Movie:Neelathamara

Director:Laljose

Story and Screenplay:MTVasudevanNair.

Music: Vidyasagar.

Lyrics : Vayalar Sarath Chandra Varma

Singers:V. Sreekumar and Shreya Goshal

anuraga vilochananayi athilere mohithanayi

padimele nilkum chandrano thidukkam

pathinezhin pournami kaanum azhakellam

ulloru poovinu ariyathienthe enthe etho anakkam

puthu vimukkam cheru mayakkam

anuraga vilochananayi athilere mohithanayi

padimele nilkum chandrano thidukkam

palanalay thazhe irangan oru thidukkam

ooo kaliyum chiriyum nirayum kanavil

ilaneer ozhuki kuliril

thanalum veyilum pularum thudiyil

mizhikal paayunu kothiyil

kanan ullil ulla bhayamo kanan ere ulla rasamo

onnay vannirunnu veruthe padavil

kaathirippu vingalalle kaalaminnu mounamalle

mounam theerille

anuraga vilochananayi athilere mohithanayi

padimele nilkum chandrano thidukkam

palanalay thazhe irangan oru thidukkam

puzhayum mazhayum thazhukum sirayil

pulakam pathivay niraye manasin nalayil

viriyan iniyum maranoo nee neelamalare

nanam poothu poothu kozhiye

eenam kettu kettu kazhiye

yamo yathrapoyi thaniye akale

rakadambin gandhamode

rakinavin chandamode veendum cherille

anuraga vilochananayi athilere mohithanayi

padimele nilkum chandrano thidukkam

palanalay thazhe irangan oru thidukkam

I came across this song for the first time on an evening when browsing over the tv.I suddenly got up to my computer googling info about the song and found out the results as described below.The film is a remake of the old movie of same title released in the year 1979 directed by yusuf ali kecheri casting ambika in the lead role.The new script is of M T Vasudevan Nair& the film cast solely new comers archana and kailash.

The film revolves around the character kunjimallu(archana). The song composed by vidyasagar is undoubtedly going to be a seasonal hit(especially among the youths) like the songs ente ghalbile,innale ente nenjile etc which are also composed on the same raga(kaapi raga).More over the picturisation of the song is beautifully sinked and apt.the song has certain usual touches(beats and notes) of vidhyasagar which resembles it to songs like aasai aasai(dhool),karimizhi kuriviye(meesa madhavan).one may also find it similar to the song kajra mohabatwalla(kismat) at times.

Throughout the length of the song the composer is able to captivate the attention of the listeners,the scenes does assist the song. Now coming to the singers, shreya gosal with her mesmerizing voice certainly did the job the way music director wanted.she is actually good in such romantic duets as always like that in munbe vaa(sillunu oru kadhal),uruguthe(veyil).the male part is handled by v.sreekumar,not so famous to all,i should say he is a find by vidhyasagar.he is the same singer who sang kanalukal aadiya(mulla).he has also conveyed the feel of this song nicely. though this song is only seasonal(like kangal irandal,ente ghalbile…..),the song will certainly be in everyone’s ears and lips at least for a few weeks and will find its place in top of the charts.

We have to understand the geographical features of our continent, about 5000 yeas ago, to understand what happened at that time.

 The Himalayas have been growing up all the while, and it is safe to assume that in those days, travellers could easily cross the region either way. The sentimental attachment of Hindus, towards Kailash and Manasarover is proof of my statement. If we have not seen the place, there will be no love for it. The description of the area as a green forest, in the Bhagavat Puran too confirms this view. Therefore, migration of people across the Himalayas is a distict possibility.

 The most intimate charactoristic of a people, is their language. Early Aryans had Samskrutam as their mother tongue. If today it is a dead language, it is because, those people were in a minority and were forced by circumstances, to forget it and use whatever was the language of the people, among whom they lived. The fact that European Aryans do not know vedas, shows that, they migrated before we composed vedic sutras. 

My children do not know Malayalam. Of course, they can talk in our language. Talking is not literature. To write in Malayalam, it is necessary to learn the script. So Aryans in India, forced their children to learn Samskrutam, in order to preserve their heritage and identity. Their early literature was the Vedas which, enen now, we learn by heart. All debates and writings were in Samskrutam. A poet who wrote in Malayalam was rediculed as half poet !

The Aryans who migrated towards the north and north west, were not so lucky, as we were in India.The fact that several Samskrutam words are transformed into the local language of the area only proves the Aryan ancestry of these people. Maximum similarity is in Hindi, even spoken Hindi. Samskrutham     Hindi            English

 ekam                     ek                   one

 dwayam             doh                  two

 thrayam             theen              three ( here the English word too is similar) dasham                dus                  ten (“decimal” is derived from Samskrutam) mathr                     matha          mother (derived from Samskrutam)

bhradru                  bhai              brother ( do )

Russian and German languages have many Samskrutam words. It was a German scholar who wrote Malayalam grammar!

 During second world war, a German scholar  met the King of Cochin, who was a scholar in Samskrutam, They started chit chatting in Samskrutam; the English Resident was scared. The King was asked to abdicate.

 Those Aryans who migrated to the peninsular India, accepted the local language, but continued to patronise Samskkrutam ,as there were no books in local languages.  Thus the conclusion is inevitable. Aryan migration is from India towards Europe. Why they did not go towards Tibet and China, is a mystery.

Sexual contact with the local people was inevitable. Hence, the Aryan features are dimmed and local charactoristics became prominent.

 Theoretically, we may say that north Indians are Aryans and others are non Aryans. In this, we ignore the people living in the hills, including the north east.

Davidians are a mystery. Unlike others, they have body hair, jet black complexion, teeth pushing the lips outwards, heavy jaws and stocky, short body. There is not a single Samskrutam word in Tamil which has only 26 letters. Malayalam too had no Samskrutam words. The numbers onnu, randu, moonnu, nalu, anchu, aru, ezhu, ettu, onpathu and pathu (one to ten) of Malayalam can be understood by people of all states in the south. It is a proof that Dravidian people are a distinct group. They are even earlier than the civilisation of the north.

Hanuman was impressed bythe grandeur of the Lankan capital, which seemed to be paradise in this world!

 Tamil literature was highly developed, even before English education spread in the country.

 Every day we read about new archeological discoveries in Tamilnadu.

LORD SHIVA- IS HE  A  DRAVIDIAN -ARYAN  HYBRID ?

 His appearance is singularly unattactive, as if he deliberately avoids friendship. Who will like to go near a person with a cobra on his head? He is kind to asuras, who are always fighting  the suras.
Vishnu is patron of the suras. He is sauve, well groomed and relaxed.  His followers, called vaishnavites, are strong in the North India.
People from the South, including Ravan, approach Shiva or help.
In Tamilnadu, the only area of true Dravidians, people are shivites. I doubt whether there is a single Krishna temple there.
In spite of their followers being at logger heads with each other, the two giants among Hindu gods, Shiva and Vishnu, are on very good terms. Once Vishnu assumed the guise of an enchantress. Shiva was so captivated by her charms that he ran after her, and had premature discharge, littering the world with the white metal silver. I read it in Bhagavat Puran. If you read it as a book, just to increase your knowledge, it is an excellent work, whose central theme is :” tragedy of life.”The innumerable number of stories are interesting and offer valuable lessons to the reader.
Vishnu resides in Vaikunth, nearer to the paradise, presided over by Indra.There, all are eating, drinking wines and enjoying the company of dancing girls. Why was Vishnu so partial to them is a mystery. And the two groups, the suras and asuras are descendents of the same parent, with two wives, Dity and Adity. So the story needs investigation by scientific historians. My hypothesis is, that the suras were uncompramising aryans, who conquered the whole of the north Indian plains. The weaker asuras went into the forests, came to terms with the tribals, and resisted the suras’s further advanncement into the southern peninsula. (Some similariy with the Naxal movement ?)  Both tried to befriend the Dravidians, called monkeys because of their black colour and unaryan features.
Shiva lives in Kailash, near Manasarover, unapproachable now. In those days, it was easily accessible. The way to Kalash is green forests, as described in Bhagavat Puran. So the Himalayas may be in their infancy.
Some food for thought !

Jai Nitai! While reading a book about Sri Haidakhan Baba last month, I learned that there was an ashram dedicated to him in Brindavan. I immediately became interested to visit the ashram so the following morning off I went to Brindavan for darshan. The ashram is in the vicinity of Lala Babu Mandir.

Haidakhan Baba, who is also known by many other names such as Kanchopi Topa Baba, is considered by many to be the same person as Mahavatar Babaji who initiated Lahiri Mahasay in 1861. This account is quite famous because it is well documented in Paramahamsa Yogananda’s  autobiography. He received the name “Haidakhan Baba” because he was often seen in the Kumaon region of the Himalayan foothills in a village known as Haidakhan. These appearances mainly occurred between 1800-1922.

