If you are in the mood for a European vacation, you should really consider the area west of Naples in the Campania region of southwestern Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea. While the area is hardly undiscovered it tends to be less “touristy” than many other parts of Italy including Campagnia on the other side of Naples, namely Sorrento and the Isle of Capri described in companion articles in this series. If you’re in the neighborhood, make sure to visit Naples, described in another companion article in this series.

We’ll start our tour in Solfatara just west of Naples. Then we will head west to Pozzuoli and southwest to Baia. We’ll pop up north to Cumae. We finish our tour with some island hopping, first south to Procida, and then southwest to Ischia. The entire area is called Campi Flegrei (Fields of Fire) because it sits on molten lava. There is no reason to believe that volcanic eruptions are a thing of the past. And remember, the area is not far from Mount Vesuvius on the other side of Naples.

Solfatara is a semiextinct volcano whose most recent eruption was in 1198. Its name comes from the Latin sulpha terra for land of sulphur so you know what to expect. Solfatara is hardly attractive, unless you like to look at boiling mud. But as long as you stick to the path you should be safe. On the positive side the escaping vapors have been used for medicinal purposes since Roman times.

Pozzuoli is a fishing town that has become a suburb of Naples, hardly suprising given its proximity. The Greeks founded it in the Sixth Century B. C. Once the home of wealthy Romans, famous residents include St. Paul and Sofia Villani Scicolone better known by her professional name, Sophia Loren. Pozzuoli was damaged by volcanic eruptions during the Middle Ages and again in the 1970s. You’ll want to see the Anfiteatro Flavio (Flavius Amphitheater), Italy’s third largest, that held 40,000 spectators. It hosts evening concerts in the summer.

Baia was perhaps the greatest Ancient Roman resort of them all. All the big shots including Caesar, Nero, and Tiberius had a home away from home in Baia. Cleopatra was visiting when Julius Caesar met his untimely end. For many people part of Baia’s attraction was its thermal, mineral waters famous for their healing powers. Local excavations include the Temple of Mercury, the Baths of Mercury, the Baths of Sosandra, with the semicircular Theater of the Nymphs and a statue of Sosandra, the Temple of Venus, and the Baths of Venus.

Cumae was perhaps the first Greek colony on the Italian mainland, founded in the Eighth Century B. C. You’ll want to see Antro della Sibilla (Sibyl’s Cave) considered by many people to be the most romantic classical site in all Italy. This cave, almost five hundred feet (one hundred thirty one meters) long, was carved out of solid rock. According to legend Sibyl was a prophet granted almost eternal life (as many years as the grains of sand in her handful) but she sadly forgot to request eternal youth. As she aged she shriveled and shriveled; her body fit into a bottle that hung from a tree. She interspersed her prophecies with pleas for death.

Most present Cumae is underground. Make sure to see Lago d’Averno (Lake Avernus), a volcanic crater lake that the Romans considered the entrance to Hades (Hell). According to legend, birds flying over the lake would die from the poisonous fumes. It was on these shores that Virgil wrote The Aeneid. Let’s assume he didn’t inhale.

Right near the coast you’ll find Procida, a densely populated island with about eleven thousand people jam packed into two square miles. This is about one third the population density of Hong Kong but Procida is the most densely populated island in all Europe. Yet Procida is beautiful and relatively undiscovered when compared to the other islands off the coast of Campania. Try not to miss the Good Friday procession, an annual event since 1627. The island and its small fishing village Corricella were featured in the films Il Postino and The Talented Mr. Ripley, filmed in many Campania locations including the island of Ischia, described next.

We will finish our tour of this sometimes lovely area west of Naples at the island of Ischia, probably inhabited for thousands of years. Its almost sixty thousand inhabitants including thousands of German citizens most of whom make a living from tourism thanks to an estimated six million visitors a year. No, this is not one of the undiscovered gems that pop up from time to time. Over the millennia Ischia has suffered many conquests. Among the worst was in the mid-Sixteenth Century when the pirate Barbarossa devastated the island, taking four thousand prisoners in the process.

