We’ve had the CX Pro‘s for a week or two now and I’ve been busy in the Tribeca Sport workshop modifying bits and bobs to give us the best machinery available. On my own bike I’ve tried several different front chainring set-ups and have settled upon a 39-46T for most races, whilst on the guest bike we’ll be running a compact crank with a much bigger range to suit more riders. Paul and Crissy have both ridden this and felt that it worked well for both fast rides and more technical singletrack.

On the tyre front Pete has stuck to his favourite Hutchinson combo whist I’ve plumbed for a mix of Schwalbe’s best rubber – CX Pro’s for the spare/wet bike and Ralph’s for the main bike. We’ve really got to spend a bit more time this weekend and in the evenings playing with different pressures to see what works.

The Avid BB7 brakes have performed much better than I’d imagined and apart from some squeal are all but worn in now. The leap to SRAM Force has taken a bit of getting used to – I’m still not sure if I’d like to trade it in for Ultegra, but I’m going to give it a few weeks first to see if I warm to it. The levers still seem quite clunky and the reach is pretty long – not a problem when you’re fresh, but toward the end of a ‘cross battle they could slow things down I reckon. We’ll do a race or two and then see.

All in all we’ve had a great first week with me, Crissy, Paul and Pete all getting out and testing the bikes. We should have a cracking weekend test again this week with riders meeting at Bedgebury on Sunday. Message me if you’re interested at glen@tribecasport.co.uk

All of the bikes will be serviced by THE.ÆIGHT.BICYCLE.CØMPANY at Tribeca Sport with kit and bike fits from Bike Science. Bikes and team rides are still available so if you’re interested you should contact Glen via glen@tribecasport.co.uk for more details. They have several packages to suit you as well as a full range of bikes, servicing and bike fitting in their shop in Southborough, Tunbridge Wells.

-THE.8.RAC3R

WWW.8RACER.WORDPRESS.COM

THE.8.RAC3R.APPEARS.COURTESY.OF.THE.ÆIGHT.BICYCLE.CØMPANY

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Anne and Paul with very artsy lantern backdrop in Hoi An

I could never be accused of being a detailed oriented person…but that fact was glaringly obvious during the visit of my artist sister-in-law, Anne. How eye-opening to see Saigon through her connoisseur eyes. How many times have I walked past the vertical garden on Hai Ba Trung without observing so many of its characteristics? Or how could I have passed a mural on countless occasions without ever knowing it existed? Every day of her visit, she admired something that I had not noticed before. Besides the traditional galleries and artists, Anne also discovered admirable art in gardens, architecture, massage, food, kite-making, silk worms and even geckos. Yours truly learned a few things along the way. I was even the beneficiary of a one-on-one Photoshop tutorial with this creative spirit!

We are surrounded by inspirational objets d’art in our everyday life. Time for me to slow down and take more notice:

What is not Art

►

On a personal note, it was terrific spending this amazing time with Anne. Although we have always clicked, being able to share fun and Vietnam with her was priceless. If you want to learn more about the art of Anne Boudreau, check out her ethereal mixed media sculptures and collages on her website.

But, when girlfriend put on her artist-designed moto mask, I knew it was time to send her home! Saigon LOVE to you, Annie!

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Around the streets of George Town he has placed six of his wonderful works, the last, a giant mural of one of the much loved cyclo riders of George Town.

Ernest Zacharevic art.

You can see the rest of his work at our previous blog Street Art 5.

http://asiadreaming.wordpress.com/2012/07/13/street-art-5/

http://wp.me/p25xC7-dY

—————————————————————————————————————————-

All photos copyright Ross Duncan: rossduncan@mail.com

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It is Possible to Have a Water Run Car?

Yeah, we’ve all should of heard it by now. It is possible to drive a car running on water? Except this doesn’t run only on water, it’s a hybrid of water and gas.

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I sometimes point them toward one of the city’s grandly conceived buildings – you know the type: vaulted ceiling, entrance fee, souvenir shop – but more often than not, my recommendation runs along much humbler lines, or should I say, wheels.

Practical, eco-friendly and as Vietnamese as any conical hat or a bowl of pho, the simple cyclo is one of those leftover relics of history that seems to be increasingly overlooked.

From my office window, I often glimpse the cyclo drivers napping or reading the paper on the sidewalks of Lam Son Square below. In the cooler hours of the day, it’s not unusual to see a procession of camera-toting tourists being pedaled down Dong Khoi Street.

The offspring of the two-wheeled pulled rickshaws that came to the country in the late 1930s (think of the outdoor scenes from the movie The Lover), Vietnam’s current three-wheeled bicycle-powered cyclos vary in height and width from city to city.

Used for transporting everything from building materials to brides, the cyclo enjoyed a few glorious years as Vietnam’s main means of inner-city transport during the 1950s and 60s, before it was eclipsed by the faster, more fashionable motorcycle.

But for at least one day every year, the faithful cyclo gets to be the hero of the city again, during the annual Saigon Cyclo Challenge.

Early last month, on a newly built promenade bordered by a line of palm trees and a small pond, the Caravelle’s four-man team captured the silver medal in the world’s only cyclo race.

Organized by the Saigon Children’s Charity, more than 1,000 people came out on March 10 to watch 10 local teams race their cyclos outside the Crescent Mall in District 7.

Earlier in February the Caravelle sponsored a press conference for the race that was well attended by the local media. On the day of the event, pedaling those cyclos in the stifling heat, even without passengers, was backbreaking work for our racers, who took at least one spill on the track.

But in the end, I couldn’t have been prouder of the hotel’s team. Even though we didn’t get to taste the winners’ champagne, we were part of an event that raised US$41,500 for a good cause.

