The Indian state of Himachal Pradesh has launched the ‘School Sanitation Reward’ Scheme, under which, Government Primary and Middle Schools would get Block and District level prizes.

First cash prize would be of Rs 50,000 [US$ 1,100] at District level along-with a commendation certificate and momento at both Primary and Middle level while two prizes would be given at block level. First cash prize would be Rs 20,000 rupees [US$ 430] and second prize would be of Rs 10,000 [US$ 215] at block level for both school levels. Speaking at launch, Rural Development and Panchayati Raj Minister Jai Ram Thakur said that this Rs 62 lakh [US$ 134,000] scheme was initiated to create competitiveness and awareness about sanitation amongst school children.

Mr. Thakur said Himachal Pradesh was one of few states where over 90 per cent achievement had been made in individual household latrines. He said the Total Sanitation Campaign (TSC), launched from District Sirmaur in the year 1999-2000 was now being implemented in all the 12 districts of the State. Mr Thakur said total plan expenditure of TSC is Rs 149.62 crore [US$ 32.4 million] of which Central Government’s share is Rs. 99.48 crore [US$ 21.5 million] , the State share is Rs 37.70 crore [US$ 8.15 million] while the beneficiary share is Rs 12.43 crore [US$ 2.7 million].

Rs 35.23 crore [US$ 7.6 million] had been spent till 30th November 2009 under TSC, he added.

He said the Central Government had fixed the target of achieving Total Sanitation by the year 2012 but the State Government had made it 2010 to declare Himachal Pradesh a Nirmal State. Two new schemes namely ‘Maharishi Balmiki Sampuran Swatchhta Yojna’ and ‘Mahila Mandal Protsahan Yojna’ launched in the year 2008, had geared up the sanitation programme in the hill state. The Rural Development Minister said the School Sanitation Reward Scheme would be implemented by the Rural Development Department and Education Department while the Water and Sanitation Program (WSP South Asia) would provide the support. He said State had made steady progress during last few years in sanitation as there was nil Niramal Gram Purskar in 2005 and 22 panchayats had got it in 2006-07 and this figure rose to 245 in the year 2007-08 while it reached to 267 in the year 2008-09. Principal Secretary, Education P.C. Dhiman said about 70 percent Government Schools have toilet facilities.

Read full details of the “Reward Scheme for the Cleanest Primary and Middle schools in Himachal Pradesh at Block and District Level under the Total Sanitation Campaign”.

Source: UNI / WebIndia123.com, 03 Dec 2009 / Govt. of Himachal Pradesh, 03 Dec 2009

Abstract

THE GHNP has been described as undoubtedly the most pristine mountain landscape in the Western Himalayas… and perhaps the planet. From the Andes to Nepal and Tibet, to the mountains of Eastern Europe and Western China – the pressures of a growing human population have left the landscape – even so-called “national parks’ – overgrazed, denuded of timber, devoid of wildlife and covered with signs of animals and their shepherds. Ironically, here in India, home to over a billion people, it is still possible to find vast virgin forests and endless fields of wildflowers and ranges of un-named, unclimbed summits. Blue sheep, Himalayan Thar, even bear and snow leopard abound.

At present, the Great Himalayan National Park (GHNP) comprises 750 sq km. It is naturally protected on the northern, eastern, and southern boundaries by areas under permanent snow or by impassable ridges. In addition, there are two wildlife sanctuaries adjacent to the Park: Sainj (90 sq.km.) and Tirthan (61 sq.km.). The total area under the National Park administration is 1,171 sq. km. The western boundary of the Park has historically supported communities that have had economic dependence on the designated area of the Park. Realizing the environmental pressures these villages would exert on the Park’s biodiversity, an area of over 250 square kilometers was set up as buffer zone. This Ecozone contains 160 small villages with a population of about 19,000 people. Almost 90% of the Ecozone is forest habitat which, when properly managed is leading to income generation of the locals without harming the environment. One such initiative is the community based ecotourism being practiced in the GHNP.

