므게는 터키 출신으로, 학교에서 제일 친한 친구 중 하나였다.

바르셀로나에서 가장 잘 알려진 가우디의 건축물 중 하나인 까사 밀라에서 5분 떨어진 거리에 살고 있었는데, 부촌 중 하나로 알려진 그 곳에서 지내면서 내는 방 한칸의 월세만 해도 700유로였다. – 보통 셰어해서 쓰는 경우, 방 하나면 400유로 정도가 평균 가격이다.

프로페셔널 윈드 서퍼라는 타이틀에 테니스가 취미인 ‘부잣집 딸래미’ 므게는, 집 알아보고 이사 다니는 게 귀찮다면서, 어학 연수 중인 프랑스 여학생, 포르투갈 출신 시각디자이너와 함께 바르셀로나를 떠나는 날까지 그 집에서 살았다. 평균보다 비싼 300유로의 가격은 햇빛 가격으로 생각하기로 했다는 그녀의 여유로운 마인드는 동전도 세어가면서 계산하는 우리 사이에서 쏘쿨하게 느껴졌다. ㅎㅎㅎ

150년 전쯤 바르셀로나에서 유행한 모데르니스타 양식이 가미된 100년 전에 지어진 므게네 아파트는 구석의 디테일마다 바르셀로나 감성이 그대로 남아있었다. 햇빛이 쏟아져 들어오는 발코니, 모자이크 바닥 타일, 처음 집이 지어졌을 때부터그대로 쓰이고 있는 것 같은 문의 철제 장식 (밖을 내다보는), 천장의 꽃무늬 장식. 새로 지어진 아파트에는절대 들어가지 않을 디테일들.

므게의 알록달록한 악세서리와 ‘유학생’ 냄새가 폴폴 풍기는 벽에 붙은 큰 지도와 스페인어 교본은 집의 장식과 묘하게 잘 어울렸다.

재미있었던 건, 방이 5개인 그 아파트에 화장실은 4개였다는거다. 중앙 통로에 4개의 문이 하나씩 이어지는 형태였는데, 하우스메이트들마다 자기 화장실을 하나씩 갖고 나눠 쓰면서도 하나가 또 남아, 그건 손님용으로 쓰고 있었다.

므게는 터키로 다시 돌아갔지만 그 동네를 지날 때마다 난 항상 그녀 생각이 난다. “햇빗값 300유로”라는 명언도 함께.

La Pedrera

There’s a new culinary movement in Barcelona called ‘Bistronomia’, which combines the casual flare of traditional dishes reflective of the local food culture (bistro) and the more refined modern haute cuisine that is often found in Michelin starred establishments (gastronomia).   There are about 15 such Bistronomias in Barcelona which include La Mifanera, Cinc Sentits, Hisop, Alkimia and Embat.  Most are in the trendy Eixample district just north of the Plaza Catalunya, and all offer cutting edge cuisine with fresh local ingredients at more affordable prices.

Young 32 year old Chef Rafa Peña, a Barcelona native, heads the kitchens of Gresca as well as Spain’s bistronomic movement.  I decided to try Gresca for lunch, as I heard that they had an amazing lunch course for €19.  The tiny restaurant is just a few blocks west off of Passeig de Gràcia, the large popular shopping boulevard that boasts Gaudí’s famous Casa Milà La Pedrera.  The space was tiny, accomodating only 7 tables that were beautifully set with crisp white linen tablecloths and shiny silverware.  The decor was minimalist and modern, and the service was generous.

The hostess kindly gave us an English menu and was more than eager to explain each menu item in detail for us.  Although the €19 set lunch menu seemed interesting (fresh sardines that day), there were too many intriguing items on their à la carte menu that I had to try.

After a delightful glass of parmesan crisps with paprika, they gave us the most amazing amuse bouche of foie gras with mango and chives.

