“Ésta es la más visitada por los turistas. En la calle Hatun Rumiyoq (“De la Roca Mayor”) se encontraba el palacio de Inca Roca, que actualmente pertenece al Palacio Arzobispal.

En esta calle que va desde la plaza de Armas hasta el barrio de San Blas, se puede apreciar la enigmática piedra de los doce ángulos.” (Fuente del texto y más información en Wikipedia)

Desde el siguiente enlace podéis acceder a las fotos que realicé en el 2009 de la ciudad de Cuzco (Qosqo – Cusco) – Perú:

Álbum de fotos de la Calle Hatun Rumiyuq de Cuzco – Perú. (live spaces)

Otras fotos de Perú en este blog.

Otras fotos de Cuzco (Qosqo o Cusco)  en este blog.

Como introducción la siguiente foto:

Fotos de la Calle Hatun Rumiyuq de Cuzco (Qosqo o Cusco) – Perú.

CC martin_javier #2009

Patricia’s dad, Carlos, celebrated his birthday yesterday. Patricia’s dad and several of his family members played traditional Peruvian folk songs on the guitar, banjo and accordion. We all ate yummie lechon, even Brianna!!!

After a few cervezas papi even danced to traditional Peruvian folk music… bad uncoordinated gringo

Carlos playing guitar

Brianna Nayaraq con su bisabuela

Baby Brianna watching her grandpa play guitar

senora urubamba

From the Amazon to the Andes, sunburns to ice capped tents, robberies to endless hospitality, these six months have been anything but mundane and just as I struggled to begin, I struggle to bring my Peruvian Adventure to an end. So many sights, sounds and smells that were initially foreign (sometimes repulsive) to me are now “normal” some even comforting, like the continuous play list of huayno music and the hard working, leathered women who smell of sour milk and smoked meat and greet me with ‘ola, mama’ through smiles of gold teeth. Some things will never be comforting: the life-threatening buses that never arrive on time, the smell of raw meat in the open markets that has been hanging for days and the sight of both adults and children alike sleeping and urinating in the streets. And, while I have come to finally explain many of these things, many more will remain mysteries: the languages that have lasted centuries, the ruins (past and present) that I have walked through and those that have yet to be discovered and still, the slow, complacent lifestyle that is mixed with endless, back bending hard work.

our first day of biology

I have no doubt that the remaining days will continue to pass quickly, never failing to teach me something new or to reveal subtle beauty that I have, at times, taken for granted and I’m sure that when I return in three weeks I will have even more experiences to share. However, I have to end my story with Tikapata school and the thirty-five incredibly smart, accepting and beautiful students who have helped me to appreciate life’s sense of humor, a bit dry at times, sometimes inappropriate, but lately extremely quick and imperceptible. If asked six months ago, “what do you want to do when you grow up?”, education would have been scraped from the bottom of my well of answers, yet, as the last two weeks have passed, life has drawn me closer and closer to the “E” word. My first day of school began last week and mimicked the past five months, passing both quickly and unbelievably slowly; I arrived “home” with a huge smile on my face and my very first full-blown migraine, if I have never voiced my appreciation for teachers, I am doing so now. With the stress and headaches, however, comes a sense of satisfaction that can be explained with both selfishness and wonder. The selfish satisfaction comes from the hugs that I get each morning and the constant questions of “how do you say your name in English?”, “what do you do in the U.S.?”, “what is it like at your home, do you have a rainforest too?”, and one of my favorites, “what is that thing [nose ring] in your nose?” The wonder stems from watching the kids (3-12 years old) doing yoga, growing their own gardens, learning English, math and music and all treating each other like family. They help in the small, adobe kitchen, tie each other’s shoes, sweep the classroom floors before going home and aren’t phased as the school mascots (dogs), Flora and Paco, run through class. Like any school, Tikapata is not perfect, it is lacking in biology and history and the atmosphere may be a bit casual (kids running barefoot and shirtless through the creek), but I believe that the natural surroundings expose them to more wildlife than could be taught in the classroom, most of their history is scattered throughout the mountains overlooking the school and hey, kids should be kids…and perhaps we adults should too.

cesar

My time here in Peru, especially with the students of both Tikapata and Isuyama, has been extremely humbling. There have been times that I’ve taken myself too seriously, planning every detail to the minute and translated word. However, once I’m surrounded by kids who look at me with curiosity and respect and yet have vocabularies that put mine to shame and who know more than I, a “biologist”, about the local flora and fauna, I quickly forget about plans and high self-expectations. Here is where life’s humor comes into play, I had to come to Peru to learn this obvious lesson, but perhaps I simply needed to take a step away from the norm and out of my repetitious schedule to recall what it’s like to be a kid again, to take a deep breath, relax and to appreciate every experience as if it were my first (or maybe my last). Yes, Peru offers many things that the states do not, I’ve been to the Amazon, hiked the Andes and have visited Machu Picchu twice, but the States offer many things that I cannot find here, including all of my friends and family. It will be difficult to leave this amazing country, but I can’t wait to go home with a newfound curiosity to explore everything that I’ve overlooked and a fresh outlook to remind me that nothing in this world is too wonderful to be true.

