by Donald B. MacGowan

Sunset at Onomea Bay, Hilo Hawaii: Graphic from Photo by Donnie MacGowan

There are many wondrous, enigmatic and fascinating attractions on the Big Island of Hawaii, some better known than others, many out of the way and generally off the beaten track.  Tour Guide Hawaii has produced an encyclopedic collection of the most up-to-date information, presented as short GPS-cued videos, in an app downloadable to iPhone and iPod Touch that covers the entire Big Island, highlighting the popular and the uncrowded, the famous and the secluded, the adventurous and the relaxing.

Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive and Onomea Bay Trail

Jungle and stream, along the Pepe'ekeo Scenic Drive, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donald B MacGowan

Located just north of Hilo on Highway 19, this “Old Road through Old Hawai’i”, a four-mile-half hour scenic wander, parallels Highway 19 but is worlds removed from the traffic and hustle along the main road. The Pepe’ekeo Scenic Drive is a special treat for visitors who may think they waited a century too long to visit Hawai’i.

Drive through the jungle along Pepe'ekeo Jungle Drive, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Beyond breath-taking, in places the narrow road dribbles through jungle so thick that the tree canopy over head pulses green luminescence and sunlight barely flutters to the pavement; the musical air cavorts with the sounds of exotic birds, streams and waterfalls. Stop, soak up this ambiance, the torpid smell of fresh jungle, the sexual scent of glowing flowers, the tropic feel of intense life packed closely around you. In this world time is so heavy you can almost eat it.

Old wooden bridge along the Pepe'ekeo Scenic Drive, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Comprising a 4-mile remnant of the Old Mamalahoa Highway, narrow, winding and beautiful, the Scenic Drive may be taken in either direction; on the Hilo end, it begins at the small town of Onomea (meaning, literally, “the best place”) halfway between the 7 and 8 mile markers on Highway 19; on the Honka’a side, it begins at the 11 mile marker on Highway 19. Look for the “Scenic Drive” signs and be prepared to turn off the highway towards the ocean. On a sunny day, on a rainy day, it doesn’t matter; this scenic drive is a joy.

The one store along the Scenic Drive is in downtown Pepe'ekeo, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Frank Burgess

The drive winds along, over narrow one lane bridges, through paradise and eventually comes to the Hawaii Botanical Tropical Gardens, a commercial garden which takes about an hour to tour. All along the way there are numerous, obvious, hiking trails and swimming holes, but these are on private property for the most part—ask before you trespass.

Over-looking Onomea Bay, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

A scenic overlook of Onomea Bay, near the south end of the Scenic Drive, reveals the wildly scenic, untamed coastline at the mouth of the gulch and beckons casual hikers to explore Onomea Bay. Only a few miles north of tame and sedate Hilo Bay, Onomea Bay is subject to the full fury and magic of the open Pacific Ocean. From the overlook one can see the spiny finger of rock jutting out into the where Onomea Sea Arch once stood, until it collapsed in an earthquake in 1956. Legend has it the sea arch was formed by Kamehameha throwing his spear through the rock, although it doubtless was thousands of years old when it collapsed. Rugged, jagged, majestic, the wickedly sculpted cliffs along the bay belie the easy 20 minute walk down to the beach.

Sunrise comes to the dark jungle gulch at Onomea Bay, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

At the overlook, the old donkey trail leads down to the water. Back in the days before railroads, Onomea Bay was a major port and donkeys would carry sugar, produce and goods being shipped out down to waiting boats at the bay and carry incoming goods back up this trail. Accessible to most walkers of even marginal condition, the trail leads alongside a commercial botanical garden (be sure not to wander through any their gates unless you are a paying customer) and falls forthrightly down to the canon mouth, past a tiny waterfall at the end of the stream and to the beach Onomea Bay. Crossing the stream, the trail continues along a fenced path onto a finger of land and then to tiny Kukilu Bay (Turtle Cove). The two gulches whose mouths you just traversed used to be occupied by Kahili’i fishing village until it was destroyed by the Tsunami of 1946.

Onomea stream drops through the gulch into Onomea Bay, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

A lovely walk and a wildly inspirational place; if you have an extra forty minutes to spare, this walk is well worth the time. The fishing here is great but we don’t recommend swimming here due to the wild currents and rip-tides.

Coconut Grove at Kukilu Cove, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donald B MacGowan

The scenic drive makes a fabulous lazy drive or easy bicycle tour and also presents awesome opportunities for photo taking, bird watching and exploration, but no services.

Onomea Stream nears Onomea Bay: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

To see the new iPhone/iPod Touch App, please visit http://www.tourguidehawaii.com/iphone.html. The best of Tour Guide Hawaii’s free content about traveling to, and exploring, the Big island, can be found here. For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general and on touring the Big Island in particular, please also visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.tourguidehawaii.blogspot.com.

Onomea Stream along the Pepe'ekeo Scenic Drive, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

For independent reviews of our product, written by some of our legions of satisfied customers, please check this out.

All media copyright 2009 by Donald B. MacGowan. All rights reserved.

Pepe'ekeo Scenic Drive End Sign, Hilo Hawaii: Photo by Donald B MacGowan

The sunset in Honolulu - where the days never last long enough (Jerry Garrett Photos)

HONOLULU, Hawai’i

A neighbor tells me that a trip to Honolulu is “like having to fly five hours to get to Orange County.”

Yes, there are similarities: the palms, the weather, the traffic. But what makes Honolulu all that special, or unique – or worth the long flight to get there? Where is the “Hawai’i-ness” in Honolulu? I’ve got 36 hours to find out.

First stop: Chinatown

Did you bring an Aloha shirt or dress? There’s a Hilo Hattie’s, right in the airport (Note: HH also has a store in Orange Co., ironically) , though it’s pricey. But deals on colorful Hawaiian apparel everywhere (when you get home, you’ll smile: ”I wore that in public!”). Chinatown’s a great place for vintage Aloha clothing, at dirt cheap prices

Why pay more?

($3-$5 for Reyn Spooner, Tori Richard, Kahala, etc).

Get lei’d: You can buy leis anywhere, but Chinatown has the best. The freshest. Most beautiful selection. Least expensive ($5-$15!). Male or female, a lei is always in style in Honolulu; wear it and love it while you’re in town – because the agricultural inspection grinches at the airport will take it from you and throw it away, when you leave. (Past security, they will sell you the same lei for $35.)

For dinner in Chinatown, try Legend Seafood. Freshest lobster in town: under $25. Vegetarians: Try Legend’s meat-free annex next door.

Last stop: Chinatown, too

While in Chinatown, try to take in a show at the Hawaii Theatre. Or at least look inside this lavishly restored 1922 treasure. On a recent night, the Brothers Cazimero (island idols) were scheduled to serenade a mostly local audience. Many performances finish with everyone in the audience – yes, including total strangers – holding hands and singing  the hauntingly beautiful state song “Hawai’i Pono’i”. You may need a hankie.

BTW, where should you stay? A personal favorite is the Royal Hawaiian, the first resort (built in 1927) on Waikiki Beach, and still the “Pink Palace of the Pacific”, despite what Sheraton has done to usurp its once-lush gardens for more high-rises. The original building has the Royal Hawaiian’s most authentic rooms.

The Pink Palace of the Pacific - the Royal Hawaiian on Waikiki Beach

But why spend a lot for a hotel these days, while tourism is down, and bargains abound in Honolulu? Besides, if you spend much time in your room on this trip, you’ve missed the whole idea behind 36 hours here.

Loco for moco

Eat breakfast early; most places stop serving it too early, IMHO. Loco moco is an island favorite: fried eggs on hamburger patties on top of rice – smothered in gravy. You can almost feel your arteries harden.

Work that ballast off with a climb to Manoa Falls.

Manoa Falls - worth the hike

It’s a bit hard to find: Up a canyon behind the University of Hawaii campus. But it’s a magical, gentle mile-long climb through a lush rainforest, adorned with tropical flowers, exotic fruits and weird creatures – to a pristine 160-foot-high waterfall. Souvenir vendors at the parking lot will loan you a walking stick for the sometimes slippery journey; be honorable and return it afterward. This place is not overly touristy, even though it is reputed to be O’ahu’s second most popular hike (other than climbing Diamond Head – a worthwhile alternative, if you don’t mind the crowds).