In the autumn of 1922 Haidakhan Baba went on Kailash Yatra and when he returned he stayed at Ashkot which is at the border of Nepal and Uttar Pradesh, as the guest of the king, Sri Karman Singh. After a few days he told that the time had come for him to leave. The king carried the palanquin in which Baba was sitting. After they had gone about 4 Km Baba asked the king to return home. Baba continued with just a few devotees. When they got to where the Kali and Gori rivers meet, Babaji entered the waters and slowly changed into a ball of light while sitting in padmasana. Before leaving he said he would reappear for the benefit of humankind.

Mahendra Maharaj

After Baba’s disappearance a siddha yogi named Mahendra Baba began to preach about him. When Mahendra was 5 years old a yogi came to him and gave him a prasadi laddu. He was very attracted to that yogi and always prayed to him. When he got older he left home in search of this yogi, but his parents searched for him and dragged him back home. After he graduated he again went in search of this yogi. He underwent many hardships to find him. During his travels he received a divine message that he should go to Almora and look for him there. In 1949 in Almora he saw some photos of a Mahatma and recognized them as the same person that he had considered to be his guru all these years. He was told his name was Haidakhan Baba and he had an ashram named Siddhashram. When he went to the ashram Babaji wasn’t there so he locked himself in a room with a vow that until he meets Haidakhan Baba he would not come out of his yogic posture. Baba appeared to him and gave him guidance and blessings for his future work. Mahendra Baba then came to Brindavan and established an ashram called, “Samba Sada Shiva Kunj.” Soon many disciples gathered around him, including all the former disciples of Haidakhan Baba.  Mahendra Maharaj was known for his strict discipline with his disciples and for his yogic siddhis. He referred to himself as “Charanashrita Baba”, a servant of Haidakhan Baba. He told everyone that Haidakhan Baba will reappear. He  said that Haidakhan Baba is Sada Shiva Himself.

Mahendra Maharaj, developed both Haidakhan Ashrams. He built a small temple in Kathgaria Ashram and installed Babaji’s murti. On the previous night of installation day in 1957, four days after Shiv Ratri, over a thousand devotees had gathered in the Katgharia Ashram and were doing continuous prayer throughout the night. Around midnight a divine jyoti appeared in center of the devotees and stood still a few feet above ground. From this light Babaji gave darshan in his physical form wearing a kurta and topa which had previously been his favorite form of dressing . After giving darshan for a couple of minutes this light entered into the murti which was to be installed the next day. After the installation ceremony, selected devotees who were permitted by Mahendra Maharaj to touch the murti could actually feel the heart of the murti was beating.

Presently, this murti is installed in the Brindavan ashram. Every year this installation day is celebrated in Brindavan. Mahendra Maharaj performed many miracles, which he always insisted were due to the blessings of Haidakhan Baba. Illiterate people became highly learned scholars and composers, devotees who were on their death bed were brought back to life, poor people became wealthy, and childless couples begot children.

For many years Mahendra Baba preached that Haidakhan Baba would return to transform this world. He described what he would look like and said he would appear in 1970. Mahendra Maharaj entered mahasamadhi in 1969. When his body was being carried in the procession to the cremation ground, thousands of devotees were shedding tears. At that time the hand of the body lifted itself and blessed all the devotees. This sight is even now remembered by some residents of Brindavan.

Sri Haidakhan Baba 1970-1984

In 1970  Babaji appeared in a cave, that has been considered holy for thousands of years, at the foot of the Kumaon Mount Kailash, across the sacred Gautama Ganga opposite a remote village called Haidakhan. He had no known parents or family. He appeared as a youth of 18 or 20, yet he displayed great wisdom and divine powers. The Haidakhan villagers sometimes saw him as an old man with a long white beard, as a young man with a long beard, or as a beautiful young man with no beard. Two men who spoke to him at the same time described him differently. He was seen at different places at the same time. He knew the scriptures, yet there is no evidence of his having been educated. He ate almost nothing for months yet his energy was boundless. In September 1970, he climbed to the top of Mount Kailash, seated himself in siddhasana at the small temple there without leaving his seat for 45 days and nights, meditating most of the time, talking occasionally, and started teaching the message that he has brought to the world.

There is so much more to tell about all three of the Haidakhan Babas. It is all very interesting, but I am not going to attempt to present such a huge amount of information in this post. The Haidakhan Baba that appeared in 1970 left this world in 1984. For all those interested in learning more there is a lot of information available online that can easily be found and many books in print as well.

Entrance to Haidakhan Baba's Ashram

Sri Murtis of Haidakhan Baba and Mahendra Maharaj

Close up of Sri Haidakhan Baba

Another murti of Sri Haidakhan Baba at the ashram

Haidakhan Baba's asana

few years ago, i would download almost every single hindi music track released – listen, review. its been so many years since i lost that enthusiasm, anxiety. now i just try finding a track only when some one suggests me.

i read on a blog how addictive the songs chaandan mein and teri yaad mein are from kailash kher’s new album. i instantly started looking for the album songs (apparently finding a song these days is not difficult like they were earlier).

with lot of expectation i listened to them. and i was not disappointed. they truly are mesmerizing. i found mixed reviews later when searched more. some did not like it.

the music is simple. after listening number of times, drowsed in the music i wondered how the video is shot for the tracks i liked. more expectations. i could only find video version for just three tracks. of which, chaandan mein is nicely shot. the little girl in the chaandan mein video is unforgettable.

i liked the songs in that order (7 out of 10 tracks!)
. Piya Ghar Aavenge
. Teri Yaad Mein
. Chaandan Mein
. Bheeg Gaya Mera Mann
. Ishq Ho Gaya
. Kar Kar Main Haara
. Tere Naina

here is the youtube link for the chaandan mein full video song

OM NAMAH SHIVAY!!!

I am very happy to start my blog with the experiences of Kailash Mansarovar yatra, which I took recently. I went through Govt. of India route in 9th batch (16 July to 15 August) 2009. You can get details of the yatra @ http://www.mea.gov.in on the right side menu check “kailash Mansarovar Yatra”

Following are the day wise experiences, which I wrote daily during my yatra. So putting in the same wording without any censorship.

Mumbai to Delhi (15th July 2009)

Started from Mumbai with heavy rains. Meru cab was late 15 mins. Flight was also late 30 mins. Reached Delhi @ 4.30pm. Took pre-paid taxi, reached Gujarat Samaj Sadan @6.00pm. Was welcomed by our Liaison Officer (LO) Mr. Hemender Kumar Gupta. After entering the room, I meet one person from Bengal. He was very emotional and said to me that I am of same age of his son. On that day, I was the youngest guy with age 33. Oldest was 72 years old from Gujarat. Whole evening went in getting to know each other. In evening Ms. Deep gave tips of yoga for the next day medical test. Mr. Uday Kaushikji gave spiritual guidance to all. We had dinner hosted by Mr. Uday Kaushikji.

Slept with some tension (not much), of getting up early in morning for medical test.

Delhi – Day 1 (16 July)

Wake up early @ 5.00am. Reached @ Delhi Heart and Lung Institute @ 7.30am. We meet Mr. Mudgalji, who was taking his yatra for 6^th time. Medical started @ about 8.30am. First filled a form, then passport checkup at Medical counter. Deposited Rs. 2150/ – for checkup, then went to KVMN counter where they took our passports and RS. 400/- for china visa fees. Then started medical tests. My tests were over @ about 1.30pm. We had a presentation @ 2.00pm by a senior Doctor for “High Altitude Sickness” awareness. Had lunch hosted by Hospital. We left at about 4.30pm, as there were still medical tests pending for some yatris.

Reached @ 5.00pm in Gujarat Samaj Sadan, has some rest for 1 hrs. In evening we went to Chandni Chowk by Delhi Metro. Its good one. (Compared to Mumbai locals ). I never did any shopping. In evening, 4^th batch yatris returned to Delhi. We meet people from that batch staying in adjacent room. There was one blind Sardarji. His helper was a Parsi. Also meet a Man 80 years old (yes, 80 years) from Thane. He said he was only Maharashatrian in that batch.

About my Batch mates

Already wrote about Mr. Mudgalji. He shared a lot of tips to people. Mr. Patel is doing his 3rd yatra and 3 members were taking their 2nd yatra. Rest all were first timers. We also meet Mr. Punnet Mudgal (aged 21 years). He became our youngest team member in the batch.

As usual there were lots of Gujarati yatris. They form their group [:))]. They were largest in the group, and then there was Maharashatrian group. Mr. Sharad Chimoteji originally a Marathi, settled in Chattisgad, one Mr. Sanjay Salunke was from Jalgaon. One Lady from Jalgaon. Ms. Joshi from Mulund. Mr. Khare from Kalyan.

