If you want a well known variety of fruit, and you can grow it in your garden, chances are it will be cheapest in the shops when your tree is laden with fruit. That’s how the market works. But if you have a tree in your garden that has different fruit to any other tree in the world, which is quite conceivable, then nobody else will have it for sale. Sure, it won’t be much different; after all, if you save a seed from an orchard grown fruit which was surrounded by genetically identical trees when it flowered, the gene pool is  small to begin with. But every now and then, random recombination combined with natural variation means something new and unusual will spring forth. It may have a different flavour, or colour, or more disease resistance, or better nutritional content, or prettier flowers, or larger fruit, or any other possible variation. The world renowned Granny Smith apple, for example, came from a seedling out of a compost heap in country New South Wales. And if you do get something worth spreading around, you obviously have the right to immortalise yourself, though I don’t think Maria Anne Smith referred to herself as “Granny”.

Some sorely neglected Citrus seedlings. You know how mechanics' cars are always falling apart?

Some fruit produce seeds that are poly-embryonic, meaning they are capable of growing more than one plant from each seed. In the case of Citrus species, one of the embryos is asexual, meaning it’s a clone of the parent plant, along with one or two “normal” embryos. I used to peel the seed coat off citrus pips and stick them in my mum’s indoor plants. They usually grew, but I never took it further than germinating them as a kid. There’s no way of knowing which of the seedlings is the clone, obviously, until they fruit, or you have a genetics lab handy. And seedling trees take longer to fruit than grafted, nursery propagated fruit trees, possibly up to seven years, as compared to two or three. But seedlings are free, and if after a few years waiting the fruit turns out to be not to your liking, you can always graft on something you do like. Even commercial trees have this done as consumer tastes change.

Sprouting Garlic cloves, ready for planting (pic courtesy of shonky photo, inc.)

Okay, so fruits are all good, but what about vegetables? In some cases, they are fruit anyway. Tomato, Pumpkin, Melon, Capsicum and Chilli seeds are easy to identify for example, and Eggplant too, though the seeds are a little harder to extract. But often we actually buy whole or almost whole plants. The onion family is the best example of this. Onion and garlic bulbs are basically dormant plants. Each individual clove of garlic is capable of producing a whole bulb of garlic if you stick it back in the ground. Just look for clove that are already starting to push out a leaf, and bury them pointy end up, just below the soil surface. Onions will regrow if planted, though not as deeply, and they usually just flower, which gives you a seed supply at least. Onions that have divided into separate bulbs may be able to become multiplier onions, this is where Shallots originally came from.

Look ma! Growing Garlic!

Leeks are also a whole plant, though they are usually trimmed of excess leaves and roots before they arrive at the market. But you can use the leek as normal in the kitchen, and then replant just the base, which will re-grow. Again, you may only end up with a flowering stalk, but they do look attractive, like pink pom-poms, and again, you will be able to collect plenty of seeds. Pretty much anything that comes with a root attached, for example bunched herbs, can be replanted and grown again, though the shock of harvest and transport may mean they simply flower quickly and produce seeds. But you may get some foliage, which is what you want from herbs, and at the very least you will get seeds.

Three leeks and a celery. Not pictured: Ted Danson

Whole bunches of celery can also be a source of planting material. I usually pull off the large outside stalks of celery until the pale, tiny leave in the centre are all that’s left attached to the base of the plant. That base can be planted either in the garden or in a pot, and will grow new leaves and roots, which may either be harvested, or left to produce seed for next year.

The pale, sickly looking celery heart. This was indeed a dark day for flash-free photography. Happily, the celery made a miraculous recovery (see above)

These are just a few examples of how your grocery basket can be a way of filling up your food garden as well as your fridge. If something looks like it will grow, give it a try, you never know your luck. I am currently eyeing a pineapple top in my compost bin. I will get back to you…

“What can I plant right now in my garden?”

I can usually rattle off a few things to get people started, but I will always forget something, and that’s part of the reason I started this blog in the first place. You can look back for planting lists for every month of the year as posts, but I have made this Garden Doctor Planting Calendar using Google calendars and made it public. The idea is you can subscribe to this, and get reminders sent to your email address if you want them, which will keep you up to date as far as what you can be putting in the garden any time of the year.

I may expand it to include harvesting, too, so you can have an idea what you’re missing, hopefully to encourage you to get out and get ready for next season. Currently it has entries for Melbourne, Sydney, Hobart and Launceston, and Adelaide, but I will expand to other regions as time allows, so stay tuned. If you’re not covered yet and you’re in a hurry to get started, let me know! To use it, just click on the link, which will take you to the calendar, then click on “What to plant this week in [your city]” to get a pop-up list of everything you can put in at the moment. I’ll be updating the information over the next couple of weeks to include upcoming months, until I have covered the whole year.

Here’s the link again: Garden Doctor Planting Calendar

Romanesco Broccoli looks amazing in the garden. Until you want to eat it, of course.

But I guess it’s my penchant for perennials that wins over every time. Maybe I am just a bit lazy, but planting things over and over again seems like a lot of effort, and I usually look for things that can be planted once, and either keep growing, grow back, or self seed without my interference. One such plant I have grown in my garden is possibly one of the most productive and useful crops known to agricultural science. It has many names, the Lab Lab Bean, Hyacinth Bean or Dolichos Bean, but scientifically it is known as Lablab purpureus. It is a leguminous twining climber, with attractive purple or pink flowers, and large green or purple pods. It can yield up to 10 tons per hectare of fodder or green manure when grown as a field crop, and can be made used for silage, which improves nutrition for animals by fermenting the cut material. It can produce anywhere up to 4 tons per hectare of green beans, which are edible, and copious amounts of dried seed. The dried seeds is edible, too, though if it’s not cooked properly in a couple of changes of water, can be mildly toxic. Then again so are a lot of plant parts we avoid, like green potatoes, so lets not get hung up on that aspect. Humans can eat the foliage, too, though we can pretty much eat anything green and non-toxic, I guess it’s a matter of taste.

Huge yields of beans, this was a single week's harvest from one vine.

