Everyone wants a pub to call their own and now you can at MyPlace Pub in the Bloor West Village.    And according to owner/chef Brad Long they’ve only been open a week and they already have regulars!  And I can see why with the great selection of beer, wine and upscale pub food.   Were not talking greasy, overbattered fish and chips either.

I had the Black Cod fish-and-chips that literally melted in your mouth.  Of course, I washed it down with a Blanche de Chambly, a Quebec white ale with great acidity and citrus notes.  Other great beers of note including Mill Street, Muskoka, Steam Whistle and Big Rock, but also stouts and dark ales.

But let’s get to the wine list.  It’s very Ontario-focused, including red and white wines from Tawse, Flat Rock, Stratus, Henry of Pelham and Malivore to name a few.   For dessert, they even have a Prince Edward County Ice Cider, which would go great with their Norfolk Empire Apple Pan Dowdy.

I also had the opportunity to taste the Kozlicks Triple Mustard Crusted lamb chops, which I think it would pair well with the Prospect Shiraz from BC, and the pierogies which re hand made in house.  Hands down, these are the best pierogies I have ever tasted and they would be a fun match with the Tawse Echos Chardonnay.

There are too many great dishes to list, so head down one night have a seat at the bar, cozy up in the newly covered banquettes in the dining room or head up to the roof top patio to take in the last few nights of summer!

It really is ‘touch and go’ at CLO Wine Bar.  When I was in NYC this week, I stopped by the bar, located in the Time Warner Center at Columbus Circle.   When you walk in, you are greeted by a friendly host who explains how to locate a wine on their unique menu system.  You hold your hand over the table and a menu screen appears and you use gestures to navigate through over 100 wines available.  The display gives you all the information you need about each wine such as producer, region, grape, vintage, price, tasting notes and bottle location in the bar.  Once you pick your wine, you walk over to the machine, insert your card and voila!  Every wine (except sparking) is hooked up to an Enomatic machine and gives you an exact 4 ounce pour of the wine of your choice…just make sure your glass is underneath the spout.  Then you can go back to your seat and enjoy your wine.   There is a small menu available to enjoy a cheese plate or charcuterie with your wine.

I thought the concept for this place was great, but I was hoping for 1 or 2 oz pours to allow for an opportunity to taste more wines.  Trust me, after a few 4 ounce pours, they will all start to taste the same.  Not only that, but your bill could be well over $100 for wine samples alone.  Now, if you ever wanted to try a glass of Krug champagne or Opus One without splurging on an entire bottle, then here is your opportunity!

Since having recently come back from the Willamette Valley in Oregon, I have had hankering for Oregon Pinot Noir.  But what would I pair with it?   I’ve been craving a really good pulled pork sandwich and decided to try The Stockyards Smokehouse and Larder near my house.  I was also in luck, as the LCBO recently released some great Oregon Pinot Noir to our market here in Ontario.  Much to my delight, I was able to pick up the 2006 Maysara Jamsheed Pinot Noir, with its beautiful cherry and earthy flavours.  What an amazing match in terms of flavours of both the food and wine and the finish was outstanding. Their pulled pork sandwich was one of the best I have had in a long time, the BBQ sauce just having the right amount of sweetness and acidity.  I also liked the coleslaw topping, too. I hear the ribs at The Stockyards are amazing but, alas, only available Sundays, Tuesday and Friday…stay tuned!

One of my weaknesses is the often silly Bachelor/Bachelorette reality show. Don’t ask me why, but every season I’m hooked. Perhaps, I’m fascinated by people looking for love on national TV or perhaps the show is much easier to watch with a glass of wine in hand, which is perhaps the best way to view this show.

If you watched this Monday’s episode, you couldn’t miss the scene in the wine cellar at the Bearfoot Bistro restaurant.  I spent more time figuring out what wines were in the cellar than watching what Jillian (the Bachelorette) and Michael (one of the remaining men) were saying to each other.  As best as ABC tried to cover up what was in the cellar, I spotted verticals of Dominus, Tignanello, Domaine Serene from Oregon and Opus One. I saw lots of great Magnums from some of the same producers, too. And to boot, there was sofa in the wine cellar…hmm…wonder what goes on in here after-hours…  I’m sure there’s a lot of what happens in the wine room stays in the wine room nonsense going on.  This restaurant does have an amazing wine list.

Although much to Jillian’s dismay “none of the bottles, seriously, are from the 1800s.”  The oldest bottle happens to be a dessert wine, a 1907 Blandy, Bual from Madeira, Portugal.   Note to Barefoot Bistro – you spelled Madeira incorrectly on your website and I’m happy to recommend a good sommelier.  But Michael, you were right about the dust on the bottles, I had to pause my PVR to catch it on a few!

Then we got to see Jillian try and open the Champagne with a saber. (no, it was not a “light saber” for all you Star Wars geeks out there.) Kudos to Jillian for doing it quite well although it seemed like half the bottle squirted out on the floor. I like the idea of sabering, but there seems to be a lot of wasted Champagne. Unless the sommelier is a trained professional and promises not to spill an ounce, then I would go for the more traditional method of opening champagne. If I’m ordering a bottle of Vintage Dom Perignon or Krug Champagne there is no way I’d want to lose a drop! But hey, something cheap and cheerful – go for it!

But the best line of the night came from the Wine Director/Manager who said “You know what they say about Champagne?  Burgundy makes you think of silly thoughts, Bordeaux makes you talk about them and Champagne makes you do them.”  Like who makes up this sh!t?    My guess it was the producers, but man, there are way better quotes about Champagne than that one.

If you are a fan of the Bachelor/ Bachelorette show, you need to check out my fellow Facebook friend’s website www.realitysteve.com for his slant on the show. He has a great sense of humour and really tells it like it is.

