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Saint Laurent Cut From 2015 Oscars, Scores Four Nominations In France

Saint Laurent, directed by Bertrand Bonello, did not make the short list for the 2015 Oscars best foreign-language film, but it did come out as the lead nominee for  229 more words

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I’m sitting in the basement party hall of an Afghan kabob restaurant, surrounded by my cousins and my second cousins. This is an all-women party to celebrate the Hajj of one of my aunties. 486 more words

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Understated, refined, trailblazer. Gaspard Ulliel breaks the rules with his laid-back, clean style. He doesn’t care about what’s in fashion but rather decides his own look. 34 more words

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聖羅蘭-時裝巨人的狂情歲月

Saint Laurent(時裝巨人的狂情歲月)(台譯:巴黎聖羅蘭)

文:歌德

一直只聞樓梯響的聖羅蘭自傳電影,在去年終於獲授權開拍,一拍就鬧雙胞胎,年頭先有以Pierre Niney為主角的《Yves Saint Laurent》,而這部在今年康城電影節首映的《時裝巨人的狂情歲月》不論在卡士、演技、美術、音樂都比前者出色,亦是法國型格男演員Gaspard Ulliel最佳作品。

《時裝巨人的狂情歲月》長達兩小時三十分,講述了聖羅蘭的下半生。在七十年代的聖羅蘭,早在Christian Dior當助手學滿師,與拍檔兼愛人貝爾傑建立自己品牌設計高級訂製服(haute couture),在巴黎甚有名氣。每天都躲在工作室裡創作、畫圖,必要時替名人貴族作形象設計,貝爾傑則負責財政、宣傳、管理員工這些不在創作範圍的工作。戰後法國巴黎生機勃勃,夜夜笙歌,聖羅蘭與朋友夜遊酒吧、沙龍跳舞談天說地,就在這兒發掘名模Betty Catroux。這時期配樂都採用輕快的舞曲及型格的搖滾音樂,包括Creedence Clearwater Revival、The Velvet Underground、Frankie Valli & The Four Seasons、Patti Austin及The Metros。

設計出驚為天人的Le Smoking後,聖羅蘭事業更蒸蒸日上,工作室因此不勝負荷要擴張,貝爾傑更替他買回聖羅蘭名牌的擁有權,同時跟隨潮流將市場擴大到成衣市場(Ready-to-wear)。這位時裝巨人事實上與常人無疑,同樣有人性的弱點;包括在早年軍營的生活令他養成他濫藥的習慣;當設計師壓力不少,尤其當聖羅蘭是全法國的焦點所在,每年要推出一定數量的高級訂製服,現加上成衣,壓力是加倍的。 172 more words

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