“Pott flies were the creation of Franz Pott, a German immigrant who set up shop as a wig maker in Missoula and soon found a passion for fly-fishing on nearby streams and rivers. Pott devised and patented a method of weaving animal hair into insect imitations that proved to be very attractive to local trout, and began a commercial fly-tying operation that continued for many years.

Each Pott fly came individually packaged, affixed to a card bearing the words “The Pott Trout Flies-Hand Woven Hair Flies,” in block letters, accompanied by Franz Pott’s hand-drawn trademark proclaiming the “Mite Family” and including Pott’s signature.”  Greg Tollefson @ Missoulian Weaving the Abdomen

~To save money.  ~To learn a new facet of the sport.  ~Enticing fish to your special, creations.  ~Satisfying your creative bent.  ~It links to your understanding of what fish feed upon and why.  ~Playing with tools, gadgets, materials, constructing, the process of it all.  ~The obvious, to catch fish, to feel ‘the moment’. ~More rare, to make money as a commercial tier, grinding out hundreds of dozens.  ~The challenge of something progressively more difficult.  ~Because your peers do, so it just seems that you should too.  ~Celebrating traditional aspects of the sport by tying classic patterns and to better understand the history/evolution of the sport. ~It provides balance. Fly fishing goes with tying; tying goes with fly fishing. What else?

Be it novelty, intrigue or curiosity, the blue thing has struck a chord of late. I have noted a few other tiers using blue abdomens and beads on their nymph patterns. This is just a fun concept to experiment with this coming year. The fly was constructed on a size 12 nymph hook. The bead is a blue, ‘metallic’ colored, plastic bead and there are several wraps of lead behind the bead in the thorax area. A dubbed abdomen of blended peacock and amber UV Ice Dub was wound up the shank and the thorax leg/wing effect is from a dubbing brush from Fly Tying Specialties. (Be patient with their website. Their products are outstanding if not yet shown to their full potential).

As a beginning fly tier, you need to watch for some frequent mishaps that will detract from your patterns. You want to recognize them so they don’t become a habit. Even ‘impressionistic’ tiers, like my self, need to correct these for correct proportions, realism and durability. I have included some images of flies I have tied. Often, I will tie a half dozen to two dozen of a pattern. And, as I have said, the first few will not meet up to what the pattern needs to look like. And, they show, via the macro lens, what I am doing wrong. I like to share my mistakes or slips so you can have a visual guideline to avoid.

Above, you see (left to right): left fly- the head on the fly is too large because of too heavy of thread (6/0) and the beard is too long. The center fly is a proportion issue with the bead much too large. The right fly demonstrates the eye of the hook being over crowded and the lack of thread wraps will likely cause the wingcase over the top of the thorax to come untied. Use the smallest thread you can; proportion the size of components; don’t crowd the eye.

In this second sequence left to right: the tail is advanced slightly too far forward. The tail material will likely get wrapped around the bend of the hook and the fly will not present correctly. Also, the tail is slightly too long and the tail is canted away to the far side of the shank. In the middle the tail is again slightly too far forward and again pushed to the far side of the shank by thread torque. The forefinger/thumb pinch must not creep up the shank. Also, the pinch must stop the thread pulling the material to the far side of the shank as the thread is pulled over the top and down. Lastly, materials must be tied in along the shank and as lean as possible to avoid all the materials tied in at one point over the barb. This results in the ‘fat ass’ problem and prohibits the gradual taper toward the front.

Right size thread, small rear end, don’t crowd the eye, proportionment of materials, tail over the barb. These are common mistakes that hinder the start of the fly or the finish.

Common sense, but just a reminder, to avoid eye strain and for fire safety: have a back drop that is neutral in color and does not compete with your eye’s focus as you tie. This is important to avoid eye fatigue and poor tying. Pick light green or tan. The color should absorb the glare of  your lamp. Look at your vise and the point at which you insert the hook. What is behind it? This is the focal point where nothing in back should distract or cause focus competition. The neutral color or back drop must extend into this visual area to relieve your eyes and allow you to only focus on the jaws of the vise.

The lamp you use must provide direct, bright illumination. You cannot sustain comfortable tying with overhead lighting from the ceiling. The light-lamp must vent off heat through the hood. It has to have a safe cord that can withstand heat. The base must have a sturdy pedestal or clamp. Your tying station must allow for this lamp: shop, garage work station; kitchen table, dining room table. Keep the light down so that it does not glare into your eyes. I have had cords melt, hoods and top switches fry and cheap plastic clamps fracture.

Imagine a commercial tier and their comfortable set up. At least match their lighting and backdrop and you will enjoy tying as the pleasurable diversion it is, for the recreational tier.

