Just another development for the Obameister to delay or fail to make a decision on and thus to further endanger the free world and to usher in the destruction of our only real ally in the Middle East…

DEBKAfile Special Report

November 19, 2009

DEBKAfile’s military sources report that the UN inspectors’ October visit to Iran turned up dual-track progress in support of its nuclear weapons program: Feverish activity was registered in the production of plutonium at Isfahan as an alternative to the Fordo enriched uranium plant near Qom which starts up in 2011.

The IAEA experts discovered 30 metric tons-IS of heavy water hidden in 600 tanks, each holding 13 gallons, according to the report they handed in last week to agency headquarters in Vienna.

From the shape of the tanks and other indications, the experts concluded that this stock had not come from the heavy water plant at Arak but was imported.

Metric tons-IS measure the amount of energy a given quantity can release. The force and types of nuclear bombs are gauged in kilotons or megatons. The American nuclear bomb dropped on Hiroshima in World War II was equal to 20 kilotons of TNT. By this standard, the amount of heavy water discovered at Isfahan would be enough to make at least one plutonium bomb when the plutonium reactor under construction near the Arak heavy water facility is finished.

Other than its civilian uses, heavy water may be used to produce tritium, which intensifies the explosive force of nuclear warheads. The discovery of quantities of heavy water at Isfahan confirms the suspicions surrounding Iran’s nuclear program in three respects.

1. The long concealment of the Fordo site suggested to the UN inspectors that Iran has more hole-in the-corner nuclear facilities in the country. The discovery of a stock of heavy water further confirmed that Tehran is working hard to attain a nuclear weapon capacity on more than one track and at additional covert sites.

2. The IAEA wants to know who is selling Iran heavy water in violation of Security Council resolutions banning the sale or export of nuclear materials to Iran.

The very fact that some government or outside entity is willing to flout UN resolutions demonstrates that any further international sanctions would be ineffective for halting Iran’s nuclear drive, even assuming that President Barack Obama gained Russian and Chinese backing for such penalties. This backing has so far been withheld.

DEBKAfile’s sources report from Vienna that on November 10, IAEA director Mohamed ElBaradei sent a request to the Iranian Nuclear Energy Committee asking it to confirm the presence of the heavy water and document its origin with a full explanation. Tehran has yet to reply.

3. The presence of the heavy water tanks at Isfahan is additional proof that the reactor at Arak is designed for military purposes, not a peaceful installation as Tehran claims.

Lotfollah mosque (Esfahan, Iran)

Cargado originalmente por sana banana nana

Immediately opposite the Royal Palace of Ali Qapu stands one of the loveliest mosques in Iran: the Sheikh Lotfallah Mosque. It was started in 1602 by Shah Abbas I, replacing an older mosque, for his father-in-law, and it was thereafter used as the royal mosque until the Masjed-e-Imam was built. Although it lacks the size and grandeur of the latter, it surpasses it in workmanship and design.
Sheikh Lotfallah was born in Mess, which is currently in the Lebanon. Like his family he was a member of the Imami, or Shi’ite sect and was encouraged to take up residence in Iran under the Safavid rulers as part of the policy of promoting Shi’ism in Iran, along with other followers of this tradition from Bahrain. At first he lived in Mashed, where the second holiest of Shi’ite shrines is located, that of Imam Reza, but, partly due to the political instability of the area at the time and partly because of pressure from Shah Abbas, he took refuge first in Qazvin and then in Isfahan, where he seems to have acquired a son-in-law and patron at the same time. It was probably he who introduced the great mathematician, Sheikh Baha Al-Din Mohammed Ameli, otherwise known as Sheikh Bahai, who designed the famous sundial in the Royal Mosque, to Shah Abbas. Sheikh Lotfallah died in 1622.
The galleried colonnade on the Eastern side of the main square is cut cleanly and the main entrance, as can be seen here is set back. The effect is highlighted by the intricacy of the tilework panels on the exterior, and the offsetting of the dome, necessary for the correct orientation of the prayer chamber, also rouses the visitor’s curiosity.

The mosque is entered through the eivan above the steps. The covered passageway down which you pass then subtly turns you through the 45 degrees or so necessary to bring you into line with Mecca, before entering the sanctuary.

Chādegān (also Chadgun and Chadugan) is a town and the main centre of Chadegan County, one of Esfahan province’s western divisions (shahrestan).

 Dam and reservoir
Chadegan Reservoir on the Zayandeh River is the largest in Isfahan Province. It was formed in 1972 by the Zayandeh Dam. The dam was initially named Shah Abbas Dam after Shah Abbas I, the most influential king of the Safavid dynasty, but it was changed to Zayandeh Dam after the Islamic revolution in 1979. Since 1972, the Chadegan Reservoir has helped prevent seasonal flooding of the Zayandeh River.

After more than one year, Zayandehrood river located in Isfahan is full of water for 24 days. Everyone is happy and singing and following the water as it was coming to the river in the city. Isfahan, Iran, 02/11/2009. To see more, click on the photo below.

Poster zum 13. Aban

4. November: Solidaritäts-Demonstrationen in Deutschland
http://jkshalmani.wordpress.com/2009/09/16/1-demonstrationen-in-deutschland-protests-in-germany/
http://united4iran-frankfurt.de/index.php?option=com_eventlist&view=details&id=3:13-aban&Itemid=53

Politik und Wirtschaft

Uran-Deal I: Obamas Strategie bereitet Hardlinern in Teheran Probleme
http://www.csmonitor.com/2009/1031/p02s04-usfp.html

Uran-Deal II: Eine flüchtige Gelegenheit
http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601104&sid=aCx1hlMLClzc

Uran-Deal III: Innenpolitischer Streit hält an
http://www.roozonline.com/english/news/newsitem/article/2009/november/03//better-to-purchase-or-enrich-domestically-1.html

Mögliche Folgen verschärfter Sanktionen gegen Iran
http://www.nationaljournal.com/njonline/no_20091027_5502.php

Timothy Hamptons tödlicher Sturz war kein Selbstmord
http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/worldnews/article-1224377/British-nuclear-experts-17th-floor-UN-death-plunge-suicide.html#ixzz0VekxjhQ8

Syrien: Iran blockiert Libanons Regierung
http://www.google.com/hostednews/afp/article/ALeqM5jCTi83c15vLKgJZs7OznV2utGMgw

Führende Wirtschaftszeitung “Sarmaye” verboten
http://www.zamaaneh.com/enzam/2009/11/another-newspaper-banned.html
http://www.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/meast/11/03/iran.paper/

4. November: Polizei warnt Demonstranten
http://www.rferl.org/content/Iran_Police_To_Strongly_Confront_November_4_Rallies/1868005.html

Anleitungen zum 13. Aban (4.11.)
http://iran.whyweprotest.net/news-current-events/18118-how-jam-basij-two-way-radio-systems-w-o-scramblers.html

Studenten von Rudehen demonstrieren in der Mensa
http://www.bamdadkhabar.org/2009/11/_13_5/

Für Gleichberechtigung (Logo der Kampagne 1 Million Unterschriften)

Menschenrechte

Vorladung von Frauenrechtlerinnen
http://www.roozonline.com/english/news/newsitem/article/2009/november/03//members-of-1-million-signatures-campaign-summoned.html

Zahra Rahnavard fordert Freilassung inhaftierter Demonstrantinnen
http://www.rferl.org/content/Release_Jailed_Iranian_Women_Musavis_Wife_Urges/1867978.html

Isfahan: Pensionierte Stahlarbeiter demonstrieren für ihre Renten
http://www.peykeiran.com/Content.aspx?ID=8768

Naghsh-e Jahan Square means “Image of the World Square”, situated at the center of Isfahan city, Iran. It is an important historical site and one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. The square is surrounded by buildings from the Safavid era. People spend their free time in the square and have fun visiting and shopping there. to view more photos, click on the photo below.

In Isfahan still there are some traditional houses. One of them is the constitution house which belongs to Ayatollah Najafi and located in Neshat street, Isfahan. It’s a place where scholars and liberals in Isfahan gathered to compain against the foreign colonization, and Qajar and Pahlavi autocracy. to see more photos from this house click on the photo below.

In the middle of vast deserts and beautiful mountains there is a beautiful small village with lots of flowers, a waterfall and caves hidden in the desert surrounded by mountains.

The green and beautiful resort village of Niasar is located 28 kilometers west of the city of Kashan, Isfahan province. Niasar’s Sassanid monument is a domed building constructed over a rock at the highest point of Niasar village which can be seen from afar.

Niasar cave, with its entrance openings, located in gardens north of Niasar village, is a temple belonging to followers of Mitra (god of ancient Persia). The temple most probably dates back to the early Partian era. All but one of the chambers of the cave are man-made.The Eid-ul-Adha (Al-Adha feast) held in Niasar lends proof to the fact that people living in the region in the olden times believed in Mithraism.