For lunch, assuming your loco moco feast has been atoned for, try a Hawaiian plate lunch – usually some kind of beef, pork or fish with “two scoop-a-rice” (plenty of soy sauce) and macaroni salad or a veggie or two. The Rainbow Drive-In on Kanaina Avenue is an authentic hang-out for this.

Hanauma Bay - swim inside a volcano crater

Blue Hawaii

Afterward, take in an arts/craft show in Kapiolani Park (there’s always one), or sample the famous surf at Waikiki. Too many tourists? Water not gorgeous enough? Try public beaches nearby by at Ala Moana park and Magic Island, Papaoneone or pay the $10 admission to Hanauma Bay Nature Park (in a hollowed out volcano crater). Try to find blue water that color in California.

There are sublime jogging, biking and rollerblading trails all through Honolulu, and some quintessentially Hawaiian sights to see along the way, like

Bo Tree at Foster Botanical Garden

any of the five botanical gardens in town, or elegant ‘Iolani Palace (America’s only royal residence).

At sunset, you should be drinking a mai tai (complete with a little umbrella and pineapple wedge) at

La Mariana Sailing Club

La Mariana Sailing Club – O’ahu’s last honest-to-goodness tiki bar. The iconic and popular proprietess, sadly, passed away in 2008. But her picture and a small memorial still stand guard in the lobby. La Mariana is not easy to find – out behind some steel buildings on the road to Sand Island (another great in-town beach). It is not to be missed. The sunset? You will probably miss it here – because you can hardly see it through the forest of sailboat masts in the marina, tiki god carvings around the restaurant. But, order another mai tai; you won’t care. The food is not as famous as La Mariana’s cocktails (see Mai Tai No. 2 recommendation).

The view from the Hau Tree Lanai Restaurant on Waikiki Beach

The Kama’aina Choice

An alternative dinner suggestion is the Hau Tree Lanai Restaurant at the far end of Waikiki; locals love it, and they know the menu boasts grass-fed beef from a Hawaii ranch. Almost like dining in Argentina! But $$$$!

If you’re still in a romantic or festive mood, try a little dancing, poolside at one of the Waikiki hotels, such as under the giant banyan tree at the Moana Surfrider.

Dawn petrol

Breakfast, seaside at the Royal Hawaiian is unforgettable, especially if you ask the server for their magnificent macadamia nut pancakes (which are not on the menu any more). Served with hot, real maple syrup or lilikoi jelly.

Early risers should not miss a sunrise walk along Waikiki Beach, before the city comes alive. The beach is deserted, seas are glassy, the waters impossibly blue, and the waves perfect. The surf calls to you – like it did to surfing pioneers like Duke Kahanamoku (see his webcam here) and King Kamehameha I (see his famed statue here) – and you’ll want baptize yourself in the calm, warm waters and gentle swells. You are a Honolulu convert now.

Get baptized in the blue Hawaiian Pacific; you're a convert now

If you stop for coffee, know that the Starbucks locations here (and only here) sell bags of 100 percent Kona coffee. The ubiquitous Honolulu Coffee Co. is also a good source for Kona. Sharp-eyed shoppers might even rarer beans from Maui, Lana’i and Kauai. You’ll be tempted – and well advised – to take a few bags home.

Stock up on macadamia nuts and other silly souvenirs (flip-flops, anyone?) at one of the zillions of ABC Stores in town. Why do they need so many ABC Stores – some of which are next door to each other? Like Hawaii’s raindrops, no two are exactly the same.

I’m cheating here on the 36-hour time limit. But you will be sorely tempted too, as well. If you’ve truly tried to avoid the tourist trap luau shows, fire dancers and silly designer shops, you’ll realize at least three things: That this is the one place to experience the original Hawai’i, at its heart, it’s nothing like Southern California; and 36 hours is not enough.

Jerry Garrett

December 15, 2009

by Donald B. MacGowan

Moiokini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Whether you visit the Big Island for a few days, a couple weeks or a few months, you want to make the most of your time in Paradise. With such a wide variety of natural and commercial attractions, it is natural for the visitor to get a little overwhelmed in the “Option Overload” and not be able to make a balanced and informed decision on what they want to do and how best to spend their time.

Kapakai Kokoiki (Kamehameha Akahi Aina Hanau) Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Even choosing which beach you want to spend time on, or where you want to hike can be an exercise in confusion and conflicting advice.  Clearly, visitors to Hawaii could use help making quality decisions about how best to spend their time.

Offerings Left at Kapakai Kokoiki Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Tour Guide Hawaii is excited and proud to announce the release of their new GPS/WiFi enabled App for iPhone and iPod that helps you navigate your trip to Hawaii with hours of informative, location-aware video and information. Although our video guide will lead you to dozens of unusual, untamed and unspoiled spots, let’s look at a pair of important historical sights reached via a great hike, or a really good mountain biking trek, that you might have heard about, but might not be able to find from maps and guidebooks and could otherwise miss if you did not have Tour Guide Hawaii’s new App.

Kohala History and the Birthplace of King Kamehameha: Mo’okini Luakini Heiau and Kapakai Kokoiki (Kamehameha Akahi Aina Hanau) Heiau

Holerhole Stone at Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Introduction: Have you ever been somewhere stark, impressive, primitive and ancient, that was able to raise the hackles on your neck? Mo’okini Heiau on the windswept northern tip of Hawaii Island is just one such place.

A Windfarm on the Windswept Grasslands of Kohala, Near Mo'okini Heiau, Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

The history of Hawaii as a kingdom starts in the grasslands and jungle canyons of North Kohala at two prominent temples, or heiau, which were the respective foci of the swirl of great events and sweep of history that culminated in Kamehameha the Great’s creation of the Kingdom of Hawaii by conquering and uniting all the islands of Hawaii.

The Windswept Grasslands Around Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

It was here in North Kohala, at Mo’okini Heiau, that a new religion was born. Passionate priests and princes from Tahiti reconstituted and revived the laws and society of Hawaii in the 11 and 12^th centuries. New practices of religious worship were introduced and untold thousands of people were sacrificed at Mo’okini to worship a new god, the war god Kuka’ilimoku (also called “Ku”). Born nearby at Kapakai Kokoiki Heiau in about the year 1758, Kamehameha the Great was brought to Mo’okini for his birth rituals.

The Approach to Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

History: During the 11th century, warlike Tahitians arrived in the Hawai’ian Islands, conquering, enslaving, sacrificing and largely displacing the descendants of the original Marquesan settlers. Into this bloody landscape came Pa’ao, the terrible and powerful Tahitian kahuna who was affronted at the lack of respect the Hawai’ian Ali’i commanded and at the apparent weakness of the Hawai’ian gods. He sent back to Tahiti for the warrior chief Pili and together they brought worship of the powerful war god Ku to Hawai’i and strengthened the kapu system of laws and power of the Ali’i.

Inside Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Worship of Ku demanded human sacrifice, which was performed at luakini heiau throughout the parts of Polynesia where Ku was venerated. Pa’ao caused Mo’okini Heiau (literally meaning “many lineages”) to be raised (it is said to have happened in a single night) by as many as 20,000 men passing stones hand to hand from Pololu Valley, 14 miles distant. During this process, if a stone was dropped it was left where it lay to preserve the rhythm of passing; the scattered line of dropped stones can be followed all the way back to Pololu to this day.

Inner Precincts of Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

The alter stones were brought by war canoe from Pa’ao’s home heiau of Taputapuatea (lit. sacrifices from abroad), the most powerful and most feared heiau in Polynesia and the center of Ku worship. Boulders for cornerstones brought hundreds of miles across the sea from Taputapuatea were laid with sacrificed humans beneath them. This gave the heiau a formidable power and an air of menace and despair that clings to it to this day.

Offerings at Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Outside the heiau walls can be found a large phallic rock and a flat stone with a cup-like depression near the top. Here, on this holehole stone, the baked bodies of human sacrifices were stripped of flesh and the bones saved to be rendered into fishhooks and dagger blades. Not much mention of the fate of the human flesh from these sacrifices is made, but it is universally documented that Polynesians everywhere were cannibals. This is a topic that is sometimes difficult for the modern descendants of these people to come to terms with and one which is best, and most polite, to simply accept and not comment or speculate upon.

Framing for a hale pili (grass house) at Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

There is no counting the tens of thousands of Hawai’ians who were made sacrifice here on this stone at barren, terrible Mo’okini over the centuries, but the sacrificial victims were all gathered by a class of kahuna called the Mu, or “body catcher”; the foundation of the dwelling of the Mu can still be found among the ruins of Mo’okini.

