I met Felix Bendish for the first time at Lakme fashion week winter/festive 2012 in Mumbai. It was quite a thrilling experience watching his show, visiting his stall and going through his quirky accessories with great appreciation. When I interacted with him I learnt that he is truly an encouraging, humble and highly talented designer. Designer Felix Bendish is the creative director of the brand namedî Felix Bendishî.Apart from designing clothes and accessories, he is also a well-known Bollywood stylist, costume designer, entrepreneur and fashion teacher.

Designer Felix Bendish.

ABOUT BRAND: The design house creates and develops fashion embroidery ideas for haute couture clothing and designers in Europe and USA.Launched in 2001, has its own in-house design studio in Mumbai,India.The brand dreams of creating beautiful clothing and styling for personal clientele,Bollywood movies, films and television, fashion shows, awards function and fashion consultation. The brand offers from bridal gowns to indo-western fusion wear along with accessories like jewellery, clutches, headgers etc.Every piece is ensured with quality craftsmanship, finish and flawless workmanship in couture embroideries. The designer label has showcased at various fashion shows and weeks like Wills India fashion week in Delhi, Lakme India fashion week in Mumbai, India resort fashion week in Goa,Hong-kong fashion week, London fashion week and many other shows. The designer applies his various Indian embroidery skills in different Fashion products thus playing a major role in uplifting and promoting Indian embroidery and textiles globally.

Abhijit: Tell me a little about yourself, your educational background and design background.

Felix: After my commerce graduation, I got myself enrolled in fashion designing .Since school days I was always interested in designing art and clothes. Anything related to creativity fascinated me. This encouraged me to complete 3 years diploma from L.S.Raheja fashion technology at worli .Mumbai.

Abhijit: You are an embroidery expert! Would like to know why India is known for its various embroideries? What is the strength of Indian embroideries internationally?

Felix: We, Indian designers really need to thank from the bottom of our heart, to our Indian Craftsmen and karigars. It could be in sectors of clothing, stitching, embroideries, weaves, textiles, interiors, art, dyeing and the likes. These karigars come from small towns and villages with immense talent and creativity. We as designers can only design, but these people work with passion and dedication .They patiently†give life and colour to our design work. Especially in Luxury products, our karigars do know how to use their skills with perfection. We are lucky to have diversity in various forms of embroideries, weaving, printing, dyeing etc techniques spread over different regions of our nation. Likewise we have enormous Skilled craftsmen who provide huge variety of textiles for international market to choose. For generations Indian craftsmen are known for their†skills. The entire world looks at us in couture embroideries and†surface ornamentation. My forte in design lies is embroideries .We create beautiful hand embroideries with different techniques in conventional as well as contemporary embroideries. With the help of my workers, we add new dimension in textures and innovative designs that is appealing to my international buyers.

Abhijit: Apart from designing clothes, you are talented as an accessory designer, Bollywood stylist /costume designer, teaching fashion at fashion schools etc .How do you manage all of these. I want to know whatís the common thread that runs through all these different roles.

Felix:  laughs) my main inspiration behind all this lies in good creative fashion. Fashion could be in form of clothing, accessory, teaching or even cultures. My aim is to create innovative fashion which lies in my capacity .I enjoy it.

Abhijit: What are some of your favourite materials, embroideries, processes to work with? Which are the various Techniques of surface embellishments that you incorporate in your products?

Felix: I use different mediums, like glass beads, crystals, even glass cuttings; fabrics too create my surface ornamentations. I do work with a lot of international designers, fashion couture houses and stores for the past 10 years now. I have always loved embroideries, specially working on the lines of houses like Lesage and finesse (couture embroideries houses) Felixís collection at Lakme fashion week winter/festive 2012 held in August in Mumbai was well appreciated By everyone. The collection entitled ìFLOWî was a tribute to an epic artist Henri Matisse.î Flow in love, flow in spirit, flow in canvas, flow yourself in fashionî were the inspirational lines! Inspired by the fluidity of detailed palette and lines played in his composition, -Felix Bendish celebrates a new era of fashion infused with luxurious dosage of graceful art. The collection featured statement neck-pieces, elaborate brooches along with cocktail headbands and sleek evening clutches all of it minutely detailed and crafted in finest hand embroidery textures.Swarovski elements sparkled through the form of underline detailing. Series of perfect masterpieces harmoniously punctuated every look in the festive season!

Abhijit: When starting new collection, do you follow trends? Where do you generally find your inspirations from?

Felix: A good designer always has inspirations. Once you achieve this, then your design process and techniques falls in its place. Trends and forecast helps your design sensibility to go in a particular direction .Inspiration could be in any form. People, culture, social events, nature, architecture or even history. Forecasted trends also give focus to concentrate on creating fashion that the masses are looking Forward to accept at particular season.

Abhijit: As an acclaimed Bollywood costume designer and stylist, how is styling different from designing?

Felix: Costume design- usually a script is given to you. All we need to do is to stick to the character of the movie and design accordingly. One must understand that the costumes should not overshadow the mood of the character of the movie. Research work plays a vital role before designing costumes. Styling- itís a mix of different ensembles of clothes and accessory .Should be creative and trendy for the consumer to enjoy and wear it. Styling is mostly seen in magazines and photo shoots to create an image.

Abhijit: Would like to know about your bridal wear collections and film styling highlights?

Felix: Bridal wear is fun and very time consuming. Right from trendy designing stage to embroidery and stitching, everything needs to be taken care in a systematic way. Itís the most important day for the bridal couple, so attention has to be given to every detailing. Comfort should be kept in mind too.

Abhijit: What magic does jewellery add to an outfit? What do you love most about designing and creating your own accessories?

Felix: My accessories are very quirky! I believe that sometimes a simple accessory can change the mood of the look. If you are wearing a simple white silhouette, then a colored bib or a neckpiece is all needed to do the trick .Small product with a big fashion impact! At times jewellery is added to complete the look.

