Antarctica is closing; and with that all eyes are on Himalaya where two expeditions hope to make history any time now.

Also Aconcagua has more or less folded; following a season deadlier than usual but not without a number of triumphs. Over in Europe, Swiss Ueli Steck broke another classic North face speed record – on Matterhorn in 1 hour 56 minutes from bottom top.

A very hard row around Antarctica has kicked off and there’s also a number of interesting news from Space.

Makalu Some explorers worry little about failing tech; not so Simone Moro. “This is really a disaster, causing big damage our sponsors,” he fumed before at last, the backup modem arrived. Reason for the holdup according to Simone – porters got stuck (read: drunk) for 6 days in Sidua! As for the climb – a two-day trip to Makalu La was on this weekend before the summit push.

Broad Peak They hoped to buy some gas from a military camp. 5-ft snow made the estimated 3-hour trip longer than expected and on arrival the mil camp at Concordia’s glacier junction turned out empty, sending the climbers back to BC empty-handed for another 7 hours. The men shot some footage, directed by Robert – now Robert Vader – as part of their new sci-fi series ‘StarWspin’. Don Bowie also offered a detailed description of why Karakoram winter climbing is worse than Minnesota.

New routes, variations and record speed ascents After soloing the Colton-Macintyre route on the North face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 21 minutes on December 28th, Swiss Ueli Steck broke another classic North face speed record January 13th – on Matterhorn. Ueli climbed the Schmidt route (TD/ED, 1100m) in 1 hour 56 minutes from bottom to summit. The Huber Brothers, teaming up with Stefan Siegrist, bagged two new routes at Antartica’s Queen Maud Land. Alex, Thomas and Stephan completed the first climb on Ulvetanna’s West buttress – Sound of silence (6c, A2, 850m, 60º); and the first route opened on Holtanna’s West face, Eiszei (6b, A4, 750m). Also on Holtanna, the team achieved the first free-climbing ascent of Skywalk (6a, 450m), on the peak’s North buttress. From Patagonia, Camilo López and Anna Pfaff report a new variation on Aguja Guillomet. Fitz Roy is next.

The spirit of it all: the Fiend, the Pole, and top ten reasons why high-altitude climbers climb A faded expedition t-shirt from the American 1999 Everest/K2 expedition reminds of a time when climbing was more difficult, but less serious. Read the back print and more from a bygone time.

Popular Re-run & ExWeb correction: ECUADORIAN Santiago Quintero Folks in South America are very proud of their emerging mountaineers. When ExWeb wrote that Santiago Quintero has set off on a crossing of 35 Andes summits in preps for K2 in May; a large number of emails notified us that he is from Ecuador – not Brazil. All the hoopla called for a re-run of an interview ExWeb made with the mountaineer last spring.

Aconcagua 2008/09 Season’s end Chronicle ExWeb’s contributor, Brazilian writer and chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto Peron compiled a season’s end report from Aconcagua – a favorite pre-Everest destination. It’s sobering reading; but not without highlights.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
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Posted on December 30, 2008

ExplorersWeb 2008 Year in Review Special:

Everest, Tibet and China.

Influence of politics was so massive on mountaineering this year we had to lift Everest out of the regular Year in Review. Yet the events were so remarkable they should not fall into oblivion. Here thus an ExWeb 2008 YIR second edition, with focus Everest, Tibet and China. Regural WIR will resume next Sunday.

We have ommited most names to protect climbers from reprisals. This story is further not about individuals but about issues affecting us all.

Olympic promises

In order to get the Olympic Games, China had promised to fullfill certain conditions: one was unrestricted access for media. Reporters would be allowed to travel freely and interview whom they wished and without state regulated interpreters.

As for climbing, rumors that Mt. Everest would be closed during the Olympic torch were consistently denounced by CMA & CTMA. “China will not limit the number of expeditions in 2008,” Chinese officials said as late as September 4, 2007.

“They [China] have once again assured us that there will be no limitations on Everest, only stricter criteria to fulfill,” confirmed a CTMA spokesman in Nepal on October 3, 2007. “Also, they have once again assured us that there will be no restriction to climbing during the summit push of the Olympic flame,” Tshering said.

On March 7, 2008, a soft loan was issued by China to Nepal of $120 million. Three days later, a remarkable chain of events unfolded, here in chronological order:

March 10

Each year on the so called Tibetan Uprising Day (March 10), Tibetans walk to commemorate the 1959 Tibetan national uprising against China. Also this year, monks from various monasteries began to peacefully march in Lhasa on that date. That same day, in spite of expeditions complying with Chinese rules of early applications and political screenings; an official notice was sent out to climbers stating that Everest north side would be closed until May 10.

The Lhasa march was seconded in other parts of the world – such as in Nepal, by Tibetan refugees protesting outside the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu. This year, Chinese embassy officials were allowed to direct Nepalese soldiers handling the Tibetan demonstrators and to spit on an American who took photos.

Rumor was that China attempted to convince Nepalese authorities to close also the south side of Everest until May 10. Nepal said it had denied the request.

March 11

March 11, Chinese officials told AFP that the ban on Everest North side climbing was a “misunderstanding.” Meanwhile, expedition leaders reported they were threatened with lifetime climbing bans if they gave out reports.

ExWeb received requests to remove from its website the official CTMA note and right after it was published; the week-in-review (illustrated by the notice) vanished mysteriously from ExWeb’s publisher.

Simultaneously in Lhasa, the Ganden monastery was surrounded by armed paramilitary police. Layers of soldiers and up to 2000 police were stationed around the Sera and Drepung monasteries. Monks were trapped with dwindling food supplies. 

March 12 and 13

In spite of denials made only two days earlier; on March 12, Nepalese Tourism Minister Prithvi Subba Gurung announced that also the south side of Everest would be closed for climbing during the torch relay.

Gurung said the move had been taken in response to a request from China, “this is to prevent some people who could infiltrate and cause trouble during the time when they take the torch to the top.”

The next day, on March 13, a media blackout was imposed on Lhasa. No pictures came out from the Tibetan capital, and no foreign journalists were allowed. Reporters trying to phone monasteries received replies such as, “the monks are all in their rooms.”

Tibetan and foreign demonstrators in India, resisting arrest by sitting or laying down, were hauled away into police buses.

March 14

About 80 dead, four monks torching themselves, a monastery badly damaged, and Chinese buildings set ablaze were reported from Lhasa on March 14. “There could be several hundred tanks and they were shooting into the crowds,” a private witness told RFA’s Tibetan service. 

An ExplorersWeb correspondent and local tourists in Lhasa reported a war-zone with tanks/armoured vehicles driving around in the streets, shops on fire, total curfew, and far worse violence than news reports were stating.

March 16

Sunday, March 16, China blamed Dalai Lama and Tibetans for the Lhasa killings and declared a “People’s War” on protesters inside and outside of Tibet, including the Dalai Lama. A live video showed scores of Chinese police searching door to door in Lhasa.

Journalists were banned from the city; and according to an US TV report – in spite of accredited journalist’s reports always being screened by Chinese officials – foreign media such as CNN in mainland China was forbidden to even mention Tibet.

March 17-23

In the following week, Chinese army mobilized in western China. Journalists were banned, Tibetans were jailed and international internet was infiltrated by Chinese cadres.

The last foreign journalist was forced out of Lhasa; and foreign press was prevented from traveling in certain mainland China areas. Any mention of Tibet was suspiciously missing from Google News China, while Yahoo China pasted a “most wanted” poster of Tibetans across its homepage. 

A unique online war broke out outside of the censored country. Youtube videos, blog postings and commentaries claimed to have been mady by ‘western’ posters were frequently busted for being made by Chinese sources.

FBI investigated attacks on Save Darfur domains; US State Department reported that such attacks by Chinese authorities had been ongoing for years. An increasing amount of MountEverest.net’s stories were re-tagged and stopped showing up in internet searches.

ExWeb specials: focus Chinese leadership

In the following days, thousands of paramilitary police and troops blanketed a huge swath of western China. Witnesses reported long convoys heading for Lhasa, with markings and registration plates of vehicles removed. Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma were closed. No permits, except for Dhaulagiri & Ama Dablam, were issued.

Chinese denials of Tibetan deaths were increasingly disproved by pictures arriving with tourists. Former President of Czech Republic Vaclav Havel said that the attempt to seal off Tibet from the rest of the world was a most dangerous situation and that the “harmony” trumpeted by China is known as “the peace of the graveyard.”

An increasing number heads of states decided to meet with the Dalai Lama whom the by Hu Jintao’s appointed Chief of Tibet Zhang Qingli called “a wolf wrapped in a rabbit, a monster with a human face and animal’s heart.” Qingli further declared “a fierce blood- and-fire battle with the Dali clique, a life-and-death battle between us and the enemy.”

ExplorersWeb kicked off an investigative series about China’s and Tibet’s current leadership.

OTC: “the Olympics should not be politicized”

The International Olympic Committee parroted China’s slogan that the Olympics should not be politicized. Reporters Without Borders, a press freedom organization, published excerpts from a 26-page IOC memo on the Olympic torch relay marked “confidential.” The memo showed that IOC worked closely with the Chinese in regards to “what to tell the press.”

The governor of Tibet told reporters in Beijing that anyone attempting to disrupt the torch’s journey on his watch “would be dealt with severely.”

In statements to media, some Olympic athletes said their only goal was to win a gold medal; while a few made statements for human rights.

Early April, pre-elections in Nepal

In an April 10 Nepal elections special, ExWeb ran an investigative story about a tiny party (3%) that joined the Nepal’s government not by election but by force, and with a leader who recently had been on Interpol’s most wanted list; the Maoists.

ExWeb had covered the rebels for years. After breaking people’s legs, burying some alive, killing others in front of their family or forcing family members to hurt each other while the entire village watched, the big question was: what connections with China did Maoist leader Prachanda have, and how big was his power?

ExWeb found that in spite of UN and promises made, Prachanda still had an army; and according to Red Star (the Maoist own website) Prachanda was member of RIM in Chicago founded by infamous Robert Avakian with members such as the “Shining Path” of Peru and the self-proclaimed objective of “world wide revolution by force.”

On December 8 in 2007, Prachanda had also met with the chairman of giant SMG (Shanghai Wenching Media Group), whose representatives had traveled to meet with the tiny Maoist party in the jungle of southern Nepal. SMG is part of SMEG – one of the largest media conglomerates in China.

April

By March 30, climbers started to receive preliminary climbing permits for Everest south side (Nepal) including a 13 point document with written instructions, issued by the Nepal Government.

Among the regulations; no anti-China props “that may harm bilateral relationship between Nepal and China,” electronics were to be stored with police in BC until May 10, and news about expeditions were to be screened by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation before allowed to be sent out.

Meanwhile, an eerie silence blanketed the blacked-out Lhasa. Horror stories trickled out as journalists, western officials and foreign diplomats in Tibet were denied unsupervised access. At the Jokhang temple about 30 terrified young monks unexpectedly surrounded a group of guided journalists and started shouting, “they are tricking you, they are telling lies, don’t believe them.”

A woman reported that Tibetans were arrested and secretly shot outside town.

April 10: Maoists win Nepal election

While at first established parties were reported to take the lead; the Maoists shocked by a landslide victory in Nepal’s elections. International observers, including former US President Jimmy Carter, deemed the Nepal election “free and fair.” Carter also stated that it’s wrong of US to still consider the Maoists terrorists.

The centre for Tibetan refugees in Kathmandu (where some of the Nangpa La victims were housed in 2006) was closed. Prachanda said that he would not allow the Dalai Lama office to reopen and that the Maoists regard Tibet as inseparable part of China.

Climbers told ExWeb that Kathmandu looked like a ghost town on April 10 and seemed not in very a festive mood on the Nepalese New Year a few days later. “This climate of apprehension is due to the pressure put by the Maoists on Nepal’s people,” analyzed one climber – a long time visitor to the country.

“The Maoists threatened to take retaliation against the people in case they lost the elections. Fear spread among the population and thus the Maoist party has obtained a majority of votes in the polls,” reported another.

April 10-20

Shortly after the election, Liaison Officers, selected to search and monitor electronic equipment and enforce the communications ban arrived in Everest south side BC. An army major was put in charge of “security” and snipers were positioned in high camps; ordered to sharp-shoot protesters. Camps were searched, laptops, sat-phones and cameras were confiscated, leaving the climbers with just radios to communicate among themselves – and their conversations were to be eavesdropped.

Following a big meeting between expedition leaders and authorities, climbers reported they had been told: “…we shall not mention the words “Tibet” or “Free Tibet” – we can’t speak about the subject, neither can we say anything which could sound offensive towards China. It is also forbidden to wear T- shirts or to show any symbol referring to China or Tibet while in the area.”

Even trekkers were to be prevented to bring their cameras and phones beyond Gorak Shep. Handwritten notes that friends could post from Namche were to first be read by officials in BC. Maoist checkpoints were reported enroute to BC and some trekkers said they were still forced to pay “revolutionary fees.”

Nepalese effectively prohibited anyone flying towards Everest BC and surrounding mountains. Two climbers who arrived in Manaslu base camp on foot reported, “we didn’t fly because foreigners are not allowed to fly, by a new law of the Nepal aviation authority in relation with the unstable situation in Tibet. Or so we have been told.”

Climbers without borders

ExplorersWeb’s “Climbers Without Borders” hotline allowed climbers, their relatives and friends to report anonymously from the mountain. Pictures arrived of Chinese security guards and plain clothes Chinese police on the Nepal side of Everest and a helicopter carrying Chinese officials inspecting Everest BC.

A banner sealed off the Lhotse wall and a small police post guarded camp 2, with a soldier doing the rounds each day with a sniper rifle. Climbers were forced to pay thousands of dollars to feed the soldiers on the mountain. “It is insane. It is extortion to pay for your own persecutors,” one expedition leader said. Radio restrictions were enforced between BC and high camps. “The Army alleges security reasons we can’t really understand,” commented an Italian mountaineer.

A young, unguided American climber was kicked off Everest after fellow climbers tipped off the police that he had a Tibetan banner in his backpack. A BBC reporter was expelled from BC. The Nepalese authorities imposed a complete communication ban on journalists from the south side base camp and upwards. Climbers were not allowed to hold even informal chats with media; if any mountaineer talked to the BBC, he or she would be expelled. 

Early May, Everest had become an army base on both sides as the torch made its way to the summit. Foreign military jets were seen flying over the summit. Checkpoints in the Khumbu searched climbers’ luggage for communications equipment, cameras, and flags. Helicopters were flying between Katmandu and base camp bringing more army troops, supplies and food. “Base camp is becoming an army camp rather than a climbing base,” mountaineers reported.

Protests and attacks

Following a story about suspected mass executions in Lhasa, ExplorersWeb was attacked by batches of vicious spam, threatening emails, faked orders at the HumanEdgeTech online store and messages notifying that all ExWeb’s domains were to be registered in China, Taiwan and Hong Kong.

The French mountaineering organization GHM (original Piolet d’Or) issued a protest, asking international mountaineers, mountaineering authorities, alpine clubs, trade associations and UIAGM to declare themselves officially against the torch event.

UIAA asked CMA to take their flag no higher than base camp on the Tibetan side, so it would face the same restrictions as the climbers on the south side: “The UIAA, which stands for the freedom of access to all mountains, has advised the CMA that it cannot allow its flag to fly over Everest, when the UIAA’s very constituents, the international climbing community, find themselves barred or greatly restricted in their access to the mountain,” stated UIAA’s President Mike Mortimer.

Everest north side Olympic torch ascent

In Beijing, international journalists selected to cover the Olympic torch Everest ascent, were told to go straight to Everest via Lhasa in three days. Altitude sick and left to interview only Chinese-conditioned Tibetans; the correspondents were prevented from reporting on anything other than the flame and were told that no media would be allowed when the torch left BC.

None of the Chinese torch climbers were among the country’s top high altitude mountaineers, and some in the torch team had already been involved in at least one 8000+ summit controversy.

Chinese expedition leader Wang Yongfeng (a representative of the Chinese Mountaineering Association in Beijing) had only 3, 8000+ summits (Everest and Cho Oyu, all with oxygen support). In 2005 he skied one degree to the South Pole and claimed a full trip although he only did one tenth of the required distance.

On May 5, the Chinese stated that 3 climbers had topped out Everest from the north side. Everest south side mountaineers watching the attempt live from the summit of Kalapattar (Nepal) said the team had overcome the Second Step, but then a storm forced them down.

The 2008 “live” coverage turned out “almost live” and summit images only showed clouds, flags and various climbers. In light of the previous controversies, and 4 different videos shot by China on the summit already in 2007, suspicion was raised about the authenticity of the summit climb.

08/08/08

“The moment I saw the torch lit on top of Mount Everest I felt very hurt,” a Tibetan told Reuters and his feelings were shared by many around the world. After the torch ascent, climbing- and comms bans were lifted on Everest south side. Hundreds of mountaineers celebrated summit; only two made gestures for Tibet.

That same month, Inaki Ochoa, one of the few mountaineers who took a clear stand against the Olympic games in Beijing lost his life on Annapurna. A few months later, Pavle Kozjek – the first mountaineer to send pictures from Nangpa La – perished on Trango Tower. Luis Benitez, who blew the whistle on the Cho Oyu shootings, was forced out from Himalaya by his guiding peers.

In August, a notice from Google arrived to ExplorersWeb, headlined “removal from Googles index:”

“While we were indexing your webpages, we detected that some of your pages were using techniques that are outside our quality guidelines [...] This appears to be because your site has been modified by a third party [...] we have temporarily removed some of your webpages from our search results. Currently pages from mounteverest.net are scheduled to be removed for at least 30 days.”