Delhi – Day 2 (17 July)

Wakeup @5.00am. Had tea. Everybody is thinking about today’s medical decisions. Let’s see. We left in the morning for medical checkup results at ITBP. Unfortunately we started without taking one yatri. Even though we (4 of us) informed to out LO that one member is missing, he never stopped the bus. God knows why he never stopped the bus, as he was the leader of the group and people has all ready informed missing person just before start of the bus.

After reaching, we were briefed by one of the officers @ ITBP. The results were declared at 1.30om. Everybody got selected except one uncle from Mysore. His wife got selected. She did the yatra in 2001 alone. The uncle got bypass in 1998. Doctor rejected only because of that else all medical reports were ok for him.

Then there was lunch & briefing by Kailash- Mansarovar Samiti. They gave us all ration for 9 days of yatra in China as well as all medical drugs for the yatris. Every briefing, they told us not to fight among ourselves. I can see lot of differences in our members. Few Guajarati want fafada, Dhokala in breakfast. Few want half plate fafada and half plate poha. I guess even though, we came for yatra, they were behaving like came for picnic/vacation. All Guajarati formed there group as usual.

We went to Chandni Chowk again. I bought cold cream, pudin hara and plastic sheets.

My Suggestion/Observation:

Do not depend on any shopping in Delhi. As we do not know where you will get the things that you want. Plastic sheets and nylon rope were so much at my Borivali station side. I forgot the same. So do not depend on “ANY” shopping in Delhi. As all days are very busy here as some samithi will facilitate you, brief you and travel takes lot of time. You don’t know when the day ends.

Delhi- Day 3 (18 July)

Wake up @ 500am. We will go to today @ MEA for submission of drafts and indemnity bond. In the evening we have to go to Delhi’s chief minister Ms. Sheela Dixit’s residence for dinner. Let’s see. In the MEA, we were briefed by MEA person and KVMN person as well. In evening Sheelaji gave rucksack to all yatris. The rucksack contains a raincoat, a torch, a windcheater. One box of puja samagri.

We did packing in the night. The seen in the guest house was to see, as everybody in the room has placed their luggage and everybody were packing the bags. I was in luggage committee, so we loaded all yatris luggage in the truck @ 1.00am and then went for sleep.

Briefing @ MEA

Day 1 Delhi to Almora (19 July)

Wakeup @ 4.00am. We started @ 6.00am to go to Almora. Toyota Innova was to transport. We did our breakfast @ Ghaziabad. Some Samiti again facilitate us. After reaching @ Khatgodham, had lunch in KVMN guest house. From Khatgodham, the road is zik-zak type. Almost 1-2 yatris in 7 Innova (5 yatris each) had problem of omitting due to road. We reached @ Almora at about 7.00pm.

I had hot water bath. Then we four (self, Sharad Uncle, Joshiji, and Dada) went to local market. KVMN guest house is really good one. We sleep @ 10.30pm. Had a very sound sleep today.

Location : Almora
Facility : 2/3/4 bedrooms hotel
Charging facility : Light was available all night.

Starting to Almora

Day2 Almora to Darchula (20 July)

Again started using Innova. Had breakfast. Then we had lunch @ KVMN hotel @ Pitthoragad. We reached @ Mirthi, where ITBP persons welcomed us. There we had very good snacks. Mr.Nimbadiya briefed us of the conditions and precautions to be taken during yatra.

We reached Darchula @ around 6.25pm. Self and Joshi shared the room. There is a bridge which divides Nepal and India for communication, which closes @ 7.00pm every day. So immediately we headed to Nepal, crossed the bridge and entered in Nepal. We roamed about 15-20 mins and then came back to India @ guest house. We had Dinner and our LO started asking for Porters and ponies to decide. Initially I was not intended in both, but all yatris pressures make me feel to taking at least a Porter. Again we had packing, so I pack my sack and have few clothes.

We did weighing of all yatris luggage @ around 10.00pm.

Location : Darchula
Facility : 4 bedrooms hotel
Charging facility: Light was available all night.

Yatra Route

Me @ Darchula. Opposite is Nepal.

Day3 Darchula to Pangla (21 July)

Wakeup @4.00am. We left the hotel at 6.30am after breakfast. They gave us packets of for lunch (puri + bhaji). We started @ “zero point” @ 7.00am. I had a porter named “Hira Singh”. We reached at Pangla stop @ 10.00am. 3hrs total trek today. Then we went to the guest house by jeep. Reached @ guest house @ 12.00. All yatris came around 2.00pm. Has lunch when the last batch came here.

Did full day rest at house. Had sleep about 2 hrs. Walk in evening. Had a talk @ home with mother. Food is pretty decent, starting with soup. Dinner consists of Dal, Kali Dal, Bhendi, chawal khir which was pretty tasty.

Location angla
Facility :This is an alternative arrangement for stay. KVMN has taken few rooms in a building. All sleeping is on floor. Bathroom and Toilets are pretty primary. Take odomos with you. You might need it only at this place.
Charging facility : Not much light. Just ½ to 1 hrs.

Me @ Arvindji @ Zero Point Tavaghat

(L to R) My Porter Hira Singh, Arvindji’s Porter Narendra

Day4 Pangla to Gala (22 July)

Wake up @ 4.00am. We started @ 6.00am. Reached to a place by jeep, to start walking. Started trekking @ 6.30 am. We reached Gala @ 10.00am. At this place people got ponies, which went for ponies for yatra.

Did daring to have cold water bath today after Darchula. Cold water bath was fascinating. Chanted “Shri Swami Samartha” and pour water on head. Had prayer today in a small Shiva temple adjacent to our rooms. Had lunch of louki, dal, rice, rooti and chaas.

I had chaas today let’s see. I avoided chaas and curd in the journey, as I get cold every time I eat curd or drink chaas. In evening, I got running cold. Has a tablet by doctor, as not able to find my Citrizine. Had dinner @ 8.50pm.

Location : Gala
Facility : Good constructed rooms, accommodating 7-8 yatris each. 3-4 fabricated rooms as well.
Charging facility : Not much light. Just ½ to 1 hrs.

Canteen facility @ Pangla

En-route to Gala

En-route to Gala

En-route to Gala

Me with ITBP Persons

Arvindji @ Gala camp

Day5 Gala to Budhi (23 July)

Wake up @ 3.30am, started @ 4.50am. Today was 21km trek. Reached Lakhanpur @ 8.50am. Had breakfast of puri and bhaji and tea. Started from Lakhanpur @ 9.20am. Reached Malpa @ 10.30 am. Had lunch as well. Started @ 11.00am. We reached @ 12.00 to a point. We had tea by ITBP team. Reached KVMN guest house of budhi @ 1.00pm.

Today almost 8hrs trek. Did bath with hot water. Did puja today. Had rest for whole day. Our luggage never arrive today. It came in the evening @ 5.00pm. Had dinner and sleep @ 9.50pm.

Location : Budhi
Facility : Good constructed rooms, accommodating 7-8 yatris each. 3-4 fabricated rooms.
Charging facility : Not much light. Just ½ to 1 hrs.

From this temple, 4444 steps starts to Budhi

Malpa

Malpa

Day6 Budhi to Gunji (24 July)

Wake up @ 3.30am. Started @ 5.10am. Today was 18km trek. We reached @ 6.30am Chiyalekh, where we had breakfast. From this point we have a site of “Annapurna” mountain. It is said that this is highest peak in India. We had checking by ITBP for further trekking. They checked our passports. We had another passport checking by ITBP @ Garbhayang. They offered tea, water, and wafers as usual. ITBP people are really charming, always welcome us with smile. At Garbhayang, we never did lunch as we reached their @ 9.00am morning. Gunji was 5km away from this point. We started with 8 jawans escorting us, as the group was very away. I and my partner Mr. Arvind Joshiji reached @ Gunji @ 12.20pm in afternoon. Had rest till 4.00pm. Our luggage never reached @ post. I have a small Blister on my right leg finger. We went to ITBP section; the doctor took the puss from the blister. Hope the yatra is good from my legs point of view. I had small irritation on my left leg as well. Praying lord Shiva to have yatra completed successfully and with good darshan. Let’s see. We have a medical test tomorrow morning. I have indigestion, having gas problem because of that.

In evening, we did puja @ITBP temple with Bhajans from them as well as from us. Did dinner @ 9.00pm. I had only 1 roti due to indigestion.

Location : Gunji
Facility : Good constructed rooms, accommodating 7-8 yatris each. 3-4 fabricated rooms.
Charging facility : Not much light. Just ½ to 1 hrs.