 Afterwards, one of the drivers who troll for fares outside the Caravelle shared some of his story.

Over a mug of café sua da, Nguyen Van Son, aged 45, told me he started with his first rented cyclo 20 years ago, after spending three years fighting in the Vietnamese army.

Two decades later, Son has been through 10 cyclos, none of which he has owned. He pays VND1.5 million a month to rent the vehicle that he pedals for about 80 km, from sunup to sundown, seven days a week. Ten dollars, or VND200,000 an hour, is his minimum fee for giving visitors tours around District 1 and 3.

 Son remembers the days when there were as many as 5,000 cyclo drivers in the city. Today he estimates only about one-fifth of that number remain, while the number of people on the city’s streets seems to have doubled.

Other changes he points out are the big buildings and hotels, new roads and bridges – which didn’t exist when he started as a cyclo driver. Son emphasizes that the life of a cyclo driver is very hard, but with a wife and five children, he sees it as his only option.

After this rather melancholy exchange, my thoughts turned to the future of this slowly dying profession, and then back to my first cyclo ride.

I remember feeling overtaken by everything else on the road, but soon quit mentally urging the driver forward, and realized that at that pace, there was time to see everything.

I took in the river breeze together with the old houses and enormous trees, and started looking, really looking, at the street life, the people in the alleys, the food on display.

All these little memories come back when guests, a little disoriented but excited by their first visit to Saigon, ask what they absolutely must do before leaving. I know just what to tell them.

The route was new this year and was not quite up to the standard of the one I rode in 2008 as the local municipalities were not too keen on the ride and it had to be rerouted. This meant a long flat section from about the 40 to 110km mark, but it just meant we rode in a big bunch once we hit the headwind. Still, riding near Liege is challenging nevertheless due to the horrendous Belgian pothole gardens they call roads and the short sharp climbs they have there, which made for a tough final stretch. I luckily got no cramps this time (I think the hydrating tip I got really sorted out my cramping: isotonic fuelling as much as possible. Works for me!) and actually felt good on the climbs and managed to pose like a pro for the photos. Nothing induces a power surge like a long lense lurking in the distance!

In the end I managed to just creep into the top half of the results. Not a great performance, but it doesn’t matter, on the certificate I got it had two things that mattered; a photo of a charging Eddy Merckx and a simple four-letter word: GOLD.

All-in- all a great day out and a nice way to prepare for the Marmotte. Two weeks and counting…

GPS file of the ride is on Strava: GF Eddy Mercks GPS details

Leaving Hoi An behind we head again into the mountains, and this time through some beautiful coastal passes. This journey follows the route made famous by Top Gear, unfortunately we had a misty start to the morning so did not get the chance to appreciate the views out to sea from the highest point, but the mountains were lovely, with white flowering morning glory covering the undergrowth and dripping from the trees. We passed close to the sea through fishing villages and stilt houses in the shallows. Every so often we drove over piles of bicycle tyres strewn across the road, and later discovered these are used to farm some sort of shellfish, possibly mussels, they grow on the tyres, are then harvested and the tyres thrown across the road so passing vehicles drive over them to break off the remaining debris before they are reused.

We stopped at a beach for a long lunch, the usual bread and cheese, and ‘a few prawns’, well the seafood just kept coming, plate after plate of fresh cooked prawns, stuffed squid, seafood fried rice, no matter how many times the lad was sent back to the kitchen to say ‘no more’ it just kept on coming. Not being a seafood eater my highlight was walking up the beach to watch the water buffalo taking a break from the construction work for a well earned dip in the sea. Just fabulous! (hopefully the clip will upload here so you can see for yourselves)

Leaving the beach we headed to the airport at Phu Bai, a former military airbase, Said goodbye to our jeeps and the mechanics and caught our flight to Ho Chi Minh City, formerly Saigon.

Back to the hustle and bustle and risking our lives every time we crossed the road.

Day 14 started with a Cyclo tour of HCM, I started in the second group of Cyclos, but being relatively light and having the youngest driver I was soon being pedalled through the traffic at some speed to arrive at the first stop in second place! During the morning we visited the War Remnants Museum, called something very different, and less politically correct, up to a few years ago. It was an excellent museum which handled the war in a more neutral manner than most we had visited, with many photographic displays of both the horrors of war, some more tender moments, the after effects and the beginnings of recovery of the areas hit. The display on Agent Orange took some courage to go into, with pictures and stories of the horrendous deformities caused by the defoliation chemical and the continued problems being passed from generation to generation of those caught by it. It was one of the most harrowing parts of the trip but something I felt needed to be seen, it’s unbelievable what one human being can do to another.

Moving on we visited the Presidential Palace, a snap from the 1970′s and no thing of beauty in my eyes, then on to the Old French Post Office, which had lovely architecture and a certain charm, from there it was a short walk to The Rex, the iconic hotel where war correspondents met every Friday for ‘Friday’s Follies’ where it appears stories about the war were made up to put into the papers back home. The roof terrace was a great spot for a long cool drink after all that rushing about, giving us just enough of a recharge to face a visit to the local market before heading to our good bye dinner at the fabulous Temple Club, not easy to find but if you are ever in HCM and stumble across it do go in. All you see from the street is a dark doorway, but follow the candlelit passage through to a dark, atmospheric bar and a restaurant serving fantastic food. At the end of a huge meal Steve presented all the boys with a copy of their number plates from the jeeps we were driving, a fantastic souvenir, whilst the ladies were given a great reminder of the markets of Vietnam … A ‘Rolex’!