The plant itself is drought tolerant, though obviously yields better with adequate water supplies, and after picking every bean I could see on my plant, a week later I harvested 1.1kg of green beans for eating. The flavour is like green bean, the texture may take some getting used, to, though. They are a bit tougher and more rubbery than they appear, and unfortunately do not have the snapping quality of the Snow Peas they look so much like. But I have used them in stir fries, casseroles, curries, pretty much anything that calls for a mixture of vegetables. I usually string them, and chop them up crossways in strips or squares. There is so little work in growing them, they could even be worth planting even if you never use the beans.

I planted this seed late last summer, but most of the growth is from this year. It stretches at least twice as far as you can see from this, in both directions

The vine is attractive, and fast growing, usually grown from seed, and selected varieties have purple colouration in the leaves and stems, adding to the visual appeal, and they do have attractive white, pink or purple pea flowers, arranged in spikes, looking something like a Hyacinth, though without the fragrance. They also improve the soil, adding nitrogen, and cover a fence or support very quickly. While they are supposed to be perennial only in the subtropics or warmer, I have had no problems keeping mine alive over winter. In fact, the seeds I planted were collected from another vine not too far from where I live in the inner suburbs of Melbourne, so I know it is happy here. Whether you grow this vine as an emergency food supply, which may be more important in the future, or just as a quick growing cover for a fence, it’s a useful plant to have, and will, if nothing else, keep potential weeds at bay.

Just like every living thing, plants need three basic things: Water, food and shelter. In addition, plants need light, vegies about 6-8 hours a day, and the vast majority of plants grow in a specific temperature range, about 10-30 degrees Celsius. They may survive outside that range, but they will not grow as efficiently. Water is probably where most disasters happen, and it’s mostly due to forgetting to water them. Plants may not need watering every day, but it’s probably worth checking them that often just be sure. Plants use more water on hot days, and when it’s windy, and less when it’s cold.

I forgot to water these Cossack Pineapples, and it almost killed them, but you can see some regrowth at the base, and they have at least produced a bunch of fruit, which is full of seeds to try again!

If you can see them visibly wilting, it’s obvious they need a drink, but it’s usually best not to let them get to that stage, as they do go into a kind of shock if they get too stressed. The easiest way to check is to stick your finger into the soil or potting mix and see if it’s damp. If it’s dry, apply water. I find it easier to have a built in watering system, even for containers, and it makes it as easy as turning on a tap. Plants usually do better if they’re in the ground with a longer watering infrequently, which encourages roots to grow deep in search of water, while frequent short watering encourages shallow roots.

Food for plants is not the same as for animals. They actually make their own chemical energy from sunlight, water and carbon dioxide. We call that sugar, and most other life on earth depends on plants for energy. But plants do need other nutrients to build their physical structure. Things like animal manures contain most of the nutrients plants need, though they can tend to smell for a couple of days after applying, but there’s much less likelihood of over-fertilising, which can burn the plants. Commercially available fertilisers will have application rates on the packaging, and as potency can vary greatly in unlabelled manures, some caution may be necessary when spreading, especially with poultry manures, which tend to be a bit stronger than cow, sheep or horse sources.

Even professionals get it wrong sometimes. It's too late for these Tomatoes. Good thing I grew more than I needed. And yes, I have seeds left over, too.

And as far as shelter goes, in the case of plants, that generally means protection. Plants can’t run away from their predators, so they need looking after by us if we want to eat them instead of being feasted on by slugs and snails and insects. How you choose to control the pests is entirely up to personal choice, but for the most part, some form of snail control will be needed, especially after rain, and a reasonably regular inspection and spray for other insects as required. A Pyrethrum based will knock off most pests, and is relatively non toxic to us, naturally sourced as it is from a daisy, though it will kill most insects, even the beneficial ones like ladybirds.

Really, what I am trying to get across is that growing pants is not really a lot of work. The plants have much more of a vested interest in their own survival than us, and do most of the work. We just have to keep an eye on them and give them a helping hand once in a while. Just like any skill, we get better with practice, and need to take every plant death or failure as an instructional learning experience. Even the oldest gardeners mess it up from time to time, but the cost of a pack of seeds is so inexpensive, it’s easy enough to just have another go. Go on, get back on the horse, Black thumbs of the world, and give it another try!

Coles has a whole range of veggie seedlings available at this time of year, and I recently purchased some cos lettuce, silverbeet, tomato and beetroot seedlings from them. Growing plants like these from seedlings is generally faster, as in this case mr. Coles has kindly germinated them for me. With this in mind you could always start your garden with seedlings, while at the same time raising seeds in punnets for the second planting. However, if you are organised and keen it could be a better option to simply start your seeds earlier, and have them ready at the same time as Coles (or Bunnings or Flower Power etc.).

While I am happy to use seedlings from Coles the range available is never quite broad enough to satisfy all my culinary desires, and it is also the case that many plants will only thrive if planted from seed in the place where they are to grow to adulthood. Plants with this requirement are often described as needing to be sown “directly” or “in situ“. A common example is coriander, which will not thrive if it has been transplanted.

So, for my organic seed needs I order them online from the Eden Seeds Select Organic range. They have an excellent range, with many heritage varieties, and other varieties ideally suited to unusual conditions. I purchased some winter spinach from them that, true to expectations, did really well in cold weather that spinach normally would not tolerate. The lot of seeds pictured above arrived yesterday, with the result that I have spent the morning planting seeds in big pots or little punnets. It is a good idea to have a reference book nearby when planting seeds, as each plant prefers to be sown in different conditions, at different temperatures and at different depths. Getting seeds to germinate can be difficult, yet success is far more likely if you read up on the ideal conditions for each plant species.

So, in conclusion, while the question of whether to use seeds or seedlings is important when planning your garden, there is nothing to stop you using both in combination. For example, I find lettuce seeds near impossible to germinate, meaning seedlings are generally the better option. But radish grows so fast and so prolifically that to buy seedlings would just be a waste, meaning I generally just grow radish from seed.

Happy planting!