“Sabzeh Meidun” which means Green square is located in Isfahan and near famous Jame mosque. Its Vegetable market is really interesting to visit and buy vegetables.
click on the image beloww to see more photos.

One of the traditional houses in Isfahan is Saraye Badie which is still under reconstruction but will be open soon. Click on the thumbnail below, to view more photos.

When I took these photos from Zayande river in Isfahan, still there was some water in the river and everyone in the river was trying to catch the poor fishes. Now, the river is completely dry.
Isfahan in the drought is really depressing.
Click on the thumbnail below, to view more photos.

Hakim Mosque is one of the most beautiful and peaceful places I like to go in Isfahan. Click on the thumbnail below, to view more photos of this set.

the first set of my pictures goes to a famous bridge in my city, Isfahan. Click on the thumbnail below, to view more photos.

By Phoenix Roberts

Whether your floor is wood, tile or carpet, an area rug can be a fabulous addition to your interior design. Area rugs come in many shapes, sizes and patterns to enhance any home decor. Knowing a few facts will help you shop intelligently, so you can purchase good quality rugs that will meet your needs and look good for years, decades or even centuries to come.

Area rug buying tips

You have two choices, buy for decor or buy as an investment. Area rugs can be a great investment item; some centuries-old Oriental or Persian rugs are antiques valued at thousands of dollars. (Yes, it’s a very long term investment!) If you’re buying an antique wool rug to finance your retirement, you’ll want to take extra special care of it–the condition 30 years from now will be a major factor in its value. If you’re buying accent rugs, runners or area carpets to compliment your furniture or make the house look classier, buy something you enjoy looking at and walking on.

The traditional designs, often called Persian or Oriental, sometimes called tribal, are frequently ornate floral patterns. Newer rug styles may be described as casual, contemporary, country or transitional; many are updates of traditional designs or inspired by those designs. Casual, modern or novelty rugs have no rules; they are whatever the artist envisions them to be, from bright geometric shapes to animal skin designs. Outdoor rugs are those designed to stand up to weather, sun and other rough treatment. There’s no right choice, except to choose the design you like, one that fits your decor scheme.

Be careful about rugs identified as Isfahan, Tabriz, Senna or other locales; these cities are centuries-old rug-making cities, but an unscrupulous or uneducated dealer could be talking about style, not actual place of origin. That said, good-quality, economical alternatives to real traditional rugs, in authentic styles and patterns, are being made in India and China.

Fit, of course, includes size. The basic rule of thumb is 18 to 24 inches of floor around the rug, meaning 9 to 12 inches or more between the rug and each wall. You should arrange the furniture before you choose the rug; you want furniture legs to be on or off the rug, not half-n-half. If placing a rug under a table or bed, get a rug that’s big enough: The rug should form a 12-inch border around a twin or full bed; 18-inch for a queen or king and 24-inch around tables. For tables, be sure the chairs will stay on the rug even when pulled out so you can sit down.

When you have the right rug, you may want a rug pad. Like padding under carpet, it makes the rug more comfortable to walk on, and it helps prevent movement on slick surfaces like polished wood or tile — a must-have safety feature!

Area rug fabrics

Silk is used in the highest-quality rugs; it is actually stronger than steel strand-for-strand and holds dyes like nothing else. Silk is frequently blended with wool for added luster and shine and a reduced price. Area rugs containing silk must be handled with special care–never clean it yourself. A lot of “synthetic silk” rugs are being sold; that’s double-talk for mercerized cotton or polyester, not silk.

Wool rugs have been popular for centuries because of their durability and luster — key elements in high-quality rugs. Wool lasts longer and looks better than anything except silk and wool is more affordable. Wool does come in different grades and, of course, the finer the wool, the better (and pricier) the area rug. Wool-synthetic blends are also available–good quality at a lower price.

Cotton is more barefoot-friendly and less costly than wool, but nowhere near as durable and does not have the same appearance. Wool-cotton blends are more affordable, but still look good.

Nylon or other synthetic fibers are very cost-effective, great for high traffic areas and may even be machine washable.

Area rug care

Isfahan Girls writes that most area rug cultures are also no-shoes-in-the-house cultures. Imagine walking barefoot over grass versus concrete. That’s how your rug feels about hard-soled shoes (especially high heels) versus socks.
The best rug cleaning plan is never to need it. Bare feet and socks track in less dirt, making life easier all around. (Besides, rugs feel better that way.) Don’t over clean floor rugs like carpets. High-traffic wool area rugs need an annual professional cleaning, plus the occasional thorough vacuuming. The rug less traveled may only need a good, professional scrub once or twice per decade.

Of course, accidents happen, especially with small children and pets. Urine is the worst–it doesn’t just look and smell bad, it can chemically damage your rug. With any spill, act fast. Blot up the liquid with towels, soak the spot in a water-vinegar mix or commercial spot remover (which you previously tested to be sure it won’t do more harm than good) and let it dry. Then clean it again with a mild rug shampoo and let it dry. If that doesn’t do it, call in a professional.

Speaking of professionals, if a rug is damaged, it can often be repaired, but this is not a do-it-yourself project. Go to a real rug maker for conservation and restoration.

Area rug terminology

Whole books can be written on area rugs, a practice which has a language all its own. For most consumers, just a few key terms are need-to-know:

Warp, Weft and Selvage

The rug design is made by weaving knotted threads onto a foundation (like the canvas on a painting): Warp are the threads forming the length and the end fringes. Weft are shorter threads forming the width and the selvage. Selvage is the side weave that gives strength to the rug.

Antique versus Contemporary

Antique rugs must be over 60 years old, though some dealers won’t sell anything short of 100 years old as antique. Contemporary rugs may feature traditional or modern designs, they are increasingly popular for modern decor; bright colors and unusual shapes give them a pop art feel.

Oriental or Persian rugs

Produced in Asia, these hand-knotted rugs have up to 1,000 knots per square inch. The terms are used synonymously by most people, though they may come from any part of the Middle East, India or even China.

By Jeffrey Brokob

There are numerous styles of Persian carpets. In fact there are over 300 different variations. The following is a summary of some of the most popular ones:

1. Tabriz – these rugs are known worldwide for their exceptional quality. They have many unique designs, but the typical pattern is filled with dense floral motifs, large palmettes, vases, or vivid hunting scenes or pictorials in the field. These patterns for Tabriz rugs can be with or without a medallion, and geometric designs are also seen.

The material used for the pile of Tabriz rugs are wool, silk, or a combination of the two. A beautiful blend of fine Kurk wool and silk is the most common in fine Tabriz rugs, with wool only used in those of medium quality.

2. Isfahan – this rug is hand knotted with wool/silk on a cotton foundation. It’s main color is Sea Green with a Burgundy border. The trademark design of an Isfahan rug is the sinuous curvilinear pattern. Patterns include pictorial and tree-of-life schemes, as well as the Shah Abbas field with its floral vines.

The knotting on these rugs should be fine and even throughout. The patterns should be symmetrical. The master weaver will plan a Isfahan rug design before any work is begun.

3. Nain – Nain rugs and carpets have curvilinear patterns. Their unique characteristic is their single medallion set in a blue or ivory background. They are woven on cotton, or on silk of varying degrees of quality, and are mostly beige and blue, with stunning silken highlights. The blues can vary from the deepest midnight to the palest sky. This rug is a favorite among collectors.

4. Kerman – these rugs tend to be large in size, typically 10X18 feet. However, smaller size Kerman rugs are available. Kerman rugs and carpets have many different designs. The kerman rugs traditional pattern is a floral or architectural theme in the main border and central medallion. This is typically contrasted with an open field of solid cranberry red, navy blue or other strong colors.

This is just a small sample of the types of Persian rugs that are available. There are numerous sites on the Internet that have full color pictures of each of these. Decide for yourself which one you like the best. Learn more news about Persian Girls who wants to keep in touch with boy friends.

I am experiencing a surge of brainstorming (I am told this is no longer a P.C word but I can’t remember what the new term is so no offence to anyone) in relation to the work I must complete by December for my assessment.

We’ve been told we should have something along the lines of a proto-type complete for that stage in our course but with all these new and exciting ideas I want to have more than just one project outcome.

I am very excited about creating the physical pieces that reflect the research I’ve been doing for the last year and have been particularly thinking about the space in which my work will be displayed,shown or installed.

There are many different ways a person can present their work and these have inspired me to think of all alternatives – not just as Plan B’s in case my main work doesn’t turn out how I wish but also as accompaniments.

At the moment I am contemplating having 3d shapes with patterns either on, around or made up from the patterns. It’s hard to explain this so I’ll leave it to when I have some pictures once I get experimenting with the shapes.

