En Gedi (also called Ein Gedi) is a fresh, green spot teeming with life on the western shore of the Dead Sea. Since prehistoric times, its freshwater springs have offered life and refreshment in a hot, rugged, brown region. Among its biblical mentions:

• Chedorlaomer, the king who defeated Sodom and captured Abraham’s nephew Lot, previously defeated an Amorite settlement at En Gedi [called Hazazon-tamar]. (Genesis 14)
• It was alloted as territory for the tribe of Judah – David’s tribe. (Joshua 15)
• David hid for a while in “the strongholds of En Gedi” when King Saul was hunting him. (1 Samuel 23:29)
• An En Gedi cave was the location of a famed encounter between David and King Saul in 1 Samuel 24. Saul, looking to “relieve himself” while hunting David, happened to use the very cave where David and his men were hiding. David snuck up to Saul and cut off a corner of his royal robe. Afterward, when David confronted the king and proclaimed his innocence, Saul lamented his own sin and departed. (The exact location of this cave is unknown. Textual clues suggest it was in the lower parts En Gedi. See 1 Sam. 24:2 – 3a, 22)

One of several waterfalls cascading from the cliff summit in En Gedi. One can swim in several refreshing, cold pools such as the one here.

Visitors to the National Park are virtually guaranteed to see wildlife up close. Common animals include the Ibex (a type of mountain goat) and the Hyrax (“rock badger”). Both of these animals are mentioned in the Bible.

A male Ibex, obviously accustomed to human presence.

"The high mountains are for the wild goats; the rocks are a refuge for the rock badgers." (Psalm 104:18)

"The rock badgers are a people not mighty, yet they make their homes in the cliffs." (Proverbs 30:26) There are actually two of them in the picture!

Tips for visitors:

• If you travel to Israel, consider spending one or two nights by the Dead Sea. There is a clean, safe hostel near the highway on the north side of En Gedi. For those with a little more money to spend, the kibbutz has a nice hotel on its grounds. Both have food options available.
• One can hike throughout the area. Trails are well marked and are assigned difficulty levels, along with estimated time for completion. For the National Park with its waterfalls, allow 1-1/2 or 2 hours to leisurely hike up, swim, take photos and return to the bottom. To get to a prehistoric temple with a spectacular Dead Sea view, allow several more hours’ time.
• For food options away from the hotel/hostel, there is a snack bar at the National Park entrance. Go across the highway toward the Dead Sea beach for restaurant options.

On Friday I drove down to Ein Gedi with Aaron, a friend of mine from school.

Waterfall -Ein Gedi

We decided to rent a car because for our purposes, public transportation would be a bit of a hassle.  The weekends here are on Friday and Saturday, and Israeli buses don’t run from Friday night to Saturday night (sundown to subdown) due to Shabbat, so we would lose a lot of flexibility in our return time.  Plus, despite the fact that the Dead Sea is really close, buses from Jerusalem to the region are not all that frequent (maybe 4 a day?), and sitting on the side of the road sweltering in the heat with our packs didn’t sound very fun.  In any case, the rental car was a GREAT idea.  A/C, m

usic… it feels like such a luxury.

View of the Dead Sea near Metzoke Dragot

Since we did have the flexibility of our own car we took our time getting down to Ein Gedi. Stopped and hiked up the cliffs of Qumran.
Qumran is where the Dead Sea scrolls were found.  The story goes that in 1947 a bedouin shepherd boy stumbled upon the scrolls up in a cave while searching for his lost goat.  Since personally I don’t think that he gets enough credit for this world-rocking discovery, (he is usually just referred to as a “bedouin shepherd boy”) I will post his name as well: Mohammed Ahmed el-Hamed. At the base there are some archaeological remains with trails.  But you can also climb up into the cliffs where there are ancient caves and… well lots of rocks I guess.  Of course we climbed up the cliffs.  It was probably the most strenuous hike that I have ever been on, given the ridiculous heat, the exposed rock, and all of the climbing and scrambling over boulders.  Believe me when I say that it was HOT.  We made it to the top of the cliffs, where you could keep going on a large, empty, beautiful plateau filled with sand dunes, and some old bullet casings and wire.  It was really amazing at the top.  It was so quiet and still.  It felt like we were the only people in the world.

Ibex in the parking lot of our hostel

We made it to the Ein Gedi hostel (the only alternative to the expensive Ein Gedi Kibbutz) in the afternoon and checked into our room.

Since it was getting late we decided to save Ein Gedi itself for the next day and instead go for a float in the Dead Sea, cover ourselves in mud, you know, the whole nine yards.

Then we drove to Ein Bokek for dinner (it was Shabbat and the evening so everything nearer was closed).  Definitely a nice drive, past Masada and everything.  Went to sleep early because we were both exhausted from the hiking in the desert heat.

The next morning we had breakfast at the hostel, packed up and went hiking in Ein Gedi.  We made it all the way to the top, saw the Dodim Cave, and then hiked across a ridge to Wadi Arugot.

On the way there were some gorgeous views, an ancient temple (just a pile of rocks basically), and Ein Gedi itself, like the actual spring.

