The city hall of Palma de Mallorca is known by the name of Cort. The Ajuntament de Palma has its seat in an impressive building dating from the 17th century. Next time you are in the area, have a look up and enjoy the splendid wooden eaves, a work by the sculptor Gabriel Torres. The eaves’ sculpted statues are probably inspired by the Atlantean figures made by Juan de Salas during the 16th century which can be found in the pulpit of La Seu (the Cathedral).

Spectacular. You will not find more impressive eaves anywhere in Palma, or in Mallorca for that matter.

Don’t be afraid to enter the building; you are allowed to visit. The spacious entrance hall leads to an Imperial staircase leading to the main floor. You can’t go up there, but you can have a look at the Gothic doorway that remains from the previous building of the seat of the government of the city, from the 13th century. Also on the groundfloor, there is a public library where you can read the newspapers, if that is what you would like to do.

The photo was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 4th, 2009. The time was 13:46:50.

November 30th is the deadline for paying your local taxes here in Mallorca. If you own property here or a car, the annual impuestos become due now and your municipal town hall will have sent you a bill, along with the charges for rubbish collection and other municipal services. If you don’t make the deadline there is an extended deadline until December 31st but you will be billed a surcharge of 5 or 10 %. If you pay later than that there will be a surcharge of 20 %, at least here in Felanitx where I live. Both taxes are due whether you actually reside here or not.

There are national taxes as well, such as income tax and wealth tax, but they are not due until May or June of next year. Both taxes are due if you own property in Spain and again, are due whether you reside in Spain or not.

The municipal property tax/council tax is set by the ayuntamiento (municipal authorities) and usually ranges between 0.5 % and 1 %, varying from pueblo to pueblo. Of course you can pay your dues by bank transfer but many Mallorcans prefer to visit their local Agencia Tributária and settle their bills in cash. Old habits die hard. When I went to the tax office yesterday in Felanitx, there must have been a queue of some 50 or 60 people. I was the only extranjero there, in my opinion, except for one Moroccan (or Arab) man who arrived an hour after I had. I reckon that many foreigners shy away from turning up in person at the tax office or the town hall for reasons to do with the language barrier. It is really a great shame that so many foreigners are so little willing to participate in matters of daily life, such as taxes or other administrative affairs, here in Mallorca.

The photo was taken in Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 27th, 2009. The time was 12:44:01.

Tordos (lat. Turdus philomelos, Song Thrushes) are migratory birds which come to our Mallorcan shores during the month of October. This year, the hunting season for these birds started a fortnight later than usual, on November 1st, and is now in full swing. Hunting the highly demanded thrushes is allowed with either rifle, bow and arrow or with a net, strung between two posts. Twenty tordo birds are allowed to be caught per day per person during the hunting season. The current season will finish at the end of January, 2010.

In the Illes Balears, a total of 26,000 hunting licenses are issued or renewed every year.

I found a rather interesting video on YouTube showing how tords (tordos) were caught by net somewhere near Valldemossa in 1997.

The photo (top) was taken in Caimari, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 22nd, 2009. The time was 12:20:56. The photo (bottom) was borrowed from the Internet. My thanks go to Diariodemallorca.es and the photographer, J. Mora. The video was taken from the Internet, courtesy of YouTube and Tenassa.

Tripoli continues to be of interest and frustrations. The process of getting Mrs L and the bijou L’s here is still ongoing. Little men in some dusty office playing games with peoples lives is at the root of it all I am guessing. I still have to get my passport back with my residents visa (although there is talk of it arriving back on Sunday). My apartment is still devoid of furniture as works container is still sitting in the sun in a Tripoli harbour whilst kitu kidogo is discussed. My car, bought three weeks ago, sits downstairs plateless as the plate office comes to terms with the fact that Ramadan is over for another year. If Libya could have chosen its colonial power from which to inherit its bureaucratic heritage I am sure it would not have ended up with this fusion of Italian/Libyan/Gadaffi/petro nonsense.

Cot

The city has changed enormously since Ramadan came to an end. I was out last night at midnight buying a cot for N. The owner of the baby store had it made up then and there and drove me back with his two fundi’s to the apartment and had it installed by 12.30. Whilst it was being put together I had a coffee on the pavement with Awad (the owner of a construction company in Tripoli) who told me about his life in Bournemouth and Brighton in the 1990’s. So I have to say I am enjoying life on the street level, at work and in my loft apartment.

China

I have taken my new vehicle out twice (without paper work, plates and valid license renders the undertaking more than a little foolhardy). On my first foray (to fill a 60 litre tank with petrol for the princely sum of £4.50) I was hit by a Chinese contractor (they seem to be everywhere these days – I have spotted them building office blocks in Banjul and roads in Ethiopia in recent years). In a flash my concern for the plight of Tibetans slipped to number two on my list of issues with the Chinese. As far as I am concerned they can do what they like to the Dali Lama, as long as Mr Cao Xian pays for the dent he placed in my bumper. His first reaction when emerging from his Pajero was to laugh. Now, this may have been nerves on his part or a cultural miss-understanding on my part, but it wasn’t the greatest of starts to what has become a rather tense relationship. I have been advised by many ‘better a Chinaman than a Libyan’. Still, Mr Cao assures me that he will pay for the damage to be repaired. So perhaps there is a brighter future for SINO-Anglo relations.

Fault

Wednesday nights are usually spent playing 5-a-side football (teams roughly divided down the lines of well paid oil executives from Germany and Italy – no surprise there – and the British). The biggest irritant (for me) on these nights is an Iraqi-Scot oilman who has yet to recognise the joy that can be had playing footy badly for an hour. He wears the full Argentine kit and has the word Madonna (or Maradonna. I forget) emblazoned across the back. They do say the traits we dislike in others are also our own worst faults.

Carpet

Tomorrow will find me in the carpet market sourcing flooring materials and in a mattress shop hunting down a pocket sprung, antiallergic sleeping surface for N. She doesn’t suffer with any allergies but Mrs Leafy insists. The benefits of the internet, mobile phones and Skype are sometimes lost on me.

Cruise ship arriving at WTC terminal, Barcelona Port

Introduction to Barcelona

Barcelona is Spain’s second largest city and the capital of Catalonia, a defiant and independent region of Spain, which has it’s own language, culture, and history.  Located on Spain’s southern coast its climate is classically Mediterranean, never too hot and never too cold. It’s the perfect location for a vacation, relaxing by walking the pavements, shopping, spending time at a café, eating Spanish fare in the evening, and visiting awe-inspiring sights.