Aftermath

The 08/08/08 inaguaration of the Olympic games in Beijing were attended by most heads of states and business celebrities such as President Bush and Bill Gates. Putin was there too, mostly busy sending troops to Georgia.

“The impression China must get [with the Olympics] is that it does not matter how much it violates human rights; the international community seems not to care,” stated two independent Canadian investigators following a story about human organ transplant plants in China.

“With neighbouring China and India in their immoral collusion, supported by a pusillanimous Britain and United States, there is little the Tibetans can do officially to represent their interests to the world,” wrote George Patterson, who rode across the Himalayas in the winter of 1949, became involved with the Tibetan resistance and helped Dalai Lama to escape.

“Appalling sort of abdication of moral responsibility,” wrote one journalist about Everest and Nangpa La following the 2008 season.

One battle doesn’t win a war

China won. Or did they.

ExWeb cleaned up the code sneaked onto its server and MountEverest.net was back on Google within a week. New climbers began speaking up for Tibet. Two managed to sneak up a pro-Tibet t-shirt to the top of Everest, many more demonstrated around the world and new lines were forged for human rights.

While winning a short-term victory; the Beijing Olympic Games did not turn out the way the Chinese dictators had envisioned them. In spite of all their broken promises of free speech; the world managed to get a look at China’s true face.

Before the games, few people knew that China is not a free country; that only 5% of its population are members in the communist party and that 95% of the Chinese population has no influence on the political process at all.

Before the games, few knew that Xinhua is nothing but a PR agency for the government of China. That “the Great Firewall of China” is the name of China’s network of firewalls and proxy servers at the Internet gateways aimed to keep the Chinese people in the dark.

The Olympic flame put in spotlight the farms where innocent people are held alive to become organ donors to foreign recipients; and the giant slave force serving the rich. Before the games, few knew that the Chinese people yearn for democracy, science, human rights, freedom, reason, and equality.

Before the games, there was much talk about wonder economy, booming Tibet, and Chinese billionaires. After the games, people have learned that in spite of huge foreign investments; the Chinese financial success has not been striking compared to other countries in Asia. The difference between rich and poor in China has increased and half the population is living on less than $2/day – the situation is even worse in rural areas and occupied Tibet. The Olympic torch also highlighted the dangerous liasions foreign companies have made in this unpredictable climate.

Two months from now, on March 10, 2009, the walk will commence again. This year, it will mark the 50th anniversary of the 1959 uprising. Perhaps the global financial crisis will turn out Tibet’s biggest chance.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call  +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

Posted on December 15, 2008

It’s mid-December and you know what that means: ExWeb is gearing up for the 2008 Best of ExplorersWeb Awards and Year in Review. But there will be more: check out this sneak preview on what’s up in the coming weeks:

Following a somewhat slow fall; we expect a very interesting winter. Antarctica will reach its peak with several record attempts closing during January, and we will be kicking off the spring Everest and Himalaya list of expeditions earlier than usual. Meanwhile in Himalaya and Karakoram, history could be made.

Winter climbs in Himalaya are very rare, even mere attempts are unusual. In the upcoming months we will have no less than three shots on 8000ers unclimbed in winter.

To mountaineers, a Himalayan 8000+ winter summit is a much coveted triumph. Yet in the past 14 years, we have had only one such. A void of almost 20 years followed the Polish until 2005 when Moro and Polish Piotr Morawski bagged a winter first in Himalaya. Even before their ascent though; the last of the “non-first” winter ascents took place in 1994 (Cho Oyu). Here’s why:

The official record for the coldest Northern Hemisphere temperature is -67.8C (-90F) in Siberia and the lowest temperature ever recorded on earth was -89C (129F) in the Russian Base Vostok in Antarctica. Note that this was at sea level; and probably in calm conditions.

On Everest (indicative of other 8000ers), the summit temperature never rises above -33C (-27F) during winter. There are almost constant hurricane force winds (more than 3 out of 4 days) on the summit. Add oxygen depravation to the average wind chill (-70C/-90F) and you’ll find close to impossible human conditions.

Last week was mainly about interviews with leaders of the upcoming winter climbs (Artur Hajzer and Simone Moro). There were reruns about the winter history on Broad Peak and Nanga Parbat, with a big wrap-up Friday of all the main winter Himalaya facts.

In other news; one is chasing a South Pole speed record but, should he get it, how long will he keep it? A team of three speed leopards are chasing him in turn.

American Alpine Journal sent out a last call for your new-route reports, and interesting stuff is brewing on the Oceans: what’s the deal with Italian rower Alex Bellini? Check in next week for that story and keep a watch out for Ollie – soon to resume his attempt to row around Antarctica!

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

(K2Climb.net) Despite many attempts; none of Pakistan’s 8000ers have been summited in winter.

On Broad Peak, Italian Simone Moro with Pakistani climbers Shaheen Baig and Quadrat Ali have been thrown back by bad conditions in the past two years.

This past winter, Polish veteran climber Artur Hajzer, fellow Robert Szymczak and Canadian Don Bowie decided to give it a try.

The team is joined

Polish climbers are winter kings in Himalaya. Broad Peak expedition leader Artur has five 8000ers under his belt, three of them climbed via new routes; and the first winter climb on the deadly Annapurna. He was with the Polish Nanga Parbat winter attempt two years ago, which included Szymczak as expedition Doc.

Robert Szymczak and Artur Hajzer summited Dhaulagiri together last year. Shortly after, Robert joined the rescue effort for Spanish Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna’s south face.

Among the rescuers was Canadian Don Bowie, originally a team member in the Annapurna climb. Don had left the expedition but returned for the rescue; an attempt that turned out too late. This sad meeting between Don and Robert later led to Bowie’s becoming the third member of the recent BP winter expedition.

Regroups and outcomes

Facing unwanted company on Broad Peak; Simone Moro hooked up with Kazakh Denis Urubko for the last virgin winter 8000er outside Pakistan: Makalu. Against all odds, the two climbers made it (with Simone bagging his second winter virgin 8000er) while over in Pakistan, Artur, Robert and Don fought a prolonged battle against the brutal elements until finally forced to give up.

One triumph and one defeat; theirs were the only serious winter attempts this season. Here goes ExWeb’s debrief with Broad Peak expedition leader Artur Hajzer.

ExWeb: You guys really stuck it out – 75 days in the freezer. Any battle wounds today?

Artur: Robert and I are 100% OK. Don injured his knee and suffered frostbite to his nose, although I’m not sure how he’s doing now – last I saw him was on February 24th. Among our Pakistani friends only Amin is 100% OK. Taqi got knee problems and became snowblind. Ali had frostnips while Quadrat got really serious frostbite and was under doctor’s treatment.

ExWeb: The climb looks bad in the post-expedition movie; icy and steep slopes. How big is the snow-texture difference compared to summer season?

Artur: The shape of the entire mountain is completely different compared to summer – it becomes a lot more icy, with many spots of water-ice and less snow. The game becomes very different from a technical standpoint and cannot be compared to summer. It’s hard and dangerous .

On the other hand there was plenty of snow in leeward places, such as for instance on the way to lower C1. These spots instead offered an avalanche hazard.

ExWeb: You seemed a bit grumpy on New Year – how come

Artur: I was just joking. (Ed note: in a New Year’s video Artur is seen crammed between the men in a frigid high camp, telling the camera he just wants to be back in BC).

ExWeb: On Christmas you did a wild variety of prayers (as seen in another movie) and Don read from the Bible, is that even legal in Pakistan

Artur: Before the expedition every woman asked me for Don’s phone number, but when it became public that he is a man of the Bible, all the girls came running back to me. So I am happy with that film .

The situation in Pakistan is difficult – we could feel it – less people on the streets; many of them disappointed or scared even. There were almost daily terrorist incidents and hijackings. It would not surprise me if Karakoram is closed for a climbing in near future. Our Pakistani climbers were unhappy with this situation as well.

ExWeb: What was the whole mountaineering experience like compared to what you had expected and your previous winter climbs?

Artur: It was exactly as we had expected. Nepal is a different story that can’t be compared – it’s warmer with longer and better weather windows.

Compared to Nanga Parbat two years ago, the Baltoro region was cloudier and we had more days of poor visibility. While we could see Nanga’s top all the time back then, this year we only managed to see BP summit during 8-10 days. K2 had only one day of good weather and it was hardly possible to see the summit.

Comparing to my other winter expeditions (3 of them), I have to say that the conditions in BC were completely different – much more difficult.

ExWeb: Judging from the summit push video, the weather truly sucked in camp 3. How cold was it with the wind at that altitude?

Artur: We can only guess as we had no thermometers. The forecast said 30 below plus the wind which we estimated at around 80 km/h, or maybe 90 km/h – but who knows?

What we really felt was that our lives were in danger. We could not take long to set the tent up; we had to get in asap just to survive – it was a serious situation – close to our limits.

It took 15 minutes to place a pole into the tent’s entry channel and another 15 minutes to push it along the channels and secure it into the end. We then quickly put Doctor Robert inside to keep the tent floor on the ground, until Don and I managed to place the other pole in the opposite corner.

The tent came into position and shape, but we did not manage to fix all the poles so we just got inside and left it partly undone. That’s how we spent the night; holding the tent in place with our bodies, and our harnesses still clipped to the fixed rope.

On a platform below our Pakistani friends told the same story; and that’s when Quadrat got his frostbite.

I know today that we set our C3 in the wrong location; it should have been higher up where it’s less windy – but we had not managed to move it there earlier. It could also have been placed lower, below the serac, but who knew that the wind would be so strong? At least we know now, should we come back, not to put C3 there again.

ExWeb: What finally made you to call the expedition off?

Artur: It was not me. It was my wife who called this expedition off .

ExWeb: How did the logistics work out – you had to wait a while for a resupply?

Artur: Logistic was simply perfect; for the first time in my life nothing was lacking. I can say only good things about ATP Asharaf Aman Agency and his partners Naikman Karim and Essar Karim. ATP sent 80 porters to BC already in September/October (we sent a cargo to Pakistan in August), so we had enough food, fuel, equipment, etc. Nothing was lost and everything was well calculated.

We were well accommodated, and transferred by plane from Islamabad over Skardu and to BC without problems. The chopper was on time. The Pakistani climbers employed by ATP were good as well. Except for a broken gas heater in a mess tent all worked fine. We ordered a resupply just in case – but could survive without it.

(Ed note: Last year, Simone Moro reported a less smooth situation. Among serious delays with paperwok and transportation, parts of his expedition gear from a previous expedition stored with the outfitter had vanished.)

ExWeb: What were the biggest difficulties of the expedition in general, you figure?

Artur: The wind was our biggest enemy. Technical difficulties were an important factor too.

Wind and low temperatures are not the only difference compared to summer climbs: if the fixed rope brakes, the climber has no chance of survival. Because of the water ice, his body will fall to the base of the mountain. This factor had an important influence on the climbers psyche and their motivation to fight further.

ExWeb: What would you do different next time?

Artur: Next time I will sit by my computer at my office and follow the Russians making K-2 .

If I return, I’ll bring more alcohol with me. We only had 2 bottles and I agree with Victor Kozlov (whom Robert met in Islamabad) that it was far from enough. I see now that we were too trained, too athletic, too sterile, and in the end not relaxed enough. In winter in general, you just have to have much bigger balls.

The second possible solution (as in other sports) is to keep a shrink in BC, to help control the motivation level and fear factor .

ExWeb: Pros and cons with regards to gear?

Artur: The gear was perfect. We had 1500 meters of 4,5 mm Dynema rope and 1000 meters of 6 mm Dynema rope. The 4,5 mm ropes did the fixing process very fast.

We had the foot heat system that worked perfectly. Our tents, Yeti’s Residence, were designed by me for winter expeditions and worked very well, in fact I have to say they are the best in the world (in my opinion). And these gloves are not bad either. Virtually frostbite proof while easy to work with.

ExWeb: How was the food?

Artur: BC food was perfect and came in great variety – chicken with rice one day and rice with chicken the next. You could also get mutton with pasta or pasta with mutton .
Food for high camps was good too, but nothing beat a chicken from the Pakistani tent!

ExWeb: Did you feel demoralized/criticized when news on the Makalu success arrived?

Artur: Not at all. Polish climbers (including me) did such winter climbs in Nepal (even in light style) more than 20 years ago so it’s nothing special )).

Seriously speaking: the message had no big influence on us in BC, we managed to stay out of the “competition factor.” Simone and Denis motivated us to continue the winter “mission” in general; Simone is the best ambassador of our past and future winter climbs in the western part of the world. (Ed note: Himalaya winter climbs almost vanished for decades before the Polish issued a “manifesto” for younger generations to take them up again.)

From our own Polish Makalu winter attempt we knew well that Simone’s and Denis’s climb was something great. Yet as Simone knows in turn; it’s no accident that none of the Pakistani 8000 meters peaks have yet been winter climbed. Both Simone’s and our expedition were supported by Karl Gabl’s weather forecasts (we were in touch with Karl almost daily, and almost count him the 8th member of our expedition). Gabl said that the winter average temperature is 10 degree lower in Karakoram than in Nepal Himalayas.

ExWeb: Will you try again?

Artur: I am quite close to the conclusion that it will be impossible to climb 8000 meters peak in Pakistan in the nearest years. So I’m not sure if I’ll try again, but I want to.

ExWeb: Your top three most important advice for other aspiring 8000+ winter wannabes?

Artur: my advice is as follows:
- Unless you are in Denis Urubko’s shape, don’t even try.
- Agree and accept that you could die.
- Train your mind, accept high risk, and climb against weather forecasts.

ExWeb: Any other reflections/main lessons from the climb?

Artur: Weather forecast climbing is something new to me. We have never had them in the 80s.

On Broad Peak, our forecasts would say “next week will be better” and “don’t go now.” The reports showed terrible figures such as 160km/h wind or 40 below temperatures on the summit. It demotivated our whole team. The weather forecast is an element stopping progress in winter climbing – better not to look at it too much .

ExWeb: Summit or not, it clearly was a great adventure. Any regrets at all? And how much weight did you lose?

Artur: I didn’t lose any weight at all. We ate too much.

ExWeb: You’re closing in on 60, what does you comrades at home think about your lifestyle?

Artur: I’m not sure if I understand the question. I told you many times: I am 46 years old. I am not closing in on 60!!!!!!!! (Ed note: just kidding Artur )

Our Pakistani climbers were extremely fast. Noticing that I could keep up (more or less) they would tell me in camp, “OLD IS GOLD” – f***…it was not really funny My comrades are happy because I don’t drink and smoke .

ExWeb: Future plans?

ExWeb: Dog walking or the next BP winter expedition.

Artur Hajzer has summited five eightthousanders: 3 of them via new routes. He also achieved the first winter climb on Annapurna.

Dr. Robert Szymczak has been in expeditions to Kyrgyzstan, Nepal and Pakistan. He is a medical doctor specializing in high altitude medicine. He is also a member of the International Society for Mountain Medicine. Robert attempted winter Nanga Parbat in 2006/07, summited Dhaulagiri last spring with Artur and volunteered as member of the international team who tried to rescue Iñaki Ochoa de Olza on Annapurna’s south face.

Don Bowie also played a key role in Iñaki’s rescue attempt on Annapurna. 2008 marked Don’s 4th season climbing in the Himalayas, with previous expeditions to Broad Peak, Cho Oyu, K2, and the South Face/East Ridge of Annapurna in 2006 and 2008. A Canadian by birth, Don now lives in Telluride Colorado and Bishop, California.

Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 21. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.21. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 20. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.20. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

The list of Himalaya expeditions, published last Sunday, is still being updated, and last week also offered a sneak peak of the upcoming Karakoram season. The North Pole season has kicked off in brutal temperatures and one aborted expedition already.

All eyes are however on Tibet, where Tuesday (March 10), will mark 50 years of the 1959 Tibetan national uprising against China.

Winter Broad Peak: Getting out is not so easy Defeated by relentless stormy weather, the Broad Peak winter expedition left BC and walked for 11 hours down Baltoro Glacier, passing by Concordia and finally setting camp at Gore 2. Don carried 60-70 lb packs often through waist-deep snow with a knee injury.

Everest no O2 status As in previous years, few climbers plan Everest ascents without supplementary oxygen. At this time, the only confirmed are Peruvian Richard Hidalgo, Pemba Dorje Sherpa, British David Tait (climbing with HiMex), and Australian Andrew Lock, who still hopes to attempt the feat from the north side, after climbing Shisha Pangma.

Everest traverse preview As for Everest traverses, Mexican David Liaño planned (tentative of permits) to climb from the south side, traverse to Tibet, and then climb back across the summit a few days later. David has previously summited Everest twice, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. American Bill Burke, 67, hopes to complete a south-north Everest traverse. He has previously attempted the peak twice. Kazakhstan’s National team is aiming for a world’s first: the Lhotse-Everest traverse, considered as one of the main unsolved climbing problems in the Himalayas.

Kangchenjunga: Zerain’s next goal Remember Spaniard Alberto Zerain, who sped-climbed K2 last year and thus avoided the tragedy that followed hours later? The Basque climber had previously also summited Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II. Next is Kangchenjunga, according to El Correo Digital. The expedition kicks off in April.

Makalu: British Roland Hunter is teaming up with Mick Parker for a non-commercial, private expedition to Makalu. Also American Fabrizio Zangrilli will be leading an expedition to Makalu this spring. Before the “Great Black” the American mountain guide is ice-climbing in Colorado.

