.  We took a walk through the forest while Chuck pointed out the vegetation and various food sources it offers Arctic critters like hares and foxes.  We picked and tasted crowberries.  This forest outing was more pleasant than last year’s version that had us standing in 30 below temperatures, among several feet of snow.

On our way back to the center we stopped by a crashed plane that remains untouched among the rocks and terrain of Churchill.  The plane has been nicknamed “Miss Piggy” and ironically crashed in 1979 while carrying a large load of soda rumored to be Coca Cola (a company that adopted polar bears as its mascot) over the region.  I’m not sure why the plane hasn’t been hauled away, but it’s quite a sight to see lodged among the rocks.

We went back to the Studies Center, had a nice meal, and gathered our luggage.  Our departure from the Studies Center was delayed briefly when, once again, we were visited by a polar bear. After the bear moved out of the area and we could safely leave the Center, we headed for the train station. We passed by our igloo on the way to the train station and pulled over to have another look.  It was dark outside so Chuck crawled inside the igloo and illuminated it with a flashlight so we could get a sense of how it would look with a fire burning inside.  We boarded the train, most of us expressing sadness to be departing the wonder of Churchill and the polar bears.

I was heartbroken to be leaving.  Throughout the duration of our stay, we learned more about the political issues in Churchill that make it difficult to further protect the bears and prosecute some of the unscrupulous people that are exploiting them.  Tourism generated by people wanting to see the polar bears is the primary source of revenue for the town, so people are resistant to further regulate tour operations.  There’s a lot that needs to be done for the polar bears of Churchill, both locally and globally.  There are initiatives I’d like to become more involved in, some that are more challenging to take on from a distance.  Having witnessed the corruption of some tour operators and photographers, I began contemplating what it would be like if all humans left the Churchill area and let polar bears live undisturbed.  The bears would still face the threats of our global impact on the Arctic region, but it seems several unnecessary day-to-day stresses would be eliminated without our presence on their land.

On the flip-side, it could be argued that studying the bears is a necessary means to help sustain their population.  And I know from personal experience that my encounters with polar bears have sparked positive lifestyle changes in those I’ve shared stories with and those whom have read my blog.  I certainly intend to make this annual journey for as long as the trip is offered and the bears are in existence.  At the same time, I’d love to see some additional regulations implemented by the town of Churchill.  Perhaps they could institute limited visitor permits, impose a tax on tour operators to accrue more funds to help study and sustain the bear population in the area, fine and prosecute those who bait bears for personal gain and profit . . .

An important question

The vivid dream I had that sparked my initial Arctic expedition one year ago involved an interaction with the last polar bear on Earth.  He was sitting on the last piece of remaining ice, looking at me as if to say, “What are you going to do?”  As I looked into the eyes of the polar bears we encountered during this  year’s journey, I saw them asking the same question.

I intend to become more informed about the local issues in Churchill. I intend to find out how, as the people bringing an influx of revenue-generating business to the area, we can further influence additional changes to help protect the polar bear population in Churchill.  I am also committed to further personal lifestyle changes to minimize my impact on climate change, as well as becoming more informed and involved in the global issues that threaten the sustainability of the polar bear population.

What are you going to do?

November 13, 2009
Churchill, Manitoba

Polar bear cub

Last night a polar bear visited us at the Studies Center.  Following dinner and preceding our evening lecture Shannon heard a loud knock at one of the side doors.  The door leads outside from the quiet lounge area and is not used by visitors to the Center.  This entrance is specifically used to load luggage in and out of the building.  A new group of students was expected at the Center last night so when Shannon heard the knock at the door her first assumption was that a representative from the new group was at the door.  Thankfully, before she considered opening the door Shannon thought aloud, “I wonder if there’s a bear out there . . .” Shannon’s statement prompted Jenny, a volunteer at the Great Bear Foundation, to look out the window.  Sure enough, there was a large polar bear, standing upright, banging forcefully on the door.

The bear made its way to a window in the quiet lounge and peered in at the guests who were gathering for an impromptu happy hour glass of wine.  After satisfying its curiosity with that room, the bear walked around the building and pressed its face against the window of one of the dorm rooms.  Our classmates Jeremy, Elissa, Steven, and Christina, were startled by the bear’s big face in their bedroom window.  Within minutes the Studies Center staff scared the bear away by firing flares into the sky.

For me, this close encounter with a polar bear at the Studies Center sparked images of the zoo.  In this case, we humans were in a building, behind windows secured with bars, as polar bears looked in at us with curiosity.   It seemed a fitting display of karma, and while safety is imperative, I was happy that we were all reminded of our place in Churchill.  This is the polar bear’s home, they have the upper-hand here – we are the strange alien creatures in their land.