Map Showing Barcelona Cruise Terminals, WTC (N,E,S) , Adossat Quay (A,B,C,D), Port Vell (M)

Barcelona Cruise Terminals

Cruise ships dock at Port Vell. The area is a tourist attraction in its own right with a large Maremàgnum shopping mall with a huge IMAX cinema, and Europe’s biggest aquarium. Port Vell leads directly on to Las Ramblas, the iconic Barcelona street lined with cafes and street entertainment that feeds into the center of the city. Las Ramblas is also known by the singular, La Rambla.

The port has 7 cruise terminals, split into 3 quays.

Adossat Terminals (Terminals A, B, C, D)
Terminals A, B, C and D are located at the Adossat Quay and are furthest away from the city center. Terminal D is also called Palacruceros. Shuttle buses make the short trip from the terminals to the foot of Las Ramblas (Colon Square).

World Trade Center Quay (Terminals N,S,E)
2 terminals are located at the World Trade Center (WTC) quay which are called North, and South. From these it is an easy walk to Colon square at the foot of Las Ramblas. The North Terminal can handle one medium sized vessel, the South Terminal  two ships, the biggest one up to a length of 253 meters.  The additional mooring space at quay East can be utlized  by either the North or South Terminals.

Port Vell (Terminal M)
Near to the World Trade Center Terminal. This ferry terminal is sometimes employed for cruiseliners.

All terminals have taxi ranks.

La Valletta, Malta, a popular destination for cruises departing from Barcelona

Available Cruises
Cruises leaving from Barcelona offer a wide variety of destinations. The most popular is a trip circumnavigating the Western Mediterranean. Alternatives would be the Canary Islands, Morocco, or longer trips to the Eastern Mediterranean and Greece. A sample of itineraries would be:

Pearls of the Riviera (Oceania) Barcelona, Valencia, Palma de Mallorca, Marseille, St Tropez, Monaco, Portofino, Livorno, Amalfi, Sorrento, Civitavecchia
Eastern Mediterranean (NCL) Barcelona, Civitavecchia, Piraeus, Izmir, Alexandria, La Valletta, Barcelona
Canary Islands & Morocco (NCL) Barcelona, Casablanca, Agadir, Gran Canaria, Funchal, Malaga, Barcelona
Spain, Italy, Tunisia (Costa) Barcelona, Marseille, Savona, Naples, Palermo, Tunis, Palma de Mallorca, Barcelona

For a complete listing see cruises from Barcelona.

Out and About in Barcelona

It takes an enthusiastic tourist a week to tour Barcelona, so if you have only a day or two, you’ll be very busy. Don’t miss famous spots like La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi’s astounding church, the medieval, characterful Barrio Gothic area, and the Pablo Picasso museum. Finally visit Montjuic for a spectacular view of the whole of the city and the surrounding countryside and ocean.

Las Ramblas
An impressive promenade connecting Port Vell to Placa de Catalunya, the heart of old Barcelona. The street is lined with shops, cafes, florists, street performers, and Boqueria, a charming market. You’ll pass by the Gran Teatre del Liceu, Barcelona’s gorgeous opera theater. La Rambla finishes at the Placa de Catalunya, a large square filled by shops, cafes and bars.

La Sagrada Familia
Barcelona’s iconic church was designed by Barcelona’s most famous son Antonio Gaudi. Work began in 1883, and the spectacular building is only now nearing completion. Don’t miss features like the nativity-themed facade, the mosaic bell towers, and ornate doorways standing for faith, hope and charity.

The Museu d’art Contemporani de Barcelona
This bright white glass and concrete building rises above Barcelona old town. The Contemporary Art Museum collection, which starts in roughly 1950, includes many artworks from the Catalan region, by local artists like Antoni Tapies) as well as works by International artists such as Miguel Barcelo.

Barri Gotic
In Barcelona’s gothic quarter, the buildings date back to the thirteenth century. The streets are narrow and winding and crammed with busy life. At the center of the Barri Gotic lies the Museu Picasso, featuring the works of Picasso. Another must see is the Cathedral of Santa Eulalia, a magnificent building with gothic architecture.

La Pedrera
Gaudí planned a fantastic house with undulating, living forms for the property developer Pere Milà Camps. La Pedrera was Gaudi’s last work before spending all his time to the Sagrada Família.

Parc Guell
Another Gaudi design, Parc Guell is an intriguing public park. The planting is adventurous and colorful, but the real attraction is Guadi’s design work, likeornate steps and bizarre concrete walls.

Montjuic
The area of Montjuic is 700 feet above the city’s port and is filled with cafes, boutiques, art galleries and museums. Worth a visit the Museu Arqueologic which showcases items from early civilizations from Catalonia and the Balearics. Also recommended is the Museu Nacional d’art de Catalunya, which has a big collection of Romanesque art.

Travelling to the Port of Barcelona

From the City to the Port
Walking
The WTCcruise ship terminals are the closest to the foot of La Rambla, being approximately a five minute walk. However the Adossat dock cruise ship terminals, A, B, C, D, are a larger distance away and you would need to take a shuttle bus nicknamed the Blue Bus which collects at the memorial to Christopher Columbus and drops off at Adossat quayside.
Metro
The Drassanes stop (L3 Green Line) is no more than five minutes by foot from the Christopher Columbus statue.
Taxi
It’s easy to catch a taxi from the city center to the port. This is not expensive, fare around eight euros, and fast, generally under twenty minutes.
Getting from the Airport to the Cruise Port
By bus
Take the Bus to Placa Catalunya in Barcelona, next travel by metro from Catalunya to Drassanes. From there walk to the statue of Christopher Columbus. Wait for the Blue bus which shuttles to your cruise ship terminal.
Taxi
The best way for travelling from the airport to the docks is a cab. The journey takes about 25 mins and costs around thirty five euros in total. The cost should cover per-bag extras and extra airport and cruise port charges.

Further Information

Language Catalan/Spanish
Currency EURO

The Convento de Santa Teresa de Jesús is one of the 43 monasteries that once existed in Palma de Mallorca. Nowadays, only six or seven of them are still operating as a monastic institution.

Anyway, the Esglèsia de Santa Teresa in Palma’s Rambla had recently a bit of restauration work done to its exterior. In the course of repair work and a thorough clean up, a rather large sundial was discovered on the church façade that was unknown to the authorities. The monochromatic hour pattern had faded away over the ages and the old style had vanished. Only the wet from the rain made the sundial discernable from close up. Ultraviolet lamps were used during the restoration process and the gnomon was replaced. Now this rehabilitated sundial gives us the time of day once again and in replenished style.

