Water feature at Chester Beatty Library

Walked up to Dublin Castle to visit the Garda Museum to see if they’d any more info on my dad; I’d emailed a couple of weeks before (attaching photos) but had heard nothing back. My dad had been a Garda, and was one of the first eight Triumph-riding ‘Courtesy Cops’ (controlling traffic with courtesy!) in the 1950s. The Chester Beatty Library is right next to the Castle so we stopped at its Silk Road Café for a coffee first. Such a lovely place, with tables in a covered courtyard. A couple of toddlers were playing at the water fountain, and got soaked; their clearly sensible mum had a change of clothes for them. The museum staff were less than helpful. They claimed not to have received my email, and said I must have sent it somewhere else. Indeed, they were quite dismissive. I pushed, though, and they let me access my Gmail. And there it was – sent to their address! Then they said emails with attachments are blocked, and that I should have contacted them first. No mention of that on their site. One chap said they couldn’t help anyway. I asked who could.  ”If you had just let me finish my sentence, I was going to tell you!” he snapped. I thought he’d finished. He suggested I contact Siochán (the Garda magazine). Pause. “And where’s that?” I asked, feeling increasingly irritated. “Harcourt Street!” he replied. I thanked him and left. I could Google that. A few moments later, he came out of his office, waving a magazine at me. “I was going to copy this for you, but you’ve moved on!” What? Anyway, his colleague copied the info for me. Mark and I had a look around the rest of the museum. It was all rather chaotic; stuff from different eras all jumbled up. Why not a journey through time through the rooms? Some of the exhibits were credited. This made me wonder why they hadn’t welcomed me, and expressed interest in adding what I had to their collection. I have some wonderful photos that would enhance their exhibition, and fill some vital gaps, such as the visit of Cardinal Agagianian in 1961. [A couple of days later, I had an email saying they'd located my email, and offering to find more information. We'll see.]

Walked back to Dawson Street to meet Aileen. Stopped at Sheehan’s (OK pub but a bit too noisy) in Chatham Street for an aperitif (Guinness: what else?) and then on to Grogan’s in South William Street for another. Grogan’s is a lovely old place; understandably, it was packed inside, so we sat outside with the smokers. There had been a torrential downpour while we were in Sheehan’s but it stopped just before we left. How considerate!

Havana’s dessert board!

Decided to eat at Havana (a tapas place I used to frequent) in George’s Street. Got shown to a table we didn’t like but moved to a lovely corner table. Another enjoyable evening of catching up and laughter! The early-bird mixed plate of meatballs, chicken and potato gratin was excellent; a decent-sized portion for 12 euros. Aileen and I shared a 500ml carafe of very good white wine, while Mark had a San Miguel. Desserts of creme brulee, tiramisu and chocolate brownie – all superb. Then Irish coffees. Phew! I knew the owners slightly, and chatted for a bit when one came to clear the table. Coffees on the house! After our late night last night, and walking miles around town, we were shattered and in need of our bed. Aileen, however, was keen to go for a cocktail, and I was persuaded. We nipped into The Bank on Dame street, but it was heaving. Out into Dame Street and wondering where to go, we both felt we couldn’t eat or drink another thing. Aileen seemed disappointed, and I felt bad about disappointing her. We hugged her goodbye and walked to Pearse Street, which seemed farther away this time. Back at Ariel House, we found tiny cakes in the lounge. Mark managed to eat one; I couldn’t even cope with a nibble. So stuffed! And so to our lovely bed for our last night in Dublin.

Michael Staines (right) and Eoin O' Duffy. Two first Garda Commissioners.

The Garda History Museum is one of individuals, as much as of the force.

Michael Staines was an interesting Volunteer. The son of an RIC man, he was the Quartermaster General within the General Post Office in 1916. When sent to Frongoch, he became ‘Camp Leader’ among the men, and upon his release became active once more at home in the Volunteer movement. On August 17, 1922, as Garda Commissioner he would lead his new police force through the castle gates.

He would be followed by Eoin O’ Duffy, another character of the republican movement, and a most controversial one to boot. Ironically, O’ Duffy had been one of the Republicans involved in the first ever capture of a Royal Irish Constabulary Barracks, in the company of Ernie O’ Malley.

Front of Museum, Dublin Castle.

This Museum, while covering the history of that force which marched into Dublin Castle in 1922, does not shy away from the forces that called it home before them. Rather, it is a comprehensive look at the history of policing in Ireland. The Royal Irish Constabulary and Dublin Metropolitan Police feature prominently in the Museum, featuring both on occasion as a political force (For example the 1913 riots, which resulted in the deaths of several workers) and a day to day police force. The history of the Royal Irish Constabulary in particular is a loaded one, when one considers that, to give one example, the Black and Tans were directly employed by the RIC. Preserving history is not a matter of politics however, and to see so many quality RIC and DMP historical pieces displayed as well as they are here is a treat, and of great assistance to anyone who believes a complete picture is needed when studying some of the most remarkable years in Irish history.

Garda traffic box, a great Dublin shot.

The Museum, spanning an amazing four floors, is one of the last old-fashioned Museums in the city centre in my humble opinion. In fact, along with the Natural History Museum, it is a sort of throwback to Museums of old, and what I feel Museums should be. All the more incredible considering Dublin Castle is only home to the Museum since 1997. The correct approach to displaying items like those in the Garda Museum is simple: Allow the pieces to speak for themselves, and provide the information clearly alongside the items. There is no shortage of information available, in the form of information panels and wall displays, but unlike some museums there is no overpowering audio-visual element.

Proclamation issued April 25th, 1916.

One should not attempt to focus on individual pieces in a Museum like this, as in every corner something new grabs your attention. The Museum holds a variety of War of Independence medals for example, belonging to men who would later join the ranks of An Garda Síochanna. The above Proclamation however stands out for me, issued on April 25th in response to the Rising which began a day previous.

“WHEREAS, in the City of Dublin and County of Dublin certain evilly disposed persons and associations, with the intent to subvert the supremacy of the Crown in Ireland, have committed divers acts of violence, and have with deadly weapons attacked the Forces of the Crown, and have resisted by armed force the lawful Authority of His Majesty’s Police and Military Forces. AND whereas by reason thereof several of His Majesty’s liege Subjects have been killed and many others severely injured, and much damage to property has been caused”

The role of the Gardaí in the new state, in its first few years, is covered, where the force was to follow Staines belief that “The Garda Síochána will succeed not by force of arms or numbers, but on their moral authority as servants of the people” Early Garda documents (for example dealing with the unarmed nature of the force), uniforms and insignia are all on display.

RIC Officer.

Of course, the 1900-22 period is of particular interest to me. Perhaps for other visitors, this isn’t the case. Yet, the story of policing in Ireland told here is so long and broad that certain aspects of it will no doubt appeal to others the way parts of it did to me. Even the stairs here play home to wonderful photographs and pieces, there is not an inch of this Museum left without an item. From my own perspective, approaching the centenary of the 1913 lockout, the Easter Rising and the conflicts that followed on from it, it is no doubt time many of us with a keen interest in the period attempted to increase our understanding of the state forces in Ireland at the time.

I will conclude with a verse from ‘Good Bye RIC’, which I have taken from Jim Herlihy’s wonderful history ‘The Royal Irish Constabulary’

‘We once could walk the city too,
Dressed neatly in our suits of blue,
With polished feet and all complete,
Our heads erect going down the street,
But now we are scattered everywhere,
Far from the dear old Depot Square,
Some of them lie in graves from Foyle to Lee,
Fell fighting in the RIC’