So, anyway, Spring is starting to play hide and seek with us, popping in for the morning or the afternoon, before retreating and leaving us freezing again. But every time the sun pops its head in, the soil is warmed a little more, and the days are getting longer so the worst of the darkness is well behind us. If the weather is kind this weekend, it might be a good time to get out and assess the vegie patch, or potential vegie patch, or patch of un-mown lawn, or even sun-soaked concrete. There are ways of dealing with concrete that don’t require a jackhammer, crow-bar or sledge hammer. But that’s for another day, for now, here’s the list of things to plant this month!

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• Broad beans (Vicia faba)
• Beetroot (Beta vulgaris)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
• Carrot (Daucus carota) Tas. only
• Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa)
• Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
• Cress (Lepidium sativum)
• Endives (Chicorium endivia)
• Herbs (various)
• Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Winter varieties
• Onions (Allium cepa)
• Peas – dwarf (Pisum sativum)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris)

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants
• Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) crowns
• Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root sections
• Chinese Artichokes (Stachys affinis) tubers/plants
• Horseradish (Amoracia rusticana) root sections
• Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) crowns
• Multiplier Onions (Allium cepa var.  aggregatum) bulbs
• French Shallots (eschalots) (Allium oschaninii) bulbs
• Strawberry (Fragarium x ananassa) crowns
• Globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus) offshoots (slips)
• Bare rooted fruit & nut trees
• Deciduous berry & bramble fruits
• Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum)

Under glass

• Capsicum & chilli (Capsicum anuum & C. frutescens)
• Cossack Pineapple (Physalis pruinosa)
• Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
• Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
• Tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica)
• Cucumber (Cucumis sativa)
• Melons (Cucurbita spp)
• Pumpkins (Cucurbita spp)
• Zucchini/Squash (Cucurbita spp)

Okay gang, go nuts.

But it’s true that not all human needs are material, and our psychological well-being is another aspect to be considered. It’s no surprise that people like flowers. Though they exist for the purpose of plant reproduction, and not actually for our enjoyment, the splashes of colour they provide in the landscape have positive connotations for most people. The return of the sun and the change of seasons are announced by the appearance of colourful flowers, both native and exotic. In the garden they can be of some use, too, providing habitat for insect predators, and camouflage from insect pests.

Of course, unless they are growing wild, someone has to plant them. At this time of year, it’s possible to pick up really cheap end-of-season flowering bulbs. I picked up eight packets of bulbs on the weekend for about $15, less than half of their full price a few weeks ago. Flowering bulbs are a good way to get some spring colour in the garden, without the hassle of planting out seedlings or trying to germinate them in the garden. They also usually mean you will have flowers every year, as the bulb itself is a perennating organ that allows the plant to survive from year to year.

True bulbs: Daffodils (Narcissus spp), left, and Hyacinth (Hyacinthus orientalis). The Hyacinths are starting to grow, and a small plantlet has emerged from the bottom of one of the bulbs due to upside down packaging

There are a number of underground storage organs that are collectively referred to as bulbs, including corms, rhizomes and tubers. True bulbs are modified leaves used for storage, and if sliced open look something like onions, with each layer representing a single leaf, attached at the base to a modified stem, or base plate. Corms, when cut open, appear solid, and the stem is the modified storage organ. Rhizomes consist of modified underground stems, usually growing horizontally, though not always, and tubers are also modified stems, like potatoes, with eyes that sprout new growth.

Depending on local climate and what species are planted, “bulbs” may be left in the ground, or lifted seasonally. Being generally lazy, I tend to select things that can stay in the ground, as finding and lifting them every year when they are finished is just a pain. They are mostly happy in containers, too, and they can be shoved out of view when the flowers finish if you can’t stand the sight of their messy foliage later in the season. You can see form my pictures some of the bulbs have already impatiently started growing, so be careful not to damage the new growth when you’re planting them like this.

Freesia corms, left, and the claw like Ranunculus rhizomes. Ranunculus are the among the few planted pointy end down.

I’d better get these in the ground, and hopefully in a month or so I will be rewarded with some flowers. Mostly they are planted pointy end up, with the exception of Anemones and Ranunculus, to a depth about the same as the bulb’s height. Just something to be careful of: Many of these ornamentals, while pleasing to look at, may contain toxic compounds. Ranunculus, for example are toxic to grazing animals. Be careful not to plant purely ornamental plants among edible crops, especially where their foliage or bulbs may be confused with food, e.g. Daffodils and Onions. Mostly, you will know it pretty fast, they taste awful. Other than that, get out there and find a bargain. Alternatively, find a patch where bulbs are poking their leaves above the ground and grab some for another spot, you won’t harm them too much if you do it THIS WEEK!

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• Broad beans (Vicia faba)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
• Carrot (Daucus carota) Tas. only
• Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa)
• Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
• Cress (Lepidium sativum)
• Endives (Chicorium endivia)
• Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Winter varieties
• Onions (Allium cepa)
• Peas – dwarf (Pisum sativum)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)

The garden is still producing okay, this is part of my container garden: Carrots & Warragul Greens on the left with Turmeric behind; Red Mustard on the right; Parsley and some still kicking Eggplants in the background

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants
• Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) crowns
• Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root sections
• Chinese Artichokes (Stachys affinis) tubers/plants
• Horseradish (Amoracia rusticana) root sections
• Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) crowns
• Multiplier Onions (Allium cepa var.  aggregatum) bulbs
• French Shallots (eschalots) (Allium oschaninii) bulbs
• Strawberry (Fragarium x ananassa) crowns
• Globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus) offshoots (slips)
• Bare rooted fruit & nut trees
• Deciduous berry & bramble fruits
• Potatoes (Solanum tuberosum)

Under glass

• Capsicum & chilli (Capsicum anuum & C. frutescens)
• Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
• Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
• Tomatillo (Physalis philadelphica)

And don’t forget to look at seed catalogues and online nurseries while toasting by the fire, and planning where it can all go when the shut-in ends.

This month is the start of planning for next summer, and you will notice that as well as a larger list of seeds to plant this month, there is also the added interest of planting a whole range of perennial plants, like Asparagus, and even fruit tress. At this time of year, most deciduous trees have lost their leaves, and are dormant. This makes it the best time to move them around and replant them, and they are also cheaper to buy in their “bare root” state than in pots. I will post in some detail about this subject separately.