So the first part of our trip draws to an end, and what a amazing experience it has been, beautiful scenery, great company, high temperatures, hustle, bustle and general chaos but organised just enough to know you are in safe hands without the drag of being just another tourist starring at the world through a coach window, not that there were many of those on our route. A fabulous 10 days and a huge ‘hats off’ to Steve from Classic Car Journeys, Cuong and the team for making it so enjoyable, all we have to do now is start saving for the next exciting destination, once we get home.

So some of the first Westerners to drive Vietnamese vehicles in Vietnam, without ‘buying’ a driving licence have made it safely to the end of their trip!

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Electrolux – ZB2904X – Balais – Ergorapido – Balai sans Sac – Cyclo + 2 en1 – Cuivre Descriptions du produit

Ergorapido cyclonic 2 en 1 plus, efficace et indispensable pour les nettoyages rapides au quotidien.Sans fil et sans sac, Ergorapido est l’aspirateur balai rechargeable le plus vendu. Il est désormais reconnu indispensable et incontournable.Son design élégant multiprimé s’intègre à tous les styles d’intérieur.Avec ses batteries Lithium, il est encore plus efficace (20% d’aspiration en plus) et peut s’utiliser plus longtemps (jusqu’à 30 minutes). La charge est aussi plus rapide (4 heures)… En savoir plus >>

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AIRPORTS AND TERMINALS

My 1^st time to travel Cebu Pacific internationally and after the “Thrilla in Naia” … and the many warnings from friends, I think I came equipped and prepared. Each time I travel outside, I get myself a travel insurance in cases of delayed flights, lost baggage, hospitalization and even other untoward incidents.  This is for only Php 228.00 (Chartis Philippines Insurance Inc)   - peace of mind for an OC like me.  Be there 3 hours before the flight and make sure you are at the gates during the boarding time or the risk of not being accepted if you are a minute late.  Prepare Php 1620 for travel tax and Php 550 for terminal fee. Of course when flying Cebu Pac on a promo fare be prepared to pay everything from baggage to seat to insurance, etc.  No meals inside the plane unless you will buy from them.  Be prepared also to move from one gate to another … happened to us twice this time.  Aside from the change in gate … my Cebu Pac experience is superb. Staffs are nice and accommodating. Never late … even earlier. I can never forget their legacy to us Filipinos – everyone flies – because it was made affordable and the market has been very competitive ever since and for travel enthusiasts like me – this is a milestone and a gift.

Cebu pacific Gate 109

It is fairly easy to get off the Tan Son Nhat Airport in fact there is no Immigration Card issued on the plane. Through the immigration courtesy check booths and directly in front, baggage can be claimed at the lower level via the escalator.

Even before I go to Vietnam, I wanted to have Vietnamese Dong with me in case the hotel failed to fetch me ( which they did) just to have a money for the taxi.  Lo and behold – none of our money exchange establishment even as big as Sanry’s and Czarina’s … and even banks such BPI – will change your peso or dollars to VND. It will be wise to see who went there and offer to change their VND to peso.  Not even our very own airport exchanges USD to VND.  When you arrive in Vietnam, even how late or early it is … there is a money changer.  The exchange rate is fairly reasonable … and the fact of the matter is … you simply had to. The exchange in the airport may charge a commission as high as 3% but for me, it doesn’t matter really as long as I have VND with me.

I have been warned so many times on how bad Vietnam is … too many rude people who will rip you off your money and belongings even.  I had to be thankful for this … but my experience is a lot better (with much prayers and caution) … I had been known to be as detailed as possible in trips … and I wouldn’t have it any other way.

And yes, my hotel failed to fetch me … why am I not surprised! Outside the airport there too many people offering everything from hotels to taxis … just don’t talk to them and act as if you are in a familiar territory.  Ask from the airport officials, the ones in brown. Since it is not an English speaking country , have a paper or small notebook  and  ball pen ready to write instead of talk … and it will help you if you will print this blog . You can underline the words that you wanted to ask. Get the map at the airport -  you will  receive a free ‘VN Trip Map – for travel and coupons’ by Vietnamese women wearing the traditional ao dai dress as you are leaving or if there is none, in your hotel or in any Saigon Tourist Center.

TAXIS

This is important because there are taxi companies that can rip you off. In the airport go to Bay 3 that is on the left side of the airport and ask an officer that you want to ride a VINASUN or Mai Linh taxi.  You will then be asked to talk to the person in charge in dark green (they are all over the city w/ the name Vinasun on their necktie).  I can only vouch for Vinasun though. Never ridden any other taxi. Always point to the meter before the ride starts so they will use it, never bargain.  Have the complete address of your hotel written in your small notebook and just show it to the taxi warden in green and show it again to the driver. 

Vinasun Taxi

Mai Linh taxi

Caution: Some gangster taxi group will change the spelling a bit to lure you (know your spelling)  – VinasOn or VinasuM instead of VinaSUN, MEi Linh or Mai Lin or M Taxi.  Various over-price scams target foreigners in particular, usually involving eager touts who will try to get a hold of your luggage. A dishonest driver might start driving without starting the meter, and demand a high fare or try to negotiate for a fixed price at a location where it’s difficult for a tourist to hire another cab.  Taxi drivers earn commission by taking customers to certain hotels, so be explicit about exactly which hotel you want to be driven. To trick visitors into staying at other (commission paying) hotels, drivers may come up with any kind of excuses, e.g., “no vacancy”, “that hotel burned down recently” and similar stories. So have yourself booked … AGODA is highly recommended if you using an on-line booking. Just print the Hotel Voucher and show it to the hotel.  Safe and dependable.

Getting around the city can be by foot, bus, taxi, motorbike  or a ride on a cyclo, which is sort of akin to a reverse tricycle with the passenger sitting in a front seat, through downtown HCMC is a great way to see the city the way the locals do. But I just don’t have the heart to try this. 