Although it was getting late and the preserve was closing soon, we decided to try and make it part way up Wadi Arugot.  First of course, lemon popsicles (it was really, really hot).  Hiking up the Wadi, we made it pretty far, I think, I don’t really know since I have never been there before.  It was really gorgeous, we hiked up the actual stream the whole way, at times I climbed up the rocky banks to avoid a waterfall (which Aaron climbed right through) since I had my camera on me and I was guarding it to the best of my abilities.

As we were hiking we heard a helicopter overhead.  I think it passed by maybe twice before I really started paying attention.  I think I have become a little immune to the sound of helicopters from living in Washington, DC.  But by the third passing I became very aware of its presence, because it was getting louder each time.  We looked up to see a big, intimidating Israeli military copter with what looked like weapons mounted on it.  Each time it passed we grew more and more hesitant.  It became so loud as it got close that we actually had to stop and stare, kind of not believing that it was getting so close because it meant that something was definitely going on.

Rescue helicopter @ Wadi Arugot

Eventually, I was intimidated enough that I actually hid under a tree when it passed overhead.  It looked like something out of a movie, appearing right over the top of the cliff on one side of the Wadi and hovering over to disappear briefly.  Either they were searching for someone dangerous, a security concern, or someone was lost or hurt in the park.  We bumped into a park ranger (I think at least), who said that someone had fallen off a cliff, and it was dangerous to walk on the trail with the helicopter so close because it could cause a landslide, we should go with him.  So we followed him to an embankment in some rocks on the other side of the stream to an area where I guess he was rounding up hikers to herd out.  We sat and ate for a bit, the helicopter stopped.  Then we started on the hike back.

After a few minutes the copter came again.  I decided I wanted to get a picture, although I did feel a little paparazzi-ish.  Anyways I won’t discuss the incident further in detail, you can read the results from the newspaper story in my last post.  Lets just say  that, coming at the end of a physically exhausting but mentally rejuvenating weekend trip, it definitely made me appreciate life and the fact that I am taking full advantage of it.

I have a bunch of really beautiful pics from the hiking that aren’t posted here.  You can check them out at my picasa site (link to the right).

Tomorrow I am heading to Jordan, where I’ll get to see my Jordanian delegates from my ACYPL days, and Charles (who is coming in from Beirut).  Yay!

Continuing from my previous post about Petra, Jordan.

After waking up VERY early to cross the Jordan River into Israel via the Allenby Bridge Border,

We stopped at Qumran

Whereby in the mid 90s, in caves much like the one above, the Dead Sea Scrolls were found. These scrolls contain text from one of the earliest records of the Hebrew bible.

After looking around somemore, we headed for our first lunch in Israel!

We were served Mediterranean cuisine – salads, pita bread, grilled meats and olive oil – overlooking the Dead Sea.

Simply put, my belly was very very happy throughout the trip ((((:  hahas. I’d be, rather weirdly, going mad over the salad bar with its mountain of beet root and salads doused with olives and olive oils. Then I’d progress into the meats AND desserts till I was over the moon and stuffed everytime. VERY stuffed!

Next on the itinerary  was the Ein Gedi National Park where we saw

Hyraxes!

Completely unassuming and looking like larger versions of guinea pigs, these animal’s closest living relatives are…

*drumroll please*

The Elephant!

and I found it soooo cool (!!!) to be seeing them in the flesh!

(Yes, I’m weird. I know)

I learnt and read about them when I was younger (because I really really loved animals, not that I don’t love them still) and these hyraxes teethered on being an urban legend, of sorts.

Seriously, where would I be able to see such a creature in it’s natural habitat?!

My analogy would be like reading and coveting Jimmy Choos and Louboutins, then finally owning and wearing a pair. Its a very different feeling seeing ‘em shoes on glossies versus owning your first pair… Smelling it’s leather. Holding them in your hands. Watching the light and shadows change as you admire them from all angles. Feeling your feet slip into them ever so silkily. And walking in them for hours on end. Different.

Anyway, we could have spent a day there, trekking and soaking up the scenery. (And if you ever visit Ein Gedi, allocate at least half a day there! Find a nice, and relatively quieter spot and picnic there. Be mindful to pick up your litter though. And don’t take any hyraxes home!!!)

There were many more areas to climb and explore. However, we had other places to be.

But that did not stop me

From taking silly photos like this one!

Moving on,

While driving by the Dead Sea, you can’t help but notice how calm it is.

Upon closer inspection, and with prompting from our guide, you can clearly see that the water levels have receeded substantially.

According an article by the Washington Post in 2005, since 1955 the Dead Sea water levels have dropped 80 feet and shrunken to 2/3 it’s original size.

It shows :/

But that didn’t stop us from floating in it!

(the small person in a white sleeved shirt, with feet exposed, floating in the middle of the background is me. For the safety of my camera and to avoid any incidence of it getting rusty from the salinity of the air was kept away)

The experience of floating, which is easy peasy, is as though you are floating with the assistance of a life jacket, just that there is none. (:

Just remember to avoid all contact of the water with open wounds, eyes and mouth. NOT A PLEASANT EXPERIENCE.