The church of Santa Teresa was built in 1634 and it is assumed that the original sundial dates from the same period, or perhaps a little later when the convent was constructed. An astonishing 945 sundials are known in Mallorca, with about 80 of them in the Palma area, if you want to know, and some of them are priceless. The oldest known sundial in Mallorca dates from 1614 and is located in Son Puig.

There is a Google map on the web with 24 positions of sundials in Palma. Not quite accurate but interesting nevertheless.

The photo (top) was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 24th, 2009. The time was 13:17:57. The photo (bottom) was borrowed from the Internet. Thanks are due to arcapatrimoni.blogspot.com.

Moltes gràcies.

On Friday night we wanted to eat out. My wife wanted Fadi’s, which is an awesome choice but it’s a little far into town to any of their locations from where we live and the wife was meeting me there with our son. I was on my way home from work so we figured somewhere on the Southwest Freeway would be best, to keep it simple.
Since Fadi’s was already out there as a preference, the new Dimassi’s on 59 between West Airport and Kirkwood was a natural choice.
They took an old, short-lived attempt at a Cajun restaurant, called Gringeaux ala Pappadeux, by nearby Gringo’s and basically refurnished it.
Like most Dimassi’s location it’s NOT about how the place looks but how the food tastes. This location happens to look like it belongs in the French Quarter of New Orleans, but inside it’s generic restaurant decor with comfortable tables and lots of seating. Another plus is the large parking lot, which you won’t find at some of the other Mediterranean restaurants in town.

The buffet was attractive and well stocked. The food was all the right temperature and the falafel were so hot I nearly burned myself retrieving the tasty nuggets.

Everything was delicious. I had falafel, baba ganoush, hummus, cucumber salad, tabbouleh, rice and lentils, rice pilaf, seasoned potatoes, and lots of pitas.

I did not like the tabbouleh but it tasted very flavorful and my wife liked it a lot so that was probably just me. I also didn’t care for some kind of potato-salad like dish that was served cold. IT was ok but not my favorite and you when you have so many dishes which vie for the title of awesome there’s no reason to eat the mediocre. The pita were a little tough and not as yummy as Fadi’s, as their’s are straight out of the brick oven, but I could also eat a bunch of them without paying $.50 for each one after the first so that mitigates the fact that the were a little tough.

The baklava…fantastic. The lady fingers were also good and my son liked the jam cookies. The semolina cakes had yogurt so naturally we avoided those.

We paid less than $35 for the three of us including drinks and desserts, of course.

We’ll definitely be going back as it was nearly as good as Fadi’s and they have slightly different stuff. If you’re near a Dimassi’s you should definitely give it a try. Oh and they plenty of meat dishes and fresh-baked pizza for the Omnis in your family/friends.

Originally Published on 5/26/2009 on Buddha’s Brewhouse.

We arrived at Piraeus, the port for Athens at about 8am and met our tour guide.  On our way to Athens, we learned a bit about Piraeus, which isn’t just a port, but an active city of its own.

After a short drive, we arrive in Athens – the birthplace of civilization. We visited the Olympic stadium that was used in the last two Olympics held in Athens.  We took a walk through beautiful gardens, close to the Prime Minister’s residence and saw the traditional Greek guards at the entryway.  We went to the Acropolis  and spent more than an hour exploring.  There is a charge to walk up to the Parthenon (12 euros), but it is well worth it.  Quite a bit is in scaffolding which you find everywhere in Europe.

With only a day of excursions we only had a chance to go to the Plaka and have lunch.  The Plaka is Athens’ old town – lots of restaurants, shopping, old churches, tourists and locals.  Our guide took us to a restaurant and they suggested dining family style and started bringing out the dishes.  All the regular Greek favorites starting with bread and salad, appetizers of hummus, fried chick pea-balls, cheese balls, followed by stew, dolmates and mousaka.  The food and wine just kept coming!

Our trip did not leave much time for shopping, but the Plaka is a great place to buy gold jewelry.

I had a couple of friends over on the weekend so I planned a mediterranean ‘tapas’ evening. Handy because you can prepare most of it in advance so you can enjoy the company rather than spending the whole evening in the kitchen! On the menu I had spanish tortilla, tzatziki, chorizo & garlic prawns, crusty bread, cheeses, olives, and dolmades. And I thought i’d put the recipe for the dolmades up, as they were my first attempt, and they proved to be a popular nibble! I didn’t have a chance to take any proper photos, but I took a few briskly in a badly lit kitchen.

D O L M A D E S

1 packet vine leaves in brine

extra virgin olive oil

1 cup long grain rice

2 red onions, chopped fine

2 cloves garlic, chopped fine

1 lemon sliced

the juice of 1 lemon

3 tbsp pine nuts, toasted lightly

2 tbsp sultanas

handful of dill, chopped

handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped

maldon salt & black pepper

To prepare the V I N E  L E A V E S remove them from the packaging, and blanch them in boiling water for about 3 minutes. Drain, and run under cold water to prevent them from cooking further. Try not to tear them when doing this, you want the leaves in tact as much a possible, so the dolmades hold their shape and don’t lose their stuffing!

To make the S T U F F I N G heat a few tbsp of olive oil in a 20cm diameter heavy based pan (about 7-8cm deep). Gently fry the onions for about 7 minutes, until soft. Add the garlic and stir through over low heat for 1 minute. Then add the rice, and turn through well, coating in the oil. We only want to partially cook the  rice during this stage. The rice will finish cooking once wrapped inside the vine leaves. So now gradually add about 1 cup of warm water to the pan and stir it into the rice mixture, allowing it to be absorbed fully, this should take no more than 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and remove the pan from the heat, transfer to a large mixing bowl and allow to cool for 5 or so minutes. Then add the pine-nuts, sultanas, parsley, dill, a dash of olive oil, and a bit more seasoning if needed.

To make the D O L M A D E S firstly prepare the pan. Using the same heavy based pan (but cleaned!), pour about 1-2 tbsp olive oil in the base. Then line the base with about 5 vine leaves, overlapping them so the base is completely covered. I try and use the torn/poorly shaped leaves for this bit, and save the good leaves for the dolmades! Now on a clean surface, lay out several vine leaves with the veiny side facing up, stem side closest to you, leaf tip furthest away. You then put about 1-2 heaped tsp of the filling into the centre of each leaf. Now imagine the leaf is a compass. To roll them up, fold the East and West sides over the filling, bring the base (South) of the leaf up over the filling, and roll away from you, tapering the section of the leaf that you are rolling towards so that each dolmade has a neat, tapered seam (when i make these again, i’ll take some more photos!). It’s important not to roll them TOO tightly. The rice will expand a bit when it cooks completely, so you don’t want them to burst! Put them into the pan as you go, fitting them in snugly, seam side down, until you’ve filled the base of the pan with them.

