Didier Ludot - Who's Next - Photo Hélène Denamps

Jusqu’à dimanche prochain, le salon de mode WHO’S NEXT rend hommage aux petites robes noires issues des archives personnelles de Didier Ludot. Parmi la collection vintage, la pièce la plus ancienne date de 1926, année de création par l’interprète de « Qui a vu Coco ? » de la pièce emblématique de toutes les garde-robes.

Béatrice Ardisson est l’ambassadrice de cet l’événement anniversaire, qui sera célébré le 30 septembre prochain. A cette l’occasion, l’illustratrice sonore, qui remixe les anciens tubes  pour en faire de nouveaux, a crée la musique de la chanson « La Petite Robe Noire », sur des paroles de Stéphane Guérin : « Deux jambes qui se décroisent, trois rangs de perles ivoire, quatre gemmes turquoise, et ta petite robe noire »

« Robe nouvelle, femme nouvelle, bonne nouvelle » écrivait Louise de Vilmorin dans ses « Articles de mode ».

Toute une époque, peut-être pas totalement révolue. En effet, le numéro du magazine ELLE de cette semaine, apostrophe ses lectrices par un dynamique « Vive le néoclassique ! » et les invite à faire le test de la néobourgeoise.

« Quelle néo classique êtes-vous ? ». Si vous êtes « Bon chic, bon rock», vous aimez par dessus tout la nouvelle histoire que ces classiques de la penderie peuvent écrire. A moins que vous ne soyez une « Bourge révolutionnaire », qui joue sur la confrontation des genres pour briser les codes. Quant à la dernière option, être « Class flash », vous assurera l’usage très subtil de l’imprimé et des couleurs.

Allons-nous assister au grand retour du charme discret de la bourgeoisie?

Le vintage:

Certaines fashion victims en accord avec les créateurs vous le diront: l’acquisiton du vintage, c’est comme le sage qui detient le savoir, tout un en partie un bout de l’histoire.

selon John GALLIANO, Découvrir et s’instruire des vêtements vintages est comme passer une  vieille recette de génération en génération.

Le vintage couvre une période allant des années 40 au années 80.

Pourquoi cet engouement?  Eh bien pour le glamour, l’originalité, la qualité de la haute couture à  des prix rasionnables.

Qualité et esthétique de la pièce. Le très beau, la belle qualité, ne se démodent quasiment pas. On peut toujours porter une belle veste vintage avec un pantalon contemporain…

 Pour les passionnés de mode, c’est la garantie de posséder une pièce unique que l’on ne retrouvera nulle part. 

“Porter du vintage, c’est toucher à l’intemporel. On s’offre une part d’histoire, det donc d’éternité.”

Porter du vintage c’est réinventer un look ruen qu’à soi, se libérer de la consommation de masse, la crise économique et sociale y est pour quelque chose.

Vous aurez une tenue que seule vous posséderez pour le prix d’une petite veste nous recherchons l’exclusivité

Pour les petits budgets, le vintage est le moyen de se procurer des pièces d’une qualité rares, que l’on n’aurait jamais pu se procurer. I : y a aussi le coté trésor dans le vêtement vintage.

Lucette Pistre

Didier Ludot

20-24 galerie Montpensier

Paris 1^er

01 42 96 06 56

La petite robe noire

125 galerie de Valois

Paris 1^er

01 40 15 01 04

Anouschka

6 av. du Coq

75009 Paris

01 48 74 37 00

Sur rendez vous uniquement!

Ne râtez pas ces autres “barons” du fashion vintage pendant vos voyages à Londres.

Annie’s antiques

10 Camden Passage

London N1 8 ED,

02073590796

Ladenneuentdeckung aus Antwerpen: Sien. Eine ehemalige Studentin der Modeakademie ist jetzt mit ihrem Shop Untermieterin von Bruno Pieters (der sein Atelier im ersten Stock hat).

Sien ist so ein Misch aus gemütlich-schlicht und Fabrikcharme mit offenen Steinwänden. Und auch wenn ich kein Teil nach meinem Geschmack gefunden habe: die Markenauswahl kann sich sehen lassen: Ungaro (wusste gar nicht, dass Cortazars Kaschmirpullis mit Schalkragen über 4.000 Euro kosten), Proenza Schouler, Bruno Pieters, Didier Ludot, Givenchy, Tim van Steenbergen, Allessandro dell’Acqua oder Christian Wijnants. (Nationalestraat 91)

Foto: Sien

Second Hand gibt es in Paris eigentlich gar nicht, sondern nur Vintage und dann bitte von echten Designern und mit dementsprechenden Preisen. Bei Ludot habe ich mich vor wenigen Wochen mal erkundigt, was denn eine kleine Kelly-Bag aus den 60ern Jahren mit reichlich Gebrauchsspuren kostet. Die Antwort: 4000 Euro. Und das war noch nicht einmal eine Kroko-Version.