I have been doing some very bad sketches in my notebook in order to consider how lighting needs to be placed within a rectangular room for example. There also the need to consider where a person might enter from and how they may navigate through the space according to what first comes into their sight. This is very important because I am planning to have my work illuminate itself based on the viewer’s movement into the space. They need to be able to see where to go for safety reasons but it also needs to be dark enough for the light to make the right kind of effect when it comes on. I also need to consider if my work will be one large focul piece or made up of three or four pieces.

Page 1 of sketches and notes

Page 2 of ideas

These sculptures/shapes also need to fit to either the walls, floor or ceiling but with the light source either pointing towards or from behind them. Once again I won’t know which is best till I try it out. The light source itself is also something I am looking closely into. In my last tutorial Andy and I discussed sensor activated lighting and he agreed this may be the right thing for me to use. I’ve had a look at PIR lighting products and am trying to find something wireless which would be less of a safety concern as well as less shabby looking once up. Pricing is also a factor and how it might be fitted to walls/ceilings.

Another really cool idea I had was to have a sort of very large 3d hollow shape, perhaps made from card or papier mache (or maybe something a bit like stiff canvas or whatever is used to make lampshades), hanging from the ceiling but high enough off the ground to allow someone to pass under it. As they would come closer it would light up and then they would be standing beneath it. When they look up into the work they would see layers of shapes cut into the material and these would overlap so that the shadows and holes would create an ever complicated pattern. What I imagine in my head certainly looks quite spectacular. I wonder if I can actually achieve it.

It reminds me of the Muqarnas found in many mosques around the world, some of the most famous being at the Al-Hambra in Spain and at the Imam Mosque in Isfahan, Iran as seen in the image below. It is a very interesting architectural feature which I will just show you instead of trying to explain:

Muqarnas at the Imam Mosque in Isfahan, Iran. Image from http://www.musliminventionsthailand.com

And yet at the same time what I have imagined also reminds me of a kaleidoscope. As my youngest sister was sitting next to me as I jotted this down I asked her if she knew what a Kaleidoscope was. She’s ten years old and, well, her generation is quite different to mine so I can well imagine that they aren’t likely to be as familiar with a non-electronic/digital toy such as a good old kaleidoscope. And I was right, she didn’t know what it was so I did a quick search and had a look through google images as I explained it to her. I then came across this very interesting image of a human mirrored kaleidoscope:

Human kaleidoscope - Image from http://britton.disted.camosun.bc.ca/Duck_Into_Kaleidoscope.jpg

These kids are clearly having fun, and it means they are engaging with the space too. The effect is brilliant and I think if I could adopt this in some way but have my patterns in there too then it would just be sooo good. But I’m not sure if it would be over ambitious for me to go down this route, least of all because I’d have to actually build an enclosed space with mirrors inside. Or maybe I could make a cheap and tatty/plasticky version? We’ll see. But the use of mirrors is certainly worth keeping in mind.

All in all I am really getting into this and I knew it would be the stage I would enjoy the most. I may be thinking about some of the aspects of the installation a little to early but this is how I have always worked – I like to get down to the nitty gritty much in advance so that I have contingency time as well as other work in place if needed.

After seeing countless lists of places to visit before you die/before you reach 30/if you can log off the net and actually get out there, I thought I’d add my tuppence-worth with some slightly different places I want to visit.

If anyone reads this then feel free to comment and offer up other places. If I don’t know enough about your favourite place and I haven’t included it then give me reasons for it to be added, though I may already have been there or just not want to…

AFRICA:

1. Church of St. George – Lalibela – Ethiopia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_of_St._George,_Lalibela

A normal-sized church hewn from solid rock, rock from the ground. This is a statement of devotion I just have to see. Built in the early thirteenth century it’s still a major pilgrimage destination. Amazing.

2. Namib desert – Namibia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Namib_desert

A tustle rages on between this and the Atacama for the title of world’s oldest desert but this one seems to pip it. It’s achingly beautiful with petrified sand dunes and red dust – this one is well worth a visit to the Wiki page just to see the image below full size.

3. Great Zimbabwe – Zimbabwe

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Zimbabwe

This site lent it’s name to the country of Zimbabwe so it’s been somewhat hijacked politically but that ’s because it puts to rest the insulting and downright racist view that a lot of people have about African architecture. The conical tower is the pinnacle of construction here and a marvel in masonry. Constructed from round 1100AD the site is one of the oldest in Southern Africa and evidence has been uncovered of a trade netweork stretching as far as Arabia and China.

4. Nile Cruise from Cairo to Aswan – Egypt

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/River_Nile

One that really should be on everyone’s list. The Pyramids, Karnak (which I’ve wanted to see ever since The Spy Who Loved Me), Abu Simbel, some of the most important historical sites in the world, all linked by the one famous river. A cruise down stream would be a great way to see them all and I will try to get here in the next year or so.

5. The Dogon People – Mali

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dogon

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cliff_of_Bandiagara

I’d never even heard of Dogon villages until I was forced to mortar and machine gun them in Farcry 2. The digital version was so striking I looked into it and discovered what they were based on. This culture has a lot of specific, sexual and gender-based architecture. Fertility cults and the division between men and women is encapsulated in these strange structures, the granaries in particular. It seems more than a travesty to blow these up doesn’t it:

6. The East African Rift Valley – Kenya

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/East_African_Rift

Apparently the birthplace of Homo Sapiens, anyone want to find out where you came from? Yes please! Really this is something of a journey of imagination because the region must look almost nothing like it did all those millennia ago when we moved onto two legs and started turning tools to our advantage, beginning the rapid road to where we are now. To see the area is an ambition of mine that shouldn’t be too difficult with so much of the Valley accessible from Kenya.

EUROPE:

1. Portofino – Italy

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portofino

Part of the rugged Cinque Terre (‘five lands’ referring to five picturesque villages) section of the Italian Riveria, Portofino is a destination very well frequented by cruise ships for good reason – it’s a small and extremely beautiful cove filled with houses painted in every pastel shade. Probably not great for much more than a day trip but well worth seeing from the sea, from where you can take it all in in one go. I first heard about this place from someone I used to work with, he holidayed along that part of the Italian coast and showed me his snaps. From then on I’ve longed to visit.

2. Delphi – Greece

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Delphi

Referring particularly to the archaeological site rather than the modern city I wanted to visit here when I was in Athens but there just wasn’t time. With an ancient amphitheatre perched on the side of a mountain what’s not to love? I’ll get here on a future trip to the country.

3. Florence – Italy

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Florence

The home of some of Michelangelo’s greatest works and the world’s first art gallery, the Uffizi, Firenze absolutely has to be on any art lover’s list of places to visit!

4. Venice – Italy

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venice

Goes without saying really doesn’t it? Legendary.

5. The State Hermitage – St. Petersburg – Russia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hermitage_Museum

Another of the world’s greatest art repositories and palaces, and another building which is a work of art in itself! The Hermitage was founded by Catherine The Great and has grown from its inception to include several buildings used by the Tsars until the Revolution of 1917 when it was requisitioned into a state property and national treasure.

6. The Alhambra – Granada – Spain

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alhambra

Ok, this one’s an annoyance. It’s obviously so amazing that when I tried to go there in 2003 I couldn’t get a ticket because it was sold out, even in the local banks which is apparently where it’s best to get on-the-day tickets. I was on a small trip around Andalusia and tried to visit, to no avail. Book in advance!

Even from the outside this fourteenth century palace and fortress of the Moorish rulers of the Emirate of Granada is an astonishing place. Famous for its gardens and elaborate architectural details this has drawn masses of visitors since it fell to the Reconquista in 1492. From the hillside opposite it’s just beautiful and in part can claim to be one of the reasons I love islamic and moorish buildings, the majority of the sites I want to visit it seems.

7. Cordoba – Spain

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C%C3%B3rdoba,_Spain

Ta-da! Told you so, here’s another Moor-inspired choice and it’s a goodun. The Catholic cathedral was originally a mosque:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Mosque_of_C%C3%B3rdoba

The whole of the old centre of the city seems astonishingly pretty too though so I reckon there are at least a few days visit in this choice.

8. Segovia – Spain

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Segovia

Another stunning Spanish choice with Roman and Castillian architecture. The aqueduct is justly renowned because it’s bloody massive and the topography of the area makes the cathedral seem even more massive than it already is.

9. Carcassonne – France

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carcassonne

The fortified town of Carcassonne is, to me, the epitome of what a medieval walled city should look like. Dominating the area like a French Camelot it’s enormous pointy-turreted walls tick every box in picture-perfect fairy tale world.