The annual dilemma if you have the Dad or Father-In-Law that has everything (like most of do).   Beside from taking your Dad to the movies to see The Hangover for great Father and Son bonding, here are some wine suggestions that will have your Dad or Father-In-Law running back to the store for more!

For the Strong, Silent Dad:  I think a great Malbec would be perfect.  The 2007 Domino Del Plata Susana Balbo Signature Malbec ($27.95) is no exception.  Think baking spices and mocha here with a long, generous finish.

For the Dad who drinks white wine:  2007 Stags Leap Chardonnay is a great choice.   It’s a classic Burgundian style Chardonnay but from Napa Valley with pear and green apple notes, great acidity with a fantastic finish.  Yes, I know it’s $29.95 but hey, your Dad is worth it! 

For the cheap and cheerful Dad:  I have the perfect Portuguese wine, it’s the 2006 Duque De Viseau Red from the Dao region.  Very approachable with red berry fruit characteristics this little gem pairs well from any on the BBQ to just drinking on it’s own and it’s only $13.95. 

For the Sports Dad:  I know beer is perhaps an obvious choice, but I think the 2006 Kaiken Ultra Malbec would make an excellent selection.   Lots of ripe black fruit and it’s a great price at $19.95. 

For the wine aficionado Dad:  What dad would not be totally blown away getting a bottle of the 2004 Ségla from Bordeaux?   This is the second wine from Château Rauzan-Ségla located in Margaux.  This wine. when I tasted it, is coming along nicely. but it is highly complex and needs time.  Why not pick up a bottle for your own cellar, too!   Definitely not for the drink-it-now type.  

And saving the best for last, for the Dad who appreciates a good wine: Try the 2006 Fattoria dei Barbi Morellino Di Scansano.  It is mostly Sangiovese (85%) and really reminds me of a lighter Brunello and it won’t break the bank at $17.95 a bottle.  Very approachable and great with steak or lamb kebobs.   This is the hit of the Father’s Day release at LCBO Vintages this month. 

Happy Father’s Day!

World Class Wines, as wine contributor to TOUR DE FARM,  is very pleased to share selections that come from our portfolio of family producers for the first Tour de Farm dinner of 2009.  We picked these growers because they embrace the philosophy of naturally made, hand-crafted wines from vineyards that proudly leave a legacy for the generations that follow.  As more Americans are drinking wine it is important to support the efforts made by family producers from around the world in the interest of conserving the kinds of vineyard practices and winemaking that makes these people proud to put their names on the label.

CAVA- Juve y Camps “Reserva de La Familia”, PENEDES, SPAIN  NV

One of the greatest parts of being in Barcelona is what many would call the “CAVA HOUR”.  In Spain, it’s that just after work, not quite tapas time, when you need a little ray of sparkling sunshine in your life.  The Xampaneria, a bar specializing in CAVA, overflows with people onto the sidewalks and streets around 7 pm.  Ask any Catalonian who the most respected and famous producer of Cava is in Spain and you are sure to get the answer “JUVE Y CAMPS”.  Cava is made in the same method as Champagne, the wine is fermented a second time in the bottle except the grape varieties are indigenous: Parallada, Macabeo and Xarrel-lo, the essentials to classical Cava.  The Reserva de La Familia Cava  is aged for 3 years on the yeast, giving a nutty aroma that mixes with apples and lemons, boisterous and lively bubbles and an assertive acidity that wakes you up and refreshes you.  Perfect for a summer day! Reserva de La La Familia is very appropriately named as it has been the everyday favorite of the  Juvé Raventos family for three generations.

LUSTAU “Jarana” FINO SHERRY

Perhaps one of the most misunderstood wines of the world, FINO is to be thought of, managed, stored, chilled, and consumed as one would a fresh white wine.   It gets its character from aging in wooden barrels, under a blanket of yeast that protects it from oxygen, while being refreshed with younger white wine over a period of about 3 years.  It is DRY and carries the flowers and fruits of white wine, but has the added complexity of the environment around it as the yeasty protection flavours the wine with its character of minerals, yeasts, iodine, and sometimes even a salty note of the sea.  It is one of the few wines that can go gracefully with spicy meats, piquant olives or spicy ham.  No wonder it is so traditionally consumed with tapas.  Lustau, owned by the Cabellero family is a testament to high quality Sherry.  They take no shortcuts and are renowned as one of the great Sherry houses.

KURT ANGERER Gruner Veltliner  “Freisenrock”, KAMPTAL, AUSTRIA  2007

The wine growing estate of Kurt Angerer is a family business and has a tradition of 150 years.  Located in the Kamptal region the vines have south and southwestern exposure protecting them from the rough north winds.  Due to Kurt Angerer’s lack of compromise and commitment to high quality, both in the vineyards as well as during vinification the wines are considered some of the best in Kamptal.  Angerer feels strongly attached to tradition and his vineyard “terroir” which is evident in the names he has chosen for his different wines: Freisenrock refers to the loam this Gruner Veltliner is planted in.   He is also organic in his practices. Rooted in the soils of the Kamptal yet a man of the world, Kurt has found his own style which is being validated by the international awards and achievements he is now receiving.  The Freisenrock, has pineapple and papaya with a little bitter lemon peel that mingles with a minerally note.  Dense but never heavy as its weight is lifted up by a snappy acidity.

LIVELI “Orion” Primativo, PUGLIA, ITALY

The Falvo family has long reputation as a great wine making family in Montepulciano Italy.  10 years ago they purchased this estate in Puglia because it offered a history of great vineyards and old vines.  They overhauled the winery, and set up organic practices in the vineyards, many of which are high- density plantings in the “spoke and wheel” manner of the ancient Romans.  The Primativo, also known to us as ZINFANDEL, is an example of the innovative changes they have made at Liveli.  It is redolent of black cherries, Moroccan spices and herbs, high-toned for a full bodied red, the freshness is amazing considering the warm climate of Puglia.  So juicy, it’s easy to match with any food.