Abhijit: How does designing jewellery differ from designing clothes? Which are the different varieties of Necklaces you create?

Felix: Jewellery differs in terms of size and volume as compared to clothing. Designing jewellery can be in real diamonds and gold, or imitation or costume. Cost varies in these aspects. My accessories are in beautiful hand embroidery concepts. Fashionable, easy to wear and trendy!
Felix Bendish jewellery was a big hit at Hong Kong fashion week.

Abhijit: Where do you retail your creations? What are the price points?

Felix: In India I retail at ñ Mumbai- Bombay electric which is a multi designer store. Delhi- Twist fashion store. I export to countries like Japan, America (Texas), London, Middle east and Italy. Abhijit: Several celebrities have worn your creations. Who would be your dream person to see wearing your creations? Felix: I would love- Frieda pinto to don my accessory!

Abhijit: How would you define the style/sensibility your products exemplify?

Felix: Comfort should play the key. One should wear clothes according to their body type and cuts/style lines that help accentuate the best features! Otherwise things could look wrong. Try to avoid too many elements in design.

Abhijit: Describe the general process you go through to design and realize a piece of clothing/product.

Felix: Love working on thematic collections. Once I get the idea right, I start designing in my own variation and style.

Abhijit: Your recent showing at London fashion week was the talk of the town. Would you like to share the experience with us?

Felix: I recently showcased at London fashion week along with British designers. I had done their entire embroideries and accessories. London mainly focuses on good design and street fashion. It was a great experience.
British designer Zandra Rhodes flaunting Felix Bendish lizard jewellery!
Quirky jewellery!

Abhijit: Thatís incredible!!!We are truly proud!

Felix: (Smiles) thanks.

Abhijit: What do you think is the most significant progress in contemporary/modern textiles and embroidery techniques within the last 5 to 10 years in India? How has Indian embroidery techniques evolved over the years?

Felix: The world is looking at India for inspiration, textiles and embroideries. Currently India is the topic. India has the capacity to produce mass production, couture embroideries and high end textiles. We do have skilled craftsmen in this country.
His collection at India Resort Fashion Week in Goa.

Abhijit: As an embroidery/surface embellishment expert, how are Indian embroidered products received internationally with buyers?

Felix: Pricing plays important, this is the main reason. Traditional products are original with beautiful rich array of bright colours.Traditional Indian colours, prints, patterns are highly appreciated by buyers worldwide.
At India Resort Fashion Week in Goa.

Abhijit: Having been teaching at various fashion schools over the years as guest faculty, What piece of advice would you like to give to graduating designers?

Felix: Focus on PRODUCT. People want value for moneyî.

Abhijit: When in studio/workshop, designers work closely with creative artwork artists, talented embroiderers, skilled craftsmen and weavers. Whatís the rapport you share with them?

Felix: You have to blend with their ideas (karigars) and create beautiful products. Guidance has to be given to them all the time.

Abhijit: Would you like to share with us your future endeavours and plans?

Felix: My next venture is opening my fashion school- B.I.F. The school is in my factory .I believe practical knowledge is so important .Student will get the opportunity to interact and create fashion along with the karigars.

It opened our minds interviewing Felix Bendish to the world of embroidery .It made us more aware about how hand done Indian embroideries can be applied on various accessory products and give them a modern, contemporary twist .His unconventional jewellery products inspired from horns, antlers, lizards, spikes, alligators, skulls take shapes in form of unisex brooches, neckpieces ,clutches etc which are big hit among his admirers . The demand for hand -done Indian embroidery products has increased over the years as the new generation Of Indian craftsmen, weavers, embroiderers are getting educated and are exploring various other career options. This is giving way to decrease in then umber of skilled craftsmen. Naturally the demand for craftsmen And embroiderers has increased which is also giving more value, demand and profitable prices to hand Embroidered products. Hope the world of Felix Bendish gets richer and vibrant filled with unique and beautiful beads, sequins, crystals, Yarns, glass beads, etc taking innovative forms.

We at Eurasia Fashion Related Services wish him the Best wishes!!!

Rajat K Tangri speaks about Comfort, sensual elegance, urban style and his dreams in a telephonic. Rajat Tangri is an Indian Fashion Designer & a Celebrity Stylist. He specializes in high-end western couture and prat for men and women.

About label: Named after the designer, this label encompasses a vivid fashion spectrum from inimitable Prêt Pieces in dresses, shirts, trousers, dresses and jumpsuits to haute couture gowns and suits. The label’s Commitment to luxury, through carefully selected fabrics, hand finished detailing and contemporary Signature silhouettes focus on making clients look good and feel gorgeous. Over the years Rajat has built a loyal following for his high fashion cocktail wear with unique hand Finished detailing and contemporary silhouettes.Rajat’s creation have found a loyal following in the Celebrity world with divas such as Kangna Ranaut,Bipasha Basu,Chitrangda Singh,Minnisha Lamba, Sonam Kapoor, Sushmita Sen and stars like Randeep Hooda, Vidyut Jamval, Sonu Sood and several others Opting to wear this label.Rajat has also been actively been courted by leading film producers to style the Look of characters in their films.Rajat landed in Australia in 1998 to make his dream a reality by undertaking a degree in Bachelor of Design (fashion) and later an advanced Diploma (textiles clothing and Production) from the prestigious Royal Melbourne Institute of Technology. He trained under prestigious Australian fashion industry name. Like Karen Webster-Program Director (RMIT-Fashion) and ex festival Director, L’Oreal Melbourne Fashion Festival. He also won a “Young Designer Fashion Award’ in the “Eveningwear” category in 2003 by sheepvention, an annual event held in Hamilton,Victoria.On completion of his formal education,Rajat gained local industry experience before landing in Mumbai in 2004. Later in 2005, Rajat’s dream turned into reality when he launched his own label ‘Rajat k Tangri’ creating Exclusive designs for both Men and women.Rajat’s designs beautifully project an artistic inspiration with a fusion of Indian design philosophy and technique with the west’s concept of product and design.Rajat’s Design depicts a beautiful and elegant fusion of East and west, has a high exclusivity factor which adds to their attraction .Internationally inspired and are eye catching. While the fabrics are carefully chosen to represent soft, fluid experience with well woven and textured cloth, structures remain “easy going” and  are seen in versatile forms.