Enjoyable, simple, creative to tie. The possibilities are endless. The hook style is my choice and by no means the only one to use. Also, the bead is not required, other than I like them for getting down on streams. Go ahead, lose yourself to some reckless, unbridled tying with pupa’s. Now, these patterns are not necessarily a pupa, per se, in entomological terms, but more in fly tying terms. They could be an emerging phase or nymphal or whatever, depending upon where and how you are presenting them. They are not confined to the Caddis realm.

A couple interesting pieces at GFF re rigging the Diawl Bach (Little Devil) and Buzzers on a reservoir-loch-lake near you. It is a bit early for many of us either because of ice or regs. But, for others it is a timely impetus to brave the cold winds and waves. A bung is a word for a strike indicator. Defined as a:  ‘A kind of plug or cork..’  My mom had a much different and derisive use of bung coupled with hole aimed at those she shook her fist at (she was a feisty, old German women): ‘a cork or other stopper for the hole in a barrel, cask, or keg; a bunghole’. I know. I just launched into that when I saw the GFF reference to bung for a strike indicator. I hadn’t considered the word in years. I think I will use indicator, even bobber.

A. Ferguson commented at SB re a previous post on his slick, slender buzzer pattern. So, given the piece by GFF re slender, chrionomid-buzzer patterns we’ll show this excellent tutorial (SBS: Step By Step) again “The Electro Static Buzzer SBS”.

Many in B.C. will take exception with my comment, and I don’t blame you, but the seemingly definitive experts on fishing chironomids are the Brits. Different techniques perhaps? Perhaps not. Either way, good to study the techniques and patterns from the lochs and reservoirs.

Dubbing Tools (SwittersB)

Over the last few years, dubbing nymphs (abdomen/thorax) has given way to more segmented, leaner abdomens with the thorax having some dubbing behind the ubiquitous bead head. That said, a bristly, impressionistic nymph/emerger pattern still holds my imagination. True, segmentation does suggest a realistic, recognizable image for the fish. But, that movement of fibers and hairs encased in bubbles speaks to a succulent morsel as well.

Whether one twists dubbing onto a single strand of tying thread, splits the thread and inserts dubbing, creates a dubbing loop (with the above tools) or builds your own dubbing brushes, the dubbed nymph body is suggestive of life.

It is easy to build, in some instances, too thick of a body. It is necessary to study the four types of mayfly nymphs (swimmer, crawler, clinger, burrower) and see how they relate to the nymphs you will try to copy. Match the thickness of the abdomen and thorax as appropriate to the type of mayfly nymphs.

Study the Caddis pupa’s, the Stonefly Nymphs, the Dragon Fly Nymphs, Scuds and Sculpins. How could dubbing provide the suggestion of life beneath the surface, in the surface or on the surface (Ultra Fine dubbing for dry flies too).

I have highlighted this UK Fly Dressing Dubbing piece before. I reviewed it again and it is a lot of effort put forth and is still relevent. There are a few other sites that discuss dubbing, but none that I have found so far as comprehensively as ScotFly’s Effort (here too).

Dubbed Caddis Pupa (SwittersB)

“When I fell in for fly-fishing I went in deep. Along with purchasing a couple-a-three fly-rods, a vest, several pairs of waders, fly-boxes and bugs, along with an assortment of bells and whistles that go along with the sport, I also bought a fly-tying kit. You know, I wanted to not only catch trout with dry and wet flies, I also wanted to make the flies by hand; myself. I have problems making toast, so it’s unbelievable to me 10 years later that I ever thought I could do this. There should be a one-day waiting period on the purchase of a fly-tying kit so an angler can rethink his actions.” (more)

Would Be Nice To Be Organized Someday

Note the Wire Abdomen on this Duplicated Commercial Tie

or, with this Wired Prince Nymph

Wired Prince Nymph (SwittersB)

Green Lake Bait (SwittersB)

I had the good fortune to teach beginning fly tying for a few years. Here are a few observations from teaching and from learning from others myself……

Patience and focusing on self: in a group setting, which is the usual setting for beginning classes, you will become aware of those that seem better than you and those that are struggling. You may be quietly intimidated by the superior ‘beginning’ tier and, perhaps, feel the class is too disorganized because the poor tier seems to be struggling without much help. Often that better ‘beginning’ tier has tied before and fallen away and is taking the class as a refresher. So, yes, they do have a better grasp of proportions, tool management and pace. Don’t pay attention to them unless it is to see how you might improve your moves. Better to watch the instructor and focus on you. Slow, steady and patient. As for the poor tier, don’t fret about them. The instructor may be able to help them (in a smaller class or after class) or maybe not. Not everyone will go on to tie flies. Concentrate on you.

