Mission Codename: Giovanni di Bernardone

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Locate a stellar Black Friday wine by infiltrating Franciscan in Napa Valley’s Oakville region and secure an ample cache of the wine for our well-deserving Operatives.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Franciscan

Wine Subject: 2005 Franciscan Magnificat – Meritage – Napa Valley

Winemaker: Janet Myers

Backgrounder: The Oakville AVA, centrally located in the Napa Valley and adjacent to the famous Rutherford AVA, was established in July, 1993. Oakville is considered one of the most diverse AVA’s in the Napa area.

Franciscan winery, located in the Oakville AVA, has been crafting its distinctive wines with extraordinary care, elegant style and finesse since 1985.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Beautiful deepest garnet and perfect ruby red when swirled in the light. This wine maintains deeply concentrated color through to its edges. With a deeper core and a softly bouncy surface that settles quickly after swirling, this wine exhibits tightly packed skinny legs that take a few moments to emerge before they move very steadily down the glass.

Smell – Deep and aromatic with lush fruits of dark blackberry, dark cherry, dark plum, dark chocolate, fresh sage, subtle black pepper, and soft black tea leaf.

Feel – Velvety smooth, beautifully round, and softly creamy at the front of the palate, then slowly mouth-coating and rich with lush, soft tannins that fade slowly.

Taste – Perfectly balanced light and dark fruit flavors, featuring delicious dark cherry, blackberry, cassis, and plum with emerging flavors of dark chocolate powder, soft spice, soft oak, and a subtle smoky blueberry.

Finish – Dark, fruity, long, and clean that tails off smoothly, while continuing to reveal new flavors as it tapers off over a lengthy amount of time.

Conclusion – We could not have selected a more appealing and more delicious Franciscan wine for today’s Black Friday special. With a gorgeous feel and aromas and flavors that inspire rather than over-power, this delicious wine is a wonderful treat and a food-friendly compliment to your holiday entertaining. Be sure to hold on to a few bottles for yourself! This wine gets a very hearty Wine Spies recommendation!

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Janet Myers

DATE OF BIRTH: 04/64

PLACE OF BIRTH: Centralia, Illinois

WINE EDUCATION: M.S. Enology and Viticulture, University of California, Davis

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: Director of Winemaking, Franciscan Estate and Mount Veeder Winery. Previous experience with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Beaulieu Vineyards, Louis M. Martini Winery, and Robert Mondavi Winery.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: To make wines that are rich, balanced, supple, food-friendly, and show varietal character and place of origin.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Cabernet Sauvignon

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: The chance to make wine with great fruit from many vineyards.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ”It’s all about what’s in the glass. As a winemaker, take the wine very seriously, but don’t take yourself too seriously.”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Janet. We are thrilled to be showing your 2005 Magnificat today. I am in love with the wine! Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Thank you, Agent Red, it’s great to be here and share a bit about the wine.

RED: Was there a specific experience in your life that inspired your love of wine?

WINEMAKER: I was in London, living above a wine shop and getting to taste a lot of great wines, and also working in restaurants serving wine. This got me interested. But while traveling in Italy, where my mom’s parents are from, the vineyards and wineries fascinated me and I became focused on winemaking. The stars lined up, and I realized I could pursue a field that combined agriculture, food, flavors, science, and history.

RED: Where did you learn the most about winemaking?

WINEMAKER: The tools to understand what is going on in the wine were gained from UC Davis, a great foundation. But learning to make wine happens in the winery, you learn by doing, building on the practical knowledge that accumulates with each vintage. When I started out, I did back-to-back harvests in Italy and Australia. Such different approaches, but both made great wine; it was really an eye-opener.

RED: What is your winemaking style or philosophy?

WINEMAKER: To make balanced wines, with vibrancy and complexity, to stay true to the varietal character, and strive to bring the best out of the grapes. Tailor the approach to what the wine needs, use intuition, and don’t try to turn it into something it’s not.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

WINEMAKER: All wines interest me, the range of personality between varietals and styles. Napa Cabs and their depth and complexity are inspiring. Over my career, experiencing different winemakers with different approaches has grounded me.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

WINEMAKER: Just finished my 17th harvest.

RED: That’s impressive. Who do you make wine for?

WINEMAKER: For our consumers, ultimately. The winemaker has a vision of the wine he or she wants to make that will bring out the best potential of the fruit. That said, wine is made to be consumed, so you think about enhancing consumers’ experiences, complementing their meals. I strive to make wines that I love, that people will enjoy, and that respect the tradition and style of the winery.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Napa region so special?

WINEMAKER: A great combination of soil and climate. This is Cabernet spa treatment, with intense, warm summer days to build structure and richness, and cool nights to maintain vibrancy and deep color. No rain between May and October is a major bonus.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

WINEMAKER: Work in a cellar to try it out. Keep an open mind, trust yourself. Be flexible and be prepared for anything!

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

WINEMAKER: Finishing getting the 2009 reds to barrel, which are delicious, and working on the new 2009 Sauvignon Blanc blend and the 08 Cuvee Sauvage Reserve Chardonnay, both of which will bottle after the holidays. There is always something exciting to work on.

RED: You’ll have to keep us covertly informed as to how those are progressing! Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

WINEMAKER: Our Magnificat wine is one of the original Meritage blends. We start with over 200 barrel lots from individual vineyard blocks, and make the best Bordeaux blend of the vintage, building off of our Oakville Estate Vineyard. The blend varies year to year, this one is 73% Cab, and has all five major Bordeaux varietals in it. It is rich and textural, with layers of cassis and mocha.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

WINEMAKER: It’s really versatile and works with many savory dishes: a steak, pork chops, duck, even barbecue. My personal philosophy is that if you like a wine, it will go well with a lot of things.

RED: Perfect, I just picked up a few steaks to enjoy with one of my other bottles! Please share one thing about yourself that few people know.

WINEMAKER: I grew up around my parents’ and grandparents’ fruit orchard operation in Southern Illinois, apples and peaches, which gave me a love of the land and farming. It was a great way to grow up.

RED: What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

WINEMAKER: There isn’t just one, it depends on what we’re eating. We do drink a lot of Sauvignon Blanc, then Chard for richer dishes, Rieslings for Indian and Asian. For a red, Cabernet is the go-to wine by far, but Pinot Noir is a wonderful counterpoint for a completely different experience.

RED: Sound like a good, balanced approach to playing favorites. Tell me, how would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

WINEMAKER: Overall, the most important thing is to drink what you enjoy, and pair it with foods as you see fit. Trust your palate. Try new things, but don’t feel like you have to “move on” or “move up,” it’s ok to stick with your favorites. Don’t let anyone tell you what you should like.

RED: If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

WINEMAKER: There are so many I enjoy, but probably I’d go with a Cabernet or Cab blend.