Das Ganze ist also eher was zum Gucken denn Kaufen und deswegen kann ich nun auch diese schöne Vintage-Messe ankündigen, die ab Samstag in Paris stattfinden wird. Über 60 Vintage-Spezialisten gewähren einen Eindruck in ihre Schätze. Schwerpunkt sind die Jahre “Yéyé”, also die späten 60er und 70er, im Titel auch die “orangen Jahre” genannt. Hier mal ein Vorgeschmack:

Fotos: Salon du Vintage

Você já ouviu falar em Didier Ludot? Ele é um dos maiores colecionadores de moda. No seu acervo, dividido por jóias, acessórios, vestidos pretos e alta-costura, são 20 mil peças.  Entre elas: Courrèges, Chanel, Dior, Pierre Cardin, bolsas Hermès, Balenciaga… só de YSL são duas mil peças. Imaginem o banho de história de moda.

Sua loja fica no Palais-Royal, em Paris, e as visitas são guiadas. Pra quem estiver por Paris, vale uma visita, hein?!

No site do colecionador você conhece um pouco sobre ele e consegue ver algumas peças do acervo. É uma boa uma viagem virtual agora mesmo! Depois me conte o que achou, ok?

Doing interviews during prêt-à-porter

Fashion week in Paris – always a bit hectic between the shows, parties, interviews and friends – but always exciting! This season, my New York film and PR team accompanied me to film Chic In Paris video spots, making the week extra glamorous and fun.  We were all over the city. From the front row to backstage and exclusive filming in the best boutiques, restaurants and the ateliers of up-and-coming designers. Here are some of the highlights of the week:

Sunday, September 30

The Palais Royal

Every year, to kick off the fashion week in Paris, Didier Ludot, famous for his vintage collections, throws a fabulous party honoring a special designer. This year, it was for the up-and-coming Alexis Mabille, known for his signature bow ties and unisex clothes. The evening commemorated his Couture collection. A coat made of vintage fabric chiffon bow ties was the winner in my book. Among the guests at the Palais Royale party were Courtney Love and designer Rick Owens. I had a great chat with Courtney – we talked about books and fashion. She’s really into Givenchy and Rick Owens.

With Felix Farrington and Didier Ludot

At Dider's party with Courtney Love

With designer Rick Owens

Speaking with Alexis Mabille. His Butterfly Coat is behind us.

Monday, October 1

The day was crisp and bright at the Tuileries gardens. The crowds always gather for the Dior show. It is a mix of chic editors and chic women in their sky-high platforms, photographers like bees swarming around them capturing every detail they wear – a handbag, a scarf. It’s exciting and fascinating to be photographed as the images will go around the world.

Inside, everyone always wants to know what John Galliano will come up with next. This year’s spring collection was more toned down with touches from his 2007 Couture collections. John crafted beautiful dresses and suits with the most celebrated details of silky glamour from the 20’s, 30’s and 40’s, such as wraps, sharp suits and sexy Bonny and Clyde references. Gemma Ward in a beret and lush red lips was classic. I think we will see many women in Dior gracing boardrooms and chic nightspots for Spring.  The show opened with the lushness of Sting’s music. He was there in the front row as he was in Paris for his big concert.

Here are some of my favorites:

Tuesday, October 2

Today, I took a break from the shows to film exclusive footage in Paris’ most beautiful boutiques. We filmed at Louis Vuitton on the Champs Élysées and at Scarlett, one of my favorite vintage shops (10, Rue-Clément Marot).  We got a sneak peek of her own private collection designed specifically for the Chic Over 40 woman.

Moving on to lunch at L’Avenue which was crowned by an interview with owner Alex Denis.  In the afternoon, we filmed at Chopard, which will be opening a new Madison Avenue boutique in New York  this Fall. After Chopard, we stopped by another jeweler, Lydia Courteille, who has the most eclectic and unusual taste with stories and mystery woven into each piece. She takes her inspiration from diverse elements such as antique cameos or opals that, for example, look like a hurricane at sea and creates one-of-a-kind pieces.

