(ExplorersWeb.com) In previous years, ExplorersWeb have published one big Year in Review on January 1st.

This year we are cutting it up in sections, to be posted every day until the awards, with the compiled report to go up early 2010.

Part 1 : –  ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

Part 2 : -   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Polar adventures.

Today part 3: significant climbs.

New routes and significant ascents – 8000ers

The wall cost him three very good friends over the years and for them exactly, South Korean Mr Park summited Everest via a new route on the immense and difficult technical SW Face – 27 years since it last was climbed.

This year the last Himalaya giant was summited in winter: Makalu, by Italian Simone Moro breaking the Polish spell for a second time and with old friend Kazakh Denis Urubko by his side. Up until today, 9 out of all 14 eight-thousanders have been winter climbed. The remaining are in Pakistan, where all five 8000er summits are yet untouched by man in winter.

Only months later, Denis scored again. Kazakhs Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko climbed Cho Oyu’s SE face in alpine style on May 11th – a remarkable finish of the 14×8000ers project for Urubko. This was the first alpine climb of the face; the Urubko/Dedeshko line goes straight up, eventually joining the winter Polish route.

Success arrived after years of tenacious planning and the pictures said it all: a frightening couloir, a vertical ice wall – the small group of friends survived and triumphed a partial new line 11th July on Nanga Parbat in a season when even summits on the normal routes were scarce. “More than 2000m of complete new ground,” reported Gerfried Goschl, leading fellow Austrians Sepp Bachmair, Hans Goger, and Canadian Louis Rousseau.

New routes and significant ascents – lower peaks

Chang Himal’s 1,500m north wall was sent by Andy Houseman and fellow Brit Nick Bullock.

Skipping their original plan on Manaslu; Yannick Graziani and new Piolet d’Or chief Christian Trommsdorff instead climbed Nemjung’s 2,400 meters-long south face in alpine style.

Simon Anthamatten, 26, shot up from nowhere as climbing partner to Ueli Steck in relation to Ochoa’s rescue attempt on Annapurna last year. This fall Simon, his brother Samuel and friend Michael Lerjen – all in their twenties – bagged a summit near Nangpa-la, in one of the year’s coolest 7000er climbs: a first ascent in pure alpine style on the 2,200 m south face of Jasemba.

Piolet d’Or winner Marko Prezelj with fellow Slovenians Rok Blagus and Luka Lindic opened three new big wall routes on Garhwal Himalaya’s Bhagirati massif.

Ines Papert and her photographer Cory bagged Kwande Lho in an all-or-nothing 4 day winter ascent of the peak’s frigid north face.

Wuelian Feng 6627 m. The north facing buttress was graded M6 WI5 5.7 R and is 2650 meters. Bruce Normand, Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Jared Vihauer did it in a 5 day alpine style push.

Russians Sokolov and Gorelic forged a new route on the highly demanding Pobeda peak.

Jannu north face 2002 summiteers Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhailov made the first ascent of Peak 6206 in Sichuan, part of the Minya Konka massif, via a 1000 meter Big Wall.

Americans Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb bagged the virgin summit of Lunag Ri/Jobo Rinjang (6778m), a beautiful peak near Tarnga, which they climbed by the south face (Direct Route).

Chinese climbers Yan Dongdong and Zhou Peng completed the first all-Chinese ascent of Siguniang’s central south face. The new 1000 meters-long route includes difficulties up to M4/AI3+/VI and follows a direct line to the 6,250m main summit in Sichuan’s Siguniang mountain massif.

British Robert Jarvis, Paul Guest, Martin Moran and Leon Winchester made the first ascent of Changuch (6322m) in India.

Pat Deavoll (NZ) made a spectacular climb on June 21st. Unable to find sponsors and partners for her original target Kampire Dior; Pat instead made the first absolute ascent of Karim Sar (6,180m). Teaming up with Paul Hersey (N-Z), Pat scaled the last 1000 meters completely solo.

Close to 70 years old, Spanish Carlos Soria bagged the first ascent of Dome Kang (7264m) with Vicente “Tente” Lagunilla and three Sherpas.

Awards

A wider choice for election turned the revamped golden ice axe into plural “Piolets d’Or”, multiplying the number of prizes. Three teams – two of them Japanese – were unanimously awarded (Kamet’s SE face, Kalanka’s North face, Tengkampoche’s North face). A ‘life-time-award’ went to Walter Bonatti, 79. A “Spirit of Mountaineering”, award went to the group of voluntary rescuers who attempted to rescue Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna’s South face.

Kazakh Denis Urubko and Boris Dedeshko won the 4th Piolet d’Or Asia for their climb of Cho Oyu’s SE face in Alpine style. Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama got the ‘Golden Climbing Shoes’ award, while further honors went to Young-Seung Park and Oh Eun-Sun for their contribution in mountaineering.

CAI (Italian Alpine Club) awarded Simone Moro and Hervè Barmasse for the first alpine style ascent of Pakistan’s Beka Brai Chhok. The prize, currently in its third edition, was established by the CAI as a tribute to Marco and Sergio Dalla Longa, perished in 2005 and 2007.

The prestigious Eiger award went this year to Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko for their first winter Makalu ascent.

* Previous story :

–  ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Farewell to friends.

-   ExplorersWeb Year 2009 in Review: Polar adventures.

-   Tragedy in the Himalaya, 2009 climbing season.

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* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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I Recommend….

http://www.guidenepal.com/nepal/

MOUNTAIN EXPEDITIONS – MOUNTAINEERING IN NEPAL with Mountain Sherpa Trekking and Expeditions, Sherpa Guides Company.

Mountaineering is considered the keystone activity that Nepal offers to the climbers than any country in the world. The eight out of the fourteen 8000m peaks lie in Nepal including Mt. Everest (8000m), the highest peak in the world. Ever since, the country opened its peaks to climbers in 1949, the mountaineering activity has become the most popular trend of alluring thousands of adventures seekers to Nepal every Year. The pioneer of all, this Mountaineering was the major starter of tourism in Nepal that dates back to the Successful conquering of mount Annapurna by Mourice Herzog in 1950 and the Mt. Everest by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary in 1953. Since then, the record Setting and glory hunt of conquering these peaks have been remarked as the most prestigious earnings and so has been the ultimate dream of any climber to attain. Mountaineering in Nepal is also considered dangerous and life threatening due to the unprecedented Climatic Change and other hazards led by high altitudes. So, If you join any expedition with Mountain Sherpa Trekking & Expedition, our highly experience Sherpa Climber will give you fully safety instructions before the Expedition began. This is very important to minimize the risk of unprecedented climate Change. The Nepal Himalaya has also remained as an inspiration from ages for people from every walk of lives varying from poets to researchers, climbers to trekkers, philosophers to saints and nature Lovers to adventures.

MT.EVEREST EXPEDITION

Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world measuring 8,848m (29,028 feet) in height. It was first climbed on May 29, 1953 by a New Zealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay of Nepal. Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma (goddess mother of the snows), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Mother of the Universe).
Everest had been attempted many times before the important expeditions being that of 1922, 1923 and 1924.The body of George H.L. Mallory who died in an earlier attempt (1924), was discovered on the mountain in 1999. More than 600 climbers from 20 countries have climbed the summit by various routes from both north and south. Climbers’ ages have ranged from nineteen years to sixty. Climbing on Everest is very strictly regulated by both the Nepalese and Chinese governments. Climbing Everest and Treks to Everest Base Camp are becoming increasingly popular on both the north and south sides of the mountain. On the north side, a Buddhist monastery is one of two whose locations were selected specifically to allow religious contemplation of the great peak. The other side is the Thyangboche Monastery in Nepal. The once active Rongbuk monastery in Tibet has required much rejuvenation from the destruction it experienced following China’s invasion of Tibet.

KANCHENJUNGA EXPEDITION

Kanchenjunga (8,586) is the third highest mountain in the world. From 1838 until 1839 was believed to be the highest. It is an enormous mountain-mass and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000-meter peaks of the Himalaya.
Though not successfully climbed until 1955, it was first attempted in 1905, but four members of that international party were killed in an avalanche. As inspiring as Kanchenjunga’s beauty is at least the first three parties to ascend the mountain never attempted the final few feet to the summit out of voluntary respect or those who considered the summit sacred. The successful British expedition of 1955 set the standard by stopping a few feet short of the actual summit, in honor of the local religion.

LHOTSE EXPEDITION

Lhotse (8,516) is the fourth highest mountain in the world. Its long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mount Everest and the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000 meters. Lhotse is sometimes mistakenly identified as the south peak of the Everest massif. No serious attention was turned to climbing Lhotse until after Everest had finally been ascended. Lhotse was first climbed in 1956 by two Swiss, fritz Luchsinger and Ernest Reiss.
In addition to the main summit, there are two subsidiary peaks, Lhotse Shar, which is immediately east of the main summit, and Nuptse, a high peak on the mountain’s west ridge.

MAKALU EXPEDITION

Makalu (8,463) is the fifth highest mountain in the world. It is an isolated peak, located just 14 miles east of Mount Everest. Its size alone is impressive, but its structure, that of a perfect pyramid with four sharp ridges, make this mountain all the more spectacular.
It has proved to be a challenging climb, as only five of its first sixteen attempts were successful. Previously, it had been admired and studied by several Everest parties, but like so many other giants in Khumbu region, it was not attempted until the summit of Everest had been attained in 1954. A French group first climbed Makalu in year 1955.
Chomo Lonzo (25,650 ft.) is a subsidiary peak of Makalu, rising just north of the higher summit, separated by a narrow saddle.

CHO OYU EXPEDITION

Cho Oyu (8,201) is the sixth highest mountain in the world, located a short distance to the west from Everest and Lhotse (the fourth highest) in the Khumbu region of Eastern Nepal along the Tibetan border. Its towering peak stands with Everest well above the surrounding mountains. It became a familiar landmark to climbers ascending Everest’s north face. Just west of Cho Oyu is the Nangpa La, a 19,000-foot glacier pass, and the main trade route between the khumbu Sherpas and Tibet. Cho Oyu’s proximity to the Nangpa la has earned it the distinction among some climbers as being the easiest 8,000 meter peak. It was the third such peak climbed, and the first climbed in autumn by two Australian.

DHAULAGIRI EXPEDITION

Dhaulagiri (8,167), whose name means White Mountain, is the seventh highest mountain in the world. It is an enormous Himalayan massif, located in north central Nepal. After its discovery by the western world in 1808, it replaced Ecuador’s Chimborazo (20,561 ft.) as the postulated highest mountain in the world. It maintained this standing for nearly 30 years, until the discovery of Kanchenjunga, which was then falsely believed to be the world’s highest mountain.
Dhaulagiri’s crest stretches for thirty miles, lending structure to an otherwise tangled topography of twisting ridges, glaciers, and ice falls. Along the main crest, several pyramid-shaped peaks rise. Four of these summits, numbered form east to west, rise above 25,000 feet.
In 1960, the Swiss/Australian expedition who first reached the summit did so despite their airplane having crashed during the approach. This was the first Himalayan climb supported by an airplane, although the plane was subsequently abandoned on the mountain.

MANASLU EXPEDITION

Manaslu (8, 163) is the high peak of the Gorkha massif, and is the eight highest mountains in the world. It is located about 40 miles east of Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain. The mountains long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and it culminates in a peak that towers steeply above its surroundings landscape, and is dominant features when seen from afar. The name Manaslu is derived from the Sanskrit word Manasa and can be roughly translated as mountain of the spirit. An all-female Japanese expedition successfully ascended to the summit, thereby becoming the first women to climb an 8,000-meter peak.

ANNAPURNA EXPEDITION

Annapurna (8,091) is an enormous Himalayan massif, the tenth highest mountain in the world. In 1950, it became the first 8,000 meter mountain to be successfully climbed. It is located east of great gorge cut through the Himalaya by the Kali Gandaki River. The mountain has the glaciers on its western and north western slopes, which drain into this gorge.
Annapurna is a Sanskrit name that can be translated as goddess of harvests or more simply the provider. Of Annapurna’s many highs peaks, five are labeled using some variations of the name Annapurna. Of these, the two highest (Annapurna I and II), stand like bookends at the western and eastern ends of the massif.

* Source : – http://www.guidenepal.com/

** Previous story : – Trekking

- Nepal Trekking : GOKYO RI – CHOLA PASS – EVEREST BC TREK.

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The season appears to be over on a number of big peaks in the Himalaya after high winds and bad weather put an end to a number of climbs over the weekend, sending teams home without reaching the summits of their target mountains.

ExWeb reported yesterday that the Basque Team on Everest have abandoned their attempt on the Hornbein Couloir and are now headed home. The team only had one real shot at the summit along that route, but dangerous avalanches denied them on that occasion, and while they waited for another weather window, it became apparent that it wasn’t going to happen.

Meanwhile, the story was a bit different on Shisha Pangama, where on the North Side, Nicholas Rice reported in that they climbed up to C1 on Saturday, only to find that their tents and other equipment they had stashed there. They suspect that it was a Sherpa team with a Chinese squad who have already left the mountain, but aren’t positive of that fact. They also suspect that Camps 2 and 3 have been raided, and are disheartened by the fact that they not only had to give up on their summit bid, but have lost thousands of dollars of gear in the process. Two months worth of toil down the drain thanks to another selfish team.

On the South Side of Shisha, Edurne Pasaban and her crew attempted a summit bid over the weekend, but found their camps were missing as well, but for a completely different reason. The high winds swept them off the mountain completely, leaving them with little gear to proceed up. The team is back in BC and looking to borrow gear from some of the teams that are preparing to go home.

Over on Cho Oyu, a similar story is told by the Adventure Consultants, who wanted to make their bid starting on Sunday, but were also turned back due to high winds. With their weather window closed, they’re also headed home.

