Hahoe Folk Village, Andong is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a peaceful retreat. I visited Andong during autumn with a group of students on an English field trip programme.

People, I am leaving Korea in four months! Just four months! Now, I realize that time could be ‘less’ on my side, but what I have learnt from the eight months I have spent here is that time is never on your side. Time doesn’t give a damn about you. It keeps going, even when you are not ready to let go, move on and say goodbye.

To ensure that I don’t find myself with a fomo-induced panic attack three months from now, I am compiling a list. I am a list/plan/schedule kind of girl. I need to put things on paper to distinguish the really important things from everything else beating about in my mind. It’s not a bucket list, well I mean it’s like a bucket list, but I’m not actually calling it that. It’s a priorities list (for more on this line of reasoning visit one of my favourite travel blogs, Adventurous Kate).

I am trying to be reasonable here. South Korea has so much to offer, I can’t expect to see it ALL. This list is a reflection of my most pressing curiosities. Some have already been achieved and will be ticked off because I like making lists that give me a sense of accomplishment. Yes, that is frivolous, but also so clever – yay me! Here goes.

A view of Seoul’s Namsan Tower taken from from the historic hanok village, Bukchon.

1. Jeju Island

Korea’s Hawaii? Yes, please.

2. Eat bibimbap in Jeonju

Wikipedia lists this as an important centre for Korean food so obviously I’m in.

3. Gyeonju

Gyeonju is the capital of the ancient Silla Kingdom and has two UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

4. Attend a Korean wedding.

I witnessed a fake, but traditional, Korean wedding at the Traditional Folk Village in Yongin and I was lucky enough to crack an invite to an old colleague’s special day. Both were beautiful.

The re-enactment of a traditional Korean wedding ceremony at the Yongin Folk Village, Gyeonggi-do.

5. DMZ

The world’s most heavily militarized border had me very curious about North Korea after my two visits. The best glimpse I have had into the tragedy of the Korean War and a country split in two.

6. Seoul

I’ve spent many a weekend in Seoul, but there are a few things that still need doing in this mega city – photograph the cat café in Hongdae, explore Huwon, enjoy a traditional tea ceremony in Insa-dong (but also to buy gifts for my fam) and visit the War Memorial and Museum.

On a visit to the nearby city of Paju, I visited the Demilitarised Zone at Imjingak.

7. Boryeong Mudfest

Not much to say here, except for whoop whoop!

8. Temple stay

Staying in a temple is not going to be easy. Hours of silence in meditation and vegan food are usually not how I spend weekends, but I do believe a really special experience awaits.

Seoraksan National Park’s massive Buddha sculpture that forms part of the Park’s Sinheungsa Temple.

9. Learn enough basic Korean to hold a five minute conversation

10. Kickass with some sweet taekwondo moves

I know pumsae one to eight! I have not been rewarded with a black belt yet, but I am still really proud of myself for sticking it out and learning something new.

11. Have a beer on the pavement outside a convenient store

Must do more of this because this is illegal back home.

12. Ski

Uh, lovely but harrowing experience – more on this to follow soon.

Traditional Korean fare at the Namdaemun Market near the popular Chonggyecheon Stream, Seoul.

13. Learn to use chopsticks

It’s the one thing I thought I wouldn’t crack before I came to Korea, but in just two weeks I felt like a pro – evidence that you learn by simply doing.

14. Bang bang bang – noraebang, jimjilbang and PC bang

My favourite of the above-mentioned bangs is definitely the noraebang. Karaoke with just your friends and everyone gets to sing along as opposed to an Idols’ type scenario. Very forgiving of those of us who are not blessed with a talent for singing.

15. Take a cooking class and learn to cook at least one of the following dishes: kimchi jjigae, dakgalbi, bulgogi or bibimbap.

16. Beosong

Korea’s green tea fields – a must see for this tea-drinking photography enthusiast.

Jolly festival-goers stroll the streets along the Hangang River enjoying the cherry blossoms at the Yeouido Spring Flower Festival, Seoul.

