Continued from part one
2.Feed plant food: give plant food once in every one or two weeks from spring to summer,; this is very important. Flowers are like humans, they need nutrition to grow and produce buds during the flowering season. If you do this they tend to flower longer, bigger with more flowers and that helps keep your garden more colourful. I use Miracle-Grow from B&Q and the results are very good. Please make sure that you feed different plant the right food, for example – acid lovers such as Hydrangea.

3.Spray: If the leaves become yellow and full of holes, you need to buy some spray to kill the bugs and other insects. Yellow bugs loves lilies and they love to make lots of holes on your lily’s leaves.

4.I use various treatments to kill slugs, snails and ants: Sprinkle some slug pellets or ant-killing tablets or power around your plant to keep them away from your flowers and plants. Slugs especially like Dahlia type plants and ants love Peony buds. Ant also like to farm Aphids, keeping away the bugs predators and helping them to spread.

5.Take off any dead flowers and leaves: when the flowers are finished, cut them off, this helps new buds to come out and saves the nutrition for new ones.

6.For Peonies and lilies: In late autumn cut off all the leaves when they are dry and dying and only leave the roots. It will help the roots come back strongly next spring.

7.Flower baskets and pots: they need more care than garden plants,as the nutrition from the basket soil is limited. You need to water them at least once a day and need to take off the dead buds regularly. In very hot weather you must increase the watering to stop them drying out. You can buy special soils that better at retaining moisture.

8.Lawns: To have a green, thick and weed-free lawn, you need to buy Lawn Feeder that kills weeds and gives the lawn the nutrition it needs to grow.

1.Spread evenly out just before any rain, so it can be very well soaked with rain. Repeat this 4- 5 times a year from spring to summer and you will have a fabulous and lovely lawn.

2.Make sure you buy quite good quality, once we bought both a cheap one and an expensive one from B&Q, we tested the cheap product on one half of the lawn and the expensive one on the other half, and interestingly we had very different results. Where the expensive lawn feeder was spread had longer,thicker grass and a healthier looking lawn compared to the patchy and shorter lawn where the cheap product was spread.

3.Make sure you cut your grass regularly to have a thicker lawn. When it’s a hot summer’s day make sure not to cut it too short, unless you have a water feeder, otherwise the roots will get burnt. Make sure not to cut it too short during the winter time, in case frost kills the roots.

It sounds like a lot of work, but it will spread out over the year and you won’t feel that it’s very much work when you see the results of your labour. If you love gardening it’s an enjoyment to work in the garden admiring your beautiful flowers and breathing fresh air. Remember with your care and attention you will be rewarded with a longer lasting, more glamorous garden that helps you to improve your living environment, health and quality of life.

Check My YouTube Video Shannon’s Beautiful Garden

The end.

When I was born I was an ugly duckling, my mother wished for me to grow up and become a beautiful swan and therefore gave me a name called Yanhua. I have both Chinese and Korean connections and in both languages this name means beautiful flower. When I first came to Ireland and the UK, lots of people were curious to know the meaning of my name. This name is difficult to pronounce and remember for most westerners, so most people call me by my English name – Shannon in Europe.

I may have grown up to be a beautiful swan (Sorry, for not being modest!) compared to an ugly duck, however, maybe because of my name, Yanhua, I have fallen in love with flowers and I feel that I have a special connection with flowers. Whether they are indoor plants in my house or in the front and back gardens, they tend to do very well. Of course the main reason is that I pay special attention and care to them and I feel they can feel it too. As a reward, my flowers tend to blossom longer, are bigger with more flowers and are healthier; all of that provides me with a beautiful garden and green living space.

Flowers and plants are just like any relationships in your life; if you pay special attention, care and put efforts to them they will reward you handsomely, but if you ignore them they tend to die or do poorly. The following tips are from many years of my own experience that worked well in my gardening:

1.Roses: I have 22 different types of roses in my garden, they are absolutely beautiful and it’s one of my favourites. They flower many times from May to late autumn and I love its variety, fragrances and different styles. I have Silver Jubilee, Paul’s Scarlet, the climbing rose, Special Anniversary, Twist, Arthur Bell, Remember Me, Jackie Carter, David Austin and many more…

1.You can prune your roses in late autumn after flowering is over, but I have found March to be the best month for pruning roses. Make sure you cut the rose bush down to 6- 8 inches from the rose union. If the bush is too tall, the nutrition tends not to go up high and therefore the plant will produce less flowers. It also looks ugly as a tall bush with just a few flowers on top of it. Make sure that you cut off branches from the inner side of the bush, so air can circulate. Also cut off any suckers that do not produce any buds.

2.Feed plant food regularly (follow the instructions on the fertiliser container) to keep up nutrition from spring to late summer. This helps your roses flower bigger, longer and produce more buds.

3. Rose Clear: roses attract lots of greenfly and the leaves can get spots and fungus. Rose Clear (an insecticide and fungicide) is an excellent solution to all of these problems and it works really well.

4.After the flower’s are finished, make sure you cut them off regularly, known as dead-heading, this will help new buds coming up and the nutrition won’t be wasted on producing seeds. This is very important to keep a long lasting rose garden.

Check My YouTube Video Shannon’s Beautiful Garden

To be continued.

I once read, that if growing hollyhocks was as difficult as growing roses, then they would be just as appreciated.  I think this is true. 

Hollyhocks have always been one of my favorite flowers.  Their tall stalks seem to rise effortlessly overhead and the flowers, bright and cheerful, are like rays of sunshine, smiling at the world.  They became even more significant to me when my great-aunt Beverly showed me how to make southern bells out of the flowers and buds.  We were visiting her at her home in South Sioux City, NE  when she showed my siblings and I how to stack   several open flowers on a toothpick to form the skirt of our Southern Bell, then add a bud for the head and another, smaller, open flower for a hat.   We covered her house in these glorious ladies, and still, there were more flowers to be had.

Here, I have them growing in front of my house, steadily creeping into the lawn.  When I moved in, there was three plants.  A white, a dark salmon and a light salmon.  The next year several pink ones made themselves known.  Now I have colors ranging from almost black, deep burgundy, pink, yellow, white, salmon and multi-colored ones.   Extras have been carefully transplanted to fill in areas of the landscaping that need more color and less weeds. 