Community Based Ecotourism – Lessons 2005-2010

GHNP is also one of the major sites for studying community based ecotourism enterprise in the Western Himalayas. For over five years a private ecotourism company styled Sunshine Himalayan Adventures have been advocating and practicing ecotourism initiative along with a local NGO called BTCA (Society for Biodiversity Tourism & Community advancement). This initiative has increased awareness about the park and specifically ecotourism among ecozone residents themselves or those living near the zone providing balance in educating these important stakeholders realizing that the local community is going to be providing tourism services.

For More Information – My Himachal

I have been living outside Calcutta for sometime and seldom feel the urge to return to the city. An occasional trip or two is fine, but not permanent settlement.

Having said that let me add that living in Uttar Pradesh isn’t special, neither. Once you’ve uprooted yourself, most other places you go to stay in appear the same — distant and impersonal.

True, it takes time to build an attachment and make friends. Three years aren’t long enough for this. But then I don’t feel the urge to drop anchor, at least not here. Neither can I prime myself to go out and seek people I can befriend.

Frankly, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with the city I live in or its people — just that I can’t imagine myself dying in a concrete jungle full of big cars, human beings forever on the go and fast drying greenery. Many years ago, Bhupen Hazarika had sung Aami Ek Jajabor (I am a nomad). Well, I don’t exactly call myself that.

I can’t run my life out of railway platforms and must have a place to call home. I can’t do without the comforts of life — a car, air conditioning in summer, a clean bed to sleep in and a clean loo.

Since a nomad never craves for any of these, I am not one of that tribe. Some years ago, I went to Darjeeling, Kalimpong, Kurseong and Shillong. A quaint little house in any of these hill towns would be wonderful. A cabin by the river at Corbett or Renukaji in Himachal would be a dream come true.

Would that happen, ever? There’s no harm dreaming. But what about the concomitants — medical facilities, children’s education and a steady source of income.

Precisely. Think of them and you’re jolted out of your reverie. Somewhere down the line, the practicalities always take over. I am driven by my expectations from life, also by the requirement to fulfill others’ needs.

I don’t have a business seeing myself in a peaceful mountain existence, at least not now when there are miles to go and commitments to honour, bills to pay.

But this doesn’t discourage me. There will come a time when all will be done. The children would have grown up, loans repaid and no elders to take care of.

The mountains would still be there and hopefully they’d be just as alluring as they are now. Nothing would have blemished Renukaji’s pristine beauty and the view of the Kanchenjungha from the Mall in Darjeeling would remain as spellbinding. Darjeeling’s rumbling meadows wouldn’t have gone bald.

Someday, this small-town man whose journey began from a faraway Orissa village in the woods would find a place to rest, removed from the rush and storm of tinned-air existence.

Till then, this traveler would pitch a tent wherever life takes him and call it home — just waiting for the right port to drop anchor.

Winter Camping activity is a wonderful experience that provides adventure enthusiasts great gratification. Let’s see what you must plan before going on a winter camping tour.

One has to plan a little more cautiously since the temperatures are lower and the weather is unpredictable. If you have enough knowledge of your destination and know exactly how to cope up with the different situations there, you will be as warm in a winter tent camp as you are in summer.

Usually it has seen that winter camping is done on very high altitudes where the temperature becomes very low or some times, even goes up to minus. Keep yourself active throughout your camping adventure.

If you feel frozen feet, or showing initial signs of hypothermia than take a long, brisk walk or jog. It is advised to take the entire group with you. There are some specific hazards unique to winter camping that includes hypothermia, frostbite, and avalanches.

Winter Camping is the most adventurous way of seeing the nature closely, specially on the higher altitude of Himalayan regions. There are various sites that are idle for winter camping in various parts of Himachal Pradesh, Uttranchal as well as in Jammu and Kashmir.

The camps provide accommodation, catering and a variety of adventure activities like hikes, fishing, nature-tours and rafting. Some of the desired destination for winter camping at Himachal Tourism are Sarchu in Lahaul, Sangla and Kalpa in Kinnaur, and at Kaza in Spiti.

Choose high-technology lightweight modern equipment, nylon tents with aluminum frames along with mummy sleeping bags filled with light-weight synthetic fills such as Polar Guard or Qualify, closed-cell foam pads or self-inflating air mattresses will do.

