Few years ago I had the opportunity to visit this fantastic Winery in Montalcino. I’m still thankful for the great hospitality I had, and that’s one of the reason because I bought this bottle. The company proudly driven by Ms. Cencioni, at that time was 8 HA in the municipality of Montalcino, perched on a hill by the road side from Pienza, simply great.
About the wines, obviously the winery produces Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino as well, and are both very good, but the particularly of this wine it’s that is done from Cabernet and Sangiovese, in a word a Supertuscan. Intense in color, nose and taste let immediately understood that comes from an exceptional soil and from a great passion. It’s perfect with roast meat, so I suggest you to have it with a “Fiorentina” steak, or an aged cheese, from the near Pienza for example.  It is not exactly cheap, but money well spent. Around 50€

A visit to the winery it’s a must

Rate 4/5

See ya

The Wine Insider

I love keeping myself and all of you updated on the growing seasons throughout the world.  It not only gives us a clue to the quality of the upcoming wine vintage, but also a window to the world of wine.  My latest report comes from the Gaja Family Wine Estates, and their three properties in Italy: one in Piedmont and two in Tuscany.

The Gaja Family is very optimistic about this vintage, and have rated the harvest as good to excellent.  Here is more info on the weather conditions and harvest dates:

• Piedmont: A very snowy winter kept the vines dormant, followed by rain in the spring and beginning of June.  This kept the soil moist, and helped it to recover it’s balance from the drought of the past few years.  Summer was hot and sunny, giving the grapes much needed warmth and light.  September experienced some rain, and the harvest was warm and sunny.  Harvest lasted from September 2, beginning with Sauvignon Blanc, and lasted until October 9, with Nebbiolo from the Sori Tildin and Sperss vineyards.
• Montalcino: Two phases of weather trends.  First, alot of rain in the spring with a cold May and June beginning.  Secondly, the temperatures rose, and additional rain in July swelled the Sangiovese grapes.  Dryness came and the heat continued.  The Sirocco wind rushed over the vineyard for about 10 days in August, keeping the grapes dry and cool.  Tramontana winds in September brought the grapes to a dry harvest, held from September 24 to October 10.
• Bolgheri: Very rainy winter and early spring led to a hot, dry summer.  Harvest began on September 3 with Merlot.  Both Merlot and Syrah were completely harvested by September 18.  Five days of rain began followed by a northern wind, which helped dry the grapes.  This occurrence restored balance to the grapes after the hot, dry summer.  Harvest resumed with Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, and concluded on October 7.

Here is a general assessment from Angelo and Gaia Gaja:

“The quality of the grapes this vintage has been optimal.  Even though it’s still too early to predict the quality of the wine they will produce, some are speculating that due to the top quality of the 2009 vintage in several European countries and in California, 2009 could be a repeat of the success of the 1990 vintage.”

This bolds well for the world of wine, especially Barbaresco, Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino, and Super Tuscans.  Now, while it will be over two years until we see most of these wines released, make sure to keep the 2009 vintage on your radar, as this is sure to offer some tasty wine.  I know I can’t wait!

Montalcino, Tenuta La Fuga. La bottaia nel sottoscala della Villa padronale.

Tor Calvano, La Forra, Cabreo il Borgo: anime e corpo in evidenza.

Sangiovese prima dell’invaiatura a Villa Nozzole, Greve in Chianti

Tenimenti Folonari, tenuta di Cabreo a Greve in Chianti.

Una recentissima degustazione trasversale di Brunello di Montalcino ha decisamente rafforzato secondo me il grande coraggio con cui alcuni marchi storici ilcinesi stanno portando avanti ormai da tempo una progressiva modernizzazione del blasone toscano ma allo stesso tempo ha sottolineato quanto alcune altre aziende per modernizzazione hanno inteso esclusivamente “internazionalizzazione”; ben inteso la storica appartenenza al mercato mondiale di questo stupendo vino italiano, il Brunello ha sempre (quasi) avuto un anima ed un corpo inconfondibile che le recenti (più o meno)  modifiche al disciplinare hanno consentito di consolidare il mito nonostante un lungo, chiacchierato dibattito, adottando tra l’altro anche misure concrete a difesa del marchio sempre al centro di possibili contraffazioni in un mercato a volte non proprio sotto controllo. Alcune riflessioni però me le sono (ce le siamo) concesse lo stesso, al di là dei prezzi sempre meno accessibili legati soprattutto a costi ahimè legati a problematiche crude che l’economia Ilcinese non riesce a metabolizzare, con spirito costruttivo e volte anche a cercare un confronto su alcuni temi tipo: Il mito è sempre all’altezza? Quale etichetta per non sbagliare? E’ giusto aspettare tanto tempo prima di berlo? ecco cosa ne è venuto fuori.

La premessa è che per trasversale abbiamo inteso l’assaggio in contemporanea di diversi Brunello di Montalcino di aziende differenti ed annate diverse ma vicine come qualità.

Qui Il rosso ha acquisito una tonalità verso l’aranciato con una bellissima trasparenza, segno del tempo che ha svolto per bene il suo lavoro anche in relazione che la consistenza nel bicchiere non ha perso corpo. Al naso il vino è soprattutto terziario, cioè ricco di profumi dovuti proprio all’invecchiamento con spezie,tabacco,pelliccia su tutto, dopotutto l’azienda è restìa a mettere in commercio questo vino prima dei 36-40 mesi di affinamento in botte, alla vecchia maniera. In bocca è deciso, persistente con un tannino ancora sul nerbo ma ben equilibrato. Mi ha ridato fiducia su un assaggio precedente non proprio esaltante. sui 75 €uro

E’ sicuramente stato un riferimento importante per tutta l’enologia italiana ed altrettando lo è oggi, e la continua ricerca di confronto col presente è un valore aggiunto per una azienda che non si è mai posata sugli allori. Villa Poggio Salvi è ormai un marchio che vive di luce propria, questo Brunello può risultare (è risultato) abbastanza semplice nella sua totalità ma di certo non si può imputargli una correttezza di prezzo notevolissima. Di colore rubino netto, concentrato e poco trasparente nel bicchiere, al naso ripercorre una linearità rassicurante con profumi di frutti maturi, confettura di marasca, caffè. in bocca è secco, asciutto con un tannino presente ma non incalzante, decisamente “rotondo”. €uro 30,00

Brunello di Montalcino ‘99 

Ecco un taglio decisamente più moderno del Brunello di Montalcino, proposta da una azienda che seppur non proprio giovanissima ha virato decisamente verso un Brunello che sia più “morbido” rispetto alla tradizione Ilcinese. Di colore rubino, si percepisce subito che la qualità della materia prima è altissima, concentrato con lievi nuances tendenti al granato. I profumi ricordano inizialmente il passaggio in legno, botti di media capacità di rovere francese che esalta la sua freschezza gustativa nonostante la lunga sosta tra legno e bottiglia poi tendono anche qui a sentori di frutta cotta, liquerizia e fini spezie. in bocca è caldo con un tannino ben domato, mi lascia perplesso solo nell’equilibrio, per il bellissimo colore, i concitati profumi ma una complessità non avallata da lunga persistenza. €uro 30,00