10. Auschwitz-Birkenau – Poland

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Auschwitz_concentration_camp

Yes, like Hiroshima but far more harrowing. This really is something to make you think about what you are and what you’re capable of because I’m sure that every person on this planet is capable of deeds like this, given the right conditions. If we get to know what can happen then perhaps there is a way to avert crimes like this. Events like the Holocaust have not ended with the fall of the Nazi regime so there’s every chance or, realistically, near certainty that scenes like this will come again.

11. Westminster Abbey – London – UK

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Westminster_abbey

Right, I’ve lived in London my whole life and still haven’t been inside this historic site. It’s where all our monarchs are coronated and the stone is saturated with history. Founded 400 years before the Normans invaded the British Isles it finally got its stone form during the 1040s in the reign of the last Saxon king – Edward The Confessor. I’m sure it’s brilliant, must have a look!

12. La Tomatina – Bunol – Spain

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Tomatina

http://www.reasonpad.com/2009/05/la-tomatina-festival-of-spain/

This is one of those things you read about all over the internet. In honour of St. Louis Bertrand but with unknown origins this food fight looks like great fun so I must go along one year and join in chucking tomatoes absolutely everywhere. Bunol, where it’s held, looks quite nice too but is almost an afterthought on this one I’m afraid.

13. Oktoberfest – Munich – Germany

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oktoberfest

Mmmmmmmm, beer. This beerfest started in 1810 to honour a royal marriage and since then has grown to the epic proportions seen today. Oktoberfest is ‘the biggest party in the world’ though rather commercialised and rising in cost, but what the heck, it’s only for a day or two. Unless I don’t like my liver any more and fancy killing it off by going for the whole sixteen days? No, no thanks, even all the pretty German girls in traditional dirndl dress couldn’t convince me on that one…

14. Extremadura – Spain

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extremadura

Yes, yet more Spain! On the aforementioned trip to Andalusia we took a bus from Granada to Lisbon. We crested a hill and the scene that opened up before me was breathtaking. Ever since then I’ve wanted to re-visit the plains of Extremadura. We only skirted the southern rim but at that time of year it was an endless, glorious patchwork of purples, reds, browns, greens, oranges and yellows. I’ll need to learn how to drive for this one methinks. Minus the myriad colours this is very much how I remember my first view of the birth region of the conquistadores:

15. Ostia Antica – Italy

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ostia_Antica

Ostia is 30km southwest of Rome and operated as the Imperial capital’s port from around 300BC. The ruins are vast and severely under-visited so if you want respite from the throngs of Rome itself then come here to wander in peace (apparently). It’s the quality of the remains that gets Ostia onto this list. You can visit the public latrines, shop fronts, warehouses, and baths – all of which are remarkably well preserved. You get a real taste of what living in a Roman city was like. I reckon this would be a better visit than Pompei because of its crowds and the relative difficulty of getting there. Coming from Rome Ostia is a short rail journey, but an epoch away from somtimes overwhelming Roma. Or so I’ve read…

MIDDLE EAST:

1. Palmyra – Syria

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Palmyra

This is a massive and extremely important archaeological site partly dating from well before the Greek Empire. I’m not sure when this first came to my attention but I know I’ve wanted to visit for a long time.

2. Istanbul – Turkey

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Istanbul

Istanbul is rapidly becoming a must-see city for people avoiding the cost of the Euro in tough economic times. Now the largest city in Turkey, but not its capital (that task belongs to Ankara), Istanbul developed from a Greek colony called Byzantium to become Constantinople and the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire under Constantine. Later Constantinople fell to the Ottoman Empire in 1453 and became the Imperial capital for 450 years. The influence of this place cannot be underestimated yet to many people it’s an unknown and mysterious place mythologised in films like Midnight Express which certainly coloured my youthful impression of it! This is a city I reckon I’d better get to quite quickly or risk seeing it fully Europeanised when it does inevitably enter the EU in the near future. Trust me, this will happen, and we’ll all be richer and happier for it once the inevitable racial backlash calms.

3. Krak des Chevaliers – Syria

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Krak_des_Chevaliers

With many ingenious design solutions to the question of how to repel invaders except for I believe, providing a well, this is a case-study in how to build a castle properly. It may not be the prettiest but it was damned effective during the Crusades!

4. Cappadocia – Turkey

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cappadocia

I first saw this mysterious word being used as a restaurant name in Norbury, South London. For ages I meant to look up what it meant, when I did I was blown away. What an alien landscape, and fascinating culture this region possesses. One that apparently is best seen in winter and by hot air balloon… Churches and undergound cities carved into the rocks and phallic stone ‘fairy chimneys’ dominate the sights to see here.

5. Petra – Jordan

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petra

Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. That’s what I always think of when I see Petra. It was used as the resting place of the Holy Grail in that film and I can see why as an otherworldly city carved from rock. Just look at it! It’s not just this one building either, this is the most iconic of them though. The Nabataeans were a ‘lost’ civilisation until a Swiss explorer reported it widely to Europeans. Of course it had been known of since Pliny the Elder wrote about it but us Europeans like to forget things every now and then.

6. The Great Mosque of Samarra – Iraq

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiral_Minaret

I built this. Many times. In Civilisation 4. That game and Dan Cruikshank’s ‘Around The World In 80 Treasures’ inspired me to visit a lot of places on this list. The Spiral Minaret, AKA the Great Mosque of Samarra was once the largest mosque in the world. Sadly, it being in Iraq I imagine this will be a site I don’t see for many years. If at all. Sadly indeed.

7. Naqsh-e Jahan Square – Isfahan – Iran

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naghsh-i_Jahan_Square

Constructed in Shah Abbas’ reign the Sheikh Lotf Allah mosque on this square is a stunning example of Islamic art. Something I’ve already established that I love. The Square is immense and a good setting for this building. Thank you Dan Cruikshank for this one too.

AMERICAS:

1. Great Blue Hole – Belize

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Blue_Hole

This is one for that long-held desire to learn to SCUBA. The Great Blue Hole is the opening on the roof of a huge underwater cave. Just imagine the wonders in there…

2.  Kilauea – Hawaii

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kilauea

Volcanoes have always amazed me so to visit the one that has been spewing lava and extending Hawaii since the year I was born would be perfect.

3. Alaska – USA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alaska

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aurora_(astronomy)

Wolves, bears, eagles, glaciers, whales, aurora borealis. Some of the best things nature has to offer. Hopefully I’ll get to see it before it all either a) melts or b) turns into an oil refinery. Luckily with Bush gone from the White House and Palin resigning from the governorship there may be some sanity on that front.

4. Teotihuacan – Mexico

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teotihuacan

One of the big sites of Pre-Columbian America but majorly and unfairly overlooked. It was the centre of an empire pre-dating the Aztec’s and its influence stretched all the way to Guatemala. These ‘ruins’ are some of the most spectacular in Mexico, as the picture below demonstrates.

5. Machu Picchu – Peru

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Machu_Picchu

Probably on every list I’ve seen so it’s no surprise it’s on mine too… A four day trek culminating in a dawn view over the ruins sounds like a little earthly slice of heaven. Apart from the fact it’s often shared with a thronging crowd of tourists. I first got word of this incredible place when I was about 4 years old. The Mysterious Cities Of Gold cartoon was an inspiration that I’ve never lost. Who says cartoons, films and computer games do nothing for the youth of today eh? (do I still count as youth at 26? Bloody hope so but I doubt it…)

6. The Grand Canyon – USA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_canyon

Another well-regarded and often mentioned attraction makes it onto mine too. I need not say any more.

7. Nazca Lines – Peru

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nazca_Lines

How on earth were these surveyed? Nobody has a satisfactory answer but however it was done these are a work of artistic genius dating from anywhere from 200BC to 700AD. Beautiful geometric and animal shapes scraped into the desert floor. Gotta get up in an aeroplane or, perhaps absurdly as the makers did, in a balloon to see these.

8. Yellowstone National Park – USA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellowstone

This jewel of a national park consists of a supervolcano caldera and could explode at any moment, I should get over there as soon as possible before that happens because when it does it’ll destroy the whole park and cripple most of North America. It’s swelling already and some think it’s only a matter of time before an explosion occurs powerful enough to change the way we all live our lives forever.

9. Antigua – Guatemala

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antigua_Guatemala

I’d never heard of this place until I saw images like this. That’s all that was needed.

10. Monte Alban – Mexico

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monte_Alban

Another Pre-Columbian and Pre-Aztec site. Situated in a dramatic and dominant position on a hill overlooking a valley, it used to be a fortress town. I read a bit about it whilst doing an Archaeology course, worth a visit by all accounts.

11. Iguazu Falls – Argentina

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Iguazu_Falls

The longest set of waterfalls in the world, Iguazu falls must be a breathtaking sight.