GRAHAMS 10 year TAWNY PORT

It is a tradition for the Symington family to take their Tawny port chilled in the summertime, a necessity in the searing heat that bounces back and forth off the slate slopes that flank the Douro river.  So often we think of Port being sipped by the fireside on a snowy Minnesota evening.  It’s quite a different image to think of patios that overlook orange trees blossoming on rocky terraces above the river, and the clink of ice in a glass, the smell of lemons being sliced, the salty taste of fried almonds followed by the strong and sweet taste of a chilled white or tawny port.   A very summery Portuguese moment indeed!

I cannot remember the last time I had or ever made Hamburger Helper. Since moving, I am in an area that gets all kinds of free samples from cereal to tuna. So you can imagine my surprise when a box of Lasagna Hamburger Helper arrived at my doorstep.

Considering the economic times I thought I would get in the spirit and whip up this dish. Of course, I did use organic extra lean ground beef from Beretta Farms which cost me triple the price of normal lean ground beef purchased from a discount grocery store. I followed the recipe and made the creamy version by adding a bit of milk to mixture.

While it was cooking and tasting the flavours in the dish, I was trying to think of wine to pair with it. For white, I was thinking Chardonnay with some barrel aging to as it would have a more creamier texture than an unoaked Chardonnay. It would also have to have good acidity, too. So I was thinking a Sonoma or even Ontario Chardonnay would work here. For a red, a Valpolicella or Chianti would work as both have nice red fruit flavours and great acidity. I decided on a 2007  Barbera D’Alba ‘Torriglione’ from Renato Ratti which is currently available for $19.95 in Vintages. This wine hails from the Piedmont region in Italy but most people know this area for Barolo. What is so great about the Barbera grape variety is that it is very approachable when young and pairs well with many foods because of its high acidity.

What a wine! Very floral on the nose, lots of violets here but also had nice red berry characteristics both on the nose and in the mouth. Very nice finish too. Although the alcohol on the label said 14%, it was well integrated in the wine and did not over power the dish. It was so good it had my husband and I going back for seconds not only for the wine, but the food too.

Would I make this again, for sure but it’s our family’s little secret!

With the Toronto Maple Leafs and Toronto Raptors out of town this week, I totally indulged at the Body Blitz Spa late this afternoon with a total head to toe scrub.   When I got home shortly after 7 p.m.,  I decided to pull out one of my Bertolli dinners from the freezer.  I decided on the Steak, Rigatoni and Portabello Mushroom dish.   The pairing according to the Villa Bertolli website suggests a Pinot Grigio of which I had none.  So,  I looked through my wine cellar looking for an alternative match.  It had to have good acidity but not overly sweet or full bodied.  So I decided on the 2004 Chardonnay Semillon from Hester Creek located in the Okanagan Valley.   At  only 12.9% alcohol, I knew that it would be light bodied enough to not over power the dish.   All I can say is “wow” what a fantastic wine.  It is drinking very well now and has a lot of tropical fruit notes without being too fruity.  The acidity was still there and I thought the match with the food went very well.   Because it had some age, the colour was deep gold and very bright.  I found the Semillon really shone through as I got a bit of oilyness on the finish.   This one would have been tough for me in a blind tasting for sure!

Anyone who is a wine lover usually learns early in life that Thanksgiving is not a time to share your cellar’s treasures. Oh sure, these are the friends and family, that you would donate your kidneys to, but let’s say you’ve selected one of your slumbering babies, carefully cradled it to the table,  announce the arrival of a very special addition to the feast as you carefully ease  the cork from the bottle. You pour yourself a taste, delighted that it’s superb, you pour it for your guests, only to realize you are alone in appreciation. Your sister claps a hand over her glass reminding you she is in training, your auntie tastes it and screws up her mouth declaring it “too sour” for her tastes,  mom tries to be supportive sipping carefully and nodding but when you aren’t looking refills her glass with Vodka.  Dad says “how can you afford fancy wines like this?” and your uncle says “this is like the one we had the Olive Garden last week – what was the name of that honey?”  Then there’s greedy cousin “hollow-leg” who fills his glass to the rim with your cellar nectar only because he’d never buy such an extravagant bottle for himself.   Oh yes, ’tis much better to keep your special bottle under wraps in the kitchen and supply your guests with  wines that conjure zero regret when you carry the bottles to the recycling bin.

Keeping wine gems tucked away assures you will not offend, and will keep your family relations in good form. Although I must say it was relief that I would never have to bring great wine to my in-laws celebrations.  Young and naïve, I thought everyone would have the same experience I did with wine. At 23 years old, I had discovered Burgundy.   It was such a revelation that so much character and flavor could be delivered in a paler, softer form.   I had exposed everyone who was not in the know!  I bought a bottle of 1978 Tollot-Beau Aloxe-Corton and brought it to my in-laws house. I poured everyone at the table waiting to see their amazed and surprised look as they tasted this wonderful wine.   My sister-in-law grimaced as she tasted it and then asked what all the fuss was about.  I quickly relieved her of drinking one more drop of this toxic elixir by pouring her wine into my glass.  I refilled her glass with Inglenook Rhine wine, fresh from the tap while she blotted Pinot Noir remnants from her tongue with her napkin.  She was saved from further punishment while I swilled and swooned.  I was never forgiven.