History of Huayno: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Huay%C3%B1o

More about Tikapata: http://ecotikapata.blogspot.com/

“El Coricancha (quechua: Quri Kancha, ‘templo dorado’ )^, originalmente Inti Kancha («Templo del sol») es el templo inca sobre el cual fue construido el Convento de Santo Domingo.

Fue uno de los más venerados y respetados templos de la ciudad del Cusco, en el Perú.

El recinto de oro, como era conocido, era un lugar sagrado donde se rendía pleitesía al máximo dios inca: el Inti (Sol), por lo que sólo podían entrar en ayunas, descalzos y con una carga en la espalda en señal de humildad, según lo indicaba el sacerdote mayor Willaq Umu (Vila Oma).” (Fuente del texto y más información en Wikipedia)

Desde el siguiente enlace podéis acceder a las fotos que realicé en el 2009 de la ciudad de Cuzco (Qosqo – Cusco) – Perú:

Álbum de fotos de Coricancha y Convento de Santo Domingo en Cuzco – Perú. (live spaces)

Otras fotos de Perú en este blog.

Otras fotos de Cuzco (Qosqo o Cusco)  en este blog.

Como introducción la siguiente foto:

Fotos de Coricancha y Convento de Santo Domingo en Cuzco (Qosqo o Cusco) – Perú.

CC martin_javier #2009

by Denise May – Travelink

“Off the beaten path” has many meanings when it comes to travel. It could be a hidden gem in your own back yard or region. It could be a place where crowds choose not to flock. It also could be that one magical place on earth where an incredible experience awaits.

Peru can definitely be put on that list.

When one thinks of Peru, thoughts go immediately to Machu Picchu. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the view most people associate when looking at photos from the area. This area, some 80 km from Cuzco, is rich with beauty and Inca tradition and it is filled with architecture and beauty that tells an incredible story. One unique way to see Machu Pichu is to visit with a shaman or trek along the area — all the while setting up camp each night. If “off the beaten path” is what you’re looking for, then these are two great options.

When visiting the area, it is best to make your base in Cuzco. The location is much better (and closer) than Lima. You’ll be able to take day trips that can include rafting, horseback riding, tours of the ruins and more. For those looking for a little extra adventure, this is the best route to go.

No trip to Peru would be complete without getting a look at the Amazon. A visit to Puerto Maldonado will gives visitors a true, unblemished experience where the true power of this wonder of nature is felt. While there, it’s good to visit the unchanged villages that dot the shoreline.

If you’re looking to expand your horizons a little more, consider a couple of add-ons to Ecuador and the Galapagos. From Cuzco, it is an easy diversion.

“Off the beaten path?” For sure. And for anyone looking for adventure, Peru may very well be the place to go.

Is Peru a dream destination? Take a look at some of the Peru travel experiences we have available.

“La Plaza de Armas del Cuzco fue antiguamente un pantano, que durante la época de los incas fue secado y se transformó en el centro administrativo, religioso y cultural de la capital del imperio. Después de la conquista fue ocupada por los españoles, quienes lo rodearon de templos y mansiones construidas sobre los palacios incas de alrededor; en ella fue ejecutado Túpac Amaru II en 1781. Actualmente es el núcleo central del Cuzco moderno, rodeado por restaurantes turísticos, joyerías, agencias de viaje y los mismos templos del periodo de la conquista.” (Fuente del texto y más información en Wikipedia).

Desde el siguiente enlace podéis acceder a las fotos que realicé en el 2009 de la ciudad de Cuzco (Qosqo – Cusco) – Perú:

Álbum de fotos de la Plaza de Armas de Cuzco – Perú. (live spaces)

Otras fotos de Perú en este blog.

Otras fotos de Cuzco (Qosqo o Cusco)  en este blog.

Como introducción la siguiente foto:

Fotos de la Plaza de Armas de Cuzco (Qosqo o Cusco) – Perú.