Lakme fashion week 2012 Autumn/winter.

Rajat’s recent autumn /winter collectionshowingat Lakme fashion week was well appreciated and liked by masses. His collection named “La Cosa Nostra”where strength and structure contrast elegantly with fragility, with versatile pieces from ethereally feminine gowns to sharply tailored daywear that build fantasy and rebellion on the runway reminiscent of the compelling glamour, romanticism, danger and mystery that surrounds legends of underworld dons and their divas.

At Lakme fashion week held in First week of August in Hotel Grand Hyatt Mumbai, India.

Abhijit:  How did it all start your journey into fashion?

Rajat:    At an early age, I drew inspiration from my father (who drew paintings) and realized, my talent in expression of art lay in “fashion”. When I started showing keen interest in styling my siblings and spending time with fabrics, slowly a dream to become a fashion designer was born.

Abhijit: Which designer have always influenced and inspired you?

Rajat:    My inspiration comes from early 1920’s and evolves.Vionnet, Lanvin to contemporary designers namely Alexander McQueen and many others. Revolutionary designers have always influenced me.

Abhijit: We all know you do styling and costume designing for Bollywood movies. How is styling     different from designing?

Rajat:    Yes! I have been doing styling and costume designing over the years and it has helped me evolve as a designer and vice –versa. When I am styling, I feel more confident because of my technical understanding of garments in terms of construction, proportion, practicality, fit and so on.

I enjoy doing both and I feel they definitely go hand in hand with each other.

Abhijit: Do you try to send out a message or theme in your clothes? I mean how does a collection start?

Rajat:    I begin with trend research! Colour trends play a major role. After freezing on trends and colors, I come up with a theme in my collections. I get influenced by only color palette and certain silhouettes and apply with my own understanding.

Abhijit: Tell me about your favorite fabrics and colours? How do you choose your fabrics?

Rajat:    I like experimenting with various kinds of fabrics .From flowy fabrics to structured, stiffer fabrics. It all depends on the theme and my choice varies accordingly.

When it comes to color Black tops my list!

I choose well-woven and textured luxury fabrics in various colors with luxury craftsmanship and exquisite fine finishing. Keeping in mind the label’s principles of comfort, sensual elegance and urban style for a soft and fluid experience.

Abhijit: What is your favourite season for fashion?

Rajat:   (Laughs!)Both!!!Every season offers its own excitement and challenge. But I feel I love Autumn/winter more. At the same time spring summer has feminine, delicate fashion to offer.

Abhijit: How many different sizes you offer?

Rajat:    I generally follow uk8, uk10, uk12, etc but I follow different sizes depending on client and buyer requirements .It varies from clients to clients.

Abhijit: What is your target age group?

Rajat:    Well, in Australian market fashion crazy young girls in the age group of 17 to 19 years are my target age group. But as a whole say in the bracket of 17 to 50 years.

Abhijit: How would you define your city’s fashion i.e. Mumbai?

Rajat:    Mumbai fashion is more comfortable and casual chic. The fashion is also influenced by Bollywood and accepted by masses. It has got variety to offer. While Delhi is more edgy avant garde and also high in designer fashion. Both the cities have uniqueness to offer.

Abhijit: What is the most difficult aspect of running your own label?

Rajat:    The risks that are involved in it. Clothes need to have practical element and should be commercially successful at the same time. Proper planning and focus are must-haves. Offering clothes with a balance of innovativeness and practical element is smartness.

Abhijit: Where do you retail your clothes?

Rajat:    Atosa, Fuel, Dressing Room, Atosa etc in India. Internationally Noir desire, Corset in Riyadh, Cologne, Poland, soon opening an online store of mine too!!!

Abhijit: Which are your favourite techniques of surface ornamentation?

Rajat:    I am more of embellishment and embroidery person. I work with various different kinds and techniques of embroidery.

Abhijit: Where do you get your inspirations from?

Rajat:    Galaxy, shoots, stars or anything around me that clicks my attention.

Abhijit: Who is your muse?

Rajat:    Kangana Ranaut. (Popular Bollywood actress)She carries-off her clothes gracefully and gives character to the clothes she wears.

Abhijit: Do you follow any style when it comes to your creations?

Rajat:    Though I have a signature style of my own, the look varies from season to season keeping in mind the theme and season. But I can be versatile at the same time depending on client requirements.

Abhijit: What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?

Rajat:    They just have to focus, dream and work hard. Setting benchmarks for themselves is the key.

Abhijit: What trends do you see big in 2013?

Rajat:    Colors like Black and whites, Ochres, Mint, Ikat weaves. Tribal .geometrical and floral prints. Relaxed and refined silhouettes. Very chic and easy-going!

Abhijit: Would you like to share some of your future plans and endeavours?

Rajat:    I am aiming at international fashion weeks. Also I the process of launching my own shoe line.

Tie-ups with high-end street fashion labels in U.S.Plans of venturing into interiors, products, accessories and also home furnishings.

It was an amazing experience interviewing the designer.

Rajat has established his own production studio in Mumbai, India and today has a specialized team of >25 staff who assist him in his day-to-day work even when he is busy traveling on international design projects, participating in global fashion events or sourcing exquisite fabrics from around the world.

Today fashion design label ‘RAJAT K TANGRI’ has not only carved a niche in the global fashion industry but a popular choice among both Hollywood & Bollywood film fraternities & Celebrities; and not to forget.. a darling of all the fashion magazines like VOGUE, ELLE, VERVE. Just name them!