One of the Great Wals at Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Well preserved, Mo’okini Heiau stands today at the north end of Hawai’i, the first temple of human sacrifice in Hawai’i and the first site in Hawai’i to be preserved as a National Historic Landmark under the Historic Sites Act of 1935. Mo’okini Heiau is now part of Lapakahi State Historic Park. As Mo’okini is an active Heiau, visitors are reminded to stay away if religious observances are being celebrated.

Kamehameha Akahi Aina Hanau Heiau at Kapakai Kokoiki, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Four tenths of a mile past Mo’okini is the unlikely, lonely and windswept site of fulfillment of a long-standing prophesy amongst the ancient Hawai’ians, Kapakai Kokoiki Heiau, now named Kamehameha Akahi Aina Hanau. Long-foretold was the coming of a warrior king who would unite all the islands into a single kingdom and who would rule wisely, piously and long. Prophecy and legend held that this Ali’i would be terrible in his fierceness, unstoppable in his strength, just in his laws and faithful in his observances to the gods. The prophecy continued that the ruler would be born along the wild northern coast of Hawai’i, the most sacred of the Hawai’ian islands. This ruler would, according to the prophecy, wield power of proportion unknown to previous Hawai’ian Ali’i, but for all this destined greatness, he was prophesied to live a lonely life.

Legendary Birthplace of Kamehameha at Kapakai Kokoiki, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Into this mythic context was born Kamehameha the Great, whose very name means “The Lonely One” in about the year 1758. The large boulders inside the enclosure at Kapakai Kokoiki Heiau are thought to be the same birthing stones on which Kamehameha’s mother, Chiefess Keku’iapoiwa, gave birth to the future ruler.

Hawaii Bureau of Tourism's Idea of a Good Joke, Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Getting There: To reach these impressive sites, turn off Highway 270 onto the Upolu Airport Road near mile 20 (just west of Hawi) and continue 2 miles to the airport. We recommend that you park in the obvious dirt car park by the airport and hike or mountain bike the road 1.6 miles to Mo’okini Heiau, continuing on a further 0.4 miles to Kapakai Kokoiki Heiau. It is possible to drive 4-wheel drive vehicles down this road, but deep ruts, potholes and rocks make it impassable for most passenger vehicles. Also, Kohala is infamous for its ferocious and unpredictable rainstorms which render this road an ordeal in deep oozing mud and slime, unusable to motorized vehicles.

Not far from Mo'okini Heiau is the Original King Kamehameha Statue in Kapa'a, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

This dirt road goes all the way (about 4 miles) past Mo’okini Heiau and the Kamehameha Birthplace to the old Coast Guard Loran Lookout; this makes a wonderful beginner’s mountain biking trip or day hike, especially considering the amazing historical sites along the way.

Retracing your path to the airport and back up to Highway 270, treat yourself to a visit in real Old Hawaii at the small towns of Hawi and Kapa’a. In these small towns you can find restrooms, many of the island’s best restaurants, interesting shops, fantastic art galleries and grocery stores.

Sacred Stones at Mo'okini Heiau, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

To see the new iPhone/iPod Touch App, please visit http://www.tourguidehawaii.com/iphone.html. The best of Tour Guide Hawaii’s free content about traveling to, and exploring, the Big island, can be found here. For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general and on touring the Big Island in particular, please also visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.tourguidehawaii.blogspot.com.

Copyright 2009 by Donald B. MacGowan. All rights reserved.

There are 6 State parks on Maui. Each one nicer than the next and not to be missed. Let’s face it, if you can make happy hour at Tommy Bahama’s you can sure as heck explore one of these world class wonders.
Let’s start with Iao Needle

Iao Needle

Emerald peaks emerge from the lush valley floor of Iao Valley. Located in Central Maui, this peaceful state park is home to one of Maui’s most popular landmarks, the 1200-foot Iao Needle. This rock peak overlooks Iao stream and is an ideal attraction for easy hiking and sightseeing.

Aside from its natural tropical beautiful, sacred Iao Valley has great historical significance. It was here in 1790, at the Battle of Kepaniwai, that King Kamehameha clashed with Maui’s army in his quest to unite the islands. Kamehameha defeated Maui’s forces in a ferocious battle that ultimately changed the course of Hawaiian history.

There is a well-marked path from the parking lot to view Iao Needle and the ridge-top lookout provides incredible views of the valley. The Needle is often covered in clouds, so an early start is your best bet for a good view. Families can also take a rainforest walk or explore interactive exhibits at the Hawaii Nature Center, which is also located within Iao Valley.

Trail Length: 0.6 mi.
Activity: Pedestrian
Difficulty: Easy
Terrain: Wet valley
Elevation Gain: 200 ft
Park Name: ‘Iao Valley State Monument

by Donald B. MacGowan

Mauna Loa looms over the Ka'u Desert, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Whether you visit the Big Island for a few days, a couple weeks or a few months, you want to make the most of your time in Paradise. With such a wide variety of natural and commercial attractions, it is natural for the visitor to get a little overwhelmed in the “Option Overload” and not be able to make a balanced and informed decision on what they want to do and how best to spend their time.

Warrior Footprints of the Ka'u Desert as photo grpahed in 2006, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Even choosing which beach you want to spend time on, or where you want to hike can be an exercise in confusion and conflicting advice.  Clearly, visitors to Hawaii could use help making quality decisions about how best to spend their time.

Frank Burgess hikes the Ka'u Desert Trail: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Tour Guide Hawaii is excited and proud to announce the release of their new GPS/WiFi enabled App for iPhone and iPod that helps you navigate your trip to Hawaii with hours of informative, location-aware video and information. Although our video guide will lead you to dozens of unusual, untamed and unspoiled spots, let’s look at a hike you might have heard about, but might not be able to find from maps and guidebooks and would otherwise miss if you did not have Tour Guide Hawaii’s new App.

Ka’u Desert Trail/ Warrior Footprints, Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park

The Ka'u Desert Trail as it winds away from the Parking Strip, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Just inside the National Park boundary, where the Hawai’i Belt Road enters Hawaii Volcanoes National Park from the West, is a small parking strip that many visitors, in a hurry to visit more well known attractions, might overlook. You should slow down and pay closer attention, because this small parking lot is the gateway to a host of wonders within the Mars-like landscape of the Ka’u Desert section of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

The Ka'u Desert Trail is part of a vast system of intersecting trails within Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

From about 4200 feet elevation down to sea level, the Ka’u Desert Trail wanders across this high, barren expanse of basalt and sand dunes formed of volcanic ash. Other trails intersect the Ka’u Desert Trail and travel from the Hawaii Belt Road east to Kilauea Crater as well as west to the intersection with the Ka’aha Trail then down the Hilina Pali to the coast. Seldom in a National Park is such unrelentingly inhospitable, but intensely spectacular, land made so accessible by trail.

Unconsolodated ash sifts across the Ka'u Desert, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

There is no water, there is no shade, there is no protection from the elements; the land and climate are as unforgiving as they are alluring. For details about hiking or backpacking in this spectacular, empty portion of the Park, contact the Backcountry Office at the Kilauea Visitors Center (808.985.6000). Do not venture from your car here without carrying water.

Ka'u Desert Footprints are preserved under a small ramada: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

But there is something more about this seeming unearthly spot that inspires people’s imagination and draws them to visit this lonely place. Less than a mile, scarcely a twenty minute walk, from the parking lot are the remains of footprints made by a party of doomed warriors more than 200 years ago.

The lunar-like surface of basalt and ash of the Ka'u Desert, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Kilauea’s eruptions are generally characterized by the leisurely, almost peaceful outpouring of lava and occasional more than mild earthquakes. However, it is not unknown for Madam Pele to erupt in a blast of fury, spreading ash and tephra for hundreds of miles. As recently as 1790 and again in 1924, such violent, steam-driven eruptions have occurred. These eruptions result from groundwater percolating downward through the earth to near the volcano’s magma chamber. The water becomes super-heated and, surging along existing structural weaknesses, makes new conduits to the surface, finally erupting in a roiling mass of superheated steam, ash, tephra and rocks. This type of eruption, and the ash they produce, are key to the mystery and eeriness of this site.

