Misunderstood tribalism?

“Kenya Burning” is a name for the post election violence in Kenya in 2007/8. It has cost many displaced, death and disabled people. In Nairobi we visited the Go Down Art Centre – which had a photo exhibition of this violence called “Never forget, Never again”. The exhibition made a huge impact on the Danish participants and it was really hard for the Kenyans to bear the witness that this happened in their own country. Kenya burning was the worst example of misunderstood tribalism in Kenya. The politicians used their own failure to turn the different tribes against each other. But ”tribes” doesn’t have to be a bad thing – not at all.
Funny “facts”

Tribes are a huge part of Kenya’s history and culture – and there is a lot for us Danes to learn about the different tribes. And I have already been taught a lot. One of the biggest tribes is called Kikuyu. They were originally farmers, their food is Githeri and they are known as good in business. Another big tribe is the Luos, who eat ugali and fish – as they originally were fishermen. Futhermore, I have heard that the Luos like to show off I have also learned that the Masaai are really good at Volleyball, and it is not fun to be playing against them! Each tribe has its own language, beliefs, and area which they belong too. So there is for sure a lot to remember with 42 tribes in the country so called Kenya.
Don’t forget where you come from

What we discussed at the Coffee bar was whether the youth should see themselves as Kenyans or as a part of their tribe. Today marriage between different tribes is normal, as well as we have seen that the local area around Daraja shows how different tribes can live peacefully together. So the truth might be in between. It is of course important, that having many different tribes don’t lead to any violence. But at the same time, we also talked about how it is important for everyone, and also Kenyans, not to forget the past and the culture. It is a part of who you are, whether you want it or not.
A good example

At a small house in the middle of Kenya, I live with 25 other young people. We have 3 different nationalities, many different religions, and different Kenyan tribes as well. As I see it, the cultural differences between nations and tribes at the platform have become our strength not our problem. We learn from each other, and hopefully in the end of our four months, we have created our own “GCC-identity”! Moreover, I should add that already from our second day together we had one big thing in common. We hope that the name of the exhibition will come true. The violence should be remembered, but it should never happen again.

// Rosie and Anna

My first opportunity to go to Kenya was inopportune as I had to have major surgery. My second opportunity was not possible due to post election violence. The third opportunity occurred in March 2009 and I was able to travel to Kenya.

I fell in love with the parks in Nairobi, the round abouts, walking around in the various sections considered safe, looking at textiles on Bishara Street, eating great samosas or ugali and chicken at various small places. On one Friday I was able to visit Starehe Boys School. I was impressed by so many aspects of the school and the dreams delivered to so many by its founder – it inspired me to want to return to Kenya, I was unsure in what capacity. For all intents and purposes, there was no visible evidence of post election violence- it was a whispered conversation amongst adults and adroitly addressed in op ed pieces in various newspapers. There was a sense of surrender to an imposed calm so people could function.

During the ensuing months of my first journey to Kenya and accepting a job I attempted to research as much as I could about the most recent ‘history’ of Kenya to begin understanding some of the causes of the post election violence. I did not want to understand the evil people could perpetrate on one another, rather I wanted to find a place in my heart for those who were in the process of surviving. I knew that this pivotal event was essential to any change to be made in Kenya. What I visually saw on line and what was explained in writing and what people said did not begin to address what actually occurred. I don’t think the media lied – there is just no way to express all of these tragic events.

Later, as I was leaving Kenya and a friend gave me the photo book Kenya Burning, ISBN 9966-7182-1-4 that I had a more real glimpse into a portion of what happened. Post election violence was at least partially a result of long standing hatred, jealousy induced by decades of colonialism. What ever colonialism did not outwardly destroy in Kenya, the people of Kenya took one step further and poured out the sickest hatred on their own. The need to win an election instead of demonstrate leadership superseded any and all reason. Living with the secondhand knowledge of this tragedy is not the same as living through it.