Caution: Be careful with your cameras and bags while walking . There are also unscrupulous locals who can get pass you and get your valuables while driving their motorbikes.

Crossing in Saigon  can be a nightmare. It is always scary, for some they will get used to it quite quickly. If ever in doubt, Saigon’s Tourist Security  officers (guys in marked green uniforms) will happily help you across or answer your questions. They made me change my mind about Saigon because of their courtesy and helpfulness.  A quicker way of getting across is to simply follow the lead of a local crossing the street. Never hesitate when crossing so that the drivers can read your moves. Remember, Vietnamese people value life very much as well and they regard killing another as bad luck .

No Traffic Lights

The Bicycle in Front of Motorcycles

LANGUAGE

This is tough … they can’t understand you or you can’t understand them. Use the small notepad or calculator when shopping.

Hello: Sin Chao\ Excuse Me, Sorry: Sin Lao\ What is this/that?: Die La Kai Gee \Thank You: Come Ong \Very Good: Ra Tot\ Bye: Tam Byet

PLACE TO STAY

Depending on the budget and the purpose of the stay … there are numerous hotels and inns in Vietnam.  I saw the Sheraton, Intercon, Sofitel etc for  the 5 star experience. There are 3 Star hotels that can cater to your basic need – sleep and bath.   There are also backpacker’s inns available.

We stayed at Thien Xuan Hotel – and I can recommend this – the room is on sale in Agoda.  This is centrally located in the business and commercial district . This is 30 meters away from Ben Thanh Market, 20 minutes away from the airport, 10 minutes away from Reunification Palace and 15 minutes away from Notre Dame.

Entrance Thien Xuan Hotel

Reception

They provide good breakfast and a clean place to sleep.  They  can also accommodate 3 pax in a room.  The staffs are nice and try very hard to please the customer.  For me, this is a good thing.  They always try to warn you about not taking your passports while shopping or providing a Vinasun taxi to take you anywhere. You can also ask questions that they tried very hard to answer … again with the small notebook in hand.

PLACES TO SEE

My trip to Saigon is not to see the tourist spots or immerse myself in the war tours. It is simply a food trip but  here are a few that you can see :

REUNIFICATION PALACE (Di Tich Lich Su Dinh Doc Lap) . Entrance is at  135 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia Street. Open daily 7:30AM-11:00AM, 1PM-4PM. Also known as Independence Palace (this is the old name). This has been restored and it is like walking in the time warp to the 60s. This was formerly South Vietnam’s presidential palace … the war ended on April 30, 1975 when tank #843 crashed through the gate. A replica of that tank is now parked on the lawn outside.  

REUNIFICATION PALACE

The Gate

The war ended on April 30, 1975 when tank #843 crashed through the gate. This is a replica of that tank .

Be sure to check out the recreation room, featuring a circular sofa, and the eerie basement, full of vintage 1960s phones, radios, and office equipment, supposedly left exactly as it was found when the North took over. There is also a photo gallery and a propaganda film recounting how the South Vietnamese supporters and American imperialists succumbed to Ho Chi Minh’s indomitable revolutionary forces, upon which point the South Vietnamese supporters were forgiven and everyone lived happily ever after. Tour guides are available and are free if there are ones available. Entrance Fee is  30,000 VND.  Since I am not a  fan of Vietnam War … I can do away with this.  This is just like touring the Malacanang of the North.

Dancing Floor

Banquet Room

Caution: Bring towel or fan or a bottle of cold mineral water. This can be a very hot and humid tour. It can be suffocating.   If you are allergic to musty smell, skip this.   Whatever you like in their shop, buy it specially the replicas because you won’t find it anywhere else.   

TAO DAN PARK – this is the park from the Palace to the Notre Dame where you can rest and watch the locals eat and date.

TAO DAN PARK

A Local Praying the Rosary in the Park

SAIGON NOTRE-DAME officially Basilica of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception is just a 5 minute-walk from the Reunification Palace. Han Thuyen Street, facing down Dong Khoi (next to the Post Office). Closes at 11AM  and on weekends. A French-built Catholic cathedral in the city centre. All building materials were imported from France. This was finished in 1880.  The outside wall of the cathedral was built with bricks from Marseille.Tiles have been carved with the words Guichard Carvin, Marseille St André France (perhaps stating the locality where the tiles were produced). Some tiles are carved with the words “Wang-Tai Saigon”. Many tiles have since been made in Ho Chi Minh City to replace the tiles that were damaged by the war. There are 56 glass squares supplied by the Lorin firm of Chartres province in France. The cathedral foundation was designed to bear ten times the weight of the cathedral.

SAIGON NOTRE-DAME

In 1959, Bishop Joseph Pham Van Thien, whose jurisdiction included Saigon parish, attended the Holy Mother Congress held in Vatican and ordered a Peaceful Notre Dame statue made with granite in Rome. When the statue arrived in Saigon on 16 February 1959, Bishop Pham Van Thien held a ceremony to install the statue on the empty base and presented the title of “Regina Pacis”.

“Regina Pacis”

Trivia: During October 2005, the statue was reported to have shed tears, attracting thousands of people and forcing authorities to stop traffic around the Cathedral. However, the top clergy of the Catholic Church in Vietnam confirmed that the Virgin Mary statue in front of a cathedral did not shed tears, which nevertheless failed to disperse the crowd flocking to the statue days after the incident. The reported ‘tear’ flowed down the right cheek of the face of the statue.

SAIGON CENTRAL POST OFFICE is a post office near Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica. The building was constructed when Vietnam was part of French Indochina in the early 20th century. It has a Gothic architectural style. It was designed and constructed by the famous architect Gustave Eiffel in harmony with the surrounding area. This is where Nicole’s parents met and fell in love.