Karakoram sneak preview of 2009 expeditions Some interesting summer projects in Pakistan were announced last week. Among them Austrian Gerfried Göschl who will lead a strong group for Nanga Parbat and K2.Gerfried hopes to climb a new route on Nanga’s North-West face together with friends Günther Unterberger, Hans Goger and Louis Rousseau. Also K2 will hopefully get a new line; Gerfried, Louis Rousseau and Jorge Egocheaga will give it a shot if conditions allow.

Ladies turn! The 14, 8000ers status of Nives, Gerlinde and Edurne Edurne Pasaban, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Nives Meroi are all even with 11×8000ers, closing in on the Big 14 list not yet crowned by a woman. With the upcoming climbing season kicking off, ExWeb’s regular contributor Brazilian writer and chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto Peron compiled an update on the women’s’ plans.

Ryan Waters connecting the world American Ryan Waters is running a cross-cultural and educational Everest project. Ambassadors led by Doug Sandok are traveling to Nepal, in order to trek to BC and donate supplies to kids in the country. The project will provide a school in Kathmandu with computers. “This way, these children in Nepal will be able to talk with kids around the world to share information,” Waters told ExplorersWeb.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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Two traverses, one sleep-over, close to 40 expeditions on the south side and at least 8 on the north side – the list of 2009 spring Everest expeditions is up! Add to those 26 expeditions so far on the surrounding 8000ers. And that’s not all. 

Also this weekend the brand new list of North Pole expeditions went up; the Geographical North Pole, the Magnetic North Pole and other Arctic expeditions such as Lake Baikal, Baffin Island, Greenland and more.

In spite of slow economy and shaky politics – the upcoming spring season is packed as ever. Close to 100 expeditions are up so far; go check all the details and Godspeed explorers!

In other news: winter Broad Peak is over, Everest north side might be restricted again, the buzz about Federico Campanini continues, ExWeb ran an interview with two men trying the first unsupported, unassisted American quest for the North Pole, and a special feature on Pythom.com covered Robert Bigelow’s two private space stations already up and running in Earth orbit.

Winter Broad Peak is over: Don and Artur’s summit push reports, “a sadistic form of the game Twister” The impossible – what nobody can do until somebody does. “Poles have been trying for 20 years; we have been trying for over 60 days,” wrote Artur Hajzer early in the week. The team was resting from a brutal summit push, detailed on the HiMountain and Don Bowie’s websites. A few days later a weather forecast killed further plans altogether and the long expedition is now over.

Everest update: Tibet area closed for climbing until April 1, and beyond? ExplorersWeb received several off-the-record reports (one confirmed by a foreign embassy in Beijing) that the Tibetan side of Everest will be closed for climbing until April 1. The reason for the closure is likely expected protests on May 10, marking the 50th anniversary of the Dalai Lama exile. BBC reported that a Tibetan monk was recently shot after setting fire to himself during a protest. “It is extremely difficult to independently confirm any information coming out of Tibetan areas,” stated the report, “China’s authorities have restricted access to the region.”

On January 16 this year, ExplorersWeb was again affected by cyber attacks. A malicious server software was injected on the news server and this time host Rackspace managed to trace the source. The intrusions were tracked to Chinese IP addresses. The malware was exposed and blocked permanently within hours.

Simone meets Makalu winter pioneer Simone Moro was invited by Paolo Valoti to the legendary Alpine Club of Bergamo. In place was Mario Curnis. In 1980/1981, together with Renato Casarotto, Mario was the first to attempt Makalu in winter. “He opened the ‘winter games’ on Makalu and now I close them, two people from Bergamo, two friends with the same dream…” reflected Simone after the meeting.

Martin and Dodo looking for Annapurna share Martin Minarik and Dodo Kopold are headed to Annapurna South Side. The two are looking for people to share the climbing permit and cost of Base Camp. “We are leaving March 12 but interested parties can join us later,” wrote Martin in his call to ExWeb. “It’s strictly about sharing the cost of base,” he added, “the two of us will be climbing as one rope team.” Email martin@romanticczechtours.com for more info.

Chocolate Sherpa project in aid of Nepal mobile hospital In 2008 Louis-Philippe Lonke trekked solo across the length of Australia’s Simpson Desert. This time he and a team will be trekking from Kathmandu to Everest Base Camp to do the highest tasting of chocolate in the world with international mountaineers and Sherpas to raise money for a mobile hospital in Nepal. The team will be distributing 200 kg chocolates amongst Sherpas and porters.

Federico Campanini – a story that should not die Mountain guide Federico Campanini, 31, and one of his clients (Elena Senin, 38) perished on Aconcagua around January 8 after their group summited via the normal route. A video posted showed Federico still alive, surrounded by a group of rescuers/guides. The video has stirred heated feelings in the community. “At least climbers should be made aware of the total carelessness of the SAR on Aconcagua,” wrote one climber. “You covered the K2 events very well last year, and other similar in the past, I really think that you cannot bypass this story.”

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 21.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

Himalaya wrap-up: over on Broad Peak.

2009, February 25

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) It’s over on Broad Peak – don’t miss out on the big push debrief posted earlier this week.  

Broad Peak – it’s over

Expedition leader Artur Hajzer writes today on the HiMountain website that forecasts show no chance of a window before March 21, the end of Calendar winter. With prospects of constant 100 km per hour wind on summit level, the expedition decided to abort. Artur is in Skardu organizing porters and BC is packed up.

“Climbers have been trying this at least for 20 years, will anyone succeed in the future?” asks expedition leader Artur Hajzer.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 20. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.20. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.21.

Odwrót wyprawy na Broad Peak.

Pogoda nie daje szans na atak szczytowy w zimie kalendarzowej i wyprawa kończy działalność.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Pogoda nie daje szans na atak szczytowy. 25.02.2009

Według prognoz Instytutu Meteo, do 21 marca 2009 roku, czyli do końca zimy, nie będzie pogody pozwalającej na atakowanie szczytu. Będzie wiał ciągle silny wiatr osiągający w partiach szczytowych prędkość do 100 km/godz. W tej sytuacji, nie mając wyboru, wyprawa postanowiła zakończyć oblężenie góry. Przystąpiono do likwidacji obozów i bazy.

Wszystkie ośmiotysięczniki w Karakorum, oraz jedyny leżący również w Pakistanie himalajski szczyt Nanga Parbat, pozostają nadal zimą niezdobyte! Przez 20 lat nie udało się, czy uda się w przyszłości?

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 20. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.20. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 20.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

Don and Artur’s summit push reports, “a sadistic form of the game Twister”.

2009, February 23

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) The impossible – what nobody can do until somebody does. 

“Are the Karakoram 8000ers’ summits really unreachable during winter?,” Artur Hajzer wonders. “Poles have been trying for 20 years, we have been trying for over 60 days. Will we have another try? Maybe. However, a 4-day weather window is a must.”

Imagine yourself camping out for over two months on the top of Mount Whitney (4421 m/14,505 ft) or Mont Blanc (4,810 m) – in winter. In Broad Peak BC (+5000 m) climbers are using the slow, cold and neverending days to post reports on their recent summit push.

To get the proper idea – imagine winter climbing to the top of Mount McKinley (6,193 m/20,320 ft) followed by a restless night at the top of Aconcagua (6,962 metres/22,841 ft) – and you’re still not there! Here goes:

Friday 13th: Hugging rocks

“The ascent to Camp 2 – on Friday the 13th, mind you – should have been the first indicator,” Don Bowie recalled.   “Winds at the elevation of ‘Summer’ Camp 2 forced Qadrat, Ali, Amin, and I to fall prostrate every few minutes, hugging every available rock to avoid being flown off.”

“The hardest was to come at the end though,” Artur reported. “Our tents weren’t awaiting us in Camp II. Even the one we had previously rolled over and attached to the ground with rocks was torn and with a broken mast. The second tent had all poles broken and many holes.”

Camp 2: creative engineering

“It took over 2 hours of creative engineering, various rigging, and forced ingenuity to make one of the two tents inhabitable, using spare parts from the unsalvageable tent, and taking adequate breaks to pull our hands inside our mitts to save our fingers,” Don added.

The six men were forced to spend a sleepless night crammed in the two-person tent. “A nightmare,” Artur put down. 

“A sadistic form of the game Twister,” Don chimed in, “played inside a meat locker, inside a wind tunnel, in the middle of O’Hare airport runway, in record setting winter.”

Valentine’s day: no kisses, Amin brings it all out

“On Feb 14, Saturday, horrible weather prevented us from heading up to C3,” Artur stated. “We were also wasted, so we waited out that day.”

“Meanwhile, Amin began an impressive display of super-strength: he would descend to base camp and return to Camp 3 with another tent the following day – a vertical gain of over 2000 meters,” Don noted.

”A forecast reported by midnight gave us a weak chance on the wind blowing at 50 km per hour on Feb 17th,” said Artur. “We decided to stick to that little hope and to reach Camp III (7000m).”

Feb 15th: bad dreams above the abyss

“On Sunday we set off for C3 (7000m),” Artur recalled. “At the beginning it was quite easy: The sky was clear blue and the wind was blowing gently – but hell unfolded as we reached the place were we had our gear cached and the tent-platforms to pitch C3.”

“As I crested the Camp 3 ridge, I was greeted by even higher winds and blowing snow,” Don reported. “’It’s going to be a little tough to set up the tent in this,’ I thought to myself (according to Artur, the gale was blowing at 90km/h). But we managed – barely.”

“One of us was inside the tent playing anchor, to avoid blowing the tent out,” Artur explained. “Similar difficulties happened to Pakistanis on lower platform. Only by dusk we could rest, properly-set tents; it was when we were informed of Quadrat Ali’s frostbites.”

“I put my boots on and climbed out of the crammed tent, then down the rock slabs in the dark to the other tent,” Bowie recounted. “After a brief conversation and inspecting Qadrat’s fingers, I returned to our tent to get the emergency oxygen bottle we had stashed in Camp 3 a few weeks prior, and filled a bag of snow for the Pakistanis to melt for drinks. (Oxygen therapy immediately after frostbite limits some tissue damage.) Back in our tent, the night was cramped, cold, and windy.”

“25% of our tent was hanging above the abyss and the whole night we had a feeling that the our tent was sliding down,” Artur said. “Just in case, we were attached to a fixing-rope. We had no doubts that the summit push was over.”

Feb 16th: the nylon burrito

“I awoke around 8am to the tent being absolutely battered by gusts of wind,” Don went on. “’If this gets any stronger, we’re gonna get blown off the mountain,’ I thought, and immediately put my boots on and started packing my things. “ According to Don, their tent was almost blown off as he exited, with Robert and Artur still inside.

“We finally flipped the tent over and wrapped the entire thing into a sorta nylon burrito, tied with rope as tight as we could get it,” Don recalled.

“After it was secure (mostly), we threw the depot gear bag on top and clipped it to the rope. It was at this time that I realized my climbing harness was still inside the burrito. It was far too cold and things were getting desperate, making the option of untying the whole ordeal and searching for it out of the question.”

Descent by hand-wrap-rappel, “I didn’t say a prayer first”

“Instead, I unclipped a short piece of webbing from my pack and clipped it around my waist with a carabineer borrowed from Artur. I would have to do the ‘hand-wrap-rappel’ descent all the way to the glacier. I put on my pack, climbed to the edge of the ridge, wrapped my right hand around the 4mm rope, and stepped over the ridge. I didn’t say a prayer first. I said a prayer the whole way down.”

“After descending all day long, we finally reached BC wasted, beaten-up, physically and mentally exhausted,” Artur closed the debrief. “One Pakistani had 2nd degree frostbites. Continuing foul weather confirmed that to retreat had been the adequate decision to make.”

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.20.

Ostro złoiło nam skórę – Don Bowie o 13 i 14 lutego.

Relacja : Don Bowie
Ostro złoiło nam skórę – Don Bowie o 13 i 14 lutego.  20.02.2009

Nie ma co ściemniać.  Nie ma co unikać tematu : warunki na Broad Peak przekraczają możliwości każdego człowieka. Twierdzenie inaczej, to przejaw arogancji, więc nie waham się twierdzić, że ponieśliśmy  (choćby chwilową) porażkę. Silne wiatry – z łatwością przekraczające 100 km na godzinę – i temperatury poniżej -35 C, niekończące się płyty monotonnego kuloodpornego lodu, podmuch, który zmiótł nasz namiot w Obozie III (wysokość około 7000 m), to wszystko pokazuje, że góra ma tyle mozliwości by nas pokonać i póki co nie pozwala  wpuszczać nas wyżej niż 7000 m.

Moim zdaniem, to ostatnie podejście było raczej próbą stawienia czoła z najgorszym z czym czekała na nas góra, z nadzieją, że potraktuje nas uprzejmie, że da nam fory. Moją sugestią było, abyśmy tego nie robili, takie jest też moje aktualne silne przekonanie. Czuję się jak dzieciak, ostrzegany aby nie wkładać rąk do piekarnika, z małym oparzeniem na palcu jako przypomnieniem. Góra sobie mnie odpuściła z pomniejszymi “powierzchownymi odmrożeniami” na nosie i policzkach, oraz z postępującym zanikiem czucia w palcach rąk i nóg. Quadrat’a to też wiele nie kosztowało, z odmrożeniami 5-ciu palców – jeden palec szczególnie zraniony – aczkolwiek nikt nie sądzi, że aż tak ucierpiał żeby coś musieć stracić, więc jemu się tak czy inaczej poszczęściło.

Wejście do Obozu II – w piątek trzynastego dla przypomnienia – powinno być pierwszym wskaźnikiem. Wiatry na wysokości letniego Obózu II zmusiły Quadrta Ali, Amina i mnie do stałego przylegania do podłoża, co kilka minut chwytając się każdego możliwego fragmentu skały, by uniknąć zwiania. Udało mi się filmować tylko dwa razy: za pierwszym razem zza skały tylko na kilka sekund nim palce mi zamarzną, za drugim razem na wysokości letniego Obozu II w pełnym wietrze na wysokości około 6200 m. Na innym klipie widać biały zamarznięty pasek na moim nosie. Na tej wysokości nasze gogle były kompletnie zalodzone i bezużyteczne.

Kiedy około 15:30 czworo z nas ostatecznie dotarło do zimowego Obozu II, mieliśmy do czynienia z huraganem w pełnej sile. Ku naszemu zdziwieniu oba namioty były zmasakrowane przez wiatr i nie było miejsca w którym mogliśmy się schronić. W tak silnym wietrze z trudem przychodziło oddychać; by się komunikować musieliśmy sobie krzyczeć do uszu. Dwie godziny kreatywnego konstruowania, różnorodnego olinowania oraz wymuszonej pomysłowości zajęło nam zrobienie jednego namiotu z dwóch niezdolnych do zamieszkania. Użyliśmy pozostałych części z namiotu  niemożliwego do odratowania, pamiętając o przerwach na chowanie dłoni w łapawicach by chronić nasze palce. Około 18:15, czworo z nas ostatecznie wbiło się do namiotu. Próbowaliśmy wzajemnie się ogrzewać i zachęcać, śmiejąc się nad okropnymi warunkami na zewnątrz.

Chwilę przed 19:00 przybył Artur z podążającym za nim Robertem. W namiocie uszytym dla trójki osób ścieśnionych było nas sześcioro – dość ciasne kwatery, ale bliski kontakt ciał dawał jakieś szczątkowe ciepło. Odpaliłem kuchenkę i zacząłem serwować herbatę, podczas kiedy inni topili lód na zupy i inne napoje. Noc była –delikatnie mówiąc–  raczej nieniekomfortowa. Przez noc, tkwiliśmy w jednej pozycji, bez możliwości poruszenia się,, uwięzieni w plątaninie kolan, łokci i zamarzniętego nylonu – sadystyczna zabawa. Robert i ja leżeliśmy po prawej stronie namiotu, krystaliczne odłamki lodu przedzierające się przez zamek wejścia namiotu, zamieniały lewą stronę mojego ubrania w zmrożony pudrowany pączek. Trzeba powiedzieć, że noc była dla każdego męczarnią. Jedynym pocieszeniem było to, że z powodu kolana, Taqui zszedł do Obozu I, więc jedna sardynka wypadła z kompletu.

W sobotę, 14 lutego, w ciągu dnia po raz pierwszy wiatr trochę zmniejszył  siłę. Ale popołudniem znowu przybrał na sile. Mimo, iż wiatr był trochę słabszy niż dnia poprzedniego, pomysł wspinania się do Obozu III był co najmniej nieodpowiedni, więc przeczekaliśmy. Z rana, w rozmowie Artura i Aliego, pojawił się pomysł aby rozstawić mały namiot Vaude, dając tym samym trochę przestrzeni na oddech. Ostatecznie zmniejszyło to naszą liczbę o jedną osobę. W międzyczasie Amin, wykazał się niesamowitą determinacją i super siłą: zszedł do Bazy i wrócił do Obozu II z namiotem -  w pionie pokonał jakieś 2000 m.

Dla przypomnienie, wcześniej publikowany  film – walka z huraganem :

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 19. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.19. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 19.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

Himalaya wrap-up: Broad Peak’s reflections.

2009, February 20

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Don Bowie and his mates on Broad Peak lick their wounds in BC and decide on their next move.

Winter Broad Peak: “We got our butts kicked!”