Brunello di Montalcino ‘00 

A gran fatica alla fine è venuto fuori un gran bel vino. Quando si dice che per godere di un vino si ha la necessità di aspettarlo per certi versi sembra essere un eccesso di sacralità, ma necessaria. Il vino è rimasto aperto per almeno tre ore e mezza prima di manifestare “vagiti” squillanti. Il colore è apparso subito bello, concentrato, al naso dopo “l’attesa” si è concesso generoso su frutti maturi come prugna e ciliegia in confettura e sottospirito accompagnati da una nota fine ed elegante di erbe aromatiche infine di tabacco. In bocca asciutto, di buona concentrazione anche di tannino ben presente ma non devastante come spesso accade a vini di questo estratto. Una nota a margine, l’azienda Mastrojanni propone una vinificazione estremamente tradizionale per i suoi Brunello in vasche di cemento prima dell’affinamento in botti d’allier. sui 32,00 €uro

Brunello di Montalcino Castelgiocondo ‘00

Un marchio con oltre settecento anni di esperienza è difficile che smentisca le attese, ma quando si inizia a legare la qualità alla quantità qualche passo falso può accadere (o no?) . Produrre 250,000 bottiglie di brunello non è da molti, soprattutto se è il Brunello di punta dell’azienda che solo nelle migliori annate viene affiancato dalla riserva. La forgia non è male per intendersi, il colore è di buona concentrazione, il naso offre una franchezza immediata su note di ciliegia, di prugna in confettura, di cassis ed in bocca il vino rileva un buon corpo ed un tannino non invadente. E’ un vino però che manca di personalità, manca di quella mascolinità che al Brunello serve per non disperdersi negli anni, in una parola un vino certamente corretto anche nel prezzo ma senza armonia, e credo in una fase già discendente della sua parabola. €uro 29,00

Brunello di Montalcino Greppone Mazzi ‘00

Se il diavolo veste Prada Il Greppone Mazzi potrebbe tranquillamente vestire Missoni. Questo passaggio per raccontarvi di un vino che davvero riconcilia col terroir di Montalcino. E’ pur vero che l’azienda è malinconicamente orbitante nella sfera anglo-australiana dopo la cessione a Constelletions brand (multinazionale del dink e non) ma se i risultati sono questi, tanto di cappello. Il vino è concentrato, polposo ed invitante già all’esame visivo, i profumi sono dapprima austeri, l’alcol inizialmente è sovrastante ma dopo un pò questo brunello sembra scoprire una verve eccezionale: sentori di confettura di frutta, di miritllo, di cassis, penetranti ed avvolgenti le sensazioni di cardamomo e tabacco. In bocca è potente, 14 gradi a tutto tondo per un vino caldo, di corpo ma asciutto e perfettamente bilanciato nelle sue componebti di durezza e morbidezza. Sicuramente con un paio d’anni ancora alle spalle ci darà nuovamente soddisfazioni. €  32,00

Brunello di Montalcino ’01

Un paio di numeri per capirci. Castello Banfi è un colosso da 11.000.000 di bottiglie, circa 900 ettari di proprietà e tra le 22 referenze presenti in carta di questo Brunello se ne producono qualcosa come 660.000 bottiglie. La dimensione non proprio artigianale non vuole essere un pretesto per sparare a zero su questo vino, ma certamente dopo la degustazione non rimane nella memoria come per esempio Il Poggio Alloro riserva ‘99 di recente assaggio o per esempio il crù Poggio alle Mura ‘99 altrettanto eccezionale.Colore profondo, profumi molto evoluti, quasi pompati da una polposità che promette al naso ma in bocca rimane evanescente lasciandosi una scia di alcol che seppur non eccessivo non è supportato da un corredo acido-tannico all’altezza. rimandato, alla prossima annata. €uro 28,00

Brunello di Montalcino  Castelgiocondo ’01

Di ritorno sul marchio settecentenario siamo passati al 2001 del benemerito non certamente consapevoli della poco felice interpretazionbe del 2000. Qui ci siamo divertiti a dirne tanto su come sia fantastico il mondo del vino e dei suoi protagonisti, non prima di aver apprezzato come in un balzo di una sola annata abbiamo assaggiato due etichette che possono essere sintetizzate proprio come croce (la ‘00) e delizia (la corrente ‘01). Colore rosso rubino con lievi accenni aranciati ma ben corredati da una veste brillante. Al naso ci mette un pò per esprimersi al meglio ma sembra eseguire alla perfezione “il mandato” con sensazioni che girano dalla frutta cotta, al balsamico, al goudron fino a note di tostato e di caffè in particolare.In bocca è gradevolmente tannico, di buon corpo e con un frutto delizioso ed avvolgente, sà di Brunello!!Insomma un vino estremamente corretto, senza particolari picchi di entusiasmo ma alla lunga piacevole. €uro 33,00

After the enthusiastic response to the beauties of Toscana, I share with you today some more pictures from this blessed part of Italy.

I start with Montalcino, the famous town of the best Brunello on Earth.

The medieval center is floating on the early morning mist.

Just so that you get a feeling for the geography and the wines, I borrowed from the Wine Spectator the Tuscany wine map that you see next.

The small village of Castelnuovo dell’ Abate is 5 km south of Montalcino.

It is famous for Abbazzia San Antimo,

and for the wine drinkers, for the Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona wine maker.And when you go hungry, Bassomondo is a family run osteria where you can forget the toils of life and enjoy the good side of it!Moving on to the medieval town of Pienza, a relatively unknown jewel a few kilometers away from Montalcino.The square of Pienza takes you back to the medieval times. You can easily forget time and abandon yourself to the miraculous effect of the beautifully preserved surroundings.

The whole town is a brilliant example of what you can do when you respect your past and create a product for international tourism that sells quality and respect for civilization. And in case you get hungry, you do not need to go far, the Enoteca of “Marusco e Maria” will take care of you.

And then you find yourself in the subliminally quiet town of Monte Amiata.

And the railway station to take you away.

On Friday, Franco and I posted the news that the U.S. Alcohol, Tobacco, Tax, and Trade Bureau (TTB) has lifted the requirement of Italian government certification for Brunello di Montalcino imported to the U.S. The lift was agreed after Italian agricultural minister Luca Zaia met with bureau administrator John Manfreda last week.

I am happy to observe that despite the hail of the controversy (like the early-fall hail of 2008, that damaged but did not destroy the harvest; see above), Brunello and its producers — large and small — have emerged intact and healthy.

Looking back at the Brunello affair, in the glow of the Montalcino sunset, I am convinced of two things: that the controversy was a healthy wake-up call for producers (and that, ironically, it helped to raise positive awareness of the appellation abroad); and that, in many ways, it shed light on the importance and strength of the Italian appellation system.