I started my meal with the octopus carpaccio with butifarra negra. The playful and geometric plating was astounding.  The thin slices of irregularly shaped octopus legs were like puzzle pieces, neatly laid out on a smooth background of Catalan-style blood sausage.  The periphery of the square display was framed with a refreshing crunchy ‘gremolata’ of mango, zucchini, lemon, cucumbers and onions that evened out the iron richness of the butifarra.  A rich smooth heap of potato purée waited patiently underneath as I carefully broke through its flamboyant cloak.

The onion soup with gruyere and trumpet mushrooms (chanterelles) was quite intense, salty and smoky.  It was so concentrated in earthy essence that it could probably cure any common cold.  Diced vegetables brought a nice crunchy texture to this soup.

I had the Gresca classic of Sant Pere fish with cockscomb and thyme.  The flavorful white fish had a delicate yet confident texture that stood up to the mighty collagenous  crests.  I loved these cockscombs that were tender enough to melt in my mouth but firm enough for me to feel a give on my teeth.

The entrecote steak with potatoes and thyme was simply divine.  My dining partner told me that it was one of the best steaks that she had ever had.  At first, we were both surprised at how large the steak was.  How do they expect us to eat all of this?  Tisk tisk, how sad that so much good meat will go to waste, I thought.  But by the end of the meal, the dish was squeaky clean and we were groaning with pleasure.  Mmmmm….entrecote….

When I return to Gresca on my next Barcelona trip, I would love to try the other Gresca classics: roast pigeon with ginger, smoked duck with langoustines, and a dessert of roquefort cheese with litchi and green apple sorbet.  I highly recommend this quaint Bistronomia where you will get wonderful and attentive service due to the small number of seats.  Make sure you call well in advance for a reservation, as they book up early.

Gresca

C/ Provença 230

Barcelona, 8036
93 451 61 93

Random trivia:  Did you know that the cockscomb stops growing after a rooster is castrated?  Capons, which are castrated roosters, are highly prized in Europe for their tender and juicy flesh.

The city and its operation

Previous articles outlined the way to configure cities in order they become sustainable or not. Sustainability depends on the city functionality itself as well – the aim of this third article.

Adam Smith in his invisible hand hypothesis stated that market optimizes the distribution, enabling better allocation of resources without public intervention. It can also operate by creating unwanted situations to market players (cases of monopoly, cartels, lack of coordination, etc.) and then worsening the social scene.

For instance, the decision to travel by private car instead of using public transport can outcome the worst case scenario. In this direction, several investigations have revealed that it would take less to London bus users – as in any other city – than motorists to move from one place to another if there were less cars. Hence the idea of Mayor Livingston of an expensive access to London downtown by private car in order to provide greater flexibility to surface and underground public transport.

Urban planning is therefore absolutely essential for coexistence and progress. Consequently, European citizens from the early nineteenth century claimed to eliminate obstacles (walls down!). They claimed broaden their cities, which became progressively constrained by sea, hills, and old walls – now absolutely unnecessary, with severe communication problems, crowding and hygiene.

In this context, it was clear to Ildefonso Cerdà when designing the Eixample (urban expansion) of Barcelona that the city should be open, cosmopolitan, outside connected by well done road and rail networks… But above all, it had to be habitable for citizens. The city would grow in small islands: city blocks chamfered, with large inner garden patios, thus uniting the best of countryside life with the advantages of the city. Even then, many Barcelonans turned these courtyards into dedicated warehouses, small factories, and even buildings.

The Cerdà’s pioneering urban planning (1860) through areas, gardens and building expansions – quite different from the internal reform of Haussmann (1852) in Paris – is our daily bread. Managements of urban municipalities generally deal with this responsibility. They have to operate with long-term vision – avoiding short-termism that under-sizes capabilities and services with serious further quicken consequences. In this direction, planning must address a number of priority issues on water, air, noise, energy, waste, health, housing, and transportation.

Cleaner Water
Human intervention in water availability has quantity and quality implications as water used in cities floods back to environment, thus closing a cycle already enforced. Thus, sewage without any treatment, returning to their natural environment, creates serious pollution of rivers and aquifers. To avoid such an issue, the European Water Charter (1968) marked a series of objectives that have been largely completed in the EU-15 – while it remains outstanding work in some of the new 27 Member States of the Union.