Now, if you are wondering if pictures like these

(Source & Source)

Are actually true,

They are!!! Just that you can’t read for very long because your arms would get tired.

Also, there was a smaller pool by the side filled with Dead Sea mud, the kind that hotels nearby charge customers in the hundreds for spa treatments. I thought I’d fully utilize the opportunity and become…

muddy! (can you find me?)

Perhaps this photos is better? I’m in my shirt that is not-so-white anymore

Mud Monster!!!

The aftermath wasn’t pretty. But my swimsuit and shorts did survive.

Our drive back to the hotel got delayed by an accident up the road.

But finally after dinner, a group of us went to walk around the area.

Whereby their street crossing signs were amusing.

That evening, we met a man who fought in the Six Day War and recounted some of the events that took place.

It was interesting to listen as history came alive through this man. Although, through this trip, and perhaps especially so in Israel, everyone person has a different point of view about the country.

Ok. I hope that was enough eye candy for one entry. Will upload more soon! (and also cos this is only Day 1 in Israel!!!)

Israel is a great place to visit with kids. The country is small but varied. One day you can be bumping along in a jeep on the Golan Heights with a view into Syria and hear the stories of Israel’s capture of the area during the Six Day War in 1967. The next day you can be riding on a camel across the sands in the Negev, sleeping in a Beduin tent or under the stars. On the Mediterranean coast, in Akko there is a Crusader fortress that was buried in sand by Al Jazar in order to build his citadel that we can explore. At Masada there is a Herodian fortress in the desert later used by Zealots in the Great Revolt against the Romans. There is an opportunity to climb through caves more than two thousand years old, an experience out of “Raiders of the Lost Ark”. In Jerusalem you can walk around the Old City on the ramparts from the time of Suleiman the Magnificent, walk on paving stones that go back to Roman times and even the Second Temple period or walk underground along the length of the Western Wall.

Check out this article by Nancy Better in the May 17th edition of the New York Times, Taking the Kids – In Israel, With a Whiff of Adventure.

All the sites mentioned in the NY Times article can be incorporated into your personalized tour. There are less expensive accommodations for those on a tighter budget.

On April 24th, all of us (Oranim’s Long Term Program participants) were taken on a day trip to visit Ein Gedi, a tropical oasis & one of the most important reserves in Israel, located west of the Dead Sea, close to Masada.                       

We were taken on a short hike and got to see some very cute animals (an Ibex family & a Hyrax family).            

While some took a dip in the spring, the rest of us watched on and embraced the natural beauty surrounding us.

Afterwards, we headed to the Dead Sea for a few hours. 

The first time I went to the Dead Sea back in December, I took advantage of the inexpensive massages they offer in the spa. I decided to do it again and create my own tradition.  I’m sure it won’t be my last time visiting the Dead Sea…  After my massage I floated in the indoor pool until my legs began to burn and I had to get out… Rule #1 when going to the Dead Sea… DO NOT shave.  Bad idea.

Ein Gedi, rocks

Well, I just got back from a long and fun day of touring around these 3 sites around the Dead Sea area.

the first site was Qumran, which is attributed to the Essenes, and to them is attributed the writing of the Dead Sea Scrolls, one of the most prized discoveries of the 20th century (the scrolls were discovered in caves around Qumran)

This fascinating Jewish sect to many people sheds light on Jewish society in the time of Jesus, and gives an interesting insight into early Christianity in the sense that the Dead Sea Scrolls seem to presage the vision of Christianity.

The ancient historian Josephus said of the Essenes: “masters of their temper, champions of fidelity [and] very ministers of peace”

“They make light of danger, and triumph over pain by their resolute will. Death , if it comes with honor, they consider better than immortality”

A copy of the Rule of the Community scroll

The complete gallery of this tour with photos from all the sites is found here

Gerade erfahren, Info gleich an Euch: in Dresden Neustadt gibt es ab sofort Produkte aus Israel bei Old Abraham. Näheres in Kürze.

First, I’ll get out of the way what I’ve been trying to avoid, I’m coming home on Sunday. Don’t get me wrong, I miss Philadelphia, am anxious to see everyone at Gratz College, see my family and friends, but I’m not looking forward to leaving Eretz Yisrael. My experience here has been exactly what I wanted and I take home an amazing group of international friends, many who will be here for 2 years and more than happy to house me when I make my return trip.

Ok, so now onto the fun stuff. This past weekend I took my one, non-university organized trip. 2 friends and I rented a car and took the 2 hours drive down to the Dead Sea. We arrived Friday afternoon around 4:30 after getting lost in Jerusalem. We stayed at the Masada Hostel which was a very nice place right at the base of Masada. The plan was to go up to Masada and watch the sunset but none of us factored in Shabbat, which means the cable car is closed. We stocked up on food at the supermarket before beginning our trip so there was no need to pay 60 NIS for Shabbat dinner. We pigged out in the room on chocolate spread, pita, chumus, Bisli, PB&J, fruit and anything else we could find while watching the Olympics. A TV is really a luxury for me since there isn’t one in the dorms. We spent the night in the pool and relaxing.