To C O O K the dolmades, place about 7 lemon slices over them in the pan, and then pour the juice of 1 lemon (about 2 Tbsp lemon juice) over them. Then pour enough water over them until it reaches about 2/3 of the way up the dolmades. I find this usually requires about 1 cup of water. Pour a dash of olive oil over them. Finally, place a circle of greaseproof paper over the dolmades, and then sit a small plate upside down, on-top of the paper. This will keep them snugly in place! Put the lid on, and place on the hob on a low heat, for about 35 minutes. Turn off the heat, and leave them in the pan with the lid on for another 30 minutes, to continue soaking up all the juices.

You can S E R V E  them warm, straight out of the pan… or alternatively leave them to cool or chill them in the fridge until you need to serve them. I prefer them cold with a bit of tzatziki to dip them in!

]]> http://mediterraneanheart.wordpress.com/2009/11/25/tips-to-cook-safe-meals-during-the-holidays-2/ Wed, 25 Nov 2009 09:38:01 +0000 mediterraneanheart http://mediterraneanheart.wordpress.com/2009/11/25/tips-to-cook-safe-meals-during-the-holidays-2/

Good morning everybody,                                                                                                                                             

The FDA has just issued a list of safety tips you need to keep in mind when you cook your meals for the coming holydays and I wanted to bring them to you as they are very important. Remember also that food safety, although a extremely important issue, it is not the only one when it comes to cooking for the holidays; you also need to keep in mind that you should not use these celebrations as an excuse to eat poorly. If you need some guidelines on the subject, just go to my website, www.emiliaklapp.com and you will find plenty of information to “survive” the holidays without doing too much damage to your body.

Here is the article on what the FDA advices all of us when it comes to food safety:

Parties, family dinners, and other gatherings where food is served are all part of the holiday cheering. But the merriment can change to misery if food makes you or others ill.

Typical symptoms of foodborne illness are vomiting, diarrhea, and flu-like symptoms, which can start anywhere from hours to days after contaminated food or drinks are consumed.

The symptoms usually are not long-lasting in healthy people—a few hours or a few days—and usually go away without medical treatment. But foodborne illness can be severe and even life-threatening to anyone, especially those most at risk:

• older adults
• infants and young children
• pregnant women
• people with HIV/AIDS, cancer, or any condition that weakens their immune systems
• people who take medicines that suppress the immune system; for example, some medicines for rheumatoid arthritis

Combating bacteria, viruses, parasites, and other contaminants in our food supply is a high priority for the Food and Drug Administration. But consumers have a role to play, too, especially when it comes to safe food handling practices in the home.

“The good news is that practicing four basic food safety measures can help prevent foodborne illness,” says Marjorie Davidson, a consumer educator at FDA.

1. Clean                                                                                                                                                                                  

The first rule of safe food preparation in the home is to keep everything clean.

• Wash hands with warm water and soap for 20 seconds before and after handling any food. “For children, this means the time it takes to sing ‘Happy Birthday’ twice,” says Davidson.
• Wash food-contact surfaces (cutting boards, dishes, utensils, countertops) with hot, soapy water after preparing each food item and before going on to the next item.
• Rinse fruits and vegetables thoroughly under cool running water and use a produce brush to remove surface dirt.
• Do not rinse raw meat and poultry before cooking. “Washing these foods makes it more likely for bacteria to spread to areas around the sink and countertops,” says Davidson.

2. Separate                                                                                                                                               

Don’t give bacteria the opportunity to spread from one food to another (cross-contamination).

• Keep egg products, raw meat, poultry, seafood, and their juices away from foods that won’t be cooked. Take this precaution while shopping in the store, when storing in the refrigerator at home, and while preparing meals.
• Consider using one cutting board only for foods that will be cooked (such as raw meat, poultry, and seafood) and another one for those that will not (such as raw fruits and vegetables).
• Keep fruits and vegetables that will be eaten raw separate from other foods such as raw meat, poultry or seafood—and from kitchen utensils used for those products.
• Do not put cooked meat or other food that is ready to eat on an unwashed plate that has held any egg products, or any raw meat, poultry, seafood, or their juices.

3. Cook

Food is safely cooked when it reaches a high enough internal temperature to kill harmful bacteria.

• “Color is not a reliable indicator of doneness,” says Davidson. Use a food thermometer to make sure meat, poultry, and fish are cooked to a safe internal temperature. To check a turkey for safety, insert a food thermometer into the innermost part of the thigh and wing and the thickest part of the breast. The turkey is safe when the temperature reaches 165ºF. If the turkey is stuffed, the temperature of the stuffing should be 165ºF. (Please read on for more pointers on stuffing.
• Bring sauces, soups, and gravies to a rolling boil when reheating.
• Cook eggs until the yolk and white are firm. When making your own eggnog or other recipe calling for raw eggs, use pasteurized shell eggs, liquid or frozen pasteurized egg products, or powdered egg whites.
• Don’t eat uncooked cookie dough, which may contain raw eggs.

4. Chill

Refrigerate foods quickly because harmful bacteria grow rapidly at room temperature.

• Refrigerate leftovers and takeout foods—and any type of food that should be refrigerated—within two hours. That includes pumpkin pie!
• Set your refrigerator at or below 40ºF and the freezer at 0ºF. Check both periodically with an appliance thermometer.
• Never defrost food at room temperature. Food can be defrosted safely in the refrigerator, under cold running water, or in the microwave. Food thawed in cold water or in the microwave should be cooked immediately.
• Allow the correct amount of time to properly thaw food. For example, a 20-pound turkey needs four to five days to thaw completely when thawed in the refrigerator.
• Don’t taste food that looks or smells questionable. Davidson says, “A good rule to follow is, when in doubt, throw it out.”
• Leftovers should be used within three to four days.

 Also, use care with stuffing.

In its Holiday Food Safety Success Kit, the Partnership for Food Safety Education recommends:

• Whether it is cooked inside or outside the bird, all stuffing and dressing recipes must be cooked to a minimum temperature of 165ºF. For optimum safety, cooking your stuffing in a casserole dish is recommended.
• Stuffing should be prepared and stuffed into the turkey immediately before it’s placed in the oven.
• Mix wet and dry ingredients for the stuffing separately and combine just before using.
• The turkey should be stuffed loosely, about 3/4 cup stuffing per pound of turkey.
• Any extra stuffing should be baked in a greased casserole dish.