Distractions: That slower tier may slow the pace of the class. This can happen because the instructor feels obligated to bring them up to speed. This slows the pace for the better tiers, but this can happen. Also, the ‘know it all…wants to share it all’ beginning tier knows just enough to be verbally confident. This too slows the pace as the instructor takes time to engage the questions with self evident answers. It is up to the instructor to maintain a comfortable pace that satisfies the better tier while not leaving the struggling tier far behind. Don’t let these distractions detract from your enjoyment.

“Hmmm..really?”: ‘He had you do what? I am surprised by that.” Those that have been taught fly tying may take exception to how or what you are being taught. Don’t let this distract you. ‘There’s more than one way to skin….” holds true in fly tying. Techniques have variations. Part of the fun of fly tying is there are variations, hence a gazillion ways to tie flies. Learn what your instructor has to offer. A beginning class is just that, the beginning. A step toward years of learning and exploration. Take in what others offer, but seldom settle for there is only one way to do most things in fly tying. Keep your mind open to change and improvements in technique.

Perfection v. Impressionistic: I won’t advocate here re one style over the other. If you wander through this site you will note I am everything but exact. Often sloppy and inconsistent. My patterns catch fish. That is my yard stick. But, there is a degree of detail that a tier should strive for, if not perfection. I strive for consistency, even if less than perfect. I liken it to this. You have been asked to donate a dozen flies in a box for a raffle. Strive for those dozen flies to be almost identical in appearance.

Simplicity & Organized: Tying, like any hobby with lots of components, tests your ability to organize your tying tools and materials. May I say this..DO IT!  Keep it simple. Tie basic patterns for awhile. Perfect techniques. Put away your materials after patterns are done and before you break out other materials for a different pattern. Remember, I warned you. Larger Ziplock freezer bags and clear, plastic bins with tight lids are helpful.

Where to tie? I have tied in garages, basements, on kitchen breadboards, dining room and kitchen tables, lap tables and TV trays. Be considerate of others if you don’t live alone. Keep it organized. Watch those hooks. If you drop one, actually find it before it ends up in someone’s foot. More than once, I have had an annoying itch in my sock and have come to find a hook embedded in my sock or skin. Tie in one place with the ability to roam. By that I mean, set up that nice tying station somewhere and then have the ability to throw together that road trip kit for camping/fishing trips. Keep a pleasant backdrop so your eyes don’t strain to focus and of course have an excellent light on the tying surface.

Ok, that is just a few things off the top of my head. Asides, as it were, of fly tying’s odds and ends. Enjoy, be patient with the learning process. And, of course, the sage advice that once the proper techniques are learned, practice makes perfect.

Tube Fly Mounting Needle (SwittersB)

Good overall tube tying tutorial @ Global FF.

Aero Dry Wing by TMC

Aero Dry Wing Material @ Blue Dun Flies

I came across Blue Dun Flies via Simon Graham. This mayfly pattern is interesting. I am not sure if the proposed material: Aero Dry Wing, a poly yarn material, is readily available or any different than other poly yarn materials. The comments here and there re the material state it is hollow and straight making it appealing for flotation and handling.

Dave Wiltshire at the Fly Forums (UK) offers a source for this ‘expensive’ material at Flytek (UK). Perhaps a visitor can comment re this material’s qualities and availabilities? I believe Hareline & Wapsi may also provide this material.

Caddis Pupa Style Nymph (Czech w/o backstrap & ribbing)

I have mentioned dubbing brushes before. They are not necessarily superior to standard dubbing techniques, but they are a treat…like a special dessert now and then. I always buy some when attending the FFF fly fishing gathering in Albany, Oregon (March 2011, look for it). Fly Tying Specialties offer them in single, double and triple color options. In the pattern above, I use a 3 color variation. Tie and and wrap. The brushes never fail to please.

I didn’t tie this fly. I found a couple tucked away in a lake box. Must have purchased as demos or acquired somewhere along the way or my kid did. Either way the copper/orange synthetic/fur dubbing looks nice. I like the short tuft of marabou/chickaboo & Krystal flash for the tail. The Partridge hackle, as always, provides the nice barred look that somehow gives life. The hook is a size 12, straight eye often used for dry flies like the Stimulator.

SwittersB

A smaller bead head pattern that incorporates several attractive features: gold bead head, brown biot wings, filoplume/chickaboo fluff (like Timberline Emerger), peacock synthetic dubbing. The Prince Nymph and Timberline Emerger possess several features I like. The bead head was not standard issue with the original patterns nor necessary. I like smaller beads to assist getting the fly down. The fluff at the bottom of the hackle stem is excellent for providing animation on smaller flies. This fly is on a size 14 hook. I didn’t get much chance to try these, this summer, on lakes. The tail is a touch too far forward on the shank of the hook.