I love the way these hardy plants will even crowd out the most aggressive grasses and weeds.  I love how their roots go deep, and how little water they need to survive.  I love that they are prone to thriving!

An article I had written on how to grow gerbera daisies has been capturing a lot of attention. A reader named Julie recently posted that she would send some fresh gerber daisy seeds to whoever wanted some. I was quick to say “Yeah” and poof there they were in my mailbox. I”m looking forward to planting them. Apparently Julie gathers the seeds from the plants she buys at the store. I was previously under the impression that store bought gerbera daisies would produce infertile seeds, but she proved me wrong.  From my understanding you need fresh seeds.  Fresh seeds tend to have an almost 100% germination rate.

Here’s what she had to say about planting them:

I have gathered my seeds from plants I bought at various stores. I get about a 98 % germination rate on the seeds I plant. I simply take a tooth pick, and make a hole, then place the seed with the fuzzy top up in the hole. The Fuzzy top must be above the dirt. But they grow really well that way.

Here’s what the germinated seeds look like:

These seedlings are hurting from shipping. The 2 leaves means it’s still to early to transplant them.  You should wait until there are 4 leaves.  For more information make sure you read the article How To Grow Gerbera Daisies Indoors.

A lot of home gardeners are trying to grow gerbera daisies from seeds.  They are forced to keep buying these hybrid seeds because the flowers do not produce fertile seeds.  The reason is because the gerbera daisy is a man-made hybrid that can only exist in nature because of science.  I’ve recently discovered who the original parent to these hybrid gerbera daisies is – the Barberton Daisy.  This South African native is named after the city of Barberton.  The barberton daisy produces fertile seeds just like God intended.  And you know, it’s quite pretty.  The only problem is, how do you get a hold of a barberton daisy or its seeds if you don’t live in Africa?  Please post any responses on my blog.

Useful reference:  www.gerbera.org

Possible place to buy seeds: www.bidorbuy.co.za

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A complete list of plants, trees, shrubs, flowers, seeds, greenhouse, garden information.

About Gardening, Gardening, Trees, Greenhouse, Gardening websites, Gardening links, Planting, seeds, gardening seeds, flowers, gardening flowers, flowers gardening .

All About Gardening | Greenhouse, herbs and spices

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A complete list of plants, trees, shrubs, flowers, seeds, greenhouse, garden information.

About Gardening, Gardening, Trees, Greenhouse, Gardening websites, Gardening links, Planting, seeds, gardening seeds, flowers, gardening flowers, flowers gardening .

All About Gardening | Greenhouse, herbs and spices

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A complete list of plants, trees, shrubs, flowers, seeds, greenhouse, garden information.

About Gardening, Gardening, Trees, Greenhouse, Gardening websites, Gardening links, Planting, seeds, gardening seeds, flowers, gardening flowers, flowers gardening .

Watermelons are available in many sizes, shapes, and colors. The shapes vary from round to oblong, with colors ranging from light green to almost black. The fruit skin color can be solid, striped, or marbled. The edible portion of the flesh can be yellow, pink, pink-red, bright red, or deep red. An additional choice of seeded vs. seedless is also available.  And don’t forget National Watermelon Day – August 3rd

There’s more to the world of melons than just the cantaloupe and honeydew, but this may not be true for long: many varieties are “on the brink of extinction,” according to cultivator and collector GoldmanThis handsome volume documents unusual types of melon like the Collective Farm Woman (originally from Ukraine) and the serpent-shaped Snake melon with lavish color photos and playful descriptions. Goldman also instructs readers on how to pollinate, grow and harvest these plants; includes a list of commercial sources..” Publishers Weekly

Gardeners in northern areas should choose early varieties and use transplants. Mulching also promotes earliness by warming the soil .

Plant after the soil is warm and when all danger of frost is past. Watermelons grow best on a sandy loam soil, although yields on clay soils can be increased significantly by mulching raised planting rows.

As watermelon require a relatively long/warm growing season it is advisable to start your seedlings indoors, and transplant into your garden when frost danger has disappeared.

Start the seeds inside 3 weeks before they are to be set out in the garden. Plant 2 or 3 seeds in peat pellets, peat pots or cell packs and thin to the best one or two plants.

Transplanted watermelons will mature 10 to 12 days earlier than plants that are direct-seeded. Use of seedless varieties, is recommended if you are not seed saving The seed-coat of seedless varieties adheres tightly to the cotyledons, so place seeds with the point up when starting transplants.

Watering

Watering is critical in growing watermelons. The key time to water is from the time the fruit begins to form until it is half-grown. Excessive watering too close to harvesting of watermelon will reduce the sugar content and cause the fruit to have hollow centers.

Fertilizing
When setting out transplants, apply a a common starter solution.
For sandy loam soils or coarser soils apply  fertilizer based on soil tests when the watermelon vines begin to spread about.

If heavy rainfall occurs early in the season apply an extra side dressing.

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There are actually two distinct varieties of crops referred to as artichokes. This article deals with Globe Artichokes, as in the illustration above. The other “artichoke”  – Jerusalem Artichoke, is not really an artichoke and not even remotely related to true artichokes. Jerusalem Artichoke, also known as “sun-choke” and casava in some places is actually a type of sunflower or, more correctly, the tuberous roots of a type of sunflower.

It is perennial living from year to year. The edible tubers resemble potatoes but are rough and knobby and have a crisp texture, much like that of water chestnuts.

The Globe Artichoke is closely related to the thistle. The part we eat is from the immature flower bud. If the buds or “globes” are not harvested, six inch bluish thistle-like flower heads develop.

The edible portion of the “globe” is composed of the fleshy bases of the flower bracts and the receptacle to which the bracts are attached, known as the “heart”.

Asparagus is an easily grown long lived perennial, given proper care – asparagus plants can be productive for over a decade.  But ..  It takes at least two years and sometimes up to three years to establish an asparagus patch.