We at “Eurasia Fashion Related Services “wish him a grand success in all his future endeavours.

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Watching Shruti Sancheti’s collection at Lakme fashion week Fall/winter 2012 that happened at hotel Grand Hyatt, Mumbai in the first week of august 2012 was really a thrilling experience. I had the opportunity to visit her stall, understand and admire her collection garments which seemed to be highly commercial and wearable.

It was truly enlightening talking to her and knowing her fashion story.Nagpur based fashion designer Shruti Sancheti shares with us her fashion journey and design ideology. She retails in many stores in India and abroad

With her label name “Pinnacle by Shruti Sancheti”.

Enjoy reading.

Abhijit: Tell us little about yourself, where are you from and your educational background?

Shruti: I am Shruti Sancheti, born and bought up in the cultural hub i.e. Kolkata.I was an avid sportswoman and a popular student (captain and prefect) of Modern High School. Ever since childhood I would draw croqui’s and was curious about fashion design, which then a very unrecognized vocation but was also extremely inclined towards history, and I pursued History Honours from Loreto college Kolkata.However after this I got married to Anand Sancheti,from Nagpur,from a prominent industrial and political family. Soon after I became a mother, however With the support of my in-laws and husband who felt career without qualifications does not make sense, I enrolled in JD institute of fashion technology for an advanced diploma in fashion design, however after this my son was born, then I pursued a diploma in textile design from Inifd and also a diploma in jewellery design from JD institute. Design elements established, my husband said before taking a leap in working world, it was essential to understand commercial aspects and I did a post graduate diploma in business management from Bhartiya Vidya Bhavans and later did my MBA in marketing from Ignou.I was extremely apprehensive of launching a label so I decided to teach fashion design,jewellery design and design management at Inifd Nagpur and was the Hod for 3 years, then I was approached by LAD college Nagpur to teach and be a module setter for Master’s of Fashion design and I have been ever since teaching there. Besides this I have taken classes for Flying Cats, Finesse (a finishing school) in dec 2009 I launched my label Pinnacle-Shruti Sancheti.

Abhijit: well, what does fashion mean to you?

Shruti: Fashion to me means a form of expression, it is a thought process and to be honest it is an extension of one’s personality. I personally feel fashion is a tangible form of one’s persona.

Abhijit: How would you define your style?

Shruti: My style is deeply rooted in the city I was bought up in, as they say you can take a person out of kolkata but you cannot take Kolkata out of the person.

Kolkata being a cultural hub, land of bhadralok’s,with its vast history and affinity towards Indian crafts and traditions has defined my sense of style, furthermore being a history student, I am aware of various periods and societies, so my sense of style is reflective of my upbringing and education and as an Indian I take great pride in the unsurpassed legacy of Indian weaves, crafts and surface ornamentation, and feel instead of blindly aping the west, we should tap the unique and exquisite heritage of our country. From the very first collection of mine which was called legacy, which was an amalgamation of various weaves and printing techniques of India, to Zero mile legacy (vidharbha weaves), which I debuted in Lakme fashion week, Sufianna (Kaleen embroidery and Mughal block prints) and Thar (collection based on rajashthan, gujurat and Pakistan), I have worked with Indian theme and my styling is contemporary but the soul of my garments is Indian.

Abhijit: How long does it usually take you to design a collection?

Shruti: There is no fixed time span associated with a collection, it is generally the idea or the theme which has to click, but after that it is a quick and a continuous process and till the last day changes and additions are made.

Abhijit: Who is your muse? Who is one of your favorite Indian models to work with?

Shruti: My muse is the Indian woman who multitasks, who is the focal element of society, takes pride in her legacy and is rooted to traditions .My showstopper ShainaNC a woman of substance is a designer, politician, social activist and a mother of two children and she balances all her roles beautifully, has a mind of her own, is well versed, intelligent and is impeccably dressed in the sari. Even my favorite models, Shonal rawat and Anchal Kumar are just not pretty faces; they have strong personalities and an intelligent mind, making them a pleasure to work with.

Abhijit: That was a great answer. Describe the general process you go through to design and realize a piece of clothing?

Shruti: As I said earlier, the inspiration or the theme has to click, once that is achieved it takes me very little time to realize a collection and convert an idea to reality.

Abhijit: What are some of your accomplishments as a designer?

Shruti: Well I am taking baby steps, and I cannot really say I have achieved much, however my stores receiving consistent sales through my collection and appreciation from people are some accomplishments which mean a lot to me

Abhijit: What are your sources of inspiration?

Shruti: I am a designer who is influenced by history, geography, societies and time periods, all which are tangible and it is difficult for me to get inspired by abstract or intangible ideas.

Abhijit: Where can readers buy your clothes from? Where do you retail them?

Shruti: Ever since I launched my label, I have been stocked in the best stores all over the country and internationally. I am working with stores like Aza, Fuel, Evoluzione, Atosa, Melange, mogra, Hue, Vyoym, rudraksha, Aura, Prana, Sasya, Nautanky, collage, folio, Aranya, 29hkv, Dressing room etc .We are also being stocked very soon at Isarya -a store in International airport in Delhi and internationally we hare with Phulkari-London,anjali Arjun kappor-dubai etc

Abhijit: What matters to you most as a fashion designer?

Shruti: There are many things which matter to me, first and foremost are appreciation of my clothes however equally important is commercial success and also very important is constant growth of the brand.

Abhijit:  What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?

Shruti: I would advice new designers ready to take a plunge is to explore your potential, understand your USP and try too work with someone having similar sensibilities before taking a plunge in this fiercely competitive world of fashion. I also stress on understanding consumer buying behaviour, commerce, practical aspects and just not get carried away by illusion and glamour.

Abhijit: Tell us briefly about your recent collection at lakme fashion week? Your inspiration and experience. Response from industry and buyer response too

Shruti: My collection Thar showcased on Indian textile day focused on vibrant and colorful culture of Rajashthan, gujarat and Pakistan, it was inspired by the common man who strives in the harsh climatic conditions of the desert region yet is so colorful, vivacious, their music, dance and costumes reflecting the passion.