The Castello Aragonese (Aragonese Castle) is Ischia’s most heavily visited monument. Actually it was built on a rock near the so-called mainland just a bit shy of 2500 years ago. In 1441 the castle was linked to the island by a stone bridge. The nearby beach is fine and its waters may heal your ailments.

The La Mortella gardens belonged to the British composer William Walton and his Argentinean wife Susana, 23 years his junior. It is home to several thousand rare Mediterranean plants. After visiting the garden you can climb the long dormant volcano, Monte Epomeo, bathe in the Giardini Poseidon Terme (Poseidon Gardens Spa), or take a short boat trip to the village of Sant&#8217Angelo on the southern coast.

What about food? Volcanic soil makes food tasty and plentiful and gives wine a special zest. The regional focus is on vegetables and fruits. Tomatoes are served every which way, including pizza and spaghetti of course. You should really taste the mozzarella cheese, made from the milk of water buffalo.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Nero di Seppia (Spaghetti with Black Squid Ink). Then try Coniglio all’Ischitana (Rabbit simmered with Tomatoes). For dessert indulge yourself with Strufoli (Honey Balls). Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Campania wine. Campania ranks 9th among the 20 Italian regions for both acreage devoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine production. The region produces about 64% red and and close to 36% white wine, as there is little rosé. There are17 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Only 2.8% of Campania wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. The G stands for Guarantita, and you’ll find three, the red Taurasi, the white Greco di Tufo, and the white Fiano di Avellino. I have tasted the Fiano and found it to be top of the line. A single DOC wine is produced west of Naples; the Ischia DOC whose region covers the entire island of Ischia and is made from a variety of local grapes. This wine may be red or white. The red may be dry or sweet, while the white may be still or sparkling. Frankly, I’d go with the Fiano di Avellino.

Maybe they can make a Hollywood movie out of this story. There’s nothing like a good Mob-related movie. It’s been a long time since The Godfather, Casino and Goodfellas… TGO

Refer to brief story below. Source: Associated Press

ROME – News reports say three separate anti-Mafia sweeps across southern Italy have netted some 100 detentions and euro240 million ($360 million) in seized assets.

The ANSA and Apcom news agencies say the most significant police raids occurred in Bari, where an entire mob clan was dismantled, with arrest warrants issued against 83 people and euro220 million ($330,000 million) in assets seized.

ANSA says businesses, land, vehicles, racing horses and a London-based online bookmaker identified as Paradisebet Ltd. were seized from the Parisi clan.

In Sicily, police issued arrest warrants against 11 people accused of helping longtime Cosa Nostra fugitive Salvatore Provenzano, who was arrested in 2006.

And in Naples, reports say police seized euro20 million ($30 million) in assets from a Camorra crime clan.

The Swiss have just voted in a Referendum to ban the use of Minarets on mosques in their country (a Minaret is a slender Temple built on top of a mosque from which the Muezzin calls the faithful to prayer). I do not understand why this choice of action has been taken.Minurets are masterpieces of Architecture which not only beautify Mosques but also add a sense of mystery to them. The referendum was passed by a majority of 57% despite calls by the Berne administration that this move will damage race relations and will be in violation of religious freedoms.

Switzerland has 400,000 Moslems and about 4 minarets and has a cordial relationship with the Moslem inhabitants (from Turkey, Azerbajian, Syria and Armenia) living in the country. Now that Minarets have been banned, will Referenda be held on head scarves (the hijab and burka), Church bells, Sikh Temple shrines and the wearing of Crucifixes? If these paraphernalia were to be banned, what would become of the Swiss flag which has a huge cross embossed on it?

Amnesty International has criticized the Referendum as a violation of the rights of the Individual and the validity of the Polls will certainly be challenged in the European courts of human rights as a breach of the right to religion (Article 9) and if the courts hold in favor, it may not be signed into law by the Swiss authorities.

Defending the decision of the referendum, an MP for the Swiss People’s party described Minarets as political symbols and an expression of a morbid ideology. It was the beginning of the imposition of Sharia law in Switzerland and a symbol of separation. With these anti –Islamic sentiments growing in Switzerland, I wonder what the next step will be. The banning of the holy Koran?