SAIGON CENTRAL POST OFFICE

Foodie Notes: It is enchanting to drink coffee on the shops located in the vicinity like Coffee Beanery , NYC  Dessert Cafe  or May Coffee.  It is surrounding yourself with Europe’s architectural wonders and Saigon’s coffee experience.

NYC Dessert Cafe

CITY HALL, end of Nguyen Hue Street. Originally called the Hôtel de Ville and now formally re-branded the PEOPLE’S COMMITTEE HALL, it’s a striking cream and yellow French colonial building beautifully floodlit at night. No entry, but the statue of Uncle Ho in front is a very popular place for photos.

PEOPLE’S COMMITTEE HALL

SAIGON OPERA HOUSE was built in 1897 by French architect Ferret Eugene, the 800 seat building was used as the home of the Lower House assembly of South Vietnam after 1956. It was not until 1975 that it was again used as a theatre, and restored in 1995. Shaped like the Opera Garnier in Paris. The façade is shaped like the Petit Palais which was built in the same year in France.

SAIGON OPERA HOUSE

SHOPPING

CHợ BếN THÀNH AKA BEN THANH MARKET – recognizable because of the big clock tower on a large traffic circle.  This is divided into 2 – wet and dry market (for souvenirs). This is trap for tourist – know the price. Home of home decors made of lacquer, Khai Silk, etc.  They mark up their prices up to 100%. Don your haggling caps. While some sellers are rude, there are also nice ones. Call them friend and get discounts.  They know words like ganda, mura , etc.

BEN THANH MARKET

Top View of BTM

Shopping Tip: If you have the luxury of time, browse over 1^st , ask the price so the you will know the range.  If you haggle, make sure you will buy it or you will hear nasty things (that you don’t understand, anyway).  It is also very helpful to carry with you a printed conversion table (VND to Phil Peso) because the decimals are too much that it gets so complicated.  Bring a shopping bag so you can place all your loot in one container. Be wary. It is better to be paranoid or get yourself robbed in a foreign country.

For coffee and other food items, I would suggest that you go to supermarkets for a better deal.  Cheapest is that one from Thuong Xa Tax in 135 Nguyen Hue, Dist 1 called Sheu Thi Tax . There is also a supermarket in  Vincom Center called Select.

NIGHT MARKET (just outside of Ben Thanh Market). Open from 6pm-12mn (when the Ben Thanh Market closes).  The 2 major streets surrounding BTM are full of stuff that you can buy. You can also eat here.

SAIGON SQUARE – this is a better shopping alternative- opens at 9am to 9pm – air-conditioned bazaar place. Nice place for clothes and bags.

SAIGON SQUARE

CHợ BÌNH TÂY in the Chinatown – they said the cheapest in prices but I never get to see this.

VINCOM CENTER – Jimmy Choo, Armani, Mango, Zara, Versace, Swarovski, Make Up Forever, Furla, Just Cavalli, Shoebox New York, Replay, Karen Millen, Face Shop, Yves Rocher, Orlane & Annayake, Debenhams, Gap, UCB, Vera, Charles & Keith,

VINCOM CENTER

PARKSON – in front of Vincom Center – Guerlain, Coach

PARKSON

DIAMOND PLAZA – near Notre Dame , home of Omega

DIAMOND PLAZA

REX ARCADE  – Chanel, Ferragamo, Rolex

REX ARCADE

The LOUIS VUITTON STORE is located 161 Dong Khoi Street, District 1, Ho Chi Minh City.

LOUIS VUITTON STORE

SAIGON CENTRE -  don’t mistake this for Saigon Square . Mango , Nine West, FCUK, Nha Xinh

SAIGON CENTRE

FOODIE @ WORK

My journey took me to Saigon … home of the Pho, spring roll and coffee.  General rule of thumb is – a local Vietnamese do not necessarily have to eat anything worth over VND 50,000 (Php 101.00)  on a good meal.

 SIDE STREET OF LE THANH TON

Pho Bo ( Beef Noodle Soup)  - My best Vietnamese Beef Pho (soup) which I found on the side street in the Le Thanh Ton corner Ph B. Chau (just below Song Anh Hotel  right across Ben Thanh Market in front of Noa Hang Mon Hue) … but let me warn you …. this place isn’t what you can call decent. It is one of those street food places that spring after the establishment closes (a jewelry store).  They have small chairs and tables (like the ones used by kids – plastic type).  The food is cooked in the food cart. Since it is near the market, it is not so sanitary looking and the smell isn’t of the peppermint aroma therapy level.   We saw a rat in fact. But this is Ra Tot! After tasting more than my year’s quota of Pho – I can rightfully say this. But this is quite expensive for a street food – VND 40,000. This price is for mid-budget Pho in a good restaurant already.  After eating this – I never had a stomach upset or anything – so this must have been boiled well to get rid of the unwanted elements. Soft drinks (the country is more of Pepsi products than Coke ) : VND 10,000

The Best Pho Bo found on the side street in the Le Thanh Ton corner Ph B. Chau , HCMC

Trivia: Phở is served in a bowl with a specific cut of white rice noodles (called bánh phở’) in clear beef broth, with slim cuts of beef (steak, fatty flank, lean flank, brisket). The broth for beef phở is generally made by simmering beef bones, oxtails, flank steak, charred onion, charred ginger and spices. For a more intense flavor, the bones may still have beef on them.  Seasonings can include Saigon cinnamon or other kinds of cinnamon as alternatives (may use stick or powder), star anise, roasted ginger, roasted onion, black cardamom, coriander seed, fennel seed, and clove. The broth takes several hours to make.