So what will I offer my loved ones at Thanksgiving this year? After all these years of conditioning my family, their favorite drink is Champagne.    I try to slip them good Cava and Prosecco during these recessionary times. They are definitely on to me.  They are willing to be duped if it’s Adami Prosecco as its fine bead and quaffability goes with almost any hors d’ouevre you can throw at it.  Since we usually have a sweeter Thanksgiving table (no brussel sprouts or wild rice) Gewurztraminer is a demanded favorite.  Last year’s Zind Humbrecht was a huge hit so I will be trying to hit that same level of distinctive fruit.  I love the lime leaf aroma and granny smith fruit of the Loosen Blue Slate. Red wine is a must for Brother-in-law Paul, so Pinot Noir will be on the table, this year Morin Chitry Rouge. Zinfandel used to be a great Thanksgiving choice but due to the evolution away from juicy and simple, to big, alcoholic and wooded, I haven’t had one on the table in a few years.  Seghesio would likely be the choice if I did decide to have Zinfandel.

When you think of wine growing regions, Japan isn’t the first place you would think of. While it’s true that many, if not most countries, are growing grapes, but is the quality of the wine any good? Recently I had the opportunity to put wines from Japan to the test.

First of all, there have been active wineries in Japan since 1875 and many have been passed through the family, in as many as four generations. The climate in Japan tends to be warm and very humid, with high rainfall which can make grape growing very challenging. After experimenting with North American grape varieties in the early days, the Japanese discovered some of their own varieties that do very well in their climate.

The Koshu grape variety is considered the star in the white category. This grape truly reminds me of Riesling with its green apple, mineral and floral notes with high acidity on the finish. I can see where this wine would be an excellent match with wasabi. Two of my favourites were the 2006 Rubaiyat Koshu Sur Lie and the 2006 Grace Gris De Koshu. Some of the other whites I tasted also reminded me of Chenin Blanc showing hints of honeysuckle, minerality and really high acid. Overall, I was quite impressed with a few whites and felt that they were wines that were not only food-friendly, but are great just on their own.

Koshu grapes

One red wine I tasted was the 2000 Chateau Sakaori made with a grape variety called Muscat Bailey A. This is a hybrid variety which is a crossing of Bailey A and Muscat Hamburg that was created over 100 years ago. This rustic wine really grew on me. I found the finish to be very savory with a dried cranberry flavour. This would be a great match with a savory Japanese dish such as Miso Glazed BBQ Duck. I also tasted from Obuse Winery, their 2005 Merlot Ordinaire. This wine is extremely popular in Japan and sells out almost immediately upon release. If you have the chance to fly on Air Nippon throughout Europe make sure to look for this wine.

As the North American market has developed a taste for Sake over the last decade, I hope I’ll see some of these interesting wines added to wine lists across the county.

Last Thursday, I attended this fantastic event held here in Toronto and thought I would share some of the highlights for me at this tasting.

Let’s begin with some whites:

The quintessential Sauvignon Blanc:   The 2006 Chalk Hill Sauvignon Blanc had lots of ripe tropical fruit and minerality backed up with great acidity on the palate.  This wine was fermented 50% in stainless steel and 50% oak.

Favorite White:  I had two favorites here.  First was the 2006 La Crema Chardonnay with its mango and peach flavours touched with a kiss of oak.  The second was the 2005 Chalk Hill Chardonnay.  Chalk Hill is known best for its Chardonnay, as these vines have been around since 1972.  This stunning wine had lots of banana and stone fruit as well as vanilla and a hint of spice followed up with a great finish.  I can see why Wine Spectator awarded this wine 90 points!

Moving on to the Reds:

Best Zinfandel:   This Zin really took me by surprise.  I picked the 2006 “Director’s Cut” Francis Ford Coppola Zinfandel from the Dry Creek Valley which is renowned AVA for growing Zinfandel.   This wine is everything you want in a Zin–big black ripe fruit and spice with low tannins.

A must have Pinot Noir:  I absolutely loved the 2005 Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards Pinot Noir from Carneros.   This delicious Pinot Noir had just stunning cherry and strawberry flavours and could definitely hold up to any steak.

Yummy, plummy Merlot:   This hands down was the 2005 Chalk Hill Merlot.  This wine is 79% Merlot and 21% Malbec.   I ended up chatting with the agent that represents this wine in Ontario and while we were talking it just got better in my glass.  Lots of dark plum, mocha and bitter chocolate here with an extra long finish.   Only 2000 cases were made of this easy drinking Merlot, so you’d better get your hands on some fast.

Best Priced Cabernet:  I love to find hidden gems and this Cabernet truly did it for me.  The winner here was the 2005 Souverain Cabernet Sauvignon from the Alexander Valley.  This wine was very complex with black fruit, clove spice and pencil shavings, all the right makings of a fantastic Cabernet.

A lot of these wines are available through the winery so check out their websites for more information.

Yes, it’s true Nabisco Foods (the company that owns the Triscuit brand) is getting into food and wine pairing.   The September 30, 2008 issue of Wine Spectator has a two-page ad from Triscuit featuring their “Rosemary & Olive Oil” cracker paired with 3 cheeses.

The really cool thing is that there are recipes to go along with each pairing.  For example, take their Herby Blue Cheese and Pear recipe.  I personally would not pair a blue cheese with a Chardonnay because the blue cheese flavour is typically quite strong and, in most cases, would over power the wine.  But in this recipe, they are using a creamy blue cheese which is not as strong, adding 2 oz of milk (to thin the cheese), then spreading this on the cracker and topping it with a pear slice and some toasted almonds.  The sweetness of the pear and the toasted almonds help with neutralizing the cheese and enhance the fruit and toastiness of the wine.

The other recipes include a Creamy Smoked Salmon and Brie, topped with Capers and Crème Fraiche and a Zesty Monterey Jack and Olives topped with Orange Zest, which all pair well with an oaked Chardonnay.

