The first thing I want to discuss is packing.  Before I left I did a lot of research about things to take with me for the Everest Base Camp trek via Google. Three things I discovered during this process that would never have crossed my mind to take is sock liners, a buff and a spare pair of shoelaces.  The entire packing process was a struggle as I knew I could only take around 12kg in my backpack on the trek that the porter would be lugging around and a bit extra in my daypack that I would be carrying myself.  It was also a challenge as I also had to pack for the rest of my trip which was two weeks travelling from Kathmandu to New Delhi.

At a high level, my packing list for the trek looked like this:

- Backpack.  I took my trusty, well traveled Berghaus Jalan, similar to this.  Mine has wheels on the bottom of the pack which I think are a great feature.

- Day pack.  I purchased mine from Kathmandu and it is similar to this model.

- Hiking boots. I got North Face boots from backcountry.com.  In Australia they were $300+ and I was able to get them online for $120 + shipping. I used a parcel forwarding website called shipito.com

- Trainers to wear around the lodges.  In Nepal you can pick up knitted booties (fleece lined on the inside) that also work a treat, they cost less than AUD$5.

- Sock liners x2. I found mine at at Paddy Pallin.

- Thick hiking socks x2.

- Sport socks x2.

- Thermal pants x2.

- Thermal tops x2.

- Running t-shirts x2 (the styles that wick away sweat).

- Thermals x2 for sleeping.

- Underwear.

- Shell jacket.

- Waterproof jacket.

- Fleece zip up top.

- Down jacket.

- Hiking pants x2. I had the style where you can zip them off to wear as shorts and also fold up to wear as 3/4 pants.

- Gloves (I picked up another set in Kathmandu that are more like mittens but they go over your gloves, there are some mornings when you set off in the darkness and sub-zero temperatures that you’ll be thankful for them!).

- Beanie (one with flaps that go over your ears).  You’ll likely be sleeping wearing it.

- Buff – a buff is probably the handiest thing I had, you generally wear it around your neck and can pull it up over your face as otherwise you’ll be eating dust on the trails, especially when a yak train is coming past or when the winds pick up in the afternoons. It also makes a handy headband. In Melbourne, you can pick one up from some outdoors shops like Paddy Pallin, or they are easy to come by in Kathmandu or even Namche Bazaar if you forget before you hit the trails.

- Sleeping bag and liner. I rented a sleeping bag in Australia for around $120 for a month that was rated to -20 degrees celsius and I was so thankful for it!  The rooms you sleep in are not heated and at the time of year I was there sub-zero in the rooms were common.

- Trekking poles. I picked mine up in Kathmandu for around USD$8 per pole.

- Water bottles. The general consensus is not to use water bladders as the water will freeze easily in the tubes. I bought two 1L bottles, one Nalgene and one from Kathmandu.

- Water sanitisation tablets. These are recommended as buying water bottles along the way is strongly discouraged due to waste.

- Medication including iboprufen and Diamox should you choose to take it for altitude sickness. Other items to consider include Stepsils, cold and flu tablets, gastrostop, hydralite, ginger tablets (I swear by these to settle nausea). When I visited my doctor before I went I was given a kit that included various medications (especially those used for treating gastrointestinal issues). One item I found invaluable on the health front is to download the ‘Travel Health‘ app if you have an iPhone (there is also a book version). I was so reliant on it to treat various ailments along the way, and especially being in the Himalaya where there are limited facilities.

- Sunscreen. Don’t let the cool temperatures deceive you.

- Sunglasses. I’d recommend ones are polarised, that wrap around and cover as much as possible. Keep them in a sturdy case to avoid breakage.

- Swiss army knife. I take mine on every adventure.

- Toiletries. The less the better. I kept my hair in a plait every day for a no fuss approach as I only had the chance to wash it twice in two weeks and then every day I simply wore tinted SPF moisturiser (I used Clinique Moisture Surge), mascara and SPF lip balm.

- Baby wipes. When you can’t shower for a week these will become your best friend.

- Small microfiber towel.

- Toilet paper.

- Blister kit.

- Snacks. For me this was muesli bars and chocolate. You can choose to bring comforts from home or pick up supplies in Kathmandu.

- Camera, phone and chargers.

- Book and diary.

- Head torch and Maglight torch.

- Pack cover for backpack and daypack. This is another item that may not be first to mind for people, but when it snows (or rains) you want to keep all your gear dry!

- Stuff sacks to keep any dirty or wet gear separate.

- Packing cells for camera, phone, chargers, batteries etc.  A tip I read before I went was to put all these things in your sleeping bag at night to help prevent batteries draining so on the trek we all did that, and keeping the gear in a packing cell means it’s not floating around your pack or sleeping bag.