Europe and indeed Switzerland have always adopted a liberal and relaxed attitude towards religion. Were Sicily and Spain not once occupied by the Arabs who erected the most magnificent mosques ever encountered in the known world?

When the Normans conquered Sicily in 1060, they kept most of the Muslim architectural buildings and the King of Sicily, Roger 11 retained the Muslim artisans and was so enamored with Islam, that it was rumored he said his prayers in Arabic. He was known behind his back as “the Baptized Sultan”. Most churches in Cordoba and Naples have an Islamic veneer and style.

This is my hunch. The referendum was passed in a fit of pique. Eventually, common sense will prevail through the fiat of the European Courts.The referendum will be held to be incompatible with the provisions of Article 9. Watch this space.

If you are looking for a European tourist destination, why not consider the unique area east of Naples in the Campania region of southwestern Italy on the Tyrrhenian Sea? The ancient cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii have become giant, sometimes open-air museums that display in utmost detail what life was like in the Roman Empire. Make sure that you experience Mount Vesuvius. In a bizarre sense this mountain gave birth to these unique tourist attractions when it erupted in the year 79 and thus preserved its surroundings for eternity. Make sure to see our companion articles on the other areas of Campania including Naples, the territory west of Naples known as Campi Flegrei (Fields of Fire), the Isle of Capri, and Sorrento and the Amalfi coast.

We’ll start our tour in Caserta about sixteen miles (twenty five kilometers) northeast of Naples, the only section of this tour that has nothing to do with volcanoes. Then it’s southwest to Herculaneum about six miles (ten kilometers) southeast of Naples. Afterwards we go northeast to Mount Vesuvius, which permanently transformed this region almost two thousand years ago. We’ll double back to the Bay of Naples and go southeast past the archeological site of Oplontis and proceed to our final destination, Pompeii. Many of these sites are accessible from Naples via public transportation. In fact given the crowds and the drivers in this part of the world, you are better off taking public transportation especially in the summer.

While Caserta boasts an Eighteenth Century Cathedral and a Fourteenth Century Palazzo Vecchio (Old Palace), the main reason that you’ll want to visit this city of eighty thousand is to admire its much newer Reggia di Caserta (Palace of Caserta). This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the Bourbon Kings of Naples and Sicily’s answer to Versailles. With its twelve hundred rooms, one can say it’s at least in the same league. It is perhaps the largest Eighteenth Century building in all Europe. Because the Kingdom was fairly weak when this colossal structure was built, the British historian Edward Crankshaw referred to it as “a colossal monument to minuscule glory.”

The Palace of Caserta served as headquarters for the Allied High Command during World War II. Make sure to see its staircase, said to outdo the one at Versailles, the royal apartments, and the extensive grounds peppered with fountains. The grounds are about three miles (five kilometers) long, and you can take a minibus from the palace to the end of the property. You may recognize the palace from the initial three episodes of Star Wars movies.

On August 24, 79 A. D. Mount Vesuvius destroyed the downwind city of Pompeii and about twelve hours later destroyed the upwind city of Herculaneum as well. When we say destroyed we mean destroyed. Its murderous debris flew at an estimated 60 miles an hour (95 kilometers an hour). In a matter of hours Herculaneum was buried in 65 feet (20 meters) of ash and slag. The intense heat killed people almost instantaneously but did little damage to the buildings.

The Herculaneum ruins were not uncovered until the Eighteenth Century by workers who were digging a foundation for a well. Much of the ancient city remains to be unearthed, largely because the modern city of Ercolano lies on top of it.

Julius Caesar’s father-in-law had a Herculaneum villa that may have served as a library; it contained more than 1800 papyrus scrolls. Maybe he just liked to read. The center of this upscale city was closed to cart and wagon traffic and most sidewalks were covered with awnings. The public bathhouse played a central role in people’s lives.

Visiting Mount Vesuvius is not for the faint of heart. You may choose to stay away in solidarity with its thousands of victims. It’s quite a climb to reach the top. But from the summit the view is beautiful. You will probably find this mountaintop to be even more thought provoking than the usual run of the mill mountaintop.