Keep in mind that your clothing should be perfect and according to the rough whether conditions that occur on the higher altitudes. Store snow boots are idle. Try to go for at least one size bigger boots then to your normal size. The outer covering of the boots should be waterproof by oiled leather or plastic.

While taking up winter camping tour you must take along Knife, Matches, Candle or Fire starter Blocks, Water Purification Tablets or Filter, Map or Compass, Space Blanket, Extra Food, Extra Clothes, First-Aid Kit, Flashlight, etc.

When we think about tourist’s accommodation, what comes to mind are hotels. These have a defined image of multi-storied buildings with a number of rooms. In today’s context, a tourist prefers accommodation in the nature habited and homely atmosphere which is comfortable and shows you the real picture.

Tourists who come from abroad and various regions in India are generally fond of local culture, traditions and home cooked food. Staying with a local family at a tourist place is both economical and informative about local people and their culture.

Home stay accommodation provides local people an opportunity to showcase their customs and culture to the tourists and is a source of earning without any investment. It is also acquaints them with the culture of the visitors.

The historical & culture richness of Himachal Pradesh is indeed unique. The monuments, paintings, ridges, valleys, river and other geographical features are both colorful and varied. The parks, wild life sanctuaries, lakes and abundance of fairs and festivals offer enjoyment and learning in the lab of nature.

Home Stay features:

1) Rural living accommodation with Himachali families.
2) Introducing visitors to the village life.
3) Home cooked local food and marketing of local handicraft and art.
4) Visits to apple orchards, tea gardens organic farms, trekking, camping etc.
5) Himachali traditions, costumes, village culture music, village fairs & Home-Stay

Total number of registered home stays in Himachal Pradesh: 160

Li, would very often describe for me in vivid (sumptuous) detail, the ingredients that went into making his evening meal. I’d salivate at his descriptions making a mental note to have him cook it for me sometime. For the most part his descriptions were rich and detailed. Other times they would be bland, lacking colour and energy as, perhaps had his dinner.  After a point i was able to intuit how his day had been just by listening to the evening menu. I was sometimes wrong, but more often than not, would get an accurate indicator of his mindscape.

My equivalent ( as i recently discovered) is paying attention to colours. The keenness with which i notice (or not) the colours  around me, is telling of my internal world. Now you could argue that i would think that, living as i am, surrounded by visual richness. And you’d be right had i been writing this post four months ago when i first came up. Like anything else i quickly  got used to my surroundings and have found myself  loosing what i call ‘fresh  eyes’  or  the wonder that comes with newness. I am now learning to pay attention to my surroundings and hence myself.

After another afternoon walk a few days ago (it has become somewhat a ritual to soak up the sunshine before the cold clear night comes along) with my camera confirmed this idea. From the pictures i verified how in tune with the world, i was feeling that afternoon…

Just-harvested corn stalk

Drying in the sun

A field of traditional grain

End of Tomato Season

The rusts and yellows of autumn.

So tell me, what are Your indicators?

Shimla: Prof. Prem Kumar Dhumal, Chief Minister Himachal, released the Shimla Declaration on sustainable Himalayan Development, after taking cognizance of recommendations from the four thematic groups, the Himalayan Chief Ministers’ Conclave 2009, has resolved to jointly face the challenge of climate change and sustainable development. The Conclave agreed to Establishment of a Himalayan Sustainable Development Forum; Setting Up State Councils for Climate Change; Catalyzing research for policy action; Payment for ecosystem services; Managing water resources for sustainable development; Challenge of Urbanization; Green Transportation; Dealing with impacts of Climate Change on livelihoods; Decentralised energy security; Managing growth of eco-friendly tourism and pilgrimage; Green Industry and Green Job Creation.

Prof. Prem Kumar Dhumal, Chief Minister, gave a clarion call to all the Himalayan States of the country to come forward to constitute a Himalayan Development Forum to protect their interests by developing an institutional mechanism to jointly try and work out strategies to meet the challenge of climate change. He was delivering his welcome speech on the concluding session of the two-day Himalayan Chief Minister’s Conclave jointly organized by the Department of Science, Technology and Environment and Leadership for Environment and Development – India (LEAD) at Peterhoff, here today.

