I love train travel. It’s great, isn’t it? Especially when it’s empty. Other human beings ruin train travel. I was on a train recently, going from Leeds to Sheffield, and there were so many people on it that some of us had to sit on the floor in the compartment between the carriages where the toilet was. Including me, which really got on my tits. I had one lad sat next to me doing his Trigonometry homework on one side and some slag blearing Tinchy Stryder from her phone at full volume on the other. It was like I’d stumbled upon Purgatory and was never going to get out.
When a train is empty, there’s something quite peaceful about it. Tranquillity. Time to think, relax. Maybe even read a book and enjoy the *cough* beautiful *cough* countryside. When it’s like that, I always get a window seat with four seats and a table to myself. As soon as someone comes in to sit down next to/opposite me, I immediately tell them to piss off. No hesitation, I just do it. If they refuse, I move to another window seat with four seats and a table while giving them a rather sinister glare.

Maybe one day I’ll get a window seat with four seats and a table whilst having my pockets stuffed with gelignite…

Mixture of architectural styles, with an emphasis on the Neo-Romanian order, in a grand 1920s country mansion from the Romanian province of Wallachia (©Valentin Mandache)

Romania has vast swathes of farming land, which were developed on a large scale starting with mid c19th once the Danube and the straits Bosphorus and Dardanelles waterways were freed from Ottoman control, allowing massive grain exports from the region to the industrial centres of Victorian Europe (see my article describing a Victorian barn from southern Romania built as part of that economic transformation). The local aristocrats and land owners administered their farms from impressive country mansions, called “conac” in Romanian, a word of Turkish origin (see a more extensive article about a typical such mansion: the Casota conac). The conacs were built in a variety of styles or mixture of styles, according to the money available and the fashion of the period from French fin de siècle to Neo-Romanian and Art Deco. The interesting example from the image above is from the village of Cornatelu in Wallachia and boasts mainly a Neo-Romanian architecture, typical of mid 1920s period with some French echoes, especially in the roof shape and ornaments. During the communist regime these mansions were confiscated from their owners and transformed in collective farm headquarters. Many of them were badly damaged, especially in the last 20 years of regime change in Romania, characterised by imperfect property legislation concerning the returning of property to the rightful owners. Some conacs are now on the market, but due to the huge property bubble of the last few years in Romania and immature market mentality of local property owners, have inflated, unrealistic prices, in many instances several times more expensive than c18th French châteaux or similar period properties from Italy.

Dear Historic Houses of Romania readers,

I have a new website address for my bolg at www.historo.wordpress.com (domain name derived from ‘Historic Houses of Romania’), with an entirely new and dynamic look. I very much hope you will like the new format. All my old articles and images are also contained within the new site, so you should not have any problems in accessing them there. For one month between 1 Nov. ‘09 and 1 Dec. ‘09, I will post simultaneously, in order to avoid confusions and allow for a smooth transition, my forthcoming architectural history articles and images on both old (‘viapontica’) and new (‘historo’) sites. After that date www.historo.wordpress.com will become my sole active blog site dedicated to the Historic Houses of Romania.

Best regards,

Valentin

***********************************************

I endeavor through this daily image series to inspire appreciation of the historic houses of Romania, a virtually undiscovered, but fascinating chapter of European architectural heritage.

***********************************************

If you plan acquiring a historic property in Romania or start a renovation project, I would be delighted to advice you in locating the property, specialist research, planning permissions, restoration project management, etc. To discuss your particular plan please see my contact details in the Contact page of this weblog.

Mixture of architectural styles, with an emphasis on the Neo-Romanian order, in a grand 1920s country mansion from the Romanian province of Wallachia (©Valentin Mandache)