“There’s no other way to say it, so I won’t hesitate to admit our (at least momentary) defeat, “ Don Bowie reported. “High winds – at times easily more than 100km/h – and temperatures below minus -35C, added to endless sheets of continuous, monotonous, bullet-proof ice, were the tools of our challenger, and the challenger outmatched us – the final blow being the collapse of our tent at Camp 3.”

“Is my firm conviction that we not try this again,” Don added. ” I feel like a child, warned not to touch the oven, left with a little sting to remind us why: The mountain let me off easy, with some minor “frostnip” on my nose and cheek, in addition to an increasing numbness already resident on all my fingertips and toes. Quadrat didn’t fare so well, with frostbite to 5 fingers, one in particular is a little serious – but, none is serious enough that he will lose anything, so he is fortunate as well. Robert suffered a small patch of frostnip on his cheek. The rest managed to escape with little more than a bitter scolding.”

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.19.

Co się zdarzyło między 13 a 16 lutego – uzupełnienie opisu zdarzeń.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Co się zdarzyło między 13 a 16 lutego – uzupełnienie opisu zdarzeń. 19.02.2009

Dzisiaj tj. 19 lutego otrzymaliśmy od Artura Hajzera  telefoniczny – z powodu awarii laptopa-  opis ataku szczytowego, opis zdarzeń,  które miały miejsce między 13 a 16 lutego. Jest to uzupełnienie  zamieszczonych już relacji z tamtych dni.   A było  tak :

Dość mieliśmy „siedzenia w bazie”, wiedzieliśmy już, że „za darmo”, przechytrzając zimę, tej góry raczej się nie zdobędzie. I choć prognoza na dni 13-15 luty nienajlepsza (wiatr 60-90 km/h, mgła, opady śniegu) to zakładamy, że po linach do 3 – go obozu dojdziemy. Na dni 16-17 luty, mieliśmy mglistą zapowiedź dobrej pogody, o wietrze nie silniejszym niż 50 km/h.

13 luty 2009, piątek. Ruszyliśmy w górę. Do obozu II szliśmy aż 11 godzin. Wiało. Na formacjach wypukłych zmuszeni byliśmy do przyjęcia pozycji „na kolanach”. Końcówka była najgorsza. Przychodziło  nam w podmuchach polegiwać. Namioty w dwójce nie czekały na nas niestety. Jeden został potargany choć był zrolowany i przyciśnięty kamieniami – niestety niestarannie, bo wypadł z niego maszt. Drugi miał połamane maszty i dziury. Z tych dwóch rzęchów zrobiliśmy jako-taki jeden, w miarę dobry. Był to namiot 2-osoowy. Musieliśmy się zmieścić w nim w sześciu. Co za rzeźnia! Koszmar.

14 luty 2009, sobota. Rano pogoda potworna, nie puszczała do góry. Ale też nie mieliśmy za bardzo siły. Przeczekaliśmy ten dzień.

O północy nasz 8-my uczestnik wyprawy, przebywający w Insbrucku meteorolog Karl Gabel, telefonicznie dał nam małą szansą, że 17 lutego wiatr osłabnie i będzie wiał na szczycie z prędkością 50 km/h. Postanowiliśmy wykorzystać ten niewielki cień nadziei i podejść wyżej do obozu III (7000m)

15 luty 2009,niedziela. Wyruszyliśmy do obozu III (7000m). Początkowo szło dobrze. Było błękitne niebo a podmuchy wiatru niezbyt dokuczliwe. Po wyjściu na grzędę gdzie był depozyt i platformy naszego obozu 3 zaczęło się prawdziwe piekło. Wiatr wiejący 90 km/h nie pozwalał nam rozbić namiotów. W takich warunkach, w łapawicach, klęcząc, trafienie masztem do namiotowego tunelu zajmuje więcej niż 15 minut. Jeden z nas był w płachcie namiotu jako kotwica, żeby go nie porwało. Podobne trudności na niższej platformie mieli  Pakistanczycy. Dopiero o zmierzchu byliśmy w środku rozstawionych namiotów. Wtedy dowiedzieliśmy się o odmrożeniach Aliego. 25% naszego namiotu zwisało nad czeluścią a namiot przez całą noc zdawał się obsuwać. Na wszelki wypadek przypięci byliśmy do liny poręczowej. Nie mieliśmy już złudzeń, że jest po ataku szczytowym.

16 luty 2009, poniedziałek. Zła pogoda. Schodzimy cały dzień.. Do bazy przychodzimy wyczerpani, poobijani, wykończeni psychicznie i fizycznie. Jeden Pakistanczyk wrócił z odmrożeniami rąk  2-go stopnia. Zła pogoda się utrzymuje. Utwierdza nas, że słusznie zrobiliśmy schodząc do bazy.

Czyżby nie dało się w ogóle zdobyć ośmiotysięcznika zimą w Karakorum??? Polacy próbują już 20 lat, a my ponad 60 dni. Czy spróbujemy jeszcze raz ? Nie wykluczone, ale musi być 4 dniowe bezpieczne okno dobrej pogody.

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 18. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.18. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Last week was dominated by a disturbing video showing a climber’s final moments below the summit of Aconcagua. The clip, posted on youtube by the victim’s father, outraged general public in Argentina as well as experienced mountaineers.

In other news; climbers were brutally sent down from Broad Peak’s frigid slopes, but the expedition is still on.

Winter Broad Peak High winds thwarted the team’s summit attempt on Broad Peak. The climbers retreated from C3 after three sleepless nights and four days of struggle in very hard conditions. Pakistani climber Quadrat Ali suffered frostbite and is headed home. Treated in situ by climbing doc Robert Szymczak, Ali will get to keep all his fingers. The remaining climbers, on the mountain for 2 months already, are still sticking it out.

Aconcagua: last moments on YouTube Mountain guide Federico Campanini, 31, and one of his clients (Elena Senin, 38) perished on Aconcagua around January 8 after their group summited via the normal route. On descent, the mountaineers reportedly lost their way in a sudden storm and mistakenly descended the technical Polish route. Federico and Elena reportedly fell to their deaths, while the rest of the team were airlifted out. Last week, a video posted on YouTube by Campanini’s father showed Federico still alive at about 6500 meters/21,000 FT, surrounded by a group of rescuers/guides; some dragging him in a rope, others possibly cursing at him (translations vary) and one asking for permission over radio to leave the crawling climber behind, claiming that he has “no more than 40 minutes to live.”

Makalu: home sweet home Simone Moro arrived back home in Italy on Wednesday. “My family was there waiting for me and organized a small party,” the climber reported. “Denis has remained in Kathmandu waiting for Jagat, Mingma and all the expedition’s equipment. He will let everything to dry up, make an inventory and repair whatever may be damaged. Thank you Denis for your help.”

Andrew Lock’s 14×8000ers grand final: Shisha Pangma + NoO2 Everest Andrew Lock hopes to become the first Australian to complete the 14×8000ers list, by summiting the last peak he has left to climb: Shisha Pangma. After climbing Shisha, he still hopes to attempt a no-O2 ascent on Everest’s north side on his own. “Although he’s summited Everest twice before, both ascents were done with supplementary oxygen, so he’d like to finish off the project with an oxygenless ascent of the big E,” his home team stated.

Spring 2009: Abramov’s team back to Everest – Tibet side Alex Abramov and his “7 Summits-Club” are also heading back to Everest’s Tibetan side. The expedition will include 16 members, 17 Sherpas, 5 guides and a Doctor. Check in next week for the ExWeb list of expeditions and some news on the Chinese side Himalaya situation.

Video clip series focusing on the polar regions Producer Armand Dijcks and polar adventurer Philip de Roo collaborated in the production of a video clips series covering, among other experiences, “the zen of skiing on Greenland’s icecap, the fear felt during a polar storm, and the thrill of dog sledding.” Check Icescapes.tv.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 18.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

Videos worth a thousand words: Broad Peak hell.

2009, February 18

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Robert Szymczak has recorded the winter Broad Peak mountaineers climbing together to C3 and back in high winds.

Broad Peak: High wind on video

“Don and the team are safe in base camp,” Don Bowie’s home team posted yesterday. “They had to abort their summit bid due to severe weather conditions and other circumstances.”

Artur and Robert have posted a short yet telling video on HiMountain.pl. The footage was shot on Sunday when, after two nights in C2, the climbers set off towards 7,000 meters in high winds.

Watch the blizzard hit the slopes :

As for Pakistani climber Quadrat Ali’s frostbites, Artur reported:

“On February 16th, 2009 in Camp 3, altitude 7000 m, Pakistani climber Quadrat Ali suffered frostbite on 5 fingers (3  fingers on his left hand and 2 fingers on the right hand) while setting up a tent in severe weather conditions. One finger shows 2nd degree frostbite, while 4 fingers suffer from 1st degree frostbite.”

Lucky for Ali, Robert Szymczak is a doctor and could treat the climber fast. Looks like the mountaineer will get to keep all his fingers, although the expedition is now over for him. Quadrat will return home as soon as weather allows.

Winter Broad Peak update: Summit push aborted – team back in BC.

2009, February 17

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) High winds have thwarted Artur Hajzer’s team summit attempt on Broad Peak. The climbers retreated from C3 back to BC yesterday after three sleepless nights and four days of struggle in very tough conditions.

C3 in the storm

“It was hell,” HiMountain home team member Grzegorz Chwola told ExplorersWeb. “The wind didn’t drop down to 50km/h as forecasted. On the contrary, the climbers were barely able to reach C3 in a major storm on Sunday. They hardly managed to pitch their tents for a third sleepless night.”

“On Monday morning, the storm was still ongoing. Moreover, they found out one of the Pakistani climbers had seriously frostbitten hands. In such conditions, retreat was the only option. They climbed back down and eventually reached BC utterly wasted.”

News expected from Broad Peak’s winter summit push.

2009, February 16

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) It has been a busy Valentine’s/President’s day weekend. The Makalu summiteers posted their top-video late Friday and news is expected since Saturday from the winter Broad Peak team, currently pushing for the first winter 8000+ meter summit ever achieved in the Karakoram range. According to plans, the climbers hoped to reach the top today.

Broad Peak: Summit push – news expected

News is expected since Saturday from Artur, Don, Robert and the Pakistani climbers, currently on a summit push on winter Broad Peak. According to their latest update, reported over sat-phone on Feb. 14th in the morning, six climbers were in C2, waiting for the wind to drop enough to let them proceed up to C3.

Pakistani team member Taqi, who had joined the summit team at departure from BC on Friday, eventually retreated and returned safely back down.

The men’s plan was to reach C3 on Saturday, set up C4 for the night at 7,700 yesterday and, conditions permitting, attempt to reach the summit today.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.18.

Odmrożone ręce Quadrat Ali.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Odmrożone ręce Quadrat Ali. 18.02.2009 

Dzisiaj, tj 18 lutego, Artur Hajzer przysłał informację -komunikat na temat odmrożonych rąk pakistańskiego wspinacza Quadrat Ali:

“15 lutego 2009, w obozie III, na  wysokości  7000 metrów, podczas rozbijania namiotu  w trudnych warunkach atmosferycznych odmroził pięć palców u rąk (3 w lewej, 2 w prawej) pakistański wspinacz Quadrat Ali. (Jeden palec – odmrożenie drugiego stopnia, cztery palce – odmrożenie pierwszego stopnia).

Na miejscu znajdował się lekarz wyprawy doktor Robert Szymczak, który udzielił mu natychmiast niezbędnej pomocy medycznej. 16 lutego Quadrat Ali zszedł do bazy położonej na wysokości 4700 metrów, gdzie pozostaje pod stałą opieką medyczną i czuje się dobrze.  Diagnoza lekarska wskazuje, że palce nie są zagrożone amputacją . Quadrat Ali nie może uczestniczyć w dalszej akcji wspinaczkowej, a jego powrót do domu uzależniony jest od warunków pogodowych na Lodowcu Baltoro.

Artur Hajzer

Kierownik wyprawy HiMountain Broad Peak Winter Expedition 2008/2009 “

Życzymy Alemu zdrowia !!

W wietrze do obozu III – film.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
W wietrze do obozu III – film. 17.02.2009

Przedstawiamy film, o tym, jak w niedzielę, 15 lutego, po 2 nocach spędzonych w obozie II (6200m), uczestnicy wyprawy idą w górę do obozu III (7000m).  Opowiada Robert Szymczak. Widzimy i słyszymy huraganowy wiatr wywiewający śnieg, który staje się śnieżnym tumanem, odsłania lód…………  Obejrzyjcie krótki filmik.

W  wietrze do obozu III – kliknij film :

Cztery dni walki i powrót do bazy.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Cztery dni walki i powrót do bazy. 16.02.2009

Wczoraj ( niedziela, 15.02.) nie było żadnych wieści z wyprawy, więc sądziliśmy, że idą z obozu II  (6200m) w górę. I tak było. Doszli do obozu III (7000m) w sztormie. Prognoza Karla Gabla nie sprawdziła się:  miało wiać z prędkością 50 km/godz. A zrobiło się piekło. Z trudem rozstawili namioty. Przeżyli trzecią nieprzespaną noc. Dzisiaj rano okazało się, że jeden Pakistańczyk poważnie odmroził ręce. Sztorm nie ustępował. Pozostał odwrót. Potwornie zmęczeni wrócili do bazy.

Przeczekiwanie w obozie II.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Przeczekiwanie w obozie II. 14.02.2009

Noc z 13 na 14 lutego spędzili w szóstkę,  w jednym namiocie.  Jeden  Pakistańczyk  poszedł  do bazy by jutro przynieść do obozu III, na 7000 m, namiot. Niesamowity wyczyn- jeśli tego dokona. Pozostała piątka skurczona w namiocie przeczekuje złą pogodę. Jutro ruszają do obozu III, który właściwie jest tylko pozostawionym ładunkiem ze sprzętem i jedzeniem.

Wiadomo już, że plan atakowania szczytu uległ zmianie: 16-go lutego szczytu nie zaatakują.

Wiadomość otrzymana od Artura Hajzera o godz  12 30 naszego czasu:

“Udało nam sie rozbić zapasowy, jednopałąkowy namiot szturmowy. Żeby wiatr go nie zmiażdżył zrobiliśmy dodatkowe odciągi. Prognoza pogody zła, chociaż  wiatr wieje z mniejszą siłą.”

Atak szczytowy rozpoczęty.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Atak szczytowy rozpoczęty. 13.02.2009

Dzisiaj tj. 13 lutego, w piątek, nie przejmując się przesądami ruszyli z bazy by zaatakować szczyt.

Po 11 godzinach wspinaczki w huraganowym wietrze, osiągającym prędkość 90 km na godzinę, dotarli do obozu II.

Zastali porozrywane namioty. Z dwóch zrobili jeden i położyli się w nim w 6 osób.   Pakistańczyk Tagi wycofał się w połowie drogi z powodu bólu kolana. Dlatego są tylko w szóstkę. Biorąc pod uwagę spanie w jednym namiocie to może i lepiej?

Jaka będzie ich dzisiejsza noc? Jaki będzie wiatr? Co przyniesie jutrzejszy dzień ?

Plan ataku szczytowego.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Plan ataku szczytowego. 12.02.2009

Jest nadzieja i szansa na atak szczytowy. Prognoza pogody przewiduje 2 dni niezupełnie dobrej pogody. To właściwie o 2 dni za mało. Ale wyprawa decyduje się atakować szczyt. Oto szczegółowy plan ataku szczytowego przesłany (w czwartek, 12-go lutego) przez Artura Hajzera:
“Wygląda na to, że 13-go w piątek rozpoczniemy 4-niowy atak na szczyt. Prognoza pogody “9-go uczestnika wyprawy” przebywającego w Insbrucku – Karla Gabla przewiduje dwudniowe okno pogodowe w dniach 15-16.02. Siła wiatru ma wahać się w granicach 60km/h a może się zdarzyć nawet 40 km/h. Widoczność ma być dobra, bez opadów a poniedziałek 16-go ma być nawet słoneczny. Spodziewamy się temperatury na 8000 w okolicach minus 38 st.C.

Nasz plan jest następujący:

13.02 -idziemy z bazy do c2

14.02 -idziemy do c3 i jak się da to przenosimy obóz o 200 m wyżej

15.02 -idziemy na 7700 i tu śpimy w założonym z marszu obozie szturmowym o nazwie c4.

16.02 -atakujemy wierzchołek i schodzimy do c2

17.02 -schodzimy do bazy.

Dni 13-go i 14-go będą trudne, towarzyszyć nam będzie opad śniegu, wiatr do 70km/h, słaba widoczność. Szcególnie wspinaczka na 7000m w dniu 14-go będzie odbywać się w trudnych warunkach – ale zakładamy, że damy radę. Nagrodą ma być znacznie lepsza pogoda 15-go.

Plany utrudnić albo pokrzyżować może ewentualne zagrożenie lawinowe w drodze do c1 na wys 5000 – ale mamy nadzieję, że dziś w nocy wiatr śnieg ubije i będziemy relizowali plan bez zakłóceń.

Pozdrawiamy

Artur i BP Exp. Team “

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 17. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.17. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

They did it! Winter Makalu is no longer virgin and history could be made also on Broad Peak where a summit push has been ongoing this Valentine’s/President Day weekend.

The action packed week also brought the last entries from HumanEdgeTech – with product testimonies from users and a big interview with HET chief Tom.

Makalu history has been made They did it! Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko summited Makalu in a hard climb at 2 pm local time February 9. Check in at ExWeb for a special story, summit voice calls, pics and video. Lena Laletina from RussianClimb visited with ExWeb in US at the time of the historic summit. All events combined called for multiple shots of “Putinka” vodka and a big party on three sides of Himalaya; also on Broad Peak climbers cheered and toasted for the Makalu success closing the winter firsts in Nepal/Tibet Himalaya.