This morning approximately half our group (myself included) set out on a Tundra Buggy to get a closer look at the bears.  I have mixed feelings about the buggies.  Their impact on the tundra is a hot topic and disputed from both advocates and protesters.  At the same time, the buggies potentially allow us to get closer to the bears and observe more of their natural behavior.  This year we’ve been fortunate to have many close encounters with bears right off the main publicly accessible roads in Churchill. I considered giving up my space on the buggy, but I’m happy I maintained it.

Using a rock as a pillow

From the buggy we saw 5 different sets of moms with cubs ranging in age from 10 months to two years old.  The first mom we saw was walking with her male cub that was almost the same size his mom.  Once she assessed the area and felt her cub was safe, the mom found a rock to use as a pillow and rested comfortably.  Meanwhile, the curious young cub made his way up to our buggy.  I had my telephoto lens on, so at a certain point the bear was too close to photograph.  This was actually a blessing – it allowed me to put the camera down and observe the bear through the open window and the back deck.  On several occasions the bear made his way toward me on the buggy and looked at me with curious, sweet eyes.  I feel a deep connection with the bears, an understanding, and an unspoken communication.  Their eyes share a story of vulnerability and playfulness.  In these moments it’s important to remember their sheer strength and power.  One look at a 900-pound bear crossing the ice serves as a quick reminder that any encounter closer than the one we were experiencing could be deadly.  After inspecting the buggy from all angles, the cub made its way back to his mother and rested by her side.

Polar Bears Sparring

Just as were about to pull away and continue down the path, we saw 2 bears that had previously been resting approach each other.  “It looks like we might see some sparring,” our buggy guide J.P. noted.  He turned the vehicle off and we observed the sparring bears for what seemed to be at least half an hour.  Sparring is a natural play-fighting that allows the bears to practice for the real battles they face during mating season.  Male bears in Churchill outnumber female bears by an estimated ratio of 3 to 1, so often males need to fight for mating rights.  The 2 bears sparred for a while and then a third bear approached.  All 3 bears circled each other, assessing another sparring match.  2 bears – one that fought previously and the new bear – engaged in another round of sparring.  The third bear, tired from the first match, made its way to our vehicle and inspected us curiously.

As the sparring bears concluded their match, a mom, followed closely by her 2 young cubs

Mom and cubs single file

approached us from the other direction.  The cubs were born in January and walked in a single-file line behind their mother.  A male bear was following them at a distance.  Hungry male bears will attack and eat cubs, so the mom was moving her cubs swiftly to safety.  Once the mom and cubs got a safe distance from the male, she laid back on the ice and we watched as she nursed the young cubs. We counted our blessings again as it’s rare to observe nursing behavior.

All in all we counted close to 40 bear sightings today.  It was extremely special to observe the sparring and nursing behavior and to have the bears approach us so closely.  As we headed back to town toward the end of the tour we came across an older male bear that was quite a character.  He was rolling over, biting his paws, and stretching.  When he noticed us, he lifted his head and looked at us between his legs, then went back to his playful polar bear

Polar bear yoga

yoga.  He was extremely flexible, pulling his back legs over his stomach and up toward his mouth.  He looked at us as if he knew were taking pictures and he was hamming it up for the cameras.  As people cooed about how “cute” the bear was, we were once again reminded of his power.  After another half hour of playful stretching and tumbling, the bear sat up.  When he arose, back to us, we could see the battle scars from fights during the years.  J.P. estimated that the large male was 6 to 7 years old.  It’s almost as if our “cute” bear friend wanted to remind us of his size and power, being sure to sit up before we pulled away.

We saw several bears resting; other younger bears were out testing the ice.  We watched as one bear hopped from one block of ice to another and practiced thumping the ice with its two front paws.  Another mom with two slightly older cubs approached us as we made our way back to town.  Again, the bears were too close to photograph.  I spoke softly to the bears as they approached me on the buggy.  Then I heard J.P., “look at that sunset!”  We turned our attention away from the bears and saw an exquisite sunset.  I’ve seen a lot of beautiful sunsets throughout my travels and at home over the Santa Monica ocean, but this sunset with its beam of light radiating from vertically from the horizon through the sky was the most magnificent sunset I’ve seen.  Later I learned that this type of sunset is often referred to as a candlestick sunset and is quite common in the North.

As with the magical bear, fox, sunset, Arctic hare day that preceded today, tonight’s sunset punctuated another perfect day.

November 12, 2009
Churchill, Manitoba

Bear gazing at the Bay

Last night, prior to our Northern Lights outing, Chuck taught us about Arctic ecology. We learned about some of the factors contributing to climate change and why the Arctic region is so vulnerable. The opening up of the Northwest Passage and increased offshore drilling put this area at further risk. Chuck encouraged us to learn more about Russia’s direct involvement in this area as well as becoming more informed about Alaska’s offshore drilling and hunting policies. Chuck mentioned that one massive oil spill in the Arctic would be enough to destroy the region. He also stated that if policies remain consistent and without better regulation, the entire population of Polar Bears in Alaska could be extinct within 5 years.