At the same time, I believe the TTB’s response to the controversy was a trans-Atlantic misunderstanding: as the dearly departed Teobaldo Cappellano pointed out in the Brunello debate a year ago, the DOC/G system was created to protect the producers and the territory, not the consumer. And as much as I loath the thought of a Brunello producer “cutting” his Sangiovese with another grape variety, the transgression is a victimless crime as it relates to the consumer. If the consumer likes the wine and is satisfied with the perceived price-quality ratio, s/he is not molested by this misdeed.

The real victims were those producers who remained and continue to remain true to the territory and the territory itself. If unscrupulous enologists and calculating landowners did indeed adulterate their wines, and in doing so, co-opted and misappropriated an appellation tied to the land and the people who created it, therein lies the injury inflicted on their compatriots.

The saddest legacy of the Brunello controversy is the ill will it has created in the microcosm of Italian wine. On the same day that the Italian agricultural ministry issued a statement announcing the requirement for certification had been lifted, Franco (above, right; mentor, friend, and my partner in VinoWire) posted about a “cease and desist” letter he received from a lawyer representing a commercial winery. (For the record, Franco expunged any reference to the winery and wine in his post and I am merely speculating that the winery in question produces Brunello.) But the letter did not refer to something Franco had written: it referred to comments made by his readers! In one of the comments in question, a reader had made a remark about the unusual dark color of the wine by said winery. Has it really come to this? Do behemoth, commercial producers of Brunello really feel so threatened by a comment thread on a blog? Has it really come to this? Must a blogger feel threatened for merely allowing his readers to express their opinions in the comment thread of a blog?

Today, few who reside beyond Montalcino remember that Montalcino and its environs were one of the Germans’s last battlegrounds as they retreated in the face of the Allied advance in the last year of the Second World War. Even before the war, Montalcino and Tuscany were centers of the “red” resistance to fascist rule. Looking back on the whole Brunello affair, I was reminded of a little red book given to me by the mother of three brothers in Montalcino, whom I’ve known well since 1989. The locally published tome is by political activist, later partisan, and then local politician Carlo Sorbellini (above): Le mie memorie (My Memories). His descriptions of the years leading up to the war and the sacrifices made by him and his compatriot partisans during the German occupation are among the most humbly written and most moving narratives I have ever read. Many people shed their blood and gave their lives to protect this unique place: the same mountainous geography that made it a German stronghold also made it a great place to make fine wine after the war. And this Unesco-protected valley is among the most beautiful places in the world.

One thing I know to be true: I heart Brunello and I heart the people that lived, loved, and died to make it what it is today.

Some days are just magical…and yesterday was one of those days. The town came alive as the festivities for Sagra unfolded…each quartieri arrived in the Piazza del Popolo as the names of the archers who would be shooting on Sunday were drawn. Then it was off to the practiice shoot ‘Provaccia’ at the Field of Draught. Travaglio, not our Pianello, won the round and all was ready for the festa on Sunday.

Then we were beyond thrilled to help the women of Pianello prepare for the quartieri dinner…. I relived memories of helping in the kitchen at the Italian American Social Club back home as we spread crostini and helped dry dishes in the kitchen. The evening ended with a long dinner with the amazing quartieri of Pianello as the young archers were celebrated with song after song to cheer them to a win today….magical! Viva Pianello!

I love Italian market days and Friday is market day in Montalcino. Even the foggy, rainy morning did not keep the locals from climbing the hill to the stalls full of cheese, vegetables, fruits, porchetta, clothing and marinated eel. Having been to this market day in the past, I knew to find my favorite vegetable and fruit seller at the top of the hill near the wall and my favorite flower seller with seeds for my garden in the street nearest the fortress. As I wandered among the stalls, a few locals who are now starting to recognize me gave me a wary ‘buon giorno’. Market day throughout Italy is a time not only to replenish stores but to catch up with neighbors and friends …. Wouldn’t it be great if we adopted this custom in America? Well, back to my cappucino… More later as the festa unfolds here in Montalcino! A dopo…

Rainy Thursday morning here in Montalcino. Sitting at Fiaschetteria having my cappucino watching the raindrops softly fall on the Piazza di Popolo. The village is slowly coming to life in the rain as umbrellas hustle by. The storm blew in with a vengence last eve as the wind howled trough the valley tossing the trees and shutters outside my little Casa Vigneto.

Thoughts now turn to the weekend ahead as I have come to be part of the Sagra del Tordo, Montalcino’s big medieval archery tournament. It has been fun to watch the excitement slowly build in anticipation of this weekend’s festa..the ‘quartieri’ flags are now flying and more and more people seem to be about. More as the weekend unfolds… Buona giornata!

(italiatv.it)  Gli USA hanno dato il via libera definitivo alle importazioni di Brunello di Montalcino, dopo le minacce di blocco dell’import in seguito all’inchiesta della procura di Siena su alcune cantine accusate di aver ottenuto il vino da vitigni non conformi alla disciplina di produzione. La notizia arriva il giorno dopo l’incontro a Washington fra il ministro e l’amministratore dell’Agenzia federale Usa per l’alcol e il tabacco, John Manfreda. Gli Stati Uniti sono il mercato in cui finisce un quarto della produzione totale del Brunello, il cui giro d’affari complessivo è stimato in 120 milioni di euro l’anno. Il 18 luglio scorso un’indagine della Guardia di Finanza sotto la direzione della procura di Siena aveva condotto al declassamento a Igt di oltre 1,3 milioni di litri di Brunello di Montalcino. Le indagini, che avevano coinvolto sette cantine, erano iniziate nel settembre 2007 e avevano interessato i più importanti produttori di Brunello di Montalcino Docg e Rosso di Montalcino Doc. Dei 6,7 milioni di litri di Brunello sequestrati, il 20% – oltre 1,3 milioni – è stato declassato a Igt Toscana Rosso. Su un quantitativo di 1,7 milioni di litri di altri vini a denominazione sequestrati (fra cui Rosso di Montalcino Doc, Chianti Classico Docg e Igt Toscana Rosso), oltre il 40% è stato declassato, e 100.000 litri sono stati inviati direttamente alla distillazione. Inoltre erano stati “sequestrati 400 ettari di vigneti sui quali erano coltivati vitigni non riconosciuti dal disciplinare di produzione”. “In estrema sintesi, si può dire che ingenti quantitativi di vino relativo alle annate dal 2003 al 2007 sono stati ‘tagliati o ammorbiditi’ con uve e vini differenti dal sangiovese, unico vitigno ammesso dal disciplinare del Brunello e Rosso di Montalcino”, spiegava una nota delle Fiamme Gialle. Nell’ambito dell’inchiesta sono state denunciate alla procura di Siena 17 persone: otto hanno richiesto il patteggiamento, mentre le altre nove hanno ricevuto l’avviso di conclusione delle indagini per i reati di frode in commercio e falso in atti, in alcuni casi commessi in associazione. Una è stata inoltre denunciata per false informazioni al pm. Soddisfazione per lo slocco in USA è stata espressa dal Presidente del Consorzio Patrizio Cencioni in una nota dal sito ufficiale. (itv-reuters)

Buon giorno, tutti. Once again, I find myself at Cafe Fiaschetteria for my morning cappucino. Yesterday after arriving at Casa Vigneto, I again found myself outside in the waning rays of sun sipping ‘un bicchiere di Brunello’ and listening to the wind whisper across the stunning Sienese valley.

