The day after the Kraft Mountain brouhaha, Keith, Kristine, and I headed out to no other place than Kraft Mountain. The hike took us past some beautiful boulders, which caused Keith’s fingertips to salivate with desire. He’s a boulder-er by trade and has incredible strength and skill on small holds and powerful moves. We coaxed him to keep walking with us and on the back side of the mountain, after a half an hour or so, we made it to a batch of three sport climbs at The Family Crag. The book didn’t give the climbs very good ratings, but we were amped to climb regardless and began with the easiest of the three climbs. A 5.8 that Keith lead. He was gushing about climbing on his favorite rock: sandstone. It’s incredibly featured which makes the climbing very fun and dynamic as you pick your holds on our way to the top. I led it next and then it was Kristine’s turn to rope up. She had been feeling a little funny from the night before and wasn’t quiet sure how well she’d climb, or even if she would climb at all. We told her she couldn’t miss such a nice climb, especially since it was perfect for her ability. She conceded.

She felt a little out of balance as she began the climb but quickly got in the rhythm as she made it to the top without any difficulty. Keith and I were both impressed.

We then moved down the wall and I led the next climb, which was a very smooth 5.9. Keith followed and then again came Kristine and basically walked up the climb in very good style.

I again kicked off the third and last climb on that wall–another 5.9. It was a very nice climb. It seemed harder than the last climb. The holds were smaller and the wall a bit more overhung. I definitely felt a bit pumped when I reached the top. Keith climbed it next and really liked it. I told you those small, crimpy holds are his vice. I really wasn’t sure if Kristine would make it up the climb unless she exercised all the technique that she’s learned so far. She’d have to move up the wall using mostly her legs, while hanging on her arms and keeping them from getting too fatigued. She’d have to look ahead at the next few moves so she could commit to them and climb past without using up all her energy. Well. She did it! And made it look easy.

It was getting late when we finished the last climb. The sun would be setting within the hour. We completed our hike around Kraft Mountain and made it back to the car with the last few rays of sun lighting our way. Our fatigue and hunger shot flairs into our conversation demanding nothing other than ‘Chipotle’. Like the bat-signal a big barbacoa burrito lighted the sky. Half an hour later three hungry and satisfied climbers walked into a bowl of chips and guacamole. If we had ordered a round of drinks I would have made a toast to Kristine, “A climber! Body and spirit!”

Today at work, I was able to observe for a while, a man standing outside the doors of the mall (the temple of consumtion). In our town there is a magazine that’s made with the purpose of helping those who have a hard time getting their life together for different reasons. The articles are about social issues, and also about these people, in an effort to help people see the individuals behind the problem. 
 Half of the price goes to the seller, and the rest goes to make the magazine.

I think this is one of those genius win-win ideas that make our world a little better. The person selling is able to work and get paid, while also getting to talk to people and at least lower some of the walls we often seem to raise when people don’t fit into our frame of mind. The people reading the articles get a nuanced picture of what life is really like on the rougher side, and hopefully they gain some understanding and compassion for their neighbours.

This is already enough to make me very hopeful about the state of our community, but my spirit was lifted even further today as I stood there watching this salesman. In the brief period I observed him, several people bought the magazine, but more importantly, there were also people stopping just to chat and say hello for a second. That’s just wonderful!

The big risk for these people is to lead an isolated life in the shadows, being ignored by others and thus feeling like they don’t exist. Just a nod and a hello is actually enough to show this person that he exists and that I respect him. (See also the earlier post “By this roadside”)
 And most of all, it confirms his worth as a human regardless of his circumstances, and that’s worth more than money in my book.

Today, while you all eat your turkey, mashed potatoes, and pumpkin pie, Jonathan and I will be enjoying our last day here in Vegas, at the Red Rocks. We will cram as much climbing as possible into our last day, and (hopefully) since it is a holiday we won’t have crowds to contend with.

We have been here for three fantastic weeks. While not a fan of Vegas, the rocks have held our attention and enthusiasm. We could easily stay another month and still not have done 1/2 of the climbs here. This gives us a good excuse to come back and send the climbs that challenged us on this trip and venture out to try more of the ones we haven’t yet experienced.

Our trip has been so fun and full of adventures, the time has flown by. It is hard to believe that it is already Thanksgiving – a big mile marker signaling only a few weeks left until Christmas, the end of the road (for awhile).  I suppose there are definite signs that we have been on the road – Jonathan’s ever growing beard, the state of our small wardrobe (dirty and increasing in number of holes), the stronger climbing ability and leaner bodies. I guess we have been doing this awhile.

Tomorrow we head south to Arizona to spend a few days with some friends in Tucson. We will enjoy their company, some good food, and some time playing outdoors. Jonathan & I are still a bit unsure of our plans after Tucson – maybe we will meet up with Ben for a soak (his hot spring pass time), climb in some local crags, head back to California for some time in Joshua Tree, or let the wind blow us  somewhere new like New Mexico.

To all our family and friends we send our love – enjoy your feasts, the long weekend, and the half marathon (good luck Heather!) – Happy Thanksgiving!

Two plus weeks after the trip and I am still thinking about JTree. Part of it is that photos from other participants are still surfacing. The other part is that I’m a bit dumbfounded. Why? That’s hard to answer. It’s not the first climbing road-trip I’ve been on nor the last. Something about it was different in a way that is difficult to express. It’s helpful that others have tried, but their impressions seem to mirror my own.

I was never certain I would even make it. I hemmed and hawed right up to the week before. I did this for the better part of two months prior. There were various reasons, but in the end I needed to go. It was made more attractive because I had met some of the others on a smaller trip to the valley. That and many of the people who I had acquainted myself with via Twitter were going. There were 20+ participants from as far away as Montreal and Philly. Crazy. If they could travel thousands of miles, what reason could I have for not going 500?

It all started rather modestly from an email between a few, but took on a life of its own. I attribute it to the “Twitter Effect”. An idea is put out in there, 5 commit to it, 20 like it, 100 follow it, and in the end 20 participate. Then we name it JTreetweetup #1. I’m not going to go into the whole twitter thing, and how I only did it out of curiosity, or how I’ve met a bunch of other climbers. I will say, I haven’t been doing it very long and I am honestly developing some real friendships.

Ya, friendships, real life connections, I think that is the essence of this trip for me. Well, there is one other thing but I’ll get to that last. The first thing is friends. If it weren’t for friends I wouldn’t have been able to go. Thank you Katiebeth (@katiebeth)! Here’s a girl went who came to Yosemite to climb her first multi-pitch trad route without ever having met me face to face. Talk about a trusting soul. Besides that, she is wonderfully kind-hearted and warm. Check out her blogs ( Beautiful Moments & Not Fearless), she’s not a bad writer either. It took about one email to arrange a ride with her from Fresno to JTree. Relative to my inner cynic that might be a unique experience. However, I was astonished because everyone I met in JTree exhibited the same grace and goodwill. That could be the beginning and the end of the story, but I found a lot more.

Campfires and friends, photo Darren Lui

I’m a bit of a cynic by nature. I’ve pretty much conceded that humanity is doomed to self-destruction due to selfishness and greed. The friends I’ve made prior to JTree, and those I met in JTree, are proving my cynicism unfounded. I left JTree feeling like I had just met my extended family. Everyone was really warm, friendly, helpful and generous. I wasn’t in camp ten minutes, and Darren who I had never met, was helping me setup my tent in the dark. Tiffany, in her blog said, “The fascinating thing is that when we all showed up to camp, there was no weird ice breaking needed. No weird warm up conversation to ease into environment. It was as if we’d all climbed before together.” I completely agree with the sentiment. In fact, it felt as natural as any trip I have taken with partners I have known for years.