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

WINEMAKER: Question: Could you talk about your vineyards and what they bring to the wine? Answer: The heart and soul of our red wines comes from our Oakville Estate Vineyard, 240 acres which we’ve been farming for 35 years (ever since Justin Meyer established it as our estate vineyard). Having that continuity helps ensure consistency across vintages. Years ago, Andre Tchelistcheff observed that it was a great place for Bordeaux varietals, and we’ve been doing that ever since. We also have 20 prime Chardonnay acres in Carneros, the Larsen Vineyard, which provides the backbone of our wild-yeast fermented Cuvee Sauvage. I love the firm acidity and vibrancy, which complements a reserve style Chard with the creaminess and richness of barrel fermentation.

RED: Andre is something of a hero of ours. And now, so are you! Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

WINEMAKER: Thanks, it was a pleasure. Enjoy the wine. Cheers!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of Franciscan can be seen in this satellite photo.

重回阿根廷,先去到中部的Mendoza,著名的葡萄酒產區。在香港很少可以喝到阿根廷的紅酒,特別是以葡萄Malbec釀製的葡萄酒更少有,怎可以錯過? 

選擇了和旅程的新朋友一起租單車(25 pesos左右一天),自己去酒莊逐一參觀和品嚐紅酒。事實証明,這是最愉快的體驗,比起跟團去2-3個酒莊,更自由,更爽。你可以直接去租單車的地方,不用透過任何旅舍或代理,單車鋪會給你遊酒莊的地圖…

紅酒在歐美是重要的生活文化一部份,平日晚飯時不時飲用外,節日或特別場合更不可少。因此人人對紅酒都有一定認識,跟亞洲的文化很不一樣…

來自以色列、加拿大、阿拉斯加和義大利的旅舍朋友,我們一起踏單車,一站一站去試酒…

喝紅酒的三個步驟:

首先是視覺

繼而是嗅覺

最後才是品嚐

由於Malbec葡萄比其他常見的Merlot或Cabernet Sauvignon需要更多陽光和更少的水份,在阿根廷得到更好的環境種植,反而在原產地法國,Malbec的產量越來越少。第一次喝Malbec的感覺很好,酒的顏色較深,酒的味道也較重。

來到阿根廷Mendoza,不要錯過來酒莊;更加不要錯過自己踏單車去暢遊,一站接一站,一杯接一杯…

不過要小心回程那一段路程:)

The growing popularity of Malbec, New Zealand Pinot Noir, biodynamic viticulture, citizen wine blogging, waning influence of uber-critic Robert Parker, and $10 wines are just a few of the trends shaping the wine scene of tomorrow.

Another notable trend having an impact, although admittedly small right now, is the growing prominence of social responsibility within the wine industry with an emphasis on fair and equitable treatment of the folks on the very front of the wine life cycle.

One ‘relatively new’ form of social responsibility making it’s way in to the wine industry is Fair Trade.  For those unfamiliar with the concept, Fair Trade products support farmers in emerging/developing nations through ethical treatment, fair prices, environmental stewardship, and community development.  I’ve had Fair Trade coffee, sugar, and chocolate, but never Fair Trade wine, until a few weeks ago…

As I’m roaming around Sam’s Club one Saturday afternoon loading up on food samples, I noticed a huge yellow, star-shaped shelf taker in the wine section touting their ‘new’ Fair Trade wine (new to this area) -  Neu Direction Malbec.

Neu Direction Malbec benefits the local farmers of Viña de la Solidaridad (Vine of Solidarity), an association based on preserving the rich, cultural heritage of the contratista-landowner relationship.  Ten small vineyard owners and nine contratistas make up the association.  The contratistas lives on the land with their families and are paid a percentage of the grape harvest by the vineyard owners.  The association currently owns 200 acres of vineyards with about a third certified organic, with plans to convert more over the coming years.  ~ Organic Wine Trade website

Neu Direction is produced by Bodega Furlotti S.A., from Mendoza, Argentina.  This wine is certified Fair Trade based on standards established by TransFair, the only independent third-party certifier of Fair Trade products in the US.  2008 was the first year of the TransFair certification program.

Neu Direction 2006 Malbec – As a general rule, I try to avoid spending my wine dollars at big box stores, especially at Sam’s Club, but at just $9.99 for this wine, I went for it.  Deep purple in the glass, this wine showed basic dark fruits, licorice and earth.  Mild tannins with flavors of a blueberry, blackberry, and plum pie baked in a wood burning oven.  An ‘ok’ Malbec, reasonably priced, with a great mission!

With just 4.3 million bottles of Fair Trade wine sold, this movement is clearly in its infancy, with a lot of room to grow.

Curious if others have had experience with Fair Trade wines.  If so, leave a comment with your thoughts or any recommendations.

___________________________

Next free tasting is this weekend, Saturday November 28 2-5:30pm in store

Bleasdale Winery Portfolio tasting

The Bleasdale Winery produces wine in Langhorne Creek, South Australia. The Potts family have owned and made wine there for 5 generations. I had the pleasure of meeting Robbie Potts, brand ambassador and brother of the current winemaker, at a wine tasting in September. True salt of the earth character – one could easily visualise a bush hat with corks swinging from it as his normal attire

Planned for the tasting will be the following:

Chardonnay/Riesling blend (white)
Langhorne Crossing Shiraz/Cabernet/Malbec blend (red) – this is a popular wine in our store
Malbec – Although the winery has used Malbec in its blends for some years this is their first single varietal wine produced from this grape. I scored 2 cases out of 28 shipped to BC. Rivals Argentinian Malbecs and at under $20 and well worth trying.
Frank Potts – named after the founder of the winery, its 89% Cabernet Sauvignon 10% Malbec and 1% Petit Verdot/Merlot
Generations Shiraz – this is their icon wine – gorgeous.

All these wines are great value across a spectrum of style and price. Hope we’ll see you Saturday

Coming Up

Malbec Taste-Off on Saturday December 5th, featuring 3 Malbecs (so remember to make notes on the Bleasdale). Two will be from Argentina and one from Cahors in France – the spiritual home of Malbec. We will be sending an eGrapevine reminder next week on this one.

Ecco uno slide show power point molto interessante, steso direttamente dall’INV (Instituto Nacional de Viticoltura)

Superfici vitate in Argentina e numero di vigneti 2005

[continua]

One Hundred Percent Pure Love

Today’s pairing is for the last bottle of Layer Cake Malbec I have. There’s a little more around, but, after tasting it for the first time a year ago, the 100% Malbec from Mendoza is just hitting it’s stride. Let’s put it this way, just the smell alone of roasting chicken is a perfect pairing for what has evolved into a very robust glass of wine, Layer Cake Malbec. So my pairing is one of the land where the wine was borne. A simple roasted chicken with mirepoix top heavy in garlic and rosemary.