Romania has vast swathes of farming land, which were developed on a large scale starting with mid c19th once the Danube and the straits Bosphorus and Dardanelles waterways were freed from Ottoman control, allowing massive grain exports from the region to the industrial centres of Victorian Europe (see my article describing a Victorian barn from southern Romania built as part of that economic transformation). The local aristocrats and land owners administered their farms from impressive country mansions, called “conac” in Romanian, a word of Turkish origin (see a more extensive article about a typical such mansion: the Casota conac). The conacs were built in a variety of styles, according to the money available and the fashion of the period from French fin de siècle to Neo-Romanian and Art Deco. The interesting example in the image above is from the village of Cornatelu in Wallachia and boasts mainly a Neo-Romanian architecture, typical of mid 1920s with some French echoes, especially in the roof shape and ornaments. During the communist regime these mansions were confiscated and transformed in collective farm headquarters. Many were badly damaged, especially in the last 20 years of regime change in Romania, characterised by imperfect property legislation concerning the returning of property to the rightful owners. Some conacs are now on the market, but due to the huge property bubble of the last few years in Romania and immature market mentality of local property owners, have inflated, unrealistic prices, in many instances several times more expensive than c18th French châteaux or similar period mansions from Italy.

***********************************************

I endeavor through this daily image series to inspire appreciation of the historic houses of Romania, a virtually undiscovered, but fascinating chapter of European architectural heritage.

***********************************************

If you plan acquiring a historic property in Romania or start a renovation project, I would be delighted to advice you in locating the property, specialist research, planning permissions, restoration project management, etc. To discuss your particular plan please see my contact details in the Contact page of this weblog.

If you would like some up to date Heritage news from Ireland, check out the Heritage Council website.  They seek to protect and enhance the richness, quality and diversity of Ireland’s national heritage for everyone. The Winter 2009-Spring 2010 Heritage Outlook Publication is available online, it features the latest heritage related matters in Ireland.

Downtown Denver Grand Illumination

November 27, 6:30PM

Neighborhood: Golden Triangle City and County Building
1435 Bannock St.
Denver, CO

Read More:

 http://denver.metromix.com/events/community_event/9news-light-the-lights-golden-triangle/776900/content

Denver Christkindl Market
When: Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays : 11 a.m. – 9 p.m. (November 27 through December 24)
Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays, and Wednesdays : 11 a.m. – 7 p.m. (November 27 through December 24)
Price: Free!
Location: Denver’s Skyline Park at the 16th Street Mall and Arapahoe Street.
Event Phone Number: 303-534-6161

This year the Denver Christkindl Market will once again host vendors from Germany and other European countries who offer quality, handcrafted gift items such as traditional hand-carved wooden figurines, handmade candles and ornaments. Traditional German food, pastries, and candy as well as authentic German beer and Glühwein will be featured.

http://www.denverchristkindlmarket.com/

Denver Microbrew Tour
Saturday, Nov 28 3:00p to 5:00PM
Tour Starts at: Great Divide Brewing CO, Denver, CO
 
The Denver Microbrew Tour is a two-hour guided walking tour in downtown Denver’s historic LoDo (lower downtown) area. If you are interested in learning more about the history of beer, how it is made, what the different types are and how they differ, why Denver has been called the Napa Valley of beer, or about the history of Denver and how it became the city it is today, then the Denver Microbrew Tour is for you. 

http://www.denvermicrobrewtour.com/

Sunday I went to my auntie’s house. Since the day was very cloudy, I thought it could be a good occasion for taking some monochrome photos.
Enjoy!

Hever Castle

My husband is always desperate to go do things on the weekend, I am not. I am not sure why because once in the car and at the destination I have a fantabulous time and then talk his ears off for the rest of the night about what a great day we had, and he always says “yes once we got you out of the house”

I do love it once I’m on my way that is.

Hubby was desperate to do something out-doorsy which is pretty hard right now as there seems to be a bit of rain in the UK it’s really bad. But there was a 3 hour window in which it was meant to NOT rain, we showered as fast as possible and set of to Hever.

After much debate about my husband saying “I dunno if I want to go there” honestly we spend 40 minutes always having a go at each other. Him about me not wanting to leave the house and me telling him every suggestion I make he doesn’t like” anyone else do this crap?

We got there and then it started raining, well what a surprise the weather board got it wrong. Eliza is a total princess and despite wearing 14 layers of clothing and a fleece and a wind and waterproof coat she was cold. I kept pointing out the castle in a very excited manner, and maybe there was a princess in there.

We raced down to the bridge and stopped for a quick jump in some puddles and then crossed the moat’s bridge where Eliza decided she would fall through one of the cracks and die. Daddy came to her rescue. he did point out to her that the cracks were not that big she could fall down between them.