CC martin_javier #2009

Fermin Quispe, presidente de la FARTAC -federación de la CNA en el Cusco- brindando declaraciones ante la prensa cusqueña

En una entrevista a un medio de prensa, Fermín Quispe Paccsi, presidente de la Federación Agraria Revolucionaria Túpac Amaru de Cusco- FARTAC, manifestó que los efectos del cambio climático ya están afectando a algunas zonas agrícolas de la región cusqueña.

El dirigente cusqueño señaló que en las provincias altas y hasta en el mismo valle Sagrado de los Incas ya se evidencia una ausencia de lluvias, lo que podría afectar seriamente la producción del maíz, producto estrella de Urubamba.

Ante está situación Fermín Quispe, pidió al Ministerio de Agricultura que agilice el seguro agrario para que los campesinos, que serviría de ayuda en caso de perder sus cultivos

Tomado de Correo de Cusco

Para la conquista de la región de los “chunchos” por parte de los incas, existe concenso en que fue durante la segunda mitad del siglo XV cuando los incas anexan la vertiente oriental, bajo el mandato de Inca Yupanqui (pachacuti) y su hijo Tupak Yupanqui. Garcilaso de la Vega dice que Tupac Yupanqui envió un ejército en una flota de balsas de maguey que bajó el curso mediano e inferior de Madre de Dios, sometió a los pueblos ribereños llamados chunchos…1
El Cacao Chuncho se encuentra ubicado geográficamente en los valles de la Convención de la Región Cuzco cultivo nativo que fue domesticado por la comunidad nativa “Matsiguengas”, aunque las mayores extensiones fueron sembradas hace mas de cien años y que deben ser rescatados…2
Los machiguengas, milenarios habitantes de la amazonía peruana en Quillabamba (Pampa de la Luna, en quechua) y agricultores de los Valles de la Convención y Lares, se han convertido en diestros empresarios, después de un largo camino de experiencias, inclusive de luchas sociales y reformas agrarias. Es una valiosa alternativa para reemplazar el cultivo de la coca.
Una de las exitosas iniciativas es la sociedad anónima Industrias Alimentarias de la Convención, creada hace 22 años como la locomotora del desarrollo regional. Cuenta con una moderna planta de procesamiento de cacao libre de pesticidas, de la especie más fina de América Latina.
Se solicitará denominación CACAO CHUNCHO
(Peru.com: 2006/9/25) La Dirección Regional de Agricultura de Cusco informó que solicitará la denominación de origen del cacao chuncho (nativo) ante el Instituto Nacional de Defensa de la Competencia y de la Protección de la Propiedad Intelectual (INDECOPI) para preservar su procedencia.

Según se explicó, la elaboración del expediente está a cargo de una comisión técnica en la que participa el Ministerio de Agricultura y la Asociación de Productores de Cacao.
La intención es de logar la propuesta en tres meses con la intención de proteger el cacao cuzqueño de cualquier imitación.
Se destacó que en la actualidad Cusco produce seis mil toneladas anuales de cacao en 22 mil hectáreas de cultivos, dirigidas por unas mil familias de la zona.
Se considera una mejora en la situación pues se acaba de inaugurar una planta de procesamiento de cacao con una capacidad de producción de 1.2 toneladas por hora.
esta planta procesadora, considerada la más grande del Perú y Latinoamérica, se instaló mediante un esfuerzo conjunto de la empresa Indaco y el Banco Interamericano de Desarrollo (BID).
I Concurso Regional de Super-árboles de Cacao Chuncho

El I Concurso Regional de Superárboles de Cacao “Chuncho” que se llevó a cabo en Echarate, provincia de la Convención (Cusco) entre el 9 al 13 de febrero, tuvo como finalidad identificar a los mejores árboles, el fomento de su conservación y la multiplicación de los mismos.
El referido concurso fue organizado por el MINAG y los agentes de la cadena productiva desde los productores representados por la Asociación Peruana de Productores, el Consejo Nacional de Competitividad, el gobierno regional de Cusco y la municipalidad de Echarate.
Se presentaron al concurso 251 frutos, de los cuáles 210 estuvieron aptos después de la primera evaluación y sólo once frutos de súper-árboles de cacao chuncho resultaron ganadores. Los frutos fueron reconocidos por sus cualidades particulares como un tipo de cacao nativo con atributos propios y diferenciables de otros.

1…(.Fuente :www.amazonia.bo/historia)
2..Appcacao
3..café Ayllu

Off Plaza de Armas…

Nei pressi di Plaza de Armas….

You can easily come across native people walking with a leashed llama, asking you for a photo or holding  a baby  llama in their arms folded with the typical colorful Peruvian rug.

These are the people from the countryside which commute every day to the City trying to make a living availing the tourist wave selling the typical local handcrafts which turn out to be extremely cheap, such as gloves, bags,belt,ponchos..

