Part 1:  India on a Plate

When I think India I think two things.  Curry and cricket.  Quite simply my idea of heaven.  Travelling through just one province, Rajastan, complete with cricket bat and a guide dead keen on food, I was ripe and ready to get involved.   The north western province is home to the Rajastan Royals, the Taj Mahal and menus as prolific as VVS Laxman in Australia.  What follows is a two part series, the first being the best food finds (and a couple of cricket related points) during three weeks in foody paradise.  The second is effectively a warning of the effects of being over indulgent in the land of spice.

Part 1: India on a plate

Masala Chai: Western style chai I have experienced once and found no need to try again.  Indian style I still crave morning, noon and night.  Specifically requesting a Masala Chai adds the flavours of green cardamom and ginger to an already heavenly concoction of spices, tea leaves, sugar and milk.  In northern India coffee is found sparingly, and according to the locals only drunk by those who pursue western ideals.  In my books there is no contest.  I’ll hang with Biggy on the east side.  Give me masala chai 24/7.

Masala Omelette:  Pretty much anything with Masala in it is awesome.  Masala simply translates to mean a combination of flavours.  The masala omelette is your basic omelette pimped up with red onion, capsicum, tomato and chilli. Each restaurant has their own spin on it but combined with a masala chai there is no better way to start the day.  Fact.

Television:  I know this should be the last thing you should be doing whilst on holiday but when you come home from a long day sight-seeing, full to the brim, how about having five specialist cricket channels to churn through?!  There were four series going on around the world and I could watch them all live or on replay.  It was actually incredible.  So when Pom was tucked up in bed I was up until 3am rejoicing in an Australian collapse or reliving Monty’s final resistance.  Grrrr.

Mutter Paneer: Pom’s number one curry.  The two main ingredients were cottage cheese (but not as we know it – more of a tofu-like texture) and green peas.  Combined with a spicy tomato-like dal this was a hit with both Pom and our local guide who gave up his order to get stuck in to hers.  Once our guide realised that we craved Indian spice not pussy western spice, his translation to the chefs meant that they would actually turn up the heat.  This dish was delicious when ordered Indian spicy!

Mirchi Wada: Introducing the Jodphur stuffed chilli.  First boiled then slit open and stuffed with potato, dried mango powder, salt and turmeric then rolled in chick pea batter and deep fried.  Even just writing that recipe makes me swoon for it.  Surprisingly it doesn’t blow your socks off either as much of the heat is minimised during the boiling stage.  It is served with your choice of two sauces, coriander, chilli and yoghurt and a sweet tamarin sauce which was near on perfection.

Cricket chat:  Everyone in India knows cricket.  As soon as they find out I’m a kiwi, “Ahhh Brendon McCullum, ahhhh Ross Taylor”.  One hawker even told me he had Richard Hadlee round for dinner in 1988.  Then he tried to sell me three decorative dolls by placing them in my hands and walking away.  As I left he chased me down and asked for 500 rupee donation to help fund this year’s dinner for Shane Watson.  My response?  “He’s Australian mate, get lost”. 

Lal Maas:  My number one curry of the trip.  A traditional Rajastani recipe, this was a mutton curry which seemed to be either goat or lamb depending on the availability.  I wouldn’t give two hoots if it was horse, it still would have been lush!  Translating literally as red or fiery, this relatively dry curry packed a punch with the deep red colour coming from the red chillies.  It had a real depth of flavour stemming from the garlic and cloves and even left the bones in so they could be licked clean at the end of the meal.  Well played.

BEANIE

This spicy taste bud buster is not for the faint hearted – originating from the harsh deserts of Rajasthan, this dish packs in a suuuuper spicy punch

Ingredients:

• 1kg mutton cut into 1 inch cubes
• Red chillies – 15 nos
• Garlic – 6 pods
• Garlic – 8 pods thinly sliced
• Onion – 3 medium thinly sliced
• 4 green cardamom
• 2 bay leaves
• 1 inch cinnamon twig
• 4 pepper corns
• Red chilli powder coarsely ground – 1 tblspn
• Yoghurt – 1 cup
• Salt

Step 1: Marinating the mutton:

• Grind 9 red chillies with about 6 garlic pods into a coarse paste
• Mix the chilli – garlic paste with the mutton pieces along with a cup of yoghurt, 2 tblspn of coriander seed powder & salt
• Let it marinate for 2 hours

Step 2: Preparing the garnish

• Heat oil in a deep bottomed pan and add 1 thinly sliced onion
• Fry on high heat till the onions are caramelized
• Strain the onion from the oil and transfer on a paper towel to remove extra oil

Step 3: Cooking the laal maas

• In a pressure cooker heat some oil (you could use the oil left over from frying the onion as well)
• Add 4 green cardamom, 2 bay leaf, 1 inch cinnamon twig, 4 pepper corns, & let the spices crackle
• Add 6 whole red chillies (cut into 2 pieces)  & 8 nos of thinly sliced garlic pods and roast them till they release their aroma
• Add the chopped onions & sauté till they lose color
• Add the marinated mutton, salt to taste and dry roast (bhuna)
• Add 1tblspon red chilli powder and a small cup water
• Pressure cook for 5 whistle / till meat is done
• Garnish with caramelised onion

Serve hot with chapati or rice 

So, if you are craving some authentic Rajasthani cuisine this weekend, then head to Hornby’s Pavillion at the ITC Grand Central, Parel. At Rs. 1,800 plus taxes, it’s all you can eat royal food!

Chef Kailash

Master Chef Kailash Maharaj is presenting the special repertoire of Rajastani cuisine till 16^th September for dinner only. He built his culinary expertise over the years by focusing on mastering this royal cuisine to the tee. No wonder I was excited to try out what he has to offer.

First try the Daal Baati Churma. It is so delicious! The crumbles soaked in hot daal, topped with little bit of jaggery and plenty of ghee… Fantastic! Nice way to whet your appetite.

Daal Baati Churma being prepared

Then try the bajre ki roti. This roti is one of my favourites. It’s not a great roti if it’s not drenched in ghee. I’m serious! Ghee is serious business.

Don’t be surprised if you find a big bowl of striking red curry. It’s called Laal Maas. Traditionally, it is prepared post hunting. The gravy is supposed to be EXTREMELY SPICY! Keep a bowl of curd if you find it difficult to handle it. But, don’t miss it. It’s super delicious and you will ask for more.

Laal Maas

Another interesting dish is the Anjeer aur Paneer ki Sabzi. The dried figs are soaked in warm water to hydrate it and then used in the gravy. When you bite into the figs in the gravy, they jus pop open in your mouth. Very interesting!

Here are some of the other things I tried…

Stuffed Chillies

Paneer Soyta

Are you salivating yet? So, head to Honby’s Pavillion and have dinner tomorrow night. It’s your last chance. Are you ready to be wowed?

View all the pictures here.

The secret of the unique and delicious flavor of Rajasthani food can be discovered in acooking that has been influenced by both the traditional warrior lifestyles of its inhabitants and the availability of ingredients in this mostly arid region. The Rajasthani cuisine though predominantly vegetarian, is also known for its unique and rich non-vegetarian dishes, dishes that have been nurtured and perfected in the royal kitchens over generations.

Rajasthan offers one a deluge of   tempting variety of vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes that are absolutely unique to this region. So for all the lovers of novel food Rajaasthan is the place to be.

Dal-Bati-Churma:

A popular dish synonymous with the cuisine of Rajasthan, this comprises of Dal (a dish of mixed lentils), Bati (wheat dumplings, baked and fried) and Churma (a dessert made of coarsely ground cereal). This delicacy is prized here for its long shelf life and high nutritional content, as well as the minimal quantity of water required for its preparation.

Besides this a typical vegetarian Rajasthani thali/diet would include items such as Bail Gatte, Panchkoota ki Sabzi, Ker-saangri ki sabzi, rabori ki sabzi, khati chach, kadhi and bajre ki roti to name a few items.

Mirchi-bada

The non-vegetarian delicacies include special recipes like Mohan maans (meat cooked in milk), Laal maans (meat in red chillies curry), Safed maans (meat cooked in curd), Saanth ro achaar (pickled wild boar meat), Khad khargosh (wild hare cooked and roasted underground) and Dhungar Maans (meat cooked in charcoal) to name a few.