I wanted to get a sense of the number of bears in the Churchill region and to get a better understanding of the threat to the Churchill bear population. Are the Churchill polar bears in as grave danger as those in Alaska? I asked several biologists in Churchill as well as a representative from Polar Bears International about the current population of polar bears in the region. Estimates ranged from 600 to 900 polar bears depending on the source. The Hudson Bay extends further South than other Arctic regions and is also where the ice freezes first, so bears migrate here from both the North and the South to get out on the ice and hunt seals. This migration and the decrease in funded research makes it difficult to know for sure how many bears are “residents” of Churchill versus those passing through to hunt seals when the ice freezes. While it’s difficult to get an exact count of the polar bear population in Churchill, everybody seemed to agree that it’s fewer than 1,000 bears.

Face to face with a polar bear

Having spent the past 2 days (and several days last year) gazing into the eyes of polar bears it saddened me greatly to have an even better understanding of their potential demise. Having an awareness of the climate change issues facing the Arctic region is different from experiencing its impact first-hand. There are things we can do individually to help decrease our contribution to climate change: utilizing high efficiency appliances, light bulbs and low-flow or dual flush toilets; walking or cycling when possible instead of driving; ensuring car tires are properly inflated for maximum fuel efficiency; offsetting our carbon footprint by contributing to clean energy alternatives, etc. Stop Global Warming lists several simple actions we can take as individuals to minimize our personal impact. Climate change is also a global issue – there’s a need for tighter regulations of offshore drilling, it would behoove North America to take a more vested interest in Russia and their perceived “ownership” of Arctic waters. We can pressure our government representatives about these issues, those of us that are eligible can run for political office, we can help educate people about these issues (as Chuck continues to educate those of us in his Arctic Ecology Field Course).

Bear with bone in mouth

With the reminder of threats facing the polar bears and Arctic ecology fresh in mind, we set out for another day of bear watching. We tracked one bear that seemed to be on a mission, with a very clear path. He moved swiftly over the snow and rocks, pausing every few minutes to sniff the air before taking his next step. The sense of smell is a polar bear’s strongest sense – it’s how they locate a suitable food source, typically seals. It’s estimated that polar bears sense of smell can range several miles, including underground and through the thick Arctic ice. The large bear made its way toward another bear that was sleeping at the base of rocky hill. We thought perhaps there could be an interaction between the bears – maybe some sparring. Instead, the bear found a large leg bone of an unidentifiable animal. Based on the length and structure of the leg bone Chuck guessed it could have come from a caribou. The bone was out of place and it’s speculated that it was bait placed by tour operators or photographers to lure the bears closer to areas accessible for public viewing.

One of the most disturbing things I noticed during this trip is the double-message humans are sending to bears. There are various methods of baiting bears that we observed, all of which lead the bears closer to human interaction. Yet when a bear gets “too close” people shoot flares and cracker shots at it. If a bear is considered to be a nuisance, it’s darted and placed in Polar Bear Jail where it sits caged, in a metal and concrete building, until the ice freezes and it can be transported further from town. Sometimes bears are transferred from jail before the ice freezes, but as long as a bear is in jail we’ve removed it from its natural life cycle, rhythm and interactions with other bears.

The alternative to bear jail is likely that the bears would be shot and killed. So while the jail is a more humane and preferred method of limiting unwelcome human-bear interactions, it’s our responsibility as people invading the bear’s habitat to minimize the number of bears that end up in jail each year. The more responsible we are with our human behavior, the less likely polar bears will engage in unwanted bear behavior.

Little bear moves away from the larger bear

We watched the two bears, as the larger bear inspected the leg bone, the smaller bear that had been there first slowly walked away. The smaller bear instinctively knew it was no competition for the large bear and that it needed to move out of the way and let the large bear have the bone. As the bigger bear gnawed on the bone, the little bear maintained a substantial distance and stood submissively, head down.

We continued driving the roads of Churchill and observing numerous bears. We saw bears crossing the road to get closer to the shore, conserving energy and resting, testing the strength of the ice and generally preparing for the imminent hunting season. It took longer for the ice to freeze last year so the bears got a late start. Luckily, the ice remained intact later into the Spring than usual, allowing some moms and new cubs additional hunting time upon emerging from their dens toward the end of the season. This additional time to hunt helped further sustain the adult polar bear population as well as that of the young cubs. We’ve seen a few skinny bears during this trip, but all in all, the bears seem to be in better shape and stronger than they were last year at the same time.

We enjoyed a beautiful sunset before returning to the Studies Center for another informative evening lecture followed by the ritual late-night gathering in the kitchen.

Churchill Sunset