Saturday was a jam-packed day. We woke up, ate the hotel breakfast and headed out. We intended to go to the Dead Sea but we kept seeing tour busses driving up to Masada. We headed up to the mountain (1/4 of a mile from the hostel) and discovered that Masada was open and that the cable car was running. We put on sunscreen; each grabbed our 1.5 liter of water and headed up the cable car. I had forgotten some of the history and so I was happy to watch a movie before heading up and then discovering the mountain for myself. I was more than excited when the movie mentioned Josephus Flavious because I learned about him with Dr. Davis in “Introduction to Classical Judaism” last Fall. Once on the mountain my first observation was the heat. People told me it was hot but there’s just no way to prepare for the kind of oppressive heat you face on Masada. As my friends and I walked through the sites on the mountain I experienced it differently than I had before. With the new knowledge I have gained from my classes at Gratz, I have a new understanding of the time, the situation and the history. After about 1 ½ hours we made our way down the mountain into our air conditioned car.

The rest of the day was typical for a visit to that area. We headed to the Dead Sea, applied mud and hopped into the water. After a scorching hour there we headed back to our hostel to shower, watch some more Olympics and get ready for dinner. When I visited this area the first time I was 6 years old and my family stayed on the Ein Gedi Kibbutz. I was excited to visit there. We stuck to our plan and ate dinner in the Guest House dining hall. The buffet was excellent.

We headed home and arrived back at the University around 11:00 pm. What none of us knew was that the Ein Gedi dinner had gotten us sick with food poisoning. Despite that setback the weekend was great!

After driving for what seemed like miles of desert and sand dunes, we spotted the Ein Gedi oasis located near the Dead Sea region. Although we didn’t have time to visit the Ein Gedi Nature Reserve, we were told there is a stream called Nahal David (David’s Stream) where it is believed David hid from the wrath of King Saul some 3,000 years ago.

View Larger Map

We spent our time at the Ein Gedi Spa which offered access to the Dead Sea, Dead Sea mud and warm sulfur pools. Despite their supposed theraputic value, I had a hard time sitting in the sulfur pools for more than the half of the recommended 10 minutes. It probably had a lot to do with the awful smell! The mud baths were fun but not particularly satisfying.

!!!

Floating in the Dead Sea was a unique experience as it was almost impossible not to float on the surface due to the high salt content. However, given the high concentration of salt in the water it was not recommended to stay longer than 15 minutes. Afterwards, it took a great deal of scrubbing with fresh water to eliminate the slippery residue left on the surface of my skin. You can’t actually swim in the Dead Sea as its density is about 10x that of the ocean. The area is one of the world’s primary health retreats for psoriasis, rheumatic and arthritic ailments.

For an entire week directly before digging in Megiddo, we did my least favorite form of traveling. We pinballed from one site to the next, spending a few short moments to take advantage of the photo op, learning a few historical facts, suffering heat exhaustion, and then piling back into the bus to do the same thing all over again at the next stop. We started in Eilat at the very bottom tip of Israel, drove all the way up Route 90 to Masada, where we read Josephus’ account of the mass suicide that occurred there, spent an hour playing around in the springs of Ein Gedi, which is just about 25 minutes down the road, and then dumped our luggage off at the Oasis Dead Sea Hotel. Then the highlight of my day came when we sank into the scalding, biting water of the Dead Sea. It was a beautiful experience, one I’d never had in my life.

The funny thing about buoyancy is that it demands a certain measure of balance. With my S-shaped spine, I had the time of my life trying to keep myself level in the water, because I kept rolling over to the right. It’s pretty tough battling forces that are not in your control. At any rate, Jessica and I came equipped with copies of the Biblical Archaeology Review and huge beach hats for our photo op at the lowest place on earth. There’s so much to say about the Dead Sea. The water is hot because the sun reflects the sun’s rays and has actually been used to create electricity. Sinkholes dot the coastline, threatening the north road, Route 90, and possibly the hotel area in the near future. A serious problem facing this region is the receding water levels. In 1923 researchers made marks on the rock wall of the Dead Sea, which is on the west side of the road. We were driving on a road that not only would have been covered by the sea in 1923 but was 15 ft below the 1923 water mark. We could sea the marks right there above our heads.

Next came Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found between 1947 and 1956. When I looked at the caves and the cliff walls, I couldn’t help but wonder at how miraculous it was that they were found. Sure it took 2000 years to find the Essene texts, but by the remoteness of the place, I could have thought they would be lost forever. It’s strange that it only took one shepherd to happen upon a cave, throw a rock inside of it as he searched for a lost sheep, and hear the breaking of pottery. That’s all it took for an entire drama to unfold that helped ensure the veracity of our current Biblical text and translation. The entire Isaiah scroll is on display at the Israel Museum in the Shrine of the Book.