17. Seoraksan National Park

I have visited this beautiful mountain before, but I hope to return and climb a really impressive peak of sorts. Not sure which one yet.

18. Yeouido Cherry Blossom Festival

So, an impressive 3 trees were actually in bloom when I visited, but I had a great time strolling the streets with friends anyway.

19. Nami Island

An island in the nearby city of Chuncheon, known for beautiful tree lined roads and a general air of romance.

20. Stay at a traditional village

I spent a night in a hanok in the beautiful Hahoe village near Andong. The ondol had me burning up even after winter had a firm grip on Korea, but it was a lovely peaceful experience.

Curios for sale in Andong.

21. Sancheono Festival

An ice fishing festival in my county that also happens to be one of the world’s largest ice festivals!

22. Hite beer and Jinro soju Brewery

Finding it difficult to find information on how to make this happen, but determined. Anyone with a clue, please get in touch.

All smiles at Hwacheon’s Sancheono Festival, but really I was crying inside. It was so cold. Like seriously cold.

23. Try haejangguk (hangover soup)

24. Baseball

I’ve always considered a rugby or cricket game part of the South African experience. Perhaps the same can be said for Korea and its much loved sport, baseball. Let’s find out.

25. Cheorwon

This town is right on the border between the two Koreas and is home to a friend of mine.

The structure that hosts the Peace Bell at Imjingak Unification Park.

See what I did there? I made a list of 25 things, of which I only have to do 13. Already, I feel like I’m WINNING!

In the summer of 2012, noting that this was the bicentennial year for the War History Teachers Cannot Get Us To Remember of 1812, the Hedgehogs traveled to Fort Stanwix in Rome, New York.

We chose to begin at the Fort Stanwix Interpretive Center.

An authentically-designed flat-bottomed canoe is positioned near the entrance.

Fort Stanwix was built in the mid-1700s on the high ground at a crucial portage site known as The Oneida Carrying Place.  An ancient trail led from the Mohawk River to Wood Creek, which flows into Oneida Lake.  From Oneida Lake, it was possible to travel westward all the way to Lake Ontario, so control of this vital point of transportation was wise indeed.

Inside the Interpretive Center, beyond the gift shop and reception desk, the wide halls were filled with images of people who would have been present during the years this Fort was active as a military post.

Recordings associated with various characters helped to tell stories of the interactions between Native Americans, settlers, and both British and Colonial military forces.  There was also a small theatre where a movie played out a dramatization of the Siege of Fort Stanwix.

Display cases held objects that have been recovered over many years of archaeological digs at the site, as well as contemporary pieces that help visitors comprehend the 18th century technology.

From here, we headed up the road to the Fort itself.  The meadow on either side of the road has been maintained, as well as possible, to look just as it would have in the late 1700s with native flora.

There were two entry arches.  This was the first:

Just past which was a guardhouse.

And then came the drawbridge!

From the bridge, it was easy to see some of the defensive fortifications.

And, once inside, it was neat to see the mechanism for operating the bridge!

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The Parade Grounds featured two archaeological digs (required by law any time a renovation at an historic site is undertaken) as well as benches for watching interpretive reenactments and presentations… and a cannon.

Around the perimeter of the fort were barracks for single soldiers

and family quarters for the married soldiers.

There was even a cell for prisoners.

The Fort included a Trading Post

with a trap door in the floor!

The Park Ranger was more than happy to give us a lift as he answered questions.

And then it was time to go up to the top of the fortifications for a demonstration on the military drills soldiers at the fort were required to execute.

This included shooting a blank from an historically authentic musket. There were more cannons on the upper level, also functional for demonstrations during special events.

The soldier was a pleasant young man who maintained serious military discipline until the demonstration was officially over.

Known at “The Fort That Never Surrendered”, Stanwix could also be called “The Fort of Many Rebuildings.”  Built in 1762, it was dilapidated and all but abandoned within ten years.  The strategic high ground became important during the Revolutionary War, and so the fort was rebuilt (and renamed Fort Schuyler, but that never stuck) and played a key role in defeating British General Burgoyne.  In appreciation, the fort was burned down in 1781, only to be rebuilt in 1794 as a storage facility used during the War of 1812, but it was abandoned once more by 1815.