Puoi incontrare con facilità Nativi che passeggiano con un lama al guinzaglio, che ti chiedono di fotografarli in cambio di qualche spicciolo oppure mentre tengono in braccio un cucciolo di lama avvolto nel tipico, coloratissimo plaid peruviano. Provengono dalla campagna e vengono in città coi loro manufatti ( i tipici cappelli che coprono anche le orecchie, oppure delle cinture coloratissime, guanti, poncho, borse..)

While walking in Cuzco City Centre it can also happen to spot an old fashioned shoe-shine or..

Mentre passeggi per il centro di Cusco può anche capitarti di incrociare un desueto Sciuscià o…

or a beautifully carved wooden balcony …

oppure uno stupendo balcone di legno intarsiato….

or just a blueish wooden window!

oppure una imposta di legno che più blu non si può!

 

 

 

I think that travel comes from some deep urge to see the world, like the urge that brings up a worm in an Irish bog to see the moon when it is full.  ~Lord Dunsany

Penso che il viaggio deriva da qualche  profonda urgenza di vedere il mondo, la stessa urgenza che attira su  un verme in una palude irlandese a vedere la luna quando è piena. ~Lord Dunsany

número 126
18/10/06

Alecrim, alecrim dourado…

Introdução - Dezenove pontos percentuais, segundo o IBOPE, separam os candidatos. Lamentável “a massa de manobra” estar cada vez mais inebriada pelo sonho de “um dia eu vou estar lá!”. Pobre Brasil!! Ainda vamos ficar no “limbo” durante um bom tempo! Lamento!

Bebidas e vinhos – Não anotados. A revolta era grande! rs Ou seria a quantidade deles.

MENU

Entrada – Erva doce com maionese e wasabi
                Salame com manjericão e salsa
                Banana com cream cheese e geléia de pimenta

Principal – Salada de melancia, tomate e ervas
                 Costeleta de porco com molho de alecrim
                 Arroz Basmati

Sobremesa – Petit Gateau de Doce de Leite

Comentários finais

Comida saborosa e cheirosa. (Edu)
Delícia deliciosa! Alecrim supera e marca. (Déo)
Obra prima!!! Melancia com tomate. Sabores insuperáveis em união. (Mingão)

Fotos da intermináaaavel série hotéis maravilhosos e vistas dos quartos mais ainda. Estas bem que poderiam ser da Toscana, mas não são.
São do hotel Monasterio que fica em Cuzco no Peru. Como o nome dele já diz, este hotel é um verdadeiro mosteiro com direito a inúmeros obras de arte da escola cusquenha e a uma capela fantástica com altar recoberto em ouro e tudo  o mais.

Observação - Este menu parecia de um daqueles restaurantes espanhóis e veggies. Ou melhor, semi-veggies já que costeleta de porco e salame não são muito compatíveis com a proposta. E involução total na descrição dos vinhos. Vinhos?
Como diria o grande ( e finado) Buru: Quantos riso, oh, quantas alegria … Alecrim está chorando pelo amor da Colombina!! rs

Dicas do Mark Bittman

O que você deve ter sempre na despensa ou geladeira …

Pinoli - Com eles e algumas uvas passas, se faz qualquer prato siciliano.

.

INFORME DEL I CAMPEONATO NACIONAL DE ESCALADA DEPORTIVA PACHAR 2009

Lo que comenzó como un sueño para algunos de los miembros del Club de Andinismo Cusco al querer agrupar a los mejores escaladores del Perú en uno de los centros de escalada deportiva y clásica más importante del Cusco como Pachar se concreto el sábado pasado. Bajo un cielo azul y el brillante sol que calentaba el Valle Sagrado de los Incas y desde luego las paredes verticales de Pachar, el día sábado 10 de octubre, se realizó con todo éxito el 1er Campeonato Nacional de Escalada Deportiva Pachar 2009.

25 competidores en las tres categorías; entre extranjeros y nacionales, limeños dentro de los cuales el más joven de todos, Diego Lequerica de 14 años; arequipeños y cusqueños compitieron por ser los mejores de esta competencia intentado encadenar las distintas vías que se equiparon exclusivamente para el campeonato.

Partimos de Cusco a las 7:30 am del día sábado 10 rumbo a Pachar; llegando alrededor de las 9:30 am, luego de la inauguración, la competencia comenzó simultáneamente por tres vías para las tres categorías, Varones Masters, Varones Noveles y Mujeres.