On Friday night we were doing this thing where everyone was answering the same question, a round-robin of sorts. The question that came around was, “What do you want for Christmas?” The night before I had slept very little and was feeling pretty trashed after climbing all day. I really had no answer to the question and tried to joke my way out of it. I don’t think I came across as funny (grumpy me). I did think about it later, and the answer I would have given was, “I don’t want anything.”

That would have been the truth. I really didn’t want anything. Being there in JTree climbing, surrounded by friends, eating, talking, enjoying the eye searing smoke from our campfire, was already as much as I could ask for. And if I had a wish I’d do it all over again. I like to remind myself that life is a gift. There in that moment it was never more apparent. How could I be so greedy as to wish for more? I couldn’t, I was content. For various reasons I’ve lost some connection with my old climbing partners. Grad school also took its toll on other aspects of my social life. The desire to reconnect to friends and fellow climbers only magnified the richness of my experience in that moment. These new acquaintances and friends made it easy to feel connected, welcome, and part of the family. All you’d need is one good “tacklehug” and you’d know what I’m talking about

I came home from the trip feeling very different from when I left. I know this may sound a bit melodramatic, but it restored my sense of closeness to people. My cynicism lost its edge. It’s hard to articulate, which is why I’m having trouble with this post. I found new friends, reinforced friendships, and left feeling like I was part of something warm and fuzzy.

In everyone’s life, at some time, our inner fire goes out. It is then burst into flame by an encounter with another human being. We should all be thankful for those people who rekindle the inner spirit. ~Albert Schweitzer

That quote couldn’t be more accurate  and Its not the first time I’ve eluded to such a sentiment since meeting the twitter crew. After walking away from this writing for a day I realized something. The expectation for this trip was a typical climbing road-trip. Go climbing, hangout with friends, come home. I left with a typical expectation of what was to come. The trouble I’m having is the unexpected nature of it. It wasn’t just another road-trip of climbing, camping, and carousing. It was finding a whole bunch of real people who are about as cool and easy to be with as people (climbers) can be. I’m still not sure how to describe it, and maybe I don’t need to. The impression I’m left with is one I want to keep. Writing it down may only be a hollow attempt to label something ineffable. Screw that, I like the indescribable nature of it. Like a first love or a Sierra sunrise, there are no words to do it justice. I’m gonna leave it that way. To everyone that went, it is an honor to know you. I sincerely hope we see each other again soon.

photo Eileen Descallar Ringwald

Part II

I really wanted to do some climbing when I went to JTree. Well, that was the point of the trip. I made a tick list of about 20 routes to hit. I really didn’t think I’d get all 20 but figured 8-10 wasn’t unreal. My one regret about the trip is not climbing more. I climbed about 4 routes and  did some bouldering, not bad. However, what was missed in quantity was made up for in another way.

I’ve been struggling to find my “leader head” since being injured some years ago (About). The grades in JTree are definitely old school grades. A 5.9 route has the potential to pose a problem and anything 5.10 is a guaranteed to be a challenge. I was probably being a bit optimistic with two-thirds of my tick-list 10a or harder. While I didn’t get to most of it, two routes on my list got ticked, “Poodles are People Too” and  “Heart and Sole.” Leading these two routes is noteworthy because they represent the negotiation of major mental hurdle.

Located on Hemingway Buttress “Poodles” is rated 10b. I’ve climbed harder stuff, but not in a while and not in JTree. I had warmed up on Feltoneon Physics (5.8) which went smoothly. The day moved slowly and I was run down from travel and lack of sleep. I got pretty chilled at the top of Feltoneon too. By the time I was ready to lead Poodles, I was almost bonked and came real close to not doing it. I remember being at the base lying on the rock with Luke in asking, “Well, you gonna do it?” I was hardly listening, being too involved in a conversation with myself.

Nina and me after completing Feltoneon Physics, photo Darren Lui

“I didn’t come all the way to JTree to lay here like a lizard,” I remember thinking. There was also the mental hurdle thing. At some point I got off my ass and announced my intent to lead, and I’m glad I did. Thin crack/face climbing on small gear felt sooo good. I hung once near the start crux, but on-sighted the rest. My celebration was absent at the top. I think it was the lack of sleep. Eileen followed me up the route. I should mention that Luke provided the necessary belay and encouragement. Having someone as psyched on climbing as Luke is an asset to any leader. That lead set the tone for the following day when I would lead Heart and Sole.

When I start talking about mental hurdles there are some things to understand. After I fell 25ft and got pretty busted up I couldn’t climb a ladder comfortably. I’d get so rushed with adrenaline at times that I’d almost pass out, and in fact did once. My heightened sense of mortality, fear of going zonk, and trouble with heights have all conspired to hamper my climbing. My ability to lead has not returned easily. This is where Heart and Sole comes in.

I was infused with some new confidence from doing Poodles. I also felt about 100 times better after some sleep. When we headed to Echo Rock on Saturday I was ready to climb. Looking over my tick list I chose H&S 10a. Thinking this would be a nice warmup, I headed over to it with Nina, my new climbing partner Remember expectations? Let me just say that what I found wasn’t what I expected. The guide says “a little funky to the first bolt.” From my perspective it was more than funky, it was run-out with groundfall potential.

The first move onto a flake was easy, but the small pro behind the flake wasn’t exactly inspiring. Even if it held I would need to fall to my left to avoid the block/slab directly below. Standing there, looking up to the first good bolt, uncertainty gripped me. It looked like a mile, and it intimidated me. This is where the leader head thing gets ugly. I could forget it and go somewhere else, or I could face it. I know I can climb 10a. If that was the grade, even in Josh, what was the big deal? No big deal, except all the crap I just mentioned, and that grounder.

I didn’t hesitate too long, but I did warn Nina of all the potential outcomes. She said something like, “You could fall from there?” “Yes … I… could…” So I started up got my pro behind the flake and moved onto the face. Staring up at my first bolt like a hawk on prey, I moved up. About one good move below the bolt I began to get seriously sketched (mentally). I actually down-climbed the face moves back to the flake. That was fun [snark].

Standing on the flake Nina reminded me to breath. Oh ya. It was this moment where my fear and doubt collided with my burning desire to regain my former climbing self. In my head [I can climb this mother#&$(!r] desire won out. Back up I went, climbed to my high point, and committed to the last move. I was pretty relieved when I clipped the bolt. From there on the climbing was more fun but the grade didn’t let up. Nothing was as mentally challenging as getting to the first clip. Even the crux move after the first bolt felt easier. I had no audience other than Nina who belayed. That was actually helpful because I was able to “deal” without the distractions of the “atta boys.” Not that I wouldn’t appreciate it, but right then I needed to face the demons on my own. I know Nina saw what was going on, but she just faithfully held the rope and reminded me to breath. Thanx Nina, I couldn’t have asked for a better partner at that moment.

One other thing. After I lead this Nina got on toprope. She was pretty intimidated by it and didn’t get far. I left the rope up for others to use and went on to the next area with Eileen. When I returned there was a grin from ear-to-ear on Nina’s face as she promptly informed me that she had climbed it clean. I was pretty thrilled for her, and still am. Way to go Nina! She’s got the spirit for sure.

At the anchor of Heart and Sole, photo Darren Lui

Despite the rating, it felt like a much harder lead than doing Poodles the day before. When I made the anchor I let out “whoo hoo” that made up for the prior day. I really feel like a barrier went down that day, a lot of my confidence was restored, and fears diluted. I’m still on a bit of a high from that lead. Looking back, I don’t think the climb was that hard. It was just  my leader-head that made it hard. Climbing has always been about finding new personal limits. In this case its about the restoration some. I couldn’t be happier, even if I only did a handful of routes.

Somewhat serendipitously, I later tried to climb a 10c with Eileen, Primal Scream. I had identified a 5.8  I wanted to climb, but got it wrong and ended up bailing the 10c. That’s actually a good thing. It reminded me that we can do stuff harder than we might otherwise choose to do, and even if we fail, it won’t be a disaster. Another confidence builder. All in all, I came home feeling more connected to people and more confident about climbing. Whew, talk about a road-trip.