In addition, water consumption has to be rationalized: in most large cities, a cubic meter of clean water is less expensive than a Coke at a bar, then increasing produced waste. Consequently, it is essential to charge water waste, starting with a low prices block about 60 liters a day – subsequently changing basic allowance – and then becoming gradually more expensive.

Air
The topic is most evident in cities where sustainability is not shining for its excellence. The most valuable asset – what we breathe 24 hours a day – is consumed in very inadequate conditions. The air of London in the mid 1950s, with frequent smog waves, became suffocating. Following these situations a clean air policy arose, with the first laws, specifically British, in 1955. European Countries came after with further regulation mechanisms.

In summary, the most essential is to ensure clean air, with sensors networking and a very long series of measures that would not exceed the allowable cap, forcing the phasing out of most harmful emission sources.

Noise
Everyone agrees – starting with psychologists and psychiatrists – that noise is one of the environmental factors that affect most the quality of life. From small discomforts, more or less anecdotal, to levels of irreversible disorders in the human mind.

Definition of noise is well known:

“The sound, or set of sounds that are perceived by human beings, and that alter the acoustical medium within they normally move.”

…with the additional peculiarity that everything depends on the inevitability of impact also. Regarding the latter, a noise is obliged to be heeded, and even foreseeable at the time – as when a summer storm occurs, or when the passage of a train at a fixed time takes place, or when children voices arise from the playground in the courtyard of a school near you – and then the sound waves seem justified, and the trouble is diluted. Not at all when the roar of an uncontrolled neighbor turntable in its 50 watts comes to you, or when it deals with crying on Friday night in usually quiet streets, on these occasions everything just become the most detestable.

Among the most aggressive acoustic dealings, the continuous traffic of suburban highway (along with hundreds of miles of noise barriers) should be condemned – and what about major arteries within metropolitan area, and even in the formerly quiet streets in ancient downtowns?  In these ways, some motorists “do their best” traveling at full speed – as if they were in Silverstone. And it is certainly no less remarkable ambulances, day or night roistering circulating, carrying patients or not, whose sirens wailing penetrate your eardrums at completely unnecessary noise levels.

But most of all, among the most inconvenient and unnecessary noises, the urban cleaning must be pointed: the unpleasant scavenging machines in the vicinity of 100 dB, apart the absurd beep when they reverse or their stressful light pollution – equipments that go together with by “air gun carriers’”, top-mask and earplugs outfitted, raising dust clouds in the din with a volume of noise just about unbelievable – especially when you compare with the very human scavengers who still survive. All these issues must be fought, and there are many resources to do so, starting with the municipalities – now the main causing actors of noise.

Otherwise, cities as microcosm would become unsustainable.

Related posts:

>>Sustainable Cities for Freedom and Environment (1) – An Overview on Urban Developmental Evidences
>>Sustainable Cities for Freedom and Environment (2) – Prospects, Proposals and Local Agenda-21

_Aerial View Of La Barceloneta

            MUJI and  WHOTELLS (not to be confused with THE W HOTEL) have teamed up and the collaboration has been inspired by the sea. The result is a simple holiday flat for those who want the comfort of staying somewhere that feels more like you have the keys to a friend’s pad rather than staying in a corporate chain.

They offer three properties around Barcelona however, keep in mind that depending on which neighborhood  you choose to stay at it, it will have a dramatic impact on your perception of Barcelona. These apart-hotels have buildings in 3 areas: The Barceloneta, The Raval & The Eixample but, like three children its hard to say which one you like best

Having furnished all of their apartments with the simplistic modern touch of  MUJI ( one of my favorite stores) the Barceloneta property is a laid back loft done up in simple blues.

The edgier brother is the property in Raval home to vintage shops, cool pubs and the skateboarders at the MACBA.

While the Eixample property is the personification of  the uncluttered urban attitude with a definite point of view.