Siendo los ganadores:

En la Categoría Varones Masters:

Primer lugar:               Steven Sylvester                   (Inglaterra)

Segundo Lugar:          Arístides Ramos                  (Cusco)

Tercer Lugar:             Jorge Díaz                              (Cusco)

En la Categoría Varones Noveles:

Primer lugar:              Guido Mollepaza                    (Arequipa)

Segundo Lugar:          Diego Lequerica                  (Lima)

Tercer Lugar:             Juan Mamani                         (Arequipa)

En la categoría Mujeres:

Primer lugar:              Yadira Bernales                     (Cusco)

Segundo Lugar:        Tine Hochholze                     (Austria)

Tercer Lugar:             Lixayda Vasquez                   (Cusco

Van nuestras felicitaciones y agradecimiento a todos ellos y a los demás competidores que nos acompañaron esa mañana.

Debemos agradecer también a Alfredo Zúñiga y a Ario Ferri, quienes fueron los encargados de equipar las vías de la competencia, trabajaron muy duro los últimos tres días para dejar todo listo, su experiencia y conocimientos determinaron las correctas dificultades para cada categoría. Para Omar Moscoso fue una experiencia muy rica, como asistente de los equipadores aprendió bastante y dio mucho de si esos dos arduos días, le estamos muy agradecidos por eso.

Asimismo, debemos agradecer a los jueces de la competencia, al Sr. Cesar Pujazon, Ario Ferri, Aron Zarate y Alfredo Zúñiga.

Luego de la ceremonia de premiación, las palabras de clausura del evento estuvieron a cargo del Sr Cesar Pujazon, fundador de nuestro Club.

Partimos rumbo al Cusco alrededor de las 4:30 p.m. dando gracias a Pachar por todas las aventuras vividas en sus paredes.

Nuestro mayor reconocimiento es para nuestros auspiciadores:

Red Bull; con sus bebidas energéticas cargaron de energía a los espectadores y le pusieron alas a los gatos de los competidores para superar muchos de los pasos difíciles.

Movistar; por permitirnos difundir la competencia gracias a los afiches que nos proporcionaron.

Cusco Treks & Tours, por el significativo aporte económico que nos permitió tener éxito en el evento, agradecemos al Sr. Aurelio Aguirre, fundador de nuestro club, y sus hijas Katherinne y Mariel Aguirre por el apoyo brindado.

Tambopata Lodge, por proporcionarnos el premio para el primer puesto, un tour de 3 días y dos noches en el Parque Nacional de Tambopata para dos personas, agradecemos también al Sr. Tomas Hendrickson, fundador de nuestro Club, por toda su ayuda.

Tatoo Adventure Gear; por proporcionarnos un arnés, mosquetón y descensor, que fue el primer premio para la Categoría Mujeres, muchas gracias al Sr. Ricardo Valencia Salas.

Escuela de Gastronomía, Bar y Hotelería Latinoamericano; sus riquísimos y nutritivos boxlunch restablecieron las energías perdidas de los competidores durante la primera fase de la competencia, muchas gracias al Sr. Max Anaya y al Sr. Darío Romanville.

Inversiones El Kosa; los competidores solo tenían una meta, quedar en el primer puesto en su categoría y poder así llevarse una de las “manitos”, que vinieron a ser los trofeos muy creativamente elaborados por el Sr. Víctor Hugo Álvarez, fue quizás lo más codiciado por todos los competidores.

Agua Phura del Cusco por hidratarnos durante toda la competencia.

Sacred Valley Vía Ferrata; Por auspiciarnos con tours en la vía ferrata, muchas gracias a Ario y Natalia por su ayuda.

Khipu; por obsequiarnos una hermosa mochila de montaña para el segundo puesto de la categoría Varones Masters, muchas gracias.

Climbing Room (cuarto de escalada); gracias a nuestro amigo Arón Zarate que nos auspicio con dos drybags y chapas para equipar las distintas vías de la competencia.

Casa Elena; a nuestro amigo y miembro del Club Yves Chemin que nos ayudo con el transporte Cusco Pachar para los miembros de la Cruz Roja y organización, muchas gracias Ivan.

Andean Destinations Adventure Tours; a Alfredo Zúñiga miembro de nuestro Club quien fue uno de los equipadores de las vías de competencia y a Lixayda Vasquez “Lichi” por los chalk bags hechos a mano que fueron los premios de los terceros lugares en todas las categorías.

Agencia de Viajes Mayuc Cusco, por el apoyo economico que ayudo a la organizacion de la competencia.

Action Valley; por el auspicio con un salto Bungee Jumping, Juan (Arequipa) nunca lo va a olvidar.

Antis y Revista Tucu; por la difusión que le dieron al evento a  nivel nacional a través de las páginas de su periódico.