Broad Peak summit push! News is expected since Saturday from the winter Broad Peak team, currently pushing for the first winter 8000+ meter summit ever achieved in the Karakoram range. According to plans, the climbers hoped to reach the top today, Monday. However, the weather report forecasted a very slim break and uncertain conditions. One Polish report to ExWeb Monday stated that the mountaineers might have turned back after reaching Camp III in a big storm, and their third sleepless night. A Pakistani climber reportedly suffered frostbite and the climb in general was reported as plain hellish.

2009 HumanEdgeTech Everest and Himalaya Special, part 4: reviews of P50 and HEAT In the past three entries of HET’s 2009 tech week, we covered news in satellite comms. But what about the performance of HET products introduced last year, such as the P50 and HEAT? Last week ExWEb posted testimonies from a number of early adapters.

ExWeb interview with expedition tech guru Tom Sjogren, “doing and knowing is what separates us most” Thomas Sjogren drums up little noise about his expeditions yet you would be hard pressed to find anyone with his resume in the adventure tech business. Last week ExWeb ran a popular (and first ever) two-part interview with the low-key tech expert and world-class explorer.

Patagonia: Camilo and Anna’s Aguja Poincenot summit debrief After opening a new variation route on Aguja Guillomet, Colombians Camilo López and Anna Pfaff have now climbed another Patagonian spire: Aguja Poincenot. Check the debrief at ExWeb.

Climbers announcing plans for 2009 The 2009 lists of Himalaya and North Pole expeditions are in the works! Some sneak previews – Portuguese Joao García hopes to turn Manaslu into his 12th 8000er, and SummitClimb outfitter has announced expeditions to Cho Oyu and both sides of Everest.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call  +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 17.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, February 09

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) The weather is still bad in Karakoram – climbers are in BC. “You can’t be nervous or impatient,” Hajzer reflected. “First of all, you can’t make a false start. Second, you can’t give up without a reason, just because of boredom.” The team is running out of gas and food. They ordered a resupply already on January 20th, but first the hired chopper was grounded due to bad weather and then there were difficulties with a new commander in charge.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.17.

W Karakorum pogoda wciąż jest zła – wspinacze nadal przebywają w bazie.

Nie można okazywać zdenerwowania lub zniecierpliwienia – mówi Artur Hajzer – łatwo zrobić falstart, lub ruszyć w górę choćby z nudów i ryzykować utratę prawdziwej okazji.
Zapasy paliwa i żywności są na ukończeniu. Już 20 stycznia zamówili zaopatrzenie, jednak helikopter nie mógł wystartować z powodu złej pogody, a następnie były trudności z dogadaniem się z nowym dowódcą.

Źródło: www.mounteverest.net

Piekło w bazie.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Piekło w bazie. 05.02.2009

Dzisiaj (5.02.) wieje huraganowy wiatr. Połamał maszt w namiocie. Namiot kuchenny musi podpierać kilka osób by go nie zmiotło. Przy takim wietrze wspinanie jest niemożliwe. Plan wykorzystania dwudniowego “okna” dobrej pogody na atak szczytowy, a  podchodzenie lub przebywanie w wyższym obozie w takim sztormie, to mżonki. Nie da się tego zrobić. Nie ma sensu nawet próbować, bo próba skończyłaby się tragicznie.

Jutro, jeśli pogoda pozwoli, wyruszy po raz drugi eskpedycja do posterunku żołnierzy pakistańskich, stacjonujących w okolicy Concordii. Celem jest zakup benzyny. Bez benzyny  trzeba będzie zamknąć kino bazowe. Posiadany zapas starcza jeszcze na 5 seansów.  Trudno wyobrazić sobie życie w bazie bez kina. Na helikopter liczyć nie można, benzyny nie przywiezie.

Do obozu III – film.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Do obozu III – film. 05.02.2009

Otrzymaliśmy filmową relację z dwudniowej (31.01-1.02) wspinaczki grupy 5-ciu (Don Bowie i 4 pakistańczyków); wspinaczki od bazy przez obóz II (6300m), do obozu(depozytu) III położonego na wysokości 7000m. Celem wyjścia było przeniesienie obozu III wyżej, o 200 m. Z powodu złej widoczności i silnego wiatru nie został zrealizowany.

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 16. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.16. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

While in Karakoram none of the 8000ers have been winter climbed, only one remains in Nepal Himalaya – Makalu – where history could be made within the next 12 hours.

Only 8 hours ago (3 am US Mountain Time), Simone called in a voice dispatch stating the men were at 7700 meters, with a view of the summit! He and Denis will attempt final push only a few hours from the time of this posting. Go to ExWeb for the full story and further updates.

In other news: the 2009 Everest tech series kicked off Wednesday. Check in next week for the finals, user reviews of P50 and HEAT plus an interview with HET Chief Tom Sjogren. 

Makalu Simone and Denis practiced climbing in hard conditions in the narrow gully towards Makalu La last week, adding altitude to their acclimatization with a climb to 1000 meters below Makalu’s summit and speed climbing to C1 and back. A favorable weather forecast made the men start a summit push Saturday, reaching 7700 meters on Sunday local time.

Broad Peak The weather is still bad in Karakoram – climbers are in BC. “You can’t be nervous or impatient,” Hajzer reflected. “First of all, you can’t make a false start. Second, you can’t give up without a reason, just because of boredom.” The team is running out of gas and food. They ordered a resupply already on January 20th, but first the hired chopper was grounded due to bad weather and then there were difficulties with a new commander in charge.

Spring 2009: Baruntse, anyone? Ang Karma Sherpa from Wind Horse Trekking got possible permit share takers with the Koreans on Annapurna, Dhaulagiri and Manaslu. Several climbers including Peter Hamor and Piotr Morawski (going for Dhaulagiri and Manaslu) have checked in. Four Slovak climbers on a tight budget, arriving Nepal on April 2nd and going for Baruntse, would also like more climbers to join their permit.

Spring 2009 Everest sneak preview Dan Mazur’s SummitClimb outfitter is launching expeditions on Everest (from both the Nepalese and Tibetan sides), Lhotse, and Cho Oyu in spring, 2009. South side Everest’s and Lhotse’s expeditions will be led by San Mansikka, and Arnold Coster will lead the team climbing Everest from Tibet. Meanwhile, Dan will lead the Cho Oyu climb. Registration deadline for Everest teams is February 1, while a second group could be fixed up before February 15.

2009 HumanEdgeTech Everest and Himalaya Special, part 1: the phone and the radio Too many of last year’s victims in Karakoram and Himalaya carried no means of communication – an additional weight of 130gr (4.5oz), or the equivalent of a single warm glove. The 2009 edition of the Everest tech week kicked off with a brush-up of the most basic and important expedition communications tools: the radio and the satellite phone.

HumanEdgeTech Everest Special, part 2: the 2009 High Altitude Package HET’s trademark is software and hardware bundled in ultra-light comms packages. Since 2002, more than 700 expeditions have used the CONTACT software, PDA and sat phone solution: over 20 on Everest only last year. Check out a rerun of the system, with some news for 2009.

2009 HumanEdgeTech Everest Special, part 3: High-speed Internet and Base Camp solutions for a slow economy Climbers’ and outfitters’ chances to get a bite of the spending bill are as slim as the ridge to Shisha’s main summit in a bad year. Fret not: HET’s cost-cut 8848 high-speed stimulus package includes Wideye (dropping the price by more than 50%), low-cost solid state mini laptops and the smart P50 to power it all.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 16.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, February 04

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) On Broad Peak, at least two weeks of bad weather have been forecasted, while the chopper with badly needed supplies is a no-show. 

A bleak week on Broad Peak

The weather however keeps pounding the Karakoram giant. Don Bowie and four Pakistani climbers barely managed to leave a gear cache at 7,000meters last Sunday.

On Monday, the skies let up enough to allow the resupply – but the chopper never arrived. “There’s more bad weather forecasted for the next ten days – strong winds and snowfall included,” Artur’s team reported. “There’s nothing to do but wait.”

See movie : Broad Peak – 2008/09 Don, Qadrat, Amin, Ali and Taqi try to push camp 3 higher.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.16.

Przyleciał helikopter.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Przyleciał helikopter. 04.02.2009

Do bazy przyleciał  dzisiaj ( 4.02.2009r) helikopter . Wyprawa przez krótkie chwile miała fizyczny kontakt z cywilizacją.  Nie zapomniano o nich. Przeczytajcie o tym w relacji Artura Hajzera.

“Monotonia życia bazowego została dziś przerwana niespodziewaną wizytą wojskowego helikoptera. Mały Eurokopter nie mógł przywieźć nam zbyt dużo ale otrzymaliśmy 50 kg najpotrzebniejszych rzeczy, żywności, sprzętu, części zapasowych do kuchni i generatora.

Wiał bardzo silny wiatr, w porywach do 60km/h i przekonani byliśmy, że śmigło nie da rady, jednak okazało się, że wiatr nie stanowi problemu. Przygotowane przez nas lądowisko okazało się idealne i Don Bowie, który na co dzień jako górski ratownik ma do czynienia z helikopterami przyjął maszynę idealnie. Helikopter siadł oboma płozami, piloci mogli wysiąść z maszyny i zrobić sobie z nami pamiątkowe zdjęcia. Zdaje się, że dla pilotów to nie mniejsza atrakcja niż dla nas -wizyta śmigła w bazie zimowej wyprawy.

Tak więc otrzymaliśmy pierwszą uzupełniającą dostawę. W przesyłce znalazło się 8 filmów pakistańskich i hinduskich z Bollywood. Zamówili je nasi pakistańscy wspinacze. Więc wiemy co w najbliższych dniach będziemy oglądać w naszym bazowym kinie (seanse codziennie o 17.00).

Kucharz Didar cieszy się najbardziej bo ma nowe palniki do kuchni, cukier, mąkę i wiele innych drobiazgów, które były już na wykończeniu. Niestety zapasowa, nowa świeca do generatora okazała się nie taka ale na starej damy jeszcze radę.

Dostaliśmy liny z Polski, 500m 4,5 mm. Zamówiliśmy je tak na wszelki wypadek miesiąc temu jak nasze zaczynały się kończyć – przydadzą się chyba. Mamy takie odcinki do obozu I, w sumie ok. 200m lin, których nie jesteśmy w stanie żadną siłą wyrwać już spod śniegu – powiesimy więc sobie teraz nowe.

Pozdrowienia z bazy – Artur “

Materiał zdjęciowy:

Rozterki …..i myśli kłębiące się w głowie Roberta.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Rozterki …..i myśli kłębiące się w głowie Roberta. 03.02.2009

Robert Szymczak przesłał bardzo szczery tekst. Ocenia położenie wyprawy, dzieli się ze swoimi rozterkami. Ostatnie zdania dowodzą, że nie mają zamiaru się poddać (używa liczby mnogiej). Chcą walczyć do końca. Proszę przeczytajcie:

“To już 43 dzień naszego pobytu na lodowcu pod Broad Peakiem. Przekroczyliśmy już o 5 dni czas, który spędziliśmy z Arturem pod wodzą Krzysztofa Wielickiego pod Nanga Parbat zimą 2006/2007. Z drugiej strony daleko nam do 3 lat spędzonych przez wyprawę Nansena w lodach Arktyki. Za nami 4 wyjścia z bazy w kierunku szczytu, założony obóz III i spory okres treningu cierpliwości. Długi czas pobytu w bazie stymuluje do myślenia, pojawia się coraz więcej pytań i wątpliwości.

Czy nasza aklimatyzacja wypracowana niecały miesiąc temu wytrzyma próbę ataku szczytowego, który zapowiada się za jakieś dwa tygodnie? Na to pytanie trudno odpowiedzieć. Z jednej strony przebywamy na 4700m i czujemy się bardzo dobrze, spaliśmy już na 7000m więc zadanie domowe odrobione, kolejne wyjścia w góry mogą wyssać z nas energię i motywację do dobrego jednego lub dwóch ataków szczytowych. Z drugiej strony jednak….

Czy czekanie na dobra pogodę zimą nie jest próbą oszukania zimy w Karakorum? Może trzeba wyjść i zawalczyć przy wietrze 100km/h? Czy my czasem nie zasłaniamy się czekaniem na dobra pogodę, a tak naprawdę nie potrafimy podjąć męskiej decyzji? Czy raczej przemawia za nami zdrowy rozsądek budowany na doświadczeniu i prognozach pogody? Ograniczyliśmy już nasze oczekiwania z 4 dni bardzo dobrej pogody do 2 dni znośnej aury powyżej 7000m.

Czy szef, koleżanki i koledzy z pracy wyrozumiale patrzą na przedłużanie się swoistego masochizmu ich kolegi, który może mieć wpływ na ich plany urlopowe?

Stawka jest wysoka, pierwsze 8000 zimą w Karakorum. Nie zamierzamy wymaszerować stąd bez szczytu, lub dobrej próby zawalczenia o niego. Żaden atak rozpaczy nie wchodzi w rachubę!!! Na szczęście zima kończy się 21 Marca. Pozostało 46 dni potencjalnej walki z Szerokim Szczytem. Istnieje nieodwołalny deadline a dealine’y działają na mnie motywująco. Robert Szymczak”

Życzymy im wytrwałości, niech cierpliwość ich nie opuszcza !

Materiał zdjęciowy:

Zaklinanie pogody.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Zaklinanie pogody. 03.02.2009

Wszyscy jesteśmy w bazie. Don i Quadrat jako ostatni,po nocy w obozie II, wrócili wczoraj do bazy. Dziś pogoda pod psem, żadnej widoczności i wieje. Prowadzimy energiczne i liczne konsultacje meteorologiczne. Szukamy dwóch dni pogody (oczekiwania nasze spadły z 4-ch dni);  zakładamy, że do obozu III “doczołgamy” się prawie w każdych warunkach (wiatr do 80 km/h) no a potem potrzebne są właśnie dwa dni. Nasz przyjaciel Karl Gabl z Insbrucka, który teraz już codziennie robi dla nas prognozy, szuka tych dwóch dni intensywnie. Mamy nadzieję, że Karl coś wyczaruje choś wstępne komunikaty nie napawają optymizmem.

Materiał zdjęciowy:

Doszli ale nie przenieśli. Zapowiada się sztorm.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Doszli ale nie przenieśli. Zapowiada się sztorm. 01.02.2009

Grupie  5-ciu nie udało się przenieść o 200 m wyżej obozu III. Doszli, o godz 13, do istniejącego  na 7000 m obozu- depozytu. Wiał silny wiatr, widoczność była ograniczona. Zostawili ładunki i rozpoczęli odwrót do bazy. Don z Quadrat Ali zanocowali w obozie II by utrwalić aklimatyzację. Trójka pakistańskich wspinaczy wróciła przed wieczorem do bazy. Na najbliższe 10 dni zła prognoza pogody: silne wiatry(sztorm) z opadami śniegu. Pozostaje czekanie.  Mimo nienajgorszej pogody helikopter dzisiaj też nie przyleciał .

Pogoda łaskawa- świeci słońce.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Pogoda łaskawa- świeci słońce. 31.01.2009

Dzisiaj (sobota, 31.01.2008r.) w bazie zero stopni, lekki wiatr z południa, błękitne niebo. Helikopter jednak nie przyleciał. Don Bowie i czwórka pakistańczyków , wyszli rano z bazy i dotarli po południu do obozu II. Jutro (niedziela) zamierzają przesunąć obóz III o 200m wyżej i wrócic do bazy. Byle pogoda im na to pozwoliła. W górze,na 8000m, rano wieje wiatr z prędkością ok. 40 km/h, w południe 50-70 km/h. Artur z Robertem zostali w bazie. Wykorzystują dobrą pogodę na prace w domu i zagrodzie. Pranie, wietrzenie, porządki w namiotach. Po zajściu słońca sielanka się skończyła, zrobiło się minus 20 stopni C.

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 15. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.15. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Antarctica is closing; and with that all eyes are on Himalaya where two expeditions hope to make history any time now.

Also Aconcagua has more or less folded; following a season deadlier than usual but not without a number of triumphs. Over in Europe, Swiss Ueli Steck broke another classic North face speed record – on Matterhorn in 1 hour 56 minutes from bottom top.

A very hard row around Antarctica has kicked off and there’s also a number of interesting news from Space.

Makalu Some explorers worry little about failing tech; not so Simone Moro. “This is really a disaster, causing big damage our sponsors,” he fumed before at last, the backup modem arrived. Reason for the holdup according to Simone – porters got stuck (read: drunk) for 6 days in Sidua! As for the climb – a two-day trip to Makalu La was on this weekend before the summit push.

Broad Peak They hoped to buy some gas from a military camp. 5-ft snow made the estimated 3-hour trip longer than expected and on arrival the mil camp at Concordia’s glacier junction turned out empty, sending the climbers back to BC empty-handed for another 7 hours. The men shot some footage, directed by Robert – now Robert Vader – as part of their new sci-fi series ‘StarWspin’. Don Bowie also offered a detailed description of why Karakoram winter climbing is worse than Minnesota.