He said that Community LED Assessment, Awareness, advocacy and Action Programme (CLAP) had been launched in the State to mobilize people at grass root level and associate them in environment protection. He said that three vehicle Paryavaran Chetna Karwan had also been launched for visiting remote corners of the State to mobilize the movement.
Prof. Dhumal said that the state had made it mandatory to all power projects constructed as run of the river and to preserve down stream riverine ecology prescribed release of 15 percent minimum water flow down stream. He said that use of plastic bags had completely been banned in the State besides the State had successfully implemented the Atal Bijli Bachat Yojna providing four CFL bulbs free of cost to every domestic consumer in the State.

Dr. Ramesh Pokharyal “Nishank”, Chief Minister of Uttrakhand, supported the proposal of his counterpart Prof. Prem Kumar Dhumal of constituting a Himalayan Development Forum. He said that Uttrakhand was promoting eco-friendly eco-tourism, ayurved, health tourism etc. He said that different parameters were required to be adopted by Centre to determine the developmental requirements which should not be equated with the other States. He said that the Himalayan States were contributing significantly towards preservation and conservation of Himalayan ecology which was required to be compensated suitably. He said that out of 9000 glaciers in Himalayas 1439 were in Uttrakhand and were releasing about 500 cubic kilometers of fresh water. He said that global warming was melting Himalayan glaciers speedily threatening the flora and fauna of the Himalayas. He underlined the need for change in modern life style of the people, reduce emission of green house gases and increase green cover to compensate the damages. He said that Uttrakhand had 65 percent of its area under forest cover which was being affected with the global warming besides many of the rare herbs were also getting extinct.

Dr. Nishank said that the habitants of Himalayan States needed to be provided additional opportunities in development activities so that their energy was channelized for constructive activities while all basic amenities were available to their families back home. He said that Himalayan States had limited resources at their disposal and needed to be provided economic incentives to keep pace with the developing world. He hoped that the Himalayan Chief Minister’s Conclave would achieve the objective of its constitution by active involvement of all environment conscious people.

Jairam Ramesh, Union Minister of State for Environment and Forests, said that the Government of India was considering release of Green Dividends/Bonus to the Himalayan States from next financial year as a compensatory measure for protecting the Himalayan ecology. He said that Finance Commission and Planning Commission of India had also been approached to approve the move. He said that the Union Government was also considering taking the snow covered areas above 4000 mtrs. out of the definition of forest land which would benefit all the 12 Himalayan States of the country having population of about 6 crores and covering 15 percent of the geographical area of the country.

Union Minister said that the Himalayan eco-system was important for the nation and should not be overlooked. He said that the Union Ministry was clearing all projects after getting satisfied with the full environment assessment report. He said that Governance for sustaining the Himalayan Eco-system (G-SHE) would be the base for implementation of the Himalayan eco-system. He said that NGOs and civil societies had to be involved actively for preservation of the environment. He advised the Forum to associate north-eastern States also with it so that its area of operation was expanded to entire Himalayan region in the country. He assured the Forum that all out effort would be made at his level to implement the Shimla Declaration in right perspective.

Mian Altaf Ahmed, Minister for Environment and Forests, Jammu and Kashmir, apprised the Conclave of the environment protection endeavours in his State. He expressed concern over the climate change which was adversely affecting the horticulture in Jammu and Kashmir.

J.P.Nadda, Forest, Science and Technology Minister, proposed vote of thank and hoped that the outcome of the conclave would go a long way in furthering the outcome of the Conclave.

Dr. Sunita Narayanan, Director, Centre for Science and Environment, New Delhi and an international environmentalist said that environment was a new global science which needed to be taught to every individual. She said that forests of Himalayas were the limbs for the rest of the country which had to be preserved and conserved for the benefit of all living beings. She said that the environment had emerged the global political issue which needed to be taken in right spirit for the benefit of all.

Gajanand Pathmanathan, World Bank representatives from Washington DC, deliberated upon the South Asia Region – Sustainable Development Operations on Climate Change in the Himalayas: Opportunities for Trans-boundary Cooperation for Sustainable Development besides various environmental activities being undertaken by the World Bank.