MUCHÍSIMAS GRACIAS A TODOS ELLOS, SIN SU AYUDA NO HABRÍA SIDO POSIBLE LOGRARLO.

Dentro de la Organización del Campeonato damos las gracias a Yadira Bernales quien fue una de las impulsadoras del evento, estuvo trabajando desde mucho antes con los proyectos y particularidades del evento; Lixayda Vasquez por su diligencia y determinación en la búsqueda de auspiciadores y en la organización en general, Jorge Diaz por su empeño y paciencia en la organización del evento; Giancarlo Palomino quien estuvo a cargo de las labores de Marketing y Publicidad; Irmaluz Pancorbo gracias a su esfuerzo en contactarse con auspiciadores y por sus presentaciones en la TV para la difusión del evento; Saúl Caipani por su mejor predisposición con la organización especialmente con el equipo de sonido y animación; Edgar Rayme por el soporte informático y la elaboración de la pagina web; Alfredo Zúñiga por sus esfuerzos equipando las vías y por la asistencia a los auspiciadores; Jorge Sirvas por ayudarnos con la donación de chapas y a conseguir premios y los trofeos; Yerson Venero por colaborar con el transporte y la toma de fotos y videos de todo el evento; Mitsy Díaz por sus bocaditos del día de la conferencia de prensa y colaborando el día de la competencia junto a Dana; Omar por permanecer colgado toda la mañana para tener las mejores fotografías “desde arriba”; Vania por su ayuda durante el proceso de publicidad; Isabel Champi, Oscar, Arístides por su colaboración el día del evento y en general a todos los miembros del Club de Andinismo Cusco.

La historia no termina aquí, sino es el comienzo, el siguiente año esperamos contar con todos ustedes en el CAMPEONATO INTERNACIONAL PACHAR 2010.

Images:

1) The Plaza de Armas from the Baghdad Cafe and how the average tourist sees the view

2) A notorious bar, now closed, on the corner of the square

I first visited the former capital of the Inca Empire in 1979 and last strolled its precincts in April of this year.  A lot of water since then has passed under the proverbial bridge – or in this case under the main plaza, where a network of tunnels and pools exists under the main square of the city.

3) The Cathedral: In decades past, tourists were frequently denied entry

Cuzco has experienced an overwhelming history of brutality and conquest ever since the first Quechuas found the valley, the legends recounting how they plunged a staff into the ground and it sprouted forth as a sprig of corn or wheat , thus divining that this was the locale where the wandering  tribe should congregate and build their capital.  They called it the Navel of the Earth.  The islanders of Rapa Nui referred to their homeland with the same term, as did the original builders of Tiwanuku and a variety of other cultures around the world.  How many navels does the world possess?  Apparently quite a few.  Perhaps each old culture that spoke of their homeland in this fashion made only an allegorical statement.  But I hear the ring of truth.

After tearing the gold sheathing from the walls of the Coricancha and melting down the golden garden in front of the sacred temple, the conquistadors settled into a pattern of garroting their enemies in the Plaza de Armas, just to show the locals who was boss.  A fight at the fortress at Sacsayhuaman above the city secured their control of Cuzco Valley.  Even the infighting among the Spaniards, ultimately resulting in the death of Pizarro in Lima, did not break their hold on the new colony that contained unspeakable wealth.

The original murder of Atahuallpa in Cajamarca began the Spanish conquest after the Incas filled a room with gold to try and save their leader’s life.  Further battles at Ollantaytambo – where the Incas won a battle for their cause – and the final revolt at Vilcabamba only secured the Europeans’s eventual victory.  The Spanish survived and thrived after exhibiting appalling behavior, at least in the short-term.

Scientists tell us the original city plan was laid out in the form of a puma.  But this theory is rather like an inkblot test; the observer sees what he or she wants to see.  Drawings of the city plans remind me more of a tapir, but that animal lacks the sexiness of a big cat, so we’ll agree with the savants that the Incas were thinking pumas, not giant rodents, when they built their metropolis.

Nowadays Cuzco is a kind of amusement park, where tourists wander the streets, admiring the stone foundations of the original builders.   Remarkably, the biggest stones show a workmanship quite different from that normally ascribed to the later Incas.  Huge multi-angled blocks, impossibly shaped into geometric forms, line the walls of the streets of the San Blas district, while more prosaic stonework connects the Plaza de Armas to the Coricancha.  Who built what? we might ask.  As for the Coricancha, one fact is clear. Its walls have survived every earthquake in modern times, while the Dominican church built atop the fortifications crumble with every tremor of the Earth, and the church has been constantly re-built after devastating earthquakes.  So much for the superiority of modern construction methods.