Mount Vesuvius has erupted on many, many occasions over the centuries. Its last, or more precisely latest, eruption occurred in 1944 when it destroyed several neighboring villages and 88 American B-25 bombers. By far the most destructive eruption was in 79 A. D. when it eradicated the cities of Herculaneum and Pompeii with an estimated loss of life of 10 thousand to 25 thousand in Pompeii alone. This eruption released an estimated cubic mile (4 cubic kilometers) of ash and rock. Subsequent eruptions have spread ash as far as Istanbul located over 700 miles (1200 kilometers) away. When you consider that Naples, a city of more than a million in an urban area of more than three million is only 10 miles (16 kilometers) away there is reason to be worried. Their emergency evacuation plan covers about 600,000 people and assumes a warning period between 2 weeks and 20 days before the actual eruption. The Osservatorio Vesuvio (Vesuvius Observatory) in Naples is constantly monitoring this mountain.

Pompeii is a major tourist attraction and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Here, as in Herculaneum, a city was destroyed in a manner of hours, and yet its very destruction led to its preservation. Pompeii shows you in extraordinary detail the way people lived at the height of the Roman Empire.

There is reason to believe that Pompeii was subject to volcanic activity, landslides, and earthquakes centuries before its ultimate destruction. A severe earthquake, thought to measure about 7.5 on the Richter scale, struck the area on a feast day in February, 62. Virtually all buildings were damaged, and many were still not repaired when Mount Vesuvius erupted in full in August, 79.

Make sure that you get to Pompeii early to take full advantage of the day ticket. The three-day ticket allows you to visit five archeological sites: Herculaneum, Pompeii, Oplontis, Stabiae, and Boscoreale. I’ll let you in on what is hardly a secret: Pompeii was home to a lot of erotic art, some of which is on display in the Gabinetto Segreto (Secret Cabinet) in the Naples National Archaeological Museum. In Pompeii as well many of the exhibitions are simply unsuitable for children.

What about food? There is something about volcanic soil that makes food tasty and plentiful and gives wine a special zest. The major focus here is on vegetables and fruits. Can you believe purple asparagus? Tomatoes are served every which way, including pizza and spaghetti of course. Try to taste the mozzarella cheese, made from the milk of water buffalo.

Let’s suggest a sample menu, one of many. Start with Scarola Imbuttunata (Stuffed Curly Endive). Then try Polpi Affogati (Stewed Octopus). For dessert indulge yourself with Zeppoli (St. Joseph’s Day Filled Doughnuts). By the way, La Festa di San Giuseppe (Saint Joseph’s Day) is March 19th. Be sure to increase your dining pleasure by including local wines with your meal.

We conclude with a quick look at Campania wine. Campania ranks 9th among the 20 Italian regions for both acreage devoted to wine grapes and for total annual wine production. The region produces about 64% red and and close to 36% white wine, as there is little rose. Campania produces 17 DOC wines. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, which may be translated as Denomination of Controlled Origin, presumably a high-quality wine. The G in DOCG stands for Garantita, but there is in fact no guarantee that such wines are truly superior. Only 2.8% of Campania wine carries the DOC or DOCG designation. There are three DOCG wines: the red Taurasi, the white Greco di Tufo, and the white Fiano di Avellino. I have tasted the Fiano and really think that it is top of the line.

The Vesuvio DOC, also called Lacryma Christi (Tears of Christ) is made in multiple styles from several local grapes that grow on Mount Vesuvius. One of Pompeii’s major attractions is the Villa dei Misteri (Villa of the Mysteries) home to more than 60 rooms displaying frescoes, many of which illustrate a young bride’s initiation into the cult of Dionysus (Bacchus), the god of wine and debauchery. In 1996 the well-known Campania wine producer Mastroberdino was authorized to reintroduce some ancient grape varieties on a small plot within Pompeii’s walls. From these vineyards come the Villa dei Misteri made from the historic red Piedirosso and Sciascinoso grape varieties. Relatively none of this wine is exported to North America. So this wine gives you one more reason to visit Pompeii.

Only one perspective for today…

Axman and magic sounds on Via Santa Maria Ognibene.