Sharad Uncle, Puneet and Meenaben

Annapurna Mountain from Chiyalekh

Day7 Gunji Halt (25 July)

Wakeup @6.00am, somewhat late in the yatra context. Had hot water bath. Had breakfast @ 8.00am. We assemble @ ITBP @ 8.30am. They briefed us about yatra route going forward and medical aspect as well. I had last medical checkup @ 9.10am. The entire batch cleared the test. We had lunch @ about 12.20pm. I washed few clothes. Did packing again of bags.

Had rest today. Slept in the afternoon. In evening went for puja in ITBP Mandir. Had dinner @ 9.00pm.

Annapurna Mountain from Gunji camp

Annapurna Mountain from Gunji camp

Day8 Gunji to Kalapani (26 July)

Wakeup @5.30am. Had tea and breakfast @ 7.00am. We had prayer in the mandir. Started @ 7.40am. Reached one ITBP camp @ 9.00am. They served us tea, wafers as usual. We stopped at the camp for about half an hour as ITBP never allowed us to move earlier. They are 20 ITBP people escorting us till Lipulekh Pass, so we need to move as per their schedule. Reached Kalapani @ 10.20am. Before reaching there, there is source of hot spring water; we will go in the afternoon. There we saw Nag and Nagin Parvat. Today is Nagpanchami as well. Hopefully I will capture Nag and Nagin parvat in evening or tomorrow morning.

This place is rented by Nepal Govt. This place comes under Nepal Govt. we have taken it as rent on replacement of new land. This place is the origin of Kali River. This place also has “Vyas Gupha”, where Vyas Muni has stayed and written various religious books.

Location: Kalapani
Facility: Well fabricated rooms, accommodating 7-8 yatris each.
Charging facility: Not much light. Just ½ to 1 hrs.

En-route to Kalapani, ITBP Persons serving us tea, water, Potato wafers

Nag And Nagin Parvat @ Kalapani

Day9 Kalapani to Nabhidang (27 July)

Wakeup @ 5.00am. We started @ 7.05am. Reached Nabhidang @ 9.50 am. We saw “OM” Parvat from the guest house site. Tomorrow we need to leave @ about 2.0am in morning, as we never took any ponies. The people with ponies will leave around 3.00am.

Location: Nabhidang
Facility: Well fabricated rooms, accommodating 7-8 yatris each.
Charging facility: Not much light. Just 1 to 2 hrs.

OM Parvat

OM Parvat

Day10 Nabhidang to Taklakot (29 July)

Wakeup @ 2.00am. Left @ 3.00am. It was dark in the morning. We need to reach Lipulekh Pass. It is the testing trek of yatra. We reached at 6.30am. The last 5km was very much testing of trekking. The Chinese side people never came on time, so we have to wait. The temperature was lowering and wind was very heavy. Everybody was shivering. They came @ 7.45 am. We walked 5km after entering Chinese side. Then they took us in a bus to reach Taklakot. In one building they did our medical test and luggage scan again. We were allocated a room 106 with Joshiji. Sharad uncle and Dada were in 104, next to our room. China clock is 2.30hrs ahead if us, so need to adjust the clock +2.30 hrs. We did our dinner @ 8.00pm. Did some roaming in the market nearby. I will never use porter or pony for the parikrama. Let’s see.

Location: Taklakot
Facility: Good 2 bed-room hotel rooms. 24 hrs hot water facility.
Charging facility: 24 hrs light.

Day11 Taklakot rest day (29 July)

Wakeup @ 8.00am. Ready @ 9.00am. Had breakfast @ 9.00am. Breakfast consists of Chinese bread, fried bread, fried peanuts, Jam and tea. We gave $900 for yatra and conversion to Yuan ($701 yatra fees + $4 for common fund + $195 for Yuan conversion). Had lunch @ 2.00pm. Lunch consists of rice, bringle and aloo. We have to eat rice with sabji only. We roam around the market today. Had hot water bath. It seems now onwards, for 9 days, nobody will have bath with few exceptions. Tomorrow we will go to Darchen by bus. It seems we can get darshan of Lord Kailash from guest house. From Darchen will start the 3 day Kailash Parikrama.

Bought a Hat from market for 30 Yuan as mine is kept by the porter@ Lipulekh Pass. Also bought chocolates ½ kg for 8 Yuan. Did call @ home today for 3 Yuan. Slept after lunch and then went to market again. Did dinner @ 8.00pm with rice, cabbage and flower sabji. Did all packing again for parikrama, tomorrow will wake up @ 6.00am.

Day12 Taklakot to Darchen (30 July)

We started @ 9.00am after having breakfast @ 8.00am. Now we started by bus. In between route, as we are small group and firstly going to kailash parikrama, en-route we halted at Mansarovar. Few yatris did a bath. I never did, just sprinkle some water on the body. We reached Darchen @ 12.00. Had some rest. The toilets and urinals are pathetic. Though they are build, nobody will use them. Before Darchen we did saw Raksha Tal, where Ravan worshipped Lord Shiva. We went down and tested the water. At Raksha Tal, you can see the Gurula Mandata Mountain ranges. Gurula Mandata Mountain is 1000m higher than Mount kailash.

After reaching, we used the guide and got the land cruisers for Asthapad, were we can see the grand view of Lord Kailash. They took 500 Yuan per land cruiser. Jain swami Shri Rishabh Dev did Tapascharya on this location. He went 7 steps on a mountain, on the last step (8^th step), he vanished. There is a monument (Mandir like), where his chappals were found.

Our Dada got physically strained. His heartbeat was very fast. That’s why never came to Asthapad. The doctor came and said he has to go back to Taklakot. The Van was hired for 1500 Yuan. Everybody was very emotional for return of dada.

Raksha Tal

Raksha Tal

(L to R) Ashtapad, Kailash and Nandi like Mountain

Shri RishabhDev Mounment

Kailash View from Ashtapad

Kailash View from Ashtapad

Kailash View from Ashtapad

Kailash View from Ashtapad

Gurula Mandata Mountain ranges

Kailash from Darchen Camp

Kailash from Darchen Camp

Kailash from Darchen Camp

Day13 – Parikrama Day 1 (31 July)

We started from Darchen went to “Yama Dwar”. It is said that “Yama”, lord of death comes from this gate to take life of a person. We did pradakshina for 3 times on Yamadwar. 3Km from Yamadwar, the bus took us to a place where ponies and porters were available. From this point the parikrama started.

I with joshiji and Mayank started @ 11.30am for parikrama. We reached @ 2.30pm @ the Derapukh camp. After 15 mins rest, self and joshiji started to visit Charansparsha. This is the closest view of lord Kailash. We reached @ Charansparsha @ 4.00pm. In between that Arvind Joshiji lost his camera. We did puja on Charansparsha. I offered a silver bel, which I carried in the pouch. I touched the bel @ got it returned again, as I will do puja everyday of this bel. When we were returning, we told the yatris who started for Charansparsha, of our lost camera. My miracle Mayank found the camera. So at last Arvindji got his camera. In evening, saw some rain in the region, with heavy winds flowing. We did dinner and slept for day 2 of parikrama.

Location : Derapukh
Facility : Good 7-8 bed-room rooms.
Charging facility: No charging facility.

Yamadwar

Kailash Parikrama: Ganesha like mountain

Kailash Parikrama: one of the views of Kailash

Charansparsha View

Charansparsha View

Charansparsha View

Day14 Parikrama Day-2 (1 August)

We wakeup @6.00am. Did breakfast and tea. Today was the longest parikrama day and we needed to pass Dolma Pass. Today was 23 km trek. We started @ 7.30am. En-route we saw Gauri kund, were Parvati baths. We asked Arvindji’s porter to get the Gaurikund Jal. At Dolma Pass there is a place called Shiv-Shakti Sthal. After the Dolma Pass, there is all virgin land. We did 10-15 mins rest and started again @ 11.30am. It was a walk for 10-12 km. we reached @ Zongzerbu @ 2.20pm.

I and Arvindji were very tired today. Did some rest. Slept for 1 hrs. In night I took one combiflam for whole body pain .

Location: Zongzerbu
Facility: Good 7-8 bed-room rooms.
Charging facility: No charging facility.

Day-15 Parikrama Day-3 (2 August)

Wakeup @ 7.30am . Had very good sleep yesterday. We started @ 9.00am. Today was just 12km trek. 6km walk and 6 km by bus. It was very easy relatively to yesterday’s trek. We reached @ 10.30am for the bust stop kind of place. We waited for 1 hrs for the bus. The bus came @ 11.30am. We reached again @ Darchen camp @ 12.00.

People who were brave have a cold water bath (not me). Few went to a hotel nearby to have a hot water bath for 15-20 Yuan. I was not keen of having a bath J. Let’s see.