Hitting the road early after some pastry and coffee reenforcement, Shirley, her friend Noa and myself were off to the Dead Sea. This lifeless body of water rests well below sea level, at the lowest point on dry land. Stretching out in the desert area between Israel and Jordan, the salt levels in the sea are so high that no life can be sustained, hence the very appropriate name. But just because fish can’t swim here doesn’t mean humans stay away. The Dead Sea is one of Israel and Jordan’s most popular attractions.

About two hours from Tel Aviv, we made our way southeast across Israel. Since the country occupies a space smaller than the state of New Jersey, most sights lie easily within a day’s drive. First, we drive the Jerusalem. Before getting in the car, Shirley had warned me that we had to drive through (or rather right next to) the West Bank, though she assured me we’d be very safe. Upon passing through Jerusalem, I understood why: A large stone wall barricades the area, barbed wire winding along the top. An approximately 6-foot wide sand strip runs next to this wall, and Israeli security frequently patrols the strip, searching for footprints. If any are found, a chain of crisis security measures are immediately put in place. Pretty impressive.

Once past Jerusalem, the horizon devolves into wide open spaces of sand. This is the desert, sustaining little life for miles save small and infrequent Bedouin communities, making a meager living and offering camel rides to tourists driving by. Shirl then told me there is an entire division of the military devoted to tracking down lost camels, as camel-vehicle collisions are a real problem in the area. Camel crashes? Toto, I don’t think we’re in New York City anymore …

The roller coaster sand dunes changed to jagged canyons about and hour later, with another set of high cliffs sitting on the distant horizon in Jordan, Israel’s rather friendly Arab neighbor. Soon, the milky blue waters of the Dead Sea rose into view. Their opacity reminded me of those I saw in Iceland a few years back, and for good reason: the high mineral content of both waters lends the cloudy color.

When we got out of the car at the beach at Ein Bokek, I nearly lost my breath. The temperature had soared to a balmy 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees F). A dry heat, it was nonetheless oppressive, rising to 43 C (109 F) within an hour. With water, water everywhere, you’d expect a splashy retreat from the heat. Not when the water’s full of minerals and bubbling hot sulfur Springs! Staring across teh sea at Jordan, I gingerly tiptoed in for my first salty swim. Well, not really swim. More like float. The huge concentration of salt and minerals means bodies just rise to the surface, and I had a grand old time posing for the camera flailing my legs and arms above the water. Look ma! No hands! As warm as a freshly drawn bath, the water feels oily to the touch, and makes you instantaneously aware of any cuts or scrapes known or unknown, rubbing salt in every wound. At the risk of to much information, you even feel the salt’s presence “down there.” Floaters must be aware of two major dangers: 1) You can actually drown if you roll onto your stomach and are too weak to stand up, and 2) The salt and the heat leach water from your body, threatening dehydration. For this reason, we only spent about 15 minutes in the water before drying off. I had already burned the soles of my feet (I searingly experienced why water should stay far away from eyes and contacts and couldn’t find my flipflops) and experienced the faint inducing desert heat, so we packed up and drove off to Ein Gedi spa.

The first resort on the Dead Sea, Ein Gedi originally lay at the yellow and blue shoreline. However, rapid evaporation — the sea is actually two bodies of water because of such, one of which is predicted to dry up in my lifetime — has left the resort perched on dry land about a ten minute walk from the waters. The resort features a refreshing pool area, sulfur springs and a huge mud pit, all of which we took advantage of. A paltry $18 entrance bought one of the most relaxing afternoons on the trip. After sitting poolside to cool off, we got down ‘n dirty with the mud, known for its therapeutic properties, especially in treating skin disorders. Slathering the thick, black wet clay all over yourself is not only good for your body; it’s great play for your mind. Of course, we go silly with the mushy muck and posed for some of the best pics of the trip.

Shirley and I decided to dunk in the sulfur pools before heading home. Growing up with Florida vacations, I am already intimately acquainted with that foul sulfur smell. For those of you that have never had the pleasure of sulfur wafting into your nostrils, it smells like farts. Or rotten eggs. Or farts caused by eating rotten eggs. It’s nasty. And here I was, about to willing dip my entire body (and nice black bikini) into a vat of hot farts. Ah, the things we do for beauty. My bikini still smells four days later.

Fart-smell free and incredibly refreshed, we headed back to Tel Aviv, where, tired for the long day in the unbearable heat, we grabbed a quick dinner of stuffed veggies and couscous and called it a night.

[08.06.22] Dead Sea

Eae pessoas,

Bom, como vocês puderam notar a frequência dos posts tem baixado. Uma parte se deve à minha vagabundagem, mas a outra talvez seja pela rotina que pouco a pouco se instaura na vida aqui, o que faz com que coisas que até de fato são interessantes para quem enxerga de fora, passem desapercebidas para mim, que já estou acostumado com a “batida”.

Mas enfim, no findi de 22/05 fui para Ein Gedi, que é um parque natural pertinho do Mar Morto, no meio do deserto da Judéia. Mas o incrível é que pelo meio daqueles morros de pura pedra, sem uma vegetação, corre um riozinho, que forma umas 3 ou 4 cascatas. OK, nada comparável com a Cascata do Caracol ou coisa similar, mas tendo em conta que é no meio do deserto, é uma coisa admirável.