Ingredients:
3-5 pound Chicken Whole
4 Spanish Onions
4-6 Heads of Garlic
6-8 Carrots
1 Bunch Rosemary
Sea Salt
Cracked Black Pepper
Olive Oil, a little virgin, but not too pure or it will burn and can be over kill
Unsalted butter

~ Roasting Pan
~ Cutting boards X2 (NEVER PUT RAW CHICKEN ON A SURFACE YOU WILL USE FOR OTHER PREPARATIONS).
~ Mixing bowl, salad bowl or any bowl that has enough room for your cut mirepoix

Preheat your oven to 450F

Technique:

As your oven is heating, you should be able to clean, dress and season your bird. I always start by rinsing off the chicken in ice cold tap water and removing (in the sink the neck and giblets that are in the chicken). Allow to dry for a moment on some paper towels, but, you DO NOT WANT TO PUT YOUR CHICKEN ON YOUR CUTTING BOARD. I typically use one board for the raw chicken and then place in the sink immediately. There is no room for error on this.
To prepare your mirepoix:

~ cut your onions into four wedges
~ cut your carrots into nice size chunks (2 inches long). If the carrots are very big, you may want to cut them in half (length wise) first
~ cut the garlic heads in half

I don’t peel my mirepoix/aromatics; I like the rough side and use the roasted vegetables as a piece of dinner. I prefer to have the skins involved, but that’s up to you.

In bowl, place your cut mirepoix and coat with Olive Oil, season with salt and black pepper and put to the side.

Chicken:

~ Lay breast side up in a roasting pan. (Yes, you can truss your bird, but, I am at home and the chef isn’t watching, so it’s optional)
~ Season the entire bird (including the cavity) with salt and black pepper. Don’t forget the wings…you know you eat those first.

OPTION: In a professional kitchen, I would typically lift the skin covering the breast meat and put a mixture of chopped rosemary and garlic so the fat would carry that flavor throughout the flesh. Today, I am not that professional, so it’s up to you.

~ Once the chicken is seasoned, pour the bowl of mirepoix around the body of the chicken. I like to fill the cavity at this point with a little bit of everything including a few sprigs of my fresh rosemary.

~ Add as much rosemary as you prefer to the mixture; I tend to leave it right on the ’sprig’ as opposed to removing the leaves. It makes it easier to remove at the end and by that time, the rosemary will have done it’s job.

Drizzle olive oil over the entire bird; not too much, she should just shine once you rub it into the flesh.

Place in the oven.

It’s going to take close to an hour for the bird to cook. Typically, I start the oven at 450F to

Crispy skin is the real treat with a roasted chicken

With this type of Fall cuisine, I tend to add two sweet potatoes to the oven while roasting the chicken. You are going to need to have a starch with your meal and honestly, sweet potatoes and yams are nearly a perfect food.

They will do better at the lower temperature so if you chose to crisp your skin at 450 and then reduce the heat, add the potatoes when you turn down the oven. Otherwise the sugars will caramelize and burn in the sweet potatoes. But, once done, you really only have to cut the potato open and scoop onto the plate.

The chicken is done when the skin between the leg and body ‘cracks’ when you pull it or the internal temperature is 165F. It’s protocol to allow any meat to rest before carving, so I would advise allowing the chicken to cool a bit and the juices to disperse while preparing your plates.

Scoop a healthy portion of your yams/sweet potato into the middle of the plate.

Place your favorite roasted mirepoix around the plate as they have been roasted, seasoned and brought to perfection with the drippings from the chicken

Carve slices of chicken breast and place on top of the sweet potato

Serve!

Obbiettivo enologico: vino rosso affinato in barrique fascia premium; Mercati di riferimento: USA, Giappone, Russia, UK e BRD.

Assoluta è la mancanza di una cultura del piccolo risparmio (tassi al 20% ed inflazione selvaggia), impensabile è l’imprenditoria giovanile in un paese tutt’altro che gerontocratico. Non esiste una classe media, ma masse proletarie e subproletarie con rispettivi padroni. Chi potrebbe prestare attenzione alle sorti del terroir ed alla tradizione o alla sua ennesima idealizzazione, perduta per sempre?

Moda o vocazione? Con questi parameti alle aziende mendozine non resta che sperare che la crisi non finisca e che il consumo di carne si mantenga. Vocazione rimane un concetto relativo. Stando così le cose più che affidarsi alle mode, investire in malbec a livello aggregato è come sottoscrivere un’assicurazione sulla vita. Ci si tuffa sui cambiamenti come al solito senza paracadute. La solidità di obbiettivi condivisi, l’omogeneità dell’offerta ma soprattutto i benefici derivanti dalle economie di scala metteranno comunque al riparo dalle fluttuazioni del mercato. Servono costi contenuti e integrazione di reti e servizi. C’è un terroir dalla storia pluricentenaria, un mercato del lavoro con costi da terzo mondo, un amministrazione che antepone la viticoltura a tutto, un fitto intreccio di società, consorzi ed associazioni di valorizzazione pubbliche e private. In una parola c’è Unità. Nella scelta del vitigno come in quella della monocoltura della soia è difficile spostare l’attenzione delle maestranze argentine dalle contingenze momentanee. Queste parlano chiaro: i prezzi cresceranno, le opportunità si moltiplicheranno. I flussi di turisti e lo spazio sulle riviste internazionali aumenteranno, il governo federale sosterrà la maggiore industria del paese per valore delle esportazioni. Anche se concentrata nel 4% del territorio di una provincia marginale. L’Argentina è un Paese capace di reggere i ritmi di crescita di Cina e India quando non impegnato in blocchi agrari (l’ultimo durato 120 gg ha impegnato l’intero settore agropecuario, produzione latteo-casearia compresa), scontri e contese legislative tra centri e periferie, crack finanziari per troppa “disponibilità al dialogo” tra politica e grandi gruppi economici occidentali. Inutile protrarsi nel confronto tra i vari indici economici truccati ad uso e consumo del FMI, principale creditore di questa nuova Argentina. La potenzialità è tutta nella perizia dei lavoratori e nelle loro paghe mai al passo coi prezzi, nelle protezioni contributive per la grande industria e nelle tutele pensionistiche inesistenti per la maggior parte dei lavoratori. Nello zelo di uno Stato sempre pronto a implementare reti tecnologiche e servizi in grado di “acchiappare” l’afflusso di capitali esteri, in un sistema universitario moderno e perfettamente agganciato alle esigenze dell’industria.

[continua]

You Know, There Are Some Excellent Red Wines Coming Out Of Argentina

By Kip Quinlan

So, what do you think of the wine? To be honest, I thought it was a little meek. Passable, but meek. Did you happen to catch what kind it was? Obviously, it’s a cabernet, but I can’t quite put my finger on the vineyard. Wherever it’s from, it’s certainly not the best I’ve had.

If our hosts wanted something nice, they might have done better with something from Argentina. A lot of people don’t know this, but there are some excellent red wines coming out of Argentina right now. Most people don’t think of Argentina as wine country, but you’d be amazed. There’s more to that country than the pampas and gauchos.