No word from Annapurna as of yet. The Korean team was hoping to wait out the weather and make another go at the summit, hoping to put Miss Oh on top and get her the coveted spot of the first woman to climb all 8000 meter peaks. At this time we don’t know if that is still a reality or if the window is closed there as well.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Details From Andrew and Ueli.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Manaslu reports – desperate rescue attempt ending sadly, Dream Guides’ summit + sky-ski debrief.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Storm pounding Himalayan 8000ers, Karakoram 2010 sneak preview.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Two of the big name climbers in the Himalaya this fall have posted updates to their websites filling us in on the details of their climbs. Both reached the summit of their respective 8000 meter peaks after some struggles along the way.

First up, Andrew Lock has updated his blog with the details on his summit of Shisha Pangma, which happened to be his 14th, and final, 8000 meter mountain. His tale is a good one, and well worth the read, as he lets us in on the scary nature of climbing up to the true summit amidst weather that was getting worse by the minute, and than played havoc with the descent. Harrowing stuff!

The other update comes from Ueli Steck, who is now home, safe and sound, after his climb on Makalu. Ueli had intended to make a solo, alpine style ascent along the West Pillar, but ended up going after the normal route and claiming a successful summit along the way. Ueli is back in Switzerland now, and starting to return to the routine of his normal life, but is also dealing with frostbite and exhaustion. He says that he has never been tested by a mountain like this one before, and that it was only through his strength of will that he actually stood on top. More good stuff.

While these two amazing climbers are safely down and sharing thoughts on their climbs, others are still preparing to make summit bids as the weather begins to shift in the region. ExWeb is reporting all of the weekend plans for teams looking to get into position for early next week, including Edurne Pasaban who is still hoping to become the first woman to join the list of the 8000 meter club.

ExWeb is also reporting that there is no change in status at this time for teams on Annapurna or Everest. On the former, Miss Oh is hoping to get another crack at the summit as well, so she can stake her claim at 8000 meter history, while on Everest, the Basque team is hoping at another shot at the Hornbein Couloir.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Manaslu reports – desperate rescue attempt ending sadly, Dream Guides’ summit + sky-ski debrief.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Storm pounding Himalayan 8000ers, Karakoram 2010 sneak preview.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Race against the storm on Shisha north side, note about Inaki’s route, and a few season’s records.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Lock celebrating his 14th 8000er, Miss Oh to give Annapurna a second try, Hiunchuli rescue attempt called off.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Drama on Shisha Pangma.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Miss Oh A Go For Annapurna Summit!

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Cho Oyu Trilogy Team Goes Home.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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Lhasa – Kathmandu Overland Tour

This overland tour connects two old capital cities, Kathmandu in Nepal and Lhasa in Tibet. The tour begins in Lhasa and ends in Kathmandu. En route, you cross over several high mountain passes with spectacular mountain views, including those of the majestic Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Makalu and Shishapangma.
This tour gives you an insight into the rich culture and history of Lhasa It is the most sought after tourist destination in Tibet.. Most popularly known as ‘Sunlight City’, Lhasa is regarded as the heart and soul of Tibet. As you drive across the Tibetan plateau, you can visit all the Tibetan monasteries, temples, monuments and important tourist sites. In Lhasa you can explore the Potala Palace, Sera Monastery, Norbulingka, Jokhang Temple, Drepung Monastery and the busy Barkhor Square. From the bustling old cities to the ancient villages and settlements, you get to observe Tibetan lifestyle at close quarters. This tour gives you an opportunity to discover the real Tibet and introduces you to the rich Tibetan culture, art and history.
Lhasa’s Main Attractions
In 1994, the Potala Palace was declared the United Nations World Cultural Heritage site. Potala Palace is situated at the west of old Lhasa, atop the “Moburi (Red) MountainIt was originally built in the 640’s, during the reign of King Songstan Gampo. The 13-story palace stands 117 meters high and has over 1,000 rooms. Covering an area of 130,000 sq meters, the entire building is made of stone and wood. The palace is widely known for its treasures, which includes sculptures, murals, ancient Tibetan Buddhist scriptures, Buddha figures, antiques, and jewelry. The Red Palace contains various chapels and mausoleums for previous Dalai Lamas. These are of great cultural and artistic value. The White Palace contains the living quarters of successive Dalai Lamas and their tutors. The offices of the old Tibetan government and their assembly halls are also located here. The original Potala was destroyed in the 9th century, during the breakdown of the Tubo Kingship era. It was rebuilt during the reign of the 5th Dalai Lama and completed in the late 17th century.
Jokhang Temple is located in the centre of old Lhasa city. It was original built in 647 AD. It is said the site was chosen personally by the wife of King Songstan Gampo, the Tang Princess Wen Cheng. It was built by craftsmen from Tibet, China and Nepal and thus features different architectural styles. The Jokhang is the spiritual centre of Tibet and the holiest destination for all Tibetan Buddhist pilgrims. In the central hall is the Jokhang’ s oldest and most precious object-a sitting statue of Sakyamuni Buddha ,when he was 12 years old. It is a gilded statue adorned with many jewels, in an elaborate setting. Pilgrims have prostrated themselves in front of this statue for centuries.
Drepung Monastery lies in the west of Lhasa under Mt. Gambo Utse. Built in 1416, it is considered as one of the largest monasteries in the six principle monasteries of Gelu Sect. Drepung Monastery used to be the living palace of Dalai Lamas before the reconstruction of Potala palace. This magnificent monastery resembles a huge walled city. From its roofs, one can enjoy the scenic view of Lhasa city. As the most powerful of the “Gelukpa” monasteries, Drepung had seven colleges and, at its height, housed over 10,000 monks. It owns many splendid murals, elaborate statues and other rich treasures. A giant golden statue of Buddha “Jiangba Tongzhenma” sits near the precious conch shell. During the building of the foundation of Drepung, Tsong Khapa discovered a magical white conch shell with counter clockwise swirls, believed to be buried by the Sakyamuni Buddha. Tsong Khapa bestowed this religious treasure to Drepung, and it can still be seen today in the “Great Sutra Chanting Hall”.
Located in the west of Lhasa, Norbulingka was built in 1755.It covers an area of 46 acres, with 370 rooms of different sizes.
Norbulingka is the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lama. Barkhor Street is found in the heart of Lhasa. It means “a pilgrim’s inner circuit”, and is the oldest street in Lhasa. Barkhor Street is an essential pilgrim route. It bustles with activity and is always jam-packed with trades people. The market is “a must visit site” for souvenir-hunting tourists. Many people call the Barkhor “the window of Tibet” as it offers a typical reflection of Tibetan life. The old circumambulation circuit is always crowded with pilgrims. Here you will find people from all over Tibet.
Sera Monastery – Sera means “Hailstone” in Tibetan. Legend has it that hail stones rained while laying the foundation of this famous monastery. Sera was the last of the three principal Yellow Sect monasteries to be built in Lhasa. Shaka Yeshe traveled to Beijing and as far as Mongolia to preach Buddhism. It was completed in 1419, under the supervision of Shaka Yeshe. He was given the title “The Tutor of the Empire”, by the Ming Emperor, Xuan De. Many precious gifts were sent to Sera by the Chinese Emperors, many of which are kept well preserved and can be seen at Sera to this day. Sera comprises a great sutra chanting hall, a college and 32 sections. It once housed nearly 10,000 monks
PEOPLE AND CULTURE
They are probably descendents of a variety of nomadic tribes who migrated from the north and settled along sedentary cultivation of Tibet’s river valleys.
The Tibetans are classified as belonging to the Mongoloid family of people. The Tibetans living within the borders of present day Tibet are easily identified by their distinctive dialects, social customs and dress. The Topas live in the highland regions (Lato and Ngari), the Tsangpas in the West Tibet (Tsang), the Upas live in central Tibet, the Horpas comes from the north (Nagchu/ Jangtang), the Kongpowas from the south, the Khampas live in the east, the Amdowa in the northeast, and the Gyarongwa in the extreme east.
In Lhasa, you will find some Tibetans speak a bit of English and are happy to have a chat with you. . It is appreciated when you try and use Tibetan language when communicating with Tibetans. Travelers to Tibet inevitably find Tibetans to be friendly and possessing a great sense of humorReligion is extremely important to the majority of Tibetans, and travelers should endeavor to respect their customs and beliefs. Always circumambulate Buddhist religious sites or monastery in a clockwise direction, and when in a monastery do not wear a hat, smoke or touch frescoes. In addition, refrain from climbing onto statues, mani stones or other sacred objects. Don’t photograph people without permission, and be aware that some locations prohibit photography without a fee.

The Fall Season is starting to wind down in the Himalaya, but there are plenty of teams still working hard to achieve their goals and reach the summits on their respective mountains.

Cho Oyu Trilogy Expedition

Sadly, one of those teams has had to call it quits, as the North Face Trilogy Expedition has decided to go home, thanks to China closing the borders of Tibet until at least the 8th of October. The team had originally planned climb Cho Oyu, with one of its members making a snowboard descent from the summit. Once they were back in BC, they would return to Kathmandu under their own power, with two running the entire way, while to others would mountain bike. According to the final update to their blog however, this will no longer be possible. The closing of Tibet has delayed their arrival on the mountain, and completely thrown off their schedule. Initially, they had thought about climbing a different peak in the region, but now they have elected to end the expedition and go home. Reading the post, you can tell that this was not an easy decision for them to make, but they feel it is the right one.

ExWeb is providing most of the updates from the region these days, as a lot of the professionally guided teams are done and heading home. On Shisha Pangma, ExWeb is reporting that a mixed Chinese-Tibetan team went up to the summit yesterday, but it is unclear if they reached the Main or Central Summit. There is no doubt where the Summit Club team is at today however, as their latest dispatch has them at the Central Summit, with great weather and low winds.

There has been no word from Andrew Lock, who is also climbng on Shisha. On his last report, he and his team were heading up along a difficult route, and with any luck they could be reaching the summit today as well. For Andrew, this will be his 14th, and final, 8000 meter peak. We’ll have to stay tuned for the news on his summit bid.

Also on Shisha, an Italian Team is working on a new route on the South Face, and if successful, team member Adriano Greco will attempt a ski descent of the mountain. They have been scouting the mountain for some time, and are now making final preparations for their summit bid as well.

Alpenglow Expeditions updated their blog with a brief note a few days back as well. They report on a slew of successful summits on Manaslu, putting a several climbers, led by Dorji Sherpa on the true summit. The first climbers to stand on that point in a decade.

Finally, the Field Touring Alpine Team may have gone home awhile ago, but they’re still updating their blog, this time with photos from Satopanth. The team reached the summit on the 23,212 foot tall peak back on Sept. 21st, and even survived a scary earthquake on their descent.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : More Summits, Death on Cho Oyu.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Basques survive two avalanches on Everest, Manaslu summits, news expected from Shisha.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Summits on Cho Oyu, More To Come Soon!

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : It’s Go Time!

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Satopanth summits, Himalaya climbers reporting on trash.

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Puja Done, Time to Move Up!

– Himalaya 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Ueli’s first trip up Makalu West Pillar, Cho Oyu teams ready for C1, expeditions’ equipment searched at Tibet’s border.

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions.

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

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It was another busy weekend in the Himalaya with successful summits, changes in the weather, and the sad news of a death on Cho Oyu.

I’ll start there today, as the news broke over the weekend that Clifton Maloney, the husband of U.S. Congresswoman Carolyn Maloney, died on Cho Oyu after achieving a successful summit. At the age of 71, he claimed the title as the oldest to summit that mountain, but died in his sleep back at C3 after telling one of his teammates “I am the happiest man in the world. I just climbed a beautiful mountain”. Maloney was an avid climber, sailer, and runner, having competed in the New York City Marathon on no less than 20 occasions. This is the first death of the season in the Himalaya, and I send my condolences to the family.

In other news on Cho Oyu, the North Face Trilogy team that had been planning to scale the mountain and then run/mountain bike back to Kathmandu, are in the process of altering those plans thanks to the Chinese closing the Tibetan borders once again. According to their latest blog posts, they’ll now consider a different peak in the region, since they won’t have access to Cho Oyu until after October 8th, and they won’t have the time to finish their project.

We also received an update on Ueli Steck over the weekend with the news that he reached the summit of Makalu late last week. He had been planning on making a solo, alpine style attempt on the West Pillar, but if you read his dispatches, you could tell how difficult that climb was going to be, so rather than go home empty handed, he topped out along the normal route while he was in the neighborhood.

IMG and Jagged Globe both put teams on the summit of Cho Oyu late last week and have posted photos and updates on the their teams as well, all of which are often the mountain and safe and are already en route back to Kathmandu for the journey hope. Congrats to everyone!

Summit bids are underway on Shisha Pangma, where Andrew Lock has updated his blog this morning with news that he is “Going For It”. He and his team have spent a night at C2 and the camps are well stocked up to that point, and he now believes that they’ll top out on Friday or Saturday of this week. They’ll be taking an alternate route to the summit that is long and challenging, but should avoid the treacherous cornices and snow that turned back another team yesterday.

Teams have been very busy on Manaslu the past few days as well, and the Altitude Junkies were successful in putting three climbers high on the mountain, but the did not reach the true summit itself, coming up about 15 vertical meters short. It seems that the ropes were not fixed all the way to the summit, and left them just short of the top. They elected to not attempt to go further for safety reasons. Meanwhile, according to Alpenglow Expeditions, climbing with Himex, the team should reach the top today and upon doing so, descend back to C2. Hopefully all has gone well for them this morning.

Finally, ExWeb has an update on the Basque team on Everest. The team was making a summit bid up the Hornbein Couloir, but are now back in ABC after a very scary night 7200 meters in which they survived no one, but two avalanches. The first hit them while they were in the tent, and buried it. Deciding that discretion was the better part of valor, they elected to head down the mountain, but were hit by a second avalanche that covered them in snow. They ended up spending the night under a rocky outcropping before making a long, slow treacherous descent the next day. No word as of yet if they’ll have another go at it.

* Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** Previous story :

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Basques survive two avalanches on Everest, Manaslu summits, news expected from Shisha.

-  Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Summits on Cho Oyu, More To Come Soon!

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : It’s Go Time!

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Satopanth summits, Himalaya climbers reporting on trash.

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Puja Done, Time to Move Up!

– Himalaya 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Ueli’s first trip up Makalu West Pillar, Cho Oyu teams ready for C1, expeditions’ equipment searched at Tibet’s border.

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions.

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Nepal having 8 out of 14 the highest peaks in the world is renowned for mountaineering, the thousands of mountaineers come in to Nepal from the far and wide of the world each year to fulfill their desire of standing on the summit of the Himalayas. 104 Icy mountains are opened for the expedition to the mountaineers. Manakamana Treks & Expedition organizes expediton in all major Mountains under the export management having well trained and experienced staffs who have earned the best reputation from the land of himalayas. To climb below mention mountains, we provide detailed itinerary and information on request. The quest to climb the highest mountains has captured the imagination of climbers throughout the world. However often you may go on a mountaineering expedition, you need to prepare well in order to get the most out of it. Through preparation will enhance your overall enjoyment of the trip and, of course, increase your chances of reaching your chosen summit. We offer a full range of mountaineering services to climbers of all abilities. With our expert instructors / leaders you can join a professionally led expedition to climb some of the world’s most sought-after peak. You can draw on our experience as established mountaineering company to help you enjoy what the mountains have to offer, improve your ability and to achieve your climbing goals.

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Everest Expedition South Col Expedition

Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world measuring 8,848 m (29,028 feet) in height. It was first climbed on May 29, 1953 by a Newzealander Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay of Nepal. Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma (Goddess mother of the snows), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Mother of the Universe). Everest had been attempted many times before the important expeditions being that of 1922 1923 and 1924.the body of George H.L. Mallory who died in an earlier attempt in 1999. More than 900…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 60 Days, Alt: 8848m

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Annapurna Expedition

This tour could be an ultimate pilgrimage trip for Buddhists living all around the world. The trip starts from Kathmandu the capital of Nepal where one can observe the open museum of Buddhist – Hindu art and architecture of medieval period, meditating caves of ancient times and amazing culture of local people. The tour extends from Kathmandu to Lumbini – The birth place of Gautama Buddha and concludes back in Kathmandu. This trip is not only for those devotees of Buddhists, but also for the students and teachers of Buddhism, Buddhist studies and…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 56 Days, Alt: 8091m

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Amadablam Expedition

Amadablam Expedition peak is located in the heart of the Khumbu region; Lhotse, Nuptse, Island Peak and Everest surround it. Ama Dablam is often sited as the most beautiful peak in the world. From far distances, Ama’s steep slopes and curving ridges draw ones eyes up toward its spectacular summit. Our route, the South West ridge, requires exposed granite ridge walking, ascending fixed lines on steep buttresses and snow and ice climbing at high altitudes. On the South West Ridge as one team, we will journey into the Khumbu region. After an acclimatizing…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 30 Days, Alt: 6812m

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Baruntse Expedition

Baruntse is located between in Everest and Makalu in the Eastern part of Nepal. Baruntse – the peak of Barun, the god of rain, is a prominent looking peak above the Khumbu/Chukung valley (to the north-east), the Hinku Valley (to the south-west) and the Barun valley (to the east. It was first climbed in 1954 by Sir Edmund Hillary and team. Our expedition will approach this beautiful peak through the Hinku/Hongu valley. Two mountains passes, the Tsetrawa La at 4,600m and Mera La at 5,200m, are crossed before Base Camp is reached at 5,400m. Baruntse…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 40 Days, Alt: 7129m

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Dhaulagiri Expedition

Dhaulagiri is one of the most popular 8000m. peaks for climbing in Himalayas . The seventh highest mountain in the world, Dhaulagiri, lies on north – west of Pokhara culminating high point at its eastern end. Dhaulagiri is almost uninque in the world in terms of its rise above local terrain, it rises 7000m. over Kaligandaki gorge the south east in about 30 km of aerial distance. In fact, Kali Gandaki is dramatic as two eight thousenders, Annapurna I & Dhaulagiri both stand near the river facing each other over a deep valley. When Dhaulagiri was first discovered in 1808…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 45 Days, Alt: 8167m

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Pumori Expedition

Mt. Pumori 7161m is the most popular mountain for those who whish to climb 7000m peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal. Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb on ice and snow. Normally, Mountaineering in pumori three camps are set in the approach above the Pumori base camp. The normal route for the Mt. Pumori climbing is South East Ridge. For Pumori expedition the Pumori Base camp will be set up at 5300m. We climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach Pumori Camp 1 at 5700m. From Pumori Camp 1, we climb 480m…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 35 Days, Alt: 7145m

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Manaslu Expedition

Manaslu lies in the Kali Gandaki valley of the Nepal Himalayas. This mountain was previously known as Kutang, ‘tang’ being the Tibetan word for flat place, thereby describing the mountain’s general summit. It was then renamed Manaslu which comes from the Sanskrit word “Manasa” meaning “intellect” or “soul”. It was first climbed by T.Imanishi & G. Norbu in 1956. Many consider the three peaks of Manaslu as Japanese peaks as they were the first to reach its summit in 1956. There exist half a dozen different routes on Manaslu today. The south face of this…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 51 Days, Alt: 8156m

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Makalu Expedition

Makalu (8463m.) was first climbed by a French party in 1955. The peak was first mapped and photographed from the Tibetan side by the 1921 British Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and Ship ton photographed Makalu during a side trip on the 1951 Everest reconnaissance. Hillary and others approached the peak a year later after the failure of their Cho Oyu expedition.The first attempt on Makalu was in 1954 by a US team, mostly from California, who trekked all the way from the Indian border near Biratnagar. At the same time a British team approached the…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 60 Days, Alt: 8463m

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Kanchenjunga Expedition

Kanchenjunga is situated in eastern part of Nepal at 8598m. It was first climbed by a British team in 1956. It is an enormous mountain mass, and many satellite peaks rise from its narrow icy ridges. It is located on the border of Nepal and Sikkim, just 46 miles northwest of Darjeeling. It is the most easterly of the great 8,000 meter peaks of the Himalaya. The peak consists of four summits. The west summit, Yalung Kang, is 8420m high and some people classify it as a separate 8000m peak. Three first Westerner to explore Kanchenjunga was the British botanist JD…

Activites: Expedition, Grade: 5, Duration: 61 Days, Alt: 8586m

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The Fall Himalaya season seems to be rapidly heating up as summit bids are now underway on a variety of mountains across the region. The acclimatization process is finished, the lines are fixed, and the high camps are stocked. Looks like it’s go time!

On Everest, the Basque team of Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo will begin their assault on the Hornbein Couloir tomorrow, with an eye on reaching the summit on Sunday morning, according to the latest update from ExWeb. The current plan is to survey the route tomorrow and if everything goes as planned, begin their alpine style ascent, which as ExWeb points out, has only been accomplished once before.

Jumping over to Makalu, we finally get an update from Ueli Steck, who is taking on the West Pillar solo and in alpine style. Ueli has had some set backs in that climb, and he is currently in BC, hoping for better conditions on the mountain, and knowing that he has just three weeks to make a go at it. If you read his very personal account of his attempt to go up the mountain, you’ll get a sense of the frustration he is currently feeling at not being able to climb as quickly and safely as he’d like. He’s even considered giving up and going home, which is so unlike the indomitable spirit we usually see out of him. It’s a bit sobering considering how strong a climber Ueli is, but it also says a lot about the conditions and challenges of this route on this mountain. Definitely a good read.

Meanwhile, the Chilean Ski Expedition is hoping to begin their summit bid on Manaslu tomorrow. They hope to top out on Sunday as well, and will then make the descent back down the mountain on their skis. On that same mountain, the Altitude Junkies should be in the middle of their summit bid right now, and should be hopefully reaching the summit this weekend as well. The Himex Team is apparently progressing with their acclimatization, and have already spent two nights at at 6300 meters, and are eyeing their bid, weather permitting, in the next week and a half.

Andrew Lock checks in once again from Shisha Pangma where he reports great conditions. He has now climbed up to Camp 1, but described the route as slow and treacherous at this point. It took him and his climbing partner, Kinga Baranowska, seven hours to make the trip up to 6250 meters. That climb was made several days ago, and today he and Kinga are back up to C1 to spend the night, before moving on to Camp 2 tomorrow. For Andrew, this is his 14th 8000 meter peak, so obviously he’s keen on using the great weather to his advantage and finishing off the last of the big mountains.

The North Face Cho Oyu Triology Team continues to make their way to that mountain, and are posting regular updates to their blog. Yesterday we were treated to some great photos from the area on the team’s blog and the video posted below was put up today. It shows climber Simone Moro in Chhukung village discussing his previous experiences in the Himalaya, of which he has had many.

Also on Cho Oyu, the IMG blog is reporting that their team is now in the middle of their final push to the summit, and updates later today should clue us in on their success. It looks like they should be standing on top very soon.

FInally, the Field Touring Alpine Team has updated their blog to let us know that the entire team is now back in BC on Satopanth after successfully putting several climbers on the summit of that peak located in the Hindu Kush of India. Well done team, and glad you’re all safe!

*Source : – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

* Previous story  :

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Satopanth summits, Himalaya climbers reporting on trash.

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Puja Done, Time to Move Up!

– Himalaya 2009 climbing season wrap-up : Ueli’s first trip up Makalu West Pillar, Cho Oyu teams ready for C1, expeditions’ equipment searched at Tibet’s border.

– Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions.

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(MountEverest.net/Madrid) Climbing action is underway: Ueli Steck has reached 6,700 meters on a scouting trip up Makalu West Pillar, while Cho Oyu and Shisha teams are taking positions in ABC.

According to teams still in Kathmandu, Chinese police is searching the expeditions’ gear at the border – a Belgian climber was reportedly kicked out after officers found a “Free-Tibet” flag among his personal equipment.

Makalu

“On September 4, I reached 6700 meters on Makalu’s West pillar,” Ueli Steck reported from BC on Sunday. “I felt very good and motivated. I also had the chance to study the pillar from very close. The route looks very difficult: steep rock and ice climbing on over 7500 meters. Otherwise, the weather was good and the snow conditions plain amazing. It was a good trip to get well acclimatised and to study the route.”

Conditions turned for the worse as Ueli returned to BC. The team is currently sitting out a snowy spell.

Shisha Pangma

“It’s that time again – It’s the post monsoon season and I’m heading back to the hills,” Andrew Lock reported over Contact 4.0 from Bangkok’s airport. “After putting off the expedition last season, I am now returning to the Himalaya to launch that attempt on Shisha Pangma. My team is Neil Ward from Wales – with whom I climbed on Makalu in 2008 and in Tibet in 2007, and Kinga Baranowska from Poland. Kinga has six 8000ers under her belt.”

”If all goes well, we’ll obtain our climbing permit in a couple of days, cross the border into Tibet and commence the journey to BC,” Andrew added. “I hope to hit ABC around the 16th of September. Climbing should commence immediately and with luck we’ll launch our summit attempt in early October. If all goes well…”

Spaniards Pauner and Oiarzabal, also aiming for Shisha’s normal route, are already in BC.

Fellow Spaniard Edurne Pasaban, heading for the South side, landed in Kathmandu yesterday. “We plan to leave for Tibet on Friday – let’s hope we have no problems to cross the border,” Edurne wrote. “We’ve been told that a Belgian team got their gear registered by border officials – who found a “Free Tibet” flag in one of the expedition’s drums. The team was allowed to enter after long negotiations, except for the owner of the flag, who was banned and refused a visa. He is apparently on his way back home.”

Cho Oyu

IMG’s Cho Oyu climbers are also in ABC, planning to take a first acclimatization trip to C1 yesterday. “A total of 8 other groups have rolled into ABC so far and several more are at Base Camp,” the team reported. “We’re out in front so that’s good!”

Another front-line expedition on Cho Oyu is Jagged-Globe’s: “The last few days have involved a couple of acclimatisation walks, and an afternoon practicing on fixed ropes again,” Jack Grover wrote earlier today. “The weather has been as expected – clear mornings with showers in the afternoon, then clear evenings. Tomorrow is our Puja and we plan to head to Camp 1 for our first night on the mountain proper after this blessing ceremony.”

Meanwhile, Alpine Ascents’ team was on their way to Tingri from Nyalam today.

* Previous story  : – Himalaya Autumn 2009 expeditions.

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(MountEverest.net/Madrid. Story updated 6.30 am CDT) Spanish Ferran Latorre, climbing ahead of the rest, topped-out Kangchenjunga around 2:30 pm, local time. Ferran’s mates Edurne Pasaban, Juanito Oiarzabal, Asier Izguirre and Alex Chicon reached the summit about two hours later.

Circa 20 people had departed C4 on Kangchenjunga at about 0:30 am, local time today, in rather strong wind conditions. News is expected soon from Mi Sun Go’s Korean expedicion, Kinga Baranowska, Alberto Zerain, Patxi Goñi and some others.

Jorge Egocheaga decided not to join the summit push, due to health reasons. He instead reached BCmidday today, showing symptoms of bronchitis but otherwise fine.

Nives Meroi and Romano Benet aborted their attempt yesterday.

Edurne holds the current female 8000ers record with 12 summits bagged. Austrian Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, currently on a summit push on Lhotse, might equal the number this week.

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A big storm sent down most climbers early in the week except for Denis Urubko who incredibly bagged the summit of Cho Oyu via a new line on the SE face in alpine style. 

Huge summit pushes are underway again however, with most climbers – including on Everest – gunning for a May 18-19 weather window. The Kazakhs Lhotse-Everest team is retreating, while many Everest South side teams are in Camp 3.