The exquisite crafts and tribal embroidery like stitched shibori, sindhi tanka, negative appliqués, vibrant colors ,nomadic and asymmetric silhouettes shaped the collection .I got a fabulous response and commercially it is a sellout

Abhijit: What are your favorite colors and fabrics to work with and why?

Shruti: my favourite colors depend on the season, currently in the festive season, they are the warm festive colors like vermillion,saffron,alphanso yellow, emerald green etc however in harsh summers white ,off white and pastels are my favourite’s.I like pure fabric  and I am extremely partial to weaves like patola,ikat,jamdani,benarasi,paithani etc and printing techniques like sanganeri,bhagru along with crafts like shibori,bandhini leheriya,mothda etc.These fabrics have a soul and add an unique facet to the personality.

Abhijit: Would you like to participate in international fashion weeks?

Shruti: I have taken part in Hong Kong fashion week in emerging category this year and I am open to showcasing abroad however the platform has to be prestigious and commercially it should make sense, right now I am also tied with my domestic orders  and focusing on international market as well . However u never know!!

Abhijit: How do you manage to balance wear ability and market with your personal artistic mix?

Shruti: I am MBA and expert in consumer buying behaviour .The 4 P”s of marketing i.e. product, price, place, promotion are equally important for me as the four C”s of fashion i.e. colour, cut, construction and cost, so till a garment does not make commercial sense for me it is a futile exercise.

Focus on wearable timeless garments and account for real women having figure flaws and add my artistic interpretation to it gives me high. I believe there should be very little difference from ramp to rack

Abhijit: You also teach fashion in fashion institution. How does u enjoy it? 

Shruti: Teaching is my first love, once a teacher, always a teacher. It is very therapeutic and gives me fresh perspective to interact with young students, guide them and shape up their careers. It is also a learning process and teacher’s day gives me the same high as fashion week

Abhijit: Do you source fabrics get them developed or texturize them? How does it work like?

Shruti: It depends on the collection, I have worked directly with the weavers and also procured commercially but the interpretation is uniquely mine and right now there is something really big in the offering for me, where fabric development is concerned but it is too premature to share it.

Whatever the base fabric might be, by means of printing, surface ornamentation and detailing we impart our brand’s design philosophy to it

Abhijit: Who is the target market for your clothes?

Shruti: My target market is India and global citizens who are admirers of unsurpassed legacy of Indian textiles and crafts and I cater to them. It is meant for people who want to flaunt their heritage.

Abhijit: What’s the best experience as a designer?

Shruti: As a designer, I have had my share of moments, but appreciation from stalwarts of the field and good sales report are something’s I cherish.

Abhijit: What’s your opinion about the recent boom in fashion weeks happening in many cities across the country?

Shruti: If there are many fashion weeks happening, I am sure there are takers. The market is growing at an alarming pace and there is a place for everyone, city specific fashion weeks are also good platforms for young and budding designers.

Abhijit: What different varieties of clothes do u offer (western/Indian/indowestern/mens /womens etc)?

I generally deal with Indian and Indo westerns fusion clothes but have done some western outfits in each collection few capsule collection of westerns as well, however I feel I do more justice to Indian garments. my USP is restrained, impeccably designed and immaculately finished Indian garments.

Abhijit: Tell me about your unique selling point?

Shruti: My USP is restrained, impeccably designed and immaculately finished Indian garments.

Abhijit: Do u have services of custom made to measure clothing?

Shruti: Unfortunately not, I don’t deal with customized clothing as of now. Though I would love to do bridals. Right now I am happy retailing through stores

Well I must admit that it was truly an enlightening conversation with the designer. Great to know

That her brand is taking baby steps and she wants to showcase an exquisite collection season after season.

Being appreciated by critics as well as clients and becoming a force to reckon with in domestic and

International market is her goal. Also diversifying the existing product offering and venturing into

Lifestyle, Accessory and product designing is the prime focus for her.

We the team at “Eurasia fashion related services “wish her all the best for all her future endeavours!!!

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Our Creative Director Georg Andreas Suhr meet the indian fashion designer Sidharta Aryan in Mumbai and speak about the Indian Fashion Day at Berlin Fashion Week 2013. Sidharta is willing to present his newest collection at Lavera Showfloor next year.

Information about the designer and his newest collection “Wanderlust”

Keeping in mind the modern global women, Sidharta Aryan’s Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012 collection called “Wanderlust” was a perfect prét offering. Bringing in vintage Indian touches for a luxurious feminine line, Sidharta showed a range of versatile creations that can progress from day to evening and then even festive wear. With prints as the focal point, the inspirations were from Indian art and architecture which added to the creative style of the garments.

The images ranged from paintings of Rajasthan, Mughal Jharoka, temple jewellery of the South, blue prints of the Chalukya dynasty, Victorian influences, and streets of Lucknow, which were juxtaposed cleverly on fluid fabrics for the garments.

Photo: Fashioncyrcle Blog India

Dividing the collection into separates and festive styles, Sidharta’s versions of the shirt dresses, jackets, pretty dresses for day wear and the lehengas, anarkalis and saris for bridal and festive clothing had a marked contemporary touch with four prints versions. With faux georgette, silk, crepe, jersey and lace, the designer ensured that the garments were all ‘wash and wear’ for the convenience of the jet setting Indian woman.

It was slinky women’s wear as drop waist dresses, cropped jackets, ghagras, skirts, and the scooped back dresses glided down the ramp. The solitary sari matched the theme with its colours and prints and the three lehenga sets had a marked western touch with body hugging panelled silhouettes which were teamed with peplum tops or lace jackets

With immaculate construction and intricate detailing, Sidharta Aryan ensured that the “Wanderlust” look will appeal to an international clientele.