Have a very safe and healthy holiday.

Emilia Klapp, RD, BS.
Your Heart Needs the Mediterranean Diet
www.MediterraneanDietForTheHeart.com

The U.S. Department of Agriculture offers more information on stuffing safety at its Turkey Basics Web page.

Information on food safety is available by phone at:

The FDA Food Information Line
1-888-SAFEFOOD (1-888-723-3366)

The USDA Meat and Poultry Hotline
1-888-MPHotline (1-888-674-6854)
TTY 1-800-256-7072

Also, a new video on the topic, produced in English and in Spanish, is available for viewing at FDA’s Holiday Food Safety page.

The mushroom period is upon us in a big way this year. Everywhere in Mallorca’s markets we find a plentitude of Girgolas, Llenguas de Bous, Peus Blaus, Esclatassangs, Picornells, Bolets, Setas de Avila and whatnots. It is a sheer pleasure to see such a variety and to have so much choice, for me anyway. Right now, the Mallorcan woods, mountains and garrigas allows us to forage for food, as long as one is into mushrooms. I have recommended the Bolets de les Balears guidebook (in Catalan only) before. It comes in two volumes at 45 € and is a very comprehensive guide.

The mountain village of Mancor de la Vall celebrates the 7th Fira de l’Esaclata-sang i de la Muntanya next Sunday (November 29th). If you are a mushroom lover, do not miss this occasion. The ajmancordelavall.net website offers a pdf download with the full programme details, if you should be so inclined.

The photo was taken in Caimari, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 22nd, 2009. The time was 13:36:42.

Photo by Nihan Aydin.

It’s the “most wonderful time of the year” — and depression is rampant. Between the darkness (if you live in the northern hemisphere), family drama, financial stresses… it’s a time when many people find their mood going in an unhappy direction. Here are some tangible tips for feeling better.

1. Exercise.
Depression by definition diminishes most motivation. But getting off the couch can make a remarkable difference in your emotional resilience. Exercise literally changes not only the chemicals being made in your brain, but also how well those chemicals work. It doesn’t have to be intense and it doesn’t have to be very much. Just starting will help those clouds lift.

2. Get some sun.
The winter’s lack of light makes lots of people low. The effect isn’t new — it’s been described since the 1800s. These days there’s a name for it, complete with cute acronym: seasonal affective disorder, or SAD.

Adding light can help. Outdoor, natural daylight is best, especially in the morning. But many companies also sell light boxes that researchers find really do help — even for summertime depression.

Photo by Nathalie Dulex.

Scientific research all over the map supports this. An October 2009 study in the Archives of General Psychiatry reported that a Mediterranean-style diet reduced depression in addition to its well-known heart and anti-cancer benefits. They found that fruits, nuts, beans and fat from fish and olive oil all helped beat the blues.

Filling up with fresh fruits and veggies also has another happy side effect: reducing your exposure to mood-busting sugar and processed foods.

4. Up the fish oils.
The long dark winters in Iceland don’t translate into high levels of depression there, and scientists think the reason is in the high-omega-3 fish the locals consume.

For people who are depressed, researchers have found significant improvements in mood after just two weeks of therapy with fish oil.

How does it work? The omega-3 oils reduce depression-causing inflammatory chemicals and improved cellular function, all of which make a happier brain.

5. Feed your microflora, too.
The first-line prescription therapy for depression is a drugs that increases serotonin availability in the brain. Looking at the body as a whole, most serotonin is found in the gut, where it helps signal the movements needed to promote digestion.

We’re designed to make a lot of serotonin ourselves, with the help of foods and the healthy flora in our guts. Supporting that flora with probiotics —found in foods such as sauerkraut, kimchee, live yoghurt and miso — can help make more serotonin available to the whole body, including the brain.

Like fish oils, probiotics also reduce inflammation and oxidative stress that influence depression.

6. Give flower essences a try.
Having flower essences on hand can offer a quick pick-me-up, or support long-term healing. Take four drops as needed, or four times daily in a little water over the longer term. They don’t interact with any other medications, and the only possible concern is a tiny amount of alcohol.

Try Star of Bethlehem for dealing with grief and trauma. Sweet chestnut helps deep, dark despair and hopelessness. Pine relieves guilt. And willow helps when you feel resentful or sorry for yourself. For some sunshine in a bottle, try the Solstice Sun environmental essence from wild Alaska.

7. Learn more.
While there’s no substitute for talking with friends or professional counselors, these books can help you understand what’s going on and offer suggestions for helping yourself.

This psychologist-recommended website links to articles about natural health and a variety of mental health issues.

8. If you need help, get help.
Sometimes the blues are transient, and simple home fixes like these are all you need. But if the darkness persists, remember that you are not alone. Naturopaths and psychologists are an important part of getting better.

If you’re battling the blues this holiday season, be sure to take some moments out to take care of you!

(From Left to Right: Efren, Michelle & Sunni)

Get ready for exciting and informative programs with the chefs and cooks of the Multi Cultural Cooking Network.    Read their bios at http://multiculturalcooking.net

This dynamic trio is serving up some great recipe for the holidays.  Stay tuned….

( Efren Cardinas  serves up desserts to be featured on his holiday show)

Mediterranean Delights by Michelle

Sunni Boswell will teach you quick and easy Asian Cuisines

Mallorca’s Moroccan population is busy preparing for Eid al-Adha (the Festival of Sacrifice, November 29th) when corderos will be slaughtered in Felanitx and elsewhere on the island. I think I might be invited by one of our neighbours.

Mallorcan families celebrate matanzas during this time of year, when pigs are sacrificed albeit not for religious reasons. An age old farming tradition is upheld here in the countryside. November/December is the time of the year when pigs are slaughtered to provide food for most of the year: sobrassadas, butifarrons, lomo and embutidos. Of course, pigs are a no-no for Muslims, but cerdos provided staple food for many of our Mallorcan neighbours during centuries, or so I believe. Matanzas are a laborious yet joyous event and a great Mallorcan tradition.

I have recently heard that having a matanza at home involving the killing of a pig does not conform to rules and regulations any longer and is deemed alegal. I cannot believe that to be true. Dozens of families that I know in our area had their matanzas already, over the last few weeks, or have them planned for the next few weeks. Perhaps it is a matter of authorities turning a blind eye as everybody senses that this is a tradition that may not live for much longer due to the changes that affect rural Spain and contemporary Mallorca. We’ll see.