Smt. Sarojini Ganju Thakur, Additional Chief Secretary, also welcomed the participants and thanked them all for attending the same and draw attention of the world towards global warming and climate change and how to protect the environment in the Indian Himalayas through a presentation on the occasion.

From NVO News

Great Himalayan National Park is located in the upper ranges of Himalaya. It is also known as Jawahar Lal Nehru National Park. There are three prime attractions at Great Himalayan National Park. First is Raktisar where River Sainj originates; second is Hanskund that is the origin point of the river Tirthan, and Sirikhand Mahadev, a lake on the southern border of the park.

Great Himalayan National Park has a mix vegetation of Ban Oak Forest, Moist Deodar Forest, Western Mixed Coniferous Forest, Moist Temperate Deciduous Forest, Himalayan Alpine Pastures, and Rhododendron Scrub Forest. Other vegetations in this park are oak, blue pine, cedar, deodar, bamboo Arundaria spathiflora, Iris, Frittilaria, Gagea, Primula, and Taxus Baccata.

The awesome fauna of the national park has good wild population, especially of avifauna. Major wildlife species found in the park are Snow Leopard, musk Deer, Blue Sheep, Ibex, Wolf, Leopard, Rhesus macaque, common langur (Presbytis entellus), Himalayan black bear, goral, muntjac, and serow.

Nearby place to visit is Kullu which is a beautiful valley that exists amidst the Himalayas in Himachal Pradesh. This place is quiet famous for its annual Dussehra festival, handicrafts, and ancient temples. Climate of this national park is hotter during the summers and more rain during the monsoon. The climate witnesses less snowfall during the winters.

well, this is not a post. this is a question to know your views.

now a days, we are witnessing a lot of drama and hoopla over global warming. the glaciers are melting at a fast rate and the developed countries are asking india, china and other developing countries to minimise their per capita carbon emission.

i know one fact about this. that per capita carbon emission of india is 1.1 tonnes.

the above fact is true but i don’t know anything apart from this.

jokes apart. our prime minister mr. Manmohan Singh is going to Copenhagen for the climate summit, he is asking the chief ministers of the himalayan states to form a committee to check the status of global warming. himachal pradesh has declared that it will be carbon neutral state by 2020.

they all are doing good work. hats off to them.

but what are we doing?

going for cycling on Sundays and in evenings for spreading a message to stop global warming. what a fuck? i know that i am just ruining the effect of this post by using this somewhat ’slang’ phrase. but i can’t help it. because this is the only thing that these activists and participants deserves. if they are so much into it and really wants to prevent this earth from global warming, why don’t they use cycles instead of cars and bikes on normal days of their lives.

leaving apart the celebrities and ministers, we , the common people can easily switch over to bicycles or public transports. but do we really mean what we do? the answer is a big NO. come on yaar!!! we are just common people,,, no one look at us whether we go by car, by bus or by cycles. don’t confuse yourself that whenever anybody is praising your car, he is praising you. no he is just praising your car.

this is a high time…. we should stop all these ‘dhakoslas’ and really start the job.

don’t think that you are doing your part by planting a tree. stop thinking like that. if you’ll continue thinking like that, at the end, you’ll find yourself fooled by the mother nature. she is giving you chace after chance.  grab this opportunity.

go green in each and every way! stop global warming!   

what say?

keep reading!!

Billing is a beautiful place situated in Himachal Pradesh and Billing is considered one of the best gliding sites in the world. Billing is an ideal place for hang-gliding and paragliding. Adventure sports lovers land to Billing, from all over the world, mainly between September to November, which is the best time to enjoy.

The temple of Baijnath is the main attraction for most of the visitors from all over the world. The beautiful town of Bir which is 14 kms away from Baijnath temple is famous for an annual fair, which is related to Holi festival. Famous for hang-gliding, Billing also offers another adventure sport, that is Para Sailing.

Since most people come to Billing for adventure sports, there are some things people should keep in mind before coming to Billing. If you ever plan to try any adventure sports in this amazing place, you might want to check with your doctor if you are physically fit for the sports.