Photo: Fashioncyrcle Blog India

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I recently came across Karishma Shahani’s spectacular graduate collection ‘Yatra’ and have been keenly following her work since. Chauraha meaning crossroads is her latest offering and I caught up with the uber talent to find out more about the inspiration behind her label and collections.

Chauraha design boards

1) Describe your label in one sentence
India with love to the world

2) What’s the story behind the label?

Started in 2011, the label was born after graduating from the London College of Fashion in 2010. The label focuses on design as a celebration and its ways to fit contrasts in harmony. We work through re-interpretation of materials and their functions depending on current needs, creating heirlooms to be passed through generations. With an aim to create vertically integrated systems we stand as a means of promotion of global crafts. Combining a fusion of two extremes, make our products experimental and unconventional, while being hinged on modern functionality, reaching out to all from India with Love.

Chauraha silhouette design board

3) What’s the inspiration behind the a/w 12 collection? and describe your design process.

The core of the idea lies on the road trade and exchanges took place before the advent of technology. The idea of the mixing of cultures, people, ideologies and faiths aside from this business exchange forms the basic of our Chauraha or Crossroads. Integral to this idea were the strong visuals of people from differing culture amalgamating at the same place. The people who walked this road ranged from the richest to the most non-materialistic nomadic of human kind. The design process like our garments is organic and instinctive in nature. Toiling is done extensively alongside sampling for all the textures that fit the inspiration. Once we have enough information to work with we start putting these individual elements together, omitting some and enhancing others on the way.

Chauraha Colour/Mood board

Look Book

4) You’re known for having an ethical label, how important is it to you for it to be so and how do you do this?

It is very important to think about how and who your aesthetics affect. We maintain our ethical approach through local sourcing of fabrics, utilising hand-embroidery and applications to create our surfaces. With the use of local skills everything is produced inhouse with a no-waste whatsoever policy, where fabrics are re-used through different techniques i.e. lining with second-hand materials or end-of-line fabrics, ensuring every piece has a uniqueness and its own individuality. Through re-utilisation of already existing material / non-clothing materials we love to create self-run projects to explore their potential to wear and to hold. Through collaborations with social organisations we aim to increase our association with different craft regions. The idea is to make do with what we have, to give something new meaning to bring it up to our present context and requirements. This philosophy is not new to us and is highly ingrained with our Indian cultural context. The idea of heirlooms, of saving for our children, of inheriting all the beauty from your parents, of sharing not just values but our lives with our near and dear ones and of old is gold, it always will be.

Look Book

5) What have been your personal highlights for the brand so far?

With acknowledgements such as ‘Best Surface Textiles’, ‘Nina De York Illustration Award’, ‘Fashion Graduate of the year’, ‘Fashioning the Future- Unique Design Finalist’ and now being a part of Lakme Fashion Week 2012 are all highlights for the brand and for me personally. In other cases our work being acknowledged for its journey and its products are like a pat on your back which help you go on and not stop, it’s all those meaningful encouragements that do wonders.

Look Book

6) What are you future goals?

The goal in to make people more aware about how much power fashion has to affect lives of all those involved or those who come within its proximity. The ultimate aim is to create vertically integrated systems in which every part of each piece can be handcrafted with our support. Hence being able to grow our own cottons, dyes to weaving them to the finished product ready for the customer so we can steer our journey to a more aesthetically ethical future and confidently be able to say it is sustainable from India with love.

At Lakme Fashion Week

and lastly could you give me details of your stockists.

Bombay Electric, Mumbai
www.notjustalabel.com
www.pret-amoda.com
www.ofindianorigin.co.uk

Thanks Karishma!

Kushboo Agarwal and Prem Kumar Revealed their Exciting Collection at Usha Talent Box

Mumbai, Sunday, August 5, 2012: Khushboo Agarwal and Prem Kumar presented a fiery show with their new collection aptly christened ‘Dark Romance’ under their label Khem.

Blending in French Baroque influences along with the concept of ‘The Tree of Life’ this range blended in both careful constructions with softer touches for a collection that’s simply mesmerising. Feminine, soft fabrics such as georgettes, crepes as well as silk cottons helped link Indian traditional fabrics with a cosmopolitan touch.

The pieces made for interesting forms, which sported bead, mokaish and badla work which was an infusion that aimed to give traditional art a modern edge. The range displayed an array of dresses, jackets and gowns in a subdued colour palette comprising shades of grey, green, blue and black. Romantic with an edge, rich colour infusions were in blood red, bottle green, royal blue, espresso and plum.

A piece that stood out from the collection was a ravishing blue-green dual toned shimmering number, which was accentuated by a bolero jacket.

Complementing this range perfectly the Lakmé makeup experts kept the models’ looks fresh with long eyelashes for a youthful, mysterious appeal and upswept hair styles.

A dance in the dark, a beauty to behold this range by Khushboo Agarwal and Prem Kumar is sure appeal to the fastidious buyer’s inner desires.

Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty Added their Stylish Touches to Garments at Usha Talent Box

Huemn, as a brand by Pranav Mishra and Shyma Shetty has always strived to top itself at each fashion week.

The designers went back in time and took a page out of their previous collection only to come back with an electrifying new range titled ‘When the Lines Move’. Known for their strong structured silhouettes, this collection forayed into the experimental by displaying constructed designs, which managed to still appear fluid and flowing.

Using fabrics such as leather, felt and crepe, the designs made their way onto the runway in a muted colour palette comprising nudes, browns along with pale pastel shades of green and blue. With the concept being ‘structure caught in between flow’ the pieces were further built on by using sheer fabrics, adding a feminine touch to structured tops; while strategically placed cut outs as well as shoulder slits added a subtle funky edge.

Keeping the embellishments at a minimum with only soft embroidery work, the range took a unique twist, which was simply decadent.

To add to the feel of this collection, Lakmé salon experts worked with streaked lips and cat eye makeup, along with a stylish upswept look for the hair.