The view of this ‘Plain of Angels’ as it is known continues to take my breath away and I never tire of my time at my little Casa Vigneto, a little house on the hillside nestled amongst Brunello vines. Dearest Enzo who owns the Casa and the vineyard which surrounds it, is busily working the new grape harvest into the magic of Brunello and the aroma of the new wine perfumes the air.

It was the perfect ending for a blessed year as I celebrate a birthday today and consider the possibilities of the year ahead…magical.

Buon giorno, tutti. Sitting at Cafe Fiaschettera in the Piazza del Popolo in Montalcino….enjoying a cappucino as the locals wander in for their morning cafe..pretty special. Join me for a cup? A dopo!

Above: Ale posted photos of grapes (Trebbiano and Malvasia) being laid out to dry on reed mats for the Vin Santo that he and his father are making this year.

Scanning my Google Reader feed this morning, I came across these posts by my friend Ale in Sant’Angelo in Colle. He and his father grow Sangiovese and make Brunello di Montalcino for one of the oldest — and one of my favorite — producers in the appellation, Il Poggione.

Above: The mats are then hung in the vinsantaia, an attic used especially for the drying of the grapes. Windows on either side of the space allow for ventilation that helps to limit humidity during drying.

Reading his descriptions of harvesting and drying grapes for the production of Vin Santo, it occurred to me that Vin Santo is an “orange” wine. There is no canonical definition of “orange wine,” even though a new “orange wine” movement has clearly emerged among European winemakers, mainstream wine writers, fringe wine bloggers (like me), enthusiasts, and lovers. Vin Santo is generally not made using skin contact during fermentation (one of the fundamental techniques employed in the production of orange wine). But there is no denying that Vin Santo is orange in color.

The rich orange color of Vin Santo is created by the drying of the grapes and by intentional oxidation of the wine.

Above: Specially sized caratelli (literally, “small casks”) are used for aging. Many believe that the size of the barrels is one of the keys to the unique flavors and aromas of Vin Santo.

The earliest documented printed reference to Vin Santo is found in Giovanni Cosimo Villifranchi’s Oenologia Toscana (1773). In 1605, Sir Robert Dallington mentions a wine called Zibibbo, which was “dried for Lent” and could possibly be a reference to Vin Santo (see his entire description of grape growing and winemaking in Tuscany here).

Many claim that the name Vin Santo (literally, “holy wine”) was coined in the 15th century when Greek humanist Basilios Bessarion tasted the wine and compared it to the wines of Xantos (see also this entry on Bessarion in the New Advent Catholic Encyclopedia). Supporters of the theory maintain that he liked it so much, he exclaimed “Xantos!” and those present understood him to say “Santo!” But I doubt this is the case.

I’ve heard some say that the name is inspired by the fact that Vin Santo can go through a second fermentation in the spring when temperatures rise in the vinsantaia. Like Christ, the wine “rises again.” I doubt this is the case but Dallington’s reference to Lent leads me to believe that dried grape wines were associated directly or indirectly with Easter in his time.

In 1773, Villifranchi writes: “The name that is given by us today to this ‘Vino di Santo’ is believed by some to be owed to Ancoret saints* and the Monks of Soria [Spain] who originally made wine in this manner.” He adds that “others believe that this name derives from the fact that the grapes are typically pressed during the period of the Christmas holidays.”

Whether you call Vin Santo an orange wine or not, it would seem to pass muster with the natural wine dogmatists. Using a “mother” yeast to start fermentation is a sine qua non of Vin Santo production: after pressing, sediment is scraped from a cask from a previous vintage and then added to the newly pressed juice to initiate fermentation. That’s how they’ve been making Vin Santo for centuries (or at least since Villifranchi first described methods of vinification employed in his day).

The only difference is that in Italy, they don’t call it “natural wine.” They just call it wine.

Look for more on Sir Robert in upcoming posts and check out this cool video posted by Ale on his blog today:

* “The recluses of the East in the early Christian centuries” (OED).

Thanks to friend of mine today I had the opportunity to drink not only a wine, but simply a myth. Biondi Santi is the company that is considered the mother herself of Brunello, which needs no introduction. The wine shows a grainy color discharge but at the same time with intense aromas to the nose reminiscent of licorice. The taste was soft and enveloping, and here the surprise: despite the 28 years of age, the wine is still full-bodied flavor and enveloping almost as if the years had not passed, I will not say young, but just the right age to drink. Footnote taste vaguely reminiscent of tar, but certainly without being disagreeable, and the flint. You would know that this very special wine is subject to the operation of "Ricolmatura" of these precious bottles, according to a notice and a regulation, which include the presence of witnesses. In practice, the wine, which is eaten bottled slightly due to age, is added the same wine of the same vintage. This particular bottle had been subjected to this treatment in 2000. The price? I have not idea, but I can imagine very expensive, but it is one of those follies that must be done once in a life. Trust me

Rate 5/5

See ya

The Wine Insider

Tracie B snapped the above pic of me using my Blackberry the other night, when she came home with an open bottle of Banfi 2004 Brunello di Montalcino in her wine bag (when not otherwise occupied being knock-out gorgeous, Tracie B works as a sale representative for a behemoth mid-west and southeastern U.S. wine and spirits distributor).

The moment of truth had arrived: it was time for me to taste the wine with my dinner of Central Market rotisserie chicken, salad, and potatoes that Tracie B had roasted in her grandmother’s iron skillet.

The wine was clear and bright in the glass and had bright acidity and honest fruit flavor. The tannin, while present, was not out of balance and the wine had a slightly herbaceous note in the finish that might not please lovers of modern-style wines but that I enjoy. If ever there were a wine made with 100% Sangiovese grapes, I would say this were one — tasted covertly or overtly.

According to WineSearcher.com, the average retail price for this wine in the U.S. is $65. I can’t honestly say that I recommend the wine: it’s not a wine that I personally look for at that price point. I did not find this to be a great or original or terroir-driven wine but I will say that it is an honest expression of Sangiovese from Montalcino.

Anyone who reads my blog (or follows news from the world of Italian wine), knows that Banfi has been the subject of much controversy over the last year and a half. But fair is fair and rules are rules and I cannot conceal that I enjoyed the 04 Brunello by Banfi. (Btw, Italian Wine Guy, who is Glazer’s Italian Wine Director, recently posted on 04 Brunello, including a YouTube of Banfi media director Lars Leight speaking on the winery’s current releases at a wine dinner in Dallas.)