Planting Asparagus

Plant asparagus in early spring, after the soil has warmed up to about 50 degrees F. There is no advantage to planting the crowns earlier in cold, wet soils. They will not grow until the soil warms and there is danger of the plants being more susceptible to disease if crowns are exposed to cold, wet soils over a prolonged period.

Plant the asparagus where it will not shade the other vegetables and will not be injured when the rest of the garden is tilled.

You can start asparagus from seed, but germination is slow (four weeks or more), and weeds are difficult to control in young seedlings. Plants grown from seed indoors can be transplanted -the following spring -to a permanent location .

It is more advisable to start from “crowns” .  Choose large, one-year-old crowns if possible. They transplant easier, produce plants as vigorous as two-year-old crowns and are less expensive.

Site Selection is critical for asparagus .  Select an area that is free of perennial weeds . Asparagus prefers a loamy soil that is well drained. If possible start to prepare a site 1 year in advance of planting by turning the soil and adding  compist . Check your soil PH , and be sure there is plenty of well rotted organic matter present.

Space asparagus crowns 12 inches to 18 inches apart in the row. When you want more than one row, space rows 4 feet to 6 feet apart.

Traditionally, crowns are planted in a deep trench or furrow. Recent research shows no benefit from planting crowns deeper than 4 inches to 6 inches in the trench. Spread out the fleshy roots at the bottom of the furrow. Lightly cover the crown with soil. Gradually fill in the furrow as shoots emerge. Never completely bury the developing asparagus fern.

Do not compact the soil over the newly filled furrow or the emergence of the asparagus will be severely reduced. Spears should emerge within one week in moist soils.

By mid-season of the planting year, a ridge forms that is 4 inches to 6 inches high and 2 feet wide over the asparagus crowns. Maintain this ridge for the duration of the planting.

To plant asparagus, dig a trench 6-8  inches deep , wide enough to spread out the roots of the crown in the trench bottom.

Place the crown in the bottom of the trench – buds  upward.  Cover the crowns with 2 inches of soil. As the plants grown, additional soil should be added to the trench until it is completely filled at the end of the first season. Deep planting will allow for easier cultivation without injury to the plants.

Watering

Moisture during the summer is critical to keep the plants healthy because next year’s crop is directly related to health of the fern growth after the spears have been harvested in the present year. Asparagus is very drought tolerant and will generally survive without supplemental watering. It seeks moisture deep in the soil. However, if rainfall is insufficient when planting or afterwards, it is beneficial to irrigate the crowns. Otherwise the plants will become stressed and growth will be impeded.

The incidence of disease can be reduced by proper spacing and by watering early in the day so leaves dry quickly or by using soaker hoses. Inexpensive Water timer systems are available .

Weed control

Control weeds by hand-pulling or shallow cultivation to avoid injury to the plant roots.

In a small planting, it’s more practical to control weeds through shallow cultivation by hoeing. Using an organic mulch such as grass clippings that have not been treated with a herbicide also helps control weeds. . If perennial grasses and broadleaf weeds have gotten out of control, use glyphosate (Roundup) before spears emerge in the spring.  During harvest keep cultivation shallow to prevent damaging the spears that have emerged. Organic mulches may be used to inhibit weeds

Common table salt once was used to control weeds in asparagus. But is no longer recommended.  Although asparagus is more tolerant of high salt levels in the soil than most plants, the sodium in table salt can permanently destroy the soil structure.

Fertilizer

Fertilize annually . Immediately after harvest apply about 2 pounds of a 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet , or spread well rotted manure, or  Liquid Fish Concentrate  over the bed.  You may add additional well-rotted manure or compost in late fall.

Lime and fertilizer applications are best based on a soil test. In general, two pounds each of actual nitrogen, phosphorus (P2O5), and potash (K2O) per 1,000 square feet of garden space is adequate

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Brussels sprouts,  a hardy, slow-growing vegetable they resemble miniature cabbages . Brussel Sprouts can be grown with fair success in most areas of the country. In mild areas, or where there is deep snow cover, the sprouts may overwinter.

Healthy well cultivated/ maintained plants should produce 50 to 75 heads. In all but the most northern states, and Provinces summers are usually too warm for completely satisfactory production from spring plantings. Plants set out in late spring to early summer grow satisfactorily and mature high-quality sprouts when the fall weather begins to cool.