Check it out for yourself.  WHOTELLS and MUJI: a match made in heaven.

Nuestro bufete integrado por un conjunto de profesionales con amplios y variados conocimientos técnicos en las diversas áreas que comprende el asesoramiento legal, en CANADELL ADVOCATS , tenemos por objetivo ofrecerle la mejor asesoría mercantil – empresarial y inmobiliario , así cómo en todas aquellas áreas de negocio que usted requiera.

Somos un equipo que cuenta con la más amplia experiencia, sustentada en más de 25 años de asesoramiento en reconocidas empresas tanto locales como internacionales. Por eso, consideramos que nuestra mayor fortaleza es nuestro capital intelectual, creemos en la mejora continua y el compromiso diario. Para ello es que nos mantenemos actualizados en diversas disciplinas, con el único objetivo de brindarle a usted el nivel de excelencia que merece, sin dejar de lado el respeto y la calidez humana propios de nosotros.

Nuestra visión es ser los acompañantes de su empresa durante todo su camino hacia el éxito organizacional, destacando por encima de todo la necesidad de brindarle seguridad, discrección y tranquilidad a la hora de tomar decisiones, con el objetivo de mejorar su rentabilidad empresarial.

Sí, hace varias semanas que no escribo. Supongo que demasiadas cosas se han ido sucediendo últimamente como para recopilarlas todas en cuatro líneas mal escritas y, en todo caso, tales eventos han ocupado toda mi atención como para permitirme un momento de descanso y reflexión.

En todo caso, debo anunciar que ya tengo residencia fija en el centro de Barcelona. Los que me conocen sabrán que el hecho de no volver a pisar nunca Corbera me llena de felicidad hasta límites visceralmente explosivos. Podría rajarme el pecho con el cuello roto de una botella de ginebra y sacarme el corazón y, aún así, no sería capaz de sentir ningún dolor. La sobredosis endorfínica y el éxtasis en el que mi cerebro se encuentra impiden cualquier tipo de emoción que no sea pura y llana felicidad. En todo caso, pronto me podréis encontrar en un maravilloso piso de l’Eixample, en Aribau con Aragón, junto a cuatro maravillosas personas con las que voy a convivir. Se abre la veda a gente dispuesta a echar una mano con mudanzas y esclavitudes similares.

En otro orden de cosas, el proyecto final de carrera acucia, pero debo decir que, al fin, tengo un par de buenos puntos de partida sobre los que empezar a trabajar.

Creo que voy a dejarlo por hoy. Es tarde (o temprano…) y estoy saturado de transiciones apresuradas. Los retornos deben hacerse gradualmente. Pero esta vez he vuelto para quedarme.

Os debo, en todo caso, una crónica del Primavera Sound, del Inexperto Film Festival, así como una crítica a la magna “Tres dies amb la família”, de Mar Coll y producida bajo el cobijo de Escándalo Films y la ESCAC.

Keep in touch.

De Eixample. In een vorige post erover had ik het over de ‘oudste’ kruising in deze zo karakteristieke wijk. Op die kruising stond ooit, meer dan een eeuw geleden, een fonteintje, want precies eronder was een groot natuurlijk waterdepot. Dat bestaat nog steeds (dat depot, niet het fonteintje) en achter één van de aangrenzende huizenblokken staat ook nog een heuse watertoren.

Enkele jaren geleden besloot de gemeente de binnenterreinen van die Eixample-blokken te ‘heroveren’: in de loop der decennia zijn ze in bezit genomen, op de begane grond, door garages, winkels, pakhuizen etcetera, terwijl de oorspronkelijke, idealistische bedoeling van stedebouwkundige Ildefons Cerdà was om er gemeenschappelijke tuinen van te maken.