The same footprint as shown above, but photographed in 2009; note that erosion and vandalism have greatly degraded the integrity of the cast: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

The warrior footprints preserved here under a modern ramada are believed to have been formed in 1790. At this time, Kamehameha the Great was solidifying his military and political hold on the Island of Hawai’i, though not all his foes were vanquished. His cousin Keoua organized an army and, while Kamehameha was occupied elsewhere, he seized parts of Ka’u and Puna districts. Keoua sent an army overland to directly challenge Kamehameha…however, camping overnight at the volcano they were caught by the massive, explosive eruption. Fearing he had angered Pele, he organized his army into three columns for a hasty retreat from the falling ash. The first column seems to have emerged unscathed, but the second column went missing. When these warriors and their families were encountered by the third column, come searching for them, they were found dead on the ground, in close groups still clutching each other, overcome by the toxic volcanic fumes. The footprints seen here along Ka’u Desert Trail are from these doomed warriors and their families, made and preserved preserved in the the shifting ash dunes of the Ka’u Desert landscape. It is said that as many as 400 warriors, women and children died here.

Ka'u Desert Ohia Lehua Blossom: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

The people of Hawai’i Island accepted Pele’s judgment against the interloping Keoua and, although he continued to fight, he never came close to turning the tide of battle against his cousin, Kamehameha. As an ostensible peace offering to his cousin, Kamehameha invited Keoua to the ceremony sanctifying the newly erected Pu’u Kohola Heiau. However, when Keoua’s canoe approached the temple grounds, he was seized and immediately sacrificed to the War God, Kuka’ilimoku, thus becoming the first human sacrifice at the new luakini heiau and ending a vexing political problem for Kamehameha, all at one time.

The Ka'u Desert Trail as it reaches the Warrior Footprints: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

An emergency phone is available here; there are no other services.

The Warrior Footprints are preserved under this Ramada in the Ka'u Desert, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Frank Burgess

To see the new iPhone/iPod Touch App, please visit http://www.tourguidehawaii.com/iphone.html. The best of Tour Guide Hawaii’s free content about traveling to, and exploring, the Big island, can be found here. For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general and on touring the Big Island in particular, please also visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.tourguidehawaii.blogspot.com.

Copyright 2009 by Donald B. MacGowan. All rights reserved.

Ka'u Desert Ohia and Bee, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

by Donald B. MacGowan

Ahu'ena Heiau in Kailua Kona, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Sacred Carved Temple Posts, or Iki, At Ahu'ena Heiau, Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

Whether you visit the Big Island for a few days, a couple weeks or a few months, you want to make the most of your time in Paradise. With such a wide variety of natural and commercial attractions, it is natural for the visitor to get a little overwhelmed in the “Option Overload” and not be able to make a balanced and informed decision on what they want to do and how best to spend their time.

Choosing which beach you want to spend time on, or where you want to hike or drive can be an exercise in confusion and conflicting advice.  Even more so, finding quality information on the history, culture, geology and natural history of the area can be almost impossible–and much of what you do find is inaccurate, or third-hand retellings that are, well, better stories than histories.  Clearly, visitors to Hawaii could use help making quality decisions about how best to spend their time and understanding what they are seeing, the culture they are visiting.

Ahu'ena Heiau from Kamakahonu Beach, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

This is why Tour Guide Hawaii is so excited and proud to announce the release of their new GPS/WiFi enabled App for iPhone and iPod video tour that helps you navigate your trip to Hawaii with hours of informative, location-aware video and information. Although our video guide will lead you to dozens of unusual, untamed and unspoiled spots, as an example of the fabulous coverage our App for iPhone and iPod provides, let’s look at a fascinating historical site in the heart of Old Kailua Town itself, one which you might pass by, uninterested and uninformed, if you did not have Tour Guide Hawaii’s new App to pique your interest and feed your curiosity.

Ahu’ena Heiau at Kamakahonu Beach

Worlds Collide: Queen Mary and A'huena Heiau, March 2006, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Ancient ruins? Human sacrifice?

If you are the kind of person who enjoys the excitement of archeology, then this next spot on your tour around the island maybe just what you are looking for. Centuries ago the inhabitants of this region built a series of sacred temples, or heiau, which were originally used for the purpose of sacrificing human beings to their war god, Kuka’ilimoku. This particular archeological site is called Ahu’ena Heiau, which in Hawaiian means “Hill of Fire”.

In a Lu'au Renenactment, the Roal Court Approaches Ahu'ena Heiau, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. Macgowan

Take a moment to stop here for a look, who knows what you may find. Who knows what spirits you my encounter. In any event, as you take the time to examine the reconstructed grounds of this particular heiau, keep in mind that to this very day these are places of sanctity and solace for many of the native Hawai’ians. As with all such places, remember to respect this setting as well by not removing anything whatsoever from the site. Meanwhile, as you ponder in your minds just what it is you’re looking at, consider a little history…

Ahu'ena Heiau Rests on an artificial island, as seen from Kamakahonu Beach, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

The heiau rests on an artificial island in Kamakahonu Bay (“Eye of the Turtle”) that at one time ran out past the end of the modern era Kailua Pier, this created a sheltered landing and mooring spot for war canoes. An ancient heiau (sacred temple) has existed on this spot since at least the first millennium, and at the time of Kamehameha’s rise to power was occupied by the ruins of a 15th century heiau luakini, a site of human sacrifice dedicated to the war god Kuka’ilimoku.

The Kona style of carving is considered by many to be the finest in all Polynesia, Ahu'ena Heiau, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

In 1812, King Kamehameha I ordered the heiau enlarged and rebuilt; he spent his life from then until his death in 1819 ruling his kingdom from this spot. Kamehameha I had the temple rededicated as Ahu’ena Heiau (“red-hot heap”, or “hill of fire”), a temple of peace and prosperity dedicated to the fertility god Lono. The entire beach and 4 acre adjacent parcel of land was surrounded by a massive, crescent shaped stonewall. In the past, within the precincts of the walled enclosure, in addition to the temple buildings and Kamehameha’s home were also dwellings for priests, storage huts and a great stone warehouse Kamehameha caused to be constructed for storing rum and gunpowder.

It was at this spot, after Kamehameha I’s death in 1819, that his son and heir, Liholiho, sat down with the great queens Ka’ahumanu and Keopuolani and publicly broke the kapu law of men not eating with women, which effectively ended the era of kapu law. This one-time event was called the ‘ai noa, or “free eating”; the open defiance of kapu law by the King and dowager Queens essentially overturned the basis for Hawai’i’s societal structure. After the ‘ai noa, Liholiho (nee Kamehameha II) ordered the Ahu’ena Heiau destroyed.

At a Lu'au Renenactment, Hula Dancers welcome the Royal Court to Ahu'ena Heiau: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Kamehameha II moved his court to Honolulu in 1820, leaving James Adams Kuakini in charge as governor. Governor Kuakini resided at Kamakahonu until moving into Hulihe’e Palace in 1838. A large fort, with 14-foot thick walls standing 20 feet high was constructed. The fort was a prominent feature and boasted a battery of 18, thirty-two pound cannon. This fortress was nicknamed “The Rock”, and that appellation is still applied to Hawai’i Island in general by residents today.

The current structures seen at Ahu’ena Heiau were re-built in 1975 under the auspices of the Bishop Museum with financial help from the Hotel King Kamehameha and are constructed to 1/3 the original scale.

On the present grounds of the reconstructed temple, the tallest structure is the ‘anu’u (“oracle tower”) where priests in deep trance would communicate with the gods. There is also the main building, the Hale Mana (“house of spiritual power”), and a wicker alter called a lele. Nearby is a smaller hut thatched with banana leaves called the Hale Nana Mahina (“place from which to watch the farmlands”) where Kamehameha would sit and ponder his plantations up mauka in Holualoa.

Carving of the god, Koleamoku, with a golden plover atop his head at Ahu'ena Heiau, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Throughout the temple complex are several kia akua (“temple image posts”) that are carved in distinctive Kona style, considered by many to be the finest in Polynesia. In particular, note the carving of the god, Koleamoku, with a golden plover atop his head. It is held in the Hawaiian oral tradition that a golden plover guided the first Polynesians to Hawaii; it is known by modern ornithologists that Golden Plovers annually migrate between French Polynesia and Alaska via the Hawai’ian Islands, so there may perhaps be a muchtruth to this legend. Koleamoku is a god of healing and of navigation.