12. Altiplano – Bolivia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Altiplano

This region includes the famous Lake Titicaca and is one of the highest and most barren places in South America. High altitude living should make this a fascinating destination.

13. Las Vegas – USA

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_vegas

Yet another regular appearance on this kind of list but just to see the legend would be worth it. The kingdom of tat and sleaze, sounds like fun! I especially fancy visiting the Double Down Saloon ‘The Happiest Place on Earth’ as it sounds quite far removed from the Strip and from their website, my kind of place. http://www.doubledownsaloon.com/

ASIA AND PACIFIC (except for Hawaii):

1. Samarkand – Uzbekistan

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Samarkand

Another Cruikshank classic, this time from the Silk Road. It looks like another winner to me judging from this picture.

2. Angkor Wat – Cambodia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angkor_wat

Angkor is one of those places most people have heard of but aren’t quite sure where it is. They know it from films like Tomb Raider but everything I’ve heard is that it’s better than anyone’s imagination. When you can find a corner to yourself it’s supposed to be magical. Construction at Angkor started in the early twelth century and partially abandoned in the sixteenth it retains its place as one of the most impressive Hindu/Buddhist temple complexes I know of.

3. Himeji Castle – Japan

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Himeji-jo

An ingeniously designed castle with so many ways to harrass and kill invading soldiers that it was never attacked! This was a prototype for many of the other castles in Japan.

4. Bukhara – Uzbekistan

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bukhara

More Silk Road action which makes me think I really should just do the whole route. A nice trip from London to Xi’an wouldn’t be too much hassle really. Pop to Baku and start from there I reckon. This looks like an absolute must see on that kind of journey.

5. Bora Bora – French Polynesia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bora_bora

Not. Enough. Superlatives. Expensive but stunning. If I ever have the money, I’ll visit here.

6. Mount Kinabalu – Malaysia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Kinabalu

A real biodiversity melting pot, Mount Kinabalu doesn’t require mountaineering knowledge to climb it. A good guide would be a must to get the most out of the wonders you’re looking at. Everything from orchids to rodent-eating plants abound here.

7. Varanasi – India

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varanasi

The Western take on death is wholly different to the Hindu one, as epitomised at Varanasi’s pyres on the Ganges. To see this kind of thing for real would make a lot of people re-think their outlook on life and recognise its transience. The full on nature of this city makes it somewhere I really have to visit on my own pilgrimage of sorts.

8. Guilin – China

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guilin

Beautiful karst formations surround the city of Guilin in China’s Guangxi province and it’s one of the sites I didn’t get to visit when I was in China. This is something I want to rectify.

9. Hiroshima – Japan

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hiroshima

A continuation on the theme set by Auschwitz, in order to see the worst things that people can do to each other you have to visit places like this. And then you have to see the recovery you can make. I suspect that visiting this city’s museums and monuments would be extremely moving.

10. Durga Puja – Kolkata – India

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durga_Puja

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kolkata

One of the most extravagant Hindu festivals which celebrates all deities at the same time, including characters from other faiths like Mary and the Christian saints. The city bursts into colour as the oversized models of these gods and idols are paraded to the Ganges and then dunked in. The effort and excitement surrounding this festival make it something I want to be part of, if only as a voyeur.

11. Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival – Harbin – China

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harbin_International_Ice_and_Snow_Sculpture_Festival

Every year incredible scenes from around the world are recreated in ice. The structures and sculptures are lit from within and externally to create a magical city of ice. It seems that every year it gets bigger and more ambitious too.

Antarctica

A vast continent, rapidly losing it’s icy cover. As a unique habitat this is something we should be trying far harder to save but I fear it’s already too late.

The Arctic Circle

Because, like Antarctic ice, it won’t be around much longer.

None of the pictures in this blog are my own, they have all been sourced from the Wikipedia pages noted.

The third city of my whirlwind tour to several Middle East countries took place in Tehran, the notorious capital of Iran that is also the largest city in the Middle East. More than 10 million people live in the city alone, with youths making up the majority. Perhaps I may be used to living in a small city but I find the place to be absolutely humongous. It is always best to ask for directions first before you venture out into the crazy urban wilderness known as Tehran, lest you be consumed by the unceasing traffic jams on the roads, confusing non-English street signs and the poor quality of the city’s dry air. It is advisable to bring along with you a good supply of lip balms and face moisturizers if you have sensitive skin, as well as a map of the city’s landmarks and attractions should you ever run out of friendly Iranians to serve as guides.

From Isfahan, we traveled overnight to Tehran via an 8 hour bus ride. This is a much better option than flying into Tehran because then you’ll get complimentary front row seats to the amazing Iranian landscape at dawn, which is filled with gorgeous mountains, quaint little farmlands, rolling hills and large plots of land and desert that seem to extend perpetually beyond the horizon. Having been living in a small, densely populated city for most of my life, such rare, ephemeral moments are a welcome sight for sore eyes. Isfahan was nice, but back then we only stuck to the inner boundaries of the city, never venturing out to examine other kinds of beauty that Iran has to offer, so the bus ride was an incredibly refreshing experience.

The Tehran leg of our journey was a little unconventional accommodation-wise. You might have heard of a phenomenon called “couch-surfing,” which is a unique take on the international hospitality exchange concept. The tour agency we had committed ourselves to had linked us up with a local Iranian family living in the city using the system, and we were to spend our remaining days in Tehran with them serving as our hosts and personal tour guides.

My group, consisting of six from my family plus a young Malay couple, newlyweds Jasmin & Naz, was to meet our couch-surfing host, Youssef, at a large square somewhere north-west of the city so the tour bus dropped us off at that point. Driving around Tehran some things that you are bound to notice include the symbolic Freedom Tower, Azadi Square, and the numerous anti-Western banners spouting anti-American slogans. The subliminal propaganda ranged from the infamous “Down with the U.S.A” banner to ones that depict a huge cross against a backdrop of the flag of Israel; others are harsher, proclaiming “Death to America” and “Death to Israel” as well as large portraits of various Ayatollahs that are either perched up onto billboards or hung along the side of buildings.

It was nearly noon by the time we reached the square. After saying goodbye to our guide Ihsan, we met Youssef, an unassuming young man in his early twenties, who had been patiently waiting for our arrival. To get to his house, we had to take a short 30 minute cab ride (we split into two cabs, with Danial sitting on my lap) and Youssef was insistent on paying for the fares. In the end, after a little persuasion from us, he finally agreed to pay the fare for just one of the cabs, while the rest of the group split the cost for the other. Youssef’s unwavering friendliness and generosity was typical of any Iranian you would meet on the street, much like the young Iranian girls I encountered in Isfahan.

We were welcomed by Youssef’s smiling parents, Ali Mohsen & Samira, and his brother Younus at the door, and together they helped us bring our luggage into the house. We were given a tour of the compound which was large and had six spacious rooms, three of which were for guests, as well as a beautiful garden and a small swimming pool at the rear. The place exuded a pleasant, homely vibe, it’s walls adorned with a ton of family portraits, photos and several snapshots of the Holy Ka’abah. I roomed with Danial & Raz in one of the private bedrooms on the second floor, while the women had two rooms to share amongst themselves. I was also relieved that each room had it’s own bathroom, so we avoided having to fight tooth and nail over who gets to shower first in the morning.

It was nearly two by the time we settled down and our hosts invited us to have lunch together. Youssef’s mother Samira had been waiting for our arrival so she had cooked up a storm. Delicious Iranian dishes were served, such as the traditional herbal soup Gormeh sabzi (consisting of mutton, parsley, coriander and a host of other herbs unfamiliar to a culinary-ignorant person like me), Fesenjān which is stew made from pomegranate, nuts and spiced chicken served with yellow Persian rice, a tasty pastry called Baklava made from some kind of sweet dough and consumed with honey, as well as a simple dish consisting of Basmati white rice peppered with sweet gravy, onion and meat. We helped ourselves eagerly to the food, famished after the draining bus ride from Isfahan. Danial refused to eat when I tried to feed him, probably because he was too exhausted as he had trouble sleeping on the bus the night before. In the end Youssef offered him a Ferrero Rocher to munch on, which the little monster accepted earnestly, and after he took his time unwrapping and devouring the candy, I brought him upstairs to our room where he quickly fell asleep on the bed. So much for chocolate being able to boost one’s adrenaline level.

The lunch was an excellent way for us to get to know more about our remarkably gracious hosts. Youssef was enrolled in the Amirkabir University of Technology as an aerospace engineering student, while his elder brother Younus worked as a doctor in one of the government hospitals located in the city centre. Ali Mohsen was a retired policeman, and he went to great lengths showing us numerous ceremonial photos, shiny certificates and various accolades that represented the “pinnacle” of his career. He also recounted to us his experience as a young Iranian who took part in pro-revolution demonstrations during the 1979 Islamic Revolution, specifically the infamous incident where they seized the American Embassy in Tehran and held numerous Americans hostage for 444 days. 