Other Blogs about the JTree tweetup

Tales of an Adventuregrrl

Everyfrog’s Blog

The Rockgrrl.com Blog

Not Fearless

Been surfing the net over the past few months, as work is pretty slow, and found this amazing place.

Movement Climbing & Fitness Gym – http://movementboulder.com/home/ - It basically combines gym fitness with indoor climbing !

AMAZING ! why don`t people do that here in the UK?

What would you do if you won the lottery? I know what would spend it on !

Urban Climber & Movement have made history! On this month’s cover of Urban Climber, for their “Future Gyms” feature, a local climber is shown climbing at Movement. This is the first cover shot in history of an indoor gym on any climbing magazine!

i like chamonix and i like boulders. this video ticks them boxes. it’s beautifully filmed

more at www.jefilm.com

My new favorite is getting up early enough to listen to some good music, write in my journal and drink coffee.

I think this is a normal favorite routine for many… but I’m behind.

Many thoughts.  Always.

Excited for Thanksgiving.

Will be in Southern Utah.  Climbing.  Holler!

Heard this song this morning and remembered how much I love.

Heard an interview with Wes Anderson [heart skips] about his new film.

http://www.fantasticmrfoxmovie.com/

Fantastic.

Vrrrry excited.

Can’t stop talking to people about this disturbing youtube I saw last night.

Not okay.

I hate to leave you with that.  Maybe I should’ve put them in a different order.  Go watch the Billy Bragg video again.

That’s all I got.

Love to all.

Be thankful.

Me han traido de Alemania algo nuevo. En primer lugar la mochila MacPac. Especial. Por fin que tengo una mochila de gran capacidad. Y de seguido unas botas de montaña de HanWag. Son del estilo Bestard españolas. No puedo decir que mejores ni que peores pues en ambos casos se trata de botas de muy buena calidad y con unos acabados de excepción.

Ahora bien, os enseño… la mochila es la Glissade Classic de 70l. Y las botas las Alaska GTX.

Esto es para ir calentando motores para la escapada que queremos hacer ahora en Navidad a Bavaria… emocionante, ¿eh?

]]> http://monikafpilates.wordpress.com/2009/11/24/pilates-men-and-climbing/ Tue, 24 Nov 2009 08:03:11 +0000 monikafpilates http://monikafpilates.wordpress.com/2009/11/24/pilates-men-and-climbing/

Pilates is for real men, by hard core climber Eric Horst: http://www.mountainzone.com/blogs/performance_training/2007/03/pilates-cross-training-for-climbers.html

SEJARAH PERKEMBANGAN PANJAT TEBING DI TANAH AIR

Perkembangan panjat tebing di Indonesia mulai pada sekitar tahun 1960, dimana tebing 48 di Citatah Bandung mulai di pakai sebagai ajang latihan oleh pasukan Angkatan Darat kita.
Patok pertama kali, panjat tebing modern di Indonesia adalah tahun 1976,dimana Harry Suliztiarto mulai berlatih memanjat di Citatah,dan diteruskan bersama tiga orang rekannya, Heri Hermanu, Dedy Hikmat dan Agus R,yang pada tahun,1977 mendirikan SKYGERS Amateur Rock Climbing Group. ‘

Disengaja atau tidak, pada tahun 1979, Harry Suliztiarto mamanjat atap planetarium Taman Ismail Marzuki, Jakarta, yang merupakan upaya mempublikasikan olahraga panjat tebing di Indonesia. Skygers mengadakan Sekolah Panjat Tebing yang pertama (1981). Tebing Parang, Purwakarta Jawa Barat untuk pertama kalinya di panjat oleh team ITB, juga pada tahun 1980. dan masih pada tahun 1980. Wanadri, menjadi team Indonesia pertama yang berekpedisi ke Cartenzs Pyramide, mereka gagal sampai puncak, namun berhasil di puncak Jaya dan Cartenzs Timur.

Korban tewas pertama panjat tebing Indonesia adalah Ahmad, salah satu pemanjat asal Bandung, saat memanjat tebing 48 di Citatah, pada tahun 1982. Pada tahun 1984, Skygers dan Gabungan Anak Petualang memanjat tebing Lingga di Trenggalek, Jawa Timur serta tebing Ulu Watu di Bali.

Sedangkan pada tahun 1985, tebing Sorelo di Lahat, Sumatra Selatan, dipanjat oleh team ekspedisi Anak Nakal, dan pada tahun 1986, kelompok gabungan exclusive berhasil memanjat tebing Bambapuang di Sulawesi Selatan, Lalu kelompok Unit Kenal Lingkungan Universitas Padjajaran memanjat gunung Lanang di Jawa Timur, Team Jayagiri merampungkan dinding Ponot di Bendungan Si Gura-gura, Sumatra Utara. Ekspedisi Jayagiri mengulang pemanjatan Eiger, berhasil dengan menciptakan lintasan baru. Dan sebagai catatan bahwa kompetisi panjat tebing pertama di dunia di selenggarakan di Uni Soviet, di tebing alam dan sempat di tayangkan oleh TVRI.

Yang tercatat pada tahun 1987 ialah ekspedisi Wanadri, yang menyelesaikan pemanjatan di Tebing Unta di kalimantan Barat, lalu kelompok Trupala memanjat Tebing Gajah di Jawa Tengah dan Skygers memanjat Tebing-Sepikul Jawa Timur dan pada tahun itu juga di Tebing Pantai Jimbaran, Bali diadakan lomba panjat tebing pertama kali di Indonesia.

Di Tahun 1988, kantor Menpora berkerjasama dengan Kedubes Prancis mengundang empat pemanjat mereka untuk memeperkenalkan dinding panjat serta sempat memberikan kursus pemanjatan. Pada akhir acara, terbentuk Federasi Panjat Gunung dan Tebing Indonesia (FPTGI) yang diketuai oleh Harry Suliztiarto. Tahun 1988, Aranyacala Trisakti mengadakan ekspedisi panjat tebing yang kesemuanya putri, mereka memanjat tower III Tebing Parang, Jawa Barat. Dan kelompok putranya memanjat tebing gunung kembar di Citeureup, Bogar. Sandy Febryanto (Alm) dan Djati Pranoto melakukan panjat kebut yang baru pertama kali dilakukan di Indonesia, dalam waktu empat jam di Tower I Parang, sekaligus merupakan pemanjat tebing besar pertama yang tanpa menggunakan alat pengaman sama sekali. Dan lomba panjat tebing buatan pertama dilakukan di Bandung, mengambil tempat di suatu gardu listrik.

Di tahun ini juga Ekspedisi Jayagiri Speed Climbing mengalami kagagalan untuk memenuhi target dua hari pemanjatan di dinding utara Eiger, Alpen Prancis, yang menjadi lima hari pemanjatan, sedangkan ekspedisi dari Pataga Jakarta berhasil menciptakan lintasan baru di dinding yang sama.

Keberangkatan Sandy Febriyanto dan Djati Pranoto ke Yosemite, AS, memanjat Half Dome guna memecahkan rekor Speed Climbing, pada tahun 1988, dan mengalami kegagalan pula di El Capitan.