Also it’s time to think about what you might like to have on the go when spring arrives. It’s time to start propagating summer crops that take a long time to mature, such as Tomatoes and Capsicums. Getting them going now in a protected spot, like a kitchen window sill, will give them a head start when spring defrosts the ground in a couple of months time. That will give them a huge advantage, and bring lots to harvest before the serious heat of summer hits us. Starting these now is okay, as the potato family are fine with being held in check for a while, unlike some plants, like the pumpkins.

Is your garden looking a little empty and dead like my neighbour's? Well, at least there's plenty of space for all this month's plants.

I will detail in other posts things I’ve mentioned in this one, but for now, here’s the list!

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• Broad beans (Vicia faba)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
• Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa)
• Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
• Cress (Lepidium sativum)
• Endives (Chicorium endivia)
• Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Winter varieties
• Onions (Allium cepa)
• Peas – dwarf (Pisum sativum)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants
• Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis) crowns
• Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) root sections
• Horseradish (Amoracia rusticana) root sections
• Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) crowns
• Multiplier Onions (Allium cepa var.  aggregatum) bulbs
• French Shallots (eschalots) (Allium oschaninii) bulbs
• Strawberry (Fragarium x ananassa) crowns
• Globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus) offshoots (slips)
• Bare rooted fruit & nut trees
• Deciduous berry & bramble fruits

Under glass

• Capsicum & chilli (Capsicum anuum & C. frutescens)
• Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
• Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)

Now… to the nursery!

With the cold weather comes a period of slow growth, and low germination. Seeds planted now may remain too cold to germinate and even rot in the soil before warm spring weather can save them. Plants already growing will slow down their growth the cooler the days get. Most plants only grow between about 10 & 25 °C, and will increase in size very little, or not at all, outside this temperature range. This means that crops will be slow to produce, though regular planting earlier in the autumn will reap rewards through the colder months.

Don’t forget, also, as winter approaches, the number of daylight hours is reduced, and the sun is lower in the sky, which will likely have an impact on growth as well. As long as plants get five or six hours of direct sun per day, they should still produce something. Plants that don’t get enough light may become etiolated, meaning they expand in the internode region of the stem, making tall, spindly plants which may be too weak to support themselves, so keep a look out for anything needing a bit of support!

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• Broad beans (Vicia faba)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) Vic. & NSW coast only
• Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa) NSW only
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Winter varieties
• Brown Onions (Allium cepa)
• Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) Vic. & NSW only
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)Vic. only

Seedlings of Red Dragon Carrots and Warragul Greens in my backyard

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants
• Leek (Allium ampeloprasum) Vic. only
• Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea)
• Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) crowns
• Multiplier Onions (Allium cepa var.  aggregatum) bulbs
• French Shallots (eschalots) (Allium oschaninii) bulbs
• Strawberry (Fragarium x ananassa) crowns
• Globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus) offshoots (slips) NSW only

So, you can see there’s not a great deal to plant, and what is planted at this time of year may not produce any harvest until August or September, or even later. But it is time to start thinking about other kinds of planting. The season for bare rooted deciduous plants is almost upon us, and that means it is time to start thinking about orchard planning! I will definitely post about the topic this month, so stay tuned, and stay warm!

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• Broad beans (Vicia faba)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
• Carrots (Daucus carota)
• Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea)
• Broccoli (Brassica oleracea) Vic. only
• Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa)
• Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
• Leek (Allium ampeloprasum) Vic. only
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Check variety
• White & Brown Onions (Allium cepa)
• Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) Vic. only
• Snow, Snap & Shell Peas (Pisum sativum)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris) Vic. only
• Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
• Swedes/Turnips (Brassica campestris) Vic. only

Some snow peas have purple flowers to add colour to the winter vegie patch

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants
• Globe artichoke (Cynara scolymus) offshoots (slips) NSW only

It’s probably a good time to dig in any compost or soil additives you might be inclined to add to your plots while the autumn rains keep up, but again, there’s enough information involved in that for another post or seven.

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• Broad beans (Vicia faba)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) Check variety
• Carrots (Daucus carota)
• Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea) Vic. only
• Broccoli (Brassica oleracea) Vic. only
• Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa)
• Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
• Leek (Allium ampeloprasum) Vic. only
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Check variety
• White & Brown Onions (Allium cepa)
• Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) Vic. only
• Snow, Snap & Shell Peas (Pisum sativum)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris) Vic. only
• Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
• Swedes/Turnips (Brassica campestris) Vic. only

These tigerellas are almost done for the year. I hope I get a few more ripe before the plants are finished

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants

In warmer areas you might try a few of the plants from last month, but don’t be surprised if they don’t do as well as you’d hoped. Still, I do go by the philosophy that you should plant a little bit of anything that will survive, because there’s no predicting which year they will do better than anything that’s supposedly “in season”.

The intensity of my longing to be out in the garden has lately reached fever pitch.  And it really does feel like a fever or an illness in some ways, the kind that stays with you a long time and drags down your energy level and leaves you feeling bored and antsy and miserable, unable to do much while you wait for your body to heal or the magic cure to take effect.

But so far, that’s like trying to locate a cure for the common cold.

Growing sprouts in Mason jars won’t cure it.  Nor will watching the progress of a few lettuce seedlings on the dining room table.

Making out a garden plan and organizing the seed drawer only suppress the worst symptoms for a few days.  Soon the organized ranks of seeds start whining at you from their corner, like spoiled children who haven’t gotten what they wanted when they wanted it.

“February 1st!” cries one of the dividers every time you glance in their direction, with “February 15th!” not far behind.

Seed catalogs seem at first to help, but the hurt is merely transferred to your bank balance.  Besides, eventually the seed orders will have all been placed, and returning to the enticing pages of the catalogs may merely bring about the desire to unwisely and unnecessarily spend a little more.  (Note to self:  this applies to you, Meredith.)

Going through old harvest photographs will only exacerbate the symptoms, I discovered today.  By the time I reached the photo above, I just had to stop myself from going any further.

“This is madness, Meredith,” I whispered, only glancing far enough down the thumbnail-sized archives to realize that I couldn’t stand the torture of mouthwatering shots of heirloom tomatoes piled in haphazard fashion on my counter top, a bounty of unique shapes and colors that by late August I was treating oh-so-casually.