Above: Facing south from Il Poggione’s vineyards below Sant’Angelo in Colle, looking toward Mt. Amiata.

Despite the will of some marketers to make us think otherwise, 2004 was not an across-the-board great vintage in Montalcino. In my experience with the wines so far, only those with the best growing sites were able to make great wines in the classic style of Montalcino and wines that really taste like Montalcino.

Btw, in all fairness, it’s important to note that the Banfi vineyards lie — to my knowledge — primarily in the southwest subzone of the appellation, one of the historic growing areas for great Sangiovese. When you drive south from Sant’Angelo in Colle, you see signs for the Banfi vineyards on the right. Earlier this year, my friend Ale over at Montalcino Report posted this excellent series on understanding the terroir of Montalcino using Google Earth. It’s one of the best illustrations of why the wines from that part of the appellation are always among the best, even in difficult years. (Ale’s killer Il Poggione 04 Brunello, which I tasted for the first time at Vinitaly in April, received such glowing praise from one of the world’s greatest wine writers that it caused near pandemonium in the market, prompting wine sales guru Jon Rimmerman to write that it “may be the most offered/reacted to wine I’ve ever witnessed post-Wine Advocate review.”)

Above: Facing north in Il Poggione’s vineyards, looking at the village of Sant’Angelo in Colle (literally, Sant’Angelo “on the hill”).

Franco recently tasted 93 bottlings of 04 Brunello at the offices of The World of Fine Wine in London and wrote of his disappointment with the wines delivered by even some of the top producers. Here are Franco’s top picks and straight-from-the-hip notes, posted at VinoWire.

In other news…

One of the greatest moments of personal fulfillment in my life was when my band NN+’s debut album reached #6 in the college radio charts so I guess that stranger things have happened: a colleague in Italy emailed me last week to let me know that my blog Do Bianchi was ranked #9 in the official (?) list of “top wine blogs.” Who knew?

Thanks, everyone, for taking the time to read Do Bianchi. The blog has been such a rewarding experience for me and it means so much to me that there are people out there who enjoy it.

Vandaag opgestaan met alweer helderblauwe hemel en fluitende vogeltjes. Het weer is alvast schitterend.
Ontbijt in ons hotel (Locanda Del Ponte) valt niks op aan te merken, voor zover je rekening houdt dat je in Italië bent en de voorkeur uitgaat naar zoet ipv zout.
Vervolgens vertrokken naar Siena, gelukkig waren we nog tamelijk vroeg en hebben we parkeerplaats kort bij centrum gevonden. Indien je enigszins parkeerplaats wil vinden in de buurt van toeristische trekpleisters dan is m’n advies om zo vroeg mogelijk toe te komen (toch voor 10u30).
Vandaag was het weer snikheet in Toscane, om 10u30 al temperaturen van meer dan 30°.

Siena is een prachtige stad en tevens een van de belangrijkste toeristentrekkers van Italië.
Wat ik zeker wou zien hebben we gezien: het schelpvormige Piazza del Campo (stadsplein), Duomo di Siena (kathedraal), Palazzo Publico (stadhuis) met Torre del Mangia (102 meter hoge klokkentoren).
Op 1 van de terrasjes langs de Piazza del Campo zijn we ’s middags iets gaan eten, prijzen waren hier meer dan redelijk (probeer dat maar is op de markt in Brugge of Brussel). Zo redelijk dat we ook een flesje Prosecco besteld hebben.Dit was echt genieten.

Na ons bezoek aan Siena terug auto genomen, Emma was intussen in slaap gevallen dus heb ik van de gelegenheid gebruik gemaakt om is naar Montalcino te rijden; het mekka van de Brunello wijntjes, en op zo’n 40min rijden van Siena…
Montalcino is prachtige streek, vooral de laatste km’s naar centrum, gelegen op top van een berg en langs de wijngaarden (Sangiovese-druif) heeft indruk op me gemaakt.
Het centrum van Montalcino heeft overvloed aan enoteca’s (wijnwinkels), die elk ruim assortiment aan Brunello wijnen verkopen, en waar je tevens ook kan proeven.
Om het enigszins leuk te houden voor Emma hebben we geen wijn geproefd, maar heb hier wel een paar flessen Brunello gekocht (Castello Banfi). Om dezelfde reden hebben we ook geen bezoek gebracht aan het Castello Banfi domein, maar dit is zeker nog 1 van m’n must do’s voor de toekomst!
Tip: Wijnbouw in Montalcino is vooral gekend voor de Brunello, maar probeer zeker ook is de goedkopere broer: Rosso di Montalcino. Een van m’n lievelingswijntjes!

Tegen een uur of 16u terug aangekomen in hotel, en dus nog tijd genoeg om te genieten van het zwembad, na alweer een prachtige dag.
Aan het zwembad liep er trouwens een poes rond, die zich maar al te graag liet aaien door Emma. Ze wou ze zelfs meenemen naar huis, en het was niet evident om dit uit haar hoofd te praten

Om de situatie van de avond voordien te vermijden zijn we opzettelijk vroeger gaan eten, zodat we niet alleen in de zaal zouden zitten en ook in de hoop dat het eten op een rustiger tempo geserveerd ging worden.
Deze avond had ik een fles Chianti Classico Riserva besteld, en toen bleek dat de maaltijd weer zo snel geserveerd ging worden hebben we expliciet gevraagd om wat te wachten tussen voor-en hoofdgerecht.

Nog een weetje over de Chianti wijn: een Chianti Classico moet minstens 7 maanden rijpen op eiken vaten (min 12% alcohol), een “riserva” moet minstens 27 maanden rijpen en een alcoholpercentage van minstens 12,5% hebben.
Een “gewone” Chianti DOCG moet zich aan minder strenge regels houden.
Kijk ook altijd of je het logo van een zwarte haan op de hals van de fles terugvindt, dit duidt erop dat de Chianti volgens de regels van de kunst (Consorzio del Vino Chianti Classico Gallo Nero) gebotteld werd.

Moe maar voldaan hebben we deze voorlopig laatste avond in Toscane (in terugreis stoppen we ook 1 nacht in San Gimignano) afgerond. Morgen staan ons alweer nieuwe avonturen te wachten in Rome…

Bezocht:

• Siena
• Montalcino
• Monticiano

Hotel:
Locanda Del Ponte

Km’s afgelegd:
Ongeveer ???