A splendid book has just been published that celebrates the matanza del cerdo in Mallorca, called Porcs – Mirades tallades. Gori Vicens (Palma, 1968) is the artist behind the powerful photographs in this large format book, whilst artist Albert Pinya (Palma, 1985) offers some bucolic illustrations. The impressive visuals are accompanied by a passionate and vibrant text from the pen of Andreu Manresa (Felanitx, 1955), an El País journalist and a food lover. He lives just round the corner from our house here in Felanitx.

The book is published by Institut d’Estudis Baleàrics and retails at 45 €; it would make for a perfect gift for Christmas or for any other occasion if you want to show that you care for Mallorca and its traditions.

The top two photos were taken by Cati B. near Felanitx, Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: November 21st, 2009. The time was 08:36:47 and 11:12:03, respectively. The bottom two photos were taken from the Internet, courtesy of dbalears.cat. Copyright for these two photos is held by Gori Vicens and the Institut d’Estudis Baleàrics.

Moltes gràcies.

To the southwest of Santa Ponça in the Calvià municipality one finds a cluster of small islands with the names of Illa dels Conills (also known as Islote de ses Rates), L’Olla and Es Malgrat, extending over a length of approximately 2.5 km and covering some 138 ha. This archipelago of Malgrat-Olla-Conills was declared a Reserva Marina (Marine Reserve) in 2004, together with that of nearby Illa Toro. Marine reserves in Mallorca do not quite have the full protection of nature reserves but are sheltered to a considerable degree. Thanks to this protection, a great number of species find a safe refuge here, where they may reproduce in peace, maintaining a natural age structure and diversity. Algae, fish, jellyfish and coral, as well as extensive fields of underwater sea grass meadows of Posidonia oceánica coexist in this area, together with sepias, moray eels, seabass, sea horses, octupus macropus, seacows and red starfish, to name but a few. On land, one can find the protected Corys shearwater, swifts, cormorants and puffins, as well as the Balearic lizard.

One can only get to these small islands by boat or by swimming. Once there, certain kinds of fishing are prohibited: scuba fishing, professional fishing, artisan fishing and fishing competitions. Individual fishing is permitted, i. e. fishing with rod and reel, as long as a valid fishing license is secured. But the fishing of certain species of fish is prohibited: the Angel fish, the Freckled catshark, the Spotted torpedo, and sea horses. Some crustaceans are also protected, such as crabs and crawfish and some species of molluscs such as the Marine Snail, the Astraea Rugosa and the Octopus, to name but a few.

Swimming as well as paddling in canoes or kayaks is allowed. Diving is allowed for individuals once the special permits have been obtained locally, or as part of organised excursions, which are offered from local diving schools. Catamaran excursions are available at a price on a regular basis during the winter months.

If you just want to have a distant look at the islotes, Cap Negret in Santa Ponça affords some splendid views over the Malgrat archipelago, absolutely free of charge.

The photo was borrowed from the Internet. My thanks go to Diario de Mallorca. The map was also borrowed from the Web, courtesy of Guía Náutica de las Islas Baleares.

Muchas gracias.

Since the Ottoman royal harems were filled with women from both the Mediterranean and the Baltic – Italian families even casting their daughters on the Adriatic to be picked up by the sultan’s sailors — my Turkish husband jokes he finally brought me back to Istanbul where I belong.

I don’t know, in the span of history and forgotten connections of family, anything’s possible. My Lithuanian family name, echoing a town and river on today’s Belarus border, also sounds a lot like the imperial Turkish bloodline of Osman.

As a fourth generation immigrant, I’m so far removed from who and where I come from I’m visited by ghost urges from genes and culture long ago severed. Today I post at expat+HAREM, the global niche about how the mysteries of our extended lineage often crop up as synchronicity, wanderlust, and quirks of taste.

For instance, why does this Northern California girl raised on turkey burgers crave the beet soup borscht? When I feel kinship with my Ukrainian, Estonian, Jewish, Italian and Greek friends, what do their wide brows or brown eyes, their stoicism or talkative personality, remind me of? Do they mirror the mix that is me?

What ethnic or regional mystery reverberates in you?

When I was a kid we had a “home entertainment center” that contained a color TV, a record player and a radio.  It was low and rectangular, made from some kind of dark wood and I remember my mom telling me she wasn’t crazy about it because was a “Mediterranean-Style”  piece.  I’m not sure why mom and I were having a discussion on furniture design while I was in grade school but I can still see that piece in my mind. You’ll find all kinds of architecture in the DC area including this one, a Mediterranean-style home that was added onto to create a backyard/pool/porch ensemble that would look great in Miami.  Actually, it doesn’t look bad here, either.

Mediterranean Style

New Delhi is the National Capital of India and one of its most fascinating cities. Being the Political centre and having the second largest metropolis by population, the city has a strong effect on the people of India and the direction in which the country has developed.

I love Delhi for its amazing diversity and interesting culture. The markets, the temples, the bustling business, the stunning sunsets and the great night spots. I would be difficult to ever get bored in this city. Here are 8 of my favourite things to do and see when in Delhi:

1. Bahai Lotus Temple

This is a temple dedicated to the Bahai faith and is a more recent addition to the architectural jewels of Delhi. I have never been close to it but I have driven past many times and it is just as spectacular at night as it is in the day. Reminds me somewhat of the Opera House and the Waratah Flower of Australia, maybe that’s why I like it so much. It took me at least 4 sightings of this to finally get an understanding of what it was and it is always at the top of my list for must sees in Delhi!

http://travelinsider.qantas.com.au/lotus_temple_south_delhi.htm

2. Qutub Minar

The World’s tallest free standing brick Minaret. An islamic structure which has a number of beliefs surrounding it. The intricate detail and craftwork which covers the entire structure is worth a look alone. Entry here is cheap and there is a fabulous mix of cultures all marvelling at the magnificence of this unusual sight.

http://www.info2india.com/rajasthan/qutub-minar-delhi.html

3. Dilli Haat Markets

Resembling the traditional craftsmen and trade markets, Dilli Haat offers the traveller a chance to experience a unique style of shopping . It’s the first permanent fair for regional foods, crafts and cultural activities. It’s a completely new experience and a great day out.

http://www.delhi-hotels-india.net/dilli-haat-delhi.htm

4.Red Fort

The Unesco World Heritage Site which could easily be mistaken for the Taj Mahal…. except that it’s red. I was very confused when I first saw it as it was so similar to the Taj Mahal in style, but once you see them in comparison, you understand the difference. This is where the Prime Minster addresses the people at the celebrations of Independence day, 15th August. If anything, it’s a beautiful building to see, octagonal in shape as is the style of such Islamic architecture.