Standing in the Entrance was a guide, under her breath I heard her say “children” to another guide, you could see the dread in her face. The desperation of yet more toddlers touching a tapestry or knocking a 1795 vase on to the floor started to flood my mind. You watch Eliza, I’ll take Jerry. I told my husband which is normally pointless as he forgets he’s meant to be watching one or other of them and I end up watching both of them, why is that? Hello, hello anyone out there or am I talking to myself…

Eliza is pretty good in places like this, she’s very interested in Artwork she wants to know who every single person is and what the painting is about, I try to get her to tell me what she thinks the paintings are about, and we look at them and talk about what we can see. Jerry has no time for this sadly might have something to do with the fact he is 17 months old.

She then says very loudly “IS THIS THE HOUSE OF THE QUEEN WHO HAD HER HEAD CUT OFF?” To say I was surprised was a understatement. back in July/August we had gone to Hever with friends, we didn’t go in the castle but the kids had a great time in the Gardens they also have a fantastic Adventure playground and water maze. I had told Eliza back then about Anne Boleyn I was so surprised she remember that and so proud, she has an amazing memory when she wants to, funny she can’t remember me saying 7347364 times a day to stop snatching and pushing her brother.

You’re not allowed to take photo’s in the house sadly so obviously I didn’t. Thankfully after a cup of tea the rain stopped and we headed back into the gardens I was relectunt to walk around as the kids had both been so sick last week, but they seemed fine.

Steps in the Italian Garden

The colours right now are lovely, was nice to let my eye photograph some thing else for a change.

Lots & lots of puddles!

It was flooded in parts and the kids had enormous fun, they got so wet! Luckily I had spare clothes for them both!

I just love this image.

Someone likes Swans

What the hell is going on here? She’s all nekkid and making out with a swan, it’s just wrong.

It really started to get very cold and the kids by this point were very wet, and I was very worried they were going to get ill again so we changed their clothes, banged the heating up, by the point I had driven a mile they were both fast asleep. A good day me thinks! We bought a Annual membership which means we now have access to the Castle and Gardens for a year. I can’t wait!

Definitely worth a day out even just to the gardens!

]]> http://imnotagenius.wordpress.com/2009/11/24/rusty/ Wed, 25 Nov 2009 04:28:58 +0000 Carl http://imnotagenius.wordpress.com/2009/11/24/rusty/

A rare example of peasant style saw work wooden gateway (in the fashion of the southern Romanian peasant wooden churches) to the courtyard of a 1920s Neo-Romanian house in Catargiu area of Bucharest (©Valentin Mandache)

Dear Historic Houses of Romania readers,

I have a new website address for my bolg at www.historo.wordpress.com (domain name derived from ‘Historic Houses of Romania’), with an entirely new and dynamic look. I very much hope you will like the new format. All my old articles and images are also contained within the new site, so you should not have any problems in accessing them there. For one month between 1 Nov. ‘09 and 1 Dec. ‘09, I will post simultaneously, in order to avoid confusions and allow for a smooth transition, my forthcoming architectural history articles and images on both old (‘viapontica’) and new (‘historo’) sites. After that date www.historo.wordpress.com will become my sole active blog site dedicated to the Historic Houses of Romania.

Best regards,

Valentin

***********************************************

I endeavor through this daily image series to inspire appreciation of the historic houses of Romania, a virtually undiscovered, but fascinating chapter of European architectural heritage.

***********************************************

If you plan acquiring a historic property in Romania or start a renovation project, I would be delighted to advice you in locating the property, specialist research, planning permissions, restoration project management, etc. To discuss your particular plan please see my contact details in the Contact page of this weblog.

A rare example of peasant style saw work wooden gateway (in the fashion of the southern Romanian peasant wooden churches) to the courtyard of a 1920s Neo-Romanian house in Catargiu area of Bucharest (©Valentin Mandache)

***********************************************

I endeavor through this daily image series to inspire appreciation of the historic houses of Romania, a virtually undiscovered, but fascinating chapter of European architectural heritage.