Volunteers and historic preservationists, beginning in the 1930s, sought to restore Fort Stanwix, but it took another 30 years to raise the necessary funding.  Nevertheless, a rebuilt and restored Fort Stanwix opened to the public for the U.S. Bicentennial in 1976.  It’s well worth a visit!

Visitor Center

On a recent trip to Tennessee, our son took us to the Stones River National Battlefield.  I’ve visited many Civil War battlefields over the years but this was my first time at Stones River.  At the visitors center we learned about the battle and then we took a driving tour. My husband and I are both history buffs and we have a particular affinity for the Civil War. Both of us have ancestors who fought for the Confederacy and we both grew up with the many Civil War sites nearby.  Seeing the terrain and hearing the story of the Battle of Stones River gave us an understanding of what the men who fought here went through one hundred and fifty years ago.

Stones River

At the beginning of the war, Tennessee seceded while Kentucky did not. This drew the initial lines in the “west.”  By mid-1862 most of the Mississippi was lost and Union ships blockaded the southern and eastern ports. Union strategists planned to cut a wedge through Tennessee and Georgia to divide the Confederacy. Although widespread, the road network of the day would not sustain transport of supplies, munitions and men. Railroads and riverboats provided the fastest and easiest means of transport. So the Union generals were ordered to capture the railroads and take control of the rivers.

Fences on Battlefield

The spring of 1862 saw the fall of Fort Donelson and Nashville, both on the Cumberland River. On the night of December 30th General William Rosecrans left Nashville and marched his men southeast along the Nashville Pike, which paralleled the Nashville & Chattanooga Railroad. They camped just outside Murfreesboro where the enemy waited. Anticipating the coming fight, Confederate forces under General Braxton Bragg attacked on the freezing-cold morning of December 31st. From the south they pushed  the Union troops back toward Nashville Pike, the railroad and the Stones River.  The battle raged across cotton fields, through stoney outcroppings and cedar thickets for three long days. Thousands on both sides were killed, wounded or captured.  (13,249 Union, 10,266 Confederate)

Terrain near river, scene of last day of battle

On January 2, 1862, after having pushed the northern troops off a hill and across the Stones River, Union artillery on the far side of the small river fired on pursuing Confederates, killing or wounding nearly 1,800 in mere minutes. The southerners retreated as the Yankees recrossed the river and retook the high ground.  The following day General Bragg withdrew his men from the battlefield and from Murfreesboro.

Cannons fired across the fields.

In the months following the battle, General Rosecrans built a large fort at Murfreesboro called “Fortress Rosecrans.” This 200 acre, earthen-works fort became the supply depot for the later campaigns against the rail center  in Chattanooga and eventually Atlanta.

In 1863, not long after the battle, Colonel William Hazen’s men built a monument to commemorate the Union soldiers lost in the battle. It is the oldest intact Civil War memorial.

Hazen Brigade Monument

In 1866, over 6,100 Union soldiers were reburied in the Stones River National Cemetery.  In 1867 remains of Confederate soldiers were moved to a cemetery south of Murfreesboro. Later, in the 1890′s, about 2,000 southerners were moved again to Evergreen Cemetery in Murfreesboro. As at many other battlefields, the U.S. government established cemeteries for the Union soldiers who died, but private citizens provided for the interment of the Confederate dead.

Across the fields to the Stones River Cemetery

The Stones River battlefield became a tourist attraction bringing people and needed money to the area. Situated along the railroad, the Nashville, Chattanooga & St. Louis Railway provided excursions for those who wanted to see the cemetery, memorials and the battlefield  itself. The railway published a book called “Southern Battlefields” in 1890 to serve as a guidebook for those touring the many battlefields. Later, in 1906, the railroad built the artillery monument, a 34-ft-tall obelisk marking the hill where the last attack took place so that the passengers could see it from their train.

Hazen Brigade Monument – inside the wall

Modern day tourists can explore the preserved portion of the battlefield and the surrounding area. With the help of maps and information provided at the visitor center, tourists can maneuver through homes and business areas to find the Hazen Brigade Memorial, the remnants of “Fortress Rosecrans” and to explore the Stones River.

Marker along driving tour

When we returned home, I did a little research to determine if any of our ancestors fought at Stones River. It turns out that the Tennessee Sharpshooters (also called Maney’s Sharpshooters, 24th Tennessee Sharpshooter Battalion, Maney’s Battalion) under Captain Frank Maney are listed in the order of battle for the Army of the Tennessee at Stones River.  George Wade Knight, my great, great-grandfather, served in the 24 Battalion Tennessee Sharpshooters as did his brother-in-law, Perry L. Brown and his wife’s brother-in-law Philander Rushing.  All were from Humphreys County and probably joined up together.

Leaving Hazen Brigade Monument

A young man carts his clients around by tricycle in Manila’s old city, Intramuros.

When I decided to take my winter vacation in the Philippines, I spent lots of time researching. The country is made up of over 7000 islands (around 2000 are inhabited) and with only two weeks at hand, I had some hard choices to make. Naturally, I turned to my dear friend, Google, for guidance. The search engine presented me with beautifully written reviews of top Filipino destinations, but alas, there was not much to be said for Manila. If anything, I found that the city had a bit of a bad rep. “Crowded, noisy, chaotic, dangerous, skip it altogether” and so it went on. But, since it’s the capital and was our port of entry, Ben (boyfriend and travel buddy) and I figured that not spending at least a day in the city would be a waste. I am very pleased to announce that I was not disappointed.

Buildings rise high and are packed together tightly on Adriatico Street, Malate.

Manila is unlike any city I’ve visited before – colourful, energetic, hurried, thrilling, friendly and most significantly (in my view), a historical gem. Manila may not be for everyone, but here’s why I loved it:

Locals catch a break at a monument on Roxas Boulevard, Manila. Later that day, I read in a local newspaper, that the mayor of Manila, Alfredo Lim, has plans to construct several monuments in honour of notable Filipinos around the city. Lim, will run for mayorship a third consecutive time this May.

Urban Chaos and Colour

According to the 2010 census, Manila has a population of 1,652,171, living in an area of only 38.55 square kilometres. This makes it the most densely populated city in the world! The streets are never quiet and peak hour traffic never really subsides. You can’t hide from Manila in five star hotels – this place is in your face. But, that is precisely why I found it so lovely. Rich, poor, modern, historic, industry and inactivity are beautifully exhibited in this busy place.

Left: The entrance to a temple on the busy Adriatico Street, Malate. Right: Sculptures exhibited on the streets of Intramuros outside the NCCA (National Commission for Culture and the Arts) Gallery.

Something Old and Something New

Manila’s cityscape is diverse. Leaving the airport by taxi, we drove along the famous Roxas Boulevard and passed by shanty-towns, museums, government buildings and monuments. The eight lane road runs along the city’s coast and is lined with impressive modern structures, as well as historical points of interest. It was Roxas Boulevard that led us to the old city – Intramuros – and a fascinating lesson in Manila’s history.

Students walking near the south entrance of Intramuros, photographed from the top of the district’s wall.

The Manila Metropolitan Cathedral-Basilica which serves as the highest seat of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of the Philippines.

Intramuros is the oldest district in Manila and recognized as the city’s historical hub. The Walled City, as it is known, was the fortified seat of the Spanish government during the Spanish colonial period, and has seen great turmoil in its time. Today Intramuros (Latin for “within the walls”) is Manila’s best display of Spanish-era architecture. It is home to many churches, schools and the well-known Fort Santiago, the site where Filipino hero, José Rizal was imprisoned before his execution.

Fort Santiago, one of the most significant historical landmarks in the Philippines.

Manila was a great start to my Philippine adventure. A taste of the hustle and bustle of life in a Filipino city before venturing on to coconut trees, white sandy beaches and umbrella clad cocktails. More on that to follow soon.

A view of the Binondo skyline from Fort Santiago, Manila, Philippines.

Behind the palace lies a 78-acre garden, which has been known by various names, but my favorite is Biwon (비원) which means secret garden. This huge garden was originally only for the private use of the king, and no one could enter without his permission.

It is a fascinating walk because the garden is for the most part seemingly natural woodland but variously dotted with lotus ponds and pavilions. In front of a building which was used as a library, a board, written by King Jeongjo (who ruled from 1776 to 1800 and was one of the most successful and visionary rulers of the Joseon dynasty), reads “Gather the Universe”. Joseon kings relaxed, studied and wrote poems in this tranquil setting. The all-important civil service examination took place outdoors here.

Some of the trees are over 300 years old and are living testaments to the majesty of the garden (and if trees could talk, what a tale these trees would tell).

These shots were taken last Saturday afternoon, after it rained and rained.

Dandelions welcome spring at the foot of an old barn door.

Saturday – travel to Murfreesboro, AR
Sunday – church and walking a trail and checking out the diamond field
Monday – digging for diamonds at Crater of Diamonds State Park
Tuesday – travel to West Memphis, AR
Wednesday – Peabody Hotel (to watch the ducks), St. Blues Guitar Store Tour, Elmwood Cemetery (all in Memphis)
Thursday – travel to Huntsville, AL
Friday – Veterans Memorial Museum, girls do school in the rv
Saturday – girls go hiking with Daddy
Sunday – church and hanging out

Gorakh is the highest among the peaks of khirthar mountains range in Sindh. It lies in the west, at the distance of about 76 kms from Johi town of Dadu district. It is 5688 feet high from sea level. It is the most beautiful and the coldest point as Gilgit and Kalan. Some times it snows here in winter.
There are confusions about the origin of name and historical background of Gorakh. It needs discussion in the light of different traditions, sayings and opinions. Locally it is stated that Gorakh is derived from Balochi word “Gurkh”. Actually Balochi word “Gurkh” is perversion of Persian word “Gurg” which means wolf, regarding to this, it is said that Gorakh hill and its surroundings were abode of wolves. First it was called Gurkh and afterwards its pronunciation was changed as Gorakh. When we consider over this opinion, we should understand that in the past wolves were not only in the area of Gorakh hill but those were in foothills and adjoining highlands and plains of khirthar range and also in its neighboring deserted area of Kachho. Therefore, it is not considerable and justified opinion for the origin of the name of Gorakh hill.
Taj Sahrae, a renowned researcher and historian writes in his book “Lake Manchhar” that “Gorakh peak derives its name from one of the twenty four Tirathkarans of Jainism, Sri or Guru Gorakh Nath. According to Hindu mythology he is popularly known “Being an incarnation of Shiva” and historically he is a yogi, who founded shiviate cult in 11th century A.D”. Further he writes that “before partition Hindu yogis generally used to visit this peak. On a way to it there is yet an other place of worship called tirath kumb. There was a small temple on the top of hill standing over that kumb (spring). Hindus generally visited the temple and kumb and performed their religious rituals”. (Page no: 149-50).
Taj Sahrae has stated without any reference or quotation of any book. There are no remains or signs of any temple except the destroyed tomb of Miandad Fakir. Neither there was a temple nor does history tell about the visit of yogis in this area. On other hand Tirath Kumb is far from Gorakh hill in its north-east on the bank of river Gaj. It is possible that before partition local Hindus might have visited and performed rituals just like tirath, but there is no any historical confirmation about it in this regard. We think that most of our historians have followed the opinion of Taj Sahrae, who has linked the name of Gorakh hill with Sri or Guru Gorakh Nath.
In this connection we must think over the origin and actual meaning of Sindhi word “Gorakh”. In Jam-e-Sindhi lughaat volume five by Dr: NA Baloch, published by Sindhi Adabi Board Jamshoro, the given meanings of word Gorakh are: a difficult, a labyrinth, a tangled, unsolvable problem, highest, biggest etc (page no: 2356).In an other Sindhi to English dictionary by Permanand Mevaram, published by Institute of Sindhology Jamshoro, English words have been used: “intricate and difficult” for the meaning of word Gorakh. (Page no: 473).
In the light of the above basic meaning of Sindhi word Gorakh; it could be said that the name of Gorakh hill is derived from Sindhi word gorakh. Having difficult tracks, curvy and dangerous ways, labyrinth ascents or inclines and intricate passes like Khawal, it was too difficult to reach or success the Gorakh hill. So the local people might have named it, in the background of meaning of Sindhi word gorakh.

Gorakh hill is no doubt a token of tourism and culture, but its other valuable side is that various historical and archaeological sites are lying near to it. The sites of prehistoric rock carvings and engravings, Kafir Kot, Mian Jo Kot, Piprasar, graves of Zoroastrians (Roomy graves), Graveyard of Araro and Mir Allahyar Khan. Either these sites are in a way to Gorakh or in its surroundings.
According to the geological survey of Pakistan, there is a treasure of Gypsum in the north-east of Gorakh hill station. It starts from Gaaj River (Johi) to KN Shah Taluka of Dadu district. Fossils of different kinds are found here.
In surroundings of Gorakh, there are many ponds and springs, in which water remains all over the year. The springs or ponds of Jamooro, Gaj, Thakh, Hengarr, Chingani, Khashani and Gazmole are mentionable. Arrangements can be made to lift the water of some nearest springs and ponds to gorakh hill station. Because water is necessary for the development of the hill.
The stable arrangement of electricity is also very essential for development of the hill station. Electricity will increase the complexion and beauty of the hill.
Gorakh hill extremely needs a constructive type of work, just like restaurant, museum, research institution and other residential buildings must be built to convert it into a colorful village. Only a simple rest house, a grill on the border of Sindh-Balochistan and some other ordinary constructions have beautified the view of the hill.
The road that leads to the hill station is a main problem for the development of Gorakh hill station and making it stable tourism and cultural centre. With out road it would be impossible to make it as a secure, an attractive, rejoicing and exhilarative point. The calamity of rains always uses to disturb it easily. It should be made constantly stable for any sort of seasonal adversity.
Government of Pakistan had started to consider over the development of Gorakh since 1952, but still it is in same condition, except above cited some constructions. In 1998, government approved project of 999 million for the development of hill station. The completion of project was targeted up to 2007. But proper developments have not been completed yet.
The main problem is possession of plotting at Gorakh hill. It is must be discussed and kept in to mind. Some occupants had occupied at the Gorakh hill. The government has to allot plots to local people. Because the local people have right of possession of plotting on hill station. Government has to facilitate them to purchase plots and provide them facility for investment.

You can walk up Yulgok-ro and see three palaces in one day if you really wanted to here in Seoul, those being Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung and Changgyeonggung. Or walk down Saejong Dae-ro from Gyeongbokgung passing Gwangwhamun and find your fourth palace, Deoksugung. But there’s a fifth smaller and lesser known, and probably for that reason, free palace known as Gyeonghuigung in the vicinity as well. It’s not in the very touristy area as the others, but sits right downtown in the more businesslike area with Citibank and LG just across the street. Its name translates to Palace of Serene Harmony and it truly lives up to the name with so few visitors meandering around.

Construction of Gyeonghuigung began in 1617 and was completed in the 15^th year of the reign of Gwanghaegun in 1623. Known as the west palace now, but officially recognized as a royal villa during the Joseon period, the palace was enjoyed by some ten Korean kings. It was originally comprised of over 100 halls, but unfortunately most of them were burnt down either during the 29^th year of King Sunjo, in 1829, or during the 20^th year of the reign of King Gojong, and then later the remaining halls were burnt down during the Japanese colonial period so that schools could be built on the site for Japanese children. After the liberation in 1946, Seoul High School was built on the site and remained there until 1978. Finally, in 1985 the Seoul city government decided to reconstruct the palace grounds and restoration began. However, it was not to be. The area that was once immense and only for the palace had been invaded by urban growth and there was not as much space for the government to rebuild. Only 33% of the former palace has been reconstructed since then.

