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We pride ourselves on having a long standing reputation for providing a high quality, reliable and well organised service. We hope these qualities are borne out in the fact that a high percentage of our work is repeat business with existing clients.

We are set up to take on both small and large scale developments, and will always strive to help our clients attain their programme, quality and budget objectives.

We are always interested in working with new clients, so should you be looking for a drylining subcontractor, we would be pleased to receive your enquiries.

The raw material used comes in the form of two halves of a quarter sawn flitch. That enables the symmetry of the grain pattern along the joint (book match).

On the left is a set of flamed maple. The outline drawn on it come for the supplier, as a quick way to find the face, the surfaces inside the “book”.
The edges to  joint could be as shown or could be the opposite ones, depending on which gives the most attractive result.
In this particular case, the blemishes seen on the upper side corners are best left out.

Once the edges to joint are chosen, they are first planned roughly flat and square, checking the result with a straight edge.

The surface to be joined being so small (the blanks usually come around 5 mm thick, with a final thickness of 2 to 3 mm), the joint needs to be perfect.

From now on the plane is used on its side, as shown, to maintain an even angle.

The brass dowels ensure that the two halves can be taken apart to check the joint and then reassembled, should more planing be needed.

On top of using a straight edge, the result is double-checked using a light table, the two halves placed so that the joint sits on top of the fluorescent tube.

Any gap will then show up.

The two halves are glued together, sandwiched between two boards, using three Sash Bar Cramps. The wooden cam clamps hold the boards tight together.

Mmmm, don’t seem to be able embed it, oh well, link’ll have to do.

I got hold of an Hare at the weekend, it had been de-fluffed and cleaned, but it was still pretty bloody. I think this is the third or fourth one I’ve done and I’m always impressed by how much the buggers continue to bleed.

All existing openings in the barn walls (ventilation/construction/bird nesting..) have been fashioned to take glass blocks. They add an interesting new aspect of lightplay.

The reasons for pipe ovality, which previously could affect users of all PE pipe coils, are explained on the all-new company website. Visitors to the website will find the site clearer, much easier to use and more informative. A new feature charts the company’s history in pipe system innovation since the 1950s but the site also keeps customers updated with the latest product developments, such as the low-ovality pipe coils, the comprehensive barrier pipe system Protecta-Line, Excel 3C clean, capped pipe coils and Secura-Line peelable pipe.

The current UK specification for PE potable water pipe is BS EN 12201, but this gives no particular requirements for ovality of pipe from coils. The obsolescent WIS 4-32-17 pipe specification required that coiled pipe should have an ovality of less than 12% after uncoiling.

PE Pipes are extruded in straight lengths but the coiling operation at the end of this process will tend to make the pipe more oval than it was originally. After uncoiling, the time to achieve relaxation back to less than the 12% figure has in the past been the cause of some significant frustration for both users and contractors alike. GPS PE Pipe Systems can now deliver pipe coils in dimensions 125mm to 180mm with an ovality, immediately after uncoiling, of less than 5%. This is a particularly advantage when electrofusion jointing is being used.

A lot of people at this stage say “yes, but organic chicken is so expensive. I can’t afford it.”

Complete bollocks. And we’ll prove it to you.

The ethical, and practical, and economical way is to buy whole organic (or at the very least, free range) birds, and joint them yourself. Is it worth the hassle? See for yourself. From two whole birds, we can usually get:

• 4 lots of breast meat 
• 2 lots of drumsticks
• 2 lots of thighs
• 1 lot of nibbles (wings)
• 2 lots chicken stock (2 litres)
• 1 lot of cooked chicken (around 150-200g, depending on the bird and how thorough you are) for pizzas, pasta, risotto etc.

Each “lot” is what we would use for a single meal for the two of us. Because they’re organic birds, they have more flavour (and hence you don’t need so much anyway) and actually have more meat in the thighs and body than you’d ever get from a factory chicken. So the cooked chicken estimate is probably on the low side. (Depends on how thorough you are … and how much you nibble as you go!)

Do the maths yourself. Even if you buy your organic birds from a supermarket (usually the most expensive option), worst case scenario you’re only looking at $60 for at least ten meals for two people. That’s $6 per meal. $3 per person! What else can you get for that little? Mince? (Do you want to know how that’s produced?)

But you can go cheaper than that, and be even more ethical. Our local organic chicken producer is Westwood Organics. Every Saturday, they sell fresh and frozen birds at the Canterbury Farmer’s Market. Cheaper than supermarket prices. And better still, you can buy seconds: they aren’t ‘bad’ at all, just a bit less attractive to look at (skin tearing, maybe a broken wing bone from the mechanical plucker, or a bit of bruising somewhere from not bleeding evenly during processing). This morning we bought four #16 birds (roughly 1.6 kg each) for the enormous sum of $18 each. And that’s their standard price! They also sell Free Range birds, which are cheaper than the organic, although I don’t know if they sell seconds of them or not.