***********************************************

If you plan acquiring a historic property in Romania or start a renovation project, I would be delighted to advice you in locating the property, specialist research, planning permissions, restoration project management, etc. To discuss your particular plan please see my contact details in the Contact page of this weblog.

We are so excited about all the things that we might do in the first days that we are living in the village.

Here is the list – what can you recommend is top of the list?

Every few years something happens that is truly exciting, fun and filled with uncertainty.

We all do it.

It is stressful and amazing at the same time and completely changes our lives.

Moving house! We are moving to a small village called Pluckley.

It is really exciting and we are going to be moving very soon. We will be in our new house before Christmas. We have a really long list of all the things that we intend to do when we move to the new village and get used to village life. In some ways, we already do some of these things – as at the weekend we spend lots of time in the area. Of course, moving there will save lots of time and travelling, and being so close to the train station will be transformational!

I have been looking back at some of my old blog posts and found that we were interested in this village – but perhaps never knew it. I will assemble the blog posts here so that you can see part of the journey of realisation that we went through.

I am looking forward to meeting some of the local villagers and our neighbours and getting to know more about the village. Will you help me? Phil

Ngày ấy, yêu em say-mê… (P1090845-W1), originally uploaded by Nguyen K. Do.

Eltham, November 2009.
Nguyen K. Do © 2009

Để Bụi Đường Cay Lòng Mắt (IMG_5544-W1), originally uploaded by Nguyen K. Do.

View On Black

Eltham, November 2009.
Nguyen K. Do © 2009

A Day of Rest

As I sit blogging this morning the house is quiet, the wind is gently blowing the wind chimes and the antique clock is rhythmically setting the pace for the day.

I am reminded of a picture that hangs in my Mom’s living room. I remember this print well. It is an English countryside and in the distance is a beautiful Catherdal church with “folks” dressed in their Sunday “best” strolling in the early morning light of the day on their way to church.

Along the way are reminders of the importance of this day in that community. The sheep are resting, the plow stocks are resting, the cattle are grazing…..everywhere you look there is a reminder of this pictures namesake….”A Day of Rest”

Today is that day for me. This day was created to allow us time to rest. Cat Stevens sings about it in “Morning Has Broken” as he sings about re-create….it is time for me to rest and re-create. It is my prayer for you today that you can rest and re-create.

A Day of Rest

As I sit blogging this morning the house is quiet, the wind is gently blowing the wind chimes and the antique clock is rhythmically setting the pace for the day.

I am reminded of a picture that hangs in my Mom’s living room.  I remember this print well.  It is an English countryside and  in the distance is a beautiful Catherdal church with “folks” dressed in their  Sunday “best”  strolling in the early morning light of the day  on their way to church.

Along the way are reminders of the importance of this day in that community.  The sheep are resting, the plow stocks are resting, the cattle are grazing…..everywhere you look there is a reminder of this pictures namesake….”A Day of Rest”

Today is that day for me.  This day was created to allow us time to rest.  Cat Stevens sings about it in “Morning HAs Broken” as he sings about re-create….it is time for me to rest and re-create.  It is my prayer for you today that you can rest and re-create.

My very old and lovely friend Hartman sent me the following:

To keep the blues at bay I am back to carving logs. This one attached is titled ‘The Curses of Paikdev, A Lament for Water’. It was a birthday present for my sister and is planted on her farm [in Goa]. It faces Paikeachi Zor (Paik’s Spring), which will disappear very shortly hanks to the rampant mining in the area. My sister plans to court arrest again, and this time refuse bail. She hopes that at least will get the Goans out.

In the thickly forested hills between the villages of Maina and Kawrem, to the south east of Quepem Town, a poignant story once fortunate enough to have had a happy ending, is now destined to end more sadly than it could ever have begun.