‘Kick a Jew day’ ends in suspensions for 10 Florida students
By Haaretz Service

Ten middle school students in Naples, Florida have been suspended after taking part in what they termed “Kick a Jew Day” at their school, school district officials reported.

The one day in-school suspensions were served earlier this week.

The incident occurred a day before red-haired students were targeted at a California middle school in what was a Facebook group called “Kick a Ginger Day,” which some say was inspired by the popular American animation series South Park.

The Naples Daily News quoted local school district officials as saying that they will concentrate on cultural sensitivity training, including 20 minutes of homeroom meetings each day at North Naples Middle School, on building character traits such as respect and kindness and on the prevention of bullying.

In the “Kick a Ginger Day” attacks, nobody was seriously hurt and no arrests were made.

The newspaper quoted a local Jewish leader as saying the incidents should result in more than suspensions.

“You are talking about an incident that has anti-Jewish bias if not anti-Semitism. You have Jewish students being singled out, harassed and assaulted,” David Barkey of the Florida Anti-Defamation League told the Naples Daily News.

“If the allegations are true, it is possible these students violated Florida’s new anti-bullying law. And, if students were physically assaulted, it could rise to the level of criminal conduct,” he added.

Rabbi James Perman, of Temple Shalom in North Naples, called the situation “alarming.”

“I can tell you this: I haven’t seen anything like it in my 17 years in Naples. No child deserves this kind of treatment,” he wrote in an e-mail Monday, the paper reported.

“Their parents are understandably outraged. So far it seems that the school system has taken appropriate measures and we applaud their efforts. At this point, teaching sensitive awareness is more important than punishing anyone.”

melancholy…

Nicola Cosentino

Rome, 25 Nov. (AKI) – An Italian Senate on Wednesday rejected a request by Naples prosecutors to arrest junior government minister Nicola Cosentino for alleged links with the local mafia or Camorra. According to Italian media, the committee voted 11 against and six in favour of the arrest, while one committee member abstained.   

“Red, White, and No More Blues!/Recovery Never Tasted So Good”

Naples, Fla. – In a grocery store

November 25, 2009

Taken by John Forrester

(flickr/johnsforrester/all rights reserved)

There are  so many people who would like a day trip in Pompeii when they are in vacation in Rome. The most easy but also more expensive way is by limo service, but they will spend more then 2 hours on the motorway.
Use public transportation is less expensive in the link www.rometopompeii.altervista.org, there are not just transportations info as trains, but also suggestion how to visit this famous archeology town, how much it will cost, discounts, guides, and much more.
To spend a week in Rome without to see Pompeii, is the same of to get in Venice without to see San Marco square

After the many stories (mostly daunting ones) I have heard about Naples, I’m glad that we did make a stop for a day to have a feel of this ‘interesting’ city. Never have I heard as much honking or seen as much graffiti on buildings and monuments in a place. However after spending the day here, I found that there was more to this city apart from the rugged side of Naples.

Setting off from Piazza Bellini, the square just right in front of Hotel Piazza Bellini, where we stayed the night before, we head down Via Santa Maria di Constantinopoli and take a right onto Via Port’Alba. This street is where one will find Naples’ oldest bookstores.

‘expressive art’ everywhere…

bookshops and bookstalls lined on both sides of Port’Alba

browsing through the books for sale

heading out of Port’Alba onto Piazza Dante 

Port’Alba opens up into Piazza Dante, named after Dante Alighieri, an Italian poet of the Middle Ages.

statue of the poet Dante Alighieri                       the metro sign at Piazza Dante

locals relaxing on the benches of Piazza Dante

From Piazza Dante, we head towards La Pignasecca, one of the oldest markets of Naples, situated along Via Pignasecca and Via Portamedina. It is indeed a colourful sight of fresh fruits and vegetables, fishmongers selling a large variety of fish, and deli and pastry shops in every corner.

hustle and bustle…. and look at the huge loaf of bread!

locals in the midst of their daily marketing

(left) fresh green vegetables; (right) fruit seller head balancing…. & throw!