Bom, daí naquela sexta saímos cedinho de casa e nos tocamos para lá. Caminhamos um monte, vimos as cachoeiras e tomamos banho em uma muito legal, que forma tipo uma furna, com água muito limpa e transparente, com uma caverna ao lado. É meio surreal ficar tomando banho de rio no meio do deserto, mas é muito tri, matar aquele calor na água. Daí ficamos uma meia hora ali, relaxando e curtindo esse contraste. Muito tri! As fotos estão no meu Picasa.

No findi seguinte foi aniversário do Leo, daí fizemos uma festa-surpresa para ele, que caiu bem direitinho e não desconfiou de nada, hehehe. FIzemos lá no Parque Carmel, aqui em Haifa mesmo. Na eterna busca pelo churrasco possível, resolvemos partir para outra abordagem, e já que carne é uma coisa complicada aqui e churrasqueira mais ainda, fizemos uns espetinhos de xixo, que fica mais apropriado para as churrasqueiras rasinhas daqui. E não é que ficou bom, deu para matar um pouquinho da saudade de churras. Mas claro que a lágrima pelo costelão 12h, pelo vazio e pela picanha ainda corre, mas essa terá que esperar mais um pouco ainda. As fotos do aniver estão aqui no Picasa do Pacheco.

Já na semana passada, foi feriadão aqui em Israel por causa do Shavuot. Daí aproveitamos e fomos para Eilat o Bidi, Zé, Pacheco, Maurício e eu. Foi muito tri para relaxar naquele mar horrível, hehehe. Dessa vez comprei máscara e snorkel, daí dava para mergulhar e ver os peixes e corais melhor, realmente é muito lindo. Para completar, fiz um curso de mergulho, aprendi a operar todos os equipamentos e tal. Agora estamos pilhados para num próximo feriado ir no Sinai, no Egito, onde dizem que é ainda mais bonito de mergulhar que Eilat. Se Eilat já é do jeito que vi, nem quero ver o que é o Sinai…. Algumas fotos da nossa viagem lá no Picasa do Pacheco.

Para completar, uma ótima notícia, que eu só acreditei quando fechou tudo: o meu pai finalmente decidiu vir aqui me visitar! Ele e a Vera vêm no finalzinho de setembro para ficar uma semana. Vai ser muito legal, já vou começar a montar o roteiro turístico, agora que Israel já está quase na palma da mão, hehehe.

Abraços,
Bruno

Below: A typical, cobbled walkway in Jerusalem’s Old City

Israel’s ridged landscapes, helpful people, and amazing history fueled this ten day tour of the Holy Land.

One of my most memorable moments took place high above Jerusalem’s ancient, cobbled streets. A cool breeze wafted the smell of fresh baked challah (Hebrew bread) to the roof deck where I slept as the sun’s first rays glistened in the sky. The best view of Jerusalem’s Old City was seen from my “bedroom” where I had camped on a thick foam mat for the night. This goes to show that not having funds for luxury hotels sometimes works out in a traveler’s advantage, being able to experience the authentic feel of this location from a cheap rooftop terrace. Church bells chimed in unison, hours after the Muslim calls to prayer had floated through the even earlier air. As I took all of this in, I watched a flock of birds fly in unison among bell towers and hills to the music of the chimes. Jerusalem is such a spiritual place, where Muslims, Christians and Jews all share a piece of history and pride for their religion. During my tour of the city, I concentrated on the places which are sacred to the Christians and have written in detail about them below.

Above: Pieces of Jerusalem’s skyline from the roof deck at sunrise.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem

This cathedral’s theme is the crucifixion of Christ, since some believe this ground was the spot where Jesus’ suffering on the cross and death took place. Once a bare hill called Calvary, there now stands one of the most glorious churches in all of Israel. Arriving in the morning before the crowds, I saw a side of the church that many tourists don’t experience during the day. Choir voices echoed between the heavy walls and reverberated through my body, giving the place of worship a fitting chill and adding to the ambiance of sorrow.

Above: Inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre

As is common in Jerusalem, historians have tried to pinpoint every last detail of the Passion History (Jesus’ last days on earth) by claiming certain areas of ground for specific events. For example, some say that this church was where He was buried or that another walkway a few yards away is spot is where He fell to his knees when carrying the cross to Golgatha. Although no one can tell the exact location of Jesus’ every step, I appreciated the monuments and chapels built in honor of these historical events. Having said this, many believe that the Church of the Holy Sepulchre is built upon the exact ground where Jesus was buried in Joseph of Arimathea’s tomb. Just to the right of the entrance is a relic many consider to be the stone that sealed the tomb after Jesus’ burial. It’s called the Angel’s Stone.

Above: The Angel’s Stone

Still other Christians believe they have found a different site of the crucifixion and burial of Jesus, which is called the Garden Tomb. This was supposedly the garden of Joseph of Arimathea where Jesus was buried. A hill that looks like a skull and is considered to be Golgatha is close by.