Wednesday, October 3

Albert Kriemler, the Swiss designer for Akris, just gets better and better.  His collection this season – modern and elegant. He is the new Armani. While in the past, his collections have been “pretty” and “wearable”, this season, Albert took some risks. This time he went just a tad edgier, but not so much that the Chic Over 40 client would shy away.

Backstage, Albert enjoyed the accolades from the press and buyers. His closest assistant told me they always joke about how they should be doing “flowers” for Spring, but with Albert’s geometric sensibility, it’s just not possible. However, the geometric layers of sheer chiffon, which lightly fluttered as the models walked the runway, gave a truly feminine, “flowery” sexiness.

While other reviewers thought that Albert went too far and could potentially lose his core clientele, I disagree. I say that it is a departure – and a welcomed one. Maybe he’ll attract new clients too.

Here are some of my favorites:

Backstage withAlbert Kriemler                  Front row at Akris

Requiem

Designers Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle have come a long way since I saw their first collection two years ago in an apartment on the rue François Premier. The first time I saw Requiem, I knew they would be a huge success. From the François Premiere to the Petit Palais, these two young newcomers have now established their place on the prêt-à-porter calendar and, in my opinion, have a huge future. Their collection of satins in deep rich jewel colors was fresh and young but not just for the young, as I see the chic woman over 40 wearing Requiem to update her wardrobe without looking ridiculous.

Backstage with Julien Desselle and Raffaele Borriello and one of their models

Jean-Louis Scherrer book party at the Hôtel Georges V

During the evening, I had the great honor to meet Madame Giscard d’Estaing. And  I was invited to her charity ball, Rêve de Valse, held at the L’Orangerie at Versailles on Monday, October 8th.

Meeting Madame Giscard d’Estaing

Speaking with journalist Jean-Pierre Elkabbach

With Stephane Ruffier-Meray

Thursday, October 4

My day began filming in the gorgeous new Lanvin boutique on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré where I was given the tour by Fabien, one of my favorite salesmen. Dapper in his black satin bow tie, he pointed out the luxurious details of the clothing, accessories and even the furniture, original pieces from the early days of the house of Jeanne Lanvin. Alber’s dog followed us around the shop and Alber, himself, wanted to make sure I saw his homage to Arpège, Lanvin’s classic perfume in its updated flacons.

Then, it was on to Yves Saint Laurent.  I totally appreciate Stefano Pilati’s tailoring . His jump suits and suit jackets are clean and chic. This season, he added a lot of volume to his dresses, which I don’t think are becoming unless you are six feet tall and thin. Some of the big sparkled dresses were a bit much. He should stick with what he does best. These are some of my favorites.

Kristin Scott Thomas was a beautiful sight in the front row.

Friday, October 5

Backstage, after the Chanel show, Karl told me that this collection was inspired by The Great Gatsby. The show almost felt like an American tribute – all stars and stripes – some great knits for golf and tea parties. The buzz is all about the impossible, just-for-sunning and a very sporty denim bathing suit that opened the show. Karl also showed gorgeous dresses for evening or dressy garden parties – playing with layers of sheer fabric – very sexy. You can see Daisy Buchanan and Jay Gatsby walking down the runway.

Here are some of my favorites:

Victoria Beckham                                Kanye West

Victoria Beckham, Courtney Love and Kanye West were backstage to congratulate Karl. I gave Karl a copy of my book, Chic In Paris, which he was very happy to get! In return, he gave me two kisses, which me sent flying out of the Grand Palais!

Interviewing Karl Lagerfeld

During the afternoon we filmed at the Dior boutique on the famous corner of the avenue Montaigne. Dior is the quintessential elegant Parisian boutique. The layout could be from the 1800’s or the 1950’s but the rotunda, with its elevated theatre-in-the-round screening of runway shows and inspirational images creates a 21st century effect. Anticipating the winter season, I tried on two fur-trimmed coats that were divine. My friend Karin Mehnert, editor at Neo magazine, happened to be shopping for winter coats as well. She chose bright yellow and red while I chose the softer, more muted gold and grey.

In the evening, we were invited to the Hôtel de Crillon for the Rock and Republic Party, hosted by Andrea Bernholtz, which was a glittering glam rock and roll party of the best kind. The room is old world glamour, mirrors, high ceilings, architectural details… the perfect place on the place de la Concorde. Add in a crowd of beautiful people and flowing champagne and it is truly magical. I had my book launch party there and believe it is the chicest spot for a party in Paris.

