The wood used on this knife was Osage Orange, I chose it because it’s natural oils help it remain stable in changing climates. I never would have guessed that it would hold up so well to being in a campfire!

Notice how the middle pin acted as a heat sink, the area right around it isn’t burned.

This end, with the exposed tang can be used as a bottle opener now!

Here are the new and old sheaths next to each other.

This Wine Rack was Designed by Hammersmith Studios For a client in Marblehead Ma.
It incorporates a Newport shell design and hand forged grapes and leaves .There is a hand hammered copper hood and forged iron frame . It stand 54 inch tall and is 2 and a half feet wide.

The blade is wrought iron/1084. The handle is beechwood, antler, and brass. The sheath is vegetable tanned cow leather.

Dimensions are:

Blade: 70mm
Handle: 95mm
thickness: 4mm

This Gothic doorknocker was made out of wrought iron sheet metal. The techniques and processes involved were, Repousse while the metal was hot which helped form the lions face
Decorative forging and chisel piercing and finially a specially mixed formula for the patinated finish

The lattice in Post 1 was from Powerscourt Town House, off Grafton Street. We had coffee there and enjoyed sitting outside inside. Doesn’t make sense? A 1774 town house has been restored and converted to house more than 60 boutiques, and the original open courtyard has been covered in glass and steel – home of the café.

This second lattice is the least conventional of the ones I have photographed in that it is not a repeated sequence. This is so clearly handforged and just beautiful in its own right. I’ll let you know tomorrow where I found it.

Scroll Iron Wall Clock with Copper Face, Hand-Forged in the USA

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I generally use new materials on all my knives, especially for the blades.  With a lot of used materials there is no telling what it’s really made of (metallurgically speaking) so it can be difficult to get the best heat treat out of the steel. When I sell a knife I like to have peace of mind, and know how it will preform over long term use.  There are some things that I love to repurpose for blades though, and good quality files are among my favorites.

This blade is made from an old Nicholson file that was dulled beyond use for much of anything, however it makes a wonderful knife! The handle is a black walnut cutoff from a local wood worker that I know  Chris Otto. The blade is 4″, and is very handy for all sorts of different tasks. This knife is for sale at my etsy store.

Blade length: 4 1/2″
Handle length: 4″
Blade thickness 3/16″

Like I said this is my personal knife and is not for sale, but I can certainly make one just like it for you.

I love making and using axes, however sometimes it’s a little hard for one person without the use of a power hammer or press, so I don’t end up making as many as I’d like. The method I’m about to show you is really great for a one man shop. It’s nice because unlike the standard “wrap around” eye this axe still has a poll (the back part of the axe) which balances everything, both physically and aesthetically.

This is a very small hatchet, the whole thing weighs only 1 pound making is capable of the most precise work.

The materials are wrought iron from a 100+ year old wagon tire, and brand new 1084 high carbon steel.

The first thing is to mark everything out. You want to decide on the length of your pole and measure out from the center of the bar the length of the pole in both directions. In this case I want a 3/4″ pole so I found the center, center punched it, measured out 3/4″ on both sides and marked that.

You also need to decide how large you want your eye. This is probably dependent on the size of your drift. There are formulas for determining this, but what i do is just measure the diameter of the drift and divide by two. From your last markings measure out the however far the diameter of the drift was divided by two, do this on both sides.

It’s important to leave enough material for the drift to just sort of ease open the eye. You don’t want to stretch the material (especially with wrought iron, but we’ll get to that later) because it’s already pretty thin, and your hole will not be as nice and consistent.

Next step is to draw out the cheeks of the axe. This will be the inside of the eye. Between the first and second set of markings from both sides is where your eye will be, drawing down the cheeks in this manner is much easier than trying to draw them down on the drift. Having pronounced cheeks on an axe really help when it comes to fitting a handle, it allows for much more wood to metal contact.

Use a ball pien, or a rounding hammer for this.  I guess you could use a small cross pien, but the ball just seems like a good way to do it.  If you’re working wrought like I am here be sure you’re only hitting the iron when it’s very hot otherwise it will split on you. This happened to me on the cheek, but being wrought it’s extremely easy to weld back together. Just heat, flux, and tap back together.