Beoordeling hotel:
Ideale ligging, op boogscheut van Firenze,Siena,Montalcino,..
Mooie kamers, voorzien van al het nodige (airco, tv, massagedouche,…)
Eten was ok, niks speciaals en niet om te onthouden. Had gehoopt om de authentieke Toscaanse keuken te leren kennen maar het eten hier vond ik inspiratieloos.
Misschien was het omdat het nog geen hoogseizoen was maar sfeer in restaurant was er niet, zakelijke bediening en chef kok die voortdurend de indruk gaf dat hij de service zo snel mogelijk wou afwerken.
Bediening in’t algemeen was niet om naar huis over te schrijven, wanneer je bvb aperitief nam op terras aan het restaurant moest je zelf naar receptie gaan om bestelling door te geven. Tweede avond kregen we ook Prosecco geserveerd die totaal niet bruisend meer was. Kwam blijkbaar van fles die al dagen open stond…

Misschien nog een woordje uitleg over Prosecco/Spumante. Ikzelf wist niet wat het verschil was, en heb het even opgezocht:
Prosecco is de algemene benaming voor bubbelwijn. In Prosecco heb je 2  categorieën: Frizzante en Spumante. Dat is een belangrijk verschil bij Prosecco. Spumante heeft meer koolzuur, en dus een krachtiger mousse dan frizzante.
Frizzante geeft aan dat de wijn half mousserend is. Deze variant bevat weinig koolzuur doordat hij zijn tweede gistingsproces niet op de fles, zoals de spumante, maar in roestvrijstalen tanks ondergaat. Doordat deze bereidingsmethode minder arbeidsintensief is, is de wijn ook goedkoper. Spumante is er in twee versies: droog en halfzoet. De laatste ontstaat door temperatuurregulaties waardoor tijdens het rijpingsproces niet alle suiker in alcohol wordt omgezet en de wijn lichtzoet blijft.
In de winkel zijn de twee varianten gemakkelijk te onderscheiden. De spumantes hebben een traditionele Champagnekurk. De frizzantes hebben een kurk met een touwtje er omheen of zijn –heel modern- voorzien van een kroonkurk.

Luce is the first Supertuscan produced in the area of Montalcino, much more famous for the Brunello. The wine it’s composed usually by a 50% of Sangiovese grapes and 50% of Merlot, although the blend at times vary depending upon the season The wine has an intense ruby color with light garnet hues, perhaps due to 10 years of age. The flavor is robust and full bodied but at the same time is able to give a feeling of a certain degree of complexity. The link between the two Sangiovese and Merlot, is certainly well-managed .Surely this wine is a good interpreter of the territory of Montalcino. What a few years ago could have been a whim, creating a Montalicno, the undisputed home of Brunello, a Supertuscan, today is a beautiful reality, imitated and followed by many. For this reason I give my congratulations to Frescobaldi, to which must be recognized on this.

Rate 4/5

The Wine Insider

Above: Bahia Don Bravo’s new Tortilla Soup was too sexy to resist. No trip home to La Jolla where I grew up is complete without a visit to Bahia.

Tracie B and I returned late last night to Austin from San Diego where we met a lot of great people, poured and tasted a lot of great wine at the SD Natural Wine Summit, and caught up with mama Judy, the German Professor, and the Cheese Hater’s mom over dinner at Jaynes Gastropub (yes, even on my night off, I ate there, that’s how much I love it).

Above: Owner Carlos Bravo aka Don Bravo was in the kitchen on Monday when we stopped in with mama Judy for lunch. The carnitas were particularly delicate and tasty, moist and rich on the tongue.

I’ve got a lot of really cool posts on deck, including more from the Natural Wine Summit, a wonderful toasty vintage grower’s champagne shared by a dear friend, and some old and very special traditional-style Sangiovese from one of the most famous producers of Brunello di Montalcino.

Above: Who ever thought beans could be so seductive?

It’s 8 a.m. and I’ve already been at my computer since 6:30, trying to catch up. So I’ll make this post a quickie.

On deck for tomorrow: “Good wine lovers go to heaven, bad wine lovers go back stage.”

In other news…

Excerpts of an interview with Franco — on recent developments in Montalcino — appeared in The New York Times today — cartaceous version. Read it while it’s hot! (And you can read the entire interview here.)

Today, Decanter.com published a post on recent developments in Montalcino, authored by me and my partner at VinoWire, Franco Ziliani (above, left):

http://www.decanter.com/news/287537.html

Above: Franco Ziliani and I tasted some fantastic Franciacorta together last September in Erbusco (before Tracie B convinced me to shave my mustache). Franco has been a great friend, a mentor, and an inspiration. I am proud to be his partner at VinoWire. Photo by Ben Shapiro.

Just keeping the world safe for Italian wine… that’s what we do around here.

It was one helluva way to wake up this morning in sleepy La Jolla — where Botox trumps micro ox — to find that the editors at Decanter.com had decided to publish our post on recent developments in Montalcino and subsequent reports by the Italian media.

I’m glad we got a chance to set the record straight and that I can drink my Vino Nobile tonight with Tracie B at Jaynes knowing that the world is safe for Sangiovese (or maybe we’ll drink the 2007 Selvapiana Chianti Rufina, which is showing gorgeously right now).

In other news…

If you’re planning on attending the San Diego Natural Wine Summit this Sunday at Jaynes, please email the restaurant to reserve. We’re almost at capacity and we’ll have to turn people away if they don’t have tickets. Click here for details and to reserve.

As in Plato’s Allegory of the Cave, the shadows cast upon the walls of a wine cellar outline not reality but the truths of those who live them. Little clarity has emerged from Montalcino, even in the light of Italian officials’s findings in their investigation of adulterated wine there. As outside observers, we see only shadows of reality cast upon the walls of Brunello’s caves.

The following interview was conducted last week via email with a young winemaker in Montalcino who works with and for a small family-run estate. S/he has asked me not to reveal her/his name and so I will simply call her/him Deep Throat. Her/his English-language ability allowed her/him to answer the questions in her/his second language. For the sake of immediacy, I have not made any edits whatsoever to the answers. Read them below as I received them at the end of last week. I doubt we’ll ever know the truth about what really happened in Montalcino but I hope this point-of-view (however factual or speculative it may or may not be) helps us to understand the disparity between what we have been told by the wine media and the perceptions and sentiments “on the ground,” as we used to say when I worked at the U.N. Read and digest it for what it’s worth…

*****

Why did the investigation happen in the first place?

The whole bomb came officially out about 16 months ago. Strategically… just few days prior to Vinitaly 2008. You can imagine what kind of backlash this gave to everybody in the appellation. The Brunello collective stand at the fair was like a war zone… Why did it come out? Likely because it was no longer possible to hide the lack of controls by the Consortium or, maybe better, the lack of actions by the Consortium after finding vineyards, cellars and/or wines not conforming to the Brunello production rules.

Was it because banks were checking on vineyards supposedly planted to Sangiovese and used as collateral in loan applications?