800 overloaded trucks groaning through the town throughout the day barring a few hours respite to let schoolchildren in the area to scamper to and from school is testament to this. It is this very same business, though ‘greed’ may be a better term, that is ‘legally’ destroying a myth of almost epic proportions, and with it, again ‘legally’, the water sources and bodies of the area.
Every morning since September, barring days when the local Gods punish them with rain that gives surviving trees and rich mud a few days of respite, one convoy after another, hauls mining waste from two mines that don’t yet have permission to dump in what is essentially forest land not yet discovered by the forest authorities. This is being hauled into the Ambaulim plateau, and dumped in government forest land, to prepare the ground for the new by-pass road, supposed to cost 28 crore. No matter that permissions and protocols for this soon-to-be bypass road have yet to be granted. One wonders how 28 crore for a state of the art road to haul ore from Maina and Kawrem to barges waiting with open mouths in Sanguem, compares with figures that the government has on agricultural and other subsides provided to the same two villages.

But one forgets. This is about mining. As everyone in Goa will tell you, mining is the backbone of the Goan economy. What mining wants, mining gets. This is the story from when a Colonial power in the region first found ore, and with friendly Goans, sold it to their Fascist comrades in Japan and Germany, and this is the story, whether one likes it or not that we must believe.

In these hills where the trees are being bulldozed with mechanical precision and the forklifts warming their engines at 6.15 in the morning, where springs that have provided drinking water for centuries, where the Gods themselves participated in this happiness of water, every Goan also has the right to know, that this same area resonated with myths and legends pertaining to water.

As ministers and cronies invested in this land in a frenzy barely three years back, how was the Velip community, sweet-talked into selling their lands, to know that mining companies would put down huge advance payments on the table, and overnight, turn able-bodied men into truck drivers hauling ore, their mouths covered with colored bandanas to stave off the chocking red dust?

The really sad story of course, is that the mining companies and those who support them legally, are not overly concerned with ‘cultural memory’ and what role this can play with influencing ways of life and work more in consonance with nature.

The ways things are going it does appear that the Gods are on the side of those taking away our forests and water. The best off will drive even newer and more expensive cars, live their fantasies of owning more watches, sire sons who cut their hair in New Delhi and daughters who buy their underwear in Paris. They will be rich and famous and be ideal role models for young Goans in our high schools and colleges because they appear on Page 3.

If they could spare the time from this mad race to see how fast they can get as much as they can from Goa while it lasts, they would know of a lovely story concerning Paik, a warrior deity venerated by the Velip community as their protector.

In his most basic avatar, he sits astride a horse, a quintessential tribal warrior, although even this may not have been his essential form.

Once upon a time, legend in the area has it, a lovely Velip girl from Maina was married into Kawrem. She was much loved in both villages and was soon blessed with child, a bright-eyed boy who, just like his mother, had love showered on him. While both villages received an abundance of rain both we re dependent on a spring with water so sweet it felt like it was touched with nectar. The spring was a good forty minute walk for the young woman who fetched the water while her husband ploughed and tended the fields and livestock. One day however, tragedy struck. She reached home with her pots full of water to find her baby covered with tiny black ants and his tender skin covered with bright red spots.

Both villages offered prayer to their Paikdev, but to no avail, the little boy never recovered. The young Velip girl was so heart-broken she too slowly drifted away in sadness. After months of both villages grieving at the loss of two cherished lives, the girl’s father, joined by elders from Maina, went to the spring barely a hundred yards away from their dwellings. The same spring that the girl from Maina had to reach struggling over two small hills. The father carried an empty mud pot. At the spring, berating Paikdev for not protecting his daughter and grandson, the old man smashed the mud pot.

From that day, as if shamed, Paikdev ensured that three quarters of the water would flow into Kawrem and only one quarter into Maina. In gratitude the villagers of both villages began referring to the site of this miracle as ‘Paikeachi Zor’, ‘Paik’s Spring’.

All those trek to this spring have been in awe of this huge rock embedded in a hill, a tree growing above it, it’s roots holding it in place and its leaves throwing a canopy of shade even on the hottest summer’s noon, exactly one quarter of water flowing from the mouth in Maina, three quarters into Kawrem from a long arm stretched through the hills separating the two villages.

There are some 16 mining leases under process in the area. Two have been in operation from last year, one has started barely three weeks back. All have speeded up their operations lest public opinion goes against them. It is almost inevitable that the venerated spring will disappear in two years. They have already begun to attack the Kawrem hill leading to the forests and small waterfall. One of the leases in a huge travesty of even good taste is actually titled ‘Paikeachi Zor’.