Whether you believe this site is the exact spot where Jesus was crucified or buried, it is certainly close to the historical area. And what matters the most is that the cathedral (and Garden tomb) both do an amazing job of portraying, through famous paintings and statues, the life sacrificed and holiness of it all.

Garden of Gethsemane and Mt. of Olives, Jerusalem

Above: Looking out onto the Mount of Olives from Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock.

Behind the Old City area of Jerusalem rises a hill that is almost too steep for a sane person to hike in the hot Israel heat. But of course, mixing adventure with the historical tour, we decided to hike up instead of succumbing to the Israeli cab driver’s pleas.

From the peak of the hill, one overlooks an olive grove, groomed and trimmed now by a city gardener. Back in Bible times this area was the garden where Jesus went with his disciples after the Last Supper in an upper room of the city. He knelt among the trees and prayed, knowing what he was about to endure. At dawn in this location, Jesus was captured by Roman soldiers and his trial began.

Above: Ancient olive trees in the Garden of Gethsemane

Above: Sign outside the groomed garden

Sea of Galilee/ Golan Heights

About two hours north of Jerusalem lies the Sea of Galilee, a popular pilgrimage area for those tracing the steps of Jesus and the area of many miracles reported in the Bible. (Matthew 4: Disciples from the Sea of Galilee; Matthew 15:29: Miracles; Mark 1: Jesus’ baptism and preaching at the Sea of Galilee.)

Enamored by the beauty of the lake and the many orchards and hills surrounding it, I decided to organize a biking and camping trip around the area. The only problem was, we had no bikes or tents! Working out to our advantage, as usual, a local hotel owner had a tent that someone had accidentally left the week before. He let us borrow the tent for free and rent bikes from him as well, so we were off for a sweaty ride from Tiberius, on the lake’s west side, past Magdala (the city where Mary Magdalene lived), crossing the Jordan River to the north, and landing on the upper east side’s beach for sunset. Along the way, we were able to glean in mango vineyards and pick left-over bananas, still on the trees as 10% of the crop that Jewish farmers leave for those in need. Read about the Old Testament law by clicking here. With the prices in Israel ($9+ for a loaf of bread and $12 for a carton of grapes in touristy areas) we considered ourselves poor and enjoyed the fruit! There were even spots marked on our tourist map as “fruit picking areas” so that the orchards were easy to locate.

Day two began with a breakfast sandwich from a roadside deli, consisting of all-beef franks (due to no pork being eaten by Jews), eggs, hummus, and tomatoes. This is where I started to learn that hummus is to Israel as ketchup is to the United States. It turns out, this fuel was much needed, since we decided to do a climb that “is difficult for the cars to even do” according to one local we met along the way. East of the Sea of Galilee is an area called Golan Heights, where vineyards and ancient temples overlook the sea below. After every curve we’d stop for more sun-warmed water, stored in the bike basket, but there would always be an even steeper grade ahead, glowing from the sun’s heat.

Above: Chugging warm water on the long road up to Golan Heights

A few hours before sunset, we were drenched with sweat and decided it was beer-thirty, no matter what price we’d have to pay. After our thirst forced us to sample some locals beers-wink, wink- our plan of biking a few more hills fizzled and we started asking where the nearest campsite was. Luckily, the restaurant was connected to a rest area and they allowed us to pitch the tent right in their side yard, behind some trees and close to the fire pit. We feasted on our packed lunch of avocados, tomatoes, pitas, hummus, peaches and tuna on crackers. (We may have budgeted for the beer, but there was no way we could afford the restaurant food. Great priorities, huh? Our picnic turned out to be just as delicious though, after the all day ride.) Night number two came, with no blankets or camping mats to lay on, but the view of the Sea of Galilee through the tent’s mesh window was enough.

Left: Sea of Galilee from Golan Heights on east side of lake. Yes, we biked that whole way!

On the third morning, we continued the climb, legs aching and butts bruised from the bike seats. When we actually reached the summit, a local, young Jewish couple started talking to us as they filled up their 4×4 (a common mode of transport in these back hills) with gas. When inquiring about the local winery, they were excited to not only give us directions to the Chateau Golan Winery, but also to call on their cell and reserve us a free tour and wine tasting. The Chateau Golan, in a very secluded woodsy area up on the mountain, is a boutique winery that picks their grapes by hand and stores the wine in oak barrels. We toured and tasted, but rushed back to the bikes for some carrots and hummus, needing something substantial before biking back down to the lake, a few kilometers below. It’s a good thing the rest of the way was a breeze, coasting quickly down the ridge with a view of the mountains in the peripheral and the lake below.

Above: Cellar at Chateau Golan Heights Winery

The very day we finished the epic bike tour, we didn’t stop to rest, but instead hopped on the last bus out of town back down to Jerusalem. We rested on our spongy mats on the roof deck one last night and felt like royalty to have something other than the tent tarp under our tired bodies. We’d wake early and move on to the Dead Sea the next day.