Planting Transplant in early summer to midsummer . Spring planting is done from late April to early May, with fall plantings done in late June. The seed should be sown in a protected location in peat pots or seed flats, 4 to 5 weeks before transplanting.  {It will takes 90 to 95 days to reach full maturity .}Transplant the seedlings to the permanent garden location when space and time allow; but at least 90 to 100 days before the first frost date for your area. For summer harvest, you must plant transplants of an early, heat-resistant variety in very early spring. Sprouts maturing in hot weather or under dry conditions are more likely to develop bitterness. Fall production is the most practical and rewarding in most parts of the country. Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart in the row, or 24 inches in all directions in beds. Cover seeds 1/4 to 1/2 inch deep and transplant the seedlings when they are about 3 inches tall. Do not allow transplants to become stunted in the flats before transplanting. Watering Moisture during the summer is critical to keep the plants healthy Brussel sprouts are not very drought tolerant, plants will become stressed and growth will be impeded. Inexpensive water systems are available. Fertilizer Brussel Sprouts have high nitrogen and boron requirements, for a good harvest- Follow a nitrogen fixing crop in your rotation -such as  beans or peas if possible. Osmocote ,a time released fertilizer works well and has become very popular , lasting for up to 4 months. An organic fertilizer such as fish emulsion can be used bi-weekly. Soil Ph should be to 6.5 or higher [See Also Soil PH Companion Planting Brussel Sprouts share a symbiosis with Potatoes, Sage, Hyssop, and Thyme and have an antagonistic relationship with Strawberries and Rosemary Pest & Disease Problems for Brussels Sprouts Aphids are Yellowish-pink to pale green plant lice that suck ......plant juices. They are a soft-bodied, oval/pear shaped insect and are commonly found on nearly all varieties of plants, vegetables, field crops, and fruit trees. repels bugs from your plants, fruits and flowers. 100% natural spray uses pepper extract and wax to effectively discourage pests. Helps to reduce stress on cuttings. Aphids have many natural enemies such as lady beetle green lacewing larvae, and parasitic wasps that also help to control aphids. Whiteflies       [cabbage Whiteflies] Over 1200 known species of whiteflies. These tiny, insects feed in large numbers on leaf undersides by sucking out plant juices. They secrete a sticky substance called honeydew that may cause the growth of a sooty black fungus and also attracts other insect pests. Yellowing leaves are also symptomatic. White flies are visible to the eye and will swarm in large groups when the plant is shaken.  See  Whitefly Cabbage Moth and Cabbage Butterflies They lay their eggs on the underside of leaves. The larvae hatch from the eggs and then feed on the leaves and/or fruit. Alternaria leaf spot is a fungal disease caused by Alternaria dauci. It overwinters in diseased debris in the soil and it may be spread on or in contaminated seed ,or by the wind. The disease usually start on older leaf margins causing dark spots with yellow borders to develop. Spots on the leaf stems will elongate and kill the entire leaf. Infection most commonly occurs during the cooler portions of the growing season when the leaf moisture does not dissipate as quickly. Black Rot / Black Leg -Black rot is caused by a bacteria , Black Leg is caused by fungus and can affect all vegetables in the crucifer family. Above-ground parts of the plant are primarily affected, and symptoms may vary depending on the type of plant, age of the plant and the environmental conditions. In general, yellow, V-shaped lesions appear along the tips of the leaves with the point of the V directed toward a vein. -There are no chemical controls available, so disease prevention is very important. The bacteria survives the winter on plant debris and on weeds, It also can survive in and on seeds from infected plants. It can remain alive on plant residue buried in the soil for up to two years. The disease is easily spread . High temperatures and humidity favor development of the disease. Fusarium wilt - The first signs are drooping and  yellowing of lower leaves on a single stem. Earliest  symptoms may appear on only one side of the plant. Yellowing and wilting of the leaves occurs, and the plants may die. If the stem is cut , the water conductive plant tissues under the surface are sometimes discolored brown.  Favored by soil temperatures around 80 F, a low soil pH, Fusarium wilt is more common in southern latitudes. Harvest Harvesting should commence when sprouts are about 1 inch in diameter. Start at the bottom and harvest upward. If harvest is delayed until the lower leaves turn yellow, the sprouts will be tough and off flavor.  The flavor is actually improved by a minimal exposure to light frost. http://www.garden-gardens-gardening.com/

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Cantaloupe a/k/a  cantalope refers to two varieties of Muskmelon. Both of which are Cucurbits along with watermelons, squash and cucumbers. Like all melons, cantaloupes grow best in sandy, well-aerated, well-watered soil that is free of encroaching weeds.

Cantaloupe are a source of polyphenol antioxidants, which are known to provide health benefits to the cardiovascular  and immune systems. These antioxidants promote the formation of nitric oxide, a key chemical in the prevention of heart attacks.

Planting Canteloupe

Cantaloupe is a warm-season crop and should not be planted until all danger of frost has passed. The ideal climate for growing cantaloupe consists of a long, frost-free season with plenty of sunshine and heat, and relatively low humidity.

Planting should commence in the spring, when the soil temperature is 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Soil should be turned with the previous crop residues buried at least two to three weeks prior to planting. This will allow sufficient time for these residues to decompose.

After the seedlings have developed their third set of leaves they should be thinned to three plants per hill. Remove weeds as they grow, and hoe lightly to avoid disturbing the shallow root system of the plant.

Layer the ground around the plants with Mulch  to cut back on weed growth, increase soil moisture, and keep the soil continuously warm.

Some growers prefer to use transplants from as a way of obtaining early melons. When growing transplants, seed 2 to 4 weeks ahead of transplanting date. Commercial potting mixes work well since the growing medium must be sterile and drain freely. The diameter of transplant containers can range between 1.5 to 4 inches, with 3 inches being optimum for early production.

Many  Gardeners sometimes wonder why the earliest Melon blossoms do not set fruit. The first flowers developing on the vines are male or pollen-bearing flowers. Only the female flowers are capable of developing into fruit.

Watering
Irrigation prior to and after planting should be applied to ensure seed germination and  emergence  Drip irrigation provides the plants with a more uniform application of water, placing it near the root zone and using less water. Drip irrigation also minimizes the amount of foliage and fruit disease compared with overhead irrigation . Drip Irrigation does not interfere with honeybees and subsequent pollination and fertilization. Inexpensive drip systems are available.

For larger plantings – Drip systems can be easily adapted for the injection of fertilizer. This allows plant nutrients to be supplied to the field as needed.

Fertilizing

When setting out transplants, apply a common starter solution such as 20-20-20 . Medium-textured soils (loams) will generally produce higher yields and better quality melons. In all cases the soil must exhibit good internal and surface drainage. Mulching is also recommended to  help control weeds and maintain adequate soil moisture. Studies have shown that plants that are mulched grow faster and healthier than those that are not.

The optimal Soil pH range is 5.5 -7.0. See soil ph for more extensive information.

Pruning

Many cultivars produce excessive vine growth. Pruning the vines is necessary only if the melons are to be trellised, optional otherwise. Pruning is performed to achieve a balance between vine growth and fruit set, it increases fruit weight while reducing the number of undesirable melons.

Melon vines produce a primary stem with many secondary branches [laterals]. A suitable pruning treatment for cantaloupes and muskmelons is to retain the primary stem and one of the first laterals while pruning all additional laterals up to and including the 6 -7th leaf node. All secondary branches after the eighth node can be left unpruned on the plant. This method of pruning permits the vine to be easily trellised either by a net trellis or by using strings and  vine clips.

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Cucumbers, relatives of squash, melons, and pumpkins are a nutritious and tasty fruit [veggie-fruit], and are a good source of many essential minerals. They are also said to help aid digestion and constipation. Many people use cucumbers on their skin as a beauty aid, a cleansing cosmetic to soften and whiten. Cucumber juice is used in  beauty products

Planting Cucumbers

Cucumbers can be planted directly from seed, or from transplanted seedlings. Place cucumber transplant or Seeds outside only after the danger of frost has passed in your region  In USDA zone 4 and north , though, you’ll need to use short-season varieties and utilize cold frames.   I generally plant my seeds indoors , in peat pots several weeks before moving them outdoors, this practice leaves time for a second planting for fall harvest in mid- to late summer.