Last week brought debriefs on the fatal Khumbu icefall avalanche; deadly methanol in Everest BC; the car accident involving Central Asia Institute staff and journalists; a ghost ship; a cruise in pirate waters; and – the Hubble telescope. There were several interviews and K2 pioneer Achille Compagnoni passed at age 94.

Everest south side icefall avalanche debriefs: Walter Laserer, Lhapka Nuru Sherpa and Bernice Notenboom got hit by the biggest avalanche this season racing down the West Shoulder of Mount Everest. Bernice escaped without much harm, while Walter had to be rescued by other climbers – mostly members in the Indian Mountaineering Institute which were very close when the avalanche struck. Several people looked in vain for Lhakpa Nuru until dangerous conditions forced the search to be called off. A boot belonging to the Sherpa was the only trace found.

Bad whiskey kills Sherpa in Everest BC Ngima Sherpa and Mountain Top Kaji Sherpa shared what they thought was Nepali Royal Stag deluxe whisky – instead this was methanol, part a stock of illegal brew made in Kathmandu and delivered throughout the Khumbu in the last few months. The dealer in Lukla is a Gurung called Lama and so far four other people have died in the region because of this poisoning, Gavin Bate reported. Kaji died while Ngima survived after a prolonged battle for his life first by the Indian Army team doctor and then the HRA medical emergency tent and others.

News from Pakistan: American photographers recovering – obituary for driver Raza Khan Teru Kuwayama, the fearless NYC photographer who has helped Central Asia Institute (CAI) for several years, was in a near fatal accident on the road from Peshawar to Islamabad last Saturday evening. Pathan driver Raza Khan was killed. Preliminary reports said that Lynsey Addario, a New York Times photographer/writer was also killed in the same accident. However, ”both photographers are no longer in critical condition at Shifa International Hospital in Islamabad, and will be evacuated back to USA later this week,” CAI’s Greg Mortenson told ExWeb in an email. “Teru had multiple contusions and head trauma, while Lynsey sustained a broken collarbone and other injuries.”

Cho Oyu: Denis and Boris’ SE face summit, alpine style Only months after his virgin winter ascent of Makalu; Denis is done with his last 8000er – Cho Oyu’s SE face climbed in alpine style for the first time. The summit was attained on May 11 just as a big storm ravaged Himalaya sending down all other climbers; descent took three days, via the ascent route.

Cho Oyu: Anyone to fix ropes? Al Filo Spanish team of disabled climbers reported that there are no fixed ropes above C2, and some climbers are waiting for someone else to do the job for them. “There are no strong Sherpa teams here fixing the route,” they dispatched. “That’s fine with us, but apparently not with other climbers who lack the skill to fix ropes by themselves – and haven’t brought a single meter of rope anyway.”

Ben Clark – 10 days on Baruntse The team was stuck at 21,500 for a few days in the storm. A case of AMS prevented a ski descent so the climbers came back down their ascent route. Ben and Josh might go back up in a few days.

New line in Western Sichuan Jannu North face 2002’s summiteers Alexander Ruchkin and Mikhail Mikhailov climbed an unnamed 6206 m top via a 1000 meter big wall, RussianClimb reported.

Makalu: retreat from the West Pillar Weather forced Albert, Mikel and Juan back from Makalu West pillar last weekend. The climbers returned to BC after a rough night in high winds at 6,500m. This weekend the climbers returned to BC after a second failed attempt.

Kangchenjunga: Edurne Pasaban hoped to reach the top by Saturday or Sunday. “Everybody is here,” Edurne told ExWeb over the sat phone from C3 on Friday. “Mi Sun Go’s Korean team; Spaniards Alberto Zerain, Patxi Goñi, Koke Lasa, Juanjo Garra; Polish Kinga Baranovska; Norwegian Jon Gangdal; a Dutch climber (don´t know his name), and Italian Nives & Romano.” By Sunday the Kangch summit bid was delayed one day due to wind (summits expected on Monday).

Dhaulagiri: Sky-skier Louis Stitzinger’s team, two Korean newcomers and a Japanese team are on summit push.

Manaslu: “There’s a limit for everything – after 40 days on this mountain, we’ve reached ours by far,” Carlos Pauner decided Thursday and called the expedition off. In spite of deep snow burying the route and wrecked high camps, some other Manaslu teams launched a summit push: “The Andalusia girls, Japanese, Swiss and some individual climbers are going up,” the girl’s home team reported Friday. The climbers hope to reach C4 on Sunday, and then go for the summit later that night. Should the wind blow too strong, they may wait for one extra night in C3, in order to attempt the summit on Tuesday. Bolotov’s Russian team is still hoping for the weather to improve, in order to launch a fifth (!) attempt to reach Manaslu summit.

Everest north side: Everest north side teams have been moving slowly due to excess snow. Newcomers are World Wide Viking’s Norwegian expedition which includes Petter Kragset (in his third attempt on Everest), Johnny Brevik (second time on the mountain) and Stein Grønnerøe (Everest first-timer). Some climbers such as the Japanese plan summit pushes within two weeks.

Shisha Pangma: Romania’s Explorers Sport & Charity Foundation is attempting a new route on Shisha Pangma near the 1982’ British route. The team will only use one high camp and a gear drop. The expedition is a first stage in the “Endeavor 8000 Transylvania” series aiming to summit all 14, 8000ers in light style.

Summit pics and debriefs: Joao Garcia, already back in Portugal, sent over some pics from his recent ascent on Manaslu. Also the Indian Army expedition members are back home, from where they sent over a Dhaulagiri summit report and pictures to ExWeb.

Lhotse: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Ralf Dujmovits, David Göttler and Hirotaka Takeuchi are preparing to set off from BC towards Lhotse’s summit. “We’ll wait for a further confirmation forecasts tomorrow, but all going according to plans we will leave BC on Sunday,” Ralf reported Friday.

Nanda Devi: The Polish team is in their second week on Nanda Devi East. Some members reached Longstaff pass last week, and are now on their way back to BC, across C1 and ABC.

Puryear and Gottlieb’s Jobo Rinjang debrief: “It is with great happiness that David and I report the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct south face, in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, climbing alpine style over 6 days (from April 20 to April 25), summiting on April 22,” Joe Puryear reported in his debrief. Americans Joe Puryear and David Gottlieb bagged a first ascent on a highly difficult 6,778 m mountain face in alpine style, and compiled a complete list of surrounding peaks – for those who will follow.

Pakistan: BP/K2double team off to Skardu Elisabeth Revol, Antoine Girard and Ludovic Giambiasi are sharing permit for Broad Peak and K2 with another team and will fly to Skardu tomorrow morning. The trek starts May 18 – the small team’s outfit agency reportedly told them they are first up, with the others expeditions to arrive later.

Achille Compagnoni dies Italian K2 pioneer Achille Compagnoni died on Wednesday May 13 in a northern Italy hospital at age 94.

ExWeb Interview with 2009 Nanga/K2 leader Gerfried Göschl After surprising the Himalayan climbing community by summiting Shisha and Everest (no O2) within one month in 2005; Gerfried Göschl will lead a large team in an attempt on Nanga Parbat and K2 via new routes this summer. ExWeb ran a 2-part interview with the mountaineer.

Chocolate Sherpa Project: Chocs tasted for Nepal mobile hospital Louis-Philippe Loncke and his team reached their goal to distribute 100 kg Belgian chocolate at Everest Base Camp and raise awareness for the necessity of a mobile hospital in Nepal.

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Update: I was just finishing up this story when the reports began to trickle in of a massive avalanche on the South Side of Everest, that swept down into the Khumbu Ice Fall. Apparently it was a big one, and there has been at fatality. Two climbers were caught up in the slide, one survived, while another was sent down into a crevasse. Early indications are that it was one of the Sherpas, but who he was climbing with hasn’t been revealed yet. We’ll have to wait to see if this avalanche will have any effect on the climbing schedules, as from what I can gather, part of the Ice Fall route has been damaged and will need to be rebuilt. Stay tuned!!

Earlier this week we heard that the ropes were fixed to the summit of Everest and that five Sherpas topped out, followed closely by David Tait, pictured here. With that minor detail out of the way, the rest of the teams are now waiting, watching the weather, and scheduling their summit bids. Throughout the Himalaya, on a variety of mountains, other climbers are doing the same.

ExWeb is reporting that there is action all over the region, with Edurne Pasaban is finishing her acclimatization process on Kangchenjunga, just as Nives Meroi and Romano Benet arrive in base camp. The two women are locked in a race to see who will be the first to claim all 14 800 meter peaks.

Over on Makalu, ExWeb says that the Korean team has already summitted along the “normal” route, topping out on the first of May. But the team of lberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo have set out along the mountains daunting West Pillar, hoping to make an alpine style ascent over the next 4 to 5 days, in one single push, without Sherpa support or established camps. Good luck guys!

Despite the activity on these other big peaks, all eyes are on Everest at the moment, where teams are getting ready to start the summit push beginning tomorrow. Alan Arnette reported on his Everest 2009 page yesterday that on the North Side of the mountain ropes were fixed up to the North Col, but high winds were stalling out efforts to reach the summit. The teams there are waiting just as anxiously as their counterparts to the South. Today there are reports of a large avalanche on the North that swept ropes off the mountain, which will further delay efforts to summit from that side.

But on the South Side, it is definitely time to go, and go they will, starting tomorrow. The First Ascent Team has their plans in place, and Ed Viesturs is happy to share them with us all in the video below. The latest video is a nice recap of the expedition so far, and does a nice job of laying out their attempt at the summit. Ed hasn’t been on Everest in a few years, but by all accounts, he hasn’t missed a beat and is as strong as ever. He’s a great spokesman for the team, and the video is great for those unfamiliar with the climbing tactics.

First Ascent isn’t the only team heading up the South Col. The Discovery Channel blog indicates that they are about to begin their push as well. The latest entry is an excellent read, that discusses the climb, the logistics, and weighing the risks. Of course, if Discovery is going up, that means that IMG and Himex are beginning their assaults, since they are the two teams who are being filmed for the next season of Everest: Beyond the Limit, although Billi Bierling indicates that the team is in Gorak Shep resting, as Russell Brice didn’t think the weather window looked right just yet.

It should be noted that the climbing schedule seems to be a ahead of what is considered normal at the moment. The weather has been great for most of the season so far, and traditionally on the South Side, teams have until about the first of June to reach the summit. After that, the ice doctors tend to quit maintaining the route through the Ice Fall, and everyone packs up and goes home. On the North Side, teams don’t have deal with the Ice Fall so they can go a bit longer into June, but by mid-way through the month, the weather changes, and the monsoon moves in, cutting off the summit until Fall. That said, there are still three weeks of opportunities for teams to climb, and summit reports will be coming in throughout that period. It should be very busy starting tomorrow, with summits beginning on the 12th.

* Source :  – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** See :

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 1 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Nanda Devi East Expedition 2009 part 2 : Polish to celebrate 70th anniversary of first ascent.

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 5. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz.5. /Version english and polish/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

Celebrations and terror both took place on Manaslu last week. Closing April 2009; high Himalayas have already claimed the lives of three mountaineers.

There was triumph at the North Pole, with both full length teams, one unsupported and one guided/supported, breaking a number of records. ExWeb ran an interview with Simone Moro, Henk de Velde reached another harbor, and Everest is slowly getting ready for the big day – on both sides.

Manaslu summit and tragedy Joao Garcia, Kim Chang-Ho, Seo Sung-Ho, and Lhakpa Tsering Sherpa (in a repeat) topped out in lousy conditions. A short sat call to his home team from Czech Radek Jaros said he summited Manaslu the following day. The mountain claimed the life of Italian Giuseppe Antonelli, who was lost to HAPE while retreating from C3.

Annapurna: Elisabeth Revol’s recount French Eli Revol reported that she and Martin Minarik reached Annapurna’s Eastern summit on April 19th. The weather turned for the worse that day, adding to the climbers’ exhaustion after 8 days on the face. The two reportedly came down the north side in a terrible snow storm, with Martin feeling increasingly weaker. Revol took a fall and barely escaped a gaping crevasse the following day. The last she saw of Martin was a dot descending at about 6,700m in her tracks. Search parties have been unsuccessful and hopes for Martin’s survival have faded.

Lunag Ri summit! Joe Puryear and David bagged the virgin summit of Lunag Ri, also called Jobu Ribjang, reported their KTM outfitter Climb High.

Everest north side: Gabriel Filippi’s team is in place with Peruvian Richard, who will attempt a no-O2, no Sherpa support Everest climb. Libor Uher’s team also crossed the Nepal/Chinese border. Manuel Pizarro and his mate climbed to 11,000 feet in a little less than 72 hours, and met mountaineers crushed by the altitude which had to descend all the way to Kodari. SummitClimb ascended to NC April 26 and will head back up on April 30th for a camp 1 and camp 2 rotation before the final summit attempt.

Everest South side: The jet stream descended on Everest early in the week; trashing a number of tents in C2. The fixed lines have been put in as far as the South Col, and the Yellow Band is to be bolted. Climbers are heading up on a last rotation trip which includes one night in C3, while some groups have reportedly not gone through the icefall at all, but are acclimatizing on nearby peaks instead. A snow weather front was expected to move in on Friday.

The Croatian Everest women got a cool visit from Andrej Stremfelj with wife Marija (the first married couple on top of Everest 19 years ago), Viki Groselj, Stipe Bozic, Tone Skarja and others from the Slovenian/Croatian/Bosnian 1979 Everest west ridge expedition.

Lhotse-Everest traverse: The team was visited by 14×8000er summiteer Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli, possibly going for Lhotse. The Kazakhs set off on their third rotation trip to C2 late week, with the goal to set and supply C4 at 8,000m, spend a night and then return to BC for final rest before the planned Lhotse-Everest traverse.

Cho Oyu: “Welcome to Tibet” SummitClimb’s international Cho Oyu troop crossed into Tibet April 25, uneventfully and the customs official said, ‘Welcome to Tibet’, Martha Johnson reported from Nyalam. Spanish Al Filo reported eight teams of barely 50 foreign climbers and about 20 high-altitude Sherpas in Cho Oyu BC.