http://www.tourmyindia.com/states/delhi/red.html

5. GK1 M- Block Market

A trip to Delhi is not complete without visiting this more upmarket area and the great set of shops and stalls located at the centre. The area is called Kalisah and it’s where the wealthy come to do their lower end shopping (so my high end.) There is fabulous jewellery, great snacks, luscious hair and beauty salons and shoe stalls as far as the eye can see. You may even spot an Indian Celebrity (I saw the queen of Beauty and skin care products of India… well, you couldn’t miss her! Diamonds covering every spare bit of flesh- LOVE IT!

http://www.delhilive.com/gk1-m-block-market

6. Shalom (Restaurant)

Amazing Mediterannean lounge bar with great decor and a very trance vibe. You can smoke sheeshah (hubbly bubbly) with flavours like apple and cherry and you can sip on sumptuous cocktails! Chill out sessions playing in the background with low lighting provide the prefect relaxing atmosphere for a great night out.

http://shalomexperience.com/

7. New Delhi Parliament

The Indian Parliamentary Buildings and India Gate are essential to the Delhi City Tour. It’s best to go here with a guide who can explain the area and chances are you will probably only see it from the car. Security is quite strict in this area and it can be difficult at times to get close. It was only in the 1920’s that Parliament was moved to Delhi from Calcutta and it has remained their since.

http://www.indiasite.com/delhi/places/parliamenthouse.html

8. India Gate

A slow drive down the Rajpath will allow you ample photo opportunities of the India Gate. This is a war memorial to over 90,000 Soldiers who lost their lives serving in World War 1. It’s a magnificent structure and a testament to the Indian people and their contributions during British Colonialism.

http://www.indiasite.com/delhi/places/indiagate.html

I hope you are able to see some of these great sites in Delhi. I strongly recommend going on a city tour or hiring a tour guide for one day to really get a good understanding of the history of the city and the many facets which make it the wonderful city it is today. To find out about the best markets and where to eat, chat to a local. The Indian people are very friendly and always more than happy to stop and give some advice to visitors.

Most people have this perception of Mallorca primarily as a holiday destination. The sun, the Mediterranean Sea, beaches, golf courses, chill-out lounges and Michelin-starred restaurants suggest an image of leisure and merriment. It seems difficult to acknowledge that there are darker aspects of Mallorca as well, and that there were some sinister moments in its history.

Not many people can imagine that concentration camps existed during the Thirties right in the middle of Mallorca, and even in the centre of Palma. One might have heard, perhaps, of thousands of French soldiers being interned in a concentration camp type prison on the island of Cabrera, but that was a long time ago (in 1809) and also, a relatively long way away. But here, in Mallorca?

Makeshift prison camps were built between Portocristo and Manacor in 1936-37 as soon as the Republican movement was defeated, at the outset of the Guerra Civil. Mallorcans talk of these camps as campos de concentracion. There is also talk of a concentration camp installation in what is known as the Balnearí de Sant Joan. At the same time, there existed a Campo de Concentración Palma de Mallorca. Ca’n Mir, a wood merchant’s place in Palma (see photo centre) was converted into a prison for political opponents, and so was Ca’n Sales (see photo above), also in Palma, the latter one for female prisoners only. The Castell de Bellver was used for Republican prisoners as well and, in particular, its underground caves.

Today there is not much evidence left of those grim installations. A plaque has recently been put up by the Ajuntament de Palma, commemorating the death of Matilde Landa, an inmate of Ca’n Sales who committed suicide there over her plight (see photo bottom), and of course, one can find scratchings and graffitis on the rock formations underneath the Castell de Bellver, if and when access to these cave dwellings is allowed.

The photo (bottom) was taken in Palma de Mallorca, Baleares, Spain. The date: September 14th, 2009. The time was 14:34:29. The photos (top) and (centre) were borrowed from the Internet. Thanks are due to fideus.com.

Moltes gràcies.

Going from a cold and wet environment in the Alps to bright and sunny Mediterranean cities was just what I needed. The train ride from Zermatt to Cinque Terre gave me some time for sleep, but not nearly enough. I arrived very groggy and exhausted from my Swiss adventures. I didn’t really know what to do or where to go, so I just defaulted to the visitors center and started walking.

Cinque Terre is comprised of 5 towns, Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Starting at Monterosso al Mare, I started hiking along the Italian Riviera. A gorgeous, yet strenuous trail that takes you to all five towns. Profuesely sweating I kept hiking up the trail, hoping that my views were worth the strenuous hike. Reaching a viewpoint for Vernazza, I was certain that my efforts had not been in vain. Continuing along the trail I came across a toll booth. The woman inside wanted five Euros for the use of the trail. I was astonished! I can understand the concept for paying to use a nicely maintained trail, but why have it nearly halfway between cities. Not having five Euros on me, she let me through but told me I couldn’t hike to the other cities without getting a pass. I assured her that I would get money out of the ATM and pay the next toll booth.

Arriving in Vernazza, exhausted and drenched with sweat from my hike, I walked around the city marveling at how different Italy was than Switzerland. The buildings were brightly colored and very close together. People had their clothes strung up in the narrow spaces between buildings, children ran around playing games, concrete steps snaked either up or down throughout the city. Flowers, flags, clothes, tourists, and umbrellas dominated the city streets, creating a vibrant energy that helped boost my own after being thoroughly drained in Zermatt.

I found an ATM machine, but unfortunately it wouldn’t work, I tried several others with no success. Guess I wouldn’t be hiking along the trail after all. I headed to the train station and realized that my Eurail pass granted me access to the trains connecting the cities, relieved that I was going to see them all, I hopped on board for one of the next cities.

I don’t remember which town it was I went to next, but I think it was the last one, Riomaggiore. I started exploring the town just like the first, it was very similar to the first and second towns, in that it was on the coast, had brightly colored buildings, and was full of life. Now that I was quite hot from baking in the sun and carrying my pack around all day as I explored the cities, I decided to go for a swim. Not having any place to change into my swimming suit, I decided that the street would do just fine. Taking my plastic bag that I had previously worn as pants in the Alps, I covered my waist and changed into my swimming suit. TA DA! Ready to swim I was.

Securing everything in my backpack, I walked barefoot along some jagged rocks along a small cliff where others were attempting to relax and sunbathe. I set down my bag, and being a little uneasy about leaving it among a crowd of people I timidly started off into the crystal clear water. Having grabbed my goggles I swam around under the water surprised at how many fish I saw. Hundreds of fish all shapes, sizes and colors swam around me and the rocks. Keeping an eye on my pack I swam around to some of the surrounding cliffs, climbed up and got my fill of cliff diving.