The Best Pho Bo in Saigon

Typical garnishes for phở Sài Gòn are: onions, chili peppers, cilantro, lime, bean sprouts, and Thai basil.

Vietnamese dishes are meals typically served with lots of greens, herbs, vegetables, and various other accompaniments such as dipping sauces, hot and spicy pastes, and a squeeze of lime or lemon juice, it may also be served with a black substance called Hoisin Sauce. The dish is garnished with ingredients such as green onions, white onions, Thai basil (húng quế) (not be confused with sweet basil, Vietnamese: húng chó or húng dổi), fresh Thai chili peppers, lemon or lime wedges, bean sprouts and coriander (ngò rí) or cilantro (ngò gai). Fish sauce (nước mắm), hoisin sauce and chili sauce may be added to taste as accompaniments.

Several ingredients not generally served with phở may be ordered by request. Extra-fatty broth (nước béo) can be ordered and comes with scallions to sweeten it. A popular side dish ordered upon request is hành dấm, or vinegared white onions.

THIEN XUAN HOTEL  - along Le Thanh Ton a stone-throw away from Ben Thanh Market

Flat Rice Cake – to be eaten placing the flat rice cake 1st then put the sauce (vinegar) , pork slice (cha lua) , lettuce, and crunchy  onion

Flat Rice Cake

French Baguette – this is one of the best tasting ones – very crunchy and flaky on the outside and soft . It is the symbol of France in every country but it varies on the place – the Vietnamese bánh mì uses a high proportion of rice flour. Just with butter or jam – this is superb.

French Baguette

Trivia: Bánh Mi is a Vietnamese term for all kinds of bread. Fillings may include meat and soy fillings such as steamed, pan-roasted or oven-roasted seasoned pork belly, Vietnamese sausage, grilled pork, grilled pork patties, spreadable pork liver pâté, pork floss, grilled chicken, chicken floss, canned sardines in tomato sauce, soft pork meatballs in tomato sauce, head cheese, fried eggs, or tofu. Accompanying vegetables include fresh cucumber slices, cilantro and pickled carrots and daikon in shredded form. Spicy chili sauce is normally found in bánh mì sold by vendors in Vietnam. In southern Vietnam, homemade mayonnaise is commonly added to the sandwich. Laughing Cow cheese is also a popular filling in Vietnam.

There is a Bánh Mi Bistro in Vietnam in 76 Vo Thi Sau, District 1.

 Soup w/ Scallops and onions – this you have to put green onions

Soup w/ Scallops and onions

Vietnamese Congee – taste is bland but with the caramelized onion w/ pieces of meat – this is good!

Vietnamese Congee

PHO 2000 – where President Clinton ate his Pho. This serves Pho along with other Vietnamese dishes. One is located directly in front of Saigon Centre.  You won’t miss the neon pink signage.

PHO 2000

 MOCHI SWEETS – Vincom Center –  Japanese rice cake made of glutinous rice pounded into paste and moulded into shape with fillings of your choice and ice cream in the centre. Sakura, their signature mochi is very good for VND 22,000 (Php 63.00)

MOCHI SWEETS

Trivia: In Japan it is traditionally made in a ceremony called mochitsuki. While also eaten year-round, mochi is a traditional food for the Japanese New Year and is commonly sold and eaten during that time

CHOCOLATE GRAPHICS – Vincom Center – a chocolate store that combines treats and art.  This is also often used as a souvenir for weddings and birthdays

CHOCOLATE GRAPHICS

LONG MONACO CAFE – located in Vincom Center B3

LONG MONACO CAFE

1. Com Truing Chien – Vietnamese Omelette – VND 45,000 – with a generous filling of enoki mushroom, meat, onions, shrimp, and bamboo shoots served with sticky rice and garnished with cucumber, parsley and tomato. This can be eaten with Tuong Ca (Tomato Sauce) and Tuong Ot ( Hot Chili Sauce )

Com Truing Chien

2. Suon Nuong sa Kho – VND 62,000 served in a pot , this spare ribs is good nestled in a generous serving of rice ( which was stickier for my preference ) garnished with cucumber, parsley and tomato.

Suon Nuong sa Kho

3. Bo Xien Que Com Chien – Beef BBQ – VND 62,000 – great tasting beef barbeque skewers w/ green bell pepper and onion served with a cup of rice and an egg.  This is the best I have tasted in this restaurant.

Bo Xien Que Com Chien

Drinks:

1.      Nuoc Ep Dua Hau – Watermelon Juice – VND 25,000 – real watermelon goodness

2.      Nuoc Cam Tuoi Da – Orange Juice – freshly squeeze

3.      Dua Tuio Uop Lanh – Cold Fresh Coconut – VND 25,000 – fresh in its shell

Foodie Notes: if you have your wet wipes with you or tissue paper, just use that, the ones in a plastic packs which are wet wipes will be charged to you if you use it for VND 2000.

Wet Wipes

THAI EXPRESS- There are 3 outlets of this restaurant: – Vincom Center B3, Le Thanh Ton, and Crescent Plaza in P. Tan Phu

THAI EXPRESS

1.  Hu Tiu Sup Nau Dac Biet Voi Rau Muong – Sen Lek Nua – VND 85,000 – a Thai adaptation of a classic Loatian dish – stick noodles w/ sliced beef in beef broth.

Hu Tiu Sup Nau Dac Biet Voi Rau Muong

2. Khao Kluk Gapi   – Bagoong Rice – this was dubbed as the King’s favourite … and mine – so good! Rice has been flavoured with their classic Thai shrimp paste with shrimp. squid and beef incorporated while being fried served with a lemon wedge, slices of scrambled egg, tomato, cucumber and shrimp paste.  