New routes, variations and record speed ascents After soloing the Colton-Macintyre route on the North face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 21 minutes on December 28th, Swiss Ueli Steck broke another classic North face speed record January 13th – on Matterhorn. Ueli climbed the Schmidt route (TD/ED, 1100m) in 1 hour 56 minutes from bottom to summit. The Huber Brothers, teaming up with Stefan Siegrist, bagged two new routes at Antartica’s Queen Maud Land. Alex, Thomas and Stephan completed the first climb on Ulvetanna’s West buttress – Sound of silence (6c, A2, 850m, 60º); and the first route opened on Holtanna’s West face, Eiszei (6b, A4, 750m). Also on Holtanna, the team achieved the first free-climbing ascent of Skywalk (6a, 450m), on the peak’s North buttress. From Patagonia, Camilo López and Anna Pfaff report a new variation on Aguja Guillomet. Fitz Roy is next.

The spirit of it all: the Fiend, the Pole, and top ten reasons why high-altitude climbers climb A faded expedition t-shirt from the American 1999 Everest/K2 expedition reminds of a time when climbing was more difficult, but less serious. Read the back print and more from a bygone time.

Popular Re-run & ExWeb correction: ECUADORIAN Santiago Quintero Folks in South America are very proud of their emerging mountaineers. When ExWeb wrote that Santiago Quintero has set off on a crossing of 35 Andes summits in preps for K2 in May; a large number of emails notified us that he is from Ecuador – not Brazil. All the hoopla called for a re-run of an interview ExWeb made with the mountaineer last spring.

Aconcagua 2008/09 Season’s end Chronicle ExWeb’s contributor, Brazilian writer and chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto Peron compiled a season’s end report from Aconcagua – a favorite pre-Everest destination. It’s sobering reading; but not without highlights.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 15.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, January 26

Polar Bears by Don Bowie

(Don Bowie’s website – Posted 26 Jan 2009 12:00 AM )

The sound of snow falling on my tent is soft and soothing. It feels good to be snug inside my sleeping bag – this feathered zeppelin – at the end of each day. I usually get Didar (our cook) to fill up one of my Nalgene bottles with boiling water, which I stuff into my sleeping bag – at least until it gets a little too hot. That’s right, I said a little too hot. I can thank my Feathered Friends -60C Snowy Owl sleeping bag for that. Still, despite this short period of nightly comfort, even inside my tent the thermometer reads minus -25C and falling; and unlike the -25C in Minnesota, there’s nowhere except a sleeping bag to get warm. Nowhere! And when we’re on the mountain…well…

Many people would hate all this winter climbing stuff: cold hands and feet, biting wind, no refuge, plus the icy, windblown slopes of our objective looming above…waiting. The winds have been howling now for over two weeks straight, the constant roar through the clouds reminds us that base camp is the only survivable place right now. Our skin is dry and cracked around our fingernails. Our clothes are dirty and stinky. Everything is covered with ice. Yet somehow I find comfort here, feeling relaxed and appreciative, despite all the discomforts. At home I can satiate my discomfort easily; with the flick of a switch a heater comes on, the push of a button and the room lights up. Heck, I could KILL a Big Mac right now, which, at least in North America, at any time and place I am only 3 minutes from getting -  if I were so inclined…;).
Brandon in front of our Artic objective photo by Don Bowie

Some years ago I embarked upon my first major expedition to an extremely remote place – a 1500 meter high unclimbed tower in the Canadian Arctic, rising straight out of the frozen sea ice. I would attempt to ascend the huge, granite monolith, with a climbing partner from California, Brandon. Even then we had a small solar panel and a satellite phone – but it didn’t work very well. My girlfriend at the time had a cow the entire time we were gone…but I guess some of the circumstances behind said “cow” were understandable: You see, one of the only times I actually managed to get the stupid satellite phone to work just happened to coincide with a few polar bears waltzing into camp. In the arctic, polar bears were our worst fear, as they were almost as common as rabbits in California, and wouldn’t hesitate to eat one of us as an afternoon snack. So, just as the bears came towards camp, the satellite phone went dead, which just so happened to be during the very brief phone call with my ex. I think the last words I spoke to my ex-girlfriend were something like, “Oh, gotta go. Oh, no. Polar bears are………..”

Thing is, the satellite phone didn’t work again for THREE WEEKS. In the meantime, all manner of nightmarish thoughts were going through my ex-girlfriend’s head; one being that her boyfriend was now reduced to small, brown, steaming poop-piles, scattered across miles of frozen sea ice. (Before I left the States I tried to calm her fears by telling her that she didn’t have to worry, because, while I knew that I couldn’t outrun a polar bear, I could outrun Brandon – which was all I’d have to do. Somehow that didn’t help her?) Anyhow, it just so happened that my ex’s well-to-do family was very connected in big business, politics, and the upper echelons of the US Military. In fact, her uncle was a former Chief of Staff at one of the prestigious military schools in America. So after our extended silence following the polar-bear satellite call, her uncle made a few phone calls, and soon (to my understanding) something of an entire division of US Air National Guard troops were ramping up to assist the Canadian Army in their search for us – or at least for some steaming poop-piles in the remote Canadian Arctic.

About a month prior to this whole fiasco, my partner and I tried to hire 2 Inuit hunters to pack up a few dogsleds with our supplies and take us to this point on the map. They refused, saying it was too far for the dogs and that people never go to this place. We insisted, and after a few more dollars thrown into the mix, they agreed to take us. But instead of dogs pulling the dogsleds, they would use snowmobiles because of the extreme distance. One of the sleds was then loaded with fuel drums just for the snowmobiles. We didn’t disapprove of this plan, thinking that it would be a little faster trip, which it was – but, also MUCH colder. I remember sitting on the loaded haul bags tied to the dogsled, traversing over the broken sea ice, shaking with cold, my goggles completely frosted over, my toes and fingers completely numb. Every 4 or 5 seconds the sled would slam into ice bulges. Each time it did, we were literally rag-dolled on and off the sleds, along with the rest of our gear, slamming into this and banging into that – all the while absolutely freezing my butt off in the -45C temperatures…for 5 days…nearly 400 kilometers. This was (and still remains) pretty much the worst period of physical suffering I have ever experienced in my life…ahem…at least until the ride home, when only ONE snowmobile and sled showed up to take us back to the village – which, when finally loaded, looked like the “Grinch Who Stole Christmas” sled after robbing Whoville. And, if it were possible, the trip back was even more uncomfortable, due to the frozen polar bear meat we had to sit on the entire way.

It has been said of some people, that the only time these individuals see any moderation in their lives, is when they pass it by on their way from one extreme to another. At times, this adage deeply resonates with me; although, even at the extremes there is joy to be found, contentment to be embraced. Many times in my life I have chosen endeavors where, for long periods of time, I have been either cold, hungry, hurt, tired, lonely, frustrated, or all of the above. But, it is not enough for me to merely endure these experiences, or, that they point me away to my life at home, and remind me of the “good” things – like the warm, fed, comfortable, rested, content times spent with family and friends. If this were the only benefit of enduring hard times, to remind us of the good, explorers and adventurers such as myself might be best described as those affected with a most severe form of Attention Deficit Disorder, or at very least, slow learners. (No comment.) I believe that it is in the explorer’s nature to not merely endure or survive, but also to thrive. I think that we all possess a measure of this “thrivability,” and most people have more of it than they will ever know, or will perhaps come close to finding out.

Here, on another expedition, I find myself on another adventure, rife with its own brand of suffering, but I count myself among the fortunate who are able to test their “thrivabilty.”

To thrive in our hearts, when we can’t feel our hands….

(….hence, the sloppy typing and spelling errors.)

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.15.

Tak mocno jeszcze nie wiało!!!

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Tak mocno jeszcze nie wiało!!!. 30.01.2009

Tak mocno jeszcze nie wiało! – maszty namiotów w bazie drżały pod naporem wiatru i ledwo przetrwały. Wiatr nie przejmował się zapowiadanym „oknem pogodowym” i wiał z dużo większą prędkością niż to przewidzieli synoptycy. Tak było wczoraj.

Dzisiaj, ciemne chmury przykrywają niebo, ale z wysokości 5500 m, przesunęły się wyżej na 7000 m i dzięki temu nieśmiałe promienie słońca zagrzewają do dalszej walki o górę (bo o ogrzaniu nie ma mowy). Wiatr wieje słabiej niż wczoraj.

Jutro, (w sobotę) tzw. zespół techniczny w składzie: Don Bowie i Quadrat Ali, ma dotrzeć do obozu II. Jego głównym zadaniem jest dotarcie w niedzielę do obozu III i przesunięcie go 200 m wyżej. Bez noclegu, jeszcze tego samego dnia mają wrócić z nowego obozu III do bazy… Zadanie nie będzie łatwe, bo zespół będzie obciążony namiotem, jedzeniem i butlami z gazem (ładunek mają zostawić w obozie III) . Jeśli się to uda, atak szczytowy będzie miał większe szanse powodzenia. Intensywna niedziela dla Dona i Quadrat Ali, ma zakończyć się w bazie.

… Z utęsknieniem wpatrujemy się w niebo w nadziei na lepszą pogodę i nadlatujące ludzkie istoty, które potwierdzą, że nie tylko pod Broad Peakiem jest życie…

Dziś 2 metry nad bazą koło zatoczył helikopter i piloci pokiwali nam “pozdrawiająco” co znaczyć mogło:

- za bardzo wieje, nie możemy zrzucić ładunku

albo

- przylecimy jutro

albo

- sorry, nie wiemy kiedy znowu przylecimy

Się zobaczy, ale jak nie przylecą jutro to zaczynamy pić gorzką kawę, i oglądamy na dvd te same filmy po raz drugi. Poza tym trzymamy się koziny i rezygnujemy z drobiu.

relacja Artura Hazjera z bazy pod BP

Do sąsiada po cukier.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Do sąsiada po cukier. 24.01.2009

W czwartek(22.01) członkowie  wyprawy wybrali się z sasiedzką wizytą do najbliżej żyjacych ludzkich istot czyli żołnierzy z posterunku pakistańskiej armii, położonego na skrzyżowaniu lodowców Baltoro i Goldwin Austin. Miejsce to nazywa się Concordia. Powodów odwiedzin było kilka: pożyczenie benzyny- bo się kończy, może jakiegoś żarcia jeśli sąsiedzi będą łaskawi. Ważne było też przetarcie szlaku do miejsca gdzie żyją ludzie i mają kontakt z cywilacją ponieważ przylatuje do nich czasami helikopter. Liczyli na 3 godziny marszu w jedną stronę. Droga do Concordii okazała się ciężką wyrypą w śniegu po ……pas. Do ludzi nie dotarli. Posterunku na Concordii nie było. Jest prawdopodobnie ze 2 godziny marszu dalej. Musieli zawrócić. Po 7 godzinach wrócili z powrotem do bazy. Proszę, zobaczcie relację filmową z tej eskapady.

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 14. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.14. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

“It was one of the best stories I ever read at ExplorersWeb,” wrote a climber about the Vlado Plulik special last week.

Other news: Antarctica is closing, Erden is back out at sea; Piolet d’Or is due for a comeback; there is fast going on Makalu; and a summit push on Broad Peak might be brewing.

Vlado Plulik update: a family’s search for truth about the Baltoro Express Following the accident on Broad Peak last summer, Vlado Plulik’s family have done a tremendous job piecing together the events leading to his death, posting on Vlado’s website a number of interviews with climbers and experts. Three of Dodo’s climbing mates have been left to descend alone, without adequate gear, close to 8000+ meters. Two of them died. The Slovak Mountaineering Association deemed Dodo’s G1 and BP summit evidence “inaccurate and misleading” and his description of events related to Vlado’s fate “a grave violation of the ethical and sport performance principles of the mountaineering association.” Check in for the full story at ExplorersWeb.

Piolet d’Or brought back to life A revamped international Piolet d’Or is scheduled for April 24/25th. The new president of GHM (Groupe de Haute Montagne/High Mountain Group) Christian Trommsdorff is in charge of the re-launch. “The prize will award most of all ingenuity, climbing innovation and new routes opened in light style,”he told Montagna.org. “Election will be based on style, spirit of exploration, the team’s self-sufficiency, technical skills, the route’s possibilities and risks, efficiency on the use of resources, transparency in reports, respect for team-mates and crew, and the example set for the future generations.”

Kwande Lho: Summit and descent “We rappelled twice into a couloir, then downclimbed to the mouth of ice drainage. Exhaustion peaked… we argued…” A great climb and a thrilling debrief: last week the last of the Kwande Lho reports went up.

Broad Peak Qadrat and Don Bowie revisited the slopes last week to free ropes and restore camp 1, flattened by a recent storm. Above, Amin reported that Camp 2 is fine. “In the wise but simple words of Forrest Gump: ‘Good. Just one less thing’,” Don concluded, adding “keep a watch on next week’s weather…today (Friday) is the first day of sunshine in 12 days.”

Makalu Since they reached BC, Denis and Simone have wasted little time. Friday they hoped to reach 7000 meters, taking advantage of a spell of good weather.

Frostbitten Quintero for an Andes crossing before K2 In spite of extensive frostbite from an Aconcagua winter climb, Brazilian Santiago Quintero summited Makalu without supplementary oxygen last year. Now the climber has set off on a crossing of 35 summits in the Andes – in preps for K2 in May.

Makalu winter history addition Last week, Argentinean Marcelo Espejo added more attempts to Simone Moro’s Makalu winter history, including a British attempt in 1981 where 6 climbers led by Ron Rutland reached 7350 meters. As for the attempt made by Polish Krzysztof Wielicki, Anna Czerwiñska, Ryszard Pawlowski and Belgian Ingrid Bayens. “The expedition took place not in 1998, but in 1990-91,” Marcelo noted. Brazilian chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto confirmed the correction, and added: “Wielicki attempted to climb Makalu’s West Pillar in two winter seasons: 1990/1991 and 2000/2001.” Marcelo added even more winter expeditions on Makalu but Rodrigo Granzotto wrote these were not within calendar winter.

Permit mates wanted A Koream 5-member team going to Manaslu, Annapurna and Dhaulagiri this spring season on the normal routes are looking for climbers to share permits with. Check in with Ang Karma Sherpa of WindhorseTrekking at: winhorse@wlink.com.np.

Attention trekkers, climbers and Sherpas in Khumbu: have you seen Julian?Julian Wynne, 32, was last seen sitting on a rock by the path to the Gokyo-side of Chola pass on December 22 last year. Julian has not collected any of his belongings from his lodge in Namche and hasn’t signed out of the national park. The family has contacted authorities and one member has flown to Nepal in an effort to retrace Julian’s steps. A Facebook group is set up called “Find Julian Wynne” which Julian’s sister is urging everyone to join and to invite all their friends to join. There is also additional info at Trekinfo.com.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
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** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 14.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, January 22

Broad Peak – 2008/09 star wspin – movie like a Star Wars.

This movie has been made like a Star Wars….

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.14.

Wytrwałość w cenie.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Wytrwałość w cenie. 23.01.2009

Po 12. dniach złej, sztormowej pogody, na jeden dzień ( 20.01),  w okolicach Broad Peak’a pokazało się słońce i ucichł wiatr. Wykorzystała to wyprawa. (Patrz relacje  z 19 i 20  stycznia) Ale się skończyło. Przyszły chmury, wieje silny wiatr, a w wysokich partiach huragan. Kiedy  pokaże się następne „okno” dobrej pogody ? – nie wiadomo. Do końca stycznia meteorolodzy nie przewidują takowego. Co będzie w lutym- znak zapytania. Meteorolodzy  nie tworzą tak dalekich, dokładnych prognoz, chcą być wiarygodni.

Uczestnicy wyprawy zdają ciężki egzamin z wytrwałości. Góra uczy ich pokory.

Artur Hajzer napisał : „To trzeba wyczekać ze spokojem pokerzysty i wtedy sukces pewny. Po prostu nie można się denerwować, niecierpliwić,  przede wszystkim nie można popełnić falstartu i po drugie- nie można się poddać bez powodu, tylko dlatego, że w bazie nudno.

Jutro w czwartek 22 -chcemy pójść w dół naszego lodowca Goldwin Austin do   miejsca gdzie krzyżuje się  z lodowcem Baltoro. To miejsce skrzyżowania nazywa się Concordia i jest tam posterunek wojskowych. To ok 3h w jedną stronę. Idziemy z wizytą bo nam się benzyna do generatora kończy. Klęski z tego nie ma bo możemy działać w oparciu o baterie słoneczne.

Z niektórymi zapasami żarcia też już cieńko; ma dolecieć helikopter aleniedolatuje. .Dowództwo w pułku się zmieniło i rozmowy są trudniejsze.

Może to śmigło doleci ? Na razie sami widzimy, że pogoda dla niego trudna.

Szkoda, że nie przyleciał we wtorek jak byliśmy w c2 ? no ale to już poza nami. Liny, które mi wysłaliście są w Skardu na lotnisku helikopterów, gotowe do przerzutu  do bazy, razem z resztą sprawunków. Głównie to żarcie ale też papier toaletowy, świeca do generatora i takie tam.

A swoją drogą tu w bazie ciężko bo zimno, śpiwory zaśnieżone, rano wilgotne, nie zawsze mają  ochotę do wieczora wyschnąć. Ciuchy już brudne i śmierdzące, śpiwory też. Co na początku zostało wybudowane i zorganizowane już się sypie. Moje legowisko się zapada w lodzie, latryna przepełniona, namiot prysznicowy zdewastowany, pojedynczych rzeczy brakuje, no i ta nuda  -łatwo nie jest. Ale tkwimy w postanowieniu żeby wytrzymać, nikt się nie skarży.”