Laal Maas

Sweets also form an important part of a Rajasthani diet, every meal is incomplete without one or sometimes more than one sweet dishes.  Mewa Kachori of Jodhpur, Dil jani of Udaipur, Malpuas of Pushkar, Ghevar and Mishri Mawa of Jaipur and Sohan Halwa of Ajmer will leave you with many sweet and delightful memories.

Ghewar

In Rajasthan, the food is predominantly cooked in pure ghee and hence the aroma and taste of Rajasthani food will linger in your mouth long after you left the dining area. To enjoy ethnic vegetarian Rajasthani dishes you can dine in at the authentic restaurants at all the hotels of Alsisar Group. Whether it is Alsisar Haveli in Jaipur,  Alsisar Mahal in Shekhawati or Nahargarh in Ranthambore, you will find all the finger licking Rajasthani delights served in same regal fashion and scrumptious flavor.

“A well-fed man is a happy man; a man who for­gives and for­gets trans­gres­sions, a man who extends the ben­e­fit of doubt, and for whom no insult pen­e­trates as deeply as the plea­sure of his gourmandize. We find seren­ity of mind and body, when appetizing food is served in pleas­ant sur­round­ings and eaten with care and atten­tion. It facil­i­tates relax­ation, con­tent­ment, gen­eros­ity, and felicity.” Reserve your table for imperial Rajasthani Delights ….

Alsisar Haveli Jaipur:

Sansar Chandra Road, Jaipur 302 001 (INDIA)

Tele:  +91-141-236 8290, 236 4685, 510 7157  Fax: +91-141-2364652
email: alsisar@sify.com, alsisar@alsisar.com

A very good Vegetarian Kachori place with an unexpected meaty marvel – Laal Maas

Kachori Jodhpuree

Meal for 2: Rs. 100 onwards vegetarian & Rs. 300 onwards for Nonvegetarian

A standee of the shop kept near the entrance of the food court

Description:

The Gentleman at the counter sports the traditional Royal Rajasthani Moustache & exudes a lot of warmth & hospitality when he talks to u.

Four kachoris that they sell r Pyaz (Onion), Garlic kachori, Daal Kachori & sweet Mawa kachori.
If u order the Laal maas, the Gentleman asked us u ‘spicy, less spicy or not spicy’. We said ‘the original recipe, whatever it is’. He said ‘spicy’.

The complete platter - roti, meat curry, fabulous chutney

The laal maas was accompanied by authentic Bajra ke Roti. The curry looked pretty good & it totally camouflaged the extreme ‘fiery’ feel that u get the moment it lands in ur mouth. Let me tell u that this was the second most ‘hot & fiery’ food that I have had in an eatery. The curry was spicy, hot, fiery, outstanding & had loads of ghee in it – the meats were superb & just melt in the mouth. The combo of laal maas & Bajra ke roti was as authentic & good as it cud get & was thoroughly enjoyable inspite of the fact that my forehead was sweating in the December Delhi cold.

the not so fiery looking but actually fiery laal maas at Kachori Jodhpuree

A good option (in case u r frightened after reading the above) is to go for the less spicy or the not spicy option. U can still enjoy this Rajasthan delicacy at its authentic best in a food court.

excellent Lehsun ki Chutney

YUMMRAJ is yet to eat at Daily Curry.

If you / your better half is in a mood to just relax and stay away from the kitchen, Daily Curry is the answer to all your prayers. Daily Curry takes the effort to bring regional culinary recipes to your door step……….

…………….Be it Mutton Vindaloo / Nadan Kozhi Curry / Chicken Biryani or the very spicy Laal Maas, nothing would ever disappoint your taste buds. The biryani boasts of rich Awadhi / Hyderabadi flavours, the lal maas can make steam come out of your ears, the Nadan Kozhi curry can leave you speechless because of its smooth gravy, Mutton Vindaloo can make you want to kiss the chef’s hand for creating the dish.

Even if you are a vegetarian, Daily Curry has paneer gravies and daals to satiate your palate. Being a huge Rajma (kidney beans) fan myself, I have thoroughly enjoyed the Rajma preparation by Daily Curry.

Order now and enjoy yourself to the last morsel.