Khao Kluk Gapi

 3. Beef Curry – it lacks the curry taste that this dish should have.

Beef Curry

4. Fried Tofu w/ Basil Leaves & Spring Onions – this is also very good.  Crunchy outside and flavourful as you bite in each piece of tofu. It has a tinge of chilli and spring onion in it which makes it more exciting to eat. It is served in a bed of lettuce w/ tomato and cucumber as garnishing.

Fried Tofu w/ Basil Leaves & Spring Onions

 5. Thai Iced Tea – iced tea with milk – our version is better.

Thai Iced Tea

PHO 24 – located across the Ben Thanh Market.  This was also widely reviewed across the world by visitors. The interior looks clean. Servers are nice and accommodating. Very good photo murals – the best I’ve seen in fact.

PHO 24

1. Pho Bo  - VND 52,000 (Php 148.20 )  with a choice of Tai (fillet) , Chin (well done flank)  and Nam (brisket)

Pho Bo

2. Cha Gio – Fresh Spring Rolls – VND 42,000 (Php 119.70). This is the must have in this restaurant for me.  This is cooked crisp and fresh.

Cha Gio

3. Pho Xio Gion – Crispy pan fried noodles – VND 55,000 (Php 156.75) This is good as well.  The noodles are crispy (expected) and with a good amount of veggies and meat. 

Pho Xio Gion

4. Drinks :

Mineral Water – VND 18,000 (Php 50.00)

Soft drinks – VND 22,000 (Php 68.00)

Ca Phe Sua Da – Iced Coffee w/ Condensed Milk – VND 30,000 (Php 85.50)

Ca Phe Sua Da

 MON HUE – Le Than Ton St., Ben Than Ward, Dist 1, HCMC

MON HUE

1.      Nem Huong Euon Bánh Trang VND 66,000 (Php 188.00) – Minced BBQ pork served by rice paper and herbs.  There is too much herbs though, I’d say. This is the best dish during this meal.  The beef is tender and tasty.  Beef is wrapped in rice cakes w/ herbs and the yellow sauce in it.

Nem Huong Euon Bánh Trang

2.      Com Am Phu VND 51,000 (Php 145.35) – Hue style rice (this one I prefer) and BBQ Meal.  This is good as well but the fish paste, unlike our local paste, has too many big chunks of fish in it.  The pork is just steamed and as usual this was served with an almost-too- generous amount of herbs. 

Com Am Phu

3.      Banh Khot - savory rice cake  with bean sprouts, onion, red bell pepper, parsley and a yellowish sauce.

Banh Khot

TRES LES JOURS XIN JAO – located in Vincom and Le Loin – This is the home of all baked goodness.

TRES LES JOURS XIN JAO

1.      Cream Cheese Pastry – VND 16,000 – the best tasting cream cheese pastry.  This is a must try for cream cheese lovers.

2.      Pizza Baguette – VND 45,000

3.      Red Bean Bread – VND 16,000

4.      Baguette – VND 15,000

Trivia: Baguette is “a long thin loaf of French bread” that is commonly made from basic lean dough (the dough, though not the shape, is defined by French law). It is distinguishable by its length and crisp crust. A standard baguette has a diameter of about 5 or 6 centimeters (2 or 2⅓ in) and a usual length of about 65 centimeters (26 in), although a baguette can be up to a meter (40 in) long.

KEM BACH DANG ICE CREAM – located in front of Saigon Square where you can sit down and be amazed at how the motorcycles in throngs pass by without hurting each other. I got curious – I just had to try … ice cream parlours are everywhere maybe because of the “very” hot weather.  This is the only place in Asia that triggered a headache for me. But honestly, I would still vouch for Blue Bunny, Arce and Haagen Dazs.

KEM BACH DANG ICE CREAM

1.      Kem Chaoux – Puffs and Ice cream ( Kem va Bánh Su) – the ice cream is in between the cream puffs w/ cream and a fresh slice of watermelon-  VND 65,000 ( Php 182.25) with coconut flavoured ice cream which I like.

Kem Chaoux

2.      Cafe Liegeois – Coffee Shake w/ cream on top and chocolate bars and slivers – VND 65,000 ( Php 182.25)

Cafe Liegeois

Foodie Notes: unlimited cold iced tea served for FREE.

FREE Iced Tea

TOKYO CREPES – Parkson’s Le T Ton food court

TOKYO CREPES

            Crepe with Nutella Filling – VND 25,000 (Php 71.25)

Crepe with Nutella Filling

KITCHEN JAPAN – Parkson’s Le T Ton food court

KITCHEN JAPAN

Kep Bánh Mi – VND 36,000 (Php 102.60) – Shrimp sandwich w/ tomato and lettuce served with French Fries

Kep Bánh Mi

TAPIOCUP – Parkson’s Le T Ton food court

TAPIOCUP

Tapiocup Raspberry flavour – bubble tea

Tapiocup Raspberry flavour

LOTTERIA – Parkson’s Le T Ton food court. Their version of McDonald’s – even the colours was reds and yellows. Serves burgers and chickens.

LOTTERIA

1.      Bulgogi Burger – your typical beef burger with an Asian twist served with French Fries – this is good!

Bulgogi Burger

2.      Cheese Burger – universal junk food – but Jollibee tastes better

Cheese Burger

COFFEE

Vietnam is the world’s 2nd  largest exporter of coffee after Brazil, and cà phê is very popular among the Vietnamese. It’s a paradise for coffee-lovers. The local style is strong and sweet; key words to remember are: sữa (sweetened condensed milk), đá (ice), and nóng (hot, pronounced “nowm”). I am no coffee drinker/lover – but this time – I just might change my mind.