Pada awal tahun 1989, dunia panjat tebing Indonesia merunduk dilanda rnusibah dengan gugurnya salah satu pemanjat terbaik: Sandy Febriyanto, terjatuh di tebing Pawon, Citatah. Tapi tak lama, semangat almarhum seolah justru menyebar ke segala penjuru, memacu pencetakan prestasi panjat tebing di bumi pertiwi ini, seperti: Ekspedisi putri lipstick Aranyacala memanjat Bambangpuang, lalu dari Arek arek Young Pioner Malang memanjat tebing Gajah Mungkur di seputaran kawah kelud, kelompok Mega dari Univ. Taruma Negara mengadakan ekspedisi marathon Panjat Tebing, merambah tebing-tebing Citatah, Parang, Gajah Mungkur dan berakhir di Uluwatu.dalam waktu hampir sebulan, ini merupakan marathon panjat tebing pertama di Indonesia. Di tahun ini tak kurang 10 kejuaraan panjat tebing di selenggarakan, beberapa yang besar diantaranya: Unpar Bandung, Tri Sakti Jakarta, ISTN Jakarta, Markas Kopassus Grup I di Serang, dua kali oleh Trupala Jakarta (balai siding Ancol). Kelompok Kapa Ul dan Geologi ITB. Di akhir tahun 1989, ditutup dengan gebrakan Budi Cahyono yang melakukan pemanjatan solo di Tebing Tower III Parang, ini merupakan artificial solo Climbing pertama pada tebing besar di Indonesia.

Lomba Panjat Dinding Nasional (LPDN) di gelar di Jakarta, dengan ketinggian 15 meter dan dibangun empat sisi, yang diselenggarakan pada tahun 1990 dan Pataga Jakarta, mendaki puncak Carstenz Pyramid dan Puncak Jaya.
Untuk pertama kalinya Indonesia mengirimkan atlit panjat tebing di kejuaraan Oceania- Australia pada tahun 1991, empat atlit yang dikirim hanya Andreas dan Deden Sutisna yang mendapat peringkat ke empat dan lima, dan dengan keikutsertaannya ini, membuka mata dunia panjat tebing Internasional, bahwa Indonesia sudah memepunyai atlit panjat tebing berskala Internasional. FPTI mengeluarkan peraturan panjat dinding pertama dan Pengda FPTI Jatim bekerjasama dengan Impala Univ. Merdeka Malang yang mengadakan Climbing Party di Lembah Kera, diikuti oleh puluhan pemanjat, membuat jalur-jalur di Lembah Kera dan diskusi panjat tebing.

Gabungan tim panjat tebing Putri yang terdiri dari atlet Aranyacala Trisakati, Mahitala Unpar dan IKIP Bandung Mengadakan pemanjatan di Half Dome, AS. Ekspedisi pemanjatan putri tahun 1991 di Cima Ovest Italy. Di tahun ini pula tercatat beberapa kecelakaan di dinding panjat: Zainudin tewas di Samarinda karena tidak memasang pengaman, tiga pemanjat lagi jatuh dan cedera (lumpuh dan patah tulang), semua kejadian tersebut disebabkan oleh tidak diikutinya procedur keselamatan pemanjat.
Satu prestasi lagi dilakukan oleh Maully MW Wibowo, melakukan pemanjatan solo (free solo) pertama di Bambapuang.

Rapat Paripurna Nasional FPTI yang pertama di selenggarakan di Puncak Jabar, tahun 1991.
Kejurnas panjat tebing I, tahun 1992 di selenggarakan di Padang, tampil sebagai juara adalah kontingen dari Jakarta. Ronald Marimbing dan Panji Santoso mengikuti Asian Championship di Seoul, sementara Mamay S, Salim dan Maully MW Wibowo mengikuti kursus Juri dan Pembuat Jalur di sambung dengan Rapat CICE Asia.

Budi Cahyono, yang dikontrak oleh perusahaan Rokok, berangkat ke Taiwan untuk melakukan Pemanjatan Iklan. FPTI diterima secara resmi menjadi anggota UIAA, disusul dengan pengiriman ke Rapay CICE Asia di Hongkong.
Rapat Paripurna ke II terselenggara di Bengkulu, tahun 1992. Kejumas Panjat Tebing II diadakan di Bengkulu, Juara Umum diboyang oleh Sumatra Barat pada tahun1993. Dalam tahun yang sama, Budi Cahyono, Ronald M, dan Yusa Kanarohan mengikuti kejuaraan Asia di Chancuan RRC, dimana Ronald menduduki peringkat dua dan Yusa peringkat ke enam. Kemudian Yusa dan Budi Cahyono berhasil merebut Juara satu dan dua pada kompetisi Singapore National 2nd Rock Wall Climbing Championship. S.H. Nasution dan Kamran Ariim memanjat di kawasan Pha-Nga dan Phuket Thailand kemudian diteruskan oleh Malaysia .dan Vietnam.

Tim FPTI gagal berangkat ke Fixroy dan Aconcagua. Pada tahun 1994, secora resmi FPTI menjadi Anggota KONI yang ke 50. Ronald M dan Nunun Masruruh menduduki peringkat ke sembilan dan ke dua belas di kejuaraan Asia ke III di Jepang, sementara Hendricus Mutter rapat CICE di Jepang. Mamay S’Salim dan Kresna Huiarna melakukan pembuatan jalur di tebing-tebing Taiwan.

Rapat Paripuma Nasional FPTI III, terselenggara di Kaliurang, Yogyakarta. 1995 diadakan Kejumas Panjat Tebing ke III di Alun-alun Utara Yogyakarta, dan Juara Umum diboyong oleh DKI Jakarta dengan menggeser kontingen Jawa Barat dan Sumatra Barat, pada Kejumas III ini mulai dilombakan kelas panjat Speed yang pertama kali diadakan di Indonesia. Masih pada bulan yang sama, tahun 1995, di Yogyakarta diadakan pula kursus Juri dan Pembuat Jalur, diikuti oleh Pengurus Pengda FPTI series dari ABRI dan Pramuka.

Okky Jarium Memulai bisnis sasana latih dinding panjat dibawah bendera PI. Samudera Satelindo yang bertempat di Pondok Indah Mall Jakarta Selatan. Asmujiono dan disusul Missirin (Kopassus) yang tergabung dalam expedisi gabungan sipil dan militer ke Puncak Everest ada tahun 1997, berhasil mencapai puncak dan berhasil menjadi orang Asia Tenggara pertama yang mencapai puncak Everest.

Panjat tebing resmi menjadi cabang olahraga yang dipertandingkan di Pekan Olahraga Nasional ke XV tahun 2000 di Surabaya sebagai cabang olahraga mandiri, ditahun yang sama Sekolah Vertical Rescue angkatan pertama diselengggarakan oleh Perguruan Panjat Tebing SKYGERS Indonesia, jenazah Roni Aral berhasil di evakuasi oleh tim vertical rescue SKYGERS dari kedalaman 600m di gunung Cikuray Jawa barat. Tahun 2001 tim vertical rescue SKYGERS terlibat dalam evakuasi 2 jenazah di Gn. Salak, Jawa Barat. Pemanjatan tebing Mandu EXPEDITION METRO TV dan SKYGERS 2004.

Rekor baru pembuatan jalur panjat tebing alam terbanyak tercipta sebanyak 400 buah jalur pemanjatan oleh Tedi Ixdiana pada tahun 2003. Tebing Siung di Kawasan Yogjakarta digempur oleh tim SKYGERS , berakhir dengan terciptanya 45 jalur. Tedi Ixdiana dan tim MATRA membuat jalur Free climbing pertama di Gn. Krakatau, selat Sunda. Pemanjatan Tebing pantai Jawa dan Bali SKYGERS dan Tim EXPEDITION METRO TV 2004.
Indonesia menggirimkan Tedi Ixdiana Dan Murjayanti untuk mengikuti kejuaraan panjat tebing alam ” International invitation tournament ” di Huguan Taihang Mountain Gorges, Chiangzhi-China pada tahun 2005. Pemanjatan tujuh air terjun di Indonesia diprakarsai oleh tim EXPEDITION-MERTO TV dan SKYGERS 2005.
Dan Masih banyak lagi kejadian/peristiwa yang secara tidak langsung mempengaruhi perkembangan dunia panjat tebing di tanah air yang tak sempat dicatat disini dikarenakan keterbatasan sumber berita dan informasi dunia panjat tebing di tanah air, dan sementara perkembangan dunia panjat tebing tentunya akan berhenti sampai disini.