Never bath today. Has lunch @ 4.00pm. Slept for 1 hrs. Went to market in the evening. Here sunset is @ 9.00pm (yes 9.00pm). Had dinner @ 10.40 pm. Going to sleep.

Day16 Darchen to Trus Gho (Reaching to Mansarovar Day 1) (3 August)

Wake up @ 7.00am. Ready @ 8.30am with breakfast @ tea. Got the seat in the bus. We travelled about 4-5 hrs with 1 and ½ hrs break. It was boring. We reached @ Trus Gho camp @ 2.20pm. Took the room and luggage and went for a holy Dip in Mansarovar.

We were lucky. Sun was shining, so I also did a holy dip in Mansarovar. Today was “Shravani Somvar” – Monday of Shravan month. A good day to have holy dip in Mansarovar. (Anyways for me every day is a good day to have a holy dip in Mansarovar)

We will have a haven on 5^th , which is Raksha Bandhan day. I did a Parayan after Dip @ my room of Shri Swami Samartha pothi. At least I was able to do so in the entire yatra. Hoping to have more parayan in the coming days. Let’s see.

Did roaming around Manas in evening. Was able to see very good views of Manas and Kailash and surroundings for 4-5 hrs. Had puja in Mudgalji’s room. The slept @ 11.30pm.

En-route to Mansarovar: Kailash View

Mansarovar: Kailash view at Mansarovar

Day17 Mansarovar Halt- Day -2 (4 August)

Wake up @ 8.30am. Had good sleep yesterday. Had breakfast @ 11.15am with Aloo paratha. While people did holy dip today, I never did that. Meanwhile I searched for few stones, which has OM, Ganapati or Shiva lingam. Had lunch and few hrs rest today.

Yesterday few yatris wakeup @ 3.00am china time and went to Manas, as it is said that “Dev and Devdoots” comes to have a Dip .They waited for 3 hrs and at about 4.30am, they saw few figures coming down to Manas and then disappeared. They also saw 30-40 stars coming down in Manas. For start they counted 1, 2…and then within a few seconds there were lots of stars coming down in Manas. So they stopped counting. Today we will try to see this phenomena on Brahma Muhurat which starts @ 4.00am. Let’s see.

Has some rest in afternoon. In evening I went to Manas and did some Jap. Had puja @ dinner and then slept @ 11.30pm.

Day18 Mansarovar halt @ Trus Gho Day-2 (5 August)

Wakeup @4.00am and went directly to Manas. Waited for 2 hrs in the shade of a Monastery nearby. There is only one Monastery called Trus Gho Monastery.

Did saw few lamp like lights on Manas water. Don’t know that was Devatma or punyatma. We never had breakfast today, as we have a Havan today.

All took a holy dip in Manas @ 12.15pm. We had a Havan performed by Mr. Mudgalji. Everybody was satisfied with the havan. Mr. Mudgalji performed the puja pretty well.

I did puja of the silver bels which I took from home and one Eakmukhi Rudraksha and a gold ring. After puja we write OM on the Manas Jal bottles of yatris.

After puja, I did a parayan of Shri Swami Samartha pothi. Today’s day was very auspicious as

1. Raksha Bandhan i.e. Poornima
2. Had a automatic fast
3. Did a parayan @ Manas with Poornima
4. Did a haven @ Manas

I collected 4liters of Manas Thirtha. 2 ltrs in mine bottle and I bottle borrowed from Sharad uncle.

Has lunch/dinner @ 6.00pm. I will not have dinner today. Today plan has changed, rather than going to Chi ho tomorrow in afternoon, in morning we will leave for Taklakot .Tomorrow in Taklakot they have Tibet national day celebrations starting this year. So this will be first celebration. We will reach by staying ½ hrs @ Chi ho and then will go to Taklakot and participate in the celebrations.

Taking Holy Dip @ Mansarovar

Kailash and Mansarovar

Kailash and Mansarovar

Raksha Bandhan Poornima @ Mansarovar

Sunset @ Mansarovar

Day19 to Taklakot (6 August)

Wakeup @ 6.00am. Left @7.15 am. In the journey we took the last look @ Manas. Then reached Taklakot @ 10.30am. After room allotment in Taklakot, we headed to the cultural program. Was there for about an hrs. Was bored as we did not understand Tibetan language. Was very hungry, so bought biscuits and eat with Sharad uncle. Unloaded the luggage from the bus. Now will go for a hot water bath.

Did hot water bath today. Felt really nice to bath with hot water, soap and shampoo. Had lunch, which consists of Aloo and roti @ 2.45pm. Fed up of Aloo, flower, cabbage now.

En-route to Taklakot, we visited the Samadhi of “Zorab Singh”, who was the Senapati of Maharaja of Kashmir.

We did roaming around the market again as there is no other place to visit. Did sleep for ½ hrs today. Never got good sleep in afternoon. Almost all shops were closed today due to Festival. That’s why never call @ home. Will do it tomorrow. Tomorrow we will go to “Khojarnath” temple. This temple is 700-800 years old.

Mayank and few yatris made pakodas today for dinner. We have very good dinner of pakodas and rice.

Sunrise @ Mansarovar @ Chi ho

Sunrise @ Mansarovar @ Chi ho

Zorab Singh Samadhi

Cultural Program @ Taklakot

Cultural Program @ Taklakot

Day20 Taklakot rest day-2 (7 August)

Wakeup @8.00am. Ready @ 10.00am. Had breakfast. We went to Khojarnath temple. This temple is of Shri Ram, Lakshaman and Sita. Very ancient.

Had lunch. Then did washing of 2-3 clothes. Will wash 2-3 clothes again in evening or tomorrow.

Did call to Mumbai home. Had some rest in afternoon. Went to market again, as no choice. Had dinner. Went for shopping in evening. Had a talk with pallavi today.

Day21 Taklakot Rest Day-3 (8 August)

Wakeup @ 8.00am. Had breakfast @ 9.00a. Then went to hot water shower in hotel. Washed 2 clothes. Did some packing before going to bath. Packaged all Manas Jal water bottles in the rucksack.

Went for shopping again in market for Arvindji. After lunch did some rest. @ 5.30pm Guru, our guide in china came and announced for luggage collection in ½ hrs. I was safe in luggage, as I did my packing in the morning. Just did tie the rope on the luggage with help from Sharad Uncle and Arvindji as usual.

Sharad uncle and Arvindji helped me packing my luggage throughout the yatra. Had dinner @ 8.0pm. Went for some roaming around after dinner.

Sharad Uncle and Arvindji @ Khojarnath Temple

Jay and Viru of our Batch

(L to R) Shri Dhiru bhai – 68 years old, Shri Ramji bhai – 72 years old- oldest member

Day 22 Taklakot to Kalapani Via Lipulekh and Nabhidang (9 August)

Wake up @ 5.00am. Did breakfast @ 6.00am. Left hotel @ 7.00am. Went to customs dept in Taklakot. Again checked our handbags by the authorities. Few luggages again required opening and showing to authority.

We reached @ Lipulekh @ chine side. They gave the passport back to us. Then we climb the pass through jeep. Before reaching to pass, about ½ km, they drop us. From then, we started waking to Lipulekh. I was first to reach the Lipulekh Pass and enter in India side @ 9.15am chine time i.e. 6.45 IST.

I and Arvindji reached Nabhidang @ 8.00am. We halted @ Nabhidang, as there was lunch @ 10.30am. We did darshan of OM Parvat again. Has good lunch after very long time in china. So everybody was happy with lunch. Food was very good. Menu was kadhi, aloo methi dry, dahi raita and muttor.

We started from Nabhidang @ 11.15am to kalapani. I slow down and did some photography. Don’t know, I again will come to this site or not, as getting 30days vacation every year is something not possible in a private firm. We reached @ 1.15pm @ kalapani.

Had rest in afternoon, but never had sleep. Went to kalapani Mandir @ 6.00om for puja..

Today ITBP people hosted dinner for us, after puja, we had a good dinner near the temple. Dinner consists of Rajma, Soyabin, boondi raita, puri and chawal.

Kalapani Temple: Origin of Kali River

Vyas Gupha @ Kalapani

Day23 Kalapani to Gunji – 9 km (10 August)

Wakeup @ 5.30am. Ready @ 7.00am. Had breakfast. Went to kalapani Mandir. Had prayer and then started @ 7.50am. Reached @ Gunji @ 10.20am. Now whole day rest. I never bathed today. People did bath. Did lunch @ 12.30pm. Had good 2 1/2 hrs sleep in afternoon. Wake up @ 3.30pm. Went to puja @ ITBP Mandir. Had dinner and slept @ 10.00pm.

Day24 Gunji to Budhi – 18Km (11 August)

Wakeup @ 5.00am. Ready @ 6.30am. Had breakfast. Started @ 6.45am. Reached first ITBP halt @ 8.00am. Reached Garbhayang @ 9.00am. Reached “Chiyalekh” @ 11.00am. Reached Budhi @ 12.00pm.