If you ask me, Argentine wines are highly undervalued. The Mendoza region is on par with the Simi Valley of California. For whatever reason, the Malbec grape just does really well there. It’s got a really fruity bouquet, but don’t hold that against it. The ‘99 Trapiche Iscay Merlot-Malbec offsets that fruitiness nicely. If you ever have the chance to buy a case, do not pass it up. I read in Wine Spectator that it’s going to be the next hot vintage and will be quite hard to come by soon.

Hold still—I think you have something on your sweater. There. Got it.

This is a great time for wine drinkers. I mean, we have so many options and choices available. And with the world economy in the toilet, there’s no shortage of great wines at great prices. It would be criminal not to take advantage of it.

If you’re interested in trying some Argentine wines, you could come over for a private tasting. I’d be happy to let you sample my stock. After all, my wine cellar’s gotten so full, I could really use some help clearing a little room! Anyway, here’s my card. Call me any time. I’m there all week, except when I’m on the boat.

Counterpoint

I Hate You, I Hate You, I Hate You

By Natalie Tran

Is that right? Are there some excellent wines coming out of Argentina these days? Please, tell me more about Argentine wine. Tell me everything you know. I’m begging you.

God, what a colossal prick.

A lot of people here might enjoy this conversation, but I’m not one of them. Who gives a shit where you get your wine? The way you’re guzzling it, I’d be surprised if you can even taste it. And I’m really impressed by your references to gauchos and the pampas. What a worldly, cultured man you must be to know those two words. Should we have sex here or in one of the upstairs bedrooms?

I hate you, I hate you, I hate you.

If there’s one thing more irritating than wine guys, it’s wine guys with personal-space issues. I can hear you fine: Quit acting like the music’s so loud that you have no choice but to lean in close to my ear.

Do you ever shut up? I wish I lived in your world, where I could spew a nonstop stream of dull facts and think people actually care. If you love the Mendoza region so much, why don’t you move there? No, I’m not going to buy a case of anything, I’m just looking for a graceful way to get away from you. Where do you think you’re putting your hand? Oh my God. He actually just did the invisible-lint thing. I don’t think I’ve had a guy try that one on me since college.

This would be a great time to kick someone in the testicles. I wish I had the assertiveness to say something, but I haven’t even had a chance to open my mouth. I’ve just smiled politely and nodded. Won’t someone please get this guy away from me? Won’t someone please hold a loud conversation about golf or foreign cars that this guy will overhear and want to join? Oh, how I long to hear this man say to me, “Excuse me, but I need to set someone straight about the merits of the new Big Bertha XP-200 titanium driver.”

Thanks so much for your card. I’ll be sure to use it if I ever need a piece of scrap paper.

© Copyright 2009 Onion Inc. All rights reserved.

my first Grange!

While I wasn’t lucky enough to enjoy the wisdom of host Chris Sharpe, working late last night did result in the reward of sampling the heels of the wines from his Ultra Premium Tasting.  If you happen to have $1,100 you need to dispose of, these five wines will do the trick nicely. All are available at Everything Wine and prices listed are current retail.

Quinta do Vale Meao 2005
Douro, Portugal
Touriga Nacional (40%), Touriga Franca (25%), Tinta Roriz (25%)

This wine’s nose is charming and gorgeous, with concentrated ripe red berries, pretty floral notes, earth and tar.  The palate is bright and lush, with red raspberry, sweet cherry and peppery spice. Complex, exotic and hugely appealing, I would gladly drink this wine daily – and with just about any fare. This doesn’t strike me as a wine that would fare well in the cellar, but with luscious fruit like this, who wants to wait anyway? $109.99

~

Achaval Ferrer Finca Mirador 2006
Medrano, Mendoza, Argentina
Malbec (100%)

From a 12 acre vineyard at 2400′ asl harvested to 0.75 tons per acre. The colour and aroma seemed to indicate a wine with some maturity, with it’s slightly brick-hued rim and subtle earth scents.  That illusion was soon shattered, as the palate bursted with bright red and black fruits, fresh and ripe with mouthwatering acidity.  Suprising, but delicious nonetheless.  I’d definitely leave this one in the cellar another half-dozen years. $119.99

~

Numanthia Termanthia 2005
Toro, Spain
Tinto de Toro (100%)

From an 11 acre plot, 2600 feet above sea level, planted with 100+ year old ungrafted vines, the yields were well under 1 ton of fruit per acre. The wine was barrel fermented and received the ‘200% new oak’ treatment for 20 months before being bottled unfined and unfiltered. It is big, tannic and extremely ageworthy. ~ erobertparker.com

A wonderfully complex nose, with layers of black cherry, sweet cassis, blackberry, caramel, licorice, mineral, toast and tar.  I went back two or three times to take it all in before taking a sip.  When I did, I received a powerul mouthful of rich black fruits, baking spices and a mess of fine tannins. Structured enough for a decade or more of cellaring, but a wonderfully unique and enjoyable wine now. Maybe the best Tempranillo I have tasted. Fantastic. $259.99

~

Shafer Hillside Select 2004
Stags Leap District, Napa Valley, California
Cabernet Sauvignon (100%)

Incredibly rich, from the sweet cassis and vanilla-oak nose to the silky mouthfeel and super-long and textured finish.  The Hillside exhibits opulent black cherry, chocolate, graphite and oak.  32 months in 100% new French oak lends a silky, sexy, layered palate and a flawless finish. This wine is beautifully intense – one of the most pleasurable sips I’ve had in a long, long while. $325.99

~

Penfolds Grange Bin 95 2004
South Australia
Shiraz (96%), Cabernet Sauvignon (4%)

…grown to very special vineyards in the Barossa and McLaren Vale, with a component from the distinguished Magill Estate site in the Adealide Hills. Grange remains as Australia’s most famous wine, a peerless wine of historical significance, officially listed as a Heritage Icon of South Australia. Above-average winter rainfall led into a promising vintage, characterised by mild conditions up until February, followed by warmer weather conditions throughout March and April. Penfolds South Australian vineyards fared well, producing wines of elegance and intensity. Matured for sixteen months in exclusively new American oak hogsheads. Alcohol 14.3% ~ PenfoldsGrangeForSale.com

My first Grange!  Tauted as one of the greatest vintages of Australia’s most prestigious wine, the 2004 Grange might never have had a chance at living up to its $600AUD pre-release price. Concentrated ripe black fruits, cherry cola, smoked meat. The palate is very concentrated, but still bright.  I expected more – more tannin, more acid, more fruit, more alcohol.  But this wine is not for drinking now – it is all about 10 years from now. $424.99

One Hundred Percent Pure Love

Today’s pairing is for the last bottle of Layer Cake Malbec I have. There’s a little more around, but, after tasting it for the first time a year ago, the 100% Malbec from Mendoza is just hitting it’s stride. Let’s put it this way, just the smell alone of roasting chicken is a perfect pairing for what has evolved into a very robust glass of wine, Layer Cake Malbec. So my pairing is one of the land where the wine was borne. A simple roasted chicken with mirepoix top heavy in garlic and rosemary.