While you are trying out new adventure sports, make sure you follow all the instructions as advised by the instructor. Tourists can easily get to Billing or Bir by bus.

You can either take a bus from delhi or from any other major town in Himachal Pradesh. One can get to Billing by hired cabs or jeeps too. Comfortable accommodation is available for the tourists.

Wonderland Himachal hereby proudly introduce you with the very first edition of HOPE (Himachal on Phone).We are working on a door-to-door survey of Himachal’s each commercial establishment as well as Industrial sector, either it is your next door Urban area or a distant tribal-ends of the State.

We aim at providing information on Himachal Pradesh covering all 12 districts with a vast and fresh data of every commercial and industrial sector. Beside this, it has many user friendly features which will help you in your day to day life as following:
 Geographical Surveys
 Eco-sense
 Exploring
 Rich cultural heritage
 Contacts of Embassies/high commissions/government help lines/offices.
 Exploring Himachal
 Data-based surveys.
Hope will surely be of great aid to any person with any interest.
We humbly invite everybody to help us so that we all together present a remarkable gift to our motherland, Himachal Pradesh.

Mashobra is Himachal Pradesh’s beautiful retreat hideout for centuries. Mashobra is one of the two presidential retreats in the country. This small hill station is the most high profile hill stations in Himachal yet it is lesser known to the normal tourist crowd. Mashobra is filled with beautiful dense coniferous forest which gets covered in snow during winter seasons. A trip to Mashobra will give not only peace of mind but also gives an insight on Himachal Pradesh’s culture and traditions. There are several temples to visit in Mashobra. Imperial mansions like Wildflower Hall which was the residence of Lord Kitchener and Lord Ripon during the British era is another attraction. Today this mansion is part of Oberoi Properties. Mishobra is part of Shimla Reserve Forest sanctuary. The hill station is rich with flora and fauna. Mashobra is the best choice for spending a hustle free peaceful vacation. Mashobra is accessible by air and rail the nearest airport and Railway station is in Shimla which is just 10 km away from the hill station. There are also several hotels and resorts in Mashobra for tourists to have a memorable vacation.

Look closely at the photograph below and you’ll probably understand why this post has been titled the way it has. Can you see a horizontal line on the rock face a little below the  centre of the photograph?

Do you see it...?

That’s how I noticed it for the first time and didn’t give it another thought. We stopped an hour later for a mandatory stretch-legs-unbend-back-wriggle-the-shoulders break (so essential on road trips done on a bike) when I paid the Line (as I’d begun calling it in my head) a little more attention. It stayed at roughly the same height only moving higher or lower to over come some geographical feature that wouldn’t let it pass straight through, hugging the side of the mountain all the way up the valley as far as I could see, looking determined (almost grimly in places) to go somewhere. I was curious now and so asked about it… and was told that in the days before the Road (as we know it) this was on what the inhabitants of Mayar commuted.

Wood to go around the rock and stone steps cut into it to climb up (if you survive the trek so far!)

Now, you might want to look at that photograph again. Go on. I know I did. I whipped around and incredulously squawked, “THAT was their Road?!!!” I stared at it for a long time, squinting my eyes in the bright sunlight and pushing the helmet that weighed down on my forehead waiting. Waiting for it to engage me in conversation, to tell me stories that I was itching to know and unwilling to believe. It’s true, those wooden planks stuck into the hillside was their only link in and out of the valley for Years.

If you know me then you’ll know that I refuse to believe anything I’m told and so decided to see for myself if it continued all the way into the valley. It sure did. Right up to each village on the bank with little bridges made with planks of wood swinging over the powerful river below to cross over to the ones on the opposite bank. I’m still in awe.