Mudgalji was saying, in this region, there is a rain in afternoon, so always start early and reach Budhi. As said by Mudgalji, there was heavy rains and wind @ 3.00pm. Rain stopped at about 4.00pm. Our 4 yatris was in the rain.

Had puja in evening and dinner @ 8.00pm. As was very tired, slept quickly @ about 8.30pm.

Day24 Budhi to Pangla (about 24 km) (12 August)

Started @ 4.55am. Reached “Lamari” @ 6.00am. Then reached “Malpa” @ 7.15am. Had breakfast for about 10 mins. Started again @ 7.25am. Reached “Lakhanpur” @ about 8.30am. Started the climb of 4444 steps. This was very treacherous and tiring as sun was over the head and the heat was very heavy even @ 8.30 am in morning. Reached @ the top @ about 10.10am.

Before reaching the top, I had cramps on both thighs. So took some 10-15 mins rest in a hotel @ the top. Had Fanta and again started. Reached Pangla @ 11.30am. Rajeshji reached first @ the site @ about 10.45am.

I rested @ the camp before reaching to Pangla. Had water @ the KVMN camp before reaching the site. Had lunch @ 12.00am. Started again @ 1.00pm. After ½ hrs we reached the place (Mangti Nala) where we took jeep to reach Pangla guest house, which was about 4km from the camp.

Today’s trek was very tiring and exhaustive, in the whole yatra for me. As we started @ 5am and after walking for 3 and ½ hrs, @ 8.30 am started to climb 4444 steps and after reaching the top again there was steps to decent to reach Pangla lunch camp site.

Shiva Temple @ Pangla

Day25 Pangla to Didihat via Darchula (13 August)

Wakeup @ 4.00am. Started @ 5.00am by jeep from Pangla. Reached @ Tavaghat base @ 6.00am. Started climbing Tavaghat @ 6.15 am. Reached other side of Tavaghat @ 8.15am. After reaching the guide was saying to wait got other yatris but I and Rajeshji started with private jeep to Darchula. In the road, there was landslide so left the first jeep @ the landslide and then again took the jeep after crossing the landslide. We reached @ 9.30am @ KVMN guest house @ Darchula. Had cold water bath. Later all yatris came @ about 11.00am. We had lunch @ 12.20pm. We packaged our luggage, which we will get directly @ Delhi.

We started from Darchula to Didihat @ 2.10pm. On the road, there were 2 landslides, so we waited on the road to clear the debris. We reached @ “Mirthi” where we were greeted by ITBP staff. They briefed us as well as there were snacks and thanks giving. We got a group photo each. We reached @ Didihat @ 7.10pm. Had dinner @ 8.15 am

Day 26 Didihat to Jageshwar via Patal Bhuvaneshwar (14 August)

Wakeup @ 5.00am. Ready @ 6.30am. Had breakfast @ 7.00am. Aloo Paratha and curd was the menu. Had good breakfast. Started from Didihat @ 7.50am. Reached @ “Patal Bhuvaneshwar” @ 11.00am. The temple is in the “Patal”, it’s a Gufha under the ground, all natural. Worth to see. The entrance is very difficult, to decent from the steps, there are ropes on both sides to get into the gufha. After entering the gufha, we can experience the lack of oxygen in the temple.

All said, it’s a worth a visit. Had lunch @ the temple site. Started from Patal Bhuvaneshwar @ 2.10pm. Reached Jageshwar @ 6.10pm. After fresh up, went to Jageshwar temple. It’s an ancient temple. Worth to see as well. Had dinner @ 8.00pm.

Jageshwar Temple

Day 27 Jageshwar to Delhi (15 August)

Started @ 5.15 am. Had lunch @ KhatGodham @ 10.30 am. Here our LO distributed the certificates of Govt of India for successful completion of Yatra. We reached Delhi @ 6.00pm, after taking 2-3 stops for tea.

Following are the details of yatris for 9^th batch 2009. (Not giving the full address purposefully)

No.	Name & Address	State
1	Hemender Kumar Gupta, Shimla	Himachal Pradesh
2	Davindra kumar Mudgal, Delhi	Delhi
3	Rakesh Kumar, Panchkula	Haryana
4	Deepak Kumar, Panchkula	Haryana
5	Amresh Rai Nandan, Balrampur	UP
6	Sharad Chimote, Bilaspur	Chattishgarh
7	Shobha Joshi, Mulund, Mumbai	Maharashatra
8	Sanjay Salunke, Jalgaon	Maharashatra
9	Sangita Bhavsar, Dhule	Maharashatra
10	Om Prakash Sharma, Burhanur	MP
11	Ratan Patidar, Dungarpur	Rajashthan
12	Dhirajlal Bhutani, Joshipura, Junagadh	Gujarat
13	Ramji Khunt, Mendard, Junagadh	Gujarat
14	Madhukar Khare, kalyan, Thane	Maharashatra
15	Dinesh Modi, Ankleshwar, Bharuch	Gujarat
16	Sangita Modi, Ankleshwar, Bharuch	Gujarat
17	Mukesh kumar Gedia, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
18	Mayank Bhatt, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
19	Dinesh kumar Patel, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
20	Rasiklal Gadiya, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
21	Yogesh kumar Patel, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
22	Meenaben Patel, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
23	Kanubhai Patel, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
24	Daxaben Patel, Ahmedabad	Gujarat
25	Laxmayya Upadrata, Pune	Maharashatra
26	Arvind Joshi, Bhuj-Kutch	Gujarat
27	Punnet Mudgal, Delhi	Delhi
28	Chitra Khare, Pune	Maharashatra
29	Ganesh Datt, Rewari	Haryana
30	Ram kumar Gupta, Gwalior	MP
31	Suman Gupta, Gwalior	MP
32	Vimal Salunkhe, Jalgaon	Maharashatra
33	Rajesh Porwal, Indore	MP
34	Baba Gangaram Samadi, Jhun Jhun	Rajasthan

Vestuário Kailash para ciclismo e passeio

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venha conferir outros modelos de camisas e calças.

Price includes :
 Arrival , departure transfers & Sightseeing in Kathmandu by Private Coach ( Pashupati Nath )
 3 Nights Accommodation in Kathmandu 3* Hotel Marshyangdi / Manang on Twin / Single sharing basis with meals
 9 Nights Accommodation in the guesthouses in Tibet is basic accommodation for sleep only
 3 Nights Accommodation during Kailash Parikrma in tents .
 All transfers and sightseeing tours in Tibet by Toyota Land Cruisers (Maximum 4 Pax. in each)
 English speaking guide
 A Truck for Baggage & Equipments
 In Nepal, Kathmandu / Kodari / Kathmandu by coach.
 Kodari / Kailash Manasarovar / Kodari by Toyota Land Cruisers
 All vegetarian meals through out the tour in Tibet (breakfast and dinner is served hot in the dinning tent and picnic lunch is served in the hot-cases).
 All equipments for camping (tent, mattress, dinning tent, kitchen tent, kitchen utensils, tables, chairs, toilet tent etc)
 Sleeping bag (on Returnable Basis )
 Duffle bag (big bag for keeping personal clothes and equipments).
 Windproof / Waterproof Jacket. (on Returnable Basis )
 Jerry can for taking Manasarovar jal home.
 Steel hot cases for buffet lunch.
 Experienced tour leader / coordinator with each group.
 Services of sardar, cook, kitchen boys and camping helpers (accompanying the group).
 Oxygen bottle in each jeep
 Gemow bag (life saving bag at high altitude)
 First-Aid box.
 Tibet visa fee and permit fee for Kailash and Manasarovar.
 Yaks and Yak-men to carry baggage, food, fuel etc while making parikrama of Mt. Kailash.
 Porterage wherever applicable in Tibet.

Photo: Bruno Baumann

Those who have been following our Blog know how Shrestha Holidays a travel agency with offices in Delhi, Mumbai and Kathmandu hoodwinked a pilgrip group of 56 promised all kinds of amenities and then blackmailed them for every basic amenities including oxygen. This group was starved for two days, not given enough water, not provided oxygen on time and treated like animals. Due to the travel agency’s criminal conduct a middle aged woman almost died while several others fell sick.
This Agency was interviewed by a reporter to whom Pradeep Kumar, assistant tour operator of Shrestha Holidays in the capital said :

“Even some in south India consider death during pilgrimage as auspicious……….. “

To read the complete interview visit this link:

http://blog.taragana.com/n/death-during-kailash-pilgrimage-is-auspicious-tour-operator-81247/

A group of 50 pilgrims was cheated, mistreated and exposed to grave danger by their travel agency enroute to Kailash (in the Himalayas).