Yet as the visitor walks through the Plaza de Armas, the old vibes are still powerful.  This place was a gathering point for the masses, from the original Native American inhabitants who displayed the mummified bodies of their former rulers, to the current crop of Catholic fiesta celebrants who parade bizarre statues of the Virgin  through the streets during Easter Week.  This year I briefly watched one of these processions.  The sight was underwhelming.  I spent most of the occasion with both hands thrust into my pockets to ward off pickpockets, of which Cuzco boasts huge numbers.  In fact, if you visit the market area, the locals constantly play tricks on the tourists, dumping refuse or worse on their persons in order to distract them, while accomplices efficiently fleece the well-lined foreign pockets.  Excellent techniques and very rewarding for those who practice this impromptu form of wealth redistribution.

During the 1960s you could wander the ruins of Sacsayhuaman completely unmolested.  Now, similar to the crowd control practiced at Machu Picchu, guards blow whistles at visitors foolish enough to step into the roped-off areas to investigate unusual features – most notably the great zodiac or sundial at the edge of the cliff that drops toward Cuzco’s center.  A real buzz killer, to use modern vernacular.

Despite the negativity, going to Cuzco is an honor, a privilege, and an obligation to all those who wish to experience the interplay of cultures and see the results of exploitation and imperialism.  Inside the Cathedral on the main square stands an alter fashioned from solid silver, obscene in its gaudy proclamation of stolen wealth.  Innumerable and priceless paintings from the famous Cuzco School line the church’s dark stone walls.  Here material and political power scream at the observer, gloating at the conquest of a civilization that was once more advanced than any society Europe achieved.

Too bad the Incas never invented firearms.  Maybe history would have turned out differently, and instead of poor peasants hunched over massive loads of goods, hauling them into the city for sale, or old Native American women laying antique weavings on street corners for visitors to buy at ridiculously low prices, artworks that incorporate the ancient Peruvian  form of communication and writing, we’d see illegal Spanish immigrants begging for work outside hardware stores and construction sites,  just as their distant cousins are obliged to do at the Home Depots and WalMarts of North America.  Now that would be justice.

Cusco é realmente uma cidade de back-packers!

Por Roberto Falcão

Os europeus quando vêm à América Latina já pensam logo em Machu Pichu, pois todos os guias de viagem indicam como um dos principais destinos de nosso continente.

De fato, se considerarmos o custo, ligado ao interesse cultural e vida noturna agitada podemos igualar essa região à Ásia e Oriente Médio. É muito impressionante a concentração de ruínas da civilização inca ao redor de Cusco.

Fazendo um passeio de ônibus ou táxi (que são super econômicos para se fazer um passeio de um dia – US$ 15 por pessoa, em quatro pessoas), pode-se conhecer as principais ruínas em um dia – como Sachsayuaman, Ollaytaitambo, Piquillacta, Pisac (e seus mercados) e outras.

Guarde um dia para fazer um rafting ou algum esporte radical. Fiz o rafting do vale sagrado do Rio Urubamba. É impressionante estar descendo um rio que outrora foi a veia mestra do império Inca.

Conversando com o guia/motorista de táxi, ele nos explicou em que se baseava a cultura inca. A história do povo é muito rica e essa região preserva a música, comida e artesanato dos incas. Coma pelo menos um dia em um mercado inca! A comida é ruim, mas custa só US$ 1 o PF. O passeio de Machu Pichu e a Trilha Inca são os mais famosos.

Procure uma agência para ajudar a organizar essa excursão. Para os preguiçosos (que foi o meu caso) pegue o trem que sai pela manhã e chega após o almoço em Águas Calientes (vila próxima a Machu Pichu). A volta é normalmente no trem de 6h da manhã, que fica muito cheio! Esteja cedinho na estação e tenha paciência…

Ao chegar em Machu Pichu, não deixe de subir até o cume do Waina Pichu. Agora parece que você é obrigado a tomar o trem dos turistas, a não ser que vá de van até alguma cidadezinha no meio do caminho e tome o trem local em seguida!

A área de Machu Pichu é um parque Nacional e tem hora para abrir e fechar. Verifique os horários do parque. Passe pelo menos uma noite em Águas Calientes, para curtir um pouco da atmosfera local. Se quiser, visite as ruínas durante dois dias, vale a pena explorá-las bem.