Broad Peak w konwencji Science Fiction.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Broad Peak w konwencji Science Fiction. 22.01.2009

Otrzymaliśmy odcinek filmowego serialu  S.F.,  w reżyserii Roba Vadera.  Młody, piękny i zdolny reżyser a także pisarz, o czym mogliście się Państwo przekonać,  akcję swojego filmu umiejscowił w  otoczeniu dziwnie przypominającym Karakorum i Broad Peak .

Cieszy nas bardzo, że ten wielce obiecujący twórca, nie gustuje w horrorach.

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 13. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.13. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 13.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, January 20

“Good! Just one less thing.“  by Don Bowie

(Don Bowie’s website – Posted 01/20/09, 1:32 pm Pakistan time)
Hoping to take advantage of a few hours of storm reprieve, Qadrat and I left mid-morning yesterday (Jan 19th) for Camp 1. My plan was to stay the night there and then climb to Camp 2 today, sleeping one night there and carrying my share of the summit push supplies, then returning to Base Camp to wait out the next spell of bad weather. During our ascent to Camp 1, Qadrat and I spent much time and energy digging and pulling out the ropes buried under 3 feet of deep, hard, Styrofoam-y, snow – a strenuous process that left both of us a little sore in the shoulders.

The final few meters below Camp 1 consist of loose, low-angled scree – but you don’t want to drop something, fall, or kick off any rocks here, for any such bombs end up showering the lower slopes. But yesterday we used little caution on these slopes, since we were the only ones on the mountain; Artur, Robert, Amin, Ali, and Taqi, would follow up the next day carrying their supplies to Camp 2 and returning to base camp that same day (today).

Yesterday, as we approached Camp 1 on these loose slopes, Qadrat picked up a piece of silver tent pole and showed it to me. “Rats,” I said. A few steps later, another bent and broken tent pole was found. Then another. By the time we reached Camp 1, we had a handful of broken tent poles and pieces, and could now see why – our tent had been destroyed by the wind. Fortunately, most of our gear and supplies were safely and neatly stashed in canvas bags and left beside the tent. The depot bags were still there, with all the contents inside. My plan to spend the night was now defunct, so we produced another canvas bag which we had just carried up from base camp, filled it with the loads on our backs, and headed down.

I’ve just heard from Amin via radio from Camp 2 that the tent there is fine. In the wise but simple words of Forrest Gump, “Good. Just one less thing.”

Keep a watch on next week’s weather…today is the first day of sunshine in 12 days.

Don

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  Don Bowie’s website -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.13.

Okno pogodowe w C2 – 2 relacje.

Relacja : Dona Bowie
Okno pogodowe w C2 – 2 relacje. 20.01.2009

Przedstawiam dwie relacje od uczestników wyprawy pierwsza od Dona Bowie, który dzień wcześniej wyszedł z Quadratem do obozu I:

“Chciałem wykorzystać okno pogodowe i z Quadratem wyszliśmy do obozu I. Miałem plan, żeby przenocować w obozie I i następnego dnia wspiąć się do C2, tam zanocować i przetransportować ładunki wyżej, a następnie wrócić do bazy i czekać na następne dni ładnej pogody. Razem z Quadratem straciliśmy, w drodze do C1, sporo czasu i energii na wykopywaniu i wyrywaniu spod śniegu zamarzniętych lin, 3 kroki w głębokim śniegu, ciężko, odkopywanie ze śniegu – to był żmudny proces z lekkim bólem w ramionach.

Następnego dnia Artur, Robert, Amin, Ali i Taqi ruszyli w nasze ślady, aby donieść swoje ładunki do obozu II i tego samego dnia wracali do bazy. Wczoraj jak podeszli do C1 nad luźnym zboczem, Quadrat podniósł kawałek srebrnego masztu namiotu i pokazał go mnie: “Szczur” – powiedział. Przez cały czas byliśmy w pobliżu C1, mieliśmy kłopot ze złamanym kawałkiem masztu  i teraz widzieliśmy dlaczego – nasz namiot był zniszczony przez wiatr. Na szczęście, sprzęt i ładunki były bezpieczne i starannie ułożone w płótnie bagażowym obok lewego namiotu. Skład bagażu, z całą zawartością w środku, był nieruszony. Mój plan spędzenia nocy nie wypalił, więc półtno z bagażem znieśliśmy do bazy – nasze plecy obciążone całym ładunkiem.

Przez radio powiedziałem do Amina  z obozu II, że tamten namiot jest już skończony. W mądrych, ale prostych słowach Forresta Gump`a: “Dobrze. Już jedna rzecz mniej”.

Zegarek nastawiam na następny tydzień pogody…z 12 dni dzisiaj jest pierwszy dzień słoneczny”.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Okno pogodowe w C2 – 2 relacje. 20.01.2009

Artur, kierownik wyprawy, tak relacjonuje wydarzenia tego dnia:

“Wtorkowy wypad do C2 zakończony sukcesem. Do drugiego obozu wchodziliśmy 8 godzin, a zejście zajęło nam 3h.

Jesteśmy zadowoleni, że obóz II przeszedł bojowy chrzest w ekstremalnych warunkach i pozostał na swoim miejscu. Namiot Yeti’s Recidence stoi nienaruszony – inaczej niż Denali w C1 (obóz I), który nie dał rady huraganom. Grubsze maszty i zewnętrzne ich umieszczenie zrobiły swoje – to namiot „pancerny”.

Dzisiejsza środa znowu niepogoda, szleje huragan – tak więc wyjście wtorkowe odbyło się w jedynym możliwym terminie.

Szli z nami nasi pakistańscy wspinacze – są kondycyjnie rewelacyjni. Byli w C2 (obozie II) – aż wstyd się przyznać – przed nami.

Zrobiły się z tego polsko-pakistańskie zawody, które przegraliśmy. Robert walczył o honor ale do Pakistańczyków zabrakło mu ok. godziny.

Przekonaliśmy się, że podane prognozy są dokładne i sprawdziły się na razie w 100%.

Jednodniowe okno pogodowe było, a teraz znowu zostaje oczekiwanie…”

Materiał zdjęciowy:

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 12. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.12. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 12.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, January 19

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Broad Peak climbers are grooming themselves for the big day.

Broad Peak: Frozen (solid) days

Don´t miss a funny video posted on Artur’s and Don’s websites, featuring Pakistani Didar detailing the realities of life in a winter Karakoram Base Camp.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.12.

Obóz pierwszy doszczętnie zniszczony.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Obóz pierwszy doszczętnie zniszczony. 19.01.2009

Don i Quadrat wyrywali liny spod, twardego jak beton, śniegu…lecz na niewiele się to zdało. Namiot w obozie I nie przetrwał, bo połamane maszty przedziurawiły podłogę. Chociaż góra pokazała pazur, jednak nie zgasiła wiary himalaistów w to, że mimo piekielnie trudnej pogody, da się ją zdobyć; a ich słowa zdają się potwierdzać optymistyczne nastroje: – Nie użalamy się, bo w c1 już chyba nie będziemy sypiać.

Jutro wszyscy idziemy do C2 . Mamy nadzieję, że tam namiot przetrwał, bo ma grubsze maszty na zewnątrz namiotu.

Niezła wyrypa się zapowiada – 1600 m przewyższenia – do góry damy radę, ale powrót będzie pewnie na “rzęsach”.

Himalaiści nie mają w planach noclegu w obozie II, a jedynie przetransportowanie do niego śpiworów, jedzenia, gazu i tlenu potrzebnego „na atak”. Jeszcze tego samego dnia chcą wrócić do bazy.

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 11. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.11. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

It has been a very busy month at ExWeb. Irish/Alaskan Gerard McDonnell (K2, post-mortem) was awarded Best of ExplorersWeb 2008 for one of the most heroic rescue attempts in the history of Himalaya mountaineering.

Other winners were (2 – 8 ) Inaki’s rescue team (Annapurna), Tomek and Wacek (solo sail around the world against the wind), Erden Eruc (longest row), Babanov & Afanasiev (new 8000+ routes), Alberto Peruffo (freedom), Ivan Vallejo (14, 8000ers w/o 02) and Tara’s Arctic Voyage. Special mention went to Shparo & Smolin (North Pole winter), Valery (Base Jump), Miura & Sherchan (Everest) and Burwick (Ocean).

And there were no less than 2 Year-In-Reviews; one with special focus on China and Everest.

Meanwhile, other adventure was full throttle – mainly on Antarctica and in winter Himalaya.

Winter Manaslu: It’s over “We spent four days trying to find a safe route through the icefall between C1 and C2 – to no avail,” the Czech team reported. “We managed to reach ‘only’ 5850 meter above sea level before calling it quits.” The climbers celebrated New Year’s Eve in Lapubesi, on the trek back to civilization.

Simone and Denis in Makalu BC A chopper airlifted Simone Moro and Denis Urubko to Makalu BC on Friday. “All we need now is 3-4 days of decent weather,” Denis told RussianClimb.

Broad Peak – summit push next The Polish/Canuck trio worked fast on Broad Peak. All high camps are set and next attempt will go for the summit.

Kwande Lho: Ines and Cory bag summit “And then, with all the anticlimactic energy in the world culminating into a single second, we are on top.” Ines Papert and her photographer bagged Kwande Lho in an all-or-nothing 4 day ascent of the peak’s frigid north face.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 11.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, January 15

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) On Broad Peak Artur, Robert and Don are watching the clouds: a forecasted weather window next week may be too short for a summit bid.

Winter Broad Peak: Waiting out the storm

“Weather conditions on Broad Peak are rough at the moment, so the climbers are in BC” Artur Hajzer’s home team just told ExplorersWeb. “Forecasts show better conditions for January 21-22th – but that’s all. The team may not go up in such a short weather window. However, they have not yet made up their minds.”

Artur has posted more videos on his HiMountain website. Find them here and here.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.11.

Nie wszystko zamrożone – zostało jeszcze poczucie humoru. Zima w bazie – relacja filmowa.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Zima w bazie – relacja filmowa. 15.01.2009

W Himalajach jest teraz, w skali roku, najbardziej mroźno. Widać to na każdym kroku, przy każdej czynności wykonywanej w bazie. Lód otacza wszystko…

W Himalajach panuje teraz siarczysty mróz.. Termometr w bazie pokazuje minus 20 stopni Celsjusza w dzień, a w nocy minus 40 stopni.  Widać to na każdym kroku, przy każdej czynności wykonywanej w bazie. Lód otacza wszystko. Niskie temperatury nie zamroziły jednak poczucia humoru himalaistów. W ekstremalnie trudnych warukach wykonują zwykłe życiowe czynności i próbują realizować pasje niezwiązane bezpośrednio ze zdobywaniem gór : podglądanie ptaków i zbieranie minerałów. Ciekawe, z jakim rezultatem. Zobaczcie to w relacji filmowej:

Rok 20009 – trzecia relacja oddalona o 3 lata świetlne.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Rok 20009 – trzecia relacja oddalona o 3 lata świetlne. 13.01.2009

…Nad bazą wysłanników Organizacji Poszukiwaczy Zaginionej Anny zapadł przydymiony mrok (Fot. 1, Fot. 2). Nad Szerokim Świetlistym Szczytem panują trudne do egzystencji jakiegokolwiek życia warunki, silne podmuchy atmosferyczne o sile do 160km/h, temperatury  poniżej -400C, ciemność z którą walczy jasna strona nieznanej planety (Fot. 3). Brak obecności ogrzewającego i rozjaśniającego ciemności promieniowania gwiezdnego nie przytłacza i nie demotywuje uczestników gwiezdnych poszukiwań.

Silny sygnał XY zarejestrowany przez odbiornik III oraz nadzieja na niedługie spotkanie wytęsknionych istot nazywanych kobietami na wysokości powyżej 8000m powoduje, iż zespół trwa w gotowości.

Przykładem poprzednich ekspedycji, próbujemy jak najwierniej przypomnieć naszym zmysłom czasy, w których silny sygnał XY oraz pierwiastek kobiecy egzystowały w zgodzie w czwartym układzie solarnym. W tym celu co wieczór szeregowy Didarius przygotowuje każdemu z nas litrową butelkę wypełnioną gorącym roztopionym kurzem kosmiczny (Fot. 4.). Opieka nad tym litrem ciepłej cieczy to trening przed spotkaniem z niewiastami. Butelka ogrzewa wyziębione ciało, pozwala spokojnie zasnąć, bezinteresownie oddaje swoje ciepło ale w zamian wymaga atencji. Pozostawiona samotnie ulega zamianie w lodowate ciało stałe, które w warunkach Karakorumnii jest prawie nie możliwe do roztopienia i ogrzania (Fot. 5). Po kilku pozostawieniach do zalodzenia butelka ginie w mrokach nieznanych (Fot. 6).

Tylko czy ten trening wystarczy by odnalezione kobiety utrzymać na statku i dowieźć  do planety ojców?

Rob Vader.

Materiał zdjęciowy:

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 10. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.10. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 part 10.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak led by Artur Hajzer , the team :  Robert Szymczak and Don Bowie  from Canada.

The team has two high altitude porters; one is Qudrat Ali, Simone Moro’s climbing partner on Broad Peak in winter 2007/08.

HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – in review :

2009, January 12

(MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net) Artur, Robert and Don are back from C3. Following only 18 days on Broad Peak, the team is ready for a summit push: after the storm, that is.

Broad Peak: Team back from C3 – ready to face the storm, and then attempt the summit

“We’re Back from Camp 3 at 7000 meters, resting in base camp and waiting for a spell of good weather to try for…dare I say,” Don Bowie reported earlier today. “In 18 days since our arrival, we have spent 10 days of activity on the mountain – a remarkable feat for even a summer expedition. We take our fast progress in stride, committed to the long haul, knowing that long spells of bad weather and other challenges lay ahead.”

“We now face the first long spell of stormy weather – a time for rest, replenishment, and some base camp musings and ridiculousness – so expect a few of these over the next week or two,” the Canadian climber added. “

Don’s thoughts on winter 8000ers climbing

A seasoned Himalayan climber on his first winter expedition to a Baltoro giant, Don reflects on what it means to climb in Karakoram winter:

“Personally, I feel content, but most of all, I feel grateful to be on another expedition in the high mountains,” Don stated. “This is one of many winter trips for me, but my first expedition to the big mountains in the cold season. Some things are different than climbing in the Karakoram in summer, others are the same. The most obvious differences are the cold and the remoteness. It is both amazing and daunting to have the Baltoro all to ourselves.”

“Climbing between the higher camps, I find that my fingers and toes go numb quite frequently, losing sensation sometimes for an hour or more. But, I am not climbing using my warmest gear: I’m saving my down suit for the next push to the summit.” 

“The wind bites immediately at any exposed skin, and I’ve already suffered a little black line of frost nip on my cheek and nose – which should peel off in a few days. Call it my yearly exfoliation, if not a low-class spa treatment. Ahh, the measures we go to for good skin.”

“One of the oddest things I have experienced on this winter expedition is the phenomenon of relative comfort, and how this changes with the immediate environment. After being spat out of the hovering MI-17 (helicopter) on December 23rd, I remember looking at the desolate, windblown, frozen moraine and thinking, “Wow! This is home for a few months. Yeesh!”

“However, after a few weeks of climbing, I now peer down from thousands of feet above, onto that very same spot which our base camp now inhabits, and think, “Hmmm. It would be nice to be in cozy base camp right now.” Cozy base camp? Who in their right mind would look at this place and think “cozy”?”

We are not 3 – but 8 team members

Finally, a word about lesser known team members. “I want to make more clear just exactly who ‘we’ are,” Don wrote. “Most of our images and videos have contained only a portion of the team, for we are not 3, we are 8. Duties on the mountain have been split between 2 or 3 groups at a time, with Artur, Robert, and I climbing together – hence the photos and videos of us. But here are the other team members, whose contributions match or exceed any task our team of 3 has performed.”

“These men, as part of the team, carry loads and establish the route as our equals. They are strong, experienced, and keen to succeed. We consider these men our partners: Qadrat Amin, from Shimshal, age 39; Amin Ullah, from Shimshal, age 36; Muhammad Ali, from Sadpara, age 32; Muhammad Taqi, from Hushe, age 28 and Didar (Cook Extraordinaire), from Hunza, age 30.”

Broad Peak – 2008/09. Jacuzzi in Base Camp video 1.

Broad Peak – 2008/09. Jacuzzi in Base Camp video 2.

* Source : – MountEverest.net/K2Climb.net -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** Previous story :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** Related Links :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak — 2008/09 cz.10.

Baza i kolejne relacje filmowe.

Relacja : Artur Hajzer
Baza i kolejne relacje filmowe, 09.01.2009

Nasi himalaiści teraz są w bazie. Dzięki temu mogą nam przesłać kolejne relacje filmowe z  życia u podnóża góry. Poniżej film instruktażowy o tym, jak zbudować solankę:

Himalajska solanka – film.

Trudne jest bazowe życie,  a poniższy materiały filmowy potwierdza to stwierdzenie. W namiocie zaadoptowanym na łazienkę,  żeby zdecydować się na kąpiel, trzeba być bardzo odpornym na zimno:

Kąpiel w obozie bazowym – film.

* źródła :   -  http://pza.org.pl/ -  http://www.himountain.pl/

** poprzednie posty :

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 9. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.9. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 8. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.8. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 7. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.7. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 6. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.6. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 5. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.5. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 4. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.4. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 3. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.3. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 2. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09 – part 1. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09 – cz.1. /Version english and polish/

- Ice Warriors not give up – HiMountain winter expedition to Broad Peak – 2008/09. HiMountain wyprawa zimowa Broad Peak – 2008/09. /Version english and polish/

*** strony o wyprawach zimowych :

- 2007 Winter Nanga Parbat: It’s over – http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=15523

- Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/

- Polish-Italian winter expedition to Shisha Pangma (8027m), 2005 /Version polish and english/

- Winter Manifesto of Krzysztof Wielicki – Manifest zimowy Krzysztofa Wielickiego /Version polish and english/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

ExplorersWeb 2008 Year in Review Special:

Everest, Tibet and China.