Ingredients:
3-5 pound Chicken Whole
4 Spanish Onions
4-6 Heads of Garlic
6-8 Carrots
1 Bunch Rosemary
Sea Salt
Cracked Black Pepper
Olive Oil, a little virgin, but not too pure or it will burn and can be over kill
Unsalted butter

~ Roasting Pan
~ Cutting boards X2 (NEVER PUT RAW CHICKEN ON A SURFACE YOU WILL USE FOR OTHER PREPARATIONS).
~ Mixing bowl, salad bowl or any bowl that has enough room for your cut mirepoix

Preheat your oven to 450F

Technique:

As your oven is heating, you should be able to clean, dress and season your bird. I always start by rinsing off the chicken in ice cold tap water and removing (in the sink the neck and giblets that are in the chicken). Allow to dry for a moment on some paper towels, but, you DO NOT WANT TO PUT YOUR CHICKEN ON YOUR CUTTING BOARD. I typically use one board for the raw chicken and then place in the sink immediately. There is no room for error on this.
To prepare your mirepoix:

~ cut your onions into four wedges
~ cut your carrots into nice size chunks (2 inches long). If the carrots are very big, you may want to cut them in half (length wise) first
~ cut the garlic heads in half

I don’t peel my mirepoix/aromatics; I like the rough side and use the roasted vegetables as a piece of dinner. I prefer to have the skins involved, but that’s up to you.

In bowl, place your cut mirepoix and coat with Olive Oil, season with salt and black pepper and put to the side.

Chicken:

~ Lay breast side up in a roasting pan. (Yes, you can truss your bird, but, I am at home and the chef isn’t watching, so it’s optional)
~ Season the entire bird (including the cavity) with salt and black pepper. Don’t forget the wings…you know you eat those first.

OPTION: In a professional kitchen, I would typically lift the skin covering the breast meat and put a mixture of chopped rosemary and garlic so the fat would carry that flavor throughout the flesh. Today, I am not that professional, so it’s up to you.

~ Once the chicken is seasoned, pour the bowl of mirepoix around the body of the chicken. I like to fill the cavity at this point with a little bit of everything including a few sprigs of my fresh rosemary.

~ Add as much rosemary as you prefer to the mixture; I tend to leave it right on the ’sprig’ as opposed to removing the leaves. It makes it easier to remove at the end and by that time, the rosemary will have done it’s job.

Drizzle olive oil over the entire bird; not too much, she should just shine once you rub it into the flesh.

Place in the oven.

It’s going to take close to an hour for the bird to cook. Typically, I start the oven at 450F to

Crispy skin is the real treat with a roasted chicken

With this type of Fall cuisine, I tend to add two sweet potatoes to the oven while roasting the chicken. You are going to need to have a starch with your meal and honestly, sweet potatoes and yams are nearly a perfect food.

They will do better at the lower temperature so if you chose to crisp your skin at 450 and then reduce the heat, add the potatoes when you turn down the oven. Otherwise the sugars will caramelize and burn in the sweet potatoes. But, once done, you really only have to cut the potato open and scoop onto the plate.

The chicken is done when the skin between the leg and body ‘cracks’ when you pull it or the internal temperature is 165F. It’s protocol to allow any meat to rest before carving, so I would advise allowing the chicken to cool a bit and the juices to disperse while preparing your plates.

Scoop a healthy portion of your yams/sweet potato into the middle of the plate.

Place your favorite roasted mirepoix around the plate as they have been roasted, seasoned and brought to perfection with the drippings from the chicken

Carve slices of chicken breast and place on top of the sweet potato

Serve!

It is the middle of the work week and we both have been working hard at our jobs. I worked even later than usual tonight and my drive home was so dark. It’s that time of the year when I go to work in the dark and come home in the dark.

So, for dinner tonight, I am making a very plain, but comforting, meal of goulash and green beans. I will also serve sliced, fresh pineapple as a side.

For our wine tonight, we are having this wonderful Argentinian Malbec. It is delicious. The nose is a mix of fresh pine and cloves. The taste is in-your-face plums and the finish is strong licorice. We are enjoying this wine very much. Our dog, Trigger, is cuddled on the chair next to me. She has noticed the change in the weather and wants to be next to me any time I am home. . .it is so nice!

Hace un par de noches, en oportunidad de una carne al horno que preparo mi esposa, decidi revisar en mi cava a ver con que me podia encontrar para acompañar una deliciosa carne.

Para m grata sorpresa me encontre con dos botellas de un Malbec-Petit Verdot espectacular que tuve oportunidad de comprar alla por diciembre de 2006 cuando aun pertenecia a uno de los mas prestigiosos Clubes de Vinos que hay en la Argentina. En ese momento recorde que cuando compre esta caja me gusto tanto que decidí guardar un par de botellas para mas adelante para ver como evolucionaba.

Aca estaban las dos botellas, cubiertas de polvo y tiempo, esperando y evolucionando pacientemente hasta que decidiera abrirlas y disfrutar de todo su potencial. Ese dia habia llegado.

Aca estaba yo frente a mi Malbec-Petit Verdot, cosecha 2005, de Bodegas Mauricio Lorca, oriundo de la zona de Vista Flores, Valle de Uco, Mendoza, con sus 14,5° de Alcohol, crianza en barricas de 9 meses y un potencial de guarda de unos 4 o 5 años.  Como es propio para un vino de estas caracteristicas, fue trasvasado y dejado reposar por unos 30 minutos.

En vista me encontre con un vino brillante, limpido, de una intensidad media y un color rojo rubi con notas rosadas, amarronadas y claros signos de evolucion; lagrimas de velocidad y formacion media a media alta, producto de los 14,5° de alcohol.

Al olfato nos encontramos con un vino sumamente complejo, con una nariz de intensidad media y aromas frutales mezclado con aromas de oxidacion y a sotano, producto de su guarda.  En una nariz mas profunda encontramos aromas a frutos rojos como cerezas, ciruelas pasas y frutas en compota, como asi tambien aromas a cuero y alguna nota mineral.

Por ultimo, en la boca nos encontramos con un vino de ataque suave, una acidez correcta, un amargo levemente presente, con unos taninos redondos y bien maduros, un peso de boca medio, una intensidad de sabor media a media baja (aca creo esta la falencia del vino), en el largo de boca encontramos un vino medio y con un final frutado pero de baja intensidad.

A modo de resumen les puedo decir que estamos en presencia de un vino amable y docil, facil de tomar, con una vista y aromas muy buenos, pero en boca no se mantienen los aromas de la nariz y los sabores parecen haber desaparecido. Encontre tambien una leve nota metalica en la boca y, segun un humilde servidor, el vino ya entro en su periodo de decadencia.