Sommige zijn inmiddels een een grote, voor iedereen toegankelijke tuin geworden, maar deze binnenplaats, bereikbaar door een poort vanaf Roger de Lluria, bijna op de hoek met Consell de Cent, is de meest originele van allemaal: de aanwezigheid van het waterdepot is benut om er een zwembad van te maken. In juli was het overvol, maar nu in augustus, met de thermometer elke dag boven de 30º en met veel stadsbewoners op vakantie, is het prettig toeven voor de (jongste) kinderen en hun ouders. Het is een klein paradijsje middenin de stad waarvoor de toegangsprijs slechts 1,45 euro bedraagt. Voor dat geen-geld kun je er elke dag van 10 tot 20 uur terecht (het weekeinde tot 15 uur) en er is zelfs een heuse badmeester die op de kinderen in het water let.

Er is ook een klein strandje bijgebouwd, waar vooral jonge moeders heel lang met elkaar kunnen keuvelen over baby’s, mannen, echtscheidingen en andere dagelijkse besognes, maar Barcelona heeft zo’n namaakstrandje niet echt nodig (in tegenstelling tot Parijs aan de Seine en Rotterdam aan de Maas); het is één van de weinige wereldsteden met zijn eigen echte strand bijna aan de rand van de binnenstad.

Our main itinerary in Eixample started by chance near FARMÀCIA NORDBECK and Fundació Vila Casas. An enchanted walk brought us to Passeig de Gràcia, where even a CocaCola window and McDonald’s look … different!

Our first destination is La Pedrera.
We’ve already admired it from outside many times these past days, but we forgot about these kid friendly rooms inside! So friendly that our toddler wants to play with the hundred years old toys and sit in the high chair

After a rooftop visit we step down for a colorful sweet brunch at Mauri.

Next destination is Casa Batlló.
No more furnished rooms this time, but the modernista courtyard adds another highlight to our visit, and the audio tour is great for kids too!
GAUDI DESIGNER has beautiful renditions of the interior design elements.

Following Gaudi’s ABCs we are up to the attic, rooftop and chimneys! These were closed in our previous visit a long time ago, so we all enjoy the vistas.

Virtual tours of Casa Batlló and La Pedrera, and our snapshot itinerary:

Nausicaa Bonnín i Eduard Fernández, al film.

Després del seu èxit fulgurant al Festival de Màlaga, s’ha estrenat a Barcelona Tres dies amb la família, l’opera prima de la directora Mar Coll, guanyadora del premi a la millor direcció, millor actor (Eduard Fernández) i millor actriu (Nausicaa Bonnín). Un triplet com el del Barça, com van dir eufòrics els organitzadors de la preestrena, ara fa dues setmanes, al cine Urgell, davant una munió de gent que va obligar a obrir les portes a tothom que s’hi va presentar.

El film, amb un gran nivell d’interpretació, retrata les relacions personals d’una família burgesa de Girona, que es retroba per uns dies amb motiu de la mort de l’avi patern. Els dies de vetlla són l’excusa per exposar els integrants de la família (fills, oncles, cosins…) a les afinitats i contradiccions de les relacions humanes, estranyament complicades en l’àmbit de la institució familiar, i no per això ben naturals.

En aquestes circumstàncies, els sentiments afloren de forma íntima i continguda en tots els personatges principals: la Léa (Nausicaa Bonnín), que no troba mai a casa el seu nòvio francès; el seu pare Josep Maria (Eduard Fernández), bloquejat encara pel seu fracàs matrimonial; l’oncle Pere (Ramon Fontserè), el nou capo de la família; l’oncle Toni (Francesc Orella), l’únic que es va preocupar de debò d’acompanyar l’avi en els últims anys de la seva vida; la tieta Virgínia (Amàlia Sancho), l’ovella negra de la família, mare d’un fill inadaptat i golafre (Artur Busquets)…

Una pel·lícula interessant i que deixa un bon regust de boca. Per ser vista, lògicament, en la versió original catalana, que projecten els cines Alexandra, Renoir Les Corts i Renoir Floridablanca. Altrament, la fan en VOSE als cines Icaria i Boliche. Tant de bo duri a la cartellera…