Influence of politics was so massive on mountaineering this year we had to lift Everest out of the regular Year in Review. Yet the events were so remarkable they should not fall into oblivion. Here thus an ExWeb 2008 YIR second edition, with focus Everest, Tibet and China. Regural WIR will resume next Sunday.

We have ommited most names to protect climbers from reprisals. This story is further not about individuals but about issues affecting us all.

Olympic promises

In order to get the Olympic Games, China had promised to fullfill certain conditions: one was unrestricted access for media. Reporters would be allowed to travel freely and interview whom they wished and without state regulated interpreters.

As for climbing, rumors that Mt. Everest would be closed during the Olympic torch were consistently denounced by CMA & CTMA. “China will not limit the number of expeditions in 2008,” Chinese officials said as late as September 4, 2007.

“They [China] have once again assured us that there will be no limitations on Everest, only stricter criteria to fulfill,” confirmed a CTMA spokesman in Nepal on October 3, 2007. “Also, they have once again assured us that there will be no restriction to climbing during the summit push of the Olympic flame,” Tshering said.

On March 7, 2008, a soft loan was issued by China to Nepal of $120 million. Three days later, a remarkable chain of events unfolded, here in chronological order:

March 10

Each year on the so called Tibetan Uprising Day (March 10), Tibetans walk to commemorate the 1959 Tibetan national uprising against China. Also this year, monks from various monasteries began to peacefully march in Lhasa on that date. That same day, in spite of expeditions complying with Chinese rules of early applications and political screenings; an official notice was sent out to climbers stating that Everest north side would be closed until May 10.

The Lhasa march was seconded in other parts of the world – such as in Nepal, by Tibetan refugees protesting outside the Chinese embassy in Kathmandu. This year, Chinese embassy officials were allowed to direct Nepalese soldiers handling the Tibetan demonstrators and to spit on an American who took photos.

Rumor was that China attempted to convince Nepalese authorities to close also the south side of Everest until May 10. Nepal said it had denied the request.

March 11

March 11, Chinese officials told AFP that the ban on Everest North side climbing was a “misunderstanding.” Meanwhile, expedition leaders reported they were threatened with lifetime climbing bans if they gave out reports.

ExWeb received requests to remove from its website the official CTMA note and right after it was published; the week-in-review (illustrated by the notice) vanished mysteriously from ExWeb’s publisher.

Simultaneously in Lhasa, the Ganden monastery was surrounded by armed paramilitary police. Layers of soldiers and up to 2000 police were stationed around the Sera and Drepung monasteries. Monks were trapped with dwindling food supplies. 

March 12 and 13

In spite of denials made only two days earlier; on March 12, Nepalese Tourism Minister Prithvi Subba Gurung announced that also the south side of Everest would be closed for climbing during the torch relay.

Gurung said the move had been taken in response to a request from China, “this is to prevent some people who could infiltrate and cause trouble during the time when they take the torch to the top.”

The next day, on March 13, a media blackout was imposed on Lhasa. No pictures came out from the Tibetan capital, and no foreign journalists were allowed. Reporters trying to phone monasteries received replies such as, “the monks are all in their rooms.”

Tibetan and foreign demonstrators in India, resisting arrest by sitting or laying down, were hauled away into police buses.

March 14

About 80 dead, four monks torching themselves, a monastery badly damaged, and Chinese buildings set ablaze were reported from Lhasa on March 14. “There could be several hundred tanks and they were shooting into the crowds,” a private witness told RFA’s Tibetan service. 

An ExplorersWeb correspondent and local tourists in Lhasa reported a war-zone with tanks/armoured vehicles driving around in the streets, shops on fire, total curfew, and far worse violence than news reports were stating.

March 16

Sunday, March 16, China blamed Dalai Lama and Tibetans for the Lhasa killings and declared a “People’s War” on protesters inside and outside of Tibet, including the Dalai Lama. A live video showed scores of Chinese police searching door to door in Lhasa.

Journalists were banned from the city; and according to an US TV report – in spite of accredited journalist’s reports always being screened by Chinese officials – foreign media such as CNN in mainland China was forbidden to even mention Tibet.

March 17-23

In the following week, Chinese army mobilized in western China. Journalists were banned, Tibetans were jailed and international internet was infiltrated by Chinese cadres.

The last foreign journalist was forced out of Lhasa; and foreign press was prevented from traveling in certain mainland China areas. Any mention of Tibet was suspiciously missing from Google News China, while Yahoo China pasted a “most wanted” poster of Tibetans across its homepage. 

A unique online war broke out outside of the censored country. Youtube videos, blog postings and commentaries claimed to have been mady by ‘western’ posters were frequently busted for being made by Chinese sources.

FBI investigated attacks on Save Darfur domains; US State Department reported that such attacks by Chinese authorities had been ongoing for years. An increasing amount of MountEverest.net’s stories were re-tagged and stopped showing up in internet searches.

ExWeb specials: focus Chinese leadership

In the following days, thousands of paramilitary police and troops blanketed a huge swath of western China. Witnesses reported long convoys heading for Lhasa, with markings and registration plates of vehicles removed. Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma were closed. No permits, except for Dhaulagiri & Ama Dablam, were issued.

Chinese denials of Tibetan deaths were increasingly disproved by pictures arriving with tourists. Former President of Czech Republic Vaclav Havel said that the attempt to seal off Tibet from the rest of the world was a most dangerous situation and that the “harmony” trumpeted by China is known as “the peace of the graveyard.”

An increasing number heads of states decided to meet with the Dalai Lama whom the by Hu Jintao’s appointed Chief of Tibet Zhang Qingli called “a wolf wrapped in a rabbit, a monster with a human face and animal’s heart.” Qingli further declared “a fierce blood- and-fire battle with the Dali clique, a life-and-death battle between us and the enemy.”

ExplorersWeb kicked off an investigative series about China’s and Tibet’s current leadership.

OTC: “the Olympics should not be politicized”

The International Olympic Committee parroted China’s slogan that the Olympics should not be politicized. Reporters Without Borders, a press freedom organization, published excerpts from a 26-page IOC memo on the Olympic torch relay marked “confidential.” The memo showed that IOC worked closely with the Chinese in regards to “what to tell the press.”

The governor of Tibet told reporters in Beijing that anyone attempting to disrupt the torch’s journey on his watch “would be dealt with severely.”

In statements to media, some Olympic athletes said their only goal was to win a gold medal; while a few made statements for human rights.

Early April, pre-elections in Nepal

In an April 10 Nepal elections special, ExWeb ran an investigative story about a tiny party (3%) that joined the Nepal’s government not by election but by force, and with a leader who recently had been on Interpol’s most wanted list; the Maoists.

ExWeb had covered the rebels for years. After breaking people’s legs, burying some alive, killing others in front of their family or forcing family members to hurt each other while the entire village watched, the big question was: what connections with China did Maoist leader Prachanda have, and how big was his power?

ExWeb found that in spite of UN and promises made, Prachanda still had an army; and according to Red Star (the Maoist own website) Prachanda was member of RIM in Chicago founded by infamous Robert Avakian with members such as the “Shining Path” of Peru and the self-proclaimed objective of “world wide revolution by force.”

On December 8 in 2007, Prachanda had also met with the chairman of giant SMG (Shanghai Wenching Media Group), whose representatives had traveled to meet with the tiny Maoist party in the jungle of southern Nepal. SMG is part of SMEG – one of the largest media conglomerates in China.

April

By March 30, climbers started to receive preliminary climbing permits for Everest south side (Nepal) including a 13 point document with written instructions, issued by the Nepal Government.

Among the regulations; no anti-China props “that may harm bilateral relationship between Nepal and China,” electronics were to be stored with police in BC until May 10, and news about expeditions were to be screened by the Ministry of Tourism & Civil Aviation before allowed to be sent out.

Meanwhile, an eerie silence blanketed the blacked-out Lhasa. Horror stories trickled out as journalists, western officials and foreign diplomats in Tibet were denied unsupervised access. At the Jokhang temple about 30 terrified young monks unexpectedly surrounded a group of guided journalists and started shouting, “they are tricking you, they are telling lies, don’t believe them.”

A woman reported that Tibetans were arrested and secretly shot outside town.

April 10: Maoists win Nepal election

While at first established parties were reported to take the lead; the Maoists shocked by a landslide victory in Nepal’s elections. International observers, including former US President Jimmy Carter, deemed the Nepal election “free and fair.” Carter also stated that it’s wrong of US to still consider the Maoists terrorists.

The centre for Tibetan refugees in Kathmandu (where some of the Nangpa La victims were housed in 2006) was closed. Prachanda said that he would not allow the Dalai Lama office to reopen and that the Maoists regard Tibet as inseparable part of China.

Climbers told ExWeb that Kathmandu looked like a ghost town on April 10 and seemed not in very a festive mood on the Nepalese New Year a few days later. “This climate of apprehension is due to the pressure put by the Maoists on Nepal’s people,” analyzed one climber – a long time visitor to the country.

“The Maoists threatened to take retaliation against the people in case they lost the elections. Fear spread among the population and thus the Maoist party has obtained a majority of votes in the polls,” reported another.

April 10-20

Shortly after the election, Liaison Officers, selected to search and monitor electronic equipment and enforce the communications ban arrived in Everest south side BC. An army major was put in charge of “security” and snipers were positioned in high camps; ordered to sharp-shoot protesters. Camps were searched, laptops, sat-phones and cameras were confiscated, leaving the climbers with just radios to communicate among themselves – and their conversations were to be eavesdropped.

Following a big meeting between expedition leaders and authorities, climbers reported they had been told: “…we shall not mention the words “Tibet” or “Free Tibet” – we can’t speak about the subject, neither can we say anything which could sound offensive towards China. It is also forbidden to wear T- shirts or to show any symbol referring to China or Tibet while in the area.”

Even trekkers were to be prevented to bring their cameras and phones beyond Gorak Shep. Handwritten notes that friends could post from Namche were to first be read by officials in BC. Maoist checkpoints were reported enroute to BC and some trekkers said they were still forced to pay “revolutionary fees.”

Nepalese effectively prohibited anyone flying towards Everest BC and surrounding mountains. Two climbers who arrived in Manaslu base camp on foot reported, “we didn’t fly because foreigners are not allowed to fly, by a new law of the Nepal aviation authority in relation with the unstable situation in Tibet. Or so we have been told.”

Climbers without borders

ExplorersWeb’s “Climbers Without Borders” hotline allowed climbers, their relatives and friends to report anonymously from the mountain. Pictures arrived of Chinese security guards and plain clothes Chinese police on the Nepal side of Everest and a helicopter carrying Chinese officials inspecting Everest BC.

A banner sealed off the Lhotse wall and a small police post guarded camp 2, with a soldier doing the rounds each day with a sniper rifle. Climbers were forced to pay thousands of dollars to feed the soldiers on the mountain. “It is insane. It is extortion to pay for your own persecutors,” one expedition leader said. Radio restrictions were enforced between BC and high camps. “The Army alleges security reasons we can’t really understand,” commented an Italian mountaineer.

A young, unguided American climber was kicked off Everest after fellow climbers tipped off the police that he had a Tibetan banner in his backpack. A BBC reporter was expelled from BC. The Nepalese authorities imposed a complete communication ban on journalists from the south side base camp and upwards. Climbers were not allowed to hold even informal chats with media; if any mountaineer talked to the BBC, he or she would be expelled. 

Early May, Everest had become an army base on both sides as the torch made its way to the summit. Foreign military jets were seen flying over the summit. Checkpoints in the Khumbu searched climbers’ luggage for communications equipment, cameras, and flags. Helicopters were flying between Katmandu and base camp bringing more army troops, supplies and food. “Base camp is becoming an army camp rather than a climbing base,” mountaineers reported.

Protests and attacks

Following a story about suspected mass executions in Lhasa, ExplorersWeb was attacked by batches of vicious spam, threatening emails, faked orders at the HumanEdgeTech online store and messages notifying that all ExWeb’s domains were to be registered in China, Taiwan and Hong Kong.

The French mountaineering organization GHM (original Piolet d’Or) issued a protest, asking international mountaineers, mountaineering authorities, alpine clubs, trade associations and UIAGM to declare themselves officially against the torch event.

UIAA asked CMA to take their flag no higher than base camp on the Tibetan side, so it would face the same restrictions as the climbers on the south side: “The UIAA, which stands for the freedom of access to all mountains, has advised the CMA that it cannot allow its flag to fly over Everest, when the UIAA’s very constituents, the international climbing community, find themselves barred or greatly restricted in their access to the mountain,” stated UIAA’s President Mike Mortimer.

Everest north side Olympic torch ascent

In Beijing, international journalists selected to cover the Olympic torch Everest ascent, were told to go straight to Everest via Lhasa in three days. Altitude sick and left to interview only Chinese-conditioned Tibetans; the correspondents were prevented from reporting on anything other than the flame and were told that no media would be allowed when the torch left BC.

None of the Chinese torch climbers were among the country’s top high altitude mountaineers, and some in the torch team had already been involved in at least one 8000+ summit controversy.

Chinese expedition leader Wang Yongfeng (a representative of the Chinese Mountaineering Association in Beijing) had only 3, 8000+ summits (Everest and Cho Oyu, all with oxygen support). In 2005 he skied one degree to the South Pole and claimed a full trip although he only did one tenth of the required distance.

On May 5, the Chinese stated that 3 climbers had topped out Everest from the north side. Everest south side mountaineers watching the attempt live from the summit of Kalapattar (Nepal) said the team had overcome the Second Step, but then a storm forced them down.

The 2008 “live” coverage turned out “almost live” and summit images only showed clouds, flags and various climbers. In light of the previous controversies, and 4 different videos shot by China on the summit already in 2007, suspicion was raised about the authenticity of the summit climb.

08/08/08

“The moment I saw the torch lit on top of Mount Everest I felt very hurt,” a Tibetan told Reuters and his feelings were shared by many around the world. After the torch ascent, climbing- and comms bans were lifted on Everest south side. Hundreds of mountaineers celebrated summit; only two made gestures for Tibet.

That same month, Inaki Ochoa, one of the few mountaineers who took a clear stand against the Olympic games in Beijing lost his life on Annapurna. A few months later, Pavle Kozjek – the first mountaineer to send pictures from Nangpa La – perished on Trango Tower. Luis Benitez, who blew the whistle on the Cho Oyu shootings, was forced out from Himalaya by his guiding peers.

In August, a notice from Google arrived to ExplorersWeb, headlined “removal from Googles index:”

“While we were indexing your webpages, we detected that some of your pages were using techniques that are outside our quality guidelines [...] This appears to be because your site has been modified by a third party [...] we have temporarily removed some of your webpages from our search results. Currently pages from mounteverest.net are scheduled to be removed for at least 30 days.”

Aftermath

The 08/08/08 inaguaration of the Olympic games in Beijing were attended by most heads of states and business celebrities such as President Bush and Bill Gates. Putin was there too, mostly busy sending troops to Georgia.

“The impression China must get [with the Olympics] is that it does not matter how much it violates human rights; the international community seems not to care,” stated two independent Canadian investigators following a story about human organ transplant plants in China.

“With neighbouring China and India in their immoral collusion, supported by a pusillanimous Britain and United States, there is little the Tibetans can do officially to represent their interests to the world,” wrote George Patterson, who rode across the Himalayas in the winter of 1949, became involved with the Tibetan resistance and helped Dalai Lama to escape.

“Appalling sort of abdication of moral responsibility,” wrote one journalist about Everest and Nangpa La following the 2008 season.

One battle doesn’t win a war

China won. Or did they.

ExWeb cleaned up the code sneaked onto its server and MountEverest.net was back on Google within a week. New climbers began speaking up for Tibet. Two managed to sneak up a pro-Tibet t-shirt to the top of Everest, many more demonstrated around the world and new lines were forged for human rights.

While winning a short-term victory; the Beijing Olympic Games did not turn out the way the Chinese dictators had envisioned them. In spite of all their broken promises of free speech; the world managed to get a look at China’s true face.

Before the games, few people knew that China is not a free country; that only 5% of its population are members in the communist party and that 95% of the Chinese population has no influence on the political process at all.

Before the games, few knew that Xinhua is nothing but a PR agency for the government of China. That “the Great Firewall of China” is the name of China’s network of firewalls and proxy servers at the Internet gateways aimed to keep the Chinese people in the dark.

The Olympic flame put in spotlight the farms where innocent people are held alive to become organ donors to foreign recipients; and the giant slave force serving the rich. Before the games, few knew that the Chinese people yearn for democracy, science, human rights, freedom, reason, and equality.

Before the games, there was much talk about wonder economy, booming Tibet, and Chinese billionaires. After the games, people have learned that in spite of huge foreign investments; the Chinese financial success has not been striking compared to other countries in Asia. The difference between rich and poor in China has increased and half the population is living on less than $2/day – the situation is even worse in rural areas and occupied Tibet. The Olympic torch also highlighted the dangerous liasions foreign companies have made in this unpredictable climate.

Two months from now, on March 10, 2009, the walk will commence again. This year, it will mark the 50th anniversary of the 1959 uprising. Perhaps the global financial crisis will turn out Tibet’s biggest chance.

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