Loose, sandy loam soil is preferable, but cucumbers are a highly adaptable plant and will thrive in any well drained soil. Remove rocks, large sticks and trash before preparing the soil. Leave fine pieces of plant material such as dead grass and small weeds. They will help enrich the soil when turned under.

About a month ahead of planting, Spade the soil to a depth of 8 to 12 inches. This is about the depth reached by most shovels or spading forks, and is ideal for growing cucumber transplants.

Plant cucumber seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep and thin the seedlings to one plant every 12 inches in the row or to three plants every 36 inches in the hill system. Plant cucumber transplants 1 to 2 feet apart in rows 5 to 6 feet apart when they have two to four true leaves

Don’t allow the transplants to become overgrown within the containers this will hinder the transplant and adaptation process. Cucumber vines have shallow roots and require ample soil moisture at all stages of growth. When fruit begins to mature, adequate moisture becomes essential in growing cucumbers.

For best yields, incorporate compost or well-rotted manure before planting. Side-dress with nitrogen fertilizer when the vines begin to develop. A cucumber fence or similar support is also recommended Cucumber plants in individual peat pots or cell packs experience little or no transplant shock and become established quickly.

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Carrots, a hardy crop that can be planted in the garden in early spring. Carrots require larger amounts of moisture than other popular garden vegetables, they are not tolerant of drought. Prolonged hot weather in their later stages will retard growth and generally result in an undesirable strong flavor as well as a coarse undesirable fibrous texture At the other extreme, prolonged temperatures below 50 degrees F tend to make the roots longer, more slender and paler in color than expected. The best temperature for highest quality roots is between 60 and 70 degrees F.

Planting Carrots

Direct seed carrots into a well-prepared soil early in the spring. Suggested planting depth is 1/4 inch deep in rows spaced 12 to 18 inches or more apart depending on the method of cultivation used. It is important to avoid crusting of the soil around the seed-bed. Covering the seed with vermiculite or fine compost and keeping the soil evenly moist until the seedlings have emerged will help prevent this problem.

The soil should be worked enough to remove any physical obstruction to root development

When the carrots have sprouted, thin them out so the plants are approximately 3-4 inches apart to avoid overcrowding. . When the tops of the carrots grow thicker, thin them to about two to three inches apart. Some seed companies are now offering pelletized seed, making the seeds easier to plant and thin.

After plants are established, mulches will help conserve moisture and prevent excessive weed growth. Cultivation, if necessary, should be shallow in order to avoid root injury. Carrots require an evenly-distributed and plentiful soil moisture supply throughout the growing season. However, avoid too much moisture towards the end of the season as this will cause roots to crack.

Watch for the appearance of orange crowns at the soil level as the plants mature. If this occurs, mulch with soil or compost as the sunlight will turn them green. Carrots that are exposed to the sun turn green and bitter-tasting. To keep them orange and sweet, make sure the roots stay completely covered with soil.

Like most vegetables, carrots need at least 1 inch of water weekly during the growing season. Always soak the soil thoroughly when watering. this helps to promote good root development, but not excessively ,so as to avoid rot. Inexpensive Water Timer Systems are available.

To prolong the harvest, you can make succession plantings every two weeks until the temperature hits about 80°F, then, when temperatures cool in autumn, plant another crop for winter harvesting.

Fertilizer and Soil

Carrot plants thrive in deep, loose, well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Avoid stony, cloddy or trash-laden soils as they increase the incidence of root defects. Because raised-beds usually have loose soil and receive little compaction from foot traffic, they are an ideal location to grow carrots. Carrots grown on heavy soils may produce considerable leaf growth and forked roots.

Be certain to track the soil PH 5.5 – 7.5 is best for carrots

Carrots need lots of potassium. Boost your soil’s supply by sprinkling wood ashes over the planting area before you sow the seeds.

Avoid manure and other fertilizers high in nitrogen; they’ll encourage top growth at the expense of good root development. If your carrots turn out with a branch or two, it means they’re getting too much nitrogen.

Root crops- such as onions, beets, carrots, potatoes and turnips- need the support of soil that’s rich in potassium and phosphorus.

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Eggplants were once considered a Sexy Fruit. They were called “apples of love” by the Portuguese and Spanish . Medieval Europeans believed that eggplant was an aphrodisiac.  Botanists once classified them as ” Mala insana,”  -”mad apple,”- there was a belief that consuming Eggplant would cause insanity.

In modern times they serve as an excellent meal, and are quite frequently used as a meat substitute. They are a favorite of many North American Gardner’s

Planting Eggplant

Eggplant grows best in a well-drained sandy loam or loam soil, fairly high in organic matter.

Start early indoors in peat potsor cell packs

Rows should be 3 to 5 ft. apart. Plants should be 2 to 3 ft. apart

Transplants should be 8 to 10 wks old and slightly hardened, grown in 2 inch. or larger pots.

The outdoor environment can be very harsh for a transplant. So, harden the transplants before planting outdoors to increase their survival rate. Place them outdoors in their original containers where they will receive direct sunlight and some wind for a few hours each day for a week, possibly more.. Gradually lengthen the amount of time outside each day. Move the plants inside at night .

Climatic Requirements for Eggplant

The eggplant is a very tender plant that requires a long, warm season for successful production. The plants are killed by light frost and are injured by long periods of chilly, frostless weather. Plants should not be set out until all danger of frost has passed, and should be hardened first [See Above paragraph]

Set plants in the field when frost danger has passed, when the soil has warmed, and when the average daily temperature reaches 65°F.