Hundreds of Hindu pilgrims attempt to visit Kailash Manasarovar – the abode of Lord Shiva and thus the holiest of all pilgrimage sites. These pilgrims are taken to China by travel agencies who have the license to organize tours and operate in China from the Chinese government. When people go through these agencies their passports are not stamped by the Chinese government and separation from the group means they can be apprehended and prosecuted by Chinese government as aliens or illegal travellers. This procedure places pilgrim groups at the travel agencies’ mercy who promise the mountain and grudgingly deliver basic necessities like food, water and oxygen at high altitudes where smallest neglect can be fatal.

Recently, a group of 55 pilgrims were victim to such a travel agency, Shreshtha Holidays. The group was grossly ill treated and subjected to criminal neglect almost killing a pilgrim.

The group began its journey to Manasarovar on 31st May. Shreshtha Holidays promised the group amongst other amenities an adequate number of toilet tents, 1 jeep for every 4 pilgrims, an oxygen tank in each jeep, air compressor bags, medical aid and vegetarian food without onion and garlic (the group was of those Hindu Brahmins who consider onion and garlic inauspicious vegetables. The group chose Shreshtha Holidays over other agencies because it promised to provide onion garlic free food). We interviewed some members of this pilgrim group and the ground reality of how Shreshtha Holidays broke all its promises and ill treated these pilgrims including some old people and kids is shocking.

Kailash Manasarovar is at the terrible height of 14947.5 ft above mean sea level. An average human being begins to experience difficulty in breathing and height sickness at 3000m above sea level. Common sense dictates that an agent must carry ample oxygen for every member of the group but Shreshtha Holidays did not deem it necessary. When members of the group began to feel sick they realized there was not enough oxygen. A young boy of 19 years fainted due to lack of oxygen while another middle aged woman almost died due to lack of medical amenities.

The agent did not carry ample oxygen or air compressor bags. He didn’t even have a blood pressure monitor or a stethoscope. As altitudes increased, many travellers began feeling ill. One of the travellers, Mrs. Harsha, had to be admitted to a hospital due to a lack of oxygen and extremely low blood pressure. The travellers approached the agent to help with the transporation and admission of Mrs. Harsha to the hospital, but they found him drunk, incoherent, and useless to any cause; this happened frequently throughout the trip. Mrs. Harsha’s condition would not have worsened as it did if they could have measured her blood pressure earlier and not proceeded to higher altitudes.

At high altitudes, doctors advise travellers to drink plenty of water and pass urine as often as they can. If Mrs. Harsha and many others in the group could have done that much sickness and discomfort could have been avoided. However, the travellers had to ration their drinking water as the agency did not provide them enough drinking water!

The pilgrims were promised that adequate medical help would be available at all times. Not only did that promise turn out false but the group realized to their utter horror that they could not inform the Chinese doctors names of drugs they were allergic to as they had Chinese names in China. Members of the group we interviewed said if they had known they could have researched and found out the Chinese names of drugs they were allergic to. While all members suffered from altitude sickness, Mrs. Harsha’s condition worsened to such degree that her family had to hire a helicopter to bring her down to lower altitude. As we report this she is still under medical observation and her family fears she could have suffered a silent heart attack.

We interviewed the young daughter of Mrs. Harsha (name withheld due to sensitivity) who said she was afraid she would lose her mother. She also informed us (corroborated by other group members) that the Agent was rude, lethargic and callous when asked to help the family procure a helicopter. The family had to pay almost 12,000 US dollars to procure the helicopter. She also said when they asked the Agent if the family of 4 could go together in the copter Agent said yes but when the copter came the pilot refused to allow this young girl and her old grandmother to sit in the copter with her parents. This young lady (daughter of Mrs. Harsha) said to us :

“It is ironical that in God’s land my mother was saved by power of money. I am glad it was my mother who suffered and not mother of those who could not have afforded that copter which saved my Mom’s life.”

This is an outright case of criminal neglect and deficiency in services. We support the group of 55 pilgrims and any other pilgrim who might have faced such adversities during their travel to Manasarovar and encourage them to write to us about their experiences.

The group has written letters to the Indian embassy in China and intends to criminally prosecute the agency. Below is a copy of one of the letters sent to the Embassy from the group:

Date: May 10/11, 2009
To,

The Ambassador
The Indian Embassy
Kathmandu
Nepal

Subject: Deficiency in service, cheating, seizure of passport, threatening by Mr. R Pradhan of Shreshtha Holidays, our travel agent and risking lives of pilgrimages.