- Space bags. These are a must have for me on all my travels.  You can kneel on them to squeeze all the air out and use the tab to seal them, and it saves so much space in our pack and they help keep everything organised.

Now to start blogging about the actual adventure…

The AC trek starting point is in a city called Besi Sahar. The bus ride to Besi Sahar was a little more enjoyable than the bus ride to Sayafrubensi-the start of the Langtang Trek-because it was shorter, we had the front of the bus, and we were not scaling a mountain.

Back a couple of years ago all people walking the AC had to start in Besi Sahar, but in recent years, Nepal has started building a road connecting the villages along the original AC trail. With this and because of our delays in Pokhara we decided to take a jeep from Besi Sahar to Syange. Essentially, our 3 hour jeep ride to Syange took 1-2 days of walking off the trek. So our AC trek started in Syange.

Below is a recap of the days we spent trekking in the Annapurna mountains:

Day 1: Bus from Pokhara to Besi Sahar took about 4 hrs. Jeep from Besi Sahar to Syange took about 3 hours. We arrived still pretty early so we decided to walk a little up the path and stopped at Jagat. The walk took us only 45 minutes and we could have walked longer but it was raining so we decided to stop. We’re glad we skipped from Besi Sahar to Syange. All of the hikers we passed were constantly covering their faces from the dust the jeeps kicked up and the path isn’t that interesting that low in the mountain. We met our first group of trekkers this night. Some of them had already been on the trail for a day or two. But all the people we met this night we bumped into every so often for the rest of the trek.

The start in Syange.

The hotel the first night and our map.

Day 2: Up early, of course because Dave is involved, and on the trail at 7:15 am. We stopped for lunch in the village called Karte and then continued to Bagachhap. We arrived in Bagarchhap at 2:30pm. We decided to call it quits here because it was raining again. Bagarchhap was not the prettiest village on the trek, but they had a bed and food and those were our only needs. If we were to do it again, we’d go to the next village of Danaque or Timang. There are more guesthouses in both. Timang has some pretty awesome views as well.

Starting the trek early so we have it all to ourselves.

There are many waterfalls along this whole trek.

Road construction. Some of the places they were jack hammering where pretty scary.

The city of Tal.

We don’t know how this cow got stuck on this rock, everywhere else around it was very steep.

Checking our progress.

View from our lunch spot

The Tibetan bread on the annapurna trek is different from the langtang trek. Here they make fried dough. Very yummy.

One of many bridges for crossing the rivers.

A lot of the villages have their power from hydro plants not far from the village.

Day 3: We got a little surprise in the morning. The previous afternoon it was pouring, sleeting, and snowing for a majority of the afternoon and evening. We were thinking it might continue into the following day, but, we walked outside and had clear skies and our first high mountain views. We had another early start and were on the trail by 7 am. We both like starting pretty early for two reasons; 1. the trail is empty if you’re the first one on it. 2. it’s cooler in the mornings. We stopped for lunch in Chame, which is the last big village for many miles so we had a tough decision. Call it quits early, it was only 12, or have a long day and make it to the next large village. We were feeling good so we when for it. Almost 5 hours later we reached Dhikar Pokhari at 4:45pm. That was a long hall between Chame and Dhikar Pokhari. Overall we trekked 10 hours this day, with an hour break for lunch. I didn’t want to do that again. Also, Dhikar Pokhari was cold. We had gained a lot of elevation and now had some really cold nights.

Clear sky and no more rain.

Heading out

This water fall was huge and in two parts, this is the lower part

Upper part of the falls

Timang village. if only we could have got here instead. beautiful.

Little did we know how much better the views get.

This is a good shot of the road trekking.

Dave found a tomato on the road from one of the jeeps. Bonus.

Snow capped peaks

One of the villages with some really green pastures and snow capped peaks.

Even though the road is connecting a lot of the villages, there are still a lot of transport by mule.

Lunch of fried noodle and spring rolls.

Also still carrying things up by man power.

At some point there was an avalanche here. Glad it happened before we arrived.

More road construction.

Probably the creepiest place to work. That edge is a drop off and those are ladders leaning against the rock. No thank you.

Finally arriving at camp with some tired legs.

Day 4: Our previous long day essentially put us a whole day ahead of our fellow trekkers we’ve met along the way. Most of them stopped in Chame or one of the single tea house villages between Chame and Dhikar Pokhari. So, we headed out at 7:15 again, had lunch in Mugje, and arrived in Manang at 2:30 pm. Manang is one of the largest villages on the trek and the largest village before the ascent to the pass. They even have a movie theater in Manang. It’s not more than a projector and some old movