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MC2 Home Inspections recommends that you receive a Home Maintenance Inspection every two to three years. For about the cost of a basic automotive tune-up, a Home Maintenance Inspection can help identify problems and damage in your home before they become an expensive or irreversible threat to your fiscal and physical well-being. Most people perform regular maintenance on their car, yet most people neglect the single most expensive investment they have, their home.

Much like a buyer-seller inspection, a home maintenance inspection is a visual examination of your home’s systems, mechanicals and structure. Everything from the foundation to the roof is inspected to ensure that everything is in proper working order.

We will inspect:

Foundation and Structure
Exterior components (grading, siding, trim, windows, doors, decks, patios, driveway, etc.)
Roof, gutters and downspouts
Attics, basements and crawlspaces
Insulation and ventilation
Electrical systems and components
Plumbing systems and components
Heating and air conditioning systems
Kitchen including all appliances
Bathrooms

Any defects or damage found during the inspection will be noted in our comprehensive home inspection report. The report includes digital photos of the inspection as well as recommendations on key items found during the inspection. The report will be emailed to you in PDF format by 11:59pm the same day as the inspection.

MC2 Home Inspections is dedicated to helping you maintain your home with this valuable service. This way you can use your homes equity for more important things such as that much needed vacation, a new car or even your next home purchase, rather than extensive repairs due to deferred maintenance on your current home.

We also offer a wide array of other services such as:

Radon Testing
Mold Inspections and Testing
Well and Septic Inspections
Termite Inspections
Water Testing

Proudly serving the entire Indianapolis metro area. Call us today to take advantage of this valuable offer 317-605-3432.

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It could be a spark from the outlet when you plug something in, a loose connection or a flickering light. All are indications of a potentially bigger electrical problem.

Unfortunately, homeowners often ignore signs of electrical dangers, and the result can be deadly. About half of all residential electric fires are due to a wiring issue according to the U.S. Fire Administration.

“Most people tighten the lug nuts on their cars and there are only typically 20 of those; but it’s important, so you make sure they’re tight,” said Sammie Bracken, a master electrician with Mr. Electric in Plainfield. “The average home can have thousands of electrical connections. All it takes is for one to fail. There are a lot of things going against the electrical system. It’s a place for mechanical failure, human error or just plain wearing out. If you start seeing flickering lights, stuff snapping, sparking when you’re plugging in, or outlets that feel loose, that’s a good indication that it’s time to replace it.”

Bracken recommends an inspection of your home’s electrical system at least every three years. Regular preventative maintenance plans usually cost about $150.

“What we like to do is go through and do a tune up on the panel and give a general safety checkup of the entire home,” Bracken said. “A lot of things can change in three years. Maybe you had a furnace or air conditioner replaced and now the breaker is not sized properly. That causes problems. If you let anything go too long, it’s almost to the point where it’s a total failure. That’s more expensive than a little preventative maintenance.”

Master electrician John Calhoun says he regularly gets calls from what he terms “Happy hands at home” — homeowners who have attempted an electrical installation or repair themselves.

“I have fixed ‘Happy hands at home’ wiring for years,” said Calhoun, owner of John Calhoun and Associates, electricians, in Indianapolis. “Just because you can make a (fixture) light up with a piece of lamp cord and friction tape doesn’t mean that it meets the National Electric Code requirements. There are ways that things must be done. It’s not open to conjecture.”

A common do-it-yourself mistake is the improper installation of ceiling fans — usually because they’re not mounted to a UL (Underwriters Laboratories)-listed fan hanging box, Calhoun said.

“I have seen some pretty shaky fans and have heard of a couple actually coming down out of ceilings because they weren’t hung on a UL-listed fan hanging box,” Calhoun said.

Frayed wires, hot switches and dimmers and damaged cords are also common dangers, as well as potential fire hazards, and should be immediately replaced. Electrical panels and breaker boxes should be replaced after 20 to 25 years, said Bracken, who said he’s seen a lot of panels damaged this summer due to the unusually hot and dry weather.

“We have seen panels in the basement dripping wet from condensation,” Bracken said. “Condensation is a big safety factor right now with the dry year we’ve had. It’s 100 degrees outside, but the basement is nice and cool. You have a pipe blasting hot air into the panel box. That goes right into the basement. The hot air and cold air mix and you get water dripping from the panel.”

Electricians in Indiana must be licensed, in each municipality where they work, and insured. Homeowners who hire unlicensed companies or individuals to do electrical work are liable, should any damages occur as a result of the work.

“Ask to see their license,” Bracken said.

Angie Hicks is a Fishers resident and founder of Angie’s List, a national provider of ratings in more than 550 categories of service.

Dear Angie: Our 32-year-old house needs so much maintenance and  updating inside and out that it’s  difficult to know to where to begin and end. We need more than home staging. We need a master plan to adequately address needs without spending more money than would be wise. Are there any consultant services available to address this need? Would a real estate agent be the best bet? — Lou R., Murrysville, Pa.

Dear Lou:It depends on what you want to do with your house. Do you want to sell it, or do you want to remain in the home? That decision is likely to affect whom you hire and for what.

If you plan to sell the house, then a reputable real estate agent with a good  history should be able to help you address major issues that could hinder the sale. Undoubtedly, at some point, the agent should bring in an independent home inspector for a pre-listing inspection to look at the house’s  structural integrity, roof, plumbing, electrical and other major components, including the heating and cooling system. A home inspector can help you prioritize what needs to be addressed. Plus, if you make improvements before listing the house, it can cost you less because you can select the products in the price range you want. Even better, you get to enjoy the improvements while you live in the house; and when you do put it on the market, it should sell quicker.

Once any necessary repairs identified by the home inspector are made, bringing in a home stager to prepare the home for sale is a great step to move it quickly. With so many houses for sale — and many already deeply discounted — the value of one that looks clean, is in good condition and is move-in ready is at an all-time high. A stager can help you make the home look “sell ready.”

If you don’t plan to sell your home, then a  preventive-maintenance inspection from a  qualified home inspector could be all you need to tackle your to-do list. A home inspector also can help you identify which permits are required for specific projects. Home  inspections typically cost $200 to $400. Many  inspectors provide the  reports the same day as inspections. It should be thorough and easy to  understand, and it should  include the  findings specific to your house.

Of course, you’ll want to check the credentials of anyone you hire.  Always check the company’s  reputation and ask for proof of  licensure and insurance.

We always want to prepare our homes for the winter months. And spring thaw is the true test of how successful we were at winterizing our homes. Did we check the foundation for cracks and fix any moisture problems? Did we check the weather stripping around our exterior doors? Did we clean our Gutters? Did we make sure all of the flashing and caulking were in good shape?

It’s all about thinking ahead and preventing future problems. Why? Because preventing is always cheaper than fixing. When the temperatures start to rise in the spring, it will be obvious what you did and what you didn’t do in the fall to prepare.

Indiana winter is harsh, but it’s also dry, and the weather is somewhat predictable. But spring brings all kinds of weather. Some days will be unusually warm and others will seem bitterly cold. We’ll have rain one day, sunshine the next.

We have to remember that our homes respond to their environment. Homes expand as they get warmer, and they contract as it gets cooler. This expansion and contraction is going to test the construction of your home throughout the season. And how it reacts depends on what’s behind the walls and beneath the floors.

For example, you may start to notice cracks in your drywall, tile or grout. Or hairline cracks above doors and window frames. Certain floors might start to creak more than others, or even buckle in more extreme cases. Or outdoor patios and steps might have shifted and become unlevel.

All of these cases require immediate attention. Depending on how serious the problem, you will want to consult a licensed experienced contractor. So take some time this spring to check over your house. A little bit of maintenance now can pay off big in the long run.

So, what are the key things you should be looking for?

For starters, we need to check the water level and power of our sump pumps. We get a lot of precipitation in the spring here in Indianapolis, so we need to think about how the increase in moisture levels will affect our homes. If your basement floods a lot every spring, you should seriously consider getting a heavy duty sump pump that can handle the flow.

We also have to think about where the water from the sump pump is being directed. We see a lot of sump pumps draining the water outside, right next to the foundation wall, which is pointless. The water that was pumped out of the basement will just work its way back in. The water should be pumped a minimum of 10′ away from your foundation wall and anyone else’s.

Another major concern is sewer backup. If we get too much rainfall, or if there’s a drain blockage, water from the sewer can back up into the home.

We recommend getting a professional plumber to check the drains before April showers to make sure there aren’t any blockages, particularly in older homes. And if there are, the solution is already there: Have the plumber clear it out.

Next time you’re outside, check your fencing, deck railings and steps. If they need repair or replacement, get on it. These can be significant safety hazards. In fact, if someone gets hurt because of poorly maintained steps or railings, you’re the one who’s going to hurt. Why? Because as a homeowner you are liable for any injuries on your property that occur as a direct result of deferred maintenance.

Spring is also one of the most popular times to repair roofs, for two reasons. The first is, like other materials, shingles contract and are brittle in the winter. If you install them then, by spring, your shingles can start to buckle or crack.

The second reason is that roofers are just like anybody else: They don’t like working in extreme weather. So you want to avoid getting your roof repaired during the cold winter, or brutally hot summer temperatures. Otherwise, you know what will happen? They’ll rush through the work, just to get some relief from the weather.

Other things that will help bring our homes up to speed with spring include: inspecting wood siding and trim for signs of moisture damage, and cleaning our gutters, yet again, to prevent a blockage that can cause water to back up onto our roofs or overflow down the siding.

This is also a good time to check smoke and carbon monoxide detectors, and vacuum the lint from the dryer duct. A lot of people don’t know this, but lint can be a major fire hazard.

Maintaining your home may seem like a chore, especially when you’re tempted to sit back, relax and enjoy the weather. But remember: Spring maintenance doesn’t benefit anyone but you. So do yourself a favor: Stay ahead of the game, get the work done so you can prevent emergency repairs.

Why do many garages pose a fire hazard?

• Where are you most likely to do any welding, or any work on your car? These  activities require working with all sorts of flammable materials.
• Water heaters and boilers are usually stored in garages, and they can  create sparks that may ignite fumes or fluids. Car batteries, too, will  spark under certain conditions.
• Oil and gasoline can drip from cars. These fluids may collect unnoticed and  eventually ignite, given the proper conditions.
• Flammable liquids, such as gasoline, motor oil and paint are commonly stored  in garages. Some other examples are brake fluid, varnish, paint thinner and  lighter fluid.

The following tips can help prevent garage fires and their  spread:

• If the garage allows access to the attic, make sure a hatch covers this  access.
• The walls and ceiling should be fire-rated. Unfortunately, it will be  difficult for untrained homeowners to tell if their walls are Type X fire-rated  gypsum. An InterNACHI inspector can examine the walls and ceiling to make sure  they are adequate fire barriers.
• The floor should be clear of clutter. Loose papers, matches, oily rags, and  other potentially  flammable items are extremely dangerous if they are  strewn about the garage floor.
• Use light bulbs with the proper wattage, and do not overload electrical  outlets.
• Tape down all cords and wires so they are not twisted or  accidentally yanked.

If there is a door that connects the garage to the living area,  consider the following:

• Do not install a pet door in the door! Flames can more easily spread into  the living area through a pet door, especially if it’s made of plastic.
• Does the door have a window? An InterNACHI inspector can inspect the window  to tell if it’s fire-rated.
• The door should be self-closing. While it may be inconvenient, especially  while carrying groceries into the house from the car, doors should be  self-closing. You never know when a fire will happen, and it would be  unfortunate to accidentally leave the door open while a fire is starting in the  garage.
• Check the joints and open spaces around the door. Are they tightly sealed?  Any openings at all can allow dangerous fumes, such as carbon monoxide or  gasoline vapor, to enter the living area. An InterNACHI inspector can recommend  ways to seal the door so that fumes cannot enter the living area.

Concerning items placed on the floor, you should check for the  following:

• Store your flammable liquids in clearly labeled, self-closing containers,  and only in small amounts. Keep them away from heaters, appliances, pilot lights  and other sources of heat or flame.
• Never store propane tanks indoors. If they catch fire, they can explode.  Propane tanks are sturdy enough to be stored outdoors.

  In summary, there are plenty of things that you can do to prevent garage  fires from spreading to the rest of the house, or to keep them from starting in  the first place. However, it is highly recommended that you have your garage  periodically examined by an InterNACHI inspector.

How a Sump Pump Works

A pit, known as a sump pit or sump trench, can be dug at the lowest part of  the basement floor to capture and contain any flowing water. A sump pump sits at  the bottom of this trench (or beside it) and expels excess water through a  series of interconnected pipes to a suitable discharge location. The pump can  sense water levels through a float that rises and falls with fluctuating water  levels in the trench. The sump pump becomes activated and deactivated based on  the height of the float, providing a simple, automated way to monitor and deal  with variable water levels.

Types of Sump Pumps

• Pedestal sump pumps sit above the water line beside the sump trench and are  not designed to get wet. Since they are not contained within the sump pit, they  can be accessed easily but are also very noisy. They cost roughly $60 to $200,  which is significantly less than other varieties.
• Submersible sump pumps rest underwater at the bottom of the sump pit, and  are much quieter than pedestal pumps. Their oil-cooled motors and tight seals  protect against water and dust and afford them a long lifespan. They can cost up  to $600.
• Water-powered sump pumps are normally used as backups and kick in when the  main pump experiences an electrical or mechanical failure.

Maintenance

• The pump must be kept clean and free of debris. The inlet screen prevents  the passage of dirt and other solid material from entering the pump, but it can  become overwhelmed. Cleanings should occur often for pumps that run constantly.
• Homeowners should make sure that the float is not tangled or jammed in one  position. A sump pump with a jammed float is useless because it will  not sense when it should turn on and shut off.
• The pump can be tested by pouring water into the pit to make sure it becomes  activated and expels the water. The homeowner should seek professional  assistance if the pump does not activate.
• Maintenance should take place annually, and when the home is sold.
• When testing the pump, no one should ever reach into the pit. The float can  be reached and manipulated with a household item such as a golf club (with a  rubber handle) or anything else non-conductive that happens to be lying  around.

Homeowners and Home Inspectors should check for the presence of the  following:

• A GFCI. There is considerable debate among home inspectors concerning  whether or not a sump pump should be connected to a GFCI. It is possible that a  GFCI can prevent electrocution, but it is extremely unlikely that a sump  pump will energize water in the first place. It is much more likely that a  GFCI will trip during safe conditions and deactivate the sump pump when it is  needed. A sump pump is among the most critical of all household appliances, and  its deactivation, especially if the tenants are not home, could allow  catastrophic building damage. Codes recommend that appliances in basements and  crawlspaces be connected to GFCIs to reduce the chance of electrical shock, but  this advice is often ignored due to these concerns over nuisance tripping.
• An alarm. Sump pumps can burn out, lose power, become clogged or misaligned,  or malfunction in a variety of other ways. It is valuable to have a warning  device installed that will signal water build-up. These alarms can alert  homeowners or neighbors of flooding so that it can be resolved before water  damage occurs. Alarms are especially important in residences that are not  occupied for long periods of time. Inspectors should keep in mind that, while an  alarm can be helpful, it is not a requirement.
• A check valve. This device is the same diameter as the discharge pipe  into which it fits and is usually a different color. A check valve should be  installed in order to prevent pumped water in the discharge line from  re-entering the sump pit when the device is turned off. Without this valve, the  pump will have to work twice as hard to remove the same column of  water, which causes unnecessary strain to the pump components. A check  valve can also prevent the rare yet disturbing possibility that a discharge line  connected to a stream or pond will back-siphon into the sump pit.
• A backup power source. Power outages are most likely to happen during  heavy rains and floods, which are situations when the sump pump is most needed.  For this reason, combined with the nuisance-tripping from GFCIs, sump pumps  should have a backup power source to rely on. A pump powered by a battery or the  home’s water pressure can also be installed as a backup. Installation of a  backup power source or backup pump is not a requirement, but can be offered to a  client as a recommendation.
• That the pit that is large enough for the pump. The sump pit does not need  to be constructed from any particular material, as long as it is solid and  provides permanent support for the pump. It must, however, be large enough to  allow the pump room to work properly. Some homeowners use a 5-gallon bucket as a  sump pit, but this is insufficient. For most homes, the sump pit should be 30″h x30″w. One of the most common reasons why  sump pumps fail is that the float gets jammed between the pump and the pit  because the pit is too cramped.
• A cover. The sump pit should be covered to prevent water from evaporating  into the home as well as protect the pit from debris and small animals that can cause malfunctions.

Discharge Location

The following is good  general information for homeowners:

• Water must be discharged at least 20 feet from the building.
• Water should not drain back into the house! Cycling water will place  unnecessary strain on the pump and can weaken the structure’s foundation.
• Water should not drain onto a neighbor’s property without their approval.
• Many jurisdictions do not permit pumped water into public sewer systems.
• Pumped water should never drain into a residence’s septic system. Especially  during heavy rain, a septic drainfield will become saturated and will struggle  to handle the normal flow of water from the house. Additional water from the  sump pump can damage the septic system.

In summary, sump pumps are used to remove excess water from homes that  would otherwise cause property damage. There are multiple types, but they all  monitor water levels and ensure that they do not rise higher than  predetermined levels. Proper maintenance and inspections will ensure pump  efficiency and prolong their lifespan.

Identify and Repair All Leaks and Cracks

The following are common building-related sources of water intrusion:

• Windows and doors: Check for leaks around your windows, storefront systems and doors.
• Roof: Improper drainage systems and roof sloping reduce roof      life and become a primary source of moisture intrusion. Leaks are also common around vents for exhaust or plumbing, rooftop air-conditioning units, or other specialized equipment.
• Foundation and exterior walls: Seal any cracks and holes in exterior walls, joints and foundations. These often develop as a naturally occurring byproduct of differential soil settlement.
• Plumbing: Check for leaking plumbing fixtures, dripping pipes      (including fire sprinkler systems), clogged drains (both interior and exterior), defective water drainage systems and damaged manufacturing equipment.
• Ventilation, heating and air conditioning (HVAC) systems: Numerous types, some very sophisticated, are a crucial component to maintaining a healthy, comfortable work environment. They are comprised of a number of components(including chilled water piping and condensation drains) that can directly contribute to excessive moisture in the work environment. In addition, in humid climates, one of the functions of the system is to reduce the ambient air moisture level (relative humidity) throughout the building. An improperly operating HVAC system will not perform this function.

Prevent Water Intrusion Through Good Inspection and Maintenance Programs

Hire a qualified InterNACHI inspector to perform an inspection of the following elements of your building to ensure that they remain in good condition:

• Flashings and sealants: Flashing, which is typically a thin metal strip found around doors, windows and roofs, are designed to prevent water intrusion in spaces where two building materials come together. Sealants and caulking are specifically applied to prevent moisture intrusion at building joints. Both must be maintained and in good condition.
• Vents: All vents should have appropriate hoods, exhaust to      the exterior, and be in good working order.
• Review the use of manufacturing equipment that may include water for processing or cooling. Ensure wastewater drains adequately away, with no spillage. Check for condensation around hot or cold materials or heat-transfer equipment.
• HVAC systems are much more complicated in commercial buildings. Check for leakage in supply and return water lines, pumps, air handlers and other components. Drain lines should be clean and clear of obstructions. Ductwork should be insulated to prevent condensation on exterior surfaces.
• Humidity: Except in specialized facilities, the relative      humidity in your building should be between 30% and 50%. Condensation on windows, wet stains on walls and ceilings, and musty smells are signs that relative humidity may be high. If you are concerned about the humidity level in your building, consult with a mechanical engineer, contractor or      air-conditioning repair company to determine if your HVAC system is properly sized and in good working order. A mechanical engineer should be consulted when renovations to interior spaces take place.
• Moist areas: Regularly clean off, then dry all surfaces where moisture frequently collects.
• Expansion joints: Expansion joints are materials between bricks, pipes and other building materials that absorb movement. If expansion joints are not in good condition, water intrusion can occur.

Protection From Water Damage

• Interior finish materials: Replace drywall, plaster, carpet and stained or water-damaged ceiling tiles. These are not only good evidence of a moisture intrusion problem, but can lead to deterioration of the work environment, if they remain over time.
• Exterior walls: Exterior walls are generally comprised of a number of materials combined into a wall assembly. When properly designed and constructed, the assembly is the first line of defense between water and the interior of your building. It is essential that they be maintained properly (including regular refinishing and/or resealing with the correct materials).
• Storage areas: Storage areas should be kept clean. Allow air to      circulate to prevent potential moisture accumulation.

Act Quickly if Water Intrusion Occurs

Label shut-off valves so that the water supply can be easily closed in the event of a plumbing leak. If water intrusion does occur, you can minimize the damage by addressing the problem quickly and thoroughly. Immediately remove standing water and all moist materials, and consult with a building professional. Should your building become damaged by a catastrophic event, such as fire, flood or storm, take appropriate action to prevent further water damage, once it is safe to do so. This may include boarding up damaged windows, covering a damaged roof with plastic sheeting, and/or removing wet materials and supplies. Fast action on your part will help minimize the time and expense for repairs, resulting in a faster recovery.

You probably take your car in to your mechanic for regular maintenance, but do you give the same kind of care to your largest investment: your home?

Keeping up on your home’s maintenance issues will help you identify problems early, which could help save you money in the long run.

Though many people think of a home inspection as a tool to use only when they are buying or selling a home, hiring a home inspector can be useful for homeowners who have been in their house for a number of years.

“Most people are too busy with work, kids and everyday life to properly maintain their home,” said Mike Chamberlain of MC2 Home Inspections, LLC in Plainfield. “Their number one investment tends to get put by the wayside and not taken care of. We can come in and do a home inspection for a current homeowner and let them be aware of some of the items that are being neglected because they are so busy.”

Chriss Cheatham with Homeworx Inc., Indianapolis, recommends her company’s “Home Preservation Inspection” every 12 to 18 months.

“We have yet to perform an inspection that the homeowner did not learn or discover something new about their home,” Cheatham said. “When we are performing an inspection for a homeowner, as much as anything else, they appreciate the inspection findings and utilize this information as input when prioritizing repair needs.”

Chamberlain said he frequently sees problems with homeowner do-it-yourself projects for which the proper building permits were not pulled or the work was done improperly, and often, unsafely.

“Electrical items and plumbing items are probably two of the most common violations that we see,” Chamberlain said. “People that watch a little too much HGTV get in and do electrical work themselves and will double tap on breakers (using one circuit breaker for multiple wires) stuff like that. Another one would be if the homeowner had an addition put onto the house and didn’t obtain a permit. That would probably hold up the closing (if the homeowner tried to sell) quite a bit until the permits are obtained.”

Cheatham said she often sees issues related to poor insulation and exposed moisture entry points.

“The most common maintenance items found during a home preservation inspection involve caulking around the home’s windows and doors,” Cheatham said. “Recommendations are made to make sure gutters are cleaned on a routine basis and that downspouts are free of debris. Homes of all eras benefit from regular and routine exterior maintenance to prevent moisture entry from creating larger issues and concerns.”

Just as with a home inspection for buyers, reputable inspectors will look at your plumbing, heating, electrical, structure and roof.

Cost will vary according to the size of the home and other factors, such as if there is a basement or crawlspace, but typically ranges from $250 to $400.

Angie Hicks is a Fishers resident and founder of Angie’s List, a national provider of ratings in more than 550 categories of service.

The over abundance of distressed homes on the market has certainly contributed a great deal to these numbers. So just what do these numbers mean? Well, from a home inspectors standpoint, it would appear to indicate a significant downward spiral in home maintenance. It also underscores the importance of obtaining a professional home inspection during the home buying process.

Falling home prices and equity are of great concerns to many homeowners and home buyers. Many people are simply putting off repair and maintenance work as they are not sure they want to spend money in this market situation.

If you’re worried about falling home prices, here’s some good news: Ongoing home maintenance can actually help protect your investment, ward off even more expensive repairs and make your home more comfortable for you and your family. More importantly it will also help to make your home more appealing and easier to sell. Many current home owners do not think about the ramifications of not performing home maintenance until they are ready to sell their home. It is important for all home owners to realize, 87% of all home buyers obtain a home inspection before finalizing the deal. If your home has been neglected, a potential buyers home inspection can be your worst nightmare.

A home is a very valuable asset that, for many people, is the biggest investment they will ever make. That’s why it is so important to keep up with repairs and maintenance, especially if you’re concerned about declining home values in your area.

Home maintenance may seem mundane, particularly when compared with large scale renovations, but it’s well worth the time and money. Routine maintenance protects the value of your home just as regular servicing prolongs the useful life of your car and regular checkups maintain your physical health.

What’s more, home maintenance can save you money since small problems that are neglected can very easily turn into much larger problems that will be much more costly to fix later down the road.

Here’s a list of some very basic home maintenance tasks that can help you keep your home in tip top shape:

● Replace broken or missing roof shingles to prevent water damage and extend the life of your roof, which is one of the most expensive components of your home.

● Check your heating and cooling system annually. Replace disposable filters every month or as recommended by your HVAC service technician.

● Hire a professional chimney sweep to inspect and clean your fireplace once a year. Keep the damper closed when the fireplace is not in use.

● Scrub concrete decks, walls and walkways annually with a bucket of warm water and baking soda, and a stiff brush or push broom. It is also important to seal your concrete using a quality silicone based concrete sealer every two to three years. This will help to prolong the life of your concrete as well as protect you from those unsightly cracks and heaved sections that will eventually pose a liability to you.

● Clean exterior doors, window frames and screens after the rainy season ends. An annual cleaning and inspection of the exterior portions of your doors and windows will alert you to moisture rot. Caught early, this is an inexpensive repair. Ignored, and this becomes a much more expensive repair.

● Clear your rain gutters of debris and repair any breaks once or twice a year. Force a stream of water upwards to clear a blocked downspout. Keeping your gutters and downspouts clear also helps to prevent foundation issues. When gutters are clogged with debris, rain water spills over the gutter and lands about a foot away from your foundation. Excessive moisture around any foundation will eventually lead to some form of foundation problem. Along with your roof, your foundation is one of the most expensive items in your home to repair.

● Empty your hot water heater annually or as recommended by the manufacturer. (Some newer models can be drained from the bottom to save water.) This simple chore can help your water heater last many years longer.

● Paint the exterior and interior of your home every few years or as needed. Indianapolis weather wreaks havoc on the exterior of your home. A fresh coat of paint can not only improve the look of your home, but also help to prevent moisture damage and deterioration to exposed wood from peeling/flaking paint.

Although it may seem as though ice dams are an unstoppable force of nature, they can be prevented. Attics with cathedral or vaulted ceiling areas that have been correctly incorporated into the overall building envelope usually don’t have problems with ice dams and icicles in the cold seasons. Through the use of proper insulation and ventilation techniques, ice dams can be prevented.

Here is how an ice dam forms:

1. A house has a buildup of snow on the roof.
2. The temperature outside is below freezing.
3. The temperature inside the attic is above freezing, thus raising the temperature of the roof itself to above freezing.
4. Because of the warm roof, the snow on top of it begins to melt from the bottom up.
5. The melted snow water tries to run down and off the roof.
6. As soon as the water reaches the edge of the roof it gets exposed to the freezing air.
7. The water refreezes as ice instead of snow in the gutters and along the edges of the roof.
8. As more melted snow water continues to run down the roof it keeps freezing behind and on top of the previously frozen run off, forming a larger ice dam.

How Do Ice Dams Cause Roof Leaks?

The melted snow water doesn’t immediately freeze after the ice dam has begun to take shape. Once the ice dam has built up, it creates a dam that traps the rest of the water trying to run off the roof behind it. While this trapped water will eventually freeze, it may take a while and during that time a portion of the shingles on the roof, behind the ice dam, are submerged in water.

Now of course your roof shingles are obviously supposed to protect your home from the weather i.e. rain and snow. However, most roofing materials are not meant to have standing water on top of them.

What Can You Do To Prevent Ice Dams?

First and foremost proper insulation and ventilation is the key. In the attic only the floor of the attic should be insulated, never the underside of the roof. In northern climates such as Indiana, an R value of 48 is recommended. That is approximately 15-18 inches of blown insulation depending on what type of insulation you are using.

Proper ventilation is also required. Outside air needs to be able to enter the attic so that the attic temperature remains consistent with the temperature outside. You can achieve this ventilation through the use of gable vents or soffit vents in conjunction with cap vents or a ridge vent.

In roof systems with attic areas below them, it is fairly straight forward to have a contractor that knows what they are doing to correct any problems as far as proper insulation and ventilation. However, roof systems with a cathedral or vaulted ceiling below them that have these issues are much more of a project to correct, but they can be corrected.

In order to have a properly ventilated and insulated cathedral ceiling the contractor must install baffles within each rafter bay before installing the insulation. These baffles allow air to flow between the soffit vents and the ridge vent which keeps the underside of the roof the same temperature as outside. If these baffles are not installed in your cathedral ceiling then the contractor will need to remove the existing sheetrock and insulation from your ceiling in order to properly ventilate the area. This type of project will be a bit more expensive than a simple attic project.

In addition to the ice dam issue, if your attic is warmer than the outside temperature you are also wasting lots of money heating that space. So basically you are paying extra money on your heating bill for the privilege of growing nice big ice dams and icicles that cause roof leaks and destroy your roof.

What Can You Do About Existing Ice Dams?

If it’s the middle of the winter and you have ice dams there are some measures you can take. First of all, if you don’t have experience climbing on a roof in the winter, especially with snow on it, don’t do it! Call a professional. Many roofing contractors work through the winter and often provide roof snow removal services in addition to their typical roofing services. This is a service many are happy to provide during the winter as this is typically a roofers slowest time of year. Again, please don’t try and do this yourself. Between icy ladders and slippery roof surfaces, it is a recipe for disaster for the inexperienced.

There are some products on the market that can assist in preventing ice dams before they form and melting them if they have already formed. You should be able to find a home improvement store in your area that sells a product that is basically a coated, heated wire that you fasten along the edges of the roof and then plug in when the conditions are right for the ice dams to form. These actually work pretty well; however, they aren’t solving the real problem which, of course, is ventilation and insulation issues.

Most home improvement and hardware stores also sell pellets or tablets that are designed to be thrown up onto the roof from the ground. These tablets supposedly will melt the ice from the roof as they dissolve into the water that is running down the roof into the ice dam. I have no experience with these products so I can’t say for certain if they work as designed or not. However, some people say they have worked for their ice dam problems. A couple of things I would be worried about is potential damage to the shingles from the chemicals these tablets are made of (salt is not good for asphalt shingles), as well as possibly staining the roof with those same chemicals. And even in a base case situation this product is still just a band aid until the ventilation and insulation issues are addressed.

Proper Roofing Techniques For Cold Climates

In addition to making sure that the roof has proper ventilation and attic insulation there is an additional level of security against ice dam issues and roof leaks that all responsible and ethical roofing contractors should be taking in cold weather climates with regards to pitched, asphalt shingled roofs. When a new roof is installed, an extra layer of protection called an ice and water membrane should be installed from the edge to at least 3 feet up the roof.

This added layer of protection will help prevent leaks if ice dams do develop along the roof edges. The ice and water membrane will not prevent ice dams, it simply is added security to help protect the plywood or OSB sheathing beneath the asphalt shingles and prevent leaks should an ice dam form.

If you are not sure that you have the right amount of insulation and ventilation in your attic, you can call a licensed home inspector or roofing contractor in your area to come out and assess your situation. A little preventable maintenance now can save you big bucks down the road.

Do-it-yourself visual inspection

Look around your neighborhood for other roofs being replaced, especially if the homes were built around the same year as yours. Chances are if your neighbors’ roofs are showing signs of wear and tear or are being replaced, it may only be a matter of time before it’s your turn.

When doing yard work, take a moment and look along the ground around your gutter downspouts to see if there are abnormal amounts of granules washing off the roof.  Granules not only give your shingles a distinct appearance, they also protect the asphalt against premature aging. Finding a small amount of granules is normal, but large piles of them may mean that your roof is losing its ability to protect against water and UV rays.

If you live in a two story home, while on the second floor of your house, look out a window that overlooks part of the roof and look for shingle wear and tear or missing shingles. Likewise if you are on a ladder cleaning out your gutters, you can conduct many of the same inspections. Cracks, rips, tears, curling or missing granules showing patches of black asphalt could mean it’s time for a new roof.

An additional area that is often overlooked in a visual inspection is what is underneath the shingles. Whenever you are in the attic, take a few minutes to look for problems such as water stains on the back of the wood decking or on the rafters. Also, make sure your attic ventilation system has free air flow. A balanced system of air intake and exhaust is essential. Often times, the air flow can get blocked at the soffit by insulation, which affects the performance of the system and can result in poor ventilation throughout the attic which in turn can lead to a whole host of issues.

A healthy roofing system is important for providing shelter for your family and for protecting your valuables and financial investment. Being proactive in monitoring the condition of your roof before being surprised by a leak will inevitably cost you less in the long run. These few easy tips can help you properly maintain your roof, which can result in long-lasting comfort, beauty and overall energy efficiency.

As Halloween approaches, so too does cold weather and the need to turn one’s attention to basement leaks, squeaks and other things that go bump in the night. Taking care of some of the following tasks can make for a safer and more comfortable home and help ward off “frightening” utility bills.

• Have your furnace inspected and serviced by a professional heating contractor. Beyond ensuring that it is operating safely, you’ll want to guarantee that you’re getting the best bang for your energy buck—especially with the cost of heating fuel. The pro will adjust burners, check the thermostat, change filters, confirm pressures and perform other necessary cleaning and maintenance.

• Leaking heat ducts can be a major source of energy loss. Look for separating ducts at joints and connections to equipment. Though duct tape is excellent for thousands of uses, sealing leaking ducts is not one of them. Pros use a heavy metallic tape or a paint-on elastomeric sealer.

• Insulation that surrounds heat ducts is an important part of their efficiency. If the ducts are old, the insulation may contain asbestos, which is a health hazard. The Environmental Protection Agency recommends that asbestos-laden building materials are best left alone when in good condition and not in a “friable” or crumbling state. If you believe there is reason for concern, contact the nearest branch of the American Lung Association for information on testing, repair and abatement. If your ducts are not insulated, insulate them. If they are insulated and the material is not firmly affixed, use a spray adhesive to properly anchor the material.

• Check for leaks at all plumbing pipes and repair or replace. Pay special attention to the pipes that are attached to the hot and cold ports on the water heater. They are prime candidates for corrosion that can lead to hidden leaks that will rot a water heater.

• Carbon monoxide is a colorless and odorless gas that results from improper combustion by fuel-burning appliances. In high concentration it is potentially lethal, thus earning it the title of “the silent killer.” You can prevent carbon monoxide in the basement be making sure that all fuel-burning appliances— furnaces, stoves, fireplaces, water heaters, boilers, gas dryers and the like—are operating at peak efficiency and are properly vented. If you don’t have a carbon monoxide alarm in your basement, install one! If you do, test it frequently and make sure that it is in good working order. In addition, all fuel burning appliances should be properly vented to the exterior, utilizing approved venting materials. Pay special attention to make sure that vent pipes are properly attached to appliances.

• Caulk cracks in concrete walls with a high-quality flexible caulk. Cracks and gaps that allow water to enter should be filled with hydraulic cement.

• Minimize water entry by installing rain gutters and downspouts that discharge well away from the foundation. Soil surrounding the home should slope away from the foundation to ensure proper drainage.

• Any water that does make its way into the basement should be collected by a sump system and pumped safely to the exterior. Check to be sure that the sump and pump are clean and in good working order. Excessive water buildup may require the installation of a more comprehensive water collection and ejection system.

• If your washer and dryer are located in the basement, replace rubber water supply hoses at the washer with braided stainless steel hoses to prevent burst hoses and flooding. Save energy and prevent a potential fire by disconnecting the dryer duct and removing lint buildup.

This Halloween we suggest that you dress up as a home inspector and give your basement a good once-over to be certain that it is well protected and that all systems are in good working order using our checklist. “Treat” your basement with anything less and you could end up with lots of expensive “tricks” to deal with sooner than later.

There’s a definite upside to sealing your house up well for the winter: you’ll stay warmer, with less impact on your energy bills. However, the downside is that those actions can negatively affect the quality of the air you’ll be breathing. It’s a particular concern because of the increased amount of time people spend indoors through the winter.

Heating, ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) systems have been shown to act as a collection source for a variety of contaminants that have the potential to affect health, such as mold, fungi, bacteria and very small particles of dust. According to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, indoor air can be two to five times more polluted than outdoor air.

“When you flip that switch on your heater, there is a lot of dust and debris – collected in the coils over the summer months – that either burns into fumes or gushes into the house through your vents,” says Aaron Marshbanks, board member of the National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA).

The removal of such contaminants from your HVAC system is crucial to improve indoor air qulaity. Plus, a clean system can save you money on your energy bill.

Further research from the EPA found that HVAC system cleaning may allow systems to run more efficiently by removing debris from sensitive mechanical components. Clean, efficient systems are less likely to break down, have a longer life span, and generally operate more effectively than dirty systems.

“Heating and cooling uses up about half of the energy in your home,” says Marshbanks. “But having a clean HVAC system can save you up to 30 percent in energy costs. That means you have better air inside the house, and are helping the environment while keeping an extra bit of cash in your pocket.”

The best way to determine if your HVAC system is clean is to perform a visual inspection. Before winter settles in, be sure to have these top issues that affect a home’s HVAC system checked:

1. Filtration – Low-efficiency filters, lack of a filter replacement program and improperly sized filters can allow particles and debris to flow into a home or building.

2. Duct work contamination – It is estimated that about 90 percent of HVAC systems more than 10 years old will have some level of insulation deterioration. Over time, the insulation fibers are distributed and blown into occupied spaces every time the blower turns on.

3. Dirty evaporator coil – Over time, evaporator coils become matted with dust and dirt. During cold months, the heated air can flow over the dirty coils and be distributed into your home’s interior space.

Not all households are the same when it comes to how often their systems need cleaning, either. If any of these apply to your home, you might consider more frequent cleaning:

* Smokers in the household.

* Pets that shed high amounts of hair and dander.

* Water contamination or damage to the home or HVAC system.

* Residents with allergies or asthma.

* Home renovations or remodeling.

The most effective way to clean air ducts and ventilation systems is to employ source removal methods of cleaning. This requires a contractor to place the system under negative pressure through the use of a specialized, powerful vacuum. For more information about HVAC cleaning and to find a certified and knowledgeable contractor in your area, visit http://www.nadca.com/ or www.angieslist.com. 

Autumn is invariably a prelude to falling winter temperatures, regardless of where you live. It might rain or snow or, as David Letterman says, “Fall is my favorite season in Los Angeles, watching the birds change color and fall from the trees.” Did you know there is only one state in the United States where the temperatures have never dipped below zero? Give up? It’s Hawaii.

Here are ten tips to help you prepare your home for winter:

1) Furnace Inspection

• Call an HVAC professional to inspect your furnace and clean ducts.
• Stock up on furnace filters and change them monthly.
• Consider switching out your thermostat for a programmable thermostat.
• If your home is heated by a hot-water radiator, bleed the valves by opening them slightly and when water appears, close them.
• Remove all flammable material from the area surrounding your furnace.

2) Get the Fireplace Ready

• Cap or screen the top of the chimney to keep out rodents and birds.
• If the chimney hasn’t been cleaned for a while, call a chimney sweep to remove soot and creosote.
• Buy firewood or chop wood. Store it in a dry place away from the exterior of your home.
• Inspect the fireplace damper for proper opening and closing.
• Check the mortar between bricks and tuckpoint, if necessary.

3) Check the Exterior, Doors and Windows

• Inspect exterior for crevice cracks and exposed entry points around pipes; seal them.
• Use weatherstripping around doors to prevent cold air from entering the home and caulk windows.
• Replace cracked glass in windows and, if you end up replacing the entire window, prime and paint exposed wood.
• If your home has a basement, consider protecting its window wells by covering them with plastic shields.
• Switch out summer screens with glass replacements from storage. If you have storm windows, install them.

4) Inspect Roof, Gutters & Downspouts

• If your weather temperature will fall below 32 degrees in the winter, adding extra insulation to the attic will prevent warm air from creeping to your roof and causing ice dams.
• Check flashing to ensure water cannot enter the home.
• Replace worn roof shingles or tiles.
• Clean out the gutters and use a hose to spray water down the downspouts to clear away debris.
• Consider installing leaf guards on the gutters or extensions on the downspouts to direct water away from the home.

5) Service Weather-Specific Equipment

• Drain gas from lawnmowers.
• Service or tune-up snow blowers.
• Replace worn rakes and snow shovels.
• Clean, dry and store summer gardening equipment.
• Sharpen ice choppers and buy bags of ice-melt / sand.

6) Check Foundations

• Rake away all debris and edible vegetation from the foundation.
• Seal up entry points to keep small animals from crawling under the house.
• Tuckpoint or seal foundation cracks. Mice can slip through space as thin as a dime.
• Inspect sill plates for dry rot or pest infestation.
• Secure crawlspace entrances.

7) Install Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors

• Some cities require a smoke detector in every room.
• Buy extra smoke detector batteries and change them when daylight savings ends.
• Install a carbon monoxide detector near your furnace and / or water heater.
• Test smoke and carbon monoxide detectors to make sure they work.
• Buy a fire extinguisher or replace an extinguisher older than 10 years.

8) Prevent Plumbing Freezes

• Locate your water main in the event you need to shut it off in an emergency.
• Drain all garden hoses.
• Insulate exposed plumbing pipes.
• Drain air conditioner pipes and, if your AC has a water shut-off valve, turn it off.
• If you go on vacation, leave the heat on, set to at least 55 degrees.

9) Prepare Landscaping & Outdoor Surfaces

• Trim trees if branches hang too close to the house or electrical wires.
• Ask a gardener when your trees should be pruned to prevent winter injury.
• Plant spring flower bulbs and lift bulbs that cannot winter over such as dahlias in areas where the ground freezes.
• Seal driveways, brick patios and wood decks.
• Don’t automatically remove dead vegetation from gardens as some provide attractive scenery in an otherwise dreary, snow-drenched yard.
• Move sensitive potted plants indoors or to a sheltered area.

10) Prepare an Emergency Kit

• Buy indoor candles and matches / lighter for use during a power shortage.
• Find the phone numbers for your utility companies and tape them near your phone or inside the phone book.
• Buy a battery back-up to protect your computer and sensitive electronic equipment.
• Store extra bottled water and non-perishable food supplies (including pet food, if you have a pet), blankets and a first-aid kit in a dry and easy-to-access location.
• Prepare an evacuation plan in the event of an emergency.

Your home’s number 1 enemy is water. Why is it the enemy? Because it causes things like mold and rot which compromise the entire structural integrity of the house, not to mention major health problems. That’s why we always want water to flow away from our house, from its roof to the foundation. Gutters and downspouts play an important role in that process. They’re supposed to collect the water from your roof and direct it as far away from your home’s foundation as possible, I suggest at least 5 feet, but it really depends on how close your neighbors property line is. Seems simple, but there are a few things that can get in the way of gutters doing their job.

Here are some examples:

Many of the newer homes being built have more than just a single roof. For example, there could be a roof over the garage, one over the second floor of the house, and smaller ones over rooms that extend from the house, such as a kitchen area or mud room. No matter what, there should be a gutter running along the bottom of every roofline on a house. Every gutter needs to have a downspout that drains the collected water away from the roof. You never want a downspout to drain water directly onto a lower level roof; this will cause water and ice damage to the shingles and roof deck underneath. It must always
drain into a lower roof’s gutter. You also never want a downspout to drain directly into drainage tiles below ground or near the foundation; this causes water damage to the foundation. In either case, the result is water coming into the house at the roof or foundation level. Not a good thing.

Let the pros do their job

Some people think gutters can be a DIY project. Most DIY gutters are plastic and come in standard sections of about 10 to 12 feet. Plastic gets brittle, especially in the cold, and will need to be replaced. That’s why aluminum is the industry standard for gutters. It never rusts, unlike steel, and it’s weather resistant, unlike plastic. We also want to use a thick gauge for all metal gutters. The thicker the gauge the longer they’ll last. When gutters are built in sections there’s going to be seams and seams can leak. And believe me, if it can leak, it will, they always do. That’s why I only recommend seamless gutters.

Professionals use a forming machine to construct seamless gutters custom sized to fit the length of any roof. It’s the only way a gutter should be done and it’s the only way to prevent leaks. Professionals also make sure the entire gutter is pitched correctly. Otherwise, water is going to gather and it won’t drain properly. You want something that’s going to last. You don’t want something you’ll have to replace after the first winter. Doing it right the first time means we don’t have to do it again. You always need to bring in the right people for the right job, so get a professional to install your gutters.

Maintenance

Before the temperature drops below freezing our gutters need to be clear of any debris. If our gutters and downspouts are clogged, two things will happen: First, any debris and water caught in the gutter will freeze into a channel of frozen muck. This will overload the gutter and eventually it will warp (remember, water expands as it freezes).

Secondly, water can back up under the shingles and cause ice damming and water damage to the roof deck. I know it’s a pain to go up there and clean out the gutters, so some people put it off for as long as possible. Not a good idea if you want to preserve the integrity of your roof.

I frequently get asked about ice damming and what causes it. It’s heat loss from the home that’s causing it. You know those icicles that hang off the gutters in the winter? A lot of people seem to like them, but icicles are created when snow melts, and then the water refreezes before it drains through the gutters. How can the snow on our roofs be melting if the temperature outdoors is below freezing? That’s because heat is escaping from the roof and melting the snow. So if we want to prevent ice damming we need to think about insulating our attics and attic accesses better and double-checking our roofs for any potential heat loss.

It’s important to protect our homes in the Indiana harsh winter weather. A big part of that protection comes from our gutters. If we do our job and maintain them, they’ll do their job and protect our homes from precipitation and water.

Remember, by thinking ahead and doing it right we avoid costly problems down the road. It’s well worth the effort.

Every dryer has an exhaust duct that lets the warm, moist air and lint from the dryer escape to the outside of the home. There are two major problems I’ve seen when it comes to the dryer exhaust duct. Number 1, the exhaust duct can —_and often does — get clogged. This clogging varies between types of dryers and manufacturers, and whether or not the duct has been cleaned regularly. (I recommend it be done at least once a year.) When lint gets past the dryer screen, it cakes the inside of a dryer’s exhaust and flex tubes. This problem is made worse through the use of some laundry softeners, dryer sheets and anti-static products. This buildup of lint reduces the performance and efficiency of your dryer — and this means larger utility bills. Not something a homeowner wants.

The second problem is more serious. I’ve seen a lot of cases where the dryer doesn’t exhaust-vent directly to the exterior of the house. Instead, it goes into an attic or crawl space. That is a huge problem, and will, without question, lead to mold and serious damage over time.

Ideally, you want to make sure the ductwork is as short a run as possible, but that’s often a problem if the dryer is poorly located. Sometimes, you’re going to need longer ductwork that runs through your home. That could even be behind walls and above or below floors — which is a big problem if there is clogging. In any case, you must make sure aluminum tape is used instead of screws to secure the ductwork. If screws are used, any lint passing through will get caught on them and any other protrusions and seams. That means it’s going to clog a lot faster than it should.

Longer ductwork will most likely require elbows, which also increases the chance of breaks and disconnects. If there is a disconnection or break in the dryer’s exhaust duct, every time the dryer is being used, there’s going to be moisture and lint blowing into wherever that break is located in a home’s structure. That means it’s going to end up in the floor joists, attic, ceiling, or garage spaces — anywhere the exhaust duct is passing through.

If there is a break, these areas are going to get wet. And what do we know about moisture? It causes mold. But there’s another more alarming problem here, other than the potential for mold, and that’s fire.

If the dryer’s exhaust duct is compromised, and if we have an igniter in the area where all the lint is blowing in, we can have a fire. Something as simple as a hot pot light would do the trick. Lint in ductwork could also self-ignite, given the right conditions. Add to that the plastic vapor barrier, which is found throughout your home’s structure, and we have a total ignition.

A secondary lint trap is something you need to consider if your dryer isn’t located next to an exterior wall. Why? Because the dryer-exhaust ducting needs to travel over a longer distance for the moisture and lint to escape. The longer the ductwork, the harder your dryer’s exhaust fan is going to need to work to push the moisture from the dryer over a longer distance. If it’s not strong enough, the moisture won’t make it to the outside, and the exhaust is going to get clogged with whatever lint is caught in the ductwork. This is why you need to get a professional to install a fan booster, which will give you that extra kick. The secondary lint trap protects the fan booster.

A lint trap is a square box with a window on the front. You can see the filter, corner to corner inside the box. It should only be installed by a professional, and it’s usually mounted on the wall or ceiling above your dryer. It’s attached to the dryer’s exhaust and filters the air that feeds into the booster fan. This catches any airborne lint in the ductwork that isn’t caught by the dryer’s lint screen. You need to remember to clean the lint trap at least once a month, plus your regular dryer screen after every use. The less lint accumulation, the better your dryer performs. Even if you’re cleaning the lint trap once a month, it’s a good idea to look through its window to make sure the filter isn’t full.

A lint trap prevents lint from getting into places it shouldn’t be, in case there’s a break in the dryer’s ductwork, so you’re not going to get lint in the attic. You’re not going to see it in the floors. You’re not going to get an uncontrolled accumulation of lint anywhere in the home’s structure. A lint trap minimizes the risk of fire — and to me, just makes good sense.

Much like a buyer-seller inspection, a home maintenance inspection is a visual examination of your home’s systems, mechanicals and structure. Everything from the foundation to the roof is inspected to ensure that everything is in proper working order.

We will inspect:

Foundation and Structure
Exterior components (grading, siding, trim, windows, doors, decks, patios, driveway, etc.)
Roof, gutters and downspouts
Attics, basements and crawlspaces
Insulation and ventilation
Electrical systems and components
Plumbing systems and components
Heating and air conditioning systems
Kitchen including all appliances
Bathrooms

Any defects or damage found during the inspection will be noted in our comprehensive home inspection report. The report includes digital photos of the inspection as well as recommendations on key items found during the inspection. The report will be emailed to you in PDF format within hours after the inspection.

MC2 Home Inspections is dedicated to helping you maintain your home with this valuable service. This way you can use your homes equity for more important things such as that much needed vacation, a new car or even your next home purchase, rather than extensive repairs due to deferred maintenance on your current home.

We also offer a wide array of other services such as:

Radon Testing
Mold Inspections and Testing
Well and Septic Inspections
Termite Inspections
Water Testing

Proudly serving the entire Indianapolis metro area. Call us today and experience the difference. 317-605-3432.

Much like a buyer-seller inspection, a home maintenance inspection is a visual examination of your home’s systems, mechanicals and structure. Everything from the foundation to the roof is inspected to ensure that everything is in proper working order.

We will inspect:

Foundation and Structure
Exterior components (grading, siding, trim, windows, doors, decks, patios, driveway, etc.)
Roof, gutters and downspouts
Attics, basements and crawlspaces
Insulation and ventilation
Electrical systems and components
Plumbing systems and components
Heating and air conditioning systems
Kitchen including all appliances
Bathrooms

Any defects or damage found during the inspection will be noted in our comprehensive home inspection report. The report includes digital photos of the inspection as well as recommendations on key items found during the inspection. The report will be emailed to you in PDF format within hours after the inspection.

MC2 Home Inspections is dedicated to helping you maintain your home with this valuable service. This way you can use your homes equity for more important things such as that much needed vacation, a new car or even your next home purchase, rather than extensive repairs due to deferred maintenance on your current home.

We also offer a wide array of other services such as:

Radon Testing
Mold Inspections and Testing
Well and Septic Inspections
Termite Inspections
Water Testing

Proudly serving the entire Indianapolis metro area. Call us today and experience the difference. 317-605-3432.