Eu vivenciei uma experiência esotérica de leitura da sorte nas folhas de coca, por uma índia do interior. Outro dia fui a Pisac para participar de um mercado que deve ser realizado desde os tempos dos incas…

Last week marked the abrupt and unexpected end to my adventures in Puerto Maldonado.  After meeting another interesting and enthusiastic group of visitors and holding another successful educatioinal program, it was difficult to leave CECCOT, even more difficult to leave new friends (Rosemary, Wendy, Ruth, Kenny, Eder, Luis and Noe) and old (Lee).  However, I’ve always been told to take every opportunity that comes my way, advice that has taught me much about and taken me many places in life, so when the opportunity arose to work with the aforementioned school in Urubamba, well, I couldn’t pass it up.  I hope to learn from Javier and his incredible group of volunteers and teachers in order to apply their methods in Puerto where they are needed. 

I am confident that the efforts that we have put forth toward CECCOT will not be lost and I look forward to returning in the future to see the potential changes and growth of such a small, yet noble, organization.  While looking back through photos of my arrival, I could not believe the drastic changes that have occured in the past, rapidly passing months, none of which would have been possible without such an incredible group of people.  Gracias to all of my new friends and psuedo family, I miss you already and can’t wait to see you again…I’m crossing my fingers that it’s sooner rather than later.

19.October:
We arrived Cuzco from Lima after a night at the airprt and no sleep. We checked into hostal Girasoles at 9am. Slept till 1pm. Had a walk in the beautiful city centre and went to the Peru Trek office to pay the rest of our Inca Trail trip. At the office we also got a short briefing of one of their guides, a guy with some breathing issues, making it hard to understand what he was trying to communicate.

We paid 15 soles (ca. 30 NOK) extra for a sleeping each, but opted out for an extra porter to carry six kilos of our luggage. After looking at some cameras to replace the camera we lost at Galápogos and getting some snacks for the Inca Trail, we headed back to the hostel.

Back the hostel we reunited with Nicole and Robyn who we met at the Rumba Yacht at the Galápogos! We then headed off together for a tasty dinner. We had some drinks and went out to get some first hand exerience of the Cuzco nightlife..

(pics from dinner place and pre-party)

The immense yet intricate masonry of the Inca sacred site Sacsayhuaman, on the outskirts of Cuzco, Peru.

The unfinished look to the tops of the walls show where the Spaniards took stone to build their own religious structures in the newly conquered Inca capital of Cuzco.

I’ve been in Cusco for about four days now. Mostly I have just been hanging out, waiting for Dad to arrive (tomorrow!!) and trying to find a company to go on our trek to Machu Picchu with. We finally settled on the Lares trek with Q’ente, mostly because they were the only company that had a trek going on the date we have to go.

Aside from that, I’ve spent some time walking around the city, visiting a couple museums (the Inca Museum is kind of cool, has some really cool mummies, but is otherwise a bit overrated), and went on a day tour of the Sacred Valley. I’ll put up pics and more of an update about that a bit later.

I really didn’t like Cusco at first. It’s a really touristy city, and people are always in your face trying to shove flyers for massages or restaurants or tours at you. But my first day I was also really tired (hadn’t slept at all on my night bus that arrived at like six in the morning) and it was a really gray day (it’s rainy season so it often gets a bit gray and sometimes sprinkles and rains on and off in short bits throughout the day). Also I was a bit stressed looking for a good trekking company, and it all kind of reflected badly on Cusco.

Now my perceptions have changed. Cusco has a different kind of beauty and appeal than Arequipa. It’s a more old and historic beauty. Cathedrals and colonial buildings built on top of old Inca ruins. There’s reminders of the Inca everywhere, old Inca walls and streets, etc. But getting out and seeing the city in the sunshine definitely makes it more beautiful. And I have incredible views from my hostel as well.

The other good thing about Cusco is that it’s hard to be lonely here. I’m staying in Loki hostel, which is a really infamous hostel in South America, especially in Peru/Cusco. There’s always a ton of people around, and even a great deal of Americans which it’s been a while since I’ve seen. I’ve met a lot of really cool people and have had people to hang out or go out with every day. It’s been a really nice change after a more lonely chunk of my trip, where I only seemed to meet cool people the day before one of us was leaving (here, at least, most people stay for quite a while).

All in all I’ve found that I went from seriously disliking Cusco to having a really great time here. And of course I’m really excited for Dad to arrive and to go do some trekking and finally see Machu Picchu!

Again, I will add another post or update this one with some pictures and more details later.

Accomodation: Loki Hostel – 23 soles (about $8) for the biggest dorm – Lives up to its reputation. Loki is a really great place to hang out, to meet people, to have a good time. No real complaints, except that the wifi is pretty terrible. And of course that you’re bound to spend way more money than you intend because you put every meal and drink on your room tab!

Selling sweets on the streets of Cuzco, Peru.