Dear sir,

I Rajendra Harsh having passport no. H3325395 with my family members, my wife, Mrs Anjana Harsha, passport no. H3325387 daughter, Miss Soumyaa Harsha passport no. H0227477 and my mother in law, Mrs Tara Joshi passport no. H3925992 have travelled in a group of 55 persons organized by Shreshtha Holidays having offices in Mumbai, New Delhi and Kathmandu and would like to convey the following:
1. Shreshtha holidays charged us Rs 72,000 per person for a trip from Kathmandu to Kathmandu which included our travel to Kailash and Mansarovar, including boarding, lodging and conveyance which included stay at Shangri la hotel in Kathmandu and 2/3 star hotels on the way and camping with bio-toilet during Kailash parikrama. They also assured us that all the land cruisers by which we will be travelling will have oxygen and our group will be provided with doctor with all first aid medical facilities.
2. We reached Kathmandu on 29th May and started our yatra on 31st May. On 30th Mr. R. Pradhan told us that you all will need a special Jacket and for which he would charge us Rs. 450/- per person. He purposely told us just on the eve of departure so that we can not check the rates outside. Later on I came to know that if we would have bought from market it would cost us lesser than the rent he was charging. He also told us on that evening that you need to buy Chinese currency of at least 500/- Yuans if you need pithu during the Yatra and 1000/- Yuan if you need to have both the horse and pithu but this booking he will not do here and will do it during Yatra only. He converted our money Indian Rs to yuan on 30th May in night at the cost of Rs 8/- per yuan. I do not know he had license to do this or not and now I am sure he charged much higher rate than what he should have charged from all of us. Our group must have bought from him at least 40,000 to 50,000 yuans. At that time we never doubted him because it was starting but when I look back I understand that his briefing us at last minute and selling yuan, renting jackets was with shear ulterior motive to cheat us. Our whole group told Mr. Pradhan that we are vegetarian and we do not take onion and garlic. Mr. pradhan assured us the same and told that they will not even carry onion and garlic.
3. On the very first day(31/05/2009) on the way to Kodari he told us that your lives are in danger because ahead on road agitation is going on and villagers have blocked the road and he will negotiate with them so every passanger will have to pay Rs 800/- per person to pay to villagers. His representative Mr. Rawat who was drunk throughout the trip told us that if we do not pay we will have to delay the yatra by one day. We had no choice but had to pay .He took away the money and did not pay anything to villager at least in front of us. I am sure it should have been his responsibility to transport us without any extra charges. He did not inform while booking that it is frequent problem in Nepal and such charges will be extra. He purposely cheated us by creating imaginary problems because when we passed through we did not see any agitating group on the way. Whenever we wanted to talk he was not available and will be seating in some jeep. He would surface only when he wanted some money. We were always left with Sherpas, drivers and one so called captain. Most of them will neither speak English or Hind and we did not know Tibetan or Chinese language.
4. The first day(31/05/2009) we were supposed to cross Chinese border and stay in China but he stopped us at Kodari in Nepal only. In the so called hotel which was worse than a third class lodge had only two toilets and bathrooms for around thirty passengers and the same was the position for balance members of the group. On this first day he did not provide lunch on the way which he was supposed to provide. He did not even provide tea to us in afternoon.
5. Next day(01/06/2009) we were taken to the border of Nepal and China and after crossing the friendship bridge we found that our permit was not available with him. We all had to wait under SUN for nearly 6 hours. He did not provide water, tea and lunch on this day also. On the same day we reached in late evening to Nyalam and he informed us that his food truck has got breakdown and therefore he can not give us dinner also and he did not made any arrangements. It is important to note that such news were always delivered to us through some Sherpa who could not do anything as he did not have any authority. In midnight at 12.00 he woke up and told us that he has arranged Khichadi without any butter, vegetable, pickle or papad. He always use to say us that it is pilgrimage and God makes you to suffer you are not here for food but for bhakti. It is because of me you are getting whatever you have otherwise you will be in horrible position. When we use to argue he will disappear and none of us knew Chinese language so could not communicate anybody ,our permit was with us and visa was not stamped on individual passport and therefore we had no choice but under mental duress had to keep him happy and he exploited us. Because of no lunch last day and no lunch and dinner today two passengers Mr. Vishal Vyas and Mrs. Sadhana Vyas became unconscious and he could not provide doctor or medicine. Luckily we had one doctor who was travelling with us gave some medicine. It was utter negligence and inhumane attitude of Mr. Rawat towards the life of his clients. He neither had medicine and doctor nor had taken it seriously and always use to say have courage such things does happen and you should not bother. In a day or two you will be OK. In Nyalam only my wife also had bad stomach and weakness because of no or improper food and water. After reaching Nayalam we came to know that there is no hot water was available for bathing which he promised to us. He promised us 2 star facilities but here hotel room was shared by around 8-10 person with no attached toilets. There were common toilets which were not clean and had only half partitions. Among 55 of us there were 3 toilets for men and 3 toilets for women and no bathrooms.
6. Next day (2/06/2009) our group was already delayed by one day and he kept us at Nayalam because he did not have bookings for us for next stop. The food which he supplied us was half cooked and gave many a bad stomach.
7. We reached to Saga on 3/06/2009 and according to the brochure and promise we were to stay at a 2 star hotel, but were kept at dormitory- like rooms with no proper sanitation facilities. For toilets we were told to go in open ground where wild dogs were roaming and as we were supposed to leave in morning we had to go for toilets in open grounds when temperatures will be zero or sub zero. We did not have even hot water for going to toilets and we were also not given toilet papers. In such inhumane conditions he kept us which we could not think after giving around INR 80,000 per person and totaling to around 44 lacs of Rupees for one group. We had to buy mineral water, which was supposed to be provided by them. Water was a major problem because to survive at high altitudes one must drink a lot of water. Lack of mineral water made many feel sick.
8. We reached to Prayang on 4/06/2009. Mr. Rawat did not have booking even here and after reaching there he took us to a place which in no sense you can a hotel or lodge. In evening without caring our religious feelings he put onion and garlic in the vegetable and as he used give only one vegetable many of us forced to eat onion garlic because they did not have choice and some did not even food. My wife was one of them who did not eat because of onion. In evening he told us that because of poornima (as if he did not earlier about poornima ) there is shortage of pithus and horses so you will have to pay 1500 yuan for both per person instead of 1000 yuan as expected. He again cheated and charged more money then promised in Kathmandu. Again in Prayang there were no toilet facilities and we had to go to open grounds with wild animals roaming around without hot water and you can imagine the position of Indian ladies. Here again the temperature in night becomes zero and in such temperature opening your undergarments and exposing yourself to the vagaries’ of nature was such an inhumane condition which we were not told at the time of booking.
9. In the morning of 5/06/2009 at Prayang my wife got very sick and only then we realized that they did not even have any stethoscope, life saving drugs, antibiotics, injections, disposable syringes or any doctor. Also they did not have the most important thing, oxygen which they claimed to have had. Only 2 cars instead of 14 had oxygen cylinders, whose capacity was only 3 to 4 hours. My wife got very serious. Her brain got disoriented and even 15 minutes without oxygen made her face turn blue. Doctor in our group gave a steroid (life saving drug) to save my wife. Mr. Rawat did not do anything and did not have any such drug with him. We needed more steroid tablets till we reach to low altitude. Mr. Rawat told us that the best thing for us to go to Takalakote where Military Hospital is there and you will be evacuated by Helicopter to Kathmandu. He also informed that steroid medicines will be available and we need not to worry. We left for the hospital in Taklakot but the oxygen ran out before we could reach the hospital. We reached to the hospital in late afternoon. We shown the drug to doctors there and they told us that they do not English and therefore can not know what is this drug. When I asked Mr. Rawat to send back the driver for which we all four already paid for the whole trip has refused to send him till I pay further money Yuan 500/- I told him that last night only I paid you Yuan 3000/- for horse and as you have not yet booked the same return this money to me but he did not return the money and asked further money for hospital and jeep. After the payment of money only he sent the person. Sir when my family of four had already paid for Jeep throughout the tour up to 12th June he should not have asked the money. Not only this he also asked 100 yuan for food to be brought from market whereas he was to pay for all meals up to 13th may till we leave Kathmandu. After reaching the hospital Mr. Rawat told us that we require permit to leave the country and he will be arranging the same not today but in morning. When I asked what happened to the Helicopter which you told is ready on the other side of border at Hilsa, he told me that how it can come when you have not finalized and paid for helicopter. At that time I talked to my friend in India who found out the telephone no of Mr. R Pradhan and asked about the help. He told that you have to pay for helicopter for rescue up to Kathmandu INR 6.0 lacs and he promised that helicopter will have oxygen and Gama Bag for respiration. Through my friend I paid advance INR 3.0 lacs in shreshtha account on 06/06/2009. On 06/06/09 morning when Mr. Rawat made us goodbye at the hospital and when we reached near to the border we came to know that we will have to walk for around 2 kilometers in hilly terrain and my wife could not even stand on her own. With great difficulties and payment of around 1000 yuan I arranged local persons from china and Hilsa(Nepal) border to carry my wife on back, at some place in a small cement trolley which was there for some construction work. I only know how we could cross the border. After reaching to Hilsa on Nepal side at 10.45 I found there was no helicopter. When I called Mr. Pradhan he told me it has already started and within 20 minutes it will reach. Sir you will not believe that helicopter came to Hilsa at 6.00 PM. He told me that because of agitation it got delayed. I do not know when helicopter already started how it was stopped on the way. Sir you know I had limited oxygen for my wife and with great difficulty she survived additional hours because of rationing of the oxygen by me. Sir please visualize the episode was witnessed by my 65 years old mother in law and my 19 years old daughter. With what agony we had passed through no body can imagine. When checked Helicopter did not have Gama Bag and I had no choice but to risk the life of my wife again. In one and half hour we reached to Nepalgung and he told we have to stay here and we will go to Kathmandu tomorrow by flight. One person of Shreshtha came to receive us and he collected our passports for entry. I admitted my wife to local Medical college hospital and we stayed there for three days. When I asked about my passports I was told that the passports have been sent to Kathmandu and I will get the same only after I pay balance money. Sir before flying to Kathmandu on 9/06/09 I again paid Rs1.0 lac to Shreshtha account and when I reached here his man came and asked my signature on a bill and only after paying Rs. 2 lacs in Shreshtha account he released our passports.
10. When I reached at Kathmandu airport nobody came to receive us and take to hotel which was promised by Mr. Pradhan. When I asked Mr. Pradhan he told me that Kathmandu is closed he can not help and he also threatened me. I arranged my own taxi and came to hotel. I found on the way that Kathmandu was normal and no signs were there of Bandh or strike.
11. Sir after reaching to hotel I came to know that he had booked me only for one day whereas my tour ends on 13th June. Sir I have my bookings with my group on 13 th and if I cancel my tickets I will not get any refund. Further to book tickets now I have to pay additional Rs. 1.00 lac. Moreover my wife can not take strain of going to Ahmadabad because it has to change the flight at Delhi from international terminal to domestic one. Sir after coming to Kathmandu I checked in market I found that the helicopter services from Nepalgunj to Hilsa and back air tickets from Nepalgwith misc expenses would not cost more than Rs 3.00 lacs where he has charged 6.0 lacs. Sir it seems that he purposely do not give proper food and water so that people get sick and he make them believe it is because nature and high altitude moreover no medical facility creates crises and he takes benefit of the saving expenses on breaking of journey and charging them extra for evacuation. Sir I have information that in parikrma from my group only 15 out of 55 could go and balance had to come back without parikrama. How much money he saved imagine. He charged me INR 1.5 lac per member just for evacuation whereas his standard package by helicopter to Kailash Mansarovar of 7 days stay in Himalaya with all conveyances, lodging boarding is only Rs 1.35 lacs.

Sir I contacted today Mr.A. K. Roy in Indian Embassy in Kathmandu and he wanted the same in writing which I am giving now. Sir I pray for following

1. To protect life of mine and my family from Mr. Pradhan of Shreshtha Holidays.
2. Treat this letter as FIR and start legal action against the Shrestha Holidays in India. He should be given punitive punishment by law so that lives of further Indians are not in danger.
3. Blacklist Shreshtha Holidays and get his all licenses forfeited in India, Nepal and China.
4. Please ensure that all tour operators operating in Himalayas and especially Kailash Mansarovar arranges for proper food, mineral water availability, hot water for bathing, sanitation, medical and doctor facilities.
5. In case if it is required please also contact Chinese Embassy to look in the matter and get conditions improved for tourists of Kailash Mansarovar yatra.

I look forward to your support for getting justice for me and protection for other Indians lives in future.
____________________________________________________________

If you support this group of pilgrims trying to get justice, write to us and we will take your voice to Indian media and government.

KINNER KAILASH CIRCUIT- Google Earth Image

2009 Kailash Manasarover Mukthinath Yatra