With hostess Andrea Bernholtz             At the party with a model

Little Marvin

Saturday, October 6

Olivier Theyskens’ collection for Nina Ricci was a dreamy sexy inspirational show. I loved the daywear – combinations of silks, satins and denim – very cool. The animal-like details of a shoe, or a feather scarf were ethereal touches to the very bohemian yet classic and wearable pieces. The evening gowns were absolutely sensational – real red carpet material.

Here are some of my favorites:

Backstage with Olivier Theyskens

It is true that Lanvin is one of my personal favorites – I am his poster child. Having said that, this collection was by far his best and one of the most uplifting of the season. The setting was a huge music hall, with carnival lights, tuxedoed candy-vendors and fireworks. It was fun and edgy at the same time – like the collection.

I was on the edge of my seat as each model came down the runway. The colors kept exploding with magentas, teal, red, coral, purple… there was something for every woman. This season, the silhouettes themselves are not all voluminous, rather the clothes are structured with volume details. Alber showed some of the best fluid pants. When the show ended, there was a roar of applause – so well deserved.

Alber Elbaz                                         The Lanvin Poster Child

Backstage with Alber Elbaz

For Louis Vuitton Marc Jacobs once again mastered the game of mixing fashion and art. This season, he pays homage to artist Richard Prince and began the show with superstar models such as Naomi Campbell, Isabeli Fontana, Karolina Kurkova, Angela Lindvall, Stephanie Seymour, Nadja Auermann and Eva Herzigová dressed as naughty nurses with black lace masks à la Prince’s iconography.

The style news was in the color – lots of rainbow bright pastels put together and the silhouettes – slim skirts, satin jackets and A-line skirts. Other themes were 50’s color knits pieced together, sequin-stripped sweaters and sheer layers – a recurring theme in all the collections. How to translate runway to real life? Wearing Marc Jacobs is best approached like accessories – individual pieces worn as accents to one’s own style. This could be a Richard Prince conversation-starter bag or a candy-colored blouse.

The sensationalism and trend-setting of the Louis Vuitton brand is clear. Picture flamboyant Dita von Teese, Kanye West and Pharrell Williams seated front row. The show ended with Marc Jacobs walking the runway with his TV screen Spongebob lunch box under the vast ceiling covered in blow-ups of 1950’s pulp fiction erotic titles such as London After Dark and Tokyo After Dark.

Backstage with Yves Carcelle, CEO of Louis Vuitton

Interviewing Marc Jacobs backstage     Backstage with Marc Jacobs

After Louis Vuiton, backstage with Naomi Campbell

Ralph Rucci is the first American to ever be invited to show at Haute Couture in Paris. Ralph raises the standard of elegance. The craftsmanship, proportion and choice of fabrics take your breath away. When you see a fur coat pieced with sheer fabric, you get an idea of the Ralph’s vision. I have been a loyal fan and was happy to see him show in Paris again this time for both his prêt-à-porter and Couture collections.

For this show in the Palais de Tokyo, his loyal clients and friends such as Deeda Blair, Susan Gutfreund and Sarah Wolfe came to celebrate Ralph’s sublime genius.

Susan Gutfreund, Deeda Blair and Bill Cunningham

Backstage with Ralph Rucci

Monday, October 8

In the morning I interviewed Alexis Mabille in his Marais atelier filled with bow ties of every imaginable fabric, size and shape. Models displayed his androgynous clothing and there were several pieces that could be stunning for the evening, such as an icy pale blue satin cape.

Versailles – Rêve de Valses

The Fondation Pour L’Enfance (The Child Foundation) is a charity founded 30 years ago by Madame Giscard d’Estaing, the wife of the 20th President of France, Valéry Giscard d’Estaing. The Child Foundation does wonderful work to help abused children around the world. Each year, they hold a spectacular event called the La Nuit Internationale de l’Enfance (International Evening of the Child). Stephane Ruffier-Meray, friend and member of the executive committee to this gala event, invited me this year to their Black and White Ball at Versailles. It was a spectacular setting with the fountains and statues bathed in light and I felt like I was in another century.  The Fondation pour l’Enfance would like to express their heartfelt thanks for the generosity of its partners and donors that makes it possible to pursue its mission to help these children who suffer.

I was honored to be a part of this fabulous evening and hope to see you all there next year.

With former President of France, Valéry Giscard d’Estaing, his wife, Madame Giscard d’Estaing

With Stephane Ruffier-Meray

The dinner at L’Orangerie

Dancing at L’Orangerie

Reminiscent of the grand Black and White Balls in New York at the Plaza, the setting was a dramatic and a fantastic way to end yet another exciting week in Paris.