Makalu: West Pillar Alberto Iñurrategi, Mikel Zabalza and Juan Vallejo climbed Baruntse as a preparatory climb before attempting Makalu’s West Pillar in alpine style. The climbers used no fixed ropes or camps on the way to Baruntse’s summit. Next acclimatization trip will be up to Makalu La, where the climbers plan to spend one night.

Makalu normal route: Roland Hunter and his team made it to the Col on Tuesday. Next stop is Makalu La and then the final push. Other climbers on the peak include a 16 men-strong Indian team, two Swedes, two Spaniards, one Japanese, one Mexican, and an American team led by Steve House (currently acclimatizing on Baruntse).

Makalu/Kangchen double for Korean dark horse? A 12-member Korean team is currently fixing the entire route and breaking trail for a female team member. “She has not left BC yet. Once the route is ready, she’ll just go all the way to the top, while a chopper waits in BC, ready to airlift her to Kangchenjunga,” the Basques reported. “Another Korean team is currently working for the lady on Kanchen, so she can go for another summit push right after arrival in BC, with everything fixed for her.” The Korean lady is probably Oh Eun-sun, hoping to bag the 14×8000ers in record time.

Kangchenjunga: Edurne & Co left a cache in C3, while Oscar Cadiach’s team did a first trip up to C1. No news yet on Nives and Romano, expected in BC any day. Norwegian Jon Gangdal’s team is also working on Kangchen’s southern side.

Dhaulagiri: Sky-skier Louis Stitzinger’s team left a cache at C1 and returned to BC. “An Indian expedition has fixed thick 10mm ropes on the lower sections of the route,” they reported. “In addition there are Korean, Japanese, Polish and Czech teams here.” Some climbers reported there might be a summit push ongoing, but no news is available yet. The Polish team of Tatra Mountain rescuers reported strong winds and tough sections of crystal ice between C2 and C3, which forced the climbers to fix a large amount of rope.

Pumori: Russian Krasnoyarsk team set up Base Camp (5180 m) by Pumori’s South face on Monday. “Weather’s being great – conditions are unusual for spring-time in the Himalayas: There is little snow and the rivers are dry,” they reported.

Steck, Anthamatten and Samurais awarded Piolets d’Or – BAC prize for Ochoa’s rescuers A wider choice for election turned the brand new award into plural “Piolets d’Or”, multiplying the number of prizes. Three teams – two of them Japanese – were unanimously awarded (Kamet’s SE face, Kalanka’s North face, Tengkampoche’s North face). A ‘life-time-award’ went to Walter Bonatti, 79. A “Spirit of Mountaineering”, award went to the group of voluntary rescuers who attempted to rescue Iñaki Ochoa on Annapurna’s South face.

Winter Makalu debrief interview with Simone Moro: Following his first winter ascent of Makalu, Simone returned home to a chain of dramatic events. His Shisha climbing partner was lost on Dhaulagiri and an earth quake struck his country. ExWeb caught up with Moro in US this week for a 2-part interview.

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06:58 am CDT Apr 17, 2009 (MountEverest.net) Everest south side teams are checking in from C2 and yesterday a leaders’ meeting was held in BC.

Some north side expeditions are across the border while others have run out of time while waiting for permits. One is Andrew Lock, whose 14×8000ers finals will have to wait until September.

Another snow spell has forced Manaslu teams back to BC, and thwarted a Korean summit bid. On Annapurna, a storm is holding up Minarik, Kopold and Revol at 6,700m.

Everest-Lhotse traverse

The Kazakh Lhotse-Everest traverse team set up C1 on Everest south side Wednesday, hoping to establish C2 on the Western Cwm and venture to C3’s location before returning back to BC today.

The Kazakh expedition has split up in two teams: Vaso (leader) Max, Sergei Samoilov, Alex Sofrygin, Evgeniy Shutov and Artem Skopin are attempting the LE traverse, while a second team including Dmitriy Grekov, Nikolay Gudnik, Alex Rudakov, and Sveta will head for Lhotse.

Everest South side – others

Yesterday the expedition leaders met in Everest South side BC to discuss further work on the route.

“After lunch, I joined Peter Whittaker, Jeff Martin and Linden Mallory for a short walk to Damian Benegas’ camp, where an initial team-leader meeting had been called for,” First Ascent’s Dave Hahn reported.

“There was plenty of handshaking and backslapping among those gathered. All of the usual suspects of South Side Everest climbing, plus the former North Siders who’ve all given up on the Chinese restrictions on entrance to Tibet were there. The big players: IMG and HimEx, Adventure Consultants and Jagged Globe were there, along with Croatians, Russians, Kazakhs, Koreans, Irish, Spanish, Swiss and Canadians.”

“We tried to figure out radio frequency overlaps and attempted to pool resources for rescues and rope fixing,” Dave added. “The gang agreed to meet tomorrow to build a helipad to the west of camp.”

“Since our IMG team is ahead of most of the others, we will start working on the route to C3 and Ang Jangbu will coordinate with other teams on their contributions to the effort,” Eric Simonson stated after the meeting. “Based on preliminary commitments from the leaders meeting, I note that some teams are prepared to step up with significant contributions, while others are rather pathetic.”

Peak Freaks’ Tim Rippel reported about 30 people attending the meeting – including the ever-present Discovery channel filming crew.

“Other topics of importance they discussed were safety issues,” Peak Freaks home team reported. “One in particular was that the team leaders need to stress to their members how important it is “if you are slow” to move over and let faster climbers pass.”

“Peak Freaks and Alpine Ascents have volunteered to jointly make the heli-rescue pad,” Tim added.

Everest south side – climbers

Meanwhile, Abramov’s 7Summit-Club team members are making themselves at home on Everest South Side BC – just as they did in previous years on the Tibetan side. They’ve already had their Puja and a first taste of the Khumbu Icefall.

A number of climbers spent their first night in C1 on Wednesday and Thursday. Some did a day trip to C2, and returned back to BC, such as the Finnish Airborne Rangers, Altitude Junkies, IMG and John Golden.

“Camp II is partly on rocks and partly on ice or snow,” the Finns reported. “At arrival, strong wind prevented us from pitching the tents, so we left them cached in place, the deposit marked by a tiny Finnish flag.”

Everest North side: (some) teams in Tibet

“On Tuesday we had a hard day crossing the border in Zhangmu, but eventually we managed to get into Tibet,” Summit Climb leader Arnold Coster reported from Tingri. “Everybody was a little bit irritated from the long wait for the visa and also the long wait at the border crossing, but everything is good now.”

The team was scheduled to reach BC today.

Japan’s Kanagawa University team was permitted to enter Lhasa last week, after climbing Yara Peak in Langtang.

Andrew Lock’s 14×8000ers finals cancelled – Kuriki switching to Dhaula

While the above two teams finally made it to Tibet, others had to change their plans. Japanese Nobukazu Kuriki had still not received his permit by March 25 and was forced to switch for Dhaulagiri instead, considering to give Everest a try in fall instead.

Australian Andrew Lock hoped to complete his 14×8000ers quest on Shisha followed by Everest north side without supplementary O2. Andrew and Mexican mate Hector spent 2/3 weeks acclimatizing in Khumbu while trying to get a climbing permit in Kathmandu – all in vain though.

“I’m sorry to say that I’ve had to cancel my Shishapangma expedition this season,” Andrew reported. “We’ve been unable to secure a climbing permit, so Hector and I decided that we just didn’t have enough time left to give that mountain a good attempt, let alone go to Everest afterwards. We’re heading home and will try again in the post monsoon. It’s a disappointing end to the season but we wouldn’t call them ‘expeditions’ if they were easy. See you in September.”

The situation is still uncertain for Dragan Jacimovic’s Serbian team. First they were delayed in Kathmandu for over a week until they finally obtained their visa and climbing permits. Then they were stopped near the border two days ago. “Due to current circumstances I reckon that tomorrow morning we will finally enter Tibet,” Dragan reported from Dhulikle village on Wednesday. “We got some information that the road to Kodary (on the Tibetan side of the border) is blocked due to some strike or whatever!”

“We may try during the night,” Dragan added, “when all strikers go to sleep!”

Annapurna

April15, Martin Minarik reported to have reached 6,700m. Today, Elisabeth Revol reported over SMS that the team remains there in wind and snow storm conditions.

After spending some days in BC waiting for the weather to settle and allow Romano to recover from bronchitis, Nives Meroi and Romano Benet hoped to reach a cache at 5600 m yesterday and go a bit further up before returning to BC.

Kangchenjunga

Edurne Pasaban’s Spanish team reached BC yesterday. Some of the team’s load is still on the way from Ramse village.

Manaslu

The Korean Dynamic Busan Hope team’s summit bid on Manaslu was thwarted by strong wind on April 14th, Nick Rice reported. The Koreans turned back at the 7,300/7,400 meters plateau, according to RussianClimb.

Most climbers left C2 and C1 for BC when a storm approached Wednesday.

Cho Oyu

In addition to Edurne Pasaban’s Kangchenjunga expedition, Spanish TV Al Filo de lo Imposible is supporting a team of physically-challenged climbers on Cho Oyu this spring. The team departed for Nepal last week, and has not reported problems with visa or climbing permits.

In spite of being disabled; Ricardo García, Valentín Ruiz, Miguel A. Gavilán and Arturo Rodriguez will climb without O2 support. The team includes David Perez on camera, Nacho Orviz as climbing guide, and two members of the Spanish military mountain group: Alberto Ayora and Pedro Arcederillo.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

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All across the Himalaya a similar process is now getting underway, as the teams begin focusing on the all important process of building their high camps, and in the process, their own acclimatization as well.

Everest BC

On Everest, the route through the Icefall was established several days back, and teams have wasted no time in crossing through, and building their first camp on the other side. One team, the Lhotse-Everest Traverse squad, is hoping to go as high as Camp 3 already to pack in as much acclimatization time as possible.

Most of the Himex team is off to Lobuje, where they are making an acclimatization climb according to Billi Bierling, a journalist based in Kathmandu, who is part of the team. She’s actually in Gorak Shep, the last village before BC, and will be joining the rest of the crew there shortly. Speaking of Himex, the big boss Russell Brice, landed in base camp a few days back, and is sporting some very nice, high class accommodations in effort to remain as comfortable as possible on the mountain.

While some of their climbers are still arriving in BC, the Sherpas for IMG and Peak Freaks have begun moving their way up the mountain, and have already established Camps 1 and 2. The Peak Freaks report that the big logistical meeting was held today, with about 30 team leaders in attendance, and possibly being filmed by Discovery. According to the blog post, safety issues were discussed, as were the workload for fixing the lines, with Himex taking the lead in that area. Will Russell Brice take control and organize those elements the same way he did for so long on the North Side? Sounds like his team is definitely making their presence known.

On the North Side of the mountain, teams are just now making their way into base camp, so they’re a bit behind schedule, although they deal with different logistical issues, and the Chinese are handling the fixing of the lines, so there is likely to not be any problems for those few teams that will be climbing from that side of the mountain.

ExWeb is reporting that over on Annapurna the weather conditions are particularly bad, which is making things rough there at the moment. Edurne Pasaban is en route to Kangchenjunga, and reports beautiful but challenging trekking. She says that that the porters are exhausted, and they need to hire a new team, but there aren’t many available at the moment. On Manaslu, teams have already gone as high as C3, so the process is proceeding according to plan. There is some talk that the first summit bid could begin there as early as this weekend if the weather holds out.

Finally, Andrew Lock announced on his website a few days back that he was unable to obtain a permit to climb Shisha Pangma, and will now head home instead. He hopes to be back in the Fall to give it another go.

* Source :  – http://theadventureblog.blogspot.com/

** See :

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 1. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz. 1. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 2. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz. 2. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 3. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz. 3. /Version english and polish/

- Polish Himalaya Expeditions 2009 part 4. Himalaje 2009 – polskie wyprawy, cz. 4. /Version english and polish/

** zapraszam na relacje z wypraw polskich himalaistów.

zapraszam do subskrypcji mego bloga

They won an ExWeb award for their great 2006 Himalayan Trilogy; last week “The Peters’” Himalayan saga was tragically ended when Piotr Morawski perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri.

In other news: the first climbing permits have reportedly been granted for Everest north side, Annapurna normal route sports a dangerous serac; and a big avalanche buried Manaslu BC.

The repositioning of Inmarsat satellites has caused a lower BGAN aiming angle in Himalaya; a diving scientist reported a record underwater ice-ridge in the Arctic Ocean, and pirates in the Gulf of Aden are facing tougher times ahead.

Polish Piotr Morawski perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri April 8 at 8.40 am local time, while returning from C2. At only 33, Piotr had summited six 8000ers, and made the first winter summit on Shisha Pangma (together with Simone Moro in January, 2005).

Part of Piotr Pustelnik’s Himalayan Trilogy team and teaming up with regular mate Peter Hamor; Piotr Morawski was climbing Dhaulagiri as a preparatory ascent before attempting to open a new route on Manaslu’s west face.

* see : -  Piotr Morawski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

- Dhaulagiri/Manaslu Expedition 2009 part 2 – it’s over. Wyprawa Hamor & Morawski – Dhaulagiri/Manaslu 2009 cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated – part 2# and 3#: Gasherbrum and Broad Peak traverses. /Version english/

- all my post, select category : Piotr Morawski

Everest North side climbing permit granted SummitClimb got news from Lhasa last week that their Everest permit has been approved, Arnold Coster reported.

Serbian Jacimovic back to Everest – North side Serbian Dragan Jacimovic is also launching a commercial expedition on Everest north side this spring. The team this year comprises 18 climbers from ex Yugoslavian republics of Bosnia, Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia, Serbia and from Italy. Should they succeed, the Montenegro flag (the youngest state in the former Yugoslavia) will flap on top of the world.