Unfortunately, these fun recipes are not listed on their website, nor is this ad featured on their website either, even though they are currently running an on-line promotion with Turning Leaf Wines. Pick up your issue of Wine Spectator soon!

Note to Nabisco Foods: I love the ad in Wine Spectator, but remember that food and wine lovers are everywhere, especially here on the Internet.

Hidden Ridge Vineyards ... Sonoma

If you think about a ‘place’, it has a name you can attach to it. In wine, Chianti is defined, regulated, laid out.  Likewise for Rutherford, Santa Lucia Highlands, Barossa Valley, etc.  A ‘location’ is simply a spot of land, identifiable by a specific latitude and longitude (and thanks to Google Earth, you can zoom anywhere with perfect accuracy).

160 acres of mountaintop land.  Spring Mountain, to be specific.  52 acres planted to the top Cabernet Sauvignon clones.  Stunning views in a 360 degree panorama.  Your closest neighbors are none other than Paloma (!!!!!) and Pride Vineyards (!!!!!!). And, here’s the kicker, you can only label your wine with the ‘Sonoma’ appelation.

That’s the snafu that Hidden Ridge Vineyards finds themselves in.  We had a great visit with Casidy Ward, proprietor (along with her husband, Lynn) of this cherished property, and she explained that because of the specific location of this vineyard, it falls outside of all designated AVA’s.  Possibly some of the best Cabernet Sauvignon grown, yet it can only be labeled ‘Sonoma’ … and thus, it is worth less on the bulk wine market.  Rather than fight the system and try to get Spring Mountain AVA pushed to the other side of the mountain, they decided to make their own label and show just how special this place is.

[Sidenote: My co-worker Brandt and I were talking about our affinity for wineries that produce only one wine, from one grape, from property that was bought based on potential of quality rather than a gold-standard of place name (There aren't that many out there). It forces a winery to work harder, for the label of a place will not be there to help sell the wine (how many times has a sales pitch started with 'This is from Rutherford in Napa Valley...").]

Hidden Ridge Vineyards received 92 points on both their inaugural release (2003) and the current release (2004).  By any sensible terms, this wine is the equivalent of, or better than, almost all Napa Valley ‘cult wines.’ However, just as the winemakers have to work harder to produce this product (a two mile long dirt road following the spine of Spring Mountain gets you to the vineyards!), we have to also work harder to sell this product.

Take out the idea of place for a moment.  And instead focus on location.  After all, it’s the terrior that is supposed to be sacred, is it not?

Laying out the vineyards at Hidden Ridge

Although there was great potential for this film to recount the story about the infamous Paris tasting of 1976, I felt Bottle Shock struggled with its plot and character development.  Alan Rickman who played Steven Spurrier was fantastic in his role as the “snobby wine brit”.  Dennis Farina who played the American ex-pat “Maurice”, and Steven’s only friend in Paris, provided the comic relief in the film.  However, I would have like to have seen a bit more of Bill Pullman, who portrayed Chateau Montelena owner Jim Barrett.  Equally as shallow was Bo Barrett’s character played by Chris Pine.  Freddy Rodrigues, who I absolutely love in HBO’s  Six Feet Under, played Gustavo Brambila, whose character could blind taste any wine perfectly and, of course, was the first of the boys to have a liaison with young, attractive wine apprentice named Sam, played by Rachael Taylor.  Sam’s character, of course, provided the requisite love triangle between the two boys at Chateau Montelena.  I guess hot women were few and far between in 1970s wine country.

I certainly enjoyed the more technical aspects of the movie, which shows Bo & Sam driving out to UC Davis to get an explanation of the scientific reasons why their perfect-tasting Chardonnay turned brown in the bottle, which was then due to turn clear after a few days.  I thought the actual Paris tasting was fascinating to watch and seeing the “who’s who” of the wine world of the 1970s.   Portrayed at the tasting were Pierre Brejoux, from the French AOC and Aubert de Villaine representing DRC (Domaine de la Romanée-Conti), and there was even one women on the panel, which, considering this event took place in the 1970s speaks volumes.   I have to say watching Steven Spurrier driving a Gremlin and eating KFC straight out of the bucket in his car was quite entertaining.

Although this film struggles between drama and comedy from scene to scene and, whether you are a wine lover or not, I think anyone can find this film enjoyable and certainly gain an appreciation of wine and how this simple tasting not only put California wines in the forefront and changed the wine world as whole forever.

Pair this movie with your favorite oaky, buttery chardonnay and a bag of popcorn, and you have a match only made in California.

This morning at 9:30 am, Tuesday August 19th, the single most emailed story on the New York Times website was not that Obama has decided a running mate, it was not the war in Iraq, it was not the Olympics.  Here’s the true measure of the popularity of wine in today’s culture: it was about boxed wines.

A full third of all wine sold in Italy today is packed in Tetra-Pak.  The boxed wine selection in most stores is about five times the size it was three years ago (with several prominent large brands taking up less and less space, I might add).  It’s all about finding better, but not best, juice in boxes for the sake of convenience and environmental karma (plus value, of course).

(Sidenote: I still think that if a prominent Napa Valley Cabernet producer, somebody with a stellar reputation, released a TINY amount of their wine in box format — imagine paying $300 for a 3L box! — it would generate enough buzz to be the story of the year.  Talk about free advertising!)

However, the really interesting part is to be found here, in the New York Times comments section.  If you want to keep on the pulse of current public opinions, the newspaper comments section is a good place to find the more aggressive, passionate, and loud voices (that inevitably influence the more passive and quiet ones).

We all know Labour Day is just around the corner and there are still a few weeks left at the cottage this summer.  So, why not pick up a few interesting gems in the latest Vintages release in Ontario.