Con esto quiero decirles que revisen todos los vinos de su cava, estudien detenidamente el potencial de guarda de cada uno de ellos y no esperen hasta el ultimo momento pensando en que va a ser el mejor porque a veces podemos cometer errores en nuestras estimaciones de guarda e incluso, las etiquetas que dicen expresamente el potencial de guarda tambien pueden estar sobreestimando el vino y resulta que despues de tanto guardar un vino, no lo abrimos en su mejor momento.

Esto amigos mios, es parte del maravilloso mundo de los vinos y su guarda, asique revisen sus cavas y si alguno de sus tesoros estan para ser tomados …. a disfrutarlos !!!

What a pretty hand painted wine glass my wife has!

Here is a lovely shot of dinner at home (about a week ago – November 6th, I believe).  Everything grilled to perfection despite my skill with an open flame and wine to boot!

The evening fare included bell peppers (red, yellow and green) and green beans with salt, pepper and olive oil (plus Herbes de Provence for les beans verts). Mushrooms with butter and seasoned salt (from back home – Texas) and fresh tomatoes, sliced.  One package of choice beef tenderloin from Costco, dusted with the Texas salt and pepper, completed Friday’s supper menu. Oh, and onions! I must not forget the scallions and sliced red onions.

For some reason though, the women in the family prefer white wine and eschew the conventional wisdom to pair beef with a good bold red.  So I opened a bottle of Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling (from Washington state), circa 2008 ($6.47 @ Total Wine & More) for them.  Alas, it matters not as they still enjoyed the meal.

I poured myself a glass of Malbec (Maipe 2008, $7.49 @ Costco) and proceeded to carve up my tenderloin (cooked “medium”, BTW, indeed).  In between the first and second glasses and with the meal about half way consumed, we went to work on our respective tasting sheets.

The riesling was pale but pretty, somewhat fragrant with a fruity taste (mostly apple, pear, peach with some grapefruit) with between mild and medium acidity and “harmoniously” balanced (yes, that is a characteristic on the sheet).  A nice white wine that was delicious (“yum” was jotted down, no less).  They emptied the bottle.

I do not know what goes on deep in Argentina and the Andean culture, but they make a heck of a wine!  ”Maipe” was shouted late into the night by tribal lords during celebration.  Maipe was the name of the guy who served the wine.  He earned the nickname of “Lord of the Winds” for the speed with which he scurried from table to table filling goblets.  His motivation was simple, keep the lords full of wine and keep his head attached to his shoulders. Or so it says on the bottle (if you read between the lines and have had plenty of Maipe, apparently).

The malbec was a dark and murky plum color that was nicely fragrant of fruit and spices.  Semi-sweet with moderate acidity. The finish was easy with sexy legs (also an attribute on the sheet).  I could taste mostly cherry, plum, spice and dirt (earth, rather). A delicious companion for grilled steak at home.

After dinner, we were talking and munching on some dark chocolate cherries from Trader Joe’s and dark chocolate espresso beans from Starbuck’s.  There was plenty of Maipe left, as I was the only one drinking it, so I talked my daughter into trying the “red” wine with the chocolate.  Ooh la la.  She can now relate to the wine/food pairing paradigm as the wine went well with the espresso beans, but not very well with the cherries (too sweet).

It was a great start to the weekend.  A very nice dinner with good wines.  Neither of which would break the bank.

Riesling:    Malbec:     

 Another rainy Saturday night and another very good dining experience. I had made reservations for 6 at Anthony’s in Haddon Heights, NJ at 8:00 P.M. Late that afternoon, Jerry and Sue C. returned from their trip to Ireland, and what with Ireland not being the culinary capital of Europe, they were in the mood for a great meal so they decided to join us. Anthony’s was kind enough to add two more seats and after a short wait in the lobby, where our group paged through the latest copy of Hitzel’s Restaurant Magazine, we were guided to their upstairs dining room where we had an entire room to ourselves. Wines were opened and poured and Jerry showed pictures from his trip on his Ipod Touch while we scanned the menu and caught up on the latest news. Our server brought baskets of warm bread, butter, a dish of oil, and two plates of roasted veggies which we enjoyed while considering our selections. My wine for the evening was a Malbec from Patagonia, an area in the far south of Argentina, where the temperatures are far cooler. There is an interesting story behind this wine. I had received an e-mail from Moore Brothers in Pennsauken about ten days ago. They were singing the praises of this particular wine Patagonia Malbec Barrel Selection Fabre Montmayou 2007. 

Their write-up on the wine made it tempting enough for me to decide to take a ride up to their store and grab a couple of bottles. Coincidently, the very next day I was at Monster Beverage in Glassboro and their it was, the very same wine for just 50 cents more than the price at Moore Brothers. It even had the familiar “Fleet Street Shipped at 56 degrees” which I thought was sort of a Moore Brothers trademark. Anyway, I was, and continue to be, puzzled as to how this wine which I thought was exclusive to Moore Bros. ended up on the shelves of Monster Beverage.  The wine, however, was worthy of all the praise. At $13.00 this is an excellent QPR delivering tons of flavor. I am making a note to try and get back to Monster for a couple more bottles before it is gone so, if you are reading this, pay no attention and please, stay away from Monster Beverage for the next few days. Thank You.

Meanwhile, back at Anthony’s, in between spoonfuls of a delicious crab bisque, I am outlining plans for a trip next year to Napa Valley. Everyone seems interested and I am looking forward to it like a muslim would to a pilgrimage to Mecca. Now the entrees are arriving and I have taken my friend, Tom T.’s advice and ordered the selection which bears his name, the Crab Tomasso. It turned out to be an excellent recommendation as the dish was first class. It featured jumbo lump crabmeat sauteed with basil and garlic, fresh tomatoes and tossed capellinni in a blush sauce. The portion was large enough that I thought I might be taking some home but I kept going and before long my dish was clean. I guess I could have taken the purple orchid home but I wasn’t sure what kind of wine went with orchids so I left it on the plate.

Some of the other selections that my dining partners chose were: from left to right,  Jerry’s veal chop served over risotto which he referred to as a cheesesteak risotto. He offered me a taste and it really was good. Joe B. and my wife, Kathy both had one of the seafood specials of the evening, the baked grouper. I heard no complaints from either one of them. Sue C. had the lamb, pine nut-crusted in a thyme and  port reduction sauce with Yukon mash potatoes. The final entree was Barbara T.’s Wild Mushroom Ravioli. She said the sauce was wonderful and despite the fact that I am an avid mushroom avoider, I sampled hers and have to confess that it was very good. As with the other there was nothing but the flower left on her plate and as we continued the conversation we ordered a couple of desserts to pass around. There was a round chocolate cake that was delicious and others shared a warm apple cinammon concoction with blackberry sorbet. Just before the check was presented, our waiter surprised us with a home-made concoction he refered to as Chococello, a very unique imitation of the lemoncello that so many local Italian restaurants serve as a perfect ending to the meal. This chococello was a big hit and although we all would have liked to have more, it isn’t available in any stores that we know of as it is simply a drink made and bottled by the owner.