Everest’s First Ascent team: RMI Guides, Hahn and Viesturs Rainier Mountain Guides have launched an American all-star expedition aiming for Everest south side: The “First Ascent team” led by Peter Whittaker also features Ed Viesturs (14×8000ers w/o 02), Everest multi-summiteer Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot and Seth Waterfall. Accompanying the climbers is a filming crew headed by Gerry Moffatt, with Jake Norton as photographer.

More Americans on Everest Johnny Strange, 17, hopes to become the youngest American to climb Mount Everest (joining Scott Woolums’ expedition), and the youngest 7Summiteer worldwide. American John Golden is climbing Everest from its south side, together with Jon Shea and Phinjo Sherpa. Golden has a transplanted knee, as a result of a football accident back in 2005.

Everest comms and security numbers In order to provide better communications on Everest as well as with lower Khumbu and Kathmandu, the Eco Everest Expedition 2009 will have one base station at Camp 2, one at Base Camp and one in Asian Trekking’s office in Khumjung, Ang Tsering reported. “There will be telephone and internet connectivity. Our frequency this year is: 00 870772223518 OR 00870772223596. I would recommend that all climbers please make a note of this: In case of emergencies on the mountain, we can transfer messages down to Kathmandu rapidly should this be required.” Eco Everest team is led by Apa Sherpa (18 times Everest summiteer).

Two lanes in Khumbu Icefall As last year, there will be two ropes-lines in the Khumbu Icefall; word is that a third line might be established this year as well.

Mondinelli returns – for another Lhotse summit ”I’m leaving again for the Himalayas. I’ll go back to the South Col to check the weather station we installed last year and, if I am still on time, I will try to reach Lhotse’s summit,” reported 14, 8000ers (w/o 02) summiteer Italian Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli.

Annapurna: Valery and Victor have climbed to 5,600 m; so have Nives and Romano; Revol & co reached 6,100m; Libor set C1 at 5,020m, and a Korean team was somewhere in between last week before a bad weather spell forced most mountaineers back to BC on Annapurna. Babanov reported dangerous conditions right above C2 on the normal route, due to a large overhanging serac. His and Victor’s second acclimatization trip will therefore go up the Czech route.

From Greenland to Cho Oyu – authorities permitting Nick Nielsen, a climber from Greenland, arrived Kathmandu last week hoping to get a climbing permit for Cho Oyu.

Korean Oh Eun-sun aiming for 4×8000ers in one year Currently on her way to Kangchenjunga, Korean lady climber Oh Eun-sun hopes to climb all 14×8000ers in a record time. Oh claims nine 8000+ meter summits (Editors Note: the number varies pending source) and she hopes to bag four more this year, according to Korean Chosun paper.

Manaslu 2008 summit cleared by Miss Hawley On Manaslu last fall, several large commercial teams’ summit reports didn’t add up to other climbers’ climbing notes cutting numbers of success down to barely half. Serbian Jacimovic’s team summit (currently enroute to Everest north side) had apparently not been confirmed by Miss Hawley. “Miss Hawley said the Lukla air accident last year had created some confusion, and thus Manaslu summit list was left incomplete,” team member Nina Adjanin, and also a 2008 Manaslu summiteer, stated on the expedition website. “After checking the facts, Jacimovic’s team has their Manaslu summit finally confirmed by Miss Hawley.”

Manaslu: ExWeb interview with Carlos Pauner, “you either win or lose; there are no ties here” He has 8×8000ers summited plus an even larger number of attempts. In 2003, Pauner miraculously survived after being lost for two days lost on Kangchenjunga’s upper slopes. A few years later he barely escaped a chopper-crash on Makalu; and last spring he had another close call – on Lhotse. Yet Carlos Pauner won’t give up in his goal to climb all 14×8000ers. Last week, he set BC on yet another snow-packed 8000er – Manaslu – and answered ExWeb’s Angela Benavides’ call for an interview.

A huge avalanche hit Manaslu’s BC shortly after the interview; burying Carlos Pauner’s, Joao García’s, South Korean and French expeditions’ tents. No injuries are reported.

Makalu West Pillar Alberto Inurrategi & co report heavy rains on their third day trek to Makalu BC; raising questions how the porters will manage to cross the Shipton La pass if it turns out packed with snow.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.

e-mail or call +1 212 966 1928

* Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

Antarctica is closing; and with that all eyes are on Himalaya where two expeditions hope to make history any time now.

Also Aconcagua has more or less folded; following a season deadlier than usual but not without a number of triumphs. Over in Europe, Swiss Ueli Steck broke another classic North face speed record – on Matterhorn in 1 hour 56 minutes from bottom top.

A very hard row around Antarctica has kicked off and there’s also a number of interesting news from Space.

Makalu Some explorers worry little about failing tech; not so Simone Moro. “This is really a disaster, causing big damage our sponsors,” he fumed before at last, the backup modem arrived. Reason for the holdup according to Simone – porters got stuck (read: drunk) for 6 days in Sidua! As for the climb – a two-day trip to Makalu La was on this weekend before the summit push.

Broad Peak They hoped to buy some gas from a military camp. 5-ft snow made the estimated 3-hour trip longer than expected and on arrival the mil camp at Concordia’s glacier junction turned out empty, sending the climbers back to BC empty-handed for another 7 hours. The men shot some footage, directed by Robert – now Robert Vader – as part of their new sci-fi series ‘StarWspin’. Don Bowie also offered a detailed description of why Karakoram winter climbing is worse than Minnesota.

New routes, variations and record speed ascents After soloing the Colton-Macintyre route on the North face of the Grandes Jorasses in 2 hours and 21 minutes on December 28th, Swiss Ueli Steck broke another classic North face speed record January 13th – on Matterhorn. Ueli climbed the Schmidt route (TD/ED, 1100m) in 1 hour 56 minutes from bottom to summit. The Huber Brothers, teaming up with Stefan Siegrist, bagged two new routes at Antartica’s Queen Maud Land. Alex, Thomas and Stephan completed the first climb on Ulvetanna’s West buttress – Sound of silence (6c, A2, 850m, 60º); and the first route opened on Holtanna’s West face, Eiszei (6b, A4, 750m). Also on Holtanna, the team achieved the first free-climbing ascent of Skywalk (6a, 450m), on the peak’s North buttress. From Patagonia, Camilo López and Anna Pfaff report a new variation on Aguja Guillomet. Fitz Roy is next.

The spirit of it all: the Fiend, the Pole, and top ten reasons why high-altitude climbers climb A faded expedition t-shirt from the American 1999 Everest/K2 expedition reminds of a time when climbing was more difficult, but less serious. Read the back print and more from a bygone time.

Popular Re-run & ExWeb correction: ECUADORIAN Santiago Quintero Folks in South America are very proud of their emerging mountaineers. When ExWeb wrote that Santiago Quintero has set off on a crossing of 35 Andes summits in preps for K2 in May; a large number of emails notified us that he is from Ecuador – not Brazil. All the hoopla called for a re-run of an interview ExWeb made with the mountaineer last spring.

Aconcagua 2008/09 Season’s end Chronicle ExWeb’s contributor, Brazilian writer and chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto Peron compiled a season’s end report from Aconcagua – a favorite pre-Everest destination. It’s sobering reading; but not without highlights.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
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** Read these stories – and more! – at ExplorersWeb.com

Posted on October 13, 2008

“Live your dreams. No one can stop you. Time and time again you hear this refrain but it’s the cold truth. Only you can do it so if you want it, make it happen.”

This quote by South Pole skier Kevin Vallely is all the more important in these financial times and probably rings very true with a certain Barack Obama. Tuesday, United States triumphantly elected its first African-American President and change is in the air: in light of pre-election statements mountaineers might want to watch Karakoram, however.

Last week was truly packed at ExplorersWeb. “Critical Skill” kicked off – possibly the coolest training ever offered – and there’s an unusual send-off coming up: Don Pettit is going back to the Space Station and ExWeb got VIP invite.

In other news: more interviews with South Pole skiers, Novo touch down, a number of new lines in Himalaya plus serious traffic jam in Lukla. And finally, “I will always remember Iñaki’s eyes” said Nima Nuru Sherpa, one among the climbers awarded a prestigious medal in Spain last week.

Makalu west face …greeted Steve, Vince and Marko with crossfire of ice. The climbers were considering extending their climbing permit in case the weather improves.

Nuptse: New route on the South face French climbers Patrice Glairon-Rappaz and Stéphane Benoist forged a new route up the South face of Nuptse, alpine style, the French Climbing Federation (FFME) reported. “Patrice and Stéphane climbed the 2,300 meters-long wall up to the summit ridge in a non-stop push, alpine style,” FFME stated. According to the report, the climbers reached the summit ridge on October 28th, after four days on the wall. There is no mention on them proceeding to the 7 861meters’ summit. Stepháne suffered frostbite on the climb, and was airlifted from BC on November 1st.

Fall on Pumori French climber Corinne Favre and her guide suffered a serious accident on Pumori, reported Kairn.com. Sunday November 2, Corinne and her Sherpa guide fell on descent due to a big serac breaking off the wall. The two were found at 5.700 meters and helped down to Gorak Shep at 5.140 meters where they spent the night monitored by friends and a French doctor. Favre seems to have suffered multiple fractures and pulmonary complications. Her overall state was critical and by the time the rescue helicopter arrived on Monday she was unconscious. The mountaineer is currently hospitalized in Kathmandu, no word yet on the state of her guide Sherpa.

Air-traffic jam in Lukla Thick fog kept planes grounded at Lukla airport end last week – leaving trekkers and climbers returning from the Khumbu valley stranded. “There were 1500 people in Lukla, waiting to fly,” IMG reported Thursday.

Mess at Pumori: “We know who you are” Another report has arrived about climbers leaving trash behind, this time on Pumori. “(The mess in BC) has your name on it so we know who you are and we have pictures too!” dispatched Peak Freaks. “You may want to consider reimbursing us for our expenses to clean it up, carry it out and disposal fees.”

Ama Dablam: Weekend summits – and one accident? Alpenglow, IMG, Adventure Consultants reported summits last weekend. Rumors were that there was an accident involving one climber on Ama Dablam Saturday, but this has not been confirmed.

Medals and a toast to Iñaki Ochoa The climbers who risked their lives trying to rescue Iñaki Ochoa de Olza from Annapurna last spring, were awarded the Golden Medal to Sports’ Merits by the local government of Navarra – the Spanish region where Iñaki was born.

“I will always remember Iñaki’s eyes, so transparent,” Nima Nuru Sherpa recalled. “We always treat our costumers as guests, but Iñaki behaved in a different way,” Nima added. “He was just happy in Nepal, felt right at home – and made us feel as equal team members. He was our friend.”

In Seoul, attending the Piolet d’Or Asia ceremony with Boris Dedeshko, rescuer Denis Urubko was unable to attend the Spanish award. To many, the biggest surprise is probably that the Piolet d’Or prize still exists at all. A small team of Japanese climbers are the winners (check in for names and climbing details on RussianClimb.com). Other nominees were Eight women’s Peak (Kazakhstan), Batura II (Korean team) and Meru (Korean team).

Tengkangpoche: Spanish young-guns’ new route on the north face Manuel Córdova, Silvestre Barrientos and Sidharta Gallego climbed up an ice ramp (70º/90º) to the saddle between Tengkangpoche’s and Ramdung’s summits, opening a new, 2300 meters-long route on the north face. The climbers turned back some meters shy from the summit ridge, due to bad ice conditions.

First ascent of Kang Nachugo: debrief and stunning images Alpinists David Gottlieb and Joe Puryear made the first ascent of Kang Nachugo (6,735 m) in the Rolwaling Himal over 5 days alpine style, summiting on October 17. In their well-written debrief, the amazing climb is also illustrated by stunning images.

Kang Guru: too windy Altitude Junkies/Project-Himalaya team was forced back from high camp on Kang Guru due to increasing winds which flattened some tents and made it impossible for the Sherpas to fix ropes on the upper sections. The team hoped to launch a new summit bid as soon as the winds subside.

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They won an ExWeb award for their great 2006 Himalayan Trilogy; last week “The Peters’” Himalayan saga was tragically ended when Piotr Morawski perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri.

In other news: the first climbing permits have reportedly been granted for Everest north side, Annapurna normal route sports a dangerous serac; and a big avalanche buried Manaslu BC.

The repositioning of Inmarsat satellites has caused a lower BGAN aiming angle in Himalaya; a diving scientist reported a record underwater ice-ridge in the Arctic Ocean, and pirates in the Gulf of Aden are facing tougher times ahead.

Polish Piotr Morawski perished in a crevasse on Dhaulagiri April 8 at 8.40 am local time, while returning from C2. At only 33, Piotr had summited six 8000ers, and made the first winter summit on Shisha Pangma (together with Simone Moro in January, 2005).

Part of Piotr Pustelnik’s Himalayan Trilogy team and teaming up with regular mate Peter Hamor; Piotr Morawski was climbing Dhaulagiri as a preparatory ascent before attempting to open a new route on Manaslu’s west face.

* see : -  Piotr Morawski the famous Polish climber. /Version english and polish/

- Dhaulagiri/Manaslu Expedition 2009 part 2 – it’s over. Wyprawa Hamor & Morawski – Dhaulagiri/Manaslu 2009 cz.2. /Version english and polish/

- Breaking news: Piotr Morawski lost on Dhaulagiri. Piotr Morawski zginął na Dhaulagiri. /Version english and polish/

- Himalayan Triptych Reactivated – part 2# and 3#: Gasherbrum and Broad Peak traverses. /Version english/

- all my post, select category : Piotr Morawski

Everest North side climbing permit granted SummitClimb got news from Lhasa last week that their Everest permit has been approved, Arnold Coster reported.