Whites

BEST FOOD MATCHING WINE is the 2007 Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling which is blend from four different Riesling vineyards in Niagara.  This wine is just as good on its own as it is with food.  If you like your wines with a hint of sweetness than this wine is for you.

FUN TO TRY is the 2006 Gracia De Chile Reserva Superior Chardonnay.  This organic wine is from the Bio Bio Valley in Chile which is a cool climate region suited for growing Chardonnay.  Tropical fruits dominate this medium plus bodied wine that would pair nicely with chicken on the BBQ.

BEST WINE WITH FRESHLY CAUGHT PICKEREL is the 2006 Fattoria Laila Verdicchio Dei Castelli Di Jesi Classico Superiore from the La Marche region in Italy.  This wine has a lot of citrus fruit and great acidity.   I really encourage you to give this Verdicchio a try!

Reds

There are a lot of great Chilean reds in this Vintage release but I thought I’d go off the beaten path here and see if I could find some other cool choices.

FUN WINE TO FOOL YOUR FRIENDS- 2005 Fontanafredda Barbera D’Alba Raimonda.  This Barbera is ready to drink now and will pair well with grilled meats especially Italian sausage.   Betcha none of your friends will be able to figure out this wine in a blind tasting but they’ll all love it!  And at $16.95, you’ll be picking up more than one.

FOR YOU ITALIAN FANS, I highly recommend the 2004 La Ragose Valpolicella Classico Superiore ($22.95).  This producer is well known for it’s Amarone but this Valpolicella is nothing but light as this wine is fermented with the lees and skins leftover from their fine Amarone!

GREAT VALUE- Go with the 2004 Finca Antigua Crianza.  This wine hails from the La Mancha region in Spain and is blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.  Think blackberries, blackcurrents and plums all integrated together.  Again a great match with anything from the BBQ.

Lastly,  this wine is not in this release but when I was at the cottage last week, I picked up a bottle of the 2004 Artesa Reserve Tempranillo ($25.95) from California. It was an excellent match with our peppercorn crusted strip loin and we didn’t even need to decant it.  Now the Artesa Cabernet Sauvignon is in this release but why not try something different for much less.

Oh, and most these wines I mentioned are under $20.00 (except where noted) so go ahead, be adventurous and surprise your friends this weekend!

Looking for a diversion between wineries?  Then head to El Dorado Kitchen located in downtown Sonoma where they serve lunch and dinner daily and brunch on Sunday.  I had the opportunity to dine here for lunch on my way to the Russian River Valley during my visit to Napa/Sonoma in July.

It was such a gorgeous day that I opted for the outdoor patio underneath the fig tree.   Much to my surprise, I was presented with a small cocktail menu and promptly ordered myself the “EDK Mojito”.  Let me tell you that it was a refreshing taste to my palate after a busy morning of wine tasting and spitting.   The mojito was absolutely delicious, just the right amount of light cruzan rum,  lime juice, soda and fresh mint.  Of course, I did have a long look at the wine list and loved the great selection of half bottles mostly from Napa and Sonoma.    The wine list itself was quite extensive and it broken down into grape varieties.  I loved the “off the beaten path reds” selection featuring some interesting wines such as the Viader “Dare” Cabernet Franc or the Verdad Tempranillo from the Santa Ynez Valley.

For lunch I had the salmon croquettes which consisted of a single salmon and yukon gold potato cake topped with a frisee in red pepper remoulade which was absolutely delicious.  Other lunch choices included a forest mushroom pizza (a nice Pinot Noir would pair nicely), steak and truffle fries and chicken curry flat bread.

Dessert is also a must have at El Dorado Kitchen and I indulged in the chocolate s’mores tart!  Picture a chocolate ganaceh sitting on top a graham cracker crust bottom, decandant merangine on top with vanilla ice cream and you have heaven in bowl.  I ate every last bite!  Other interesting choices included a chocolate sea salt cake and the homemade ice cream sandwiches such as butterscotch cookie with carmel icecream with a carmel dipping sauce.  Talk about over indulging in a good way!  Just remember to watch out for falling figs if you happen to sit under the fig tree!

Where else can you listen to Led Zepplin and taste an amazing Cabernet Sauvignon but at Cliff Lede Vineyards located in the heart of the Stag’s Leap District.  I was greeted by Rikki, who would be giving me a personal tour of this stunning property.   The open and airy tasting room leads you to the outdoor patio area, providing an amazing view of the vineyards.  On the property is a contemporary art gallery that combines the owner’s love and appreciation of art and wine.   Since the owner is also a lover of great rock music, each block of the vineyard is named after a rock song such as “Hotel California”, “Light My Fire” and “Stairway to Heaven”.   The stunning cellar located on the south-west side of the vineyard boasts an amazing view of the valley floor below and the steep hillside vineyards to the east (Vacas Mountain Range) with the Poetry Inn nestled right up there.  I loved looking into the fermentation room and seeing the picture of Grace Kelly keeping her watchful eye on the winemaking process.

During my visit, I tasted the 2007 Sauvignon Blanc, which had lots of tropical fruit notes on the nose and in the mouth, like mango.  For such ripe fruit and high alcohol the wine still had great acidity with a medium finish.  I also lucked out and was able to taste the sold-out 2005 Sauvignon Blanc.  The amazing thing was that the 2005 still holding its own, showing lots of fruit and great acidity even though it was already 3 years old   But the kicker for me was the 2005 Cliff Lede Cabernet Sauvignon which is 100% from the Stag’s Leap District.  Lots of black currents, black cherry, bitter chocolate, baking spices and cloves.  The fruit and alcohol were extremely well integrated and the layers of complexity of this wine was so refine.  I can see this wine being able to age another twenty years, if you have the patience, but it can be enjoyed now with a nice medium rare steak or lamb kabobs on the BBQ.  Or, even better, pair this wine with some great classic rock.