Anthony’s bills itself as “creative Italian cuisine” and our dinner certainly lived up to its billing. I’m certain there will be future visits scheduled for this restaurant. All of us were pleased with the entire dining experience.

This wine has a synthetic cork and is a disappointment as it has an affect on the wine.  This wine exhibits roasted blueberry, field mushroom, chocolate, pepper and nutmeg and ground clove.

***

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I am in the process of building and stocking a wine bar in Southern Vermont and there was no question that this wine was going to be showcased. I have paid $22 for this bottle in the past, and found it online at Rye Brook W&S for $15.

This is huge.

And, there were 11 bottles left last time I checked……………….

Click here for my full review.

Thanksgiving is right around the corner and, like most of you, right now my mind turns to menus and wines. This week a few friends and I did a small wine tasting together and there was a clear winner: Punto Final Malbec by Bodega Renacer from Argentina.

So, why was this the winner? It was a combination of taste, body and, of course, price. The wine that we had was the “classico”, comes in a sleek black bottle with a black label and orange accents– it will look nice on the Thanksgiving table. The most important thing to remember about this wine: let it breath. It really opened up after sitting for a bit of time.

What does it taste like? This is a nice robust wine (if you like Cabs you will probably like this) with plum, black berry, and black cherry melding with deep smoky notes and pepper. Robust in the mouth with firm tannins this wine has almost a velvety texture that makes it a pleasure to drink.

The best part about this wine? It can be purchased at Costco! I believe it was about 12$, a great price, and it is easy to find and very accessible for a wide variety of people.

JUDAS un vino tinto argentino de la Bodega SOTTANO , es el mejor vino del mundo para acompañar el Pato Laqueado, plato emblemático de la gastronomía china, según un jurado asiático que lo distinguió en el marco de la Feria Internacional de Vinos y Bebidas Alcohólicas de Hong Kong, que se realizó entre el 3 y 6 de noviembre.

Judas fue laureado por el jurado de la Competición Internacional de vinos que se realiza en esta feria, siendo elegido entre 1.289 vinos de 23 países, incluyendo China. Otros 37 vinos argentinos fueron distinguidos por los jueces asiáticos, así como 18 chilenos.

El Malbec JUDAS es un vino de un rojo intenso, brillante con tintes negros en su color, gran intensidad aromática y complejidad, predominio de notas a guindas, especies, tabaco cassis, pimienta blanca, clavo de olor, también algo de chocolate y menta.
De gran estructura, marcada acidez, amplio en boca con taninos dulces y aterciopelados en un buen balance con el aporte de la madera. Dueño de una extraordinaria intensidad aromática y un gran volumen en boca acompañado de un largo final que lo hace único en su estilo.

http://www.bodegasottano.com/

JUDAS, un vin rouge argentin de la cave SOTTANO de Mendoza est le meilleur vin du monde conseillé pour le Canard Laqué, plat emblématique de la gastronomie chinoise, d’après le jury asiatique de la Foire Internationale de Vins et Spiritueux qui a eu lieu du 3 au 6 novembre.

‘Judas’ a été choisi parmi 1288 vins de 23 pays dont la Chine. D’autres 37 vins argentins et 18 chiliens ont remporté des prix

Le Malbec JUDAS est un vin d’un rouge intense aux colorations noires, brillant  et à grande intensité arômatique. Sa saveur renvoit à une combinaison de  prunes, épices, tabac, cassis, poivre blanc, clou de girofle ainsi que chocolat et mente.

http://www.bodegasottano.com/

Alma Negra, Mendoza, Argentina, 2006

Alma Negra, literally “dark soul,” pays tribute to the various expressions of beauty within each of us, and within each wine, winemaker and terroir. This wine is a result of the collaboration between Ernesto Catena and Alex Bartholomaus.

The 2006 is a blend of 70% Malbec, 20% Bonarda and 10% Cabernet Franc. The grapes are sourced from the following vineyards: Altamira (60%), Rivadavia (20%), La Consulta (10%) and Gualtallary (10%).

Technicalities in mind, I’m ready to taste!

Aromatics: A little closed at first, but giving it some time to open up reveals beautiful dried fruit, plum, blackberry, cocoa, and a litle prune and chalk.

On the Palate: Tight at first, but after 5 minutes this wine shows the same dried fruit, blackberry and tight, well-integrated chalky tannins.

Drink 2010 – 2017. 90 Points. Retail $20.

Give this wine a try…what do you think?

Ok, let’s face it: A shiny morning doesn’t mean that our beautiful Vancouver fall is holding on. Mostly days are turning gray, cold and miserable. And it is for that reason that while I decipher my wine notes from the last IVSA, a pot of Osso Bucco -Peruvian version- is simmering on the stove, flooding my kitchen with aromas of beef ribs, porcini mushroom and melting celery. While I seep and write I keep an eye on it, you know, cooking is a serious matter for a wineaddicto like me.

The wine I have in mind for this Peruvian stew  (Estofado) is the Poggio al Lupo IGT Toscana, brought to Vancouver by Liquid Art Fine Wines. This fine, big wine is made by Tenuta Sette Ponti, the very creators of proved success stories, like the delicious Crognolo. The Poggio al Lupo is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Alicante and a dash of Petit Verdot. The latter two are responsible for the deep coloring of this remarkable Tuscan broth and for its reverberate-on-the-palate tannic charge too. Piquant fruit on the nose, aggressive almost to a fault –but stopping just shy of- and with black fruit and herbal flavors that have a hint of bitterness, in the right sense. This makes for a challenging drink and for a great companion to a dish like the one I have on the slow cooker or for Osso Bucco, game or mature cheeses. In the vicinity of 70 dollars, this is a wine to look for. 91 points Wine Spectator 2007, 2008.

Wine Rhapsody treats British Columbians with the Chateau La Moutete, a red blend from Provence. The Rouge Vielles Vignes 2005 is a typical southern blend of Carignan, Grenache Syrah and Mourvedre. Medium bodied and straightforward in its simplicity, it will accompany duck or red meats with alacrity at c. 30 dollars. More impressive, albeit a lot pricier (7o dollars), the Marchesi di Barolo Cannubi 2001 is a big wine from Piedmont. A floral whiff precedes a full, dry, serious body that delivers all the textural –tannic- load of the properly vinified Nebbiolo grape. Braised meats like beef, lamb or game should allow the full appreciation of this biggie.

Stepping down a bit from the previous big Italian, I tasted the Sgubin Schioppettino, courtesy of Burrows, Luongo & Associates. This a red that deserves a lot more of the Vancouverite wine lover’s attention. The varietal is another incarnation of the better known Refosk grape, a local specialty which is adored in Northern Italy and Slovenia (where it is called Teran) but apparently nowhere else. Simple, rustic and tannic, it does have its charm, and having the chance of choosing a wine to have with roasted boar (ok, yes, it was road kill) I would go for this inexpensive food friendly red. 20-23 dollars. Burrows & Luongo also brings Australian wines. They showcased their Serafino line from McLaren Vale. At 26 dollars and 14.5% alcohol, both the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Shiraz represent good value. I enjoyed the Cab Sauv particularly, with its well integrated oak, juicy fruit and fine tannins.

