Today we learned a lot about how a camera works, beginning with the lens. The word lens comes from the Latin root “lentil” and dates all the way to 1200 in Venice, Italy where the first commercial production of a lens occurred in the form of eyeglasses.

Though many renditions of a telescope were created after the discovery of the lens, it wasn’t until the early 1600’s that Galileo created his first tubular scope. He got his inspiration from an inventor named Lippershey, who created a magnifying device using two convex lenses at 3 power. He used this device to describe the Milky Way as a collection of stars. The only flaw of his version of a telescope was that the image appeared upside down.

It wasn’t long before the renowned Galileo heard of this discovery. On August 4^th, 1609, within twenty-four hours of observing Lippershey’s invention, Galileo presented a 10-power telescope, which produced right-side-up images, as a gift to the Doge. Galileo was able to produces the right-side-up image that Lippershey could not by using one convex lens and one concave lens.

Later on Galileo sends his invention to Kepler. After Kepler observes the lens within Galileo’s telescope he is inspired to create Camera Obscura with lens scope and uses this adaptation to more accurately draft maps. Artists also often used this invention to sketch out paintings before beginning them.

We then delved in to the mechanics behind the 35MM cameras we are currently learning how to use starting with Maxwell’s Equations which basically communicates the idea that light behaves like a wave. We then continued on to factors which control exposure, including aperture size, shutter speed, ISO setting or film speed, and the brightness of the subject. Film speed, which is usually marked ISO, must be set to the speed of your film.

With manual exposure you must set both the aperture and the shutter speed by yourself. In order to do this you must decide what kind of light is on the subject of the photo and then set your aperture accordingly. For example, on a sunny day you should set your aperture to f/16 and use the shutter speed closest to the ISO number. For a shady day, you should set your aperture to f/4.

Light meters can be beneficial in helping you decide which settings will produce the best photograph. Before light meters existed, many portraits were often washed out by the light, or the contrary. In order to keep the subject’s brightness from being a problem, many photographers use a Gray Card which makes sure the picture doesn’t get washed out by the light by tricking the camera’s settings.

Presently, many cameras have a light meter built right into the device which will tell you if you’re settings are not accurate. There are two types of light meters. One is called a reflected-light meter which can be hand held and must be aimed toward the subject of the photograph. The other is called an incident light meter which is faced toward the camera from the position of the subject and measures the light that is falling on the subject.

There are four types of meter modes mentioned in our reading. They are manual, aperture-priority, shutter-priority, and programmed (fully) automatic. If the light is not changing, it is safe to use manual mode. Aperture-priority has the ability to set the fastest shutter speed possible. Shutter-priority prevents blurs when set at its fastest speed and creates blurs when set at its slowest.

It’s a little confusing but I am definitely beginning to understand and appreciate.   

2.Dipole Charge distribution

3.Quardapole Charge distribution.

4. Unstable twi dipole side by side.