Gorgeous and well defined, the stunning collection by Pravnav Mishra and Shyma Shetty will leave the global women wanting more.

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Mumbai, Monday, August 06, 2012: DHL presented an exciting show with ‘Speed’ as its theme which is the brand’s distinct quality. The black acrylic ramp, the high-tech laser show and the opening with waves of Technicolor strobes set the mood for the first collection by designers Shivan & Narresh.

Shivan & Narresh Created a Collection Inspired by DHL’s Speed Theme at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012

With the legendary stallion, Equus as an inspiration, Shivan & Narresh created a luxurious collection to match the theme from DHL which was Speed. The beautiful collection reflected the shimmer of metallic sheen and the grace of the inspiration for creations that dazzled on the runway.

Their new fabrics which were inspired by the gloss of a horse’s skin were ideal for the swim and cruise line. The exciting handmade louvered jersey was moulded into stylish mailot, bikini, dress, gown, sari, tankini, trikini, jumpsuits and shirts as well as the duo’s newest addition after their bikini sari and Kaftan sari the “Kafsuit”.

Detailing was restricted to braiding which was an obvious reminder of the horse mane and appeared to highlight the bodice and necks of the garments. Tassels entered the collection in the crystallised form to recreate the tassels on royal horses. The very abstract horse print in black appeared discreetly for the mailots; while at other times there were geometric motifs to break the solid colour tones.

The colour story was muted with grey, brown, beige, ice grey, black and acid for the body moulding creations which were beautifully finished and constructed. The finale entry – a slinky gown with the long horse mane as the only embellishment in front, reminded the audience very firmly about the speed of DHL and the imagery of the stallion.

The 26 piece collection which was displayed briskly on the ramp by Shivan & Narresh for DHL, once again proved that when it comes to fashion for in and out of the water the pair is still the undisputed leader.

Swapnil Shinde Presented his Ultra Chic Collection Inspired by DHL’s Theme Speed at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012

Inspired by Bollywood’s horror films of the 50’s and early 60’s Swapnil Shinde presented an ultra-mod collection called “Frozen Fragility” to match the DHL theme ‘Speed’ at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012.

To the strains of eerie music and an equally eerie display of laser lights the show opened with three draped gowns in red, black and white with wired wing-like shapes to depict the flying pallav of the heroine in a Bollywood horror movie.

With silhouettes borrowed from the two eras, Swapnil had cinched waistlines, voluminous skirts, exaggerated sleeves and large prominent shoulder emphasis for the almost space age like creations but with a unique fragile delicate quality.

Colours ranged from black and ivory to various shades of slate and steel blue, blood red and sunflower yellow. Using clever manipulations of the fabrics like folding, pleating and mixing structured shapes with fluidity; Swapnil created a fashionable treat for the audience. The white draped sari gown with gold belt, the draped organza bodice with long shirt, the shirt cum dress, the ribbed silk kimono sleeve version, the sari gown in steel blue and the yellow draped mini with wired wings fitted into the inspiration. The exaggerated wired brocade blouse with pleated skirt and the final three white, black and yellow long gowns with upright wired effects not only denoted speed but the free flowing drapes of garments.

Blending his inspirations of Speed and Horror imaginatively, Swapnil Shinde’s “Frozen Fragility” presented by DHL was a fashion happening.

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His inspiration was the fragrant Valley of Flowers in Uttarakhand where the beautiful flowers sway in the sunshine. Prashant Chauhan’s collection at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012 was a tribute to the beauty of the region as he used it for prints, colours and detailing on his garments.

Embroidery, prints and appliqués recreated the beauty of the flora in varying multicolours. Opening the show with an intricately embellished dress with 3D flowers and metal butterflies on a pale blue base; Prashant showed beautiful asymmetric hem tunics with garden print tights. The sheer beach cover, the printed jumpsuits and the saffron shaded drop waist dress with flashes of flowers were elegant.

The kimono style silk dress with floral work and the crochet gown depicting flowers on the skirt added to the glamour of the collection. Bringing a fun element on the ramp, Prashant had two models in one large Tee with flower print wearing two red skirts and another pair of models in similar sheer and opaque knit cardigans teamed with black long skirts. The final entry – a long black leather bustier which flared into a skirt worn with a sequined bikini bottom was quite unconventional.

The natural fabrics that brought the collection to life started with hemp, soya, ramie, and silk and then moved finally to flex. Paying homage to nature, Prashant Chauhan’s collection will appeal to not only lovers of Mother Earth but also to the fashion conscious dresser.

at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012

Payal Singhal called her collection “India in Colour” and what a fantastic rainbow of hues she presented at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012.

It was a kaleidoscopic journey of fashion that moved from the gorgeous Rajasthani pinks; to the vibrant shades of the North and then onto the gentle tones of the East. Payal’s inspiration was very rustic and earthy as she drew lavishly from Indian Adivasi costumes of Kutch and Orissa with an acid neon palette of cyan, fuchsia, lime, cobalt and indigo which all came together on the ramp. The silhouettes remained oriental with kurtas, kaftans, tunics, dresses, short ghagras and kalidar saris, which glittered with intricate peeta, abhla and zardozi work.

Opening the show with an elegant pink linen colour block long dress, Payal followed it with glamorous cowl maxi with gorgeous gold neck embroidery. Mukaish work was lavishly splashed on pants and dupattas; while the asymmetrical kurtas dazzled with abhla work. The Patiala salwars, silk jodhpurs and Banaras jumpsuits were teamed with kurtas, sherwanis or net asymmetric dresses. The more ornate creations had pretty Keri or tota embroidery that glittered under the spot lights.

The show stoppers were the very sprightly Shibani Dandekar, popular singer, anchor and model, wearing a mirror work asymmetric lehenga with a sexy blouse and the handsome Puneet Pathak, (amazing professional dancer who dazzled audiences in India) wearing an ecru silk kurta and gold Patiala salwars.