Natalia Samborski from Select Wines walked me through some of their products. The 2008 Little Yering Pinot Noir comes to mind as excellent value. At 14.99 this Pinot from Yarra had a decent level of structure and a solid, savoury finish. The Villa Saletta 2005 Chiave (key) was the surprise novelty at this table and kept us chatting about it for a while. A blend of Cabernet, Sangiovese and Caladoc, this 16 dollar wine is light, simple and carries ticklish tannins, making the perfect complement to lighter fare. The 2004 Faustino V Rioja doesn’t need introductions and once again, impressed with its burly, intoxicating nose and stewed fruit loaded body. One of the best Riojas to be found at this price. My visit to this booth ended with the Trivento Golden Reserve Malbec 2006. Delivering the typical Mendoza’s Malbec style, this concentrated broth will be serious competition to the likes of Pascual Toso Reserva.

I will continue with the rest of the reds in my next post.

Salud!

La moda della California, come la moda del parral [1] ai suoi tempi, stravolgerà l’aspetto della campagne e delle cantine. Gli argentini aderiranno al nuovo spirito come ad un muss sein [2], un dover essere aprioristico e senza spazzi di discussione. Il passaggio sarà gestito dai leader con la solita profusione di parole chiave e sguardi in camera. Il cambiamento sarà ovviamente “poblàr” [3] e coinvolgerà le piazze. I telegiornali proporranno immagini di futuri di tecnologia e progresso. La carta stampata chioserà con la consapevolezza critica di chi affronta l’ineluttabile. I professori nelle università disamineranno i perché alla luce delle lavagne luminose. Se ne parlerà nei ristoranti tra amici e sul lavoro coi sottoposti.

Tradimento? La poetica del terroir come incontro tra storia e luogo non trova nella pragmatica del fincadero [4] argentino terreno fertile.

Fedeli al mercato e alle sue mode i mendozini non proveranno rimorsi nel mettere in soffitta tutte le proprie cose e ricominciare da zero una nuova avventura. Ecco dunque le nuove direttive di produzione distribuite dai responsabili marketing agli agronomi e da questi ai fornitori  o agli operai agricoli. Come un organismo solidale.

Al fantasma del turista-gringo [5] le leve produttive. Vino rosso/asado/tango [6], servizio all-inclusive. I mendozini, che tra l’altro il tango non l’hanno mai sentito fino all’avvento della radio, hanno inteso il terroir come concetto metafisico. Lasciano che il termine sia spalmato sulle brochures e non si crucciano nel vedere il prodotto asservito alle mutevoli esigenze di quest’assenza.

Chi parla di terroir in Argentina sono gli enologi di grido, sempre col sorriso cinico di chi cavalca una moda. Di chi sa di gestire semplicemente il valore aggiunto di un’etichetta.

[continua]

You don’t need an image on this one, because I am not going to recommend you buy it.  I opened this bottle last night.  The 2008 La Finca Malbec  is one of those cheap wines you can find at Trader Joe’s.  I enjoy Malbecs, so I thought why not – I can’t keep up with drinking the $40 bottles all the time anyways. I used to drink cheap wines all the time so I thought  it wouldn’t be a problem to go right back to it.

Wrong-O! Now I know why there are price differences in wine.  I have been drinking a lot of reserves and a lot from our stash we brought home from Paso Robles.   I guess I have been spoiled.  This wine was alright, but not exciting at all.  It really did taste just like a cheap bottle of wine.  The clear observance of this is that Steve and I didn’t even finish the bottle – we came close – but didn’t feel like finishing it – and that just doesn’t happen folks!  I am going to research from now on before i just go and pick a cheap bottle from TJs again

1.5 – 2 stars

Meu guru particular tem sempre uma maneira peculiar de surpreender. Estamos nos divertindo e jogando conversa fora quando aparece uma garrafa deste argentino, Malbec, safra 2006, a 14%, da região de Luján de Cuyo, Mendoza. Este vinho é sensacional, perfumado fortemente de frutas, saboroso, cheio de personalidade, ficando cada vez melhor ao se completar a taça. Merece destaque neste blog pela apresentação primorosa da bebida. Mais uma vez obrigado pela dedicação nobre guru. O blog agradece tanto quanto nossos sentidos!! Viva Jorge!! Saúde e Paz !!

Publicado pelo Wordmobi

Fa sorridere il leggere nei commenti alle statistiche argentine l’espressione “potenziale produttivo inespresso”.  Sentir parlare gli osservatori internazionali di modernizzazione necessaria fa sorridere chi questo paese l’ha vissuto.

Oggi il viaggiatore occidentale troverà come zoccolo di queste statistiche una società destinata a scomparire. Il tramonto di cultura fondata su consuetudini e modi di fare “criollos” [1] oramai confinata alle campagne periferiche. Le fasi finali di una società sopravissuta all’industrializzazione nelle sue superstizioni e riti ancestrali. Meticcia, con livelli di scolarizzazione da ‘800 italiano e caratterizzata da mobilità orizzontale e verticale inesistenti. Una società dove il Cattolicesimo si fonde con devozioni popolari extra-Cristiane come la martire di Correa o il Gaucito Gil.

Il malbec, prodotto più fortunato di questo ambiente, è oggi proposto dalle classifiche di winespectator come uno dei fenomeni più promettenti dell’enologia mondiale. Un vitigno selezionato dalle esigenze di generazioni di lavoratori coatti e venduto come sensazione a élite occidentali de-territorializzate. Da testimone del cambiamento a caposaldo dell’Ho.re.ca trans-nazionale.

Il mito delle grandi quantità relative di prodotto e la selezione di varietà e sitemi di produzione capaci di reggere lo sforzo di 400 quintali per ettaro [2], l’irrigazione a quasi 10.000 m3 acqua/ettaro/anno [3] ed il letame “a badilate”. Questa è la tradizione in Argentina.

Il malbec, “malvèc” secondo la pronuncia mendozina, è la lotta tra l’inerzia dei sistemi consuetudinari e la fluidità del capitalismo moderno. I percorsi di identità e tradizione contro l’opportunità di remunerazione offerta da una posizione geografica. Da una parte affittuari in balia di agenti atmosferici e oidio, con residenze ricavate da casolari isolati in totale assenza di servizi, strade di accesso polverose e prezzi delle uve a 50 centavos/kg [4], con l’alternativa di produrre vino per 10 centavos al litro. Dall’altra la colonizzazione delle monete europee ed americane ed i salari sicuri delle nuove strutture agroindustriali. L’avvenire.

Nascerà un modo più veloce di fare soldi e l’adesione sarà indiscussa e unanime. Senza nessuna assicurazione ci si tufferà sulle nuove procedure californiane buttando al vento secoli di tradizioni argentine.

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