Ik heb het er al eens eerder over gehad, de Eixample, de grootste wijk van Barcelona, het immense schaakbord met 400 kruisingen en evenzovele (of meer) vierkante huizenblokken die de oude, ommuurde stad met de omliggende dorpen (Sants, Sarrià, Les Corts, Sant Gervasi, Gràcia, Horta, Sant Martí, Sant Andreu) verbonden. Een stadsplan dat pas een eeuw later door stedebouwkundigen als geniaal werd bestempeld. Deze maand is het ‘jaar Cerdà’ begonnen, ter ere van ingenieur Ildefons Cerdà, wiens plan precies 150 jaar geleden werd geaccepteerd. Niet door het gemeentebestuur van Barcelona trouwens, dat had de voorkeur aan een Haussmann-project zoals dat van Parijs, een serie ringen die zich vanuit het centrum uitbreidde, als de golfjes rond een in de vijver geworpen steen. Het was de centrale regering in Madrid die het ‘plan Cerdà’ oplegde.

Cerdà kwam van het platteland en vond dat de mensen in de stad ook zo ruim moesten kunnen wonen als hij in Centelles had geleefd. Dus niet meer op elkaar geplakt als in de oude, historische stadscentra, met vochtige, donkere, smalle straatjes. Zijn tegenstanders vonden het maar verspilling van ruimte, zo groots als hij de woningen én de ruimte ertussen (straten en tuinen) ontwierp. Anderhalve eeuw later blijkt dat stadsplan van toen nog altijd goed te werken. Zó kenmerkend is dat plan, dat het zelfs Cerdà’s graf (foto boven) op de Montjuïc siert; de man stierf overigens berooid, eind 19e eeuw, omdat de opdrachtgevers hem bijna nooit betaalden.

Heel dicht bij het centrum van Barcelona ligt trouwens nog de oudste kruising van de Eixample, althans het kruispunt waar nog de drie oudste huizenblokken overeind staan, gebouwd tussen 1862 en ‘64, op de hoek van Consell de Cent met Roger de Llúria. Twee ervan zijn grondig gerenoveerd. Ze heten de ‘Casas Cerdà’, de huizen Cerdà, maar dat heeft toevallig niet met de ingenieur te maken: de bouwer van die eerste huizen heette Josep Cerdà, geen familie. Op de foto één van die vroegere woningen, nu het hotel Catalonia Berna. Overigens is de gevel nog het enige originele: alles erachter werd gesloopt.

En este podcast les contamos nuestras mini-vacaciones en Barcelona. Como es una ciudad que conocemos bien, no nos prodigamos demasiado con monumentos y hacemos un recorrido por los barrios más significativos.

Si alguien escucha el podcast y se queda con alguna duda que nos mande un e-mail y responderemos cualquier pregunta.

Pueden ver algunas fotos de esta escapada en nuestro sitio de Flickr. Tenemos algunas fotos más del Parc Güell de Gaudí, hechas cuando vino a vernos Elda, desde Rio de Janeiro.

Aquí encontrarán algún vídeo de lugares significativos de Barcelona, como La Pedrera, de Gaudí.

Otras imágenes de Barcelona: aquí y aquí.

El tema musical es Mediterráneo, de Serrat, pero en una interpretación genial de Lolita. Por cierto también la canta en Rencor, film excelente de Miguel Albaladejo (2002) con Jorge Perugorría.

Descargar MP3 (70:20 min. 32,4 MB)

En el resturante Grand Place del Gran Hotel Havana de Barcelona en la Gran Via de les Corts Catalanes con esquina Bruc, en el Eixample barcelonés, se están celebrando unas Jornadas Gastronómicas de Cocina con Flores, muy originales y “apetitosas”.
En estas Jornadas puedes experimentar nuevas sensaciones gustativas como es la combinación de unas Gambas al Ajillo con flor de Sechuan, en este plato experimentas el sabor de las gambas al ajillo y luego la sensación anestesiante de la Flor de Sechuan o probar las Flor de calabacín rellena de calamarcitos y langostinos, espectacular o acabar degustando unas fresas con espuma de Rosas y sentir el sabor de las rosas en la boca.
Muy recomendable para las personas que les gusta experimentar o solo comer bien. Estas jornadas se celebran hasta el 24 de mayo.
Más información en www.granhotelhavana.com

Bar Mut exterior (photo from Barcelona Unlike)

Although I’ve always read that Barcelona is no tapas town (this article, for example, explains how Catalunyans historically preferred a full sit-down meal), Jon and I couldn’t resist the siren call of small plates in Spain.