Selamat ber-panjat tebing!!
Sumber berita disadur dari Booklet LPDN tahun 1990, ditambahkan oleh yayasari PARIGI – Yogyakarta Pada Tahun 2000 dan catatan perjalanan SKYGERS Indonesia

DIAMBIL DARI PRESENTASI TEAM SKYGERS KETIKA MENJADI MENTOR DIKLAT VERTICAL RESCUE SAR WONOGIRI..2006 DAN EKSPEDISI TEBING G. GANDUL WNG
DEDICATED FOR TEDY IXDIANA,OM BEI ABDURRACHMAN,YONI AND TEAM

SEJARAH PERKEMBANGAN PANJAT TEBING DI TANAH AIR

Perkembangan panjat tebing di Indonesia mulai pada sekitar tahun 1960, dimana tebing 48 di Citatah Bandung mulai di pakai sebagai ajang latihan oleh pasukan Angkatan Darat kita.
Patok pertama kali, panjat tebing modern di Indonesia adalah tahun 1976,dimana Harry Suliztiarto mulai berlatih memanjat di Citatah,dan diteruskan bersama tiga orang rekannya, Heri Hermanu, Dedy Hikmat dan Agus R,yang pada tahun,1977 mendirikan SKYGERS Amateur Rock Climbing Group. ‘

Disengaja atau tidak, pada tahun 1979, Harry Suliztiarto mamanjat atap planetarium Taman Ismail Marzuki, Jakarta, yang merupakan upaya mempublikasikan olahraga panjat tebing di Indonesia. Skygers mengadakan Sekolah Panjat Tebing yang pertama (1981). Tebing Parang, Purwakarta Jawa Barat untuk pertama kalinya di panjat oleh team ITB, juga pada tahun 1980. dan masih pada tahun 1980. Wanadri, menjadi team Indonesia pertama yang berekpedisi ke Cartenzs Pyramide, mereka gagal sampai puncak, namun berhasil di puncak Jaya dan Cartenzs Timur.

Korban tewas pertama panjat tebing Indonesia adalah Ahmad, salah satu pemanjat asal Bandung, saat memanjat tebing 48 di Citatah, pada tahun 1982. Pada tahun 1984, Skygers dan Gabungan Anak Petualang memanjat tebing Lingga di Trenggalek, Jawa Timur serta tebing Ulu Watu di Bali.

Sedangkan pada tahun 1985, tebing Sorelo di Lahat, Sumatra Selatan, dipanjat oleh team ekspedisi Anak Nakal, dan pada tahun 1986, kelompok gabungan exclusive berhasil memanjat tebing Bambapuang di Sulawesi Selatan, Lalu kelompok Unit Kenal Lingkungan Universitas Padjajaran memanjat gunung Lanang di Jawa Timur, Team Jayagiri merampungkan dinding Ponot di Bendungan Si Gura-gura, Sumatra Utara. Ekspedisi Jayagiri mengulang pemanjatan Eiger, berhasil dengan menciptakan lintasan baru. Dan sebagai catatan bahwa kompetisi panjat tebing pertama di dunia di selenggarakan di Uni Soviet, di tebing alam dan sempat di tayangkan oleh TVRI.

Yang tercatat pada tahun 1987 ialah ekspedisi Wanadri, yang menyelesaikan pemanjatan di Tebing Unta di kalimantan Barat, lalu kelompok Trupala memanjat Tebing Gajah di Jawa Tengah dan Skygers memanjat Tebing-Sepikul Jawa Timur dan pada tahun itu juga di Tebing Pantai Jimbaran, Bali diadakan lomba panjat tebing pertama kali di Indonesia.

Di Tahun 1988, kantor Menpora berkerjasama dengan Kedubes Prancis mengundang empat pemanjat mereka untuk memeperkenalkan dinding panjat serta sempat memberikan kursus pemanjatan. Pada akhir acara, terbentuk Federasi Panjat Gunung dan Tebing Indonesia (FPTGI) yang diketuai oleh Harry Suliztiarto. Tahun 1988, Aranyacala Trisakti mengadakan ekspedisi panjat tebing yang kesemuanya putri, mereka memanjat tower III Tebing Parang, Jawa Barat. Dan kelompok putranya memanjat tebing gunung kembar di Citeureup, Bogar. Sandy Febryanto (Alm) dan Djati Pranoto melakukan panjat kebut yang baru pertama kali dilakukan di Indonesia, dalam waktu empat jam di Tower I Parang, sekaligus merupakan pemanjat tebing besar pertama yang tanpa menggunakan alat pengaman sama sekali. Dan lomba panjat tebing buatan pertama dilakukan di Bandung, mengambil tempat di suatu gardu listrik.

Di tahun ini juga Ekspedisi Jayagiri Speed Climbing mengalami kagagalan untuk memenuhi target dua hari pemanjatan di dinding utara Eiger, Alpen Prancis, yang menjadi lima hari pemanjatan, sedangkan ekspedisi dari Pataga Jakarta berhasil menciptakan lintasan baru di dinding yang sama.
Keberangkatan Sandy Febriyanto dan Djati Pranoto ke Yosemite, AS, memanjat Half Dome guna memecahkan rekor Speed Climbing, pada tahun 1988, dan mengalami kegagalan pula di El Capitan.

Pada awal tahun 1989, dunia panjat tebing Indonesia merunduk dilanda rnusibah dengan gugurnya salah satu pemanjat terbaik: Sandy Febriyanto, terjatuh di tebing Pawon, Citatah. Tapi tak lama, semangat almarhum seolah justru menyebar ke segala penjuru, memacu pencetakan prestasi panjat tebing di bumi pertiwi ini, seperti: Ekspedisi putri lipstick Aranyacala memanjat Bambangpuang, lalu dari Arek arek Young Pioner Malang memanjat tebing Gajah Mungkur di seputaran kawah kelud, kelompok Mega dari Univ. Taruma Negara mengadakan ekspedisi marathon Panjat Tebing, merambah tebing-tebing Citatah, Parang, Gajah Mungkur dan berakhir di Uluwatu.dalam waktu hampir sebulan, ini merupakan marathon panjat tebing pertama di Indonesia. Di tahun ini tak kurang 10 kejuaraan panjat tebing di selenggarakan, beberapa yang besar diantaranya: Unpar Bandung, Tri Sakti Jakarta, ISTN Jakarta, Markas Kopassus Grup I di Serang, dua kali oleh Trupala Jakarta (balai siding Ancol). Kelompok Kapa Ul dan Geologi ITB. Di akhir tahun 1989, ditutup dengan gebrakan Budi Cahyono yang melakukan pemanjatan solo di Tebing Tower III Parang, ini merupakan artificial solo Climbing pertama pada tebing besar di Indonesia.

Lomba Panjat Dinding Nasional (LPDN) di gelar di Jakarta, dengan ketinggian 15 meter dan dibangun empat sisi, yang diselenggarakan pada tahun 1990 dan Pataga Jakarta, mendaki puncak Carstenz Pyramid dan Puncak Jaya.
Untuk pertama kalinya Indonesia mengirimkan atlit panjat tebing di kejuaraan Oceania- Australia pada tahun 1991, empat atlit yang dikirim hanya Andreas dan Deden Sutisna yang mendapat peringkat ke empat dan lima, dan dengan keikutsertaannya ini, membuka mata dunia panjat tebing Internasional, bahwa Indonesia sudah memepunyai atlit panjat tebing berskala Internasional. FPTI mengeluarkan peraturan panjat dinding pertama dan Pengda FPTI Jatim bekerjasama dengan Impala Univ. Merdeka Malang yang mengadakan Climbing Party di Lembah Kera, diikuti oleh puluhan pemanjat, membuat jalur-jalur di Lembah Kera dan diskusi panjat tebing.