Samira, on the other hand, used to work for the International Red Cross as a young nurse, working in countries like Jordan, Germany, Greece, France and the former USSR. She had attended the 1972 Munich Olympics held in then-West Germany, and although she said she does not view Israel favorably, she condemned the Munich massacre which saw numerous Jewish athletes from the Israeli Olympic team taken hostage and murdered by Palestinian gunmen.

I found Ali Mohsen to be a jovial, boisterous man who always had a smile and a genial disposition about him, and his wife possessed an equally jubilant personality. Ali Mohsen’s family had originated from the north-eastern city of Mashhad, while Samira hailed from a mixed Azeri and Arab family from Khuzestan (she also spoke fluent Arabic, German and a smattering of Russian gained from working briefly in the former Soviet Union), but when I asked them if they would ever consider migrating to another country should Iran become too politically unstable, they were adamant about the fact that Tehran would always be their home. Younus was a little reserved at first, but as I would discover later, he too had apparently inherited his parents’ affable charm and engaging personality. They were a big-hearted, good-natured bunch, and I appreciated having the opportunity to be a guest in their beautiful home.

Of course, after that heavy lunch and having spent more than half a day on the road, we all became incredibly sleepy! My mother, Leilah and Naz soon made their way to their respective rooms for some much-needed shut-eye, while Aunt Nora, Juliah, Jasmin and me hung out with the brothers and Ali Mohsen in their living room to watch DVDs. Imagine my surprise when the title Schindler’s List caught my eye as I was going through their collection! Definitely not a movie you would expect Iranians to watch. In the end though we tuned in to Identity (starring the indomitable John Cusack) and Black Hawk Down, with Ali Mohsen disapproving the latter, saying that he disliked the way the “idealistic American heroes,” as he phrased it, were portrayed and blatantly overplayed in the film. He pointed to one end of the room, saying, “The real truth is there” while pointing to the other end of the room with ”But Hollywood is here. They are never one and the same.”

Youssef then shook his head, told his father something in Persian and said to us that despite whatever his father believed, he would love to visit and study in America and even come to our country one day. Also, Jasmin, as it turned out, was a former student from the University of Chicago where she graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in Economics two years ago, so she and Youssef swapped stories about college life.

Meanwhile I talked to Younus about how work-life was as a medical professional in the city, seeing that I had almost gotten into a rather similar profession had I opted to have followed through with my biology major. I also wanted to know if Iranian science was being used for things other than the country’s alleged nuclear enrichment programme, such as research & development in potentially lucrative fields like stem cells and genomics. Younus said research institutes are mostly centralized and tightly regulated by the conservative government, and admitted that it was challenging to find a job in the medical field, as each year there are thousands of medical students graduating from universities across Iran. He added that government jobs in Tehran were competitive, hard to get, and sometimes a little biased in favor of families that have affiliations with the government or the notorious Revolutionary Guards. “But how to implement meritocracy when democracy cannot even be trusted here?” he lamented.

When dusk came Samira had already cooked us dinner, which we all eagerly wolfed down without hesitation. This time there were Persian kebabs, an Arabic dish called Baba ghanosh I had encountered before in Cairo but this time served Azeri-style with a side of spicy tabbouleh (shake shake that tabbouleh), some mutton and fresh pita bread, and dessert being a unique rice pudding called Shol-e-Zard that I instantly fell in love with. Note to self: the days of take-away and surviving on instant noodles are over, hire an Iranian chef instead! A friend Maya commented that I looked a little plump after the trip, which I believe can be attributed to the few pounds I gained just by devouring Samira’s cooking alone. Heartburn! Forget Curtis Stone — this woman is the new Take Home Chef!

After dinner Maghrib prayer (shalat) was carried out. It is interesting to note that Shi’ite Muslims place a tiny stone (called the turba, from the holy city of Najaf) onto their prayer mat, so that when they carry out prostration (sujud) during prayer their heads touch the stone, which is considered an act of religious significance. Nighttime soon took over but since everyone was still a little weary, we agreed to stay in. The night was cool and you could feel a slight breeze wafting through if you opened the windows, although the atmosphere curiously carried that inconspicuous scent of petroleum in the air. The air quality can be capricious at times; sometimes the air is fresh, other times you might feel a little put off by the bad quality.

Samira and my mom were soon drawn into a discussion about baking and cooking and it was not long till they were in the kitchen, trading recipes and my mom telling her how to make Italian biscotti and Kelantan-style kuih makmur (Malay peanut cookie). Ali Mohsen showed the newlyweds various photos from his wedding with Samira, while Younus engaged Aunt Nora in a heated political debate about something related to the Islamic caliphate system and some egalitarianism-linked issue about women having to wear chadors in Iran, which no doubt made for a thorny and politically-charged discussion. Aunt Nora, unlike my mother, tends to be fiercely vocal about her fairly liberal views on a lot of things, and I see eye to eye with her more than I do with my own highly conservative parents.

Meanwhile Youssef brought me and the twins to a spacious study room, where the family also kept their music. Thick piles of CDs and old vinyl records were unsystematically stacked in a couple of cabinets in a corner of the room, while a huge phonograph resting atop a small desk dominated over the rest of the room’s furniture. A few discs and some posters were carelessly strewn across the floor, although Youssef appeared nonchalant about the haphazard state of the room.

“I want you to hear Iranian-made music.” he simply said, popping in a CD into the nearby radio. Music from an Iranian hip-hop artist called Eblis played from the speakers. Although the language used was Persian, the beat and melody sounded very much like the kind of generic hip-hop music that is being mass-produced and marketed for MTV these days. I asked him, “You do know what Eblis means in Arabic, right?” He just laughed. He also showed us old records he had collected; Bob Dylan, Simon & Garfunkel, Pink Floyd, The Eagles, KC & the Sunshine Band etcetera, although his all-time favorite musicians were Neil Young and Iraqi singer Kazem al-Saher. There were also other records by his father and Younus in the piles, amongst them a musty old CD by Cher! But, he pointed out, now that they have computers and widespread file-sharing, obtaining music was no longer much of a problem. “Although in ten, twenty years CDs will be very, very trendy, like vinyls.” he joked. So buying physical CDs now would be like a long-term investment or something.

I uploaded some songs from his iTunes onto my iPod, much of it from al-Saher and several Iranian rock bands, although for some reason the annoying “The Night Chicago Died” made it’s way on board as well. When he requested that I recommend him some artists I listened to, I gave him a couple of “easy-to-listen” country tracks from Brad Paisley, Trisha Yearwood and Blake Shelton, as well as some folk from Justin Rutledge, Ray LaMontagne and indie from Death Cab for Cutie. He seemed surprised by the relative youth of the musicians, telling me the only country he had ever come across was from Willie Nelson, and that he thought the music would be “much different and sound much more sillier” which got me laughing.

We woke up early the next morning and had a hearty breakfast. I ate a couple of hard-boiled eggs, some sweetened bread with grapefruit jam in them and drank home-brewed Iranian tea. Coffee is almost unheard of in Iranian cuisine but if you have an incurable predilection for coffee and absolutely must have some, you will have to either make a special request to whatever restaurant you are currently dining in, or take along with you sachets of instant coffee so you can secretly brew some using hot water. Coffee isn’t a banned beverage in the country like alcohol, but for some mysterious reason Iranians seem to have abandoned drinking it in favor of tea. By the time we finished our meal, we learnt that Younus had already left for work and Ali Mohsen had driven to a nearby mosque for some religious activities, so Youssef offered to take us to several “must-see” attractions within the city.

The modes of intra-city transportation to get around Tehran without breaking our wallets were the underground subway and metro bus system, so we all boarded cabs which drove us to a subway station. As far as public transportation goes in the Middle East, the infrastructure established in Tehran, while not without inherent flaws, is at the very least much better than some of the lackadaisical transport services offered in places like Cairo and Damascus. Getting around using public transport should not be problematic, provided that you know how to communicate exactly where you want to go when asking passing Iranians for directions. Taking the underground subway is a more frugal alternative as it is cheaper and convenient, compared to the irregular fare rates charged by some taxis (especially when they know you are tourists, plus you need to have a flair for haggling so you don’t always feel ripped off), although you will most likely never face a shortage of taxis on the streets of Tehran.

The bus system however, can take a little getting used to. Most times you need to take different buses successively to get to a specific destination (at times the place is only accessible by cars and taxis), which means it is absolutely imperative to do some early planning of your bus route lest you be stranded in some alien district within the city.