On the high end of the tapas spectrum was Bar Mut, which is a short walk from Diagonal metro in Eixample district, where you’ll find Gaudi goodies La Pedrera, Casa Batllo and Sagrada Familia. (If you think the area feels like the Upper East Side, you wouldn’t be far off the mark).

Bar Mut is a small, French-looking spot complete with marble-topped counters, brass-and-frosted-glass fixtures, a blackboard menu, and that hazy gold lighting that characterises all charming late-night spots. I’d read only rave reviews of the place, and Bar Mut’s open for business on Sunday, which was a big plus.

The restaurant is extremely-well-known, so when we turned up for our 10:30 pm booking on a Sunday night, it was still packed.

marinated anchovies for 13 euros at Bar Mut

Understandably, the restaurant sent us the one server who spoke fluent English, but he turned out to be sort of an arrogant, condescending guy, insisting that it’d be easier if we left the ordering to him. In a good mood from our aperitifs, we agreed, and he proceeded to skip all the dishes on the blackboard that we couldn’t quite make out, and instead ordered us basics like jamon iberico and marinated anchovies. High quality, beautiful stuff, but I couldn’t help feeling that Jon and I needn’t have traveled to Barcelona to eat expensive, good-quality basics.

ventresca con tumbet (tuna belly)

An order of ventresca con tumbet (tuna belly) sounded promising, but turned out to be very good-quality tuna that had been cooked until it tasted canned. Based on its melt-in-your-mouth texture, the tuna was probably brilliant when it was raw, and it seemed a shame (to me) to have cooked it up and shredded it on a slightly-limp green lettuce salad.

cochinillo (roast suckling pig)

The cochinillo at 18 euros was very good, making it the one dish that our server recommended that was especially noteworthy. The skin was incredible – thin and crispy, and extremely easy to break apart. Apparently, the kitchen first cooks the suckling pig sous vide before crisping the skin on the grill before serving. Much as I loved the classic oven-roasted version we ate in Segovia in the Ribera del Duero, the skin on the traditional version was sometimes a bit too shiny and hard to eat easily, so I’d say Bar Mut’s contemporary version was a real improvement.

carpaccio huevos fritos (our superstar dish of the night)

Still hungry, Jon and I used pidgin Spanish to ask another server what he’d recommend, and without hesitating, he pointed us to the carpaccio huevos fritos. Unsure what would be raw (i.e., the carpaccio bit), we figured anything with fried eggs would surely be a winner, and at 14 euros, the dish was the highlight of our night: fried shoestring potatoes on a bed of raw egg yolk with some veg thrown in. The crunch-creamy textures were great, and the comfort factor of all those potatoes mixing with the rich egg yolk is not to be underestimated.

With a bottle of Carmelo Rodero crianza for 25 euros (I love the relatively-low markups on wine in Spanish restos!), our tab for two before tip totaled 110 euros. It was a lot of money for an inexpensive wine and five or six tapas dishes. I’d have been more wowed if we’d gotten more of the interesting items on the menu. So if you go, try to order on your own, and definitely go when there’s shellfish available. Bar Mut knows how to source, and I’ll guess that when there’s shellfish on offer, it’s the best money can buy.

Go for high-quality versions of tapas classics. Go if you’re touristing out in the neighborhood gawping at the Gaudis. And if you really want to be wowed, eschew the help of the English-speaking server and order the dishes you’ve never heard of from the blackboard menu.