Common Varieties of Eggplant

Twilight Hybrid Eggplant Packet tolerates heat and drought and is easy to grow. Vigorous and prolific, with good disease resistance. 62 days. Classic Hybrid Eggplant- Seed Packet withstands wind, strong rain, heat and sandy soil. 76 DAYS. Black Beauty Matures relatively fast. Excellent taste Fairy Tale Hybrid Eggplant (80 days; white, slightly sweeter than purple types; 6 to 7 inch oval). Eggplant Blue Marble Hybrid Eggplant NEW! Hybrid Eggplant. 62 days. Dusky Hybrid Eggplant 60 days to harvest Large Oval Fruit http://www.garden-gardens-gardening.com/

]]> http://aboutgardening.wordpress.com/2008/06/16/delicious-strawberries/ Mon, 16 Jun 2008 06:27:11 +0000 jerminix http://aboutgardening.wordpress.com/2008/06/16/delicious-strawberries/

Not many foods are as delicious as fresh strawberries, and most varieties are easy to grow–whether in a pot, in their own plot or as a groundcover in a flower bed.

Typically, strawberries are planted in late winter or early spring as soon as the ground warms up a bit. (Fall planting may be the best in the deep South.) Select the best variety for your area, and make sure you plant them in a spot that gets plenty of sun and has good drainage.

Strawberry Types

• Junebearers begin to bear fruit in June (or as early as April in Florida and California). Usually by the second year after planting, they produce a single large crop over a three-to four-week period. Junebearers also produce many runners and spread rapidly.
• Everbearers–as the name suggests–bear fruit the first year from June through August although the total harvest is typically less than that of Junebearers. They’re great for northern areas with long summer days, and they are easier to control because they produce fewer runners.
• Day-neutral strawberries are extremely productive and produce small but continuous harvests from June through October in northern climates and in January through August in milder climates. Day-neutrals are fragile and sensitive to heat, drought and competition from weeds.
• Alpine strawberries produce small but extremely tasty berries, and they are easy to control. The Alpine is one of the parent species of the other three strawberries.

Planting Strawberries

• Prepare the soil well. If you have less than ideal soil, add a few inches of compost. Also, your soil’s pH should measure between 6 and 6.5.
• Bare-root strawberry plants from the store look limp and dehydrated, and the first thing to do is rehydrate them. Just fill a container with water and add your strawberry plants, allowing them to suck up all the water they can for an hour or so. Pick off any blossoms or small fruits so that energy goes into root and foliage development.
• To plant, dig a shallow hole and create a cone of soil much like you would for an asparagus crown. Place the roots on the cone and spread them out. As you fill the hole with soil, hold the plant by the crown while you work to make sure it remains level with the soil line. Double-check to make sure it’s at the right depth, and firm the soil with your hand. If you plant strawberries too deeply, they will rot. If you don’t plant them deep enough, they will dry out.

For a raspberry trellis, you need less height and more depth. There are several ways to create the structure–placing one post in the middle with a cross arm or placing two posts about three feet apart (figure I). Raspberries are semi-erect, which means that as they get taller, they need support. Ingels uses four six-foot posts to form a six-foot-long rectangle. Lengthwise, each post is strung together with wire through the turnbuckle (figure J) so that the berries can neatly grow taller and wider. Black raspberries are another variety that’s gaining popularity; their growth habit is almost identical to the blackberry types that feature long, trailing shoots.

Planting

Once your trellis structure is built, you’re ready to plant. Generally, berries love organic matter mixed into the soil, but if you have only so-so soil, blackberries are your best bet. Remember to avoid planting too deep in the soil. Make sure you have a mound of soil so you’re planting on a slightly raised area. This way, water can drain away from the plant. “It’s really important that water doesn’t sit in a hole around your plants because they’ll rot,” warns Ingels. When planting, space raspberries about 2-1/2 to three feet apart.

Once your plants start growing, it’s important to differentiate between the old and new growth (figure K). During the first year, your plants may grow five to six feet; as it grows, tie it up along the trellis. “In fact, some years what I’ve done is tied a string down to the vine, and it’ll then grow straight up the string to the wire,” says Ingels.With the summer-bearing types, train the flowering canes along the wires and encourage diagonal growth. Then the primal canes should have plenty of room and sunlight to grow vertically between the two wires (figure L).

Don’t forget to train the new growth regularly or prune your brambles before they have a chance to ramble out of control. Water your berry plants well, add some organic mulch, and soon, tasty treats will be on their way.

These berries take some extra time and work in the garden, but the outstanding fruit will be your delectable reward.

There are two types of blackberries: the upright varieties grow vertically, and the trailing types send out horizontal runners . The trailing varieties like to set down roots and take off in the garden at the end of the growing season. In the fall, the terminal growth will grow into the soil and root to form a new plant, which may be a problem if you don’t want plants all over your yard. To prevent unwanted roaming, Ingels suggests creating a plant barrier. One such barrier is this in-ground device  that reaches about a foot deep into the soil. Barriers may be made of concrete, redwood, plastic, stainless steel, or pretty much anything that blocks meandering roots. However, most home gardeners opt for easier methods of keeping berries in check, such as diligent hoeing and a thick layer of mulch.

Managing where these plants grow is one thing, but managing how they grow is another. Most varieties of blackberries bear fruit on two-year-old shoots called floricanes. Next year, this year’s floricanes will be replaced by new shoots, primocanes. After they’ve fruited, the canes die back and should be cut down to make room for the new primocanes. While that may sound complicated, it’s easy to tell the difference between the old growththat requires pruning out, and the new growth  that bears next year’s berries. There is an exception to pruning brambleberries: for everbearing or fall-bearing types, cut those to the ground every winter.

Growing berries doesn’t require a lot of space. All you need is a long, narrow section–for instance, along a house or fence. To build a berry trellis, Ingels recommends using a posthole digger. Blackberries grow taller than raspberries and need to be trained upwards, so Ingels constructs a vertical trellis composed of two eight-foot-long 4×4s buried two feet in the ground and secured with a brace along the inside of the posts for stability. Next, he evenly spaces three screw hooks between the brace and the top and along both sides of the post . Onto each hook, Ingels places a turnbuckle and strings galvanized wire from one side to the other, twisting the wire to secure it in place. The turnbuckle’s screw pulls the wire taut.