If it was even possible, I found Iranian drivers and motorists to be even more kamikaze than those found in Cairo! Even though streets tend to be always congested, Iranian drivers are masters in the art of dangerous driving; red lights and traffic rules are followed only when absolutely necessary. Crossing roads without dying can be considered a minor accomplishment of sorts. And while on the subject of vehicles in Iran, one thing you’ll notice about the cars on the streets is that a lot of them are old Peugeot models. You might spot a Suzuki or Hyundai but most likely the cars you’ll see are ancient and decrepit, thanks largely to American sanctions after the Islamic Revolution which effectively stunted the growth of the country’s car-making industry.

From the station we boarded a train that was bound south and arrived at our destination. Earlier on Youssef wanted to pay for our subway tickets, but we politely refused. Nearby there was the shrine to Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini, whom you would recall was the leader of the 1979 Revolution and “founder” of the Islamic Republic of Iran that we see today. So naturally, one would want to visit the site that pays tribute to one of the most important historical figures in Iran’s modern history. The shrine resembled a divine mosque and palace, and you could clearly see a large gold dome emerging from the center of the building with four ascending gold minarets at the four corners surrounding it. If you wanted to go in, there were separate entrances for the two genders. Shoes had to be taken off though before you enter, in line with the traditional custom widespread across Asia (which also extends to the homes of people).

Inside the place was packed with Iranians paying respects to their late leader, with an equal mix of men and women, some even with kids. The Ayatollah was encased in a large, beautifully-decorated box-coffin, with verses and passages from the Holy Qur’an elaborately engraved on it. Some of the women were crying, although their veils did not reveal much of their facial features, while most of the men appeared deep in thought, an expression of quiet reflection etched on their faces. For some reason I sensed a kind of tense electricity in the air, like as if I was in a place where I didn’t belong, like I was intruding on someone else’s time of grief.

We didn’t stay long however, and Youssef quickly brought us to Behesht-e-Zahra, a gargantuan martyrs’ cemetery that is within walking distance from the shrine. (This is also the place where Neda Agha-Soltan, the innocent young woman who was killed during post-election violence in Tehran less than two months ago and made headlines across the world, was buried, which happened months after I had left Iran.) Behesht-e-Zahra represents a very significant site in the mind of older Iranians — to them, this is the place where their brothers, relatives and friends killed during the horrifying war between Iran and Iraq were buried. Nearly four hundred thousand people died between the devastating 1980-1989 conflict, which started when then-Iraqi President Saddam Hussein invaded southern neighbor Kuwait and later on invaded Iranian territory.

Like the shrine, the place was filled with a lot of people mourning the dead. There are two things you will notice: 1) you will notice lots of flower shops near the cemetery as well as people selling flowers along the side of roads, 2) There are these so-called “children grave-keepers” who will offer to clean up and wash a grave for you in return for a very, very small sum of money. The sight of these kids having to spend their childhood this way, through the selling of flowers by the roadside and doing manual labor, absolutely breaks my heart. This should never be the way for any child to grow up.

We walked amongst rows and rows of gravestones that had the names of the martyrs engraved, some with pictures of the deceased and some had a box where the martyr’s family would place all sorts of things inside. I spent a good fifteen minutes, away from the group and with Danial in hand, walking amongst the gravestones and peering into the contents of some of the boxes. One had a smiling picture of a pretty young woman in traditional garb whom I could only guess was the martyr’s widow. When Youssef told me approximately how many soldiers and innocent civilians died during the war, which many Iranians still speak passionately about, the huge figure sort of went over my head. In my very short life I have neither experienced nor seen a war with my own eyes, only learnt about them in books and in the news, so wartime casualty figures tend to appear as nothing more than just generic statistics and numbers; each dead body as anonymous and nameless as the next. I felt like I was just some meddling tourist shamelessly gawking at the pain and grief of another people who have experienced the devastating effects of armed conflict.

A late lunch was next. Changing our money into Iranian currency was a little tricky. We thought having things like credit cards and withdrawing money from ATMs would help, but these apparently do not (or rarely ever) work in Iran. Only Iranian credit cards could be used to withdraw money from banks, but we didn’t want to burden Youssef so we used the moneychangers (who sometimes charge absurd additional commission rates) to trade in our dollars for Iranian currency. Because the United States has enforced numerous economic sanctions on Iran due to the ongoing nuclear programme, international banks and banks from our home country (considered a United States ally) cannot not be accessed in Iran. There are other alternatives to circumvent this, such as utilizing a complicated credit card transaction route through Dubai, but these usually charge additional commission fares and you could end up paying hundreds of dollars for their services. In other words: Bring lots and lots of hard cash and dollars with you if you intend to embark on a shopping binge.

We had lunch at an Italian restaurant which served ciabatta sandwiches, tender fillets, pasta and one of my favorite foods ever, risotto. A lot of the patrons were youths with rather liberal dress codes, and me and Juliah made friends with an Iranian guy called Ramadhan. He was having a meal with his friends, two other guys and two girls at a table nearby. The first thing he wanted to know about us was where we were from since we do not look Iranian. We talked a little about ourselves, and I found out that he was a student at Tehran University. I asked him he knew Tayyebah, the girl I met in Isfahan who also went there. He joked that it was hard to tell women apart there as they all wore chadors of the same color. Quite surprisingly, he then offered to pay for our food. We were surprised and wanted to tell him that he barely knew us! Of course we declined because it wasn’t appropriate but he offered again.

Later on I asked Youssef about it and he said they have a system called “tarroof,” where sometimes Iranians will either refuse money or offer to pay three times — Iranian hospitality dictates that one time is never enough. Funny how outside Iran most of us accept a vehement “no” at face value, while in Iran a proclamation of such needs to be repeated thrice before it sinks in. These people are just too nice, sometimes unbelievably so; perhaps this is why I felt so comfortable in the city. If you met the right people, you could even spend days in Iran without spending a single cent!

After lunch the women demanded to go somewhere for shopping so Youssef took us to what was called the “Grand Bazaar of Tehran” which he claimed was the largest bazaar in the world. Ihsan told us exactly the same thing for the bazaar in Cairo and the one back in Isfahan. We took the subway, the most accessible mode of transport to reach the place, although the train carriages were a little packed. Must be grocery shopping day for Iranians. As per the norm in Iranian society, men and women have to be sequestered for public transport. Carriages explicitly designated for women do not allow men in them at all, while women are allowed to traverse along the mens-only areas although they will usually just stick to their carriages.

I was standing there carrying Danial with Raz nearby while at the same time talking to an Iranian guy who seemed curious by our presence. Perhaps it was because Danial was sporting an L.A Lakers T-shirt and cap. Again, I was asked if we were lost. The guy’s name was Hedayat and we chatted for the duration of the ride. Fortunately he didn’t assume that Danial was my son. I found out that Hedayat was a trainee chef and his dream was to open his own restaurant in France one day. He was heading to the market to pick up some spices and other ingredients for some event he was involved in, although the way he dressed belied the fact that he was a chef! He had his hair spiked in a crazed kind of way and he was wearing a leather jacket, which was unorthodox apparel in contrast to the conservative attire of the older Iranian men in the train. I think this is the only way the youths of Iran feel they can do to rebel against the conservative Iranian government – at the very least doing so is not likely to get them arrested or beaten up by the morality police. I liked that rebellious element in them. Before we parted ways I gave him Danial’s Lakers cap because he seemed genuinely interested in it for some reason.

The bazaar was huge as promised, in size and in the crowd it attracted. There is only one thing that you must know about the place: it is too easy to get yourself lost. Pickpockets are also rife. The small alleyways and corridors within the bazaar are constantly congested, noisy and are tragically unventilated, and weave in just about in all directions which may very well extend beyond a jaw-dropping nine or ten kilometres in distance! A reason for the poor condition of the place is that the Iranian government places less importance on the development of the bazaar, instead preferring to channel their resources to other areas of the city, leaving the place preserved and largely untouched since it was established some 300-plus years ago.

However the bazaar is an excellent place to experience traditional Iranian culture up close and personal, where traders and shopkeepers hawk their wares such as cheap trinkets, Persian rugs and carpets, traditional spices and fruits, inexpensive watches, clothes as well as a variety of common everyday produce. There are also what I call “mobile salesmen” where people selling goods drag their stuff around, and at times their sales pitch consists of them grabbing you by the shoulder and shoving their products in your face until you find something interesting to purchase. Sometimes you will need to decide on a price for whatever you are buying, since the hawkers tend to overcharge tourists and you need to be able to sense when you are about to get ripped off. I enjoyed the haggling and the arguing with the shopkeepers, sometimes even getting away with goods at heavily discounted rates even when they were already cheap in the first place! I bought some caviar sourced from the Caspian Sea at a ridiculously low rate, although the shopkeeper did not seem to mind.