Bringing together Indian drama and grandeur, Payal Singhal’s “India in Colour” collection was a feast for the eyes as well as the senses on the ramp.

 at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012

Mumbai, Friday, August 3, 2012: The mother and daughter duo of Nandita and Anuradha Thirani gave fashion an ethereal touch at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012 with their collection called “The Lotus Flower”.

Inspired by the lovely lotus flower the collection’s simplicity and elegance, which will appeal to women with finer tastes was highlighted by the stylish silhouettes. The colour story revolved around the tones of the lotus – as neutrals were gently combined with black, white, grey and nude.

Gold sequinned sheeting played an important role and appeared as patches or for the entire garment while ornate lotus motifs were the striking gold embroidery on most of the garments.  Soft jackets, black bias mini skirt, midi jackets, fluid silk palazzos,  net blouses,  pleated patched net and silk saris, satin harem pants, tiered layered net peplum dresses – the collection was a mix of the most elegant fusion creations.

Sexy organza trousers, a fuchsia poncho, velvet silk panelled voluminous pants, layered side slit wide palazzos and a high collar brocade sherwani with a stunning red lehenga completed this collection which reflected feminine beauty.

The silhouettes were easy and languid, which gave the garments a relaxed appeal. The hand painted foot wear by Spirited-Soles and the specially crafted jewellery by Nishi Murli from Kusum’s collections completed the look.

For a line that has ethereal and glamorous creations, Nandita and Anuradha Thirani’s collection gives the right options.

Mumbai, Friday, August 3, 2012: Inspired by the embellishments of Mexican folk art and tribal aboriginal art prints; Pia Pauro’s collection called “Espiritu de Mexico” made a great impact on the ramp at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2012. The clothes had the marked influence of the ancient ruins of the Olmecs, Mayan and Aztec empires along with hints of the rainforests and the beaches of Tulum and Acapulco.

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Offering a perfect wardrobe for an Acapulco holiday, Pia’s exotic jungle dresses, sexy swim wear and shorts, breezy sundresses and cool kaftans were part of a colourful collection. The designer also offered versatile jersey dresses; hand embellished cocktail wear in soft pastels and beach shorts with interesting organic bamboo buttons to complete the fun look. The fabrics were organic with cotton, georgette and jersey giving a practical touch to the garments.

Creating the Latino flavour on the ramp, Pia opened with a white embroidered shrug to set the mood of the show. Beadwork was lavishly used for yokes, panels, full dresses as well as the matching beach bags and clutches not to mention the sexy stilettos. The resort prints appeared for spandex jumpsuit, draped dresses, tube sheaths, shorts and shirts.

The evening wear line of will power minis and sexy gowns, some fully encrusted with beads and gold embroidery in the Mexican motifs dazzled on the ramp. Embroidered shorts, figure hugging pants, printed frilly fun blouses and dresses were all ideal for after dark holiday wear. The three entries for men’s wear followed the theme of the show, with comfy cotton pants, printed shorts, brightly coloured shirts making a relaxed style statement. For the show stopper Pia had the glamorous star of the hit Bollywood film ‘Dhobi Ghaat’ Monica Dogra dazzling on the ramp in a glamorous fully beaded silver jumpsuit. For that cool resort wear line that will dazzle on and off the beach, Pia Pauro’s “Espiritu de Mexico” collection offered a perfect holiday package.

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Thursday, 5th of July 2012, 7:30pm ///
Kosmos Berlin /// Karl-Marx-Allee 131 A /// 10243 Berlin

http://showfloorberlin.de/schauen/?lang=en

The label “GAURANG” personifies elegance and captivating beauty of traditional handloom weaves, created using Jamdani  and jacquard technique  with pure zari on cottons and silks. Jamdani is a brocaded fabric woven with discontinuos extra weft  yarns. The age old horizontal tapestry technique is imbibed in creating our jamdanis so that like the tapestries we get the exact  effect of a drawing/sketch  on fabric.

Way back in 2001,when the traditional Handlooms were fading in to an oblivion, due to declining patronage ,weaver communities were mired in debt traps, uncertainty and hunger deaths, Gaurang took up the challenge of reviving the traditional handlooms and bringing them back in vogue. It took  two painstaking years to regain the popularity for the handlooms. GAURANG now supports 250 handlooms  across India in the states of Andhra Pradesh, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Uttar Pradesh etc, specially engaged in a weaving technique called “jamdani”.

GAURANG is an avid exponent of varied textures and intricate designs in the weaves. He has always believed in reviving and maintaining the legacy of the age old techniques of weaving,embroidery, printing for the future generation.He plays with different types of fibers to create different textures as in cotton with silk border or a muga tussar border with a khadi body, the creations are an enchanting fusion of tradition and craftsmanship. Different types of yarns  like dupion, jute, muga, noil adorned by  gold and silver zari are used for the design weaves whereas, eco friendly and natural dyes from various fruits and leaves enrich the enchanting range of the creations. He believes in entity and hence is very particular about offering his exclusive best to all his customers.

Perfection being his aim, immense care is taken to accentuate the aesthetic appeal of its beautiful textiles.This label believes in offering a contemporary taste of the traditional Indian textile techniques from brocades like benarasi,kanjeevarams to prints like block,screen to embroideries like parsi gara,kutch,kashmiri to ikats and hand painted textiles like kalamkaris and tie dyes etc.To keep the beauty of the rich textiles intact, the silhouettes are kept very simple and basic yet very stylish and creative in the pattern to have an edge over trends and to give a contemporary flair making it a hot favourite even for the younger generation.The label caters to the premium range of customers with a higher price range to support and encourage the handloom sector be it the weavers or craftsmen to help in surviving and reviving the rich textiles of India both in a contemporary and traditional way. He is a designer who has always undergone bold efforts towards creating something very trendy and innovative  even with the most traditional of textiles indeed proving everytime that he is the one who can never go wrong on the style quotient too.