(left) giant chunks-of-cheese ; (right) sfogliatella pastry with ricotta cheese & fruit bits from Pastiecceria Scaturchio

widespread variety of fresh fish at Pescheria Azzurra

a busy fishmonger at Pescheria Azzurra

narrow streets off Pignasecca

Leaving the market and continuing south along Via Toledo, we enter Royal Naples. On the right is the Umberto I Gallery, a cross-shaped shopping gallery with a steel and glass interior which is said to be remarkably impressive.

dried red chillies at a souvenir shop along Via Toledo

entrance of Umberto I Gallery

taxis queued up outside the shopping gallery

Opposite the gallery is Castel Nuovo, built in the 13^th century originally as a royal residence and fortress. Today it houses art paintings by Neapolitan artists. Just ahead is Piazza del Plebiscito, the largest of the city’s public squares used for major events and concerts. The Royal Palace stands on one side of the square, with the eight statues of past kings. Facing the Royal Palace is the San Fracesco di Paola Church, a neoclassical replica of the Pantheon in Rome.

Castel Nuovo

open space of Plaza del Plebiscito

the Royal Palace and the row of statues of past kings

With the Royal Palace on the left, continuing on pass the square brings us to the port with the view of the Bay of Naples.

 the Marina with Mt Vesuvius in the background

blue waters of the Bay of Naples

boats at dock

love locks

Naples attractions map

Napoli, Via Parthenope

This is a quick update inviting readers to go to another SjIdeasEtc blog to see frequently updated photos of places to visit and events to attend while in Southern California.  wwwSjIdeasEtc@Blogspot.com has links related to the photos but very little text. It’s a blog that was started to provide glimpses of color in the world around us via images. I am hoping to renew people’s awareness of the value of color in their lives. Color is so dominant that we accept it and forget to appreciate it’s impact on our well being.

]]> http://lesnapshots.wordpress.com/2009/11/23/naples-about-pompeii/ Mon, 23 Nov 2009 12:03:22 +0000 lechua http://lesnapshots.wordpress.com/2009/11/23/naples-about-pompeii/

Pompeii, a city buried from the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79AD, is considered by many as one of the top archaeological sites in the world. The excavation efforts made to uncover 6 metres high of ash and rock have led to the rediscovery and restoration of this ancient city. Pompeii, a UNESCO World Heritage site covers 66 hectares of land, 44 hectares of which have been excavated. A walk through this city feels like a journey to the past, and one would need to be there in its surroundings to believe that this place was once a thriving city of buildings and homes. 

We take the Circumvesuviana train from Sorrento which stops at Pompeii midway (half an hour’s journey) to Naples. Upon purchasing the entry ticket € 11.00, we are handed a guidebook and detailed map of the area. It probably takes about 6 hours to cover the entire city; the map is useful in highlighting the key spots to visit for those who have less time to spend. 

Porta Marina, the entrance gateway with its two arched openings

 the Temple of Apollo, the most ancient sanctuary in Pompeii 

the Forum, the city’s main square, with Mt Vesuvius in the background 

the Forum taken from the opposite end, where the Temple of Jupiter stands 

remaining columns of the Forum 

the high podium of the Temple of Jupiter  

view of Vesuvius from Pompeii   

city divided into regiones (neighbourhoods) 

ruins of what was once houses of the inhabitants

 Thermopolium of Vetutius Placidus – one of the many thermopolia (‘public snack bars’) that served hot food and drinks

erotic paintings on the walls of the dressing room of the Suburban baths

a water tap

 cobbled streets of Pompeii

group of travelling priests gathered together at the small theatre after an impromptu choir performance - the small theatre supposedly had a roof and was known to provide excellent acoustics

the exterior of the large Amphitheatre once used for gladiator battles

the plaque at the entrance of the Amphitheatre, in honour of the duumvirs (highest adminstrators of the city) who built the theatre

the wide arena of the Amphiteatre

Porta Nocera the southeastern gate of the city, situated at the beginning of Via di Nocera leading into the city

walking amongst the ruins

UFO sited by approximate 40 people on the Big M Casino Ship. I have exclusive video!

UPDATE: Here is the video, and the mystery is solved!