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Apples are an autumn classic, and at the Pine Tree Apple Orchard in White Bear Lake, Minnesota, harvesting apples is not only a tradition, it’s a family affair. The Jacobson family has owned and operated the orchard since the 1950s. They not only grow and harvest their own apples, they make mouth-watering treats all in the name of fresh fruit. The secret to their success? Dividing dut

ies between family members.John, one of the brothers, says the best time to plant a tree is when frost disappears in spring. He digs a fairly deep hole– about 1-1/2 to 2 feet deep. He looks for the bud union on the tree and plants it an inch or two above the soil. And he says most homeowners really shouldn’t hav

e to worry about amending the soil if they’ve been fertilizing their yard.

As for pruning, John likes to create two layers of branches; the lower level is about 2-1/2 to 3 feet off the ground, then a two-foot area that has no branches, then another level of branches above that. The key is to open the tree up to sunshine.

John was able to solve a little mystery: sometimes a tree is loaded with fruit one year, and the next year hardly any. John explained that the tree sets up so many fruit in the first year that it takes too much out of the system; the tree doesn’t produce any fruit spurs during that year. So when the following year comes along, there are no fruit spurs, so the tree has to regenerate the spurs. To break the cycle, John recommends a little pruning: when the apples start to form and are 10 mm in size, or maybe even a little bit bigger, use scissors to remove excess fruit. Leave an apple every 8 to 10 to 12 inches on the branch.

John was also able to suggest a way to avoid spraying for worms every other week like directions often say. He recommends that apple growers spray four times a year–when the petals have just fallen from the tree, two weeks after that, then around the fourth of July, and then two weeks after that. Use a home orchard spray, available at home and garden center stores.

f you’re wondering what variety to plant, John’s sister Nancy chose six of the 24 varieties the family grows at the orchard as examples. For eating, Nancy recommended the Honeycrisp, which is explosively crisp–very, very hard and juicy, and very sweet.Another eating apple is the Regent: it’s sweet, dribble-down-your-chin juicy, and nice and firm.

If applesauce is your goal, then try McIntosh. It’s very aromatic and it makes a really creamy smooth sauce and apple butter. And it’s sweet too, so you don’t have to add a lot of sugar.

The Cortland is great for making a nice chunky white applesauce; it has a very white flesh, so it’s also good for salads.

For pie, Nancy recommended the Golden Delicious, (also good for eating), good with cheese and nuts too. If you want an apple fruit pie that’s not quite so tart and you don’t have to add a lot of sugar, Golden Delicious would be a good one. Once it’s cooked it still maintains its flavor.

And don’t forget the Haralson, which is tart, red and very juicy. It stays firm when you bake it, maintaining its slice, so it makes an absolutely fabulous pie.

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The homeowners would like to add more variety in their garden and have chosen to plant a peach tree. The peach tree Dawson chose is a self-fruiting variety, so it doesn’t need another tree for cross-pollination. Peach trees can be planted in Zones 5 and warmer. Plum trees are equally hardy to Zone 5. Check with your local nursery to find the best varieties for your area.

Dawson is planting a bareroot tree, which is harder to find than container trees. However, bareroot trees begin to arrive in nurseries in January and are significantly less expensive, often offering a greater variety of choice. They need to be planted while in their dormant stage–from December through February. Container trees can be planted anytime the soil is workable, except in extreme heat.

A healthy tree has fresh, plump, flexible roots. Try to plant the tree within two days of purchase. Soak the roots in a bucket of water for a few hours before planting and trim any broken or damaged roots. If you can’t plant within two days, keep the roots moist in damp soil and protected from frost until planting time.

To plant a bareroot tree:

• Dig a hole with enough room for the root spread. If you have heavy clay soil, add an organic soil amendment to improve drainage.
• Mound the soil in the center of the hole. Place the root flare (the area where the roots begin to emerge from the trunk) on the mound so that it is just below ground surface.
• Use half native soil and half compost to backfill the hole.
• Make sure the graft union is at least two inches above the soil line. If the graft union is in the soil where it stays moist, it can lead to fungus and rot.
• Water thoroughly.
• Mulch an inch or two thick around the tree, keeping the mulch away from the trunk.

The tree will produce fruit in two to three years, and you can enjoy the fruits of your labor.

If you live in the warmer climates of the U.S., early winter is the best time to plant fruit trees, plants and vines.

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Lemon, lime and orange trees are extremely cold-sensitive and only do well in the warmer parts of Zone 9 and warmer zones. If you live in a cooler zone (Zone 7), try tangerine or mandarin trees, which are the most cold hardy of the citrus trees.

Citrus trees need:

• Sunlight: Choose a spot that gets lots of sun.
• Cold tolerance: Even a moderate freeze can seriously damage or kill a citrus tree. If occasional freezing weather can be expected in your area, choose a planting site on the south side of a building for protection from colder temperatures.
• Moisture levels: Citrus trees grow best in well-drained, sandy soil. They like to dry out between waterings and prefer a thorough soaking around their drip line, the soil area under the outer limbs of the tree’s branches.
• Mulch: This is especially important during the initial growing period of new trees. It discourages weed growth and minimizes competition for nutrients.
• Attention: Citrus trees need little attention, just pruning to help form their structure when they are young.

Lemon trees produce fragrant flowers all year long. Most of the flower production occurs in late February and March. Once the tree is mature, it can produce hundreds of thousands of blooms. Only about 2 percent of the blooms result in edible fruit–which is true of all citrus trees.

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Persimmons, if unripe, are notorious pucker-producers. When ripe, however, they’re delicious. “There are so many varieties of persimmons, including Japanese and American varieties, light-colored flesh, dark-colored flesh, firm and soft,” says fruit expert Ed Laivo.  shows a coffee cake (‘Nishimura Wase’) persimmon.Persimmons don’t ship well commercially, so the selection at your local supermarket is likely to be limited. So what’s a persimmon pursuer to do? Plant your own tree! Odds are there’s a variety that will grow well in your neck of the woods. For example, the American persimmon always has to be used soft and is usually grown in the Midwest or the colder regions of the east coast. The Japanese varieties are all adapted to the milder coastal climates of the United States.

However, there are a few reasons these beautiful trees aren’t growing in everyone’s yard. According to Laivo, persimmon trees are a little more expensive than your average fruit tree because the propagation is expensive. Not only is the tree hard to bud, but the buds don’t always take, and sometimes less than 60 percent of the trees survive the digging. So growers like Laivo take on the challenge of propagating persimmon trees, and the rest of us can buy young, healthy, grafted trees at the nursery. Sure you’ll pay a little more, but the investment offers returns in other ways.