Gabungan tim panjat tebing Putri yang terdiri dari atlet Aranyacala Trisakati, Mahitala Unpar dan IKIP Bandung Mengadakan pemanjatan di Half Dome, AS. Ekspedisi pemanjatan putri tahun 1991 di Cima Ovest Italy. Di tahun ini pula tercatat beberapa kecelakaan di dinding panjat: Zainudin tewas di Samarinda karena tidak memasang pengaman, tiga pemanjat lagi jatuh dan cedera (lumpuh dan patah tulang), semua kejadian tersebut disebabkan oleh tidak diikutinya procedur keselamatan pemanjat.
Satu prestasi lagi dilakukan oleh Maully MW Wibowo, melakukan pemanjatan solo (free solo) pertama di Bambapuang.

Rapat Paripurna Nasional FPTI yang pertama di selenggarakan di Puncak Jabar, tahun 1991.
Kejurnas panjat tebing I, tahun 1992 di selenggarakan di Padang, tampil sebagai juara adalah kontingen dari Jakarta. Ronald Marimbing dan Panji Santoso mengikuti Asian Championship di Seoul, sementara Mamay S, Salim dan Maully MW Wibowo mengikuti kursus Juri dan Pembuat Jalur di sambung dengan Rapat CICE Asia.
Budi Cahyono, yang dikontrak oleh perusahaan Rokok, berangkat ke Taiwan untuk melakukan Pemanjatan Iklan. FPTI diterima secara resmi menjadi anggota UIAA, disusul dengan pengiriman ke Rapay CICE Asia di Hongkong.
Rapat Paripurna ke II terselenggara di Bengkulu, tahun 1992. Kejumas Panjat Tebing II diadakan di Bengkulu, Juara Umum diboyang oleh Sumatra Barat pada tahun1993. Dalam tahun yang sama, Budi Cahyono, Ronald M, dan Yusa Kanarohan mengikuti kejuaraan Asia di Chancuan RRC, dimana Ronald menduduki peringkat dua dan Yusa peringkat ke enam. Kemudian Yusa dan Budi Cahyono berhasil merebut Juara satu dan dua pada kompetisi Singapore National 2nd Rock Wall Climbing Championship. S.H. Nasution dan Kamran Ariim memanjat di kawasan Pha-Nga dan Phuket Thailand kemudian diteruskan oleh Malaysia .dan Vietnam.
Tim FPTI gagal berangkat ke Fixroy dan Aconcagua. Pada tahun 1994, secora resmi FPTI menjadi Anggota KONI yang ke 50. Ronald M dan Nunun Masruruh menduduki peringkat ke sembilan dan ke dua belas di kejuaraan Asia ke III di Jepang, sementara Hendricus Mutter rapat CICE di Jepang. Mamay S’Salim dan Kresna Huiarna melakukan pembuatan jalur di tebing-tebing Taiwan.

Rapat Paripuma Nasional FPTI III, terselenggara di Kaliurang, Yogyakarta. 1995 diadakan Kejumas Panjat Tebing ke III di Alun-alun Utara Yogyakarta, dan Juara Umum diboyong oleh DKI Jakarta dengan menggeser kontingen Jawa Barat dan Sumatra Barat, pada Kejumas III ini mulai dilombakan kelas panjat Speed yang pertama kali diadakan di Indonesia. Masih pada bulan yang sama, tahun 1995, di Yogyakarta diadakan pula kursus Juri dan Pembuat Jalur, diikuti oleh Pengurus Pengda FPTI series dari ABRI dan Pramuka.
Okky Jarium Memulai bisnis sasana latih dinding panjat dibawah bendera PI. Samudera Satelindo yang bertempat di Pondok Indah Mall Jakarta Selatan. Asmujiono dan disusul Missirin (Kopassus) yang tergabung dalam expedisi gabungan sipil dan militer ke Puncak Everest ada tahun 1997, berhasil mencapai puncak dan berhasil menjadi orang Asia Tenggara pertama yang mencapai puncak Everest.
Panjat tebing resmi menjadi cabang olahraga yang dipertandingkan di Pekan Olahraga Nasional ke XV tahun 2000 di Surabaya sebagai cabang olahraga mandiri, ditahun yang sama Sekolah Vertical Rescue angkatan pertama diselengggarakan oleh Perguruan Panjat Tebing SKYGERS Indonesia, jenazah Roni Aral berhasil di evakuasi oleh tim vertical rescue SKYGERS dari kedalaman 600m di gunung Cikuray Jawa barat. Tahun 2001 tim vertical rescue SKYGERS terlibat dalam evakuasi 2 jenazah di Gn. Salak, Jawa Barat. Pemanjatan tebing Mandu EXPEDITION METRO TV dan SKYGERS 2004.

Rekor baru pembuatan jalur panjat tebing alam terbanyak tercipta sebanyak 400 buah jalur pemanjatan oleh Tedi Ixdiana pada tahun 2003. Tebing Siung di Kawasan Yogjakarta digempur oleh tim SKYGERS , berakhir dengan terciptanya 45 jalur. Tedi Ixdiana dan tim MATRA membuat jalur Free climbing pertama di Gn. Krakatau, selat Sunda. Pemanjatan Tebing pantai Jawa dan Bali SKYGERS dan Tim EXPEDITION METRO TV 2004.
Indonesia menggirimkan Tedi Ixdiana Dan Murjayanti untuk mengikuti kejuaraan panjat tebing alam ” International invitation tournament ” di Huguan Taihang Mountain Gorges, Chiangzhi-China pada tahun 2005. Pemanjatan tujuh air terjun di Indonesia diprakarsai oleh tim EXPEDITION-MERTO TV dan SKYGERS 2005.
Dan Masih banyak lagi kejadian/peristiwa yang secara tidak langsung mempengaruhi perkembangan dunia panjat tebing di tanah air yang tak sempat dicatat disini dikarenakan keterbatasan sumber berita dan informasi dunia panjat tebing di tanah air, dan sementara perkembangan dunia panjat tebing tentunya akan berhenti sampai disini.

Selamat ber-panjat tebing!!
Sumber berita disadur dari Booklet LPDN tahun 1990, ditambahkan oleh yayasari PARIGI – Yogyakarta Pada Tahun 2000 dan catatan perjalanan SKYGERS Indonesia

DIAMBIL DARI PRESENTASI TEAM SKYGERS KETIKA MENJADI MENTOR DIKLAT VERTICAL RESCUE SAR WONOGIRI..2006 DAN EKSPEDISI TEBING G. GANDUL WNG
DEDICATED FOR TEDY IXDIANA,OM BEI ABDURRACHMAN,YONI AND TEAM

Over the past two weekends I’ve been out running SPA training course’s in some horrible weather conditions for sunny Cornwall.

The rain and wind has been so bad, I’ve found myself  hiding down in the valleys waiting for the sun to come back & just when I think the sun’s on its way along comes the hail (Whats that all about I want to know).

Any how it’s still good to get out on the hill even if it’s at the bottom.

CHEERIO FOR NOW

Parece que a Guia começa a ser o nosso local de eleição…

No sábado choveu, mas no Domingo veio o bom tempo e como o pessoal já estava sem escalar há umas semanas, ninguêm faltou desta vez

Começámos pela “Fantamar-V”, depois mesmo ao lado uma que penso que se chama “Bloody-V+” e para terminar a “Biceps-6a”, não deu para mais porque apenas fomos da parte da tarde e como somos muitos…

Bora lá começar...

Vasco, o monta vias

João a descansar

Pedro praticamente no topo

Mt. Rainier from My Wonderland Trail trip, July 2006

I was going through the Summit for Someone/Big City Mountaineers web site recently, looking for some stuff for my fund-raising campaign and came across this video that describes the program. It’s pretty cool with interviews from climbers, guides and the youth who benefit from all our fundraising.