I was told we were going to a remote valley before we set off but just what that meant hadn’t sunk in till I saw the path literally cut into the side of the mountain. Let me backtrack a little and explain to you exactly where I was – the Mayar Nullah is a remote valley in the heart of Lahaul. Heavy snowfall in the winter isolates it for six months every year. A tarred road has made an appearance only recently and was being constructed even as we rode deep into the valley. A kutcha path covered in stones is has been in use for the few vehicles that ply the road. Before that is was the path you see in the photograph. Telephones are objects that belong to the near future and internet connections are unheard off. Completely off the tourist map, this Nullah is full of people who’ve lived here for generations. Like the Dzo’s they are of mixed origin half Tibetan and half Indian. They now till the (very fertile) land for potatoes, peas, and costus in the summer and sun themselves, eat rice and meat, knit and drink Lahauli wine in the winter.

Shy Dzo's:Half yak, half bull most of these creature's are sooper shy. We switched off the engine and rolled (i thought) quietly past them but even that was enough to startle them enough to contemplate sliding down the mountain side a few hundred metres to the river below.

B, said this looked straight out of the Lord Of the Rings. Any LOTR fans out there concur with that statement? (I plan on reading it before the year is out! Promise.)

This one is titled: Drama

I’m going to write about the Road trip to Lahaul in disjointed bits because that’s how my memory has stacked it away. Not a beautiful continuous narrative of snowy peaks and mountain covered in autumnal colours (though there was lots of that as well. My very first Autumn!) but images like picture postcards combined with conversations both internal and external. I was almost disbelieving of what I was actually experiencing initially, feeling disconnected under the weight of  mental baggage. Are journeys like this for you too – coloured by lots of memories/opinions/feelings superimposed on the actual surroundings?

What makes the story interesting is when you see the lens/s through which you’ve experienced it and then choose with how much honesty you tell the tale. ‘Tis an experiment…

(This last photograph is courtesy Ben).

That was Purkhu the herb collector, describing a trek.  I’ve borrowed from him, because it sums up beautifully what going to Lahaul felt like – “going to the top and then further up.”I’ve come back with a nose the colour of a plum and peeling, a bag full of juniper berries and legs tired and aching from being on a bike all of today and most of the last three days.

A deeper, slightly more considered thought follows immediately on the heels of the first – Lahaul was splendid and nothing like I imagined. I did not suffer from altitude sickness, I did manage to bravely peek over some of the inclines that led steeply into the Chandra river. I fell in love with the shy retiring Dzo’s (a cross between a Bull and Yak) and marvelled at the starkness of the terrain and how it has shaped the people who live there.

I’ve been on some trips when it felt like nothing inside of me moved. I‘d come back and slip right into my ‘old’ life almost as if I had never been away. Other trips shake my world. This one was one of them – not a shake-the-ground-beneath-her-feet kind of shake that leaves you feeling disoriented and rattled. This was a gentle stripping away, an unloading perhaps, of the baggage I took with me, the kind that clings to you and makes everything look dull and weary (even jagged peaks and snowy mountain passes).

I’ve come back feeling light and refreshed – and it makes me want to round up all my favourite people and beam at them. Just beam…

For now, i’m going to plunge my wrinkled nose into a tub of aloe vera.

She was watching eagerly as Jaisingh helped the last of the members hop across to the other bank of the angry river. Did I notice a sense of despair in those innocent eyes?

I realised all of a sudden, that the entire group of 30 Men (and women), who had by now crossed over already, were watching her with equal eagerness. For a moment, the sound of the roaring waters ceased to exist as my mind went numb with helplessness!

The lady in question was Sherry, our four legged 9th Member. She had joined the team 2 days back and had walked 25 Kms of fairly difficult terrain to be there that afternoon. This was the first tempestuous river we were crossing, aiding each other. But there was little we could do to help that little black bitch who was watching the turbulent waters, somewhere lost in that deafening roar.

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“Nalgan Pass”- The name stood out while I was carefully marking out the position of “Rupin Pass” on the Google Earth referring to the British Army Map(1937) of Garhwaal Himalayas. The name sounded a bit odd but was clearly mentioned, just a few kilometers east of what is known as the “Rupin Pass”, on the same extended ridge. It definitely looked and sounded interesting, in fact, strangely mystical.

Months later the same name popped up in a thread at Indiamike.com. Some adventurous westerner wished to travel across this “less travelled” pass and was seeking information about some capable guides. The allure to see this mystical valley strengthened ever more.