The next step is to flip the bar over, opposite the side you just forged, and cut half way through in the dead center of the bar. This will be the outside of the axe.

Fold the bar in half. Be sure the wrought is real hot when you do this otherwise it will snap in two, which wouldn’t be a problem really, this method just makes welding easier.

As you can see, the cheeks aren’t exactly the same. This isn’t a problem, as I’ll be profiling with a file or grinder later. Just a little extra work to reward the carelessness.

The next step is the welding, weld the pole together, then insert your high carbon for the cutting edge and weld that in place.

There really is not any magic to it just heat, bush, flux, heat some more, and weld. When I first started blacksmithing I was so intimidated by welding that I pretty much never tried it. One day I was frustrated that I couldn’t weld, so I went out to the shop and welded up a bunch of steel, since then I’ve had no problems.  I really think that the biggest obstacle that a young smith has is themselves.

Not to mention wrought iron is about the easiest thing to weld on the planet.

After it’s all welded up it’s time to drift the hole. No secret to this either, just drive in the drift almost all the way on one side, flip it around and do the same on the other side. This creates an hourglass shape which allows for a very good fit with your handle. If you’re making a tomahawk, or a different sort of friction fitted tool, only drift from one side.

Next start forging, use dies available (hammer faces, anvil parts, etc.) to move the metal in the direction you’d like.  Always work at a very high heat,  a little lower than welding temperature.

As you can see here the blade end of the wrought started to split again, no big deal. It’s easy to weld back, and in this case I’ll be trimming the edge a little bit anyway.

The axe is all forged out now, time for profiling, and stamping my mark.

Even with the heavy forging done to the high carbon steel, the grain will still be too big because of the multiple welding heats. The cure for this is to heat it up to critical (which is non magnetic for 1084 being that it is eutectic) and let it slowly cool. Depending on the rate of cooling it is either normalization, or annealing. I usually triple normalize my work prior to hardening.  Again this reduces the grain size making a more durable tool that obtains and keeps a better edge.

After the normalization cycles the blade is heated again to non magnetic, and quenched in warm oil.  Then it is tempered 3 times with a torch. An oven works well, even using the fire to temper is fine. The key is doing it multiple times.

Here is the head all sharpened up and ready for a handle.

For the handle I choose some nice straight grained shagbark hickory from my property.

A good axe needs a sheath

This is a very nice mini hatchet. It’s great for fine detailing work. Being only a pound it would be a great tool to bring hiking.

If you’re interested it can be purchased here.

I’m really starting to enjoy making laminated blades. Something about adding 100+ year old wrought iron into a knife really adds to the overall joy I get out of making and using These blades.

I just finished up this knife, it’s a wrought iron and 1084 laminated blade. The handle was a piece of oak that was about to be burned,but when I split it I noticed a very nice figured grain, so here it is, not in the fire.

Something else I did with this knife is really try to stick to the plan. I usually draw out rough sketches, but I never really consult them during the making of the knife. I feel like it paid off this time, I like how this one turned out. There are always things to be improved upon, but this is a step in the right direction.

If you’re interested, the knife can be purchased here.

The Collection

Hello beauties!

So I’ve been keeping an eye out for this collection for a while now and am so excited to get my hands on some of these gorgeous items! Every year MAC launches a huge summer collection and I’ve been eagerly awaiting this one as the last few smaller ones haven’t really got me very excited. I have prepared this post for you just so you can get a better idea of what you might want to get. Enjoy!

The Product List is as follows:

MAC Hey, Sailor Lipstick (LE)

• Red Racer – Bright yellow red (satin)
• To Catch a Sailor – Highly frosted tan (frost)
• Salute! – Neutral peach (amplified)
• Sail la Vie – Bright mid-tone orange (satin)

MAC Hey, Sailor Eyeshadow (LE)

• Crystal Avalanche – White with Reflects (veluxe Pearl) (Permanent)
• Barefoot – Tarnished Gold (veluxe pearl)
• Jaunty – Light yellow brown (frost)
• Feeling Fresh – Bright green (frost)
• Nautical – Navy Blue (satin)

MAC Hey, Sailor Pigments (LE)