There is a picture with a hand resting on a rock. It is only a hand – there is no body. In the back of my mind I saw scenes from the movie Hotel Rwanda. There is an ugliness within each photo of Kenya Burning which rips at my heart and yet I know it is nothing compared to the people in each picture or the people outside the photos but who were present for the violence – their pain is genuine and still raw and it may always be an open wound. The anger Kenyans hold regarding corruption is almost reverent.  It is sewn from a frustration that is in the bone marrow.  It is this environment which prevents education from being able to take hold. The population of Kenya and its destiny is better controlled when people do not ask questions nor expect anything.

It was through these same photos I found a way to obtain a ration of forgiveness to myself for not being able to effect any significant change, for being an observer to corruption and hatred but unable to do anything about it. The whole situation was larger than anything I could imagine and clearly will take more than a lifetime to put at rest. What I saw while working in Kenya was merely a dirty residue to a poisonous pile.

To know more about the Kenya Burning project, log onto our website www.thegodownartscentre.com.

Read a review of Kenya Burning on the Daily Nation

Jane and her Mother

The Molo tanker tragedy hit a little closer to home today.

Last night my best friend, Jane, talked to her mom, who lives in Londiani (where I lived for 6 years).

Mama Jane traveled to Nakuru on Saturday to get false teeth. She traveled back to Londiani by matatu (a public transport van) late that evening. About halfway through their journey they happened upon the over-turned lorry. When the driver of the matatu realized what was happening he also stopped take advantage of the free gas. Soon the driver and conductor were busily filling every available container with siphoned gas. When the annoyed passengers complained about the delay they were told to wait.

Finally, the two ran out of containers and the passengers quickly offered a solution. “Take us to the next junction and refund us the remainder of our fare. You can borrow more containers and come back to collect more gas.” So the driver agreed and they left the accident scene behind.

Later that evening after Mama Jane arrived home; she watched the news and discovered that not long after her matatu traveled on, the tanker exploded. Had the containers not run out, Jane’s mother would have been among those lying in a mortuary somewhere, or writhing in pain on a hospital bed.

No, no tribal clashes or such violence, something different. 

In the past week almost 150 Kenyan have died in two separate fires.  One in Nairobi and the other near Molo.

In Nairobi, a popular supermarket in the heart of downtown caught on fire (for reasons yet unknown).  As afternoon shoppers fled the building, others were trapped inside possibly because some exit doors were locked to prevent looting (the truth behind this report had not been confirmed).  The fire presumably encountered gas cylinders and other flammable materials stored in the supermarket causing numerous explosions.  To make matters worse nearby fire hydrants were not functioning so fire fighters were forced to get water from over a mile away. 

That was on Wednesday. Thursday, Friday and Saturday, Kenyans woke up to horrific images in the daily newspapers as fresh details came out, including the death of 27 people and reports of 50 more missing.  Then Sunday morning we woke up to yet another horror story.

Saturday evening a tanker carrying gas over turned in a rural area.  Locals saw the opportunity to put a few extra shillings in their empty pockets and rushed to the scene to collect the leaking petrol.  Surrounded by hundreds of people, the tanker exploded.  Whether it was started by the engine or a carelessly flung cigarette or was intentional may never be known but over 100 people died and nearly 200 more are in various hospitals. 

Watching the news is like watching a horror movie.  Burning buildings, crowds of fleeing people, huge fire balls, people lying in hospital beds with burns from head to foot. 

Why? Bad government?  Poor infrastructure?  Neglect?  Carelessness?  A culture of theft?  Poverty?  Ignorance?  The factors are too many to pinpoint just one.

The government must take some blame.  The police should be equipped to deal with highway accidents and keep people away from danger.  The fire and rescue squads should be prepared and have the resources they need.  The state controlled water company should ensure the fire hydrant work. Politicians should stop eating the money meant to help their people. 

But the common citizen also has a responsibility.  We tend to blame the government for everything.  But the government is so tiny compared to the population of Kenya.  Surely we can do more than they do!  If there are 500 people in the government (President, Prime Minister, Vice President, Deputy Prime Ministers, Members of Parliament, Cabinet Ministers, Deputy Ministers etc…) compared to 35 million common citizens that means Kenyans are complaining that 0.0014% of the population is not doing something about Kenya’s problems.  Well, shouldn’t the 99.9986% do something too? 

Obama has taught the world, “Yes We Can.”  So I ask, “Why can’t we?”