Serbian Jacimovic back to Everest – North side Serbian Dragan Jacimovic is also launching a commercial expedition on Everest north side this spring. The team this year comprises 18 climbers from ex Yugoslavian republics of Bosnia, Montenegro, Croatia, Slovenia, Serbia and from Italy. Should they succeed, the Montenegro flag (the youngest state in the former Yugoslavia) will flap on top of the world.

Everest’s First Ascent team: RMI Guides, Hahn and Viesturs Rainier Mountain Guides have launched an American all-star expedition aiming for Everest south side: The “First Ascent team” led by Peter Whittaker also features Ed Viesturs (14×8000ers w/o 02), Everest multi-summiteer Dave Hahn, Melissa Arnot and Seth Waterfall. Accompanying the climbers is a filming crew headed by Gerry Moffatt, with Jake Norton as photographer.

More Americans on Everest Johnny Strange, 17, hopes to become the youngest American to climb Mount Everest (joining Scott Woolums’ expedition), and the youngest 7Summiteer worldwide. American John Golden is climbing Everest from its south side, together with Jon Shea and Phinjo Sherpa. Golden has a transplanted knee, as a result of a football accident back in 2005.

Everest comms and security numbers In order to provide better communications on Everest as well as with lower Khumbu and Kathmandu, the Eco Everest Expedition 2009 will have one base station at Camp 2, one at Base Camp and one in Asian Trekking’s office in Khumjung, Ang Tsering reported. “There will be telephone and internet connectivity. Our frequency this year is: 00 870772223518 OR 00870772223596. I would recommend that all climbers please make a note of this: In case of emergencies on the mountain, we can transfer messages down to Kathmandu rapidly should this be required.” Eco Everest team is led by Apa Sherpa (18 times Everest summiteer).

Two lanes in Khumbu Icefall As last year, there will be two ropes-lines in the Khumbu Icefall; word is that a third line might be established this year as well.

Mondinelli returns – for another Lhotse summit ”I’m leaving again for the Himalayas. I’ll go back to the South Col to check the weather station we installed last year and, if I am still on time, I will try to reach Lhotse’s summit,” reported 14, 8000ers (w/o 02) summiteer Italian Silvio “Gnaro” Mondinelli.

Annapurna: Valery and Victor have climbed to 5,600 m; so have Nives and Romano; Revol & co reached 6,100m; Libor set C1 at 5,020m, and a Korean team was somewhere in between last week before a bad weather spell forced most mountaineers back to BC on Annapurna. Babanov reported dangerous conditions right above C2 on the normal route, due to a large overhanging serac. His and Victor’s second acclimatization trip will therefore go up the Czech route.

From Greenland to Cho Oyu – authorities permitting Nick Nielsen, a climber from Greenland, arrived Kathmandu last week hoping to get a climbing permit for Cho Oyu.

Korean Oh Eun-sun aiming for 4×8000ers in one year Currently on her way to Kangchenjunga, Korean lady climber Oh Eun-sun hopes to climb all 14×8000ers in a record time. Oh claims nine 8000+ meter summits (Editors Note: the number varies pending source) and she hopes to bag four more this year, according to Korean Chosun paper.

Manaslu 2008 summit cleared by Miss Hawley On Manaslu last fall, several large commercial teams’ summit reports didn’t add up to other climbers’ climbing notes cutting numbers of success down to barely half. Serbian Jacimovic’s team summit (currently enroute to Everest north side) had apparently not been confirmed by Miss Hawley. “Miss Hawley said the Lukla air accident last year had created some confusion, and thus Manaslu summit list was left incomplete,” team member Nina Adjanin, and also a 2008 Manaslu summiteer, stated on the expedition website. “After checking the facts, Jacimovic’s team has their Manaslu summit finally confirmed by Miss Hawley.”

Manaslu: ExWeb interview with Carlos Pauner, “you either win or lose; there are no ties here” He has 8×8000ers summited plus an even larger number of attempts. In 2003, Pauner miraculously survived after being lost for two days lost on Kangchenjunga’s upper slopes. A few years later he barely escaped a chopper-crash on Makalu; and last spring he had another close call – on Lhotse. Yet Carlos Pauner won’t give up in his goal to climb all 14×8000ers. Last week, he set BC on yet another snow-packed 8000er – Manaslu – and answered ExWeb’s Angela Benavides’ call for an interview.

A huge avalanche hit Manaslu’s BC shortly after the interview; burying Carlos Pauner’s, Joao García’s, South Korean and French expeditions’ tents. No injuries are reported.

Makalu West Pillar Alberto Inurrategi & co report heavy rains on their third day trek to Makalu BC; raising questions how the porters will manage to cross the Shipton La pass if it turns out packed with snow.

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Himalaya is filling up with hopeful mountaineers. It was a different story a few months ago, with only four 8000-er winter attempts in Himalaya and Karakoram combined. Two teams truly stuck it out, and last week ExWeb checked in with both for debrief interviews.

In other news; as rare as Himalaya winter climbs; the two full-trip North Pole expeditions are getting a break at last, and no open water yet. Speaking of water; last week ExWeb ran an interview with the only ocean rower alive today to have crossed the Indian Ocean singlehanded.

Bill Burke’s Everest traverse question mark “If things change, and I can obtain North side and traverse permits, my original plan for a single traverse will be right back on track,” reported Bill early last week, in that case going with Bud Allen, from Georgia. As for the change needed; some reports had it that the Tibetan border might let up after this weekend.

“Alberto San Martín, who originally hoped to climb Cho Oyu, was unable to get a climbing permit and thus has joined us on Manaslu instead,” reported Carlos Pauner.

Altitude Junkies: bad economy impact They have a strong team this year, with several members having climbed an 8,000-meter peak before, but a handful had to postpone their Everest and Lhotse climbs last minute, due to concerns about their job security during the present shaky economy, Phil Crampton led Altitude Junkies reported.

No O2 Everest climbs: Nobukazu Kuriki will attempt Everest from its North side, on his own, and without supplementary O2 Japanese contributor Yusuke Hirai told ExplorersWeb. Romanian Alex Gavan sent word he is planning to climb Everest south side without supplementary O2 and so is Norwegian Jarle Traa, also as an independent climber.

Mexicans Yuri and Laura reported from Kathmandu: “Things are not easy here: water supply is scarce and there are power blackouts 16 hours a day – we have a head-lamp at hand all the time.”

Peak Freaks: Lukla airport closed Led by Tim (“Timalaya”) Rippel, team Peak Freaks was stuck Friday after all flights had been cancelled due to high winds and thick fog for two days. “Kathmandu appears to be quiet this year compared to 2008,” the team added.

Lhotse Italian Simone La Terra and Spanish Xavi Arias are two additions for Lhotse.

Minarik, Kopold & Elisabeth Revol on Annapurna Czech Martin Minarik and Slovak Dodo Kopold are already progressing on Annapurna’s south face, together with French Elisabeth Revol. The three are acclimatizing before considering an attempt on the Bonington route, in alpine style, according to Revol.

Kangchenjunga: Polish Kinga Baranowska will attempt Kangchenjunga, as member in K2 Magic Line leader Oscar Cadiach’s Spanish team. In addition to the Spaniards, a Korean team is headed for the peak, led by a Miss Oh, Liz Hawley told Edurne Pasaban.

Winter Makalu debrief interview with Denis Urubko, “we were in the right place at the right time” 

Early morning February 9 phones were jumping at ExWeb: Italian Simone Moro and Kazakh Denis Urubko had summited Makalu at around 2 pm local time. Back in Moscow last week, RussianClimb’s chief Lena Laletina sat down with Denis Urubko for an extensive, 2-part interview about the major climb.

Winter Broad Peak: ExWeb’s interview with Artur Hajzer, “you just have to have much bigger balls in winter” This past winter, Polish veteran climber Artur Hajzer, fellow Robert Szymczak and Canadian Don Bowie fought a prolonged battle against the brutal elements on Broad Peak until finally forced to give up. ExWeb checked in with expedition leader Artur Hajzer for a debrief interview.

* see : – Winter Broad Peak: ExWeb’s interview with Artur Hajzer, “you just have to have much bigger balls in winter”

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Only to reach the foot of their mountains; international climbers are dodging strikes and unrest in several areas of Nepal. Some, facing house-odds worse than a Monte Carlo casino, are still gambling on China’s whimsical politics.

While waiting for the actual climbs to kick off; last week ExWeb ran a couple of cool interviews with selected Basque climbers.

Annapurna: hard to reach mountain After a huge Korean team grabbed almost all men available, Victor and Valery had a hard time trying to find local porters. The motley crew eventually assembled was next held up by local strikes. The two climbers meanwhile bought 400 m of rope to fix an exposed pass, for the porters to cross safely, who however jumped ship already at about 3600 m. Valery and Victor now hope to hire the Korean’s porters, currently on their way to Annapurna BC.

Kangchenjunga: hard to reach mountain Political unrest further caused Nives Meroi and Romano Benet to change their expedition plans: they are going for Annapurna south face instead of the problematic Kangchenjunga region, where their expedition staff and gear was held up by Maoists cadres due to strikes. ”The blockade was established by the Limbuan ethnic group, and they inhabit an area located before Taplejung,” reported Edurne’s expedition outfitter after the strike reportedly was called off.

Basque and Norwegian Kangchenjunga camp-songs Described by the late Iñaki Ochoa as one of the strongest climbers in the world; Jorge Egocheaga is to replace Mikel Zabalza on Edurne Pasaban’s Kangchenjunga expedition after Zabalza decided to join Alberto Iñurrategi and Juan Vallejo on Makalu’s West Pillar. Also headed for Kang but in a separate expedition is leader of the 2004 K2 Magic Line expedition Spanish Oscar Cadiach, climbing together with Alberto Zerain (K2 summit last summer) who might attempt Yalung Kang as well. Norwegians Jon Gangdal and Mattias Karlsson will also attempt Kangchenjunga, with Dawa Tenzing Sherpa, Dawa Chhiri Sherpa and Pasang Sherpa.

Everest: hard to reach north side A huge Indian border police team has been granted a permit to climb Everest from Tibet, although the climbers – some of them hoping to ski down from the summit – are not allowed to use their own comms equipment. “The mountaineers will carry satellite phones since the Chinese Government has not allowed them to carry their own communication equipment, citing security reasons,” Indian Express reported. The Japanese expedition launched by Kanagawa University’s Alpine Club is one of the other few reportedly attempting Everest from Tibet.

Everest north side & Annapurna double jeopardy Czech Libor Uher is headed for Annapurna’s East ridge before Everest’s Hornbein Couloir. Libor’s plans are pending the Chinese authorities though, who now are supposed to open the Nepal-Tibetan border by April 30th. Uher had originally planned to acclimatize on Cho Oyu, but had to switch to Annapurna due to the border closure.

Everest: 7-summits Club going south Seven Summits Club Everest Expedition is finally being launched from the peak’s Nepalese side – a first for Everest north side veteran Alex Abramov.

Manaslu’s 2009 hall of fame Manaslu will sport some big names this spring: a strong Russian team led by Alexey Bolotov and including Eugeny Vinogradsky and Gleb Sokolov is headed for the peak. The expedition is sharing climbing permit with Peter Hamor and Piotr Moravski. The Russians are climbing the normal route, the “Two Peters” will go for a new line on the West face. Italian Mario Merelli and Mario Panzeri are also expected on the peak, with Italian friends. First to reach Manaslu BC and after solving some comms problems, Joao Garcia reported a heavy snow-storm wrapping the mountain late last week.

Mehdi Etemadfar: From Iran to Dhaulagiri Iranian climber and “Snow Leopard” Mehdi Etemadfar is in KTM for his second attempt to summit Dhaulagiri. Climbing in an international expedition on the normal route, Mehdi has previously topped Broad Peak and GI in addition to the Leopards of former Soviet.

Pakistan: Russians scouting on Baltoro for Winter K2 A Russian National team will tackle K2 this winter. The expedition will go from Pakistan instead of the previously eyed Chinese side; RussianClimb’s Lena Laletina told ExWeb. Victor Kozlov and Nickolay Totmjanin are on the Baltoro glacier already to scout the faces and choose a line.

Billi Bierling about the reality in Nepal’s peace process “According to the New York-based Committee to Protect Journalists (CPJ), Nepal ranks eighth in the list of countries where journalists are murdered on a recurring basis,” Billi Bierling reported, adding that an editor of the Nepali Times told her that if local conflicts are not resolved, a war could break out that would be “Bosnia times ten.” The month of February saw a strike every single day in the whole of Nepal, Billie quoted the source concluding, “so, it is all very well that we are supposed to be having a peace process, however, the reality on the ground looks very different.”

Makalu West Pillar: ExWeb interview with Juan Vallejo, “it’s a committed climb, with no room for errors” Juan Vallejo started his Himalayan career with the Al Filo de lo Imposible TV series. 8, 8000er summits later, Juan turned to tougher routes, smaller teams and a lighter style together with another 14×8000ers summiteer; fellow Basque Alberto Iñurrategi. Makalu’s West Pillar is next, in alpine style. ExWeb’s Angela Benavides caught up with Juan in Spain for an interview.

Kangchenjunga – ExWeb interview with Edurne Pasaban: From K2’s ashes into the 14×8000ers front line As a young mountaineer, Basque female climber Edurne Pasaban just wanted to have some fun. K2 changed all that. In 2004, its summit cost Edurne two toes, weeks in hospital, and a year-long depression. Edurne took a deep look inside and came back sharper, wiser and sure of her goal: to become the world’s first female 14×8000ers summiteer. Before her departure Monday for Kangchenjunga, she sat down for a chat with ExplorersWeb.

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The adventure spring season is full throttle around the world. Last week was packed at ExWeb with interviews, announcements of amazing new routes in Himalaya, along with the usual politics on Everest north side.