The twist to the tale was added with another name, “Lamkhaga” –that had been playing upon the mind for quite sometime, ever since someone from GMVN bunglow in Harsil mentioned it several years back. During those long discussions around the campfire with the local staff, I was taught the existence of the Lamkhaga and Chhotkhaga Passes that connect the Bhagirathi Valley and the Kinnaur Valley of Himachal Pradesh. They did narrate this interesting aside, how Lamkhaga is a long but relatively easier route and the Chhotkhaga- the shorter but relatively difficult one.

Having romanced both names for long, it occurred to me at once that both these interesting objectives could be attempted in one go! When I posted the thread for the “Twin Passes-Triple Valley Trek” on the Internet, I had little idea of the ultimate form it was going to take. By the time it ended, I was marvelling yet again at the wondrous ways in which the Grand Mountain enriches the experience of living; the myriad manners He always chose to teach new lessons.

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It was a “first” for me in many respects. It was the first time I was going to walk 150 Kms and the first time I was crossing two passes in a sequence. Never earlier had I led a team of ten and that too with a mix of genders. We were to assist our navigation with GPS(Nalgan Pass has an unfrequented and sparsely documented route) and it was the first time I was ever to trek in the valleys and passes of Himachal Pradesh.

With so many firsts, the natural starting point of preparation was the team itself. The challenge was to create a team that’s closely-knit and strongly aligned to the common purpose, within the constraints of time and resources. The variety in the physical and mental faculties of the members must be the least. We could not afford a failure that would cause an individual to pull down the team performance or compromise the objective.

It took me two rounds of “Thread Launching” in both Indiamike and Orkut community forums to get the team built at all. The team finally came together by March.. and God! What a team! It’s indeed rare to have the opportunity of being in the midst of such an unique group of individuals.

Background, education, location, profession, age and gender- in every possible way the team represented diversity!

Nalgan Pass- A Caravan Through Wilderness

Reaching Netwar almost at midnight, we were feeling lost for the moment when we noticed a vehicle parked in the middle of the now-closed-market. Jaisingh and Bisht-The driver were inside the jeep waiting for us to escort us till the Forest Guest House. The welcome sight of the Forest Guest House finally loomed into view at 2315 hrs. The support team had been waiting for us there the entire evening. Tents had been pitched and the dinner table had been laid in the FRH compound out in the open.

“Campsite pahunch gaye hum! Bahut sundar campsite hai. Seedha aate raho, thoda hi door hai.”

We had covered 13 Kilometers in reasonable time, none of the members were hurt in any way and our spirits were high! All in all a fine performance for the starting day! The rocks in the middle of the riverbed served well as the lounging area.

We all knew, it was a crucial day for us when we shall turn off the beaten track of Rupin Pass and head into the scantly explored trails of Nargani Valley. We had to make crucial choices of routes and bridges so that we would be in a position to attempt the pass two days later.

“How much money was there?” I asked

“About twenty thousand odd” He replied.

I glanced in Vinod’s direction, probably with a look of unspoken request.

“Koi baat nahin Sir, main dekhta hoon abhi. Kitchen set ho jaane dijiye, phir main dekhta hoon. Mil jana chahiye”- He assured me.

First, there was this gushing torrent of a waterfall on the Nargani river that made the river tumble down a hundred meters in easy but sure steps.

A few hundred meters ahead we reached the last major confluence- this time a tributary coming in from the true left. A group of herdsmen were smoking hookah under a Odar known as Dugdi Odar. Dugdi – being a rough translation for the “Junction of Two Rivers”. It was reassuring to reconfirm the route yet again. Here again members tried their skills at smoking the hookah of the shepherds, this time without any accidents. .

I looked below towards where my fellow team members were slowly progressing towards where I stood. Then I spotted Rachit, Hardik and Jaisingh.

“That twisted ankle must be paining awfully” I thought, for where they were, there was no way one could pitch a camp stool, let alone a tent!!

“Yeah, even the grass below has frost on it” replied Pramod. It was our first brush with freezing cold for the season. Having spent the earlier days on the valley floor, we had crossed the limits of high altitude for the first time and it was going to be like that for several more days.