As I was watching it, I started seriously thinking, Why am I doing this? Who am I doing this for? Do I know youth who would benefit from this? I’ve been so caught up in the excitement of brainstorming fund-raising ideas and the thought of doing Rainier with an all-women team and Sara that I  never actually sat down to think about the Big Question. And I know, subconsciously, it’s been bugging me.

Then someone in the video mentioned Boy Scouts.

I was not a Boy Scout but I was a Girl Scout. I had to sell the cookies and do the workbooks and wear the Brownie dress and did the “bridging” ceremony to becoming a Junior Girl Scout. I earned my little patches, which my mother sewed on, even though they were a pain to do. I do believe she grimaced when I would approach her with the sash and the latest patch, because, you know, I had to have it done by the next day.

And honestly? I hated all that stuff. I hated the selling of cookies. I hated the Monday afternoon meetings. All I liked were the snacks and the occasional cool crafts. I was motivated by my unknown-at-the-time competitive spirit to earn as many badges as possible but wasn’t THAT motivated. Leadership, respect, blah blah blah.

Then Stacy Cowgill’s parents took over leadership of Troop 1589 in 5th Grade. And they took us camping.

Gear! Sleeping bags! Duffel Bags! Old sweatshirts and jeans! The awesome mess kit with the Army-green plastic cup and the aluminum bowl that all fit so nicely together with a bolt and wingnut. Being outdoors and away from parents. I don’t ever remember getting homesick.

Adventure! We slept in cabins, had camp fires, hiked through Mammoth Cave, learned about stalagmites and stalactites and got so filthy dirty! The BEST trip was on our way out of the woods after a little hike. Mr. Cowgill found what looked like a wall of mud, looked at us girls and said, “Who wants to get out of here by climbing up that hill?”  I was so happy and pleased with myself being covered from head to toe in mud and accomplishing what felt like a pretty physical goal.

I couldn’t get enough of it. And when the Cowgills quit leading our Troop, I quit too. I started running and joined the cross country team. No more crafts and cookies for me. I quickly became connected to the outside.

So, back to the video.

The last few minutes are interviews with the teens who benefit from the program. As I’m watching, I’m finding myself wiping away tears and remembering all my childhood camping memories. I see the tired excitement in their eyes from their trips and just being able to be a freakin’ kid and play in the woods.

And then it hit home – those teens were truly my answer.

So please help me summit Mt. Rainier for these kids and donate to the cause. Every step I take up the 14,411-ft tall Mt. Rainier, I will be thinking about all of you, as well as all those teens who will soon have similar opportunities to learn more about what it’s like to go outside and play! Thank you for your support!

Stairs2, originally uploaded by sizzled.

i fall up stairs way more than i fall down them

By MATT MCCORMICK

Over the last 4-5 weeks I’ve been following a plan to prepare for a week-long trip to the Red River Gorge in Kentucky. For those of you unfamiliar with the Red, the climbing is most often characterized by monstrous endurance and resistance routes.

Jonathan Siegrist on his recent sendfest in the Red

Climbers who perform at a high level in the Red possess an amazing balance of aerobic and anaerobic fitness. Below I share a quick explanation of the difference between aerobic and anaerobic as well as sharing the plan I’ve been following for the past several weeks. We’ll see how it goes!

A quick explanation of aerobic and anaerobic energy production…

Aerobic: This is the body’s most efficient energy production mode and can be sustained indefinitely because the body is able to use oxygen in the energy production process. The body can only sustain aerobic energy production at steady, sub-maximal levels of exertion. Ie. A route that you don’t get pumped on at all and that has no moves that are difficult for you. Another great example is going for a long steady run.

Anaerobic: At a certain level of exertion (this is different for each person and called the anaerobic threshold) each person’s body will no longer be able to supply the necessary energy using the aerobic system. At this point the body begin to supply energy using the anaerobic system which does not utilize oxygen and can only be sustained for 1-3 minutes. Anaerobic energy production is inefficient in producing long-term energy because of the build up of lactic acid that it produces. This lactic acid buildup seriously inhibits muscle function and results in that all too familiar pump. The anaerobic system is good at producing energy for short bursts of high intensity exertion. Ie. A crux on a route or a boulder problem. Climbers can train to increase their body’s ability to function well with a high build-up of lactic acid. This is called anaerobic endurance.

Here’s the catch! In climbing, unless you specialize in one-move-wonders, you need to train both systems.

Climbing, more than most sports, is extremely complex and difficult to categorize. Over the course of a route or long boulder problem, a climber will draw energy from a both aerobic and anaerobic systems. Moving through cruxes at their limit the climber will utilize the anaerobic system for energy and then at rests and through easier sections the climber can recover because his energy is being drawn from the efficiency of the aerobic system.

Check out this video of Sharma on Pachamama in Spain. The routes Sharma is doing, you know are amazing performances of anaerobic endurance.

The Red River Plan

The plan I followed over the last several weeks focused on building anaerobic endurance as well as building finger strength, power, and aerobic endurance. Here it is…

Day 1

Hangboard – (Absolute finger strength): Why this for the Red you might ask? Think of the V13 boulderer who goes to the Red and onsights 5.13+ in the Madness Cave. He may not have the best aerobic endurance but the moves are not hard for him and the holds feel easy to hang onto.

Pick 4 grips on the hangboard. Train your weaknesses!

Perform 3 sets on each of the four grips. You’ll need a stopwatch right in front of you for this. One set = Seven 7 second hangs with 3 seconds of rest between each hang. Rest 1 minute and repeat 3 sets for each grip. Rest  2 minutes between each grip. If you can complete One set without dropping off the board, increase the weight 2-5 lbs. For the sake of your tendon pulleys, use an open grip rather than full closed crimp grip.

Open Grip

Closed (full crimp) grip

Traverse into Boulder Problems x 5:

Create a 30+ move traverse at sub-maximal level (ie. if you boulder V7 create a V4 crux or cruxes in the traverse split up by rests). Have the traverse end at the start of a boulder problem slightly below your max (For the V7 boulderer V5/V5+ would be perfect). The goal is to recover on some good holds before the final boulder problem. Crush the boulder problem and then rest 1 minute before repeating or repeating into another problem. Do this 5 times.

Cool Down: Aerobic Recovery Capillary (ARC)

15-20 minutes of traversing. The goal here is to stay in the Aerobic zone (just slightly below your anaerobic threshold) for the entire 20 minutes. You’ll be able to tell this by staying just below the point where you’re getting really pumped but still at a level where your getting fatigued. Kind of like going for a long run or bike ride. This exercise will increase your local endurance as well as build more capillary density in the forearm muscles. Capillaries move nutrients to and from the muscle and help speed recovery.

Core: Complete 15 minutes of core exercises of your choice.

Day 2:

Campus Board: (Power)

Ladders and Touches

Perform one ladder up and down. Rest 1 minute and then perform one set of touches doing 2-3 touches with each arm without stepping off the board.

Here’s a great site with some video of these 2 exercises:

http://www.nicros.com/archive/archive15.cfm

Repeat this 4 times.

Boulder Pyramid: This is an excellent anaerobic endurance exercise!

Pick 6 boulder problems and arrange them in a pyramid as below.

V3,V3+,V4,V4+,V5,V5+,V4+,V4,V3+,V3

Complete this pyramid 4 times moving between problems as quickly as possible. Rest 2 minutes between completing each pyramid.

Cool Down: Aerobic Recovery Capillary (ARC) (See above)

Core: Complete 15 minutes of core exercises of your choice.

Rest Day: Think about doing some aerobic exercise for 30-60 minutes. This will accelerate recovery and help build general aerobic fitness.