“Persimmon trees are really easy to take care of,” says Laivo. “They’re actually very adaptable to a wide range of soils, they’re disease- and pest-free, and basically drought tolerant after established.” Depending on your climate, persimmon trees can be planted in early spring or winter.

Persimmons are great trees for the home gardener, and they’re easy to plant. First, dig a hole wider than it is deep. Then, choose a plant with nicely developed roots. The crown should sit a tad above the soil line to accommodate settling (figure C). Laivo recommends backfilling the soil to create a pyramid in the center of the hole. Set the tree on top (figure D), and add enough dirt to fill the hole.

Laivo doesn’t amend the soil because the roots need to adapt to the nutrients that will be available for the next 100-plus years. Instead, he uses other protective measures like mulch. Mulch helps to cut down on evaporation and also keeps the roots cooler in the summertime. Laivo recommends high-density planting or several trees planted in one hole in smaller yards to provide lots of fruit, great pollination and easy harvesting all in one compact area (figure E).

Persimmons are also very easy to maintain, as far as pruning is concerned. Simply prune limbs that are crossing and dangling. Laivo suggests structural cuts or cutting branches back to about the third bud inside the tree. Structural cuts create strong branches to support lots of fruit. Laivo also prunes for size control and doesn’t let his trees grow any taller than the height his hands can reach over his head. Anything above that is too hard to harvest without a ladder. Just remember the “kiss” method: keep it short and simple. Moderate pruning can also help reduce the tree’s tendency to be alternate bearing or fruiting every other year.

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Unlike other crops, mushrooms have no growing season and can be produced year-round. “They don’t know Tuesday from Saturday from Christmas,” Miller says. Mushrooms are saprophytes, which means they live on dead or decaying matter. They have no chlorophyll, which makes plants green, and they need no sunlight to grow. As such, they grow on blocks of sawdust that sit on racks in three darkened climate-controlled growing rooms in Miller’s Quonset hut.

“It’s not brain surgery by any means,” Miller says. And that’s a good thing, because Miller is not a brain surgeon; actually he was a banker by trade for 17 years. A couple of years ago, he tired of the banking industry and was looking for a business to buy and operate. A neighbor who is a business broker showed Miller all the for-sale listings at the time, and the mushroom farm did not catch his eye. But the broker friend suggested he might want to check out the farm, which had been in existence about four years.

“I laughed,” Miller says. “I just kept laughing at him, never imagining I could be a farmer.” But then he took a look at the farm and its operations. Once I saw how simple it was,” he says, “I started thinking about it.”

And then he bought the place and started doing it. He orders six-pound blocks of oak sawdust that are impregnated with shiitake mushroom spores from a supplier in Pennsylvania. Oyster mushrooms are grown from hanging plastic sacks of sawdust.

The blocks are soaked in water overnight and then placed on shelves, which are wheeled into a growing room. In about a week, in a 65-degree to 70-degree room with controlled humidity and an elevated level of carbon dioxide, little nubs begin to appear all over the blocks. In about 10 days, the shiitakes mushrooms are ready to harvest.

After this “first flush,” Miller soaks the sawdust blocks again, and they produce another round of mushrooms about 10 days later. The blocks produce about three or four crops of mushrooms, and then Miller discards them outside, where the sawdust just melts into the soil after a few months.

From picking, the mushrooms go into a 36-degree refrigerated room at least for a day, where the lowered temperature removes the heat from the mushrooms and begins to bring out their flavor. After a day in refrigeration, Miller boxes them and delivers them to a local produce wholesaler, which then delivers them to restaurants. One of his mushrooms could be on someone’s dinner plate as soon as three days after it’s been picked. Mushrooms from Pennsylvania or other places could take as long as a week. Shiitakes have a shelf life of about 2-1/2 weeks; oyster mushrooms less than two.

“It’s a big difference from the world of banking,” Miller says. He spends from three to four hours a day, seven days a week, working on the farm. He’s found it’s given him more time to spend with his son and daughter, but it’s tougher to take a vacation or to take a day off, because the mushrooms don’t stop growing.

On weekends during the school year and any day during the summer, Doug, 11, and Vicki, 14, may come out to help and give Mom, Doreen, and Dad a hand on the farm. “It’s OK,” says Doug Miller of mushroom farming. “The good thing is the blocks are pretty heavy, so it’s like working out.”

The sixth-grader hopes it will help him get in shape for football. As Miller sees things, he’s still in the fun stages of being a mushroom farmer. Looking long-term, he envisions expansion: a refrigerator truck for farther deliveries, a couple of employees.

“So far, I’ve kind of stretched the rubber band as far as I can stretch it myself,” he says. He’s deciding now whether to go ahead with expansion or to sell the place and let someone else expand it, and he actually has the farm for sale to see if there are any takers.

But meanwhile, Farmer Miller can be found in his 4,000 square feet of darkened, cool and damp fields seven days a week, every week of the year. It’s a peaceful job, he says, not much like banking. “I just turn the radio on, and it’s just me and the mushrooms and the radio.”

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This is not exactly a gardening topic but hey its still a vegetable

Spinach salad is as simple to make as it is good to eat. This version, a favorite of Paul James, serves four:

3 cups of fresh and thoroughly washed spinach or other greens
4 slices of bacon
2 tablespoons of apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons of water
1 tablespoon of sugar
1 egg

Cut the bacon crosswise into half-inch-wide pieces and fry until crispy. Remove the bacon from the skillet, reserving the drippings. Next, add the vinegar, water, and sugar to the skillet and bring to a boil. Meanwhile, beat the egg.

When the contents in the skillet begin to boil, remove them from the heat and add one-quarter of the beaten egg, stirring constantly so you don’t wind up with scrambled eggs. Add the remaining egg, and continue stirring constantly until the mixture is well blended. Place the skillet back on the burner on low heat, and stir some more until the mixture begins to thicken. Then add the bacon, pour the dressing over the spinach and toss.

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