Let’s say that this could surely be a factor… many illegal vineyards were planted with big loans or (even worse) with EU funds. Just to give an example: a hectar of Brunello is worth about 500.000 Euros while an IGT one could be around 100-150.000. Do it yourself: this is very simple math! Only the producers were blaimed for the illegal vineyards and/or wines but those very same wines were tasted and passed at the Tasting Commission (official and external). The vineyards were supposedly checked and obviously passed by Officials form the Consortium, from the “Comune”, from the “Provincia” and I ask myself why nobody there was then involved in the investigation…

Now newcomers to Montalcino (Gaja, Frescobaldi, Folonari) are asking for “relaxed” rules and a more flexible set of rules. Screw you! Did you arrive to Montalcino for the idea of producing Brunello or for the value of the land? Be clear and make a choice. Or be nice and… get the hell out of here!

Or was it because “anonymous letters” were sent to the Siena prosecutor by disgruntled Brunello producers?

I have very good reasons to think that The Letter was clearly sent. This is going on a personal level: it is a very personal “faida” between some of the top managers of thee most visible estate in Montalcino (especially on the US market) and one of thee most radical and straight forward producers. Is David hitting Goliath. But I must say that little David was hitting the wrong enemy this time: is not Goliath’s fault if David’s wines are usually NOT conforming to the mandatory analysis due prior to the tasting at the Official Tasting Commission. The wines must conform to the parameters. Period. If they are out, they are out and you should adjust your winemaking method instead of complaining with the rules if they are not according your personal taste. Orelse… go your way without labelling your wine as a Brunello… but like this… the value of David’s bottles is going dramatically down. And David is already in deep shit with sales.

PS Last minute news: David’s estate is now for sale. But he’s asking way too much.

Has your winery been inspected by Treasury officials? What do they do when they inspect the estate? What technical tools do they use? How often do they visit? What are they looking for?

I cannot talk for other people but our tiny estate was checked several times by several different authorities especially in the last 2 years. I don’t know how much other people has been inspected. We ALWAYS conformed and they ALWAYS came back for more. We had: Tresury officials, Consortium inspectors, Ministry of Labour officials, etc. To make it short: you name it… they came! To check everything… I wonder what they have been checking at the other places. There was no way to get out of it with something out of the line. Of course it makes a big difference if you go and inspect a vineyard to check for the different varietals in July or in December… we got checked last week too for the countless time.

Was the issue yields or was the issue Merlot? Is it true that some were using grapes from Apulia?

The issues were several, being the non-Sangiovese grapes the most important one and the yeald per hectar another one. By the beginning of the investigation, I have personally seen a 4 hectars vineyard (supposedly Brunello) litterally destroyed with a Caterpillar by the owner from a day to another; and another one grafted with a new and different varietal (Sangiovese, this time?) in late June (???). I know a very influential Consulting Wine Wizard that, in order to come and make the wine for the estate of one of the past President of the Consortium, strongly demanded (as a condition to accept the job) to plant some ALICANTE grapes for the color. Come and drive around Montalcino in October and look at the leaves… You’ll have fun!

Wines in bulk were a point too. But we must say that: it is absolutely not illegal to buy wine in tanks from somewhere else. Illegal could be the use of it in some certain ways in the cellar. We must also say that: some of this wine could have been (and IT WAS) used illegally, out of the DOC and DOCG rules. You know… quality and quantity rarely match. Following the Brunello rules, you should not exceed 7 tons of grapes per hectar. Let me tell you that, to have a great juice (as Brunello should demand) it’s hard to go over 4-4,5 tons. Figure it out yourself!

As a small producer of traditional-style Brunello, how do you feel you have been treated in a sea of commercial producers?

As a small producer, we have been treated like we had nothing to say. We felt absolutely NOT represented by the Consortium, neither protected. DOCG means that our Appellation of Origin is Controlled and Guaranteed. This was the only supposed role of the Consortium. None of this things was provided by them: oviously NOT the controls, NOT the guarantee and, sometimes, NOT even the origin. So I am asking myself what is the reason of the Consortium to be. Right now, the Consortium is just a cost for a small producer, and it’s giving no advantages at all. Many people will soon leave, I am sure. We asked them how to act to protect ourselves from this situation, we were told to shut up! The big guys are messing around… and we suffer the real damage, being all commonly treated as cheaters. Our reputation is on the line and they could not care less. It’s hard to accept this, especially when they ask you to shut up, I feel I want to raise my voice from the top of the mountain. They have even payed (BIG MONEY) an very high-ended external press office from Milan to… shut up. With our money too… How pathetic!

You are a litterate person: write a few lines about the origin and the history of the word “Consortium” and you will find very little similarity with the recent image of the Consortium of Brunello.

PS. Is there any other kind of Brunello apart traditional? Don’t think so!

Would weather conditions in the dismal 2002 and 2003 vintages have had such an impact on wineries if growing sites were limited to the south and southwest subzones Sant’Angelo in Colle and Castelnuovo dell’Abate and the Montalcino township subzone?

The problem is that many people planted vineyards only for the sake of investement more than for the love of wine and the respect of a tradition. A lot of people arrived to harvest and bottle the wine with no idea on how and where actually sell that wine. This was the main reason for the price drop: fear and unprofessionalism!

Right after the 2002 harvest, everybody apparently agreed on the fact that the vintage was absolutely not good and not suitable for producing Brunello. You could go around and ask producers and they all would tell you that they were not going to release any 2002 Brunello. The fact is that very few people hold to that word: probably 98% of the producers actually released a 2002 and a single real genius (or a magician… previously President of the Consortium but not the one I was telling about before) even released a 2002 Riserva. Come on! Be serious and give me a break… We are talking about integrity here. Or, at least, we are trying… some of us is trying harder than others!

2003 was hard too and this was surely not helping in this moment as the beginning of the scandal hit Montalcino right after the official release of the vintage. so many importers and/or distributors took the chanche to invest -in moment of great financial crisis- in other (cheaper) appellations while waiting for the great 2004 vintage to come out. We must also thank the Consortium for the dangerous overrating of recent vintages that have been generously given too many stars…

About sub-zones, I am a fervent believer! But you, as owner of a vineyard in Torrenieri, would want this to be written on your label? And you, as a regular but somehow skilled customer, would prefer to buy a Brunello from the sub-zone of Castelnuovo dell’Abate or Sant’Angelo, or one from the lowest vineyards in Torrenieri? You already know the answer: that’s why sub-zones of Brunello are never gonna happen.

What is the future of Montalcino? Will other grapes be allowed?

The future of Montalcino is unwritten. I personally hope for the sudden death of the Consortium and the birth of a free association of producers with total dedication to PR and promotion and absolutely no role in the controls. I would like the controls to be completely made by State offices with less bureaucracy and very fast times of reaction to needs and/or infraction.

Allowing other grapes would mean to betray Mr. Biondi Santi original vision and dream. Dream that became reality and privilege for all of us. Allowing zelig grapes would kill the reality of a truly blessed terroir. We are always filling our mouth with the words “tradition” and “heritage”. It’s now time to stand tall behind our words. I have been doing this since forever. Like this they were doing at my estate before me. Like this they will do at my estate after me. The password is only one. Sangiovese! That’s the true reason why this land is so valuable. Why are they all so blinded by other less important things?