Unknown to even most long-time local residents, sandwiched in between the Heiau, the King Kamehameha Beach Resort parking lots and the Kona Waste Water Treatment Plant are a series of over-grown freshwater lakes, a rarity in arid Kona. In the early days of Kailua Town, these ponds provided a source of freshwater for drinking as well as abundant fish. Today, for those in the know, they still provide baitfish and crawfish for fishermen. (SHHHH!).

A Polynesian Outrigger Racing Canoe speeds past Ahu'ena Heai: Photo by Donald B. MacGowan

To see the new iPhone/iPod Touch App, please visit http://www.tourguidehawaii.com/iphone.html. The best of Tour Guide Hawaii’s free content about traveling to, and exploring, the Big island, can be found here. For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general and on touring the Big Island in particular, please also visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.tourguidehawaii.blogspot.com.

Ahu'ena Heiau in the sunset, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Copyright 2009 by Donald B. MacGowan. All rights reserved.

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For those of you are are unfamiliar with it, the Statuary Hall in our Nation’s capitol is a pretty impressive sight. It’s a truly democratic forum for bronze  and marble citizens of the various states. Like Senators, there are two of them per state, and the theory is that they’ll represent the flower of each state’s citizenry.  (See http://www.aoc.gov/cc/art/nsh/index.cfm?sort=theyear for more info and a list of who’s who in the collection.) As we gained states and statues over our 200+ year history, the hall (which used to be the House Chambers, )began to look like somebody’s attic. Notables were stacked three deep and you could hardly get a decent view of who was who. And, tragically, the law that created it didn’t allow for substitutes.

But that all began to change in 1933, when House Resolution 47 decreed that some of the crowd could slide over a bit and be displayed elsewhere,like in corridors in the area. Showed them all off to their best advantage.

The statues originally  started going in in 1876 and, as with all things that span centuries, some of the flowers are pretty wilted. States have, from time to time, realized they had no idea who those guys were. And, also, we’ve become sensitive to a lot of other facets in public life. Generals and suits of every strip came under question as we opened our eyes and noticed the underrepresented around us. In 2000, Public Law lifted the “in for life” laws and states have been doing the Washington shuffle ever since.

The latest of these is in the great state of Ohio. Seems as though one of their national reps, William Allen, was a pro-slavery guy and made some incendiary statements about blacks during his term. We don’t cotton to that these days, and the state has a few contenders in mind to replace him, like Annie Oakley (her reputation has, after all, survived for 100 years, she is a woman, and she could really  please the gun lobby), Thomas Edison who lived there for seven years, native sons the Wright Brothers, and ummm…. Dean Martin????  Whoever wins will join President Garfield (remember him?) in that marble hall.

Some of the changes are pretty impressive. Helen Keller is replacing Confederate General Jabez Monroe Curry. Reagan will replace California’s Thomas Starr King and of course, Eisenhower bounced Kansas’ George Washington Glick. See http://www.google.com/hostednews/ap/article/ALeqM5ieaxmd9kv2fdR8vp3G0vbt7_5kmgD9A2GO701 for more info.

We don’t sweep native American’s under the rug any more either. Po’pay, New Mexico’s entry, joined five others, including King Kamehameha I (1969),  Sakakawea (2003), Sequoyah (1917), Washakie(2000), and Sarah Winnemucca (2005).

So the immutable statues and reputations that fill the hallowed halls are (it must be admitted) just as vulnerable to scandal and revision as anything else in that city of politics. Stay tuned….

North Kona and Kohala: Ancient History, Sumptuous Beaches
Approximate minimum time start to finish (to see every site) 8 hours.

by Donnie MacGowan

The tour begins at the Keauhou Historic District with ancient battlefields, heiau (stone temples), surfing beaches and shopping in Kailua Kona. 15 minutes north of town is Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park. See how Hawai’ians used aquaculture to create thriving communities in desolate areas. Among the many coastal sites, Hapuna Beach State Park, 30 minutes north, is rated in the Top 10 Best Beaches of the world, then stop 20 minutes further at Pu’u Kohala National Historic Park to visit an enormous heiau erected to the war god, Kuka’ilimoku. After several more sites, the road ends at Pololu Valley where wild ocean, cliffs, rainforest, waterfalls and a black sand beach make for stunning photographs plus a one hour hike. Looping back, Highway 250 cruises 45 minutes over Kohala Volcano to the lush pastures of Waimea for history of ranching in Hawaii as well as great shopping and dining. From Waimea it is one hour back to Kona.

Leg 1) In Kailua Kona, start at Keauhou Historic District, southern point. Drive Ali’i Drive north to Kahalu’u Beach, Keauhou Historic District (north terminus), La’aloa Beach and Ahu’ena Heiau.

Keauhou Historic District and Kona Coffee

Kue'manu Heiau: the only temple to surfing gods still in use today: Keauhou Historic District, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

For almost 400 years, temples and palaces along the Kona coastline served as a kind of “Rome of the Pacific”, a great political, religious and cultural center in Polynesia, until the capital was moved to Honolulu in 1850 by Kamehameha III. The most important, interesting and best preserved historical and cultural sites lie within the Keauhou Historic District, between Kahalu’u Beach Park in Kailua running south 6 miles to Kuamo’o Bay in Keauhou. The District contains perhaps a dozen fascinating sites that are easy to walk to, well maintained and quite interesting.

To see the numerous fascinating and important archaeological sites in the Keauhou Historic District, it is necessary to park your car in the free parking at either Kahalu’u Beach Park or the Keauhou Beach Resort and explore on foot.

Just uphill from the Historic District is the Kona Coffee District. Hawaii is the only state in the union which produces coffee, and Kona coffee is perhaps the finest in the world. Over 2 millions pounds of coffee a year are produced on about 600, 2-3 acre farms; tours of coffee farms and roasteries are available.

Kahalu’u Beach County Park

Kahalu'u Beach, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Loll in sand and sun under swaying palms, snorkel among rainbow-colored fish on a protected reef or ride surf where the Kings of Hawai’i defined the sport a thousand years ago! Kahalu’u is the crown jewel of Kona Coast County Beach Parks. This is the premiere snorkeling beach of the Island of Hawai’i; the snorkeling is in calm, shallow water. There is an abundance of fish of an enormous variety…perhaps the best display on the island. Go carefully into the water, being sure not to harass the endangered turtles, feed or harm the fish, nor touch or stand upon the corals.
There are numerous sites of historic importance around the park. It was here that the great queen, Ka’ahumanu, and her cousin Kuakini (later Territorial Governor) were raised. Abundant parking, disabled access, picnic tables, two shaded pavilions, two sets of public restrooms, showers and lifeguards round-out the facilities of this beautiful beach park.

La’aloa Beach County Park (White Sands/Magic Sands)

Boogie Boarders At La'aloaBeach, Kona Hawaii: Poto by Donne MacGowan

La Aloa Beach Park is a small, but fascinating, beach. The beach derives the name “Magic Sands” from the fact that for most of the summer and fall, it is a beautiful sandy beach. However, winter and spring storms wash the sand offshore, exposing a rocky terrace. With the onset of summer currents, the sands return. The surf is short, but spectacular, here, and many locals boogie board and body surf. Because of the violent, near shore nature of the break, it is not recommended for beginners.

The La’aloa Heiau, makai of the parking lot, is very sacred to the native Hawai’ians and a hotly contested archeological site. Although not fenced off, visitors are asked not to wander the grounds of the heiau, disturb stones or walls. A county facility, it boasts showers, toilets and running water in addition to a volleyball court and lifeguards stationed throughout the day (except State Holidays).

Ahu’ena Heiau and Kamakahonu Beach

Ahu'ena Heiau Temple Precincts, Kailua Kona, Hawaii: Photo by Donald MacGowan

Centuries ago the inhabitants of this region built a series of sacred temples, or heiau, which were originally used for the purpose of sacrificing human beings to their war god, Kuka’ilimoku. This particular archeological site is called Ahu’ena Heiau, which in Hawaiian means “Hill of Fire”.

Built originally in the 15th century and rededicated by Kamehameha the Great in the early 1800s as the main temple of his capital, the current structures seen at Ahu’ena Heiau were re-built in 1975 under the auspices of the Bishop Museum with financial help from the Hotel King Kamehameha and are constructed to 1/3 the original scale. There are restrooms and showers located on the pier near the beach. Adjacent Old Kailua Town is a treasure of shops, restaurants and aloha.