On the last day of my visit to Napa/Sonoma, I stopped in at Viansa winery located in Carneros, within Sonoma County.  I was told that there were many Italian varieties being planted here such as Sangiovese, Dolcetto, Barbera, Nebbiolo, and Pinot Grigio just to name a few.  Once I heard that these unique grapes were being grown in Sonoma, I knew I needed to see and taste for myself.

Upon arrival, I met winemaker Ron Goss and was told we would be tasting his 2007 “Pierina” Vernaccia for the very first time, so I knew I was on to something good.  This wine is perfect for a hot summer day and it has lots of tropical fruit characteristics such as pineapple and floral notes with great acidity and fruit on the finish.  This wine is dry and comes through very clean and mouth cleansing on the finish.   I also tried the 2007 Arneis, which had a lot of stone fruit characteristics, such as apricot and peach, and even some spice.  This would be a perfect wine with any Asian or Thai food with its richness on the finish.

I also tried the ‘06 Farneta which is 100% Primitivo.  Ron told me they actually use a Primitivo clone so they cannot call it Zinfandel.  This wine had lots of black raspberry, brambleberry and cloves.  The ‘04 “La Nebbia” Nebbiolo had lots of cherry and rose petal aromas and was very well integrated.  This would be the perfect wine to have with pizza from Viansa’s outdoor wood oven.

For the dessert wine lover, the ‘05 Late Harvest Primitivo is amazing.  Lots of raisins and fig, backed up with just the right amount of sweetness and the acidity.   This wine is a great alternative to port and can be paired with a bitter chocolate dessert.

Viansa is truly “the sweet life” in the heart of Sonoma.   The wine bar and tasting experience was like being in an Italian marketplace where you can sample wine and purchase a variety of wine-related merchandise and specialty foods.  You can also purchase olive oil, which is estate harvested from over one thousand olive trees located on the property.

The winery is very close to Infineon Raceway.  For those who are looking for a diversion from the noise and action of the speedway, Viansa would be the perfect choice to enjoy some fine wines, shop and have lunch from the outdoor wood oven.  The elevated view is spectacular and stretches quite far to the north and east overlooking the Viansa vineyards below.  So, sit back, sip and enjoy!

Shipping Containers. Image by Flickr user melted_snowball

They move the wine we love.  They transport millions of tons of goods across the oceans.  They are shipping containers, and like everything else, the price of using them is going up.

In the quest to help you understand the true costs involved in the wine business, it’s important that you read this snippit from an article in today’s New York Times about the cost of shipping containers.

Australian wine, which has dominated the under $8 market thanks to one brand alone, will obviously be the most affected … it’s a long trip from Sydney to the shores of California.  That is to say, that particular brand and others in its price range will be feeling a bigger hit vis-a-vis a percentage of their price.  But this transportation increase will be felt throughout the system and with any and all imported goods.  It’s suddenly far cheaper to consider American wines for the ‘affordable pour’ at your restaurant!

From the New York Times:

“The cost of shipping a 40-foot container from Shanghai to the United States has risen to $8,000, compared with $3,000 early in the decade, according to a recent study of transportation costs. Big container ships, the pack mules of the 21st-century economy, have shaved their top speed by nearly 20 percent to save on fuel costs, substantially slowing shipping times.

The study, published in May by the Canadian investment bank CIBC World Markets, calculates that the recent surge in shipping costs is on average the equivalent of a 9 percent tariff on trade. “The cost of moving goods, not the cost of tariffs, is the largest barrier to global trade today,” the report concluded, and as a result “has effectively offset all the trade liberalization efforts of the last three decades.”

One of my favourite beach spots in Ontario happens to be Sandbanks
Provincial Park.  It’s hard to believe you are swimming in Lake Ontario
since the water is so warm and clean.  This amazing beach spot is also in
the heart of Prince Edward County and some amazing wineries.

My favourite wine for the beach happens to be Riesling with it’s lower
alcohol  and great acidity making it very food friendly.  Therefore a stop
at Norman Hardie’s winery is always a must.  The winery is located just
seconds of Hwy 33 (Loyalist Parkway) at Greer Road.

Hardie has just released his 2007 Riesling, which if you are an Alsatian
style fan, this Riesling is a must try.  The nose gives you green apple,
peach and apricot with some nice minerality.  The finish is dry, Alsatian
style, balanced out with great acidity and fruit.

We paired this wine with some picnic style salads from Whole Foods in
Toronto, all of which paired very well.  Another great thing about Hardie’s
bottles is that they come with a screw cap so you don’t have to worry about
having a corkscrew on hand.  If you stop in, let Norm know you are going to
the beach and he’ll be sure to give you a cold one or two straight from his
refrigerator.

Want to out geek the wine geeks in the room? Start tossing around your ability to sense the umami in a wine. Introduced to me first by Terry Theise, who describes it as “the taste of yourself tasting”, umami has a legitimate role in the world of wine tasting, and definitely in the food world.

As said in a Wall Street Journal piece in 2007: “Chefs including Jean-Georges Vongerichten are offering what they call “umami bombs,” dishes that pile on ingredients naturally rich in umami for an explosive taste.”

So what is it?  It’s a Japanese word basically meaning savory, and it’s quite common in the likes of roasted tomatoes, seaweed, mushrooms, great aged cheeses, and anchovies.  Once you’re attuned to taking notice of it, it’s amazing how often it comes up in a wine.

In fact, I’ll go so far as to say this: the ‘new European red taste profile’ that Annette Peters has been talking about so much is based in the savory finish of many of those wines.  The new wines from Peuch Ariol, as well as new Sicilian selection forthcoming all contain this base of lasting flavor.