Bar Mut, Pau Claris, 192; +34 93 217 43 38; Eixample district; closest metro station: Diagonal

Als de drie zakkenrollers van de post hieronder in voorarrest blijven in afwachting van de rechtszaak, moeten zij vrijwel zeker naar de Modelo-gevangenis. De plaats is uniek, in de eerste plaats omdat zij een beetje aan de Middeleeuwen doet denken. Gebouwd in 1904 verkeert de Modelo in bijna dezelfde staat als toen, een eeuw geleden, en zitten er met 1.800 man (geen vrouwen) drie keer zoveel gevangenen in als hygiënisch zou zijn.

Maar de gevangenis is vooral zo uniek omdat hij, op 100 meter van het centraals station van Sants, gewoon onderdeel vormt van de Eixample en slechts door gewone straten van de omwonenden wordt gescheiden. Omdat de meeste flats veel later zijn gebouwd dan de gevangenis, zijn die woningen allemaal veel hoger en hebben de mensen die op de derde verdieping of hoger wonen vrije inkijk op de binnenplaats van de Modelo en kunnen zij ook bij heel wat cellen naar binnen kijken. Zo is ooit een beroemde steenrijke ondernemer die vastzat, Javier de la Rosa, vanuit zo’n woning in zijn cel gefotografeerd.

Logisch dat de meeste omwonenden liever iets anders aan de overkant zien, want een gevangenis als overbuur komt de waarde van de flat niet ten goede. Natuurlijk hebben zij allen hun flat gekocht terwijl ze wisten dat de Modelo vast onderdeel van het uitzicht was, maar de overheden beloven al tientallen jaren lang dat hij defintief uit het straatbeeld zal verdwijnen. Nu is de datum van 2013 geprikt om de Modelo leeg te halen en de gevangenen naar een nieuw complex buiten de stad over te brengen. Een deel van de gevangenis blijft, als monument, wel bestaan. Maar in plaats van muren en prikkeldraad komt er dan een parkje. (Het Olympisch dorp heet óók nog zijn eigen gevangenis, Wad-Ras, alleen voor vrouwen.)

Overigens zitten in de Modelo slechts mannen in vóórrarrest, dat in Spanje altijd de maximale duur van 2 jaar in beslag neemt voordat er eens een rechtszaak plaatsvindt. Soms kan het zelfs tot 4 jaar worden verlengd…

I recently got an inquiry from an American group wanting to know about the Market Hotel in Barcelona. The group is older, wants something economical yet clean and will allow them to walk with ease to city sights. Are you in this same predicament??? This is what I told them:

I had a chance to look at that hotel, and I had not heard of it. That is not strange though as there are a lot of new boutique hotels. I think in general it could be a good find. It is in Eixample-esquerre, which is affectionately known as “gayxample”, so if there are a lot of men around, dont be surprised. That also probably means a lot of trendy bars and restaurants within walking distance. It is two blocks south of the Gran Via which is a beautiful thoroughfare to walk, and as you stated, the Mercat Sant Antoni is a block south, which is great for food shopping. Directly east is the Gothic quarter and the Ramblas and the Raval. The Raval is traditionally the Muslim quarter now become hip with young artists, but also traditionally known as a bit dangerous if walking alone. The further south of the hotel you go towards Montjuic the less attractive the neighborhoods become, and the further north and west of the hotel, the more chic.

That said, if it is reasonable, then it seems like a good fit because you can walk to most everything, and if not, there are several metro stops nearby.

There really are no “unsafe” parts to Barcelona, especially given there are usually more people walking around at 3 in the morning than at midday, but pickpockets are very prevalent in the central core for tourists. Keep nothing in your pockets [men] and keep purses tighly against the body and within eye-shot.

Another idea would be to research the NH Hotel Chain. This is a Spanish chain with very affordable rooms and always very nice. I would look into possible the NH PODIUM which starts at 100 euros a night. It is in the Eixample-Dreta which is very chic, and in a recently restored late 19-century art-nouveau building. It is 4 blocks east of the Paseo de Gracia and 4 blocks north of the Gothic Quarter, and the Via Laietana which takes you directly to the Harbor area, and the extremely trendy El Born Section of the Gothic Quarter.