• Old Gold – High frosted tarnished gold (frost) (Permanent)
• Naval Blue – Deep smoky blue (frost) (Permanent, PRO)

MAC Hey Sailor Powerpoint Eye Pencil (LE)

• Hand Forged – Metallic yellow gold (Repromote)
• Emerald Sea – Kelly Green

MAC Hey Sailor, Bronzing Powder

• Soft Sand – Golden bronze with fine gold pearl
• Refined Golden – Finely spun golden with soft pearl finish (Permanent)
• Blue Stripe – Dark navy

MAC Hey, Sailor Pro Long Wear Bronzing Powder

• Naked On Board – Bronzy, yellow tone
• Sun Dipped – Dirty red tone

MAC Hey, Sailor Powder Blush

• Launch Away! – True peach (Satin)
• Fleet Fast – Pinky, gold coral (satin)

MAC Hey, Sailor Nail Lacquer

• Vestral White – Creamy white (cream) (Repromote)
• Touch of Red – Bright yellow red (cream)
• Gold Knot – Brass gold (frost)

MAC Hey, Sailor To the Beach Body Oil

• Seaside- Dirty Blushy pink with multidimensional sparkles
• Man Rays – Glowing tan with gold shimmer multidimensional

MAC Hey, Sailor Suntint SPF20 Liquid Lip Balm

• Sea Mist – Peachy nude with pearl multi-dimensional
• Rose Au – Poppy Coraly pink with gold pearl
• Abalone – See through with no hot pink pearl

MAC Hey, Sailor Brush 167SH Face Blender

MAC Hey, Sailor Zoom Lash Waterfast Lash Mascara
MAC Hey, Sailor Waterfast Black

MAC Hey, Sailor Gone Sailing Makeup Bag Set
MAC Hey, Sailor Dead Gone Sailing

 

 

 

 

 

Seperate Product Shots

 

 

 

Sail La Vie Bright mid-tone orange (Satin)

Salute! Neutral peach (Amplified) 

To Catch a Sailor Highly frosted tan (Frost)

Red Racer Bright yellow red (Satin) 

 

 

 

Cut Loose White gold with pearl

Orange Tempera Pale peach (Repromote)

Blessedly Rich Pale coral

Riviera Life Bright tangerine

Send Me Sailing Bright yellow red

 

 

Throw Me a Line Bright true red

Saunter Pale nude beige

Shore Leave Light vibrant coral

 

Sea Mist Peachy nude with multidimensional pearl

Au Rose Poppy coral pink with gold pearl

Abalone See through hot pink with no pearl

 

Crystal Avalanche White with reflects (Veluxe Pearl) (Permanent)

Barefoot Tarnished gold (Veluxe Pearl)

Jaunty Light yellow beige (Frost)

Feeling Fresh Bright green (Frost)

Nautical Navy blue (Satin)

 

 

Verstral White Cream white (Cream) (Repromote)

Gold Knot Brass gold (Frost)

Touch of Red Bright yellow red (Cream)

 

 

Seaside Dirty blush pink with multidimensional sparkle

Man Rays Glowing tan with multidimensional golden shimmer

 

Soft Sand Golden bronze with fine gold pearl

Refined Golden Finely spun golden with soft pearl finish (Permanent)

 

 

Nude on Board Bronzy, yellow tone

Sun Dipped Dirty red tone

( these are the Pro Longwear Bronzing Powders)

 

 

 

 

 

Launch Away!  True peach (Satin)                                                                                                                                                                 Fleet Fast  Pinky, gold coral (satin)

 Crew Off white with pale pink, purple and peach stripes (This is just an overspray! It does not go through the depth of the whole product)

 

 

Zoom Waterfast Lash

Pigment – Old Gold True yellow gold, frost (permanent)

                        Naval Blue Shimmery deep navy blue

Powerpoint Eye Pencils – Emerald Sea Emerald green      

                                                            Blue Stripe Deep navy blue

                                                            Handforged Dirty gold

 

 

I have just ordered the products I wanted from this line so a post with reviews and swatches will be up as soon as i get my order in

 

These products are available at some department stores, free standing Mac and Mac Pro stores and of course online.