Moral: wherever you live, check out your local Farmers’ Market!

Time consuming to do? Well there’s a bit of faffing around, organising knives and containers etc. And stock making is something we do separately (tomorrow, in fact – after roasting the carcasses and pulling off the leftover meat). But the actual jointing of the birds is remarkably quick to do, especially when you get the hang of it. When timed this afternoon, the complete jointing of one bird, from opening the bag in the sink to plopping the last jointed piece in a container was (drumroll please!) … 7 minutes.

Reckon you can spare that sort of time?

We thought it might be helpful to document the process, so it can now be viewed here. If the photos aren’t clear enough, or there’s something you’d like shown that isn’t there, let us know and the next time we do the business we’ll take some pictures to add.

Seriously, give it a go. It’s a small step that can change your life. You’ll feel chuffed to bits. And anything that reduces the number of people who think they have to buy gulag chicken is a win for the angels, right?

The softboard insulating strip fixed to the bearers made a big difference to minimising sound transfer between floor boards and joists.

NEXT STEP: GROUTING of walls on upper mezzanine area…later to become studio/study space/ sleeping area.
First we laid down protection on the new floor.
Then chopped out the loose plaster and existing mud grout.
South facing wall prepared for plastering.

East facing wall ready.

Temporary handrail.

Then the walls were ‘plastered’ with a slurry mix applied with the whitewash brush. It is a wonderful binder for the wall and really needs no painting afterwards.
South wall done.

Bendy ladder ready as scaffold for east wall. The patched areas are the positions of the floor joists from the old existing floor. We have lowered the floor by almost a meter which gives us better head room above and a less cathedral-like space below in the living area without detracting from the original voluminous barn space.

Cut-out in floor for stair.

East wall plastered.

As the plaster wash dries, the light reflects and brightens up the space, even though the window openings are small. The two rooflights make an enormous difference.

Looking down from the middle level, below the new floor to the living area.

Not all the walls will be plaster washed. Stone walls in good condition will be renovated and sealed with a clear sealer. Other walls we wanted reflective so that light would wash down the wall from the roof windows.

This feels like a major step forward, and more than we’d plan to achieve this visit!!!
Next time we MUST get the ceilings finished. The wood is ready and bone dry now. It’s first on the list for the next visit.

This is the heap of beams which will become the support structure for the new floor:
4m long and 230 x 80 in cross section. They were straight from the sawmill, wet and oozy and each weighed about 75kg! We left them for 10 days while we travelled south, and by the time we returned they had already dried substantially.
My job, was to sand them down. We are not searching perfection here…none of the original wood is planed and perfect, but we did want to remove the ‘fuzz’ and coat all the wood with a couple of layers of anti-beetle mootie.

I learnt the hard way about flying dust, so this time I took no chances and geared up from head to toe with the heavy ammo – mask, filters, headgear, gloves, jacket, ear plugs….!! Uli bought himself a router..his new favourite toy, to break the edges of the beams in keeping with the rest of the old timber structure…more noise and horrendous dust. The poor neighbours, they must love it when we return to SA!

It was all worth the effort – the ringing in our heads, the buzzing in the hands..the wood comes up so beautifully with just a little attention…here is an old oak beam, sanded and oiled and a new Douglas Fir beam sanded and treated and ready for installation!

The installation procedure went as follows:
Prepare the old stone wall behind the area at the level of the new floor and make new openings in the wall to support the main beams.
This included removing loose grout and old plaster, re-bedding any loose stones and filling gaping gaps in the stonework with a chalk, sand cement mix. The rest of the walls will be done later!
Then, we mixed a bucket of ‘slurry’ mix..looked a bit like whitewash porridge, but the recipe is 12 parts sand (we mix half fine white sand and half courser ‘yellow’ sand), 3 parts chalk and 1 part WHITE cement. It produces a beautiful natural colour which won’t need any paint and seems to stick hard to the wall. This slurry we applied to the wall with a large whitewashing brush and it fills every remaining hole in the wall, at the same time allowing the stone texture to show through.
In the meantime Uli was notching out the columns to receive the new beams.
At the same time, we painted the huge OSB floor/ceiling boards (engineered timber)boards, one side only.
All components were in place for the first beam to be raised and fixed into place, even our strength had improved moving all these beams about as we prepped them for installation.