Coffee Shops: (among hundreds)

1.      The Coffee Bean

2.      The New York Dessert Cafe

3.      Trung Nguyen Coffee

Trung Nguyen Coffee Shop

            Coffee Brands:

1.      Hai Khanh Tuong – taste like coffee with chocolate in it ( the best I have tasted but we failed to look for its store)

Hai Khanh Tuong

2.      Gourmet Blend of Trung Nguyen Coffee –  Formerly known as House Blend, this is Trung Nguyen’s famous Gourmet Blend of all four bean varieties: Robusta, Arabica, Carimor, Excelsa., in two 250-gram foil vent bags within decorative boxes (500 gram total, 1.17 pounds). This is the traditional House Blend coffee served at over 1000 Trung Nguyen coffeehouses throughout Southeast Asia. -TN

Gourmet Blend (Trung Nguyen Coffee)

3.      Trung Nguyen – S –  Chinh Phuc – Cafe Rang Xay Thuan Viet -Considered a “Home Blend” in Vietnam, this special blend is a slightly milder version of the Gourmet Blend. We obtained a limited amount of this stock, usually not available for export.

The Buon Me Thuot Special is a blend of Arabica, Robusta, Chari (Excelsa) and Catimor beans. In traditional Vietnamese roasting and flavor balancing style, Trung Nguyen created a trademark “every occasion” coffee with a rich, broad flavor and buttery mouthfeel, with excellent aftertaste and keeping qualities. This is a highly affordable coffee with great heritage, sophisticated balance and many hints of chocolate, fruit and nut. – TN

Cafe Rang Xay Thuan Viet

4.      G7 Ca Phe Hoa Tan – also by Trung Nguyen. G7 instant coffee is extracted directly from the coffee bean, which gives a better cup of coffee than conventional freeze-dried coffee crystals. -TN

G7

5.      Kozi Coffee – Moka – since 1968. You can buy in a pouch and may come with a Vietnamese Coffee Press

Kozi Coffee

Kinds of Coffee and Prices:

1. 1.      Ca Phe Den – Black Coffee – VND 24,000 (Php 68.40)
2. 2.      Ca Phe Da – Black Coffee w/ Ice – VND 28, 000 ( Php 79.80 )
3. 3.      Ca Phe Sua Nóng – Coffee w/ Condensed Milk – VND 28,000 ( Php 79.80 )
4. 4.      Ca Phe Sua Da – Iced Coffee w/ Condensed Milk – VND 30,000 ( Php 85.50)

Caution: Since ice might or might not be made with purified water, strictly cautious visitors should avoid it, though long-term residents consume ice from reputable cafes and restaurants all the time.

The Phin Filter  is made up of a little metal cup on top of a coffee cup.  It has holes in the bottom, acting as filter.  A few teaspoons of coffee are placed inside the press. On the cup condensed milk is placed.  Fill the press with boiling water then let it drip atop the condensed milk. This will be completed 4 minutes or so. After this stir it, it can be taken hot (ca phê sua nóng) or traditionally it would be poured over ice (ca phê sua da)

Phin Filter with Coffee Bean Grinder

It is good that I didn’t listen to those who were telling me that HCMC isn’t a good vacation destination … because for me it is … if you are into the arts, architecture, food and coffee – this is your place, this is my place.  Every corner there is am art supply shop, art gallery or a small bookstore. This is the nearest you can get to Europe … in Asia.  Most people aren’t rude, they just find it hard to speak in English and the frustration that they can’t convey their message turns into exasperation. When you lived all your life in Manila – these warnings aren’t new. Just be careful so as not to ruin your vacation and have a space for patience and a little understanding- you are there to enjoy anyway.  Yes, there are also people who aren’t nice (they are everywhere in the world and not in Vietnam alone) and would rip you off your Vietnamese Dong … but know your prices, be smart. I was able to haggle even inside a department store – this is my ultimate test of how good a haggler I am.  

Travelling in a foreign place takes a lot of precautionary measures but don’t let this ruin your perception of a place.  I was never a believer that one thing can be judged wrongly by another and that you have to believe it. Give it a chance!  Cebu Pacific and Vietnam are two words that has a bad reputation that precedes them … I would say so otherwise … I’d fly Cebu Pac again … I’d go to Vietnam again.  The experience is a once in a lifetime adventure – I’ve put in so much joy and importance to simple things at this point in my life … it makes me too easy to please that is why I am happier. And I think it is better.

My 1^st Broadway debut on stage is a role of a bar girl in Miss Saigon staged in Hotel Intercontinental Manila.  Not in my wildest dream have I imagined myself that I’d go to Saigon and see it myself … smell their coffee, walk in their afternoon drizzle or  experience the hot sun.   It was a gift … it is precious to me … it is a personal journey … it is a gastronomic delight … it is where one of my best friend’s roots is  … the place is close to my heart.

If you’d ask me if I’d go back there? … yes, a hundred times more and back … in my bicycle wearing Ao Dai ( dress )  and Non La (Conical Hat) :)

Vietnamese Lady wearing Ao Dai and Non La

 Mahaha dinn Bru (goodbye, till we meet again) , Vietnam!

Some Trivia Source: Wiki

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washer fluid 1# Cyclo C-207 Windshield Washer – 16 fl oz., (Pack of 12) Description

100 percent Concentrate Windshield Washer cleaner and anti-freeze beats competitive products on the market that are 40 percent water. All-season product works as an anti-freeze in the winter and a cleaner in the summer. Custom blend the concentrated solvent to match weather conditions.
Cyclo C-207 Windshield Washer – 16 fl oz., (Pack of 12): washer fluid Feature » Click Here!!!

• All season product: winter anti-freeze and summer cleaner
• 100 Percent concentrated formula (many competitive products on the market are 40 percent water)
• User may custom blend solvent to match weather conditions

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