Ein Gedi/ Dead Sea

Above: Dead Sea’s salt-covered rocks

The lowest point on earth, it is easy to understand why Ein Gedi smells of earthy sulfur and feels like a dry sauna. In the middle of this barren, brown desert appears an oasis of water, sparkling green and showcasing a pink reflection of the mountains that tower around it.

Many historians have written about this area near the Dead Sea, including Josephus Flavius and writers of the Old Testament. We decided to investigate this area by hiking up to fresh water pools and the caves where David hid from Saul in the wilderness (I Sam 23). We spotted a jujubee bush, which is thought to be the plant used in the crown of thorns and we swam in fresh water pools which fed the fluorescent foliage.

This entire natural playground overlooks the Dead Sea. A quick dip in this salt-saturated water tingled my skin, and reminded me I shouldn’t have shaved my legs that morning! Swimmers do not even need to work to bob above the water and they will notice that the rocks below their floating bodies are caked with large chunks of salt crystals, giving the base of the shore a white glow. If one happens to get some water in their eyes, they’ll be momentarily blinded until someone brings them fresh water to pour rapidly down their face. (I know from experience!) The taste of the water on the lips is so salty that it tastes like some sort of chemical.

Above: A float in the Dead Sea, the lowest place on earth.

Masada

Above: Masada’s ancient ruins.

We’d heard that close by, Masada’s fortress on a mountain sat 1500 feet above the Dead Sea, so we hitch hiked 20 minutes from Ein Gedi to Masada for the grand tour.

Built by King Herod between 37-31 BC, the palace had a full bath house, lookout points and a store room that held years worth of grain and imported delicacies. From the inscriptions on bottles and near the storeroom doors, it is evident that Herod feasted regularly and drank wine and apple juice that he imported from Italy.

Many Jews visit this site because it was the site of the Jewish-Roman war. Many rebel Jews who opposed Roman rule retreated to this palace, eating the food in the reserves and worshiping at a synagogue they made out of Herod’s stables. When the Romans completed the ramp to take over the fortress, legend has it that the Jewish resident agreed death would be better than being taken slaves to the Romans. They cast lots to see who would take the life of the next, and pieces of clay pots with names written on them have been found and are displayed in the nearby museum. According to Josephus Flavius, in 73 AD when the Romans finally broke through the walls of this citadel, they discovered that the 967 Jews had killed each other until the last man, who was the only one who had to commit suicide.

Haifa

Best told by the photos, Haifa’s Ba’ Hai Gardens were an impressive scene, located along the city’s steep hillside and overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Haifa, a seaside port city, was also best known to us as the home of the best shawarma in all of Israel. Shaved pieces of lamb are stuffed into a warm pita and topped with a cucumber and tomato salad and hummus. I will definitely be finding a recipe for this and posting it under my recipe section.

Tel Aviv

Known for its beautiful beaches and crazy nightlife, Tel Aviv reminded me a lot of a Southern California town. An energy emits from this city and I was motivated to jog on the beach in the morning and enjoy the warm sand in the afternoon while reading and people watching. The only thing I had to skip was the nightlife, because a backpacker’s shoe collection doesn’t quite cut it in a Gucci stiletto world.

Above: Sun sets behind beach Tel Aviv’s beach volleyball courts.

von Dominique Omakowski

Kibbutz Givat Brenner

Tel Aviv

Yaffo

See Genezareth

Jerusalem

Totes Meer

We had a company trip on Tuesday. We went out to Ein Gedi, for a short romp through the desert before eating a lot, as is the tradition in trips. I enjoyed the romp — I decided to do it Parkour-style, improvising paths and jumping about. We then enjoyed a little trip up to Masada. I wanted to climb the snake path, but I broke down quarter way too (I probably could have done it, but too slowly to matter) so I opted for the cable car.

My muscles were pretty tired, but I still forced myself to go for a run when I went back to my parents. It was a short session — 10 minutes of running, a couple more minutes of walking.

The first Jewish settlement in Ein-Gedi began in the seventh century B.C. and lasted until some time after the destruction of the First Temple by Nebuchadrezzar of Babylonia in 586 B.C.. The colony was reestablished in the fifth century BCE and again during the Second Temple period in the second century B.C. . This period of Jewish habitation lasted intermittently for 700 years, until the end of the Byzantine empire around 550 AD, when the settlement was destroyed by fire and abandoned. Ein Gedi was developed extensively during this time and the remains of agricultural terraces, cisterns and aqueducts can still be seen.

The ruins of an ornate synagogue dating from the Byzantine era and mosaics with Hebrew and Aramaic inscriptions have been extensively restored.

The Synagogue

A Byzantine (Talmudic) Oil-Lamp

 The  Holy Ark

The mosaic floor inscreption

First Section: a list of the generation from Adam to Japheth.

Second Section: a list of months and signs of the zodiac, the three patriarchs, Daniel’s and three companions.

Third Section: an Aramaic inscription mention the benefactors of the synagogue, an oath swearing the reader to maintain the secrecy of the settlement.

Fifth Section: an Aramaic inscription thanking the citizens of the town.

Incantation Bowl – with Aramic Inscription

The Synagogue Mosaic