Leg 2) From Ahu’ena Heiau, drive Palani Road east to Hwy 19; go north on Hwy 19 to Koloko Honokohau National Historic Park.

Kaloko-Honokohau National Historic Park

Kaloko Honokohau National Historic Park, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

At Honokohau, ancient Hawai’ians took advantage of abundant freshwater springs to site a large community centered on fishing, fishponds and taro fields. The National Historic Park preserves a vast complex of important archeological sites, including heiaus, fishponds, a fish trap, house sites, burials, a holua (sledding track), a Queen’s Bath and abundant petroglyphs. The Information Center, which is near Highway 19, is open from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., and has full facilities, restrooms and a small souvenir and bookshop.

Leg 3) Continue north on Hwy 19 to Kekaha Kai State Park, Kua Bay, Anaeho’omalu Bay, Waialea Beach and Hapuna Beach.

Kekaha Kai State Park

Makalawena Wilderness Beach, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

At Kekaha Kai, there are a wonderful set of beaches plunked down in one of Hawai’i Island’s gem parks. The northernmost and loveliest beach is Mahai’ula and the smaller, more southerly, less fine one is Ka’elehuluhulu Beach. The water is fine for swimming and boogie boarding but may be a little murky for ideal snorkeling. There are numerous small springs along the entire beach making the near-shore water a little cold. Hidden in a little pocket of wilderness, perhaps the finest beach on the island, Makalawena Beach, is contained in this park. It is reached by a 20-30 minute hike over beaches and rough lava from the parking lot. Swimming and snorkeling on this uncrowded, indeed largely unknown, beach are beyond excellent. Facilities include public restrooms and picnic tables, but no drinking water.

Kua Bay

Kua Bay, Kona Hawaii: Photo by Donald MacGowan

The site of Kona’s newest beach park, this is a lovely white sand beach. Although there is no shade to speak of, the swimming and boogie boarding in the crystalline waters is primo. Strong currents and large waves call for respect here, if the surf is up. Also, sometimes in winter the surf removes the sand to offshore, leaving a rocky shelf that is less fun to frolic on than the sandy beach.

Access is via a newly paved road recently opened to the public (on the ocean-side from the Veteran’s Cemetery). Park facilities include parking, picnic tables, restrooms and water. Wild goats are frequently seen in this area.

Anaeho’omalu Bay

Anaeho'omalu Beach, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

The most photographed sunset view on the Island of Hawai’i, Anaeho’omalu Bay is the icon of what most visitors envision Hawai’i to be like before they get here…swaying palm trees, a clean beach fronting warm, safe, swimmable ocean and eager beach boys bearing large, tropical drinks with comical names like “Malahini Wahine Wahoo”. Here at the bay, one can rent snorkel or surfing gear, sign-up for sailing trips, snorkel tours, windsurfing lessons or scuba dives, order food and drinks, or just lounge pleasantly in the niumalu (shade of the coconut palms). Facilities and services are available at A-Bay and on the nearby resort grounds.

Waialea Beach (Beach 69)

Waialea Beach, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

A perfect crescent of golden sand backed by abundant shade at the edge of the beach makes this an ideal, though little known, family beach. A chain of tiny islands and pinnacles leads northward to crystalline water and a long coral reef for some of the most outrageous snorkeling and shore diving anywhere in the state. On windy days the water in the bay is a tad murkier than ideal for snorkeling, but most of the visitors to this beach don’t seem to mind. Restrooms, picnic tables, water and showers round out the facilities.

Hapuna Beach

Hapuna Beach, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Always rated in the Top 10 of American beaches, Hapuna Beach is the premiere beach destination on the Island of Hawai’i. Long, wide and phenomenally sandy, it has everything one dreams of in a Hawai’ian beach: abundant sun, surf, clean, clear and quiet snorkeling water, shade and well-maintained facilities.

There are lifeguards, several pavilions, barbecues, picnic tables, restrooms, showers and a small café. The center of the beach is for wave play and boogie boarding, the north and south coves are quieter, for snorkeling or gentle floating. Although most patrons must walk about 100 yards down a path from the parking lot, Handicapped Parking exists right on the beach.

Leg 4) Continue North on 19 to jct with Hwy 270; north on 270 to Pu’u Kohola and Lapakahi State Park.

Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historic Park

Pu'u Kohola National Historical Park, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald MacGowan

A temple inspired by a god-sent vision of greatness, Kamehameha built Pu’ukohola in response to a prophecy by Kaua’i kahuna Kapoukahi that foretold if he built a great temple to his war god Ku in one day, Kamehameha would prevail in his wars of conquest and unite the Hawai’ian Islands. Perhaps as many as 20,000 people passing stones hand-to-hand from Pololu Valley raised this massive Heiau in a single day.

Pu’ukohola is the largest stone structure in Polynesia, not counting the modern rock wall in front of the Kailua Lowe’s Hardware store. The National Historic Park has a very nice, new visitor’s Center and Book Shop, clean restrooms and picnic facilities. Adjacent to the Park is Spencer Beach Park which has a full range of facilities as well as wonderful, protected swimming and snorkeling.

Lapakahi State Historical Park

Lapakahi State Historical Park, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donald MacGowan

At Lapakahi State Historical Park you can walk through the partially –restored remains of a 600-year old Hawai’ian fishing village, Koai’e.

Bear in mind that Kohala was not always the barren wasteland seen today. Initially dryland forest, a thousand years ago or more the native Hawai’ians burned the forest to clear farmland for dryland crops such as sweet potato. Primitive farming techniques, overpopulation, overgrazing by cattle and climate changes caused this area to become desert like. Admission is free, self-guided tour takes about 45 minutes. There are portable toilets but no water available.

Leg 5) Continue north, north east on Hwy 270 to jct with Upolu Point Road (incorrectly spelled “Opolu Point Road” on Google Maps; sometimes also labeled “Upolu Airport Road”). Continue north on Upolu Point Road to Mo’okini Heiau.

Mo’okini Heiau

Mo'okini Heiau, Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Have you ever seen anywhere as stark, impressive, primitive and ancient, yet still able to raise the hackles on your neck? Here, untold thousands of people were sacrificed to worship a new god, the war god Ku. Mo’okini Heiau stands today at the north end of Hawai’i, the well preserved remains of a terrible luakini heiau built by the powerful Tahitian kahuna Pa’ao in the 11th or 12th century. This heiau was the first temple of human sacrifice in Hawai’i and the first site in Hawai’i to be preserved as a National Historic Landmark under the Historic Sites Act of 1935. Mo’okini Heiau is now part of Lapakahi State Historic Park; as Mo’okini is an active Heiau and visitors are reminded to stay away if religious observances are being celebrated. There are no facilities here.

Leg 6) Return Upolu Point Road to Hwy 270, continue north east to King Kamehameha Statue, Pololu Valley.

King Kamehameha Statue and North Kohala

King Kamehameha Statue, North Kohala Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

The green and lush north end of Hawaii Island contains a treasure trove of interesting small towns, important historic sights and incredible scenery.

The dreamy mountain town of Hawi is one of the few remaining outposts of what locals call “old Hawai’i”. Several small shops, galleries and restaurants make this a pleasant place to visit and grab something to eat on the way to or from Pololu Valley.

At 5480 feet, Kohala Volcano is the northernmost and oldest volcano on the Island of Hawai’i still above sea level. Perhaps the most ecologically diverse area on the island, the Kohala Mountains are dissected by deep, lush tropical valleys, and the slopes are covered by dryland forest, lava deserts, lonely windswept steppes and end in some truly wild beaches.

In the center of the tiny town of Kapa’au on the mauka side of the highway, stands a storied statue of King Kamehameha the Great. There are a few charming restaurants, shops and galleries in Kapa’au, including the justly famous Kohala Book Shop—definitely worth spending some time poking around. Hawi and Kapa’au have the only food and gas available north of Highway 19.

Pololu Valley

Pololu Valley, Hamakua Coast Hawaii: Photo by Donnie MacGowan

Violent, lush, wild; the north end of Hawai’i Island is as varied and exciting as it is unexpected. At the end of the highway are the Pololu Valley Overlook and the trail leading down to Pololu Black Sand Beach. The trail down to the beach drops 400 feet in 20 minutes of hiking—be forewarned, the hike up is difficult for those not in good physical shape and shoes, rather than slippers, are best here. This is one of the most beautiful, untamed spots in the tropical Pacific and should not be missed. There are no facilities at the valley overlook or within the valley.