Enroute to the North Pole; the two polar expeditions have been going well; except for a team of “researchers,” reportedly starving a mere two weeks after hitting the ice. Here goes a quick glimpse of the main news:

Liaño’s Double Everest traverse postponed to 2010 Climbing restrictions in Tibet forced Mexican David Liaño to postpone plans for a double S-N-S Everest traverse, “It’s unclear whether I may be granted a permit to enter Everest’s north side in Tibet,” he said. “Even if I got a permit, I would surely find no ropes and gear on that side on my way down from the summit, since most expeditions have switched to Nepal.”

* more : – David Liaño’s blog

Andrew Lock: Nepal/Tibet border closed ”My plan to climb Mt Shishapangma is still a little uncertain as the border into Tibet is currently closed and there is no clear guidance as to when it may reopen,” Andrew reported from KTM.

Manuel Pizarro: politics in China and increased costs in Nepal “The cost of the visa to enter the country was $30.00 US in 2007 for 90 days; now, it is $100.00 US for 90 days,” reported Pizarro from Nepal. Unable to climb from Tibet as planned; Manuel and his team mate had to request their supplies back from Tibet in order to climb Everest from the south side.

Annapurna: Babanov heading straight for the West face Valery Babanov has changed his climbing plans somewhat; “We are not going to acclimatize on Annapurna South side, but going instead directly to the West face. We’ll set up BC and acclimatize there, hoping to save time and money,” he told ExWeb.

* more : – Valeri Babanov

Czechs for Everest’s Hornbein Couloir and Annapurna double-header K2 summiteer Libor Uher is leading a team of fellow Czech climbers on Everest’s Hornbein Couloir and Annapurna’s East ridge. The team, also comprising Petr Masek, Radim Sliva, Petr Valchar and Ján Behun will set out Monday. Libor Uher was the second Czeck climber to summit K2, a goal he achieved back in 2007 as member in Leopold Sulovsky’s team.

Piotr Morawski & Peter Hamor: Manaslu & Dhaula route details Polish climber Piotr Morawski and Slovak Peter Hamor aim for a new route on Manaslu’s west face. Then the climbers will move to Dhaulagiri, hoping to reach the summit via the Japanese route.

* see  : -  Dhaulagiri/Manaslu Expedition 2009 part 1. Wyprawa Hamor & Morawski – Dhaulagiri/Manaslu 2009 cz.1. /Version english and polish/

One more Spaniard for Manaslu: Carlos Pauner for his 9th 8000er Spanish climber Carlos Pauner is attempting Manaslu this spring. Carlos, with 8, 8000ers summited, is teaming up with Javier Pérez.

* more : – Carlos Pauner

Nick Rice heading for Manaslu Nick Rice is departing US for Manaslu next week. He will climb via the Japanese route without Sherpa or O2 support.

Karakoram summer: FTA for K2 Aussie based Field Touring Alpine will be heading back to K2 in 2009 with a 15 person attempt on the SSE spur (Cesen route). The outfitter lost two clients in Himalaya last fall (on Cho Oyu and Ama Dablam). Although commercial, the K2 climb won’t be fully guided. FTA has climbing permits for Broad Peak and GII as well.

Extreme skier Fredrik Ericsson for K2 in sky-descent trilogy Fredrik, this time with Italian companion Michele Fait, plan to climb and ski K2 this summer. So far no one has made a complete ski descent from the summit. Acclimatization will include an attempt for the first complete ski descent of Laila Peak (6069m). The final K2 attempt will kick-off mid-July.

Adventure Film Festival in Poland: Films wanted Organizers of the XIV Andrzej Zawada Mountain Film Review (festival), taking place on September 18-20th, call for adventure film-makers to send over their productions.

Send your films in DVD standard format (two copies) together with an application form. More info is available at the Festival website.

ExWeb interview with Lance Fox, “I was captured by Everest at a Ronald McDonald home” Attention Everest climbers and trekkers: if you encounter yaks enroute to BC marked with an X on their forehead you’ll know Lance Fox was there. Hooked on the Matrix Trilogy movies (“not sure why, perhaps it is because of the extreme impossibilities that seem so possible?”) and bacon cheeseburger Pizza from Jolly Rogers (not expedition sponsor); the American veterinarian is headed to climb Everest with Himex on March 25 and ExWeb caught up with him for an interview.

Arctic wrap-up: Italian Michele Pontrandolfo is acclimatizing in Resolute Bay, ready to depart to on his solo, unsupported expedition to the 1996 position of the Magnetic North Pole. Better terrain for Tyler and John helped them to gain more miles per day towards the Geographic North Pole. Lonnie’s team reported some appalling pressure ridges enroute to the same goal. John and Tyler reported traveling 6 nautical miles in one day while Lonnie’s team broke the 7 nm barrier. After two weeks on the ice; Pen Hadow, Ann Daniels and Martin Hartley were featured in mainstream media as “global warming researchers” suffering frostbite and starving due to a delay of their resupply.

Cutting edge tech? ExWeb’s popular rerun on Pen Hadow’s North Pole outfit “Explorers are relying on cutting edge technology to map the retreating Arctic ice sheet during a treacherous 1,000km trek to the North Pole,” wrote silicon.com about Pen Hadow’s mega outfit on the Arctic ice. Connecting several Iridiums has been done many times before. Sending video from the Arctic and the North Pole has also been done over Iridium. ExWeb did a rerun on the story, covered last year.

ExWeb interview with Jesper Melin Ganc-Petersen: “We want to see what Peary saw” End of last week two Danish men, Jesper Melin Ganc-Petersen and Erik Jørgensen, embarked on a new route Greenland expedition. Relying on mother’s home-cooked expedition food in the start; the aim is to cross the Icecap from Kangerlussuaq (Sønderstrøm Fjord) to the fjord areas at Independence Fjord in the Northeast and then to film areas that Peary explored on Greenland. The two men plan to cover approximately 3500 km with kites but no resupplies, and to stay 3 to 4 months on Greenland. They started much earlier than the usual ski season and expect to kite in temperatures of –40 to –50°C on the Inland Ice.

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Arctic expeditions are shivering, Babanov announced a very cool new route attempt on Annapurna’s west face, and Simone Moro sounded off.

Yet last week was all about Tibet – with a full story of the 50 years-long battle published at ExplorersWeb by an explorer who was there.

MountEverest.net March 10 special: George Patterson’s inside story about Tibet It read like a spy/war novel; complete with secret top-rank political meetings, betrayal, murder and finally the eradication of an entire culture. Close to ninety years old now, George Patterson became involved with the Tibetan resistance to the invading Chinese Communist army in the winter of 1949. On the 50th anniversary of the Tibetan National Uprising Day, ExplorersWeb ran Patterson’s unique account, remarkably different from China’s official version.

Martin Minarik taking a stand for Tibet Martin Minarik commemorated Tibet’s National Uprising day by flying a Tibetan flag at his house in the Czech Republic. Martin will soon leave for Nepal’s Himalaya, aiming for Annapurna’s south face together with Dodo Kopold.

US’ President and EU’s Parliament take a stand for Tibet As planned by China the Tibetan National Uprising Day (Tuesday) went by quiet, at least for a while. By Thursday Tibetan groups had appealed to the High Commissioner for Human Rights in Geneva, calling for urgent intervention in Tibet by U.N. human rights bodies. US President Barack Obama raised the Tibet issue in a meeting with Chinese Foreign Minister Yang Jiechi in the White House. Lawmakers at EU’s Parliament urged China to renew dialogue on real autonomy for Tibet. China issued a number of denouncing press releases while a representative told Hillary Clinton that the US should “stop meddling in China’s internal affairs [...].”

Jensen tackling Everest again, for Human Rights In cooperation with the UN, Danish Mogens Jensen from Discovery Channel’s “Everest beyond the limit” series will climb Everest south side this year and take with him UN’s declaration of human rights to the summit.

Babanov for Annapurna west face Valery Babanov and Victor Afanasiev plan to go to Annapurna without porters and climb a new route up the west face in alpine style.

Simone & Hervé awarded for Beka Brai Chhok ascent CAI (Italian Alpine Club) awarded Simone Moro and Hervè Barmasse for the first alpine style ascent of Pakistan’s Beka Brai Chhok. The prize, currently in its third edition, was established by the CAI as a tribute to Marco and Sergio Dalla Longa, perished in 2005 and 2007.

Simone Moro about Beka Brakai Chhok and more, “I gently ask for respect” Seems that nothing the Italian does will please parts of the climbing community. Last week Simone’s Beka Brakai Chhok expedition was questioned. “After 29 years of attempts, I honestly thought that now was the time to speak about my historic first winter Makalu summit with Denis Urubko and not to have the surprise to know that someone is accusing me of ‘lying’,” Moro sounded off, presenting Beka Brakai Chhok documentation and asking for some respect already. “After 40 expeditions all over the world in all seasons and in all styles, I think that it is quite clear who I am, how I climb and what I have climbed,” he wrote at ExWeb.

Recent Everest additions are Jason Maehl of Montana with SummitClimb, Scott Woolums’ Adventures International; Lance Fox of Wisconsin; a female Croatian team and German Thomas “Tomsky” Arnold with the Austrian Laserer-alpin team.

British website’s call for fellow Everest climbers British journalist Colin Wallace is calling for UK expeditions headed for Everest this spring, in order to follow their progress on his website “Mount Everest: The British Story.” Please contact Wallace over email, available on the www.everest1953.co.uk site.

Ang Tshering Sherpa writes from Nepal Dawa Steven Sherpa will be leading Eco Everest Expedition 2009. Apa Sherpa, 18 times (World Record) Everest Summiter, is returning as the climbing leader for his 19th summit bid on Mt. Everest. Pertemba Sherpa, who climbed Mt.Everest from three different routes, will be Base Camp manager. Asian Trekking and the Eco Everest Expedition 2009 will once again offer cash incentives to all climbers to bring down any garbage left by previous expeditions. The group is also training Sherpas in climbing, rescues, filming and photography.

Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner update: Gerlinde is going for Lhotse; no Everest double-header is in the works for her though; husband Ralf Dujmovits told ExWeb. “She [Gerlinde] is climbing Lhotse this spring season, after acclimatizing elsewhere, and that’s it.” Further climbing plans will be set only after Lhotse.

Edurne Pasaban update Al Filo announced last year they’ll be focusing on lower peaks but Gerlinde still managed to put together a strong team for her Kangchenjunga climb. She’s back together with Juanito Oiarzabal (22×8000ers summited), and the team also includes Ferran Latorre, Asier Izaguirre, Alex, Jorge, Lluis and Toñin Perezgrueso.

Italian Nives Meroi will attempt Kangchenjunga with husband Romano Benet, and fly in from Italy on March 15th.

Exweb Week-In-Review is sponsored by HumanEdgeTech the world’s premier supplier of expedition technology. Our team helps you find ultra light expedition tech that works globally.
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The list of Himalaya expeditions, published last Sunday, is still being updated, and last week also offered a sneak peak of the upcoming Karakoram season. The North Pole season has kicked off in brutal temperatures and one aborted expedition already.

All eyes are however on Tibet, where Tuesday (March 10), will mark 50 years of the 1959 Tibetan national uprising against China.

Winter Broad Peak: Getting out is not so easy Defeated by relentless stormy weather, the Broad Peak winter expedition left BC and walked for 11 hours down Baltoro Glacier, passing by Concordia and finally setting camp at Gore 2. Don carried 60-70 lb packs often through waist-deep snow with a knee injury.

Everest no O2 status As in previous years, few climbers plan Everest ascents without supplementary oxygen. At this time, the only confirmed are Peruvian Richard Hidalgo, Pemba Dorje Sherpa, British David Tait (climbing with HiMex), and Australian Andrew Lock, who still hopes to attempt the feat from the north side, after climbing Shisha Pangma.

Everest traverse preview As for Everest traverses, Mexican David Liaño planned (tentative of permits) to climb from the south side, traverse to Tibet, and then climb back across the summit a few days later. David has previously summited Everest twice, Cho Oyu and Lhotse. American Bill Burke, 67, hopes to complete a south-north Everest traverse. He has previously attempted the peak twice. Kazakhstan’s National team is aiming for a world’s first: the Lhotse-Everest traverse, considered as one of the main unsolved climbing problems in the Himalayas.

Kangchenjunga: Zerain’s next goal Remember Spaniard Alberto Zerain, who sped-climbed K2 last year and thus avoided the tragedy that followed hours later? The Basque climber had previously also summited Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Hidden Peak and Gasherbrum II. Next is Kangchenjunga, according to El Correo Digital. The expedition kicks off in April.

Makalu: British Roland Hunter is teaming up with Mick Parker for a non-commercial, private expedition to Makalu. Also American Fabrizio Zangrilli will be leading an expedition to Makalu this spring. Before the “Great Black” the American mountain guide is ice-climbing in Colorado.

Karakoram sneak preview of 2009 expeditions Some interesting summer projects in Pakistan were announced last week. Among them Austrian Gerfried Göschl who will lead a strong group for Nanga Parbat and K2.Gerfried hopes to climb a new route on Nanga’s North-West face together with friends Günther Unterberger, Hans Goger and Louis Rousseau. Also K2 will hopefully get a new line; Gerfried, Louis Rousseau and Jorge Egocheaga will give it a shot if conditions allow.

Ladies turn! The 14, 8000ers status of Nives, Gerlinde and Edurne Edurne Pasaban, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner and Nives Meroi are all even with 11×8000ers, closing in on the Big 14 list not yet crowned by a woman. With the upcoming climbing season kicking off, ExWeb’s regular contributor Brazilian writer and chronicler Rodrigo Granzotto Peron compiled an update on the women’s’ plans.

Ryan Waters connecting the world American Ryan Waters is running a cross-cultural and educational Everest project. Ambassadors led by Doug Sandok are traveling to Nepal, in order to trek to BC and donate supplies to kids in the country. The project will provide a school in Kathmandu with computers. “This way, these children in Nepal will be able to talk with kids around the world to share information,” Waters told ExplorersWeb.

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