So be it. Paik, a tribal deity, a warrior who also recognizes the value and importance of water, the source of all life, is not mean. He cannot be. He will offer blessings to those in the mad race for prosperity and plenty. But know this though:

When the hills disappear and the rains get less and less, when wasted mud takes the place of trees, when the river that runs through Quepem town slows to a trickle to be replaced by garbage, when surrounding villages have their own slum areas and garages to repair trucks become as important as bars, when clean water in Margao may end up costing as much as petrol and those investing in mining turn to water, then let those Goans who feign ignorance of the destruction wrought by mining know how important Paikdev was.

Two Worlds

Spinning Grass

Life and Death

Surrounded by its 100 acres of gardens, fields, woods and original outbuildings, Sweet Home transports all who visit to Georgia’s Antebellum South, evoking the beauty, grace and charm of the Old South Legend. This National Historic Register 1840 Greek Revival Home is a virtual mid-19th century time capsule, beautifully furnished with period furniture. Sweet Home Plantation is ideally suited for weddings and receptions, private parties, corporate events, barbeques and picnics. The spacious grounds offer the perfect setting for large or intimate events. The elegant home is a wonderful spot for teas, luncheons, cocktail receptions or small seated dinner parties. For more information, visit the Pine Mountain Destination Guide

It’s drizzling outside and I’m sitting in front of the computer beside the window.  I like the feel of the cold air, it’s very relaxing.  The mood is very melancholic, the sky is gray and I can see rain against my window pane.  It’s very quiet right now, except for the vehicles passing by occasionally.  It makes me feel like I’m in countryside.  I have always dreamed of countryside.  I can close my eyes and imagine green pastures with wild flowers everywhere.  I don’t want to open my eyes and look outside because I don’t want to see the tall buildings surrounding me and look down to see cemented streets.  There are not much trees, shrubs, or plants to see.  City life is never appealing to me, even though I was brought up in a city.  I have never been in countryside.  I have only seen them in movies, so maybe I’m over-romanticizing the idea of it.  But heck, who wouldn’t want to ride a bike with a basket full of flowers attached in front of it along a grassy plain, a smell of freshly baked bread in the morning, a glass full of fresh milk, plants and fruits ready for picking?  Ah, I love the image of it, and just picturing it relaxes me!  Okay, maybe I’m over-romanticizing the idea of it, but that’s for me to find out, and I can’t wait for that day to come! =)

I finally got a chance to shoot what I wanted, the way I wanted in a small Transylvanian village called Holbav. That’s where the photo of me in the oxen cart was taken (last post).

Though Holbav is only about 20km away from Brasov (the region’s largest city) it is a world away in terms of everything else.  Not much would have changed here over the last 100 years or so. Incredibly, there is still no electricity, no running water and none of the other comforts taken for granted in the “modern” Europe. In other words in many ways the village is representative of what a lot of Romania must have been like a long while ago. This is exactly what I wanted to photograph.

My time in Holbav, though very short, was intense. There are times when I want to limit what I know about a place. I think not knowing helps me to be open to only the positive aspects and to concentrate purely on my photography. Unfortunately that wasn’t the case here.

It’s a long story not worth getting into on the blog, but the bottom line is, I found out too much. That the place is not perfect, that life there is hard and the hardships sometimes have a negative impact on people, naturally. Though my experience was 99% great, being aware of the brute, savage and cruel qualities that occasionally come out of the local population was not something I wanted.

In any case, here are some images from this fascinating village.

Dominicu collecting hay, which had been drying for a couple of weeks prior.

Tony packing hay for winter storage.

Ioan and his oxen. Apparently they are pretty old. Ioan used voice commands and beat the crap out of them to get the desired results. It was often a pitiful scene, which is better communicated through video, which I also made, but cannot share until I reach a fast internet connection.

I don’t remember this old gentleman’s name, though I met him twice. He was a lovely fellow, but sure looked like he was drinking a lot, the second time I saw him.

No electricity means that kerosene lamps. replace light-bulbs. Here Ioan hangs the lamp on one of the few hooks that exist around his house.

Next stop – Maramures – supposedly it’s a photographer’s paradise in many ways. We’ll see.