Leg 7) Return west on Hwy 270 to jct with Hwy 250; take Hwy 250 south to Waimea.

Waimea Town and Cowboy Country

Waimea Town, Hawaii: Photo by Donald MacGowan

Snuggled between Mauna Kea and Kohala Volcano in Hawaii’s scenic mountain heart, seemingly always shrouded in mist and chilly, Waimea is definitely Hawai’ian cowboy country. Although jeans and flannel shirts appear to be the town uniform, Waimea is very sophisticated, boasting some of the finest shopping and restaurants and the most modern hospital on the island.

From Waimea, Highway 250, the Kohala Mountain Road, spills beautifully through mountain, upland meadow and forest to the “Old Hawaii” town and artist community at Hawi.

Additionally, the cattle industry centers in Waimea. In 1793 British Navigator George Vancouver presented cows to King Kamehameha which were allowed to roam free and soon became a problem. Shortly after horses were brought to Hawaii in 1804, Kamehameha recruited California vaqueros, whom Hawai’ians called “paniolo”–a corruption of the word “Espańol”–to control the wild herds, and the generations-old ranching lifestyle here was born.

The vaqueros also brought their guitars and their love of music. A deeply musical people, the Hawaiians were intensely interested in these, the first stringed instruments they had seen. They quickly learned to work-out their own tunings, called “slack key guitar”, which more suited the style of their indigenous music.

Leg At Waimea, take Hwy 190 to return to Kailua Kona.

Kailua Kona, Hawaii: Photo by Donald MacGowan

For more information on traveling to Hawaii in general and on touring the Big Island in particular, please also visit www.tourguidehawaii.com and www.tourguidehawaii.blogspot.com.  For information about the author, please go here.

All media copyright 2009 by Donald B. MacGowan; all rights reserved.

The week of festivities surrounding King Kamehameha’s birth, wraps up on Saturday, June 13, 2009 with Na Kamehameha Commemorative Pa’u Parade and Ho’olaulea on Front Street in Lahaina.

Image Courtesy Lahaina Hawaiian Civic Club.

Parade Marshals Adelaide Kaiwi Kuamu Sylva and Henrietta Heneli Mahuna were selected because of their command of the Hawaiian Language.  Both are 95-year-old Lahaina natives who grew up in Olowalu.

The two reflect the essence of this year’s event theme, “E Ho‘i I Ka Piko Aloha A E Ola Mau Ka ‘Olelo Hawai‘i — Return To Cultural Honor & Caring – The Hawaiian Language Lives.”

Opening ceremonies begin at 9 a.m. at Keawa’iki ParK.  At 9:45 the parade begins featuring Pa’u riders, floats and marching units.  The starting point is at Kenui Street, then the parade heads south along Front Street, ending at the old Lahaina Armory Park across from Moku’ula.

The parade route will also feature commentary along the parade route at select locations along Front Street including Longhi’s, Kimo’s, Cheeseburger in Paradise, BJ’s Chicago Pizzeria and The Wharf Cinema Center.

“Usually a Pa’u queen leads the procession, dressed in red, followed the islands’ princesses, ladies in waiting and paniolos adorned in the colors and flowers particular to each island,” explained Daryl Fujiwara, who serves as one of the event coordinators.

“Red with ohia lehua represents the island of Hawaii; pink with lokelani for Maui, gray or blue with hina hina for Kahoolawe; orange with kaunaoa for Lanai, green with kukui for Molokai, yellow with ilima for Oahu, purple with mokihana for Kauai and white or brown with Pupu o Niihau for the tiny Island of Niihau.”

Front Street will be closed to traffic starting at 9:00 a.m. Admission to the parade and Ho’olaule’a is free. For more information about the Parade and the Ho’olaule’a please call Fujiwara at 808-242-7282.

The festivities continue with a Ho’olaulea featuring entertainment, awards, crafters and food booths beneath the banyan tree through 5 p.m.

(by Wendy OSHER © 2009)

Our news crews were on hand to record highlights from last year’s (2008) event in the video below:

The Royal Order of Kamehameha Kahehili Chapter IV on Maui honored King Kamehameha in an Ali’i Sunday service at Wai’ola Church in Lahaina over the weekend.  The event is one of several being held across the island and the state to commemorate the accomplishments of Kamehameha I.

Members of Maui's royal societies presented ho'okupu (gifts) at the cemetery grounds of the Wai'olo Church as part of this weekend's Ali'i Sunday activities. Photo by Wendy Osher 2009.

In attendance were members of the Royal Order, Aha Hui Ka’ahumanu, Hale o Na Ali’i and Na Koa Kau I Ka Meheu O Na Kupuna.  The Royal Order Kahekili Chapter carried a set of kahili (feather standards) recently refurbished by students at King Kekaulike High School.  The kahili dates back several generations and will be used into the future as part of the Royal Order’s protocol and procession.

The services also included the presenting of ho’okupu (gifts) at the cemetery grounds of the Church.  Those in attendance paid reverence to the ruler also known as Kamehameha The Great, Pai’ea, and Kamehameha I.

Kamehameha is recognized for establishing the Kingdom of Hawaii in 1810, commissioning the Hawaii Flag and creating the Law of the Splintered Paddle to protect human rights.

The Royal Order will commemorate Kamehameha’s birth on Thursday June 11^th with a procession down Ka’ahumanu Avenue in Kahului.

The royal society annually observes the day with reverence paying special attention to the significance of Kamehameha’s role in Hawaiian history.

The march down Kaahumanu Avenue is a procession as opposed to the celebratory parades held across the state, beginning at 9 a.m. at the main entrance of Maui Community College, and ending at Hoaloha Park.

The week of festivities wraps up with Na Kamehameha Commemorative Pa’u Parade and Ho’olaulea on Front Street in Lahaina.  The event will be held on Saturday, June 13.

Image courtesy Lahaina Hawaiian Civic Club.

The theme of this year’s event, “E Ho‘i I Ka Piko Aloha A E Ola Mau Ka ‘Ölelo Hawai‘i” means, Return To Cultural Honor & Caring – The Hawaiian Language Lives.

Posters for the event feature the ‘alala (native crow), which dwells deep in the uplands and is known for its distinct voice.  The species is favored by Hawaiians today to work fervently to reclaim the Hawaiian language.

The parade, which honors all of those in the Kamehameha lineage, begins at 9:45 a.m. on Saturday June 13, with the Hoolaulea running from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. underneath the Banyan Tree in Lahaina.

(Posted by Wendy OSHER © 2009; Photos by Wendy Osher © 2009)

**Our crews were on hand during the 2008 event and captured the following footage on Na Kamehameha Commemorate Pa’u Parade & Ho’olaulea 2008.

May 1st seems to be a big day for “kings” …

On May 1st of 1328, the Treaty of Edinburgh-Northampton recognized the Kingdom of Scotland as independent from the Kingdom of England. That declaration was reversed exactly 379 years later – May 1st, 1707 – when the Act of Union joined the Kingdoms of Scotland and England to form Great Britain.

King Kamehameha I (pictured) established the Kingdom of Hawai’i on this date in 1785.

The star of “Blue Hawaii,” Elvis Presley (the King of Rock and Roll), married Priscilla Beaulieu in Las Vegas on May 1st, 1967.

And the Empire State Building, a popular hangout of King Kong, was dedicated in New York on May 1st, 1931.

The reverse of Hawaii’s quarter features Hawaiian monarch King Kamehameha I stretching his hand toward the eight major Hawaiian Islands. Inscriptions are the state motto "UA MAU KE EA O KA ‘ĀINA I KA PONO," ("The life of the land is perpetuated in righteousness"), "Hawaii" and "1959." Source: United States Mint

I’m no coin collector by any stretch of the imagination, although my co-workers might argue that if you look in my desk drawer, you’ll find a completely different scenario. Okay, so I have about $25 in loose change in there. What’s the big deal?

But on Monday, November 10, I’m planning to become a coin collector for a day and that’s because the Hawaii quarter will be officially launched at Bishop Square in downtown Honolulu at noon. According to a press release issued by the United States Mint:

The Hawaii commemorative quarter-dollar will be the final coin produced in the United States Mint’s 50 State Quarters® Program, the most successful coin program in U.S. history.  An estimated 147 million people collect the quarters in this popular series. United States Mint Director Ed Moy will join Governor Linda Lingle in handing out shiny new Hawaii quarters to children under 18 who attend the launch.  This lunchtime event is free to the public. After the ceremony, featuring a keiki (children’s) hula performance and Hawaiian music, the public may exchange bills for $10 rolls of Hawaii quarters at the event.  Banks across Hawaii will also have the new quarters available that afternoon.