After my swim I grabbed my bag and headed out for the next town via train, Manarola. Arriving already in my swimming suit, I figured that I might as well swim there too. Walking down to the rocky area where others were sitting, I once again nestled my backpack and dove in the water. Beginning to trust the international public a bit more I felt a little more comfortable about leaving my bag unwatched.

The area where I was now swimming had a lot more people and was one of my most favorites. I swam around big rock formations and jumped off a few of them. I eyed a guy in orange shorts jumping off the highest rock on the site. Battling my inner self whether or not to climb the rock and leap off, after much deliberation I climbed the rock and plunged into the water below. Feeling free and relieved I swam to shore, and grabbed my bag.

I decided to jump off the top of this rock... good times

This time before going to the next town I decided to try an ATM nearby and was thrilled to once again have a few Euros. I found a reasonably priced restaurant near the water and was greeted by a friendly Italian family who no doubt ran the establishment. Once I choose a seat, the host sat me and my backpack at a table. (Yes, I had lunch with my backpack). Since I was near the sea, I decided it only be fitting to order something from the sea. I settled on Linguini with Clams. This was my first Italian meal and it was fantastic!

Next I headed for the middle town of Corniglia. When I got off the train I did not see the town. It took me a minute to realize that it was much higher than the train stop. I joined the other tourists in climbing the 382 steps up to the town. Exploring the town for a while I stated to take pictures, but before I knew it my battery was dead. I began looking around the town for a plug in. I went into small coffee shops and Gelato shops to find a plug in. I came to what was the opening of an apartment complex, I finally found an outlet hanging from the ceiling just inside the doorway. I snuck up to the building and secured my charger with its adapter to the mysterious hanging outlet. Waiting nearby I found a faucet that some people were filling their water bottles at, I joined them and drank from this water. Assuming that it was treated I hoped for the best. I hung around the area a little while longer to give my batter a chance to charge before I jetted off and out of the town, back down the 382 steps. At this point I had already swam in two of the five towns and decided that I would swim in all five of them before leaving Cinque Terre.

I didn’t really see a nice swimming area like the other places had, but I did find a rock beach that was hard to walk on. The walk to get to it was quite far and arduous. Once reaching the area, I set my bag down, ripped off my shirt and walked into the water. Swimming around for several minutes, I got out of the water, shook off like a dog and headed back  up the metal stairs toward the train station.

Getting to Vernazza, where I had already been before, I knew I still needed to swim. I walked down to the water set my bag down, and jumped off the end of a dock. I swam around to another big rock that I felt the need to climb and jump off, just like the others. Successfully cliff diving in three of the five towns thus far I felt accomplished. Grabbing my bag I headed back up to the train station.

Throughout my day wandering around Cinque Terre I had spotted an older man who was sickly skinny carrying a newspaper and had a cigar in his mouth. He was at this train station walking around with a deranged look on his face. I could tell he was certainly not well. He began shouting something in gibberish Italian at one of the people waiting for the train, then he walked over to me and started talking to me in his gibberish Italian. I just kept a straight face and he eventually walked away from me to yell at a few other people. One of the other people waiting for the train looked over at me and we exchanged a look of “yeah, that guy surely is crazy.”

I was happy when the train arrived, it meant that I only had one more town left to swim in. Unfortunately this time I got on the train, but it was going the wrong way. It took me to Corniglia. Jumping off at Corniglia, I waited for the proper train which took me back down to Monterosso al Mare.

The daylight was beginning to dwindle, I found my spot along the beach and dove into my final swimming spot of the day. Happy that I swam in all five towns I got my train information to Venice. While I was waiting for the train I decided to grab a quick bite to eat. I found an area that sold sandwiches, and I just picked one of the cheaper ones off the menu. I didn’t really care what it was, I figured whatever it was had to be edible right?

I get a nice ciabatta bread sandwich and hungry from all of my swimming and traveling of the day I bite into the sandwich. It was then and there I realized that I had ordered something, rather fishy. I looked down and saw what I had bit into, a lushious tomato and a very salty fish. The overpowering salty fish took me by surprise. One typically needs to prepare themselves before indulging in a salty fishy tasting fish with the scales on it. The sandwich wasn’t that bad actually, just not what I was in the mood for.

Heading to the train station I utilized their bathroom. I washed my hair, brushed my teeth, cleaned my feet, washed my face, changed my clothes and just got myself as freshened up as I could before my journey to Venice.

The decision by Vichy French forces to lay down their arms in North Africa didn’t play well at the top of the German military.  The announcement, coming on November 11, 1942, was immediately followed by the German occupation of Vichy France.

Nazi forces rolled through Vichy (which comprised the southeast half of France) and arrived at Toulon, a major port that opened into the Mediterranean Sea.  It was also home (and still is, for that matter) to a large portion of the French fleet, which interested the Germans greatly.  Docked in Toulon were 3 modern battleships, 7 cruisers, 18 destroyers, nearly 2 dozen submarines, and dozens of smaller auxiliary boats, tenders, and tugs.

It presented a nice addition to the Germany Navy, and a huge boost to their presence in the Mediterranean.  At that point the Germans began negotiating with Admiral Jean de Laborde, trying to get him to surrender the fleet peacefully.

Simultaneously, French Admiral Darlan was trying to get Laborde to sail the fleet out of Toulon and to the North African coast (not all that long of a journey) and add its firepower to the Allied side of the ledger.  The French ships stationed at Casablanca had foolishly decided to fight the incoming Allied forces and were soundly defeated.  The addition of the ships from Toulon would be most welcome.

For two weeks the negotiations continued, with the Germans and Allies each trying to win the day.

In the early morning hours of November 27, 1942, German patience ran out and SS panzer troops stormed the gates of Toulon’s naval base.  Immediately, Laborde gave the “Scuttle, scuttle, scuttle!” order.  And in one of the greatest acts of self-sabotage ever, the French sailors complied.

The sea cocks were opened and the waters of the harbor poured into the ships.  The engines were destroyed, along with the instruments, and the base at Toulon became a giant junkyard.  One by one, the ships got lower in the water, the fires set in the engine rooms eventually succumbing to the incoming flood.

In all, more than 70 vessels were sunk.  The 3 battleships, the 7 cruisers, 15 of the 18 destroyers, a dozen submarines, most of the torpedo boats, and all the tugs.

The immense frustration felt by Darlan (and many others) was tempered by General Eisenhower who, always the diplomat, reminded everyone that keeping such a powerful force out of German hands was a victory of sorts.

I wonder if anyone was brave enough to tell the good General that it wouldn’t take many of these victories to cost the Allies the war.