According to the calendar produced by the university for this region, I could be direct sowing peas, mustard, radishes, and spinach and putting in the cabbage transplants by now.  The weather is not cooperating, however.

My organic cabbage transplants were delayed by the massive snow storm that fouled up the shipping all over the continent last week, and my early pea planting probably didn’t survive two successive freak snows here.  In my heart, I like to believe that they made it through on nothing but my warm thoughts and will sprout forth any day now; but in my head, that seed is wasted, and I’ll need to resow again soon — definitely before March 15th, if I’m going by the calendar.

When I saw blue skies this morning, I thought I’d sow a little spinach at the very least.  Maybe some radishes, too.  It was a bit chilly when I went outside, but I hardly expected to find the top inch to two inches of the ground frozen, crusty and inflexible.

I stared at it in disbelief, feeling betrayed.

This is a region of South Carolina that is supposed to be even warmer on average than where I lived in Atlanta, for goodness’ sake.  It is February 17th, and I am ready to get my hands dirty now.

Now.

I know I sound like a silly brat, but perhaps God sits up and notices when you put something in italics.  (Wouldn’t it be wonderful if it were true?  I’d write the longest italicized piece in history.)

The strangest part is, I was less impatient a month ago.  You’d think the intensity would dissipate as we approach the end of the dormant season, not grow into a fierce tempest within the core of my being.  Wouldn’t you?

And here I’d always heard that gardening was supposed to make one learn patience.  I guess that only applies when one is actually gardening, and not during the off-season.

Or maybe it’s just me.

The Sweet Basil we most commonly encounter is, along with its cousins, a member of the Mint family (Lamiaceae), which is easily deduced from the square stems of the plants. It is an annual, and is grown for its pungent foliage, which is reminiscent of aniseed in flavour. It is commonly grown until it flowers before harvest, as the aromatic oils are at their peak during this period. While it may be tempting to allow the plant to grow back after cutting, I personally think it best to remove the plants and start another crop in their place. If you have, as I consistently advise, planted successive crops a couple of weeks apart throughout the growing season, you should have no shortage of Basil.

Basil will not tolerate frost, and storing cut Basil in the fridge is a surefire way to test its dislike of the cold. I find it best to treat the stems as cut flowers if they are not to be used immediately, and stick them in a jug of water until you want them. But the soft leaves will not last long, and I have included a couple of recipes for pesto (including a vegan version for non-dairy fans) which will allow for longer term storage of the herb. It can also be dried for use in the cooler months, however there is a significant loss of flavour over time. To dry the herb either hang whole stems upside down or place individual leaves in a cloth or paper bag and keep in a cool dry place. When the leaves are crispy to touch, store them in an air tight container in a cool dark place until required.

Cultivation of Sweet basil is relatively easy as long as you follow these simple rules:

1. Keep away the snails, they love the stuff
2. Keep them well watered, they will not tolerate drought
3. Feed fortnightly with liquid fertiliser, they are very hungry oh, and
4. Keep sowing every couple of weeks for a continuous supply

Basil can be easily grown from seed where they are to grow, and germination will occur after a week, when the distinctive cotyledons will appear. Some gourmet restaurant serve these alone as garnish, and you could easily do so, if you are very hungry, but the plants will not recover after removing the “seed leaves”. Punnets of seedlings are usually pretty cheap, I tend toward the “massed sowing” punnets, which have about fifty or more seedlings each,  rather than the advanced plants some nurseries sell, just for value.

I sowed some seed in to a small planter box, 20 cm x 60 cm. This was to allow better flexibility, as I can move the box around to avoid really hot days, as well as putting it close to the kitchen when it’s ready for picking. I have done the same this year with a mesclun mix of salad leaves, and Rocket (Eruca sativa).

Basil planter before harvest

I have been getting by just eating the thinnings, as the plants are growing so close together, a meal’s harvest barely makes a hole in the coverage, as you can see:

After harvest. The gaps will be gone in a couple of days

So, basil is really easy to grow. Full sun, lots of water, fed regularly, and you should have enough pesto to feed la familia. Buon appetito.

Vegan Pesto (dairy free)

Ingredients:

• 1 large bunch of basil (about 3 cups, loosely packed)
• 2-3 large cloves garlic
• 1/2 cup raw pine nuts
• 3/4 – 1 tsp salt, or to taste
• 6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 1/4 cup nutritional yeast

Preparation:

Place all ingredients except the olive oil and nutritional yeast into a food processor. Process to a finely ground consistency. Add olive oil and process again, until smooth and creamy. If desired, add nutritional yeast and process again until creamy. Serve immediately/store in fridge for up to 5 days/freeze up to 6 months.

Pesto Alla Genovese

Ingredients

• 250-500g basil leaves
• 1/2 cup flat Parsley leaves
• 100g pine kernels
• 3 cloves garlic, chopped
• 1 tsp granular sea salt
• 50g freshly grated Parmesan
• 50g freshly grated Pecorino/Romano
• 100-200ml extra virgin olive oil

Method

1. Wash & dry basil. Heat fry pan on medium heat and toast the pine kernels 2-3 minutes. Set aside.
2. If using a mortar, pound garlic & salt to soft mush.
3. Pound in pine nuts & work in the basil leaves, 2-3 at a time, with a circular movement of the pestle, until all is reduced to a silky paste (Can freeze at this point for up to 6 months)
4. Work in cheeses, then beat in olive oil with wooden spoon until you have a thick, dense sauce. Add more or less oil depending on the texture you like

OR

1. If you’re using a processor, drop all the ingredients in the same order and process until smooth
2. To store the pesto, pour into a jar, float a layer of olive oil on top, cover and refrigerate for up to a week, or freeze at this point for a month or two at most. Ice cube trays are good for small portions to add to cooking.

While it’s not a great time to start a whole new garden, it’s still a good idea to keep planting certain short-term, annual, fast growing crops, like Beans, salad and stir-fry greens and Basil, just so you don’t run out. Also, some things, like Carrots,  you will need to check on the variety to be sure they are the right type to be planted at this time of year.