Yesterday I tried this wine, in my opinion good expecially considering it’s not so expensive. Have you ever try it? if yes in your opinion from 0 to 10…. Give your vote!!! Sorry but as soon I’ll find the way to insert a pool I’ll do it.
See ya

The Wine Insider

Rate 3/5

One of Italy’s greatest and most polemical wine writers, Franco Ziliani is first and foremost a friend. He is also a mentor and a partner: together we edit the Italian wine world news blog, VinoWire. He was one of the first to encourage me to expand my own blog and the often self-deprecating honesty of his writing has always inspired me to examine my own perceptions of wine and wine writing. I like to call Franco the Giuseppe Baretti and Aretino of Italian wine writing today. That’s Franco and me, outside the Vini Veri tasting in April in Isola della Scala.

Today, Franco has posted an appeal to the director and president of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino (the Brunello Producers Association), demanding they step down in the wake of the Italian Treasury Department’s findings that members of the consortium have “cheated in commercial transactions” (the culmination of “Operazione Mixed Wine,” an investigation launched by Italian officials in September 2007). In lieu of their resignation, he is calling on the consortium’s estimated 250 members (the consortium does not publish an official number of members) to leave the body.

It is a quixotic appeal, no doubt, but a voice that must not go unheard.

The other day, I was dismayed to read a pusillanimously anonymous comment on Alfonso Cevola’s post on recent developments in Montalcino. “Italians love their ‘crisi,’” wrote the would-be pundit, who identified himself solely as Scott, “and it was wine’s turn after calcio [football] had the headlines for a while. As with all things Italian, life goes on and things work themselves out.”

This sort of stereotypical reductive attitude is entirely inappropriate and frankly offensive in this case. And it was authored by someone who doesn’t read beyond the sports page.

What happened in Montalcino is a tragedy and the omertà — the screaming silence — that followed is doubly tragic. Just go ask the many folks there — old and young (and I have asked them personally) — who have fought vigorously if not always successfully to protect the traditions of their land against the evils of globalization.

In other news…

Some good news has arrived from Montalcino today, in the form of a post by my friend Alessandro Bindocci who reports that the Regione Toscana has approved legislation lowering the maximum yields allowed for Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino.

Plaque hanging outside the offices of the Consorzio Brunello di Montalcino

A few weeks ago, I wote a post on Brunello di Montalcino (read here) in which I discussed ths wine’s characteristics and makeup along with listing some of the finest producers. I thought readers would be interested in learning what some of the top authorities in Italy as well as this country think about Brunello, so I asked several experts in this field to provide me with a list of whom they believe are the finest producers of Brunello.

I asked for a list of ten, letting them know they could add brief comments if they wished. One contributor gave me twelve names, saying he couldn’t get his list down to just ten, while another gave me his list of his top ten followed closely by another ten. No problem- the more the merrier – and it shows you how many excellent producers of Brunello di Montalcino there are.

So without further ado, here are the lists:

Jeremy Parzen – Author of dobianchi wine blog and co-author of vinowire blog. Italian wine writer, educator and marketer, currently living in Texas.

“Based on what I feel are indicative, traditional expressions of Brunello, available in this country… 

• Le Presi
• Il Poggione
• Poggio di Sotto
• Salvioni
• Canalicchio di Sopra
• Paradiso di Manfredi
• Campogiovanni
• Collemattoni
• Caparzo
• Fornace

Alfonso Cevola – author of On the Wine Trail in Italy blog and The Blend blog. Italian wine writer and marketer, currently living in Texas.

• Altesino- cellar worthy
• Angelo Sassetti – ultimate contadina
• Argiano- stylish and elegant
• Costanti – another classic their 2004 reminded me of their 1964
• Fattoi- great pruners and dog trainers
• Il Poggione – Love these guys
• Lisini – classic archetype
• Poggio alle Mura (Banfi) – their ‘71 was so great
• Poggio San Polo –  new young winemaker and energy

Tom Maresca – America’s leading writer on Italian wines, having contributed hundreds of articles on the topic for more than 25 years. Lives in New York City.

• Banfi: great quality-to-price ratio
• Barbi: very traditional house
• Biondi Santi: self explanatory
• Casanova di Neri: elegant
• Ciacci Piccolomini d’Aragona: big, structured
• Donatella Cinelli Colombini: very true to Montalcino character
• Col d’Orcia: great finesse
• Fuligni: a pace-setter in recent vintages
• Lisini: the essence of Montalcino
• Nardi: great strides in recent years
• Poggio Antico: more and more, intensely Sangiovese
• Il Poggione: superb vineyards

Charles Scicolone – Author of the blog Charles Scicolone on Wine. One of America’s leading authorities on Italian wines. Wine writer and restaurant consultant. He lives in New York City.

• Fattoria dei Barbi- Some where between traditional and modren but I think more traditional
• Biondi-Santi -Traditional and one of the best
• Caparzo – Some wines in Traditional style, others modern
• Casanova di Neri – use of botti, small french oak barrels and tonneau
• Col d’Orcia
• Il Poggione
• Constanti- I think he is still traditional
• Poggio Antico- They changed their style went modern with the 2001 vintage -loved the wine before this
• Mastrojanni – in between
• Pian delle Vigne- Antinori

“ I really liked the 2004 Brunello from Banfi- I think it is the best Brunello they ever made. 

“It is difficult to tell the modern from the traditionalist except for Franco Biondi- Santi.

“In most cases the “traditionalists” are using more modern methods and the modern producers less small oak. Some make one Brunello in a traditional style and other in a modern style.

“I find Brunello to be very confusing. That is why I like my Brunello to be 1990 or older.”

Franco Ziliani – Author of vinoalvino blog and co-author of vinowire blog (with Jeremy Parzen). One of Italy’s most important wine writers and arguably the most influential in the country. Lives near Bergamo in the province of Lombardia.

• Case Basse
• Il Greppo Biondi Santi
• Il Colle
• Poggio di Sotto
• Giulio Salvioni Cerbaiola
• Lisini
• Col d’Orcia
• Fuligni
• Gianni Brunelli
• Capanna

Plus others like:

• Il Poggione
• Caprili
• Gorelli Le Potazzine
• Le Macioche
• Sesta di Sopra
• Il Marroneto
• Uccelliera
• Pian dell’Orino
• Salicutti
• Mastrojanni

And finally, my choices (in alphabetical order):

• Biondi-Santi
• Caprili
• Col d’Orcia
• Fuligni
• Il Poggione
• Le Chiuse
• Pian dell’Orino
• Poggio Antico
• Poggio di Sotto
• Sesta di Sopra
• Talenti
• Uccelliera

Do you have favorite Brunello producers? I’d love to read your choices- send them along.