For more information on this fascinating subject, read this Wikipedia entry, take a look at this CBS News story, or this Wall Street Journal article.

Lastly, here’s a great article by Randy Capsaro writing for The Wine Lover’s Page on ‘Deconstructing Umami’.

It’s that dreaded time of year in the Toronto, so to speak, with diners coming to some truly fine dining restaurants in the City for Applebee’s prices.   What upsets us in the industry is that the majority of the guests will order the $30-35 prix fixe menu (some will even order meals to “share”), have only having tap water, definitely no wine (yikes!), and leave a meagre tip.  After reading a story last week in the Toronto section of the National Post, I can understand why some great restaurants are not participating.

Last night was the first night of Summerlicious here in T.O. and do you think I can get into a popular non-Summerlicious restaurant?  Not a chance in hell, unless I want a 9:30 p.m. table.    In the end I decided to call up Trevor Kitchen & Bar, who is participating in Summerlicious, and I can get a table for 8 pm, no sweat.   Upon arrival, we are greeted and seated right away. A somewhat reproachful server asks us the dreaded question:  would we like some water, still, sparkling or ahh…tap?   We immediately order a bottle of sparking which the server beams he’ll bring right away.   After that we order our 3 course “prix fixe,” then I do the unthinkable and order a decent bottle of wine!  Well, let me tell you the service I had that evening was bang on.   The server happily kept our wine and water topped up and after each course wanted to know how we were enjoying everything.  He even excitedly decanted our young pinot noir and removed the cheesy wine tumblers and brought us proper Burgundy glasses, all without asking.

Take my word for it, make this year’s Summerlicious experience memorable–order a bottle of wine and enjoy the best that fine dining has to offer!

(photo by Flickr user barron)

Happy Fourth of July to everybody! And in the quest for the ultimate summertime fare, keep in mind the wonderful combination of ribs (beef, short, pork, baby back, St. Louis style, Texas style, doesn’t matter!) and red wine, especially Zinfandel. Particularly good this year are the 2005 Seghesio Old Vine, and the 2006 Ridge Geyserville. Both are showing great expression and personality. Absolutely outstanding wines to have with ribs. Below are some great links regarding ribs and wine.

Wine Review Online: Wine with baby back ribs

Daniel in NYC: Short Ribs with Celery Duo recipe

Newswire article: Zinfandel makes a patriotic wine pairing with ribs

And finally, here is my own pork rub formula, guaranteed to increase your enjoyment of ribs. Rub generously on the ribs (or any pork cut) at least three hours before smoking. (A little hint as well: marinate the ribs in Italian salad dressing overnight before smoking them!)

We call this the ‘family rub’ because everybody in my household loves it. All quantities are in parts to make it easy to make as little or as much as you want.

3 parts Kosher salt
4 parts granulated garlic
1 part granulated onion
4 parts Spanish paprika
1 part fresh ground black pepper
2 parts raw cane sugar (don’t use regular brown sugar – too much water content)
1/2 part dried oregano
1/2 part rubbed sage

The mix can be stored in a tight jar, in the dark, for up to four months.

One of the hot topics in the wine world for the last three years has been the ‘globalization’ of flavor profile. We have all heard the stories and many have tasted the results … Pinot Noir that is more like Syrah, Cabernet from fill-in-the-blank that is loaded with hedonistic flavors, overt use of oak in white wines from traditional regions, etc. There is much SAMENESS in many wines.

But I want to take the discussion on a different path … I believe DISTINCTIVENESS in style is a virtue that should be kept separate from the question of QUALITY of a wine. This is a personal opinion, and many disagree with me, but let me explain…

I had a wine yesterday that I didn’t really care for. It was a single vineyard Pinot Noir from California that retails for about sixty bucks, but for this discussion it could have been anything. From the first sip I thought to myself “It just doesn’t have what I like in Pinot. Not enough of the silky texture, not enough earthy aroma. It’s a bit closed and unlike any Pinot I’ve ever had from there.” Upon doing some research, I found that this producer used little to no oak on this wine, and fermented only with wild yeasts. What I had become used to from this region were wines that were homogenized and guilty of ’sameness’. So even though I didn’t like the the wine much, it became a wine I found great intellectual pleasure in drinking, because it expanded my horizons about this grape and this region … even though it is not a wine I would seek out for personal purchase.

Another fine example are the wines from Rioja producer La Rioja Alta (label above). These wines are completely original in style, described by many as the ‘cleanest traditionally produced wines around.’ The Vina Alberdi Riserva from La Rioja Alta has aromas of black cherry, orange rind, dried leaves, and tobacco! One of the more amazing things about this wine are the fully resolved tannins (many thanks to Annette Peters for explaining that to me!). The wine is packed with tannin, but because the tannins are wrapped in glycerin in finishes smooooooooth. Again, not for everybody, but it’s distinctiveness is what makes it oh so intriguing. (Side note — one of the single best food and wine combinations of my life was this wine with charcoal grilled dry aged rib eye covered in sautéed wild hen-of-the-woods mushrooms).

How does this wrap into the wine business? Last week I was tasting with a local chef and he commented on a Syrah I was serving him being distinctive – for him in a really bad way … how he didn’t like the aromas (too much dried blood/meat … he likes macerated black raspberry), didn’t like the mouthfeel (quick lift of acidity at the very end of the finish … he likes softer wines), “I’ve never thought a Syrah could possibly taste like this! Blagh!” was the comment. As I was putting the bottle away he said “I’ll take two cases.”

“What? I thought you didn’t like it.”

“Doesn’t matter what I think and there’s nothing technically wrong with the wine. I know my customers come here to have their wine minds expanded. The last thing they want is the same old same old. This wine is perfect for them. Ship it tomorrow.”

Kudos to him. That takes guts.