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• French & Butter beans (Phasaeolus vulgaris)
• Runner Beans (Phasaeolus coccineus)
• Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea) Check on variety
• Carrots (Daucus carota)
• Chinese broccoli (Brassica rapa) Not Bok Choi/Pak Choi
• Endives/Chicory (Chicorium endivia)
• Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
• Herbs (various)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa) Check on variety
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum)
• Onions (Allium cepa)
• Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Rocket (Arugula sativa)
• Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris)
• Salsify (Scorzonera hispanicus)
• Sunflowers (Helianthus annum)
• Swedes/Turnips (Brassica campestris)

Successive sowing of Basil, Rocket and a Salad mix provide fresh tasty food all through Summer. In containers, you can move them closer to the kitchen as they are ready for harvest!

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants!
• Brown Onions (Allium cepa)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
• Potato (Solanum tuberosum)
• Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) Small cherry varieties will give most reward
• Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
• Cucumber (Cucumis sativa)
• Cape Gooseberries (Physalis peruviana)
• Pumpkin/Squash/Marrow (Cucurbita spp.) Check variety, some pumpkins it’s too late for now

If you haven’t filled in my garden poll, please give me your input. I will publish the results next week, and focus on posting about the most popular plants sooner!

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• French & Butter beans (Phasaeolus vulgaris)
• Runner Beans (Phasaeolus coccineus)
• Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
• Beetroot (Beta vulgaris)
• Broccoli (Brassica oleracea)
• Brussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea) Tassie ONLY
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
• Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea)
• Carrots (Daucus carota)
• Chinese cabbages (Brassica rapa)
• Corn; Sweet (Zea mays) NSW and Victoria ONLY
• Endives/Chicory (Chicorium endivia)
• Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
• Herbs (various)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
• Pea (Pisum sativum) Cool areas: may not be worth the space/trouble in hot places
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Rocket (Arugula sativa)
• Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris)
• Salsify (Scorzonera hispanicus)
• Sunflowers (Helianthus annum)

Try growing Rainbow Silverbeet for colour in the garden and the kitchen

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants!
• Brown Onions (Allium cepa)
• Herbs (various)
• Cabbages, Broccoli, etc (Brassica oleracea)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
• Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
• Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
• Cucumber (Cucumis sativa)
• Watermelons (Citrullus lanatus)
• Cape Gooseberries (Physalis peruviana)
• Pumpkin/Squash/Marrow (Cucurbita spp.)

Decent sized Pumpkin seedlings can still go in if you're quick!

The more you eat, the more you fart

The more you fart, the better you feel,

So eat some beans with every meal

- Anon

It’s not often I will start with poetry, and even more rarely with such vulgar verse as this, but the well known poem is probably the single best poem about a vegetable ever conceived. While the prudish Americans may have toned it down with their version “Beans beans, the musical fruit”, the essential nature of the bean is known throughout the world in one form or another.

Historically, the word “bean” applied only to the seeds of the Broad Bean (Vicia faba), which in typical botanical fashion is actually now considered a pea, and not a bean at all. After the discovery of the New World, however, the use of the term came to mean any of a variety of legume seeds, and this application still applies today. Many genera contain “beans” of some description, and common names of a number of food plants contain the word, also. Garbanzo Beans (Cicer arietinum), Soy Beans (Glycine max), Mung, Azuki & Rice Beans (Vigna spp.) are all leguminous plants which contain actual beans. Coffee (Coffea arabica), Cocoa (Theobroma cacao) and Vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) also produce fruits known as beans, but none of these are actually leguminous, merely produce “bean shaped” seeds.

Interestingly, the green beans most of us know, along with Chocolate and Vanilla, were unknown to Eurasia before Columbus. Which means that many dishes we consider traditionally European or Asian were unknown 500 years ago. Borlotti Beans, Red Kidney Beans, Navy Beans (the basis of tinned Baked Beans), Cannelini Beans, and Snake Beans, to name a few well known varieties, were entirely absent until relatively recently from European and Asian cuisine.

The French Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris), as it is sometimes called, is the source of all these varieties of culinary bean, and despite the name, is native to the Americas, and were widely cultivated by Native Americans prior to European invasion. An interesting method of companion planting was practised using Beans, Corn (Zea mays) and Squash (Cucurbita spp.), by which corn and beans would be planted together in small clumps, with Squash plants growing between. The Beans twined up the Corn, and provided nitrogen to the soil via nitrogen fixing bacteria, while the squash trailed on the ground between the clumps, and acted as a deterrent to pests. The famous agricultural method is known as the Three Sisters.

Also in the genus Phaseolus are the Lima Bean (P. lunatus), Tepary Beans (P. acutifolius), the perrenial Scarlet Runner Bean (P. coccineus), and little cultivated Polyanthus Beans (P. polyanthus). All are from the Americas, though far less cultivated globally than P. vulgaris. Both dried and unripe (green) beans are used for culinary purposes, the leaves are also edible, and the stems make useful straw for fodder or garden mulch.

All species and varieties of beans are best sown directly into the graden where they are to grow. The seeds are large, and transplanting causes a great deal of disturbance to young plant roots. Beans also have a tendency to push themselves out of the soil with their emerging root (radicle) at germination, so they should be planted quite deeply. A general rule is to plant them about twice as deep as the width of the seed itself. Don’t worry, they will have plenty of energy to come up, and you should see the first signs of germination in seven to ten days. Most beans need something to climb up, and they are twining plants, meaning they do best with vertical stems, wires or strings to twirl around, they don’t need horizontal support, unlike Peas (Pisum sativum). The exception are Bush type Beans, which produce their pods on low growing bushes, which may need staking if plants get too heavily laden towards harvest.

Not too many pests in the garden, except the usual suspects of snails and aphids, for which the usual precautions should be taken. Planting them all through spring and summer in small batches will give continuous harvests of green beans through the summer, and if you like, dry beans in the autumn, depending on which varieties you plant. Shell Beans, or Horticultural Beans, are fully grown beans that are eaten fresh, that is, before drying out. While certain varieties are selected for each of these purposes, every variety will make a passable substitute for any of the possible harvests. The plants will fix nitrogen, as I said, but this won’t be released into the soil until after the plants have finished for the year.