If any of my blog, Facebook, LinkedIn, or Twitter followers are anxious to get their hands on a Hawaii quarter, connect with me. I’m planning to purchase a few rolls and would be glad to see what I can do to get a quarter to you. Here’s how I’m thinking we can do this:

• Mail a quarter and a self-addressed stamped envelope to me and I’ll put a Hawaii quarter in the mail back to you.
• My work address is: McNeil Wilson Communications, 1003 Bishop Street, 9th Floor, Honolulu, HI 96813

If you plan to be at the ceremony on Monday, I’ll look forward to seeing you there!

-NGK

The Kam family posing for a photo with a herd of cows on our way to Kohala.

Day two on our recent Big Island vacation took us to the quaint town of Kohala, the birth place of King Kamehameha. We made the drive from Kona more to take in the scenery than anything else. They don’t call this place the Big Island for nothing. It’s twice the size of all the other islands combined and while the drives can be lenghty to get from place to place, the views along the way are priceless.

The goal was to make it to Pololu Valley lookout before heading to Queen’s Marketplace in Waikoloa Beach Resort for dinner at Sansei Seafood Restaurant and Sushi Bar. But that plan was spoiled when we got to the valley lookout and police had blocked off the entrance due to a hiker being air lifted out after having a heart attack. No biggie. We just turned around and headed to dinner early. We enjoyed shopping around Queen’s Marketplace and ended a great day with some delicious sushi at Sansei. Just how good was the meal you ask? So good, I forgot to take photos.

White coral "graffiti" against the jet black lava fields is a common scene along the roads on the Big Island. That's Mauna Kea looming in the background.

Puukohola Heiau National Historic Site built by Kamehameha in the 1790s near Kawaihae is a popular cultural stop on the way to Kohala.

Ensen and Kona Grandma having fun in the car on the way to Kohala.

We came across a field of windmills near Upolu Airport. Who knew?

The original Kamehameha Statue in Kohala is a popular photo opportunity that I couldn't pass up.

Ensen and Kona Grandpa checking out some of the cool artwork displayed around Queen's Marketplace.

A crowd gathers at Queen's Marketplace to enjoy live music as the sun sets.

-NGK

Achtung: wegen schlechtem Wetter verlegt auf 27. und 28. Juni 2008!
Das größte Ibiza-Festival Europas zog 2006 mehr als 9000 Besucher in seinen Bann. Vom 12. bis 14. Juni 2008 wiederholen die Initiatoren, der King Kamehameha Beach und Big City Beats, das Spektakel. Erstmalig verwandelt sich der KingKa Beach ganze drei Tage und Nächte zur ibizenkischen Insel der Superlative. DJs wie House-Legende Roger Sanchez, Defected Boss Simon Dunmore oder Hit-Wonder Eddie Thoneick bringen den Strand in Extase. 20 weitere DJs aus Ibizas angesagtesten Clubs wie dem Privilege oder dem Jockey Club supporten die Stars. Cocoon Ibiza entsendet nicht nur seine DJs, sondern organisiert auch die After Hour im heimatlichen Cocoon Club, der nur wenige Kilometer vom Beach Areal entfernt liegt. House-Ikone Crystal Waters kommt gemeinsam mit DJ Lenny Fontana aus New York angereist, um live auf der großen Hauptbühne zu performen. Eine 25 Quadratmeter große LED-Wand überträgt die Acts. Feuertänzer, Skybeamer und ein Großfeuerwerk erhellen die Insel und bringen Magie in die Frühsommernacht. Ein Hippie-Markt verbreitet Ibiza-Flair. Für Fußballfans werden die wichtigen Turniere auf dem großen LED-Screen übertragen. Pünktlich zum Event erscheint Islands Volume 5, mixed by KingKa-Resident Steve Blunt, noch vor der Veröffentlichung als Promotionkopie für Journalisten.

Schon die erste Islands-Auskopplung war ein Erfolg und erreichte die Top 30 der offiziellen Media Control Charts. Die besten Stücke der Compilations können Sie zudem ab Juli an Bord der Condor hören. Der neue King Kamehameha Kanal unterhält die Passagiere auf sämtlichen Flügen mit feinsten Chill-Out-Tracks.

Bei schlechtem Wetter wird Islands in den King Kamehameha Club Frankfurt verlegt!
Aktuelle Infos dazu findet man rechtzeitig unter: www.king-kamehameha.de

Islands – das Programm
Donnerstag, 12. Juni – Open Doors: 15.00 Uhr
Fußball-Live-Übertragung der EM-Spiele auf 25 Quadratmeter großen LED-Wand
18:00 Uhr: Kroation – Deutschland
20:45 Uhr: Österreich – Polen
Roger Sanchez (New York) (Release yourself / Stealth Records)
Steve Blunt (King Kamehameha/BigCityBeats)
Marco Petralia (BigCityBeats)
Specials: Großlaser /LED Wall/Visuals
Eintritt: 15 Uhr – 18 Uhr: 5 Euro
Eintritt: 18 Uhr – 20 Uhr: 10 Euro
Eintritt: Ab 20 Uhr: 15 Euro
Bei Regen findet das Islands-Opening mit Roger Sanchez im King Kamehameha Club Frankfurt statt!

Freitag, 13. Juni – Open Doors: 15.00 Uhr
Defected Stage:
Simon Dunmore (London)– Defected Eivissa 2008
Eddie Thoneick (CR2/Ministry Of Sound UK)
Steve Blunt (BigCityBeats/KKC)
Water Floor:
Chris Tietjen (Cocoon Recordings)
Patric La Funk (Toolroom Rec/Flamingo Rec)
Marco Petralia (BigCityBeats)
Euphonic Funk (BigCityBeats)
Sebastian Lutz (bcb Tech)
Specials:
Feuerwerk
Cocoon Club Dream & Dare Tänzer
Großlaser
LED Wall
Visuals
Hippie Market
Official Afterhour: Cocoon Club
Sven Väth/Chris Tietjien
Eintritt: 15 Uhr – 18 Uhr: 5 Euro
Eintritt: 18 Uhr – 20 Uhr: 10 Euro
Eintritt: Ab 20 Uhr: 15 Euro
Afterhour: 5 Euro (Tickets nur im Beach Club erhältlich)
Bei Regen findet Islands mit Simon Dunmore und Eddi Thoneik im King Kamehameha Club Frankfurt statt!

Samstag, 14. Juni – Open Doors: 15.00 Uhr
Fußball-Live-Übertragung der EM Spiele (TV Corner)
18:00 Uhr: Schweden – Spanien 20:45 Uhr: Griechenland – Russland Center Stage:
Live on Stage: Lenny Fontana (New York) feat. Crystal Waters (New York) Live
Percussion, Live – Sax DJs: Bruno from Ibiza (Blue Marlin / Ibiza) Marco Petralia
(BigCityBeats) Gianni N Blue (Ibiza) Water Floor:
C-Rock (CocoonClub)
Zappi (Nassau Beach Resort)
Hardfunk Project (Café Del Mar/Ibiza)
Sin Plomo (Sa Trinxa/ biza)
Voodoo – Ministry Of Sound (Clubbers Guide To Ibiza)
Specials:
Großeuerwerk
Cocoon Club Dream & Dare Tänzer
Großlaser
LED Wall
Visuals
Hippie Market
Official Afterhour: Cocoon Club – C- Rock
Eintritt: 15 Uhr – 18 Uhr: 5 Euro
Eintritt: 18 Uhr – 20 Uhr: 10 Euro
Eintritt: Ab 20 Uhr: 15 Euro
Afterhour: 5 Euro (Tickets nur im Beach Club erhältlich)
Bei Regen findet das Islands Finale im KingKamehameha Club Frankfurt statt!

Übrigens: Die Islands-CD ist ab Ende Juni im Handel und im Online-Bordshop der Condor erhältlich: www.condor.com.

Adresse und weitere Infos:
Islands – the Grand Ibiza Festival vom 12. bis 14. Juni 2008
King Kamehameha Beach
Hafeninsel 2
63065 Offenbach
www.king-kamehameha.de

http://www.king-kamehameha.de/index2.php?lang=de