Day 3:

Repeat Day 1…

As we enter our third week at Red Rocks Canyon we still haven’t given in to the Las Vegas glitter and we keep on climbing, stronger than ever. We haven’t entered a single casino or even fooled around with all the conveniently located gambling machines, though I’m surprised Las Vegas isn’t audacious enough to put a slot machine right inside all the toilet stalls in the city. No doubt that would coax even the least interested to gamble, as staring it right in the face without taking a chance would seem a little unfulfilling.

Our gear is part of us. We take care of all of it and treat it like an extension of our bodies. In return it treats us well, or maybe ‘fairly’ would be more accurate. The cams respond to a squeeze of my fingers. They’ve lost some of their color from the many times I’ve placed them inside a crack to protect me from any potential falls. This gear holds me from hitting the ground were I to fall. I trust it and have learned to use it well. I think about the direction of the force that would be exerted on the piece, and then place it accordingly. Each piece should be set with the intention that it could withstand a fall. I gain confidence from each piece that I place, and keep climbing past it. It suits the part of my mind that should have been an engineer. It’s that confidence that allows me to keep climbing harder and harder routes. I can place gear as I see fit. I stitch up a climb if it’s difficult and I conserve pieces and energy in the stretches that don’t warrant protection. The placing protection component of trad climbing might be the most dynamic element that always keeps things interesting.

This climb is called The Fox. It’s a 10d dihedral crack that starts at fingers moves quickly past thin hands to hands and then mandates a lieback through an off width section and then finishes on a slabby, balancy arête. This climb has been the feature presentation of my dreams. Kristine and I have hiked up there twice since the first time I saw the climb, which isn’t a small feat since it’s a solid 45 minutes scrambling up boulders to the climb. I’ve hiked up to the top of the climb and set up a natural anchor from which I top-roped the climb. The second time I had Kristine accompany me to the top and taught her about the anchor I built and then we both rappelled to the base of the climb. Here’s Kristine in perfect style with The Fox to her left.

As much as I’d love to I don’t think I’ll be leading the climb before I leave. It’s part that I need to simply do it, but I also don’t have big enough cams to adequately protect the crack where it opens up. My mind can manage the tension while on top rope, but I don’t think my nerves would stay as calm if I was working myself up the slabby arête knowing my last piece was fifteen or more feet below me. For now I’ll remain content with my top-roping feat of this climb, but continue to dream of the day when I’ll lead it. Here are my boney knees, a bloody pinky, and my limp forearms after my second go at The Fox.

Fixed gear / cafe / hipster culture hits Natimuk:

I always seem to end up at the bottom of a climb with a hangover, blearily looking up a rock face which is going to require more effort to climb than i’m really prepared to exert.

I hear the…

What does Australian art, hot women, commentary on religious values and the outback have in common? The 1994 movie Sirens, that’s what. In hindsight, an interesting attempt on portraying the 60’s Australian art movement, risque and sexuality. However, i think the following isohunt user sums it up perfectly:

Good movie with some good nude scenes but nothing overly sexual. Elle Macpherson’s upward pointing nipple boobs are always outstanding. Tara Fitzgerald shows some nice bush as well.

ps. Fuck you Norman Lindsay!

How to get in a bouldering session at work:

Idea #2.

“The Casual Door Jamb Hang”:

Think how many doors you go through in a single day. Or if you don’t have any idea, count some time. On a pretty average day, I counted 79. That’s a lot of door jambs to just pass on through without getting anything in return.

So here’s my proposal. Take advantage of one in ten. And without arousing too much suspicion, get in a little hang on those eight or so doors per day. This is especially possible during the times when you talk to someone while standing inside the actual door frame. As you stand there, reach up and get an open-handed grip on the top of the frame. Sag your knees until your hands are taking most of your weight. Then find something to talk about that’ll get you all the way to the moment of pump. And before you start shaking or sweating, casually stand back up again and release.

For people who like clear directions:

1. Stop whenever possible underneath a door jamb.

2. Grip the top of the jamb.

3. Sag knees to weight the hands.

4. BS, tell a story, or ask questions until the pump starts.

5. Stand up and let go.

Simple, huh? The key is not getting caught, especially by the boss. But if you like to get away with stuff, see how often you can do the hang without attracting attention.

Drawbacks:

1. Once again, it’s weird to get caught in the act. You’re that guy who’s always hanging from door jambs.

2. Sweating, shaking, or untucking your shirt by hanging (How formal is your workplace?).

Variations:

1. If you’re not tall enough to reach the top of the door, you can do a one-handed side hang (still open-handed on the grip).

2. “The Pinch Casual Fall-Back”

3. “Crimp Locks” (switching hands).

Go forth and increase your workplace endurance.

Phil: I think people place too much emphasis on their careers. I wish we could all live in the mountains at high altitude. That’s where I see myself in five years. How about you?
Rita: Oh, I agree.

Mountain town spreadsheet

So where did I leave off… oh yes, we headed up Scenic 7 to the Ozarks. If you want to do some serious rock climbing, stop at Sam’s Throne – it’s the premier crag in the state. We skipped it and dropped in on Mystic Caverns instead, where I snagged a pretty rad hat in the gift shop.

Speaking of rad hats, Arkansas is chock full of thrift stores(that haven’t been over-mined by hipsters). We stayed in Harrison at this killer 1930s historic hotel called the Seville(it was awesome and cheap). Within blocks of Hotel Seville were 5 fucking thrift stores in downtown Harrison. Jeeeesus.

I also whipped out the iPhone Urban Spoon to find some tasty Thai food in the culinary wasteland that is northern Arkansas. BBQ aside, they are really hurting – PLUS, like most of Arkansas above Little Rock, it’s a dry county. Snap!

Definitely picked up one of these Goblins P.E. shirts at one of those thrift shops.

There are a few cool things to do in Harrison. One is peeping out some elk near Ponca. Here’s Beck on the stake-out.

He spotted us!

We saw 20 or so elk; mostly females with a bull or two in the mix. I even popped off this video of a bull elk “bugling.”

Harrison is also the jump-off spot for the Buffalo River, which is the country’s first National River. In a simple description, it’s awesome. The Buffalo is known for its clear blue water and high stone cliffs, some of which have Indian petroglyphs on them that could be centuries old.

The leaves were just starting to change color, which was nice, but if it had been a couple of weeks earlier I would have enjoyed jumping off some of these cliffs, as is my custom.

Next, we cruised on down to Little Rock on our way out of the state. You may not think of Little Rock as a “rocking” town, but they’ve got some pretty progressive things happening there.

Take the Big Dam Bridge for example:

The bridge is the longest pedestrian/bicycle-only bridge in North America built exclusively for this purpose and connects approximatley 15 miles of scenic riverside trails right in the city! They just built it on top of the already existing dam.

I love how slick it looks at night. Can you imagine how incredible it would be if New Orleans had a pedestrian/bicycle portion piggybacked on to the GNO bridge? The Brooklyn bridge has it. Shit, even Little Rock has it – why can’t we?

Little Rock’s ex-governor Mike Huckabee even went from being a 300 lb. fat-shit to losing over 110 pounds and running the New York Marathon. The New York Times called the weight loss so rapid that “it was as if he simply unzipped a fat suit and stepped out.”

Looks like he took some advice from NOadventure. *Wink*

There’s also this weird Martial Arts Park downtown which seemed very out of place and unnecessary, but whatevs.

There is also a cool neighborhood called the Heights, where some nice dudes at Ozark Outdoor Supply gave me some free chapstick and told me about Pinnacle Mountain State Park which is an awesome place to bag a quick peak or trail run. Personally, I made a teepee and saw this blurry deer who absolutely did not give a fuck and was not afraid of humans.

All in all, it was a really fun little tour of our neighbor to the north… Arkansas(no not Canada, you dumbass).

You just read Part 2. For Arkansas Adventure: Part 1 – Ouachita, click here.