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• French & Butter beans (Phasaeolus vulgaris)
• Runner Beans (Phasaeolus coccineus)
• Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
• Beetroot (Beta vulgaris)
• Broccoli (Brassica oleracea)
• Brussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
• Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea)
• Carrots (Daucus carota)
• Celery (Apium graveolens)
• Chinese cabbages (Brassica rapa)
• Choko/Chayote: whole fruit (Sechium edule)
• Corn; Sweet (Zea mays)
• Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
• Herbs (various)
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
• Maize (Zea mays)
• Onion (Allium cepa)
• Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
• Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa)
• Pea (Pisum sativum)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Rocket (Arugula sativa)
• Salsify (Scorzonera hispanicus)
• Sunflowers (Helianthus annum)

Seedlings/plants

• All the above listed plants!
• Artichokes; Jerusalem (Helianthus tuberosus)
• Artichokes; Globe (Cynara cardunculus)
• Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
• Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
• Potato (Solanum tuberosum)
• Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
• Brown Onions (Allium cepa)
• Herbs (various)
• Cabbages, Broccoli, etc (Brassica oleracea)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
• Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
• Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
• Capsicum/Chilli (Capsicum annuum/C. frutescens)
• Cucumber (Cucumis sativa)
• Watermelons (Citrullus lanatus)
• Rockmelon/canteloupe/honeydew (Cucumis melo)
• Cape Gooseberries (Physalis peruviana)
• Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
• Pumpkin/Squash/Marrow (Cucurbita spp.)

Time to plants Citrus trees!

It’s also a good time of year to plant Citrus trees, have a look around at your local nurseries, and see if you can find something interesting, like a Tangelo, or a Blood Orange, especially if there’s already a Lemon tree in the neighbourhood. And don’t forget to keep planting continuously, a little at a time,  for a continuous supply of food!

Cover of the original 1978 edition

The book itself is a primer for growing plants from seed. For those with no experience whatsoever, it runs through the general basics of seed propagation, setting up, germinating, growing on seedlings, as well as some general background on gardening and botanical naming of plants. Some of the information, (mostly plant names), is out of date in this edition, but it’s easily searched in other books which will list the synonyms of those plants which have had name changes in recent years.

But the most useful aspect of the book is as a visual reference guide to individual plants. The majority of the book consists of page after page of plant descriptions for both ornamental and edible plants (and some weeds), including a photograph of the mature plant, or some detail, such as flowers or seed pods, to allow for easy identification. And most useful and unusual, it has photographs of germinating seedling of every species described. This is absolutely fantastic for the novice propagator, especially if things are sown direct into the ground, as there is no chance of pulling out your crops by mistake, thinking they are weeds. A simple look at the book will help you pick out your corn seedlings from grassy weeds, and your beetroot from dock.

Sample page from the book

Details of optimum propagation conditions, including temperatures (though they are listed in farenheit) and cultural conditions in the garden are included in each description. Basically, this is one of the most useful gardening books I have ever bought, and would not give up my copy for quids. Well worth laying your hands on a copy, or at least having a peek at their online version if you are in doubt about it’s value.

Five green thumbs up.

Seeds (direct into the garden)

• 

  "Blackie" an ornamental variety of Sweet potato which can be planted now in warmer climates like Sydney

  Runner Beans (Phasaeolus coccineus)

• Broad Beans (Vicia faba)
• Beetroot (Beta vulgaris)
• Broccoli (Brassica oleracea)
• Brussels Sprouts (Brassica oleracea)
• Cabbage (Brassica oleracea)
• Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea)
• Carrots (Daucus carota)
• Celery (Apium graveolens)
• Chinese cabbages (Brassica rapa)
• Choko/Chayote: whole fruit (Sechium edule)
• Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea)
• Herbs (various)
• Leeks (Allium ampeloprasum)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)
• Onion (Allium cepa)
• Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
• Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa)
• Pea (Pisum sativum)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Rocket (Arugula sativa)
• Salsify (Scorzonera hispanicus)
• Silverbeet (Beta vulgaris)
• Spinach (Spinacia oleracea)
• Sunflowers (helianthus annum)
• Turnips (Brassica rapa)

Seedling/plants

• Artichokes; Jerusalem (Helianthus tuberosus)
• Artichokes; Globe (Cynara cardunculus)
• Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)
• Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
• Potato (Solanum tuberosum)
• Comfrey (Symphytum officinale)
• Brown Onions (Allium cepa)
• Herbs (various)
• Cabbages, Broccoli, etc (Brassica oleracea)
• Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

Ginger plants, roots can be planted in warmer parts of the country now

Seeds (under glass)

• Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
• Zucchini (Cucurbita pepo)
• Capsicum/Chilli (Capsicum annuum/C. frutescens)
• Cucumber (Cucumis sativa)
• Watermelons (Citrullus lanatus)
• Rockmelon/canteloupe/honeydew (Cucumis melo)
• Cape Gooseberries (Physalis peruviana)
• Eggplant (Solanum melongena)
• Pumpkin/Squash/Marrow (Cucurbita spp.)

The list above is okay for Tasmania, too, with the exception of a few species which are susceptible to the colder conditions on the Apple Isle. Following the planting calendars from a week or two before now should solve the problem. As for Sydney, it’s a bit warmer up there, so some things, like Turnips, Kohl rabi, Leeks and cooler climate crops will not be suitable for planting now. This also goes for the plants, such as Asparagus and horseradish. However, the extra warmth means you can plant the “under glass” seeds above can be planted out in the garden. Because the summer growing season is longer, things like Sweet potato (Ipomoea batatas) and Ginger (Zingiber offiinale) may be planted now and grown successfully.

In cooler places, plants grown under glass, in containers, should be moved outside during the day to start toughening them up for life in the garden proper. Bring them in at night though, especially where there’s a risk of frost. Even where actual ice doesn’t form, the cold nights can still knock young seedlings around, though, as long as they survive, it may do them some good.

I say Dr, I’ve put broad beans in and they’ve gotten about 3″ out of the ground so far. Are they already putting nitrogen into the soil? Also, I was thinking of interplanting the rows of broad beans with parsnips. I put the parsnip seeds in deep seedling punnets in seed raising mix about 4 weeks ago and they’re about 1″ tall now with little coriander-like leaves. I know I’m supposed to have sown them directly to the beds but I’m a rebel and I’ll never ever be any good.