The place might be a little overwhelming at first especially if you are used to shopping at trendy, air-conditioned malls, but take it in good spirit and splurge. Most of the stuff is cheap, and the people certainly love it when tourists overspend. The beggars roaming around might get you a little depressed or make you feel a tad guilty, but it’s all part and parcel of the vibrant, bustling Iranian-style market environment which I enjoyed.

It was getting dark by the time we headed back to Youssef’s place. In the end he somehow managed to convince us that he would pay for our ride, perhaps because we were all too tired to argue. That night Samira cooked for us another fabulous dinner, so we proceeded to engorge ourselves shamelessly. After dinner Samira, my mom and Jasmin proceeded to the kitchen where they baked my mom’s Milo cookies and strawberry tarts, while the rest of us glued ourselves to the couch to watch 300 which, according to Ali Mohsen, was “thumbs down” since he thought the film did not portray the ancient Persians favorably. I wondered then how exactly a movie as violent and brainless such as 300 could ever portray anything according to expectations, much less be in line with historical accuracy.

Afterwards the rest retreated upstairs to their rooms while I stayed with Youssef in the living room. While waiting for the women to finish baking their cookies, we watched The Simpsons on DVD. There was this one funny episode where Homer defiantly purchases an RV after Marge starts channeling the Scrooge over some life insurance matter, and they have a huge argument after Homer and his RV friends swarm the Simpsons’ backyard, and in true hillbilly style, start creating a ruckus by singing the tongue-twisting song “I’ve Been Everywhere.” In Homer’s words: “What about me, Marge, what about my womanly needs?!” Classic Homer!

While lazing on the couch we talked a little about ourselves. I found that Youssef’s dream was to be a pilot someday. He expressed interest in working for the aviation industry in Iran, although he acknowledged that such jobs are hard to come by in the country. He did not know what he would do though, if his degree in aerospace engineering failed to get him a permanent job. “I could work for NASA.” he joked, but I sympathized with his plight. Iran may be a growing power in the Middle East, but in terms of economic progress, there leaves a lot to be desired. Oil wealth in Iran does not immediately guarantee wealth for its citizens. If anything, Iran’s apparent wealth in the precious natural resource has fomented growing resentment among it’s own people, who complain that they do not profit at all from it. There are a lot of jobless youths in Iran, according to Youssef, even though a lot of them have the sufficient educational qualifications.

When he asked me how things were for youths back home, I wasn’t sure how to answer. I wanted to say that youths like me often count themselves as among the luckiest in the world; we haven’t seen any riots, wars or political unrest found so commonly elsewhere. Students here have an excellent education system that can take them far as long as they persevere, plus our airport, airline and efficient workforce are frequently rated as one of the best in the world. I’ve been thankful for the opportunities my country has given me, so what can I say to a young person from another country who hasn’t had such opportunities given to him? I felt a tad guilty so I just told him, “It’s very good. You’ll have to come and visit if you want to see for yourself.” When I asked him if he was planning to vote for the election, he shook his head and said he would rather not participate. A new government, he said, would not solve anything as policies cannot just revolutionize the country overnight. Remaining apolitical was a way for him to preserve himself in case anything went wrong.

The next day we had only the morning and early afternoon for more sightseeing. Our flight to Damascus was scheduled for 10.30 that night and we had to be at Imam Khomeini Airport by 7. Youssef and Younus brought us by bus to some museums located 30 minutes away from the house. These museums were former palaces whose former resident was none other than Shah Reza of Iran. The place itself was huge, you could lose yourself wandering around the halls of each palace, admiring the paintings and expensive furniture scattered across the numerous rooms.

After that we walked to a nearby Square to board a bus that took us to Taleqani Avenue, where we could see the former American Embassy in the distance, surrounded by walls decorated with murals. Some of them had words painted on them, with propaganda like “The United States of America is the most hated state” and “Defy the wild wolf of Zionism” and referring to America as “the Great Satan” with a distasteful depiction of the Statue of Liberty having a skull for a head. Youssef had warned us to take photos as discreetly as possible, as the place was under constant camera surveillance by the Iranian authorities.

As we strolled along the perimeter Younus supplied us with more information about the place, describing how the embassy was seized by the Iranians thirty years ago, which started when President Jimmy Carter allowed the Shah into the United States for cancer treatment. The seizing of the Embassy and the hostage-taking of numerous Americans within it had eventually led to the U.S and Iran severing diplomatic ties permanently, and the incident was part of the larger Islamic Revolution that brought Ayatollah Khomeini to prominence in 1979.

Younus was concerned that we might get picked up by the authorities just by hanging around too long so we moved on and explored the area near the place, which had parks and even hotels. We then took a metro that shuttled us to a shopping mall, where we shopped around for a while before settling down for lunch at a Chinese restaurant. The place was a little crowded so we had to wait for ten minutes before there were seats available. I noticed one funny trend though: some of the people at the mall had little bits of bandages pasted onto their noses! When I asked Youssef he laughed and said they were “pretending.” Wearing the bandage on one’s nose in Iran apparently means that one has undergone plastic surgery, which is a way of asserting a person’s hip and trendy image. It is like a symbol of status or something for the people there. Which I thought made little sense. And crazy! If that is true, then the cosmetic surgery profession must be the only thing other than the oil & gas industry powering the Iranian economy these days!

After lunch we headed back to the house by bus to pack our bags, albeit reluctantly. Before we headed out the door Samira passed us some traditional cookies made of raisin and some baked bread she had packed for our journey to Syria, which was really touching. With heavy hearts we traveled to the Square nearby and waited for our original tour bus to pick us up. Before saying goodbye I traded e-mails with Youssef and we promised to keep in touch. He was adamant about the fact that he enjoyed our company and that should I ever find myself in Tehran one day in the future, I would always be welcome to his home. I told him I wouldn’t pass it up and that Iran, regardless of whatever major I’d be taking in university, would probably remain as one of my top choices for study abroad destinations, should I be presented with the opportunity to do so in the future.

Even moment of our time spent in Iran was memorable - the incredible hospitality of the Iranians we met, the personal tours of the city thanks to Youssef & Younus, the fabulous home-cooked food Samira served us…I could go on and on.

It is very sad to see such a heartwarming people be denied so many opportunities, be it due to the government or through the numerous sanctions imposed by foreign countries. Iran is such a beautiful place and I pray that my brothers and sisters there will be able to rise above this despite the suffering they have had to go through, Inshaallah.

More pictures after the jump:

(impressive Freedom Tower at Azadi Square)

(the stylish underground metro system)

(at least the government acknowledges that AIDS exists in the country)

(Shi’ites inside the Shrine of Ayatollah Khomeini)

(nighttime skyline of the city)

Pictures of some of the government propaganda within the city:

(anything goes on the streets of Tehran)

 (outside the White Palace located at the Saad Abad Complex)

(the lavish interior of the palaces)

See ya soon

Marge: Homer, stop reading that Ross Perot pamphlet.

Currently addicted to: Something mildly melancholic. While I am not a big fan of Billy, I find this track quite moving.

Walk a Little Straighter – Billy Currington

Architects: Amordad design developer
Location: Esfahan, Iran
Principals: Kamran Kopaei, Farshad Shagoshtasbi, Golrokh Kopaei
Owner: Sepahan beyond research (structure & mechanic office)
Project year: 2008
Photographs: Amordad design developer

The matter of design is an old residential building in the city of Isfahan which was supposed to be remodeled as an office.

Regarded to the traditional elements of Iranian local architecture, the design team tried to use contemporary synonyms of traditional materials and forms such as; hand-made bricks, colored glasses, wooden decorations, vitray and water; also the Iranian form of cross which was traditionally used to manage the divisions of space.

The concept of designing for the central void is derived from the form and application of traditional wind towers of desert regions of Iran. This void can lead the wind into the spaces in different floors around it. And because of applying the water in the bottom, it would also become cool and refreshed. In addition the void can also lead the natural light through the mirrors which are used in its body. These mirrors reflect the light to each other so that it can move down and get to the spaces even in the ground floor.

In the south elevation, there is a special frame of black steel which is used to control the direct and intensive light of the west in the evening. The façade is a itself is flat; but the fame is a little rotated; so there is a difference in distance between two ends of this frame and the surface of façade that cause this covering. In this façade the main material in use is hand-made brick in two sizes (90*7 – 40*7) and various colors. That can make it local and known.

In brief this building is a combination of modern spaces which all can be understood as the continuity of traditional architecture of Iran.

Source:

http://www.archdaily.com/20550/kamran-kopaei-amordad-design-developer/

Jørn Utzon (1918 – 2008) the famous Danish architect (on the left) and the creator of the magnificent Opera House of Sydney Australia, once said that he was inspired by the Isfahan’s architecture when designing his soon to be Australia’s landmark.