Interestingly, the main hall that sits on the grounds, Sungjeongjeon, is a replica that was built in 1987 as the original had been moved to Dongguk University and was deemed too old to be moved again. It is now known as Jeonggakwon, or the Hall of Righteous Enlightenment. The main gate, Heunghwamun, was moved and installed as the main gate for Bakmunsa, which is now the Shilla Hotel and was dedicated to Ito Hirobumi, a Japanese resident-general, before being relocated back at Gyeonghuigung in 1985. Also on the grounds are Jajeongjeon and Taeryeongjeon and a large rock in the northwest corner of the grounds with spring water trickling down. It is said that this rock and spring were the reasons that Prince Gwanghae had the villa built here in the first place.

Though the palace isn’t as conveniently located in the tourist area of Insa-dong and hasn’t received an UNESCO designation, it is still worth visiting. It’s very quiet and my friend along for the trip said we should have brought a picnic along or some books to sit and read as no one would have bothered us there. Also right next door is the Seoul Museum of History, so it’s worth the trip to see both at one time.

Opening Hours:

Weekdays: 09:00 – 18:00
Weekends and holidays: 10:00 – 18:00
Closed on Mondays and January 1st.

Admission: Free.

How to get to Gyeonghuigung Palace:
The Palace is located near 5 subway stops.
Line 5 exit 7 at Gwanghwamun Station
Line 5 exit 4 at Seodaemun Station
Line 3 exit 6 at Gyeongbokgung Station

A traditional gate opened onto a path that surrounded a walled in space that sits on the southeastern side of Mt. Inwang. Finding a gate ajar on the east side, we stepped in and found a kind of space I hadn’t yet seen in Korea. Two platforms surrounded by what will be grass very soon with the coming of summer that were once used to make offerings to the god of land (Sa) and the god of grains (Jik) with the belief that the destiny of the entire nation was dependent upon the mercy of these two deities as well as the deceased royal ancestors who would be prayed for at nearby Jongmyo Shrine. Joseon rulers saw these rites as the most important of state affairs to ensure the safety and prosperity of their dynasty and performed them in February, August and in times of drought as well as in times of trouble.

The park was named in 1395 by Taejo Lee Sung-gye who made the first Sajik altar, as well as built Gyeongbokgung and Jongmyo Shrine. Rites were held here regularly dating back to the Three Kingdom Period in Korea from the 4^th to the 7^th centuries. Under Japanese colonial rule, these rites were abolished in 1908 until they were reintroduced with the Seoul Olympics in 1988. One can see the rites performed on the third Sunday of September every year. This ceremony has been designated as Intangible Cultural Property No. 111.

The rites involve offering slaughtered cattle, pig and lamb as well as grains to the gods followed by ceremonies offering silk, known as jeonpye, welcoming the deities, known as yeongsinnye, offering three wines, choheonnye, aheonnye and jongheonnye, sharing the food, known as eumbongnye, and finally lighting the written prayers on fire, known as mangnye.

Outside of the altar area is plenty of space to run around, as most of the children were doing this past weekend. There are basketball hoops and a playground as well as a Children’s Library nearby. Behind the altar area are two large statues, one represents Lee Yulgok, one of the most prominent scholars and philosophers during the Joseon Dynasty who lived from 1536 to 1584 and the other statue represents Sin Saimdang, an artist and poet as well as Lee Yulgok’s mother who lived from 1504 to 1551.

Following a path up some stairs behind these statues leads to a shrine honoring Dangun, the founder of Gojoseong, the first Korean kingdom in 2333BC. He is said to be the grandson of heaven.

This small park represents some of the oldest traditions in Korea and is a pleasant stop on the way to or from Insa-dong. It is also a good start to a hike up Inwang Mountain.

To get there:

By subway:
Gyeongbokgung Palace Station (Seoul Subway Line 3), Exit 1. Go straight for 5min to arrive at Sajik Park on the right.

Hours of the park:

March – October: 9AM – 6PM

November – February: 9AM – 5:30PM