The first part of the question is related to Broad beans (Vicia faba) and their apparently magical ability to take nitrogen from the atmosphere. Nitrogen is often a limiting factor for plant growth, a major (or macro-)nutrient, it has an important role in the function of cells, especially as a component of DNA and proteins. A lack of nitrogen in the soil results in yellow, stunted plants and, obviously, poor harvests.

Nodules on Broad bean roots, dissected

The atmosphere on earth is almost 80% nitrogen, existing as a gas, which is unavailable to plants, who require nitrogen in the form of ammonium or nitrate in a liquid form their roots can absorb. Certain bacteria have adaptations that allow them to extract nitrogen for their own metabolism directly from the atmosphere, and certain plants have nodules on their roots which provide a habitat for these bacteria, and gain a supply of nitrogen from the bacteria in a sort of residential lease arrangement. The Broad bean is such a plant, botanically belonging to the Pea family, despite its common name, and like all peas and legumes forms nodules on its roots for Rhizobium species of bacteria. The nodules provide the bacteria with not only nutrients, but a strictly balanced oxygen level required by the Rhizobia to convert nitrogen gas into a soluble form. A major part of this is the presence of a plant version of haemoglobin, an iron rich chemical found in our own blood. If nodules are cut open (as above), they have a distinctive red colour as a result of the  haemoglobin.

Broad bean seedlings about the size of fluffy's

Some of the fixed nitrogen is used by the bacteria themselves, and any excess is available for the host plant to use. But it’s not really released into the soil, as it is taken up and metabolised by the plants. Plants of the size fluffy describes are possibly fixing nitrogen, extracting it from the air, but this is not being passed on to the soil. In fact, it’s not until the plants are finished and chopped back or removed that any excess will be available for other plants. And if plants are allowed to flower, and broad beans harvested, very little will be left in the roots to be available for the following crop. Broad beans and other legumes are often grown as a “green manure” crop, where plants are grown to full size, but cut down at flowering and incorporated into the soil to boost nutrient levels for heavy feeding crops that may follow, such as tomatoes.

A parsnip root (from http://tinyfarmblog.com/)

As for the Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa) seedlings, well, you naughty girl. The main reason parsnips are sown directly is because they are grown for their swollen tap root, which forms a starch storage organ for the plant. The usual life cycle of Parsnip is biennial, meaning in its first year, of growth, it forms the large underground starch storage, which then gets used the following year as an energy source for the production of flowers and seeds. When we eat it, we harvest at the end of the first growing season when the starch stores are at their highest. While the will form swollen roots no matter how they are planted, the chance of deformed or twisted roots is greatest if the plants have been transplanted, which makes for interesting shapes to pull out, to peel and to cook with. The other problem may be that the main root will not grow straight down, as it would naturally, and the plant will not have access to deeper water and nutrient sources as it grow. I suggest you tip out your little seedlings, wash all the growing media off them, and dig a trench between your broad beans as deep as the length of their roots, and lay them along it’s side, then cover them carefully with soil again. Not ideal, but they should be okay, and I don’t see any problem with planting them between your broad beans, it’s a great way to maximise your growing space.

I omitted summer squashes from this year’s garden. They take up a lot of space for something half my family doesn’t even like, and it just isn’t worth dealing with the cutworms (though I’m told this is a fairly easy pest to control). I also added a few herbs and tried a few varieties of other veggies that I’ve never grown before.

Here is the rundown of plants that went in on Memorial Day, March 29:

Tomato

• Champion VFNT (1) — A new variety to me. This plant was already 22 inches when I planted it, and it has several small fruit already starting and many other blossoms.
• Celebrity (1) — Also new to my garden, this plant was a leftover from my brother’s garden. About 11 inches when planted.
• Lemon Boy VFN (4) — Yellow tomatoes? I’ve seen them but never grew them until now. These plants are about 4-5 inches now.
• Tiny Tim (1) — A determinate variety bred to grow in pots or patio gardens, I added it to my garden to provide something to snack on while I work.
• The mystery variety (3) — These leftovers from my brother weren’t marked. We’ll see what they produce.

Pepper

• Lady Bell sweet (4) — I love sweet peppers in salads and stuffed. Haven’t grown this particular variety, but the nursery tells me it’s a traditional bell pepper that turns red when mature. They are about 6 inches tall now.
• Cubanelle sweet (1) — A long, tapered pepper I selected for its pale green color. It’s 10 inches and very vigorous-looking already.
• Anaheim hot (2) — I’m told these are related to Cubanelle but are mildly to moderately hot. These are for Mom, though she’ll probably complain they aren’t hot enough.

Eggplant

• Little Fingers (4) — I chose this variety rather than my customary Black Beauty eggplant because they can be harvested when quite small or allowed to grow larger. These plants are about 5-6 inches currently.

Broccoli

• Premium Crop (6) — Had I gotten around to ordering my seeds back in February, this is the broccoli I was going to grow. They are about 6 inches tall now and, as I recall, grow to about 2 feet by the time they head.

Cucumber

• Slicing (4) — Fairly standard salad cukes. I’ve always had good luck with these. They’re very small right now, just a couple inches tall, but they grow fast.

Lettuce

• Red Sails (6) — I buy this often but have never grown it. About 4 inches now, I’ll harvest the outer leaves as needed rather than waiting to cut the head.
• Deer Tongue (6) — Never heard of this heirloom variety until I saw it at the nursery. It looks like an attractive addition to a green salad.

Herbs, grown at Mom’s request

• Fernleaf Dill (1)
• Sweet Basil (2)
• Italian Parsley (2)

I sowed these seeds directly into the garden on May 30:

Spinach

• New Zealand (2 3-foot rows) — Good in hot weather, I have grown this in the past with good results. Very prolific.

Carrot

• Touchon (1 5-foot row) — I’m taking a chance on these long, slender carrots that may or may not do well in my rather dense, rocky soil.
• Minicor (1 5-foot row) — I expect a little more from these smaller roots.

Radish

• Fire ‘n Ice (1 3-foot row) — This was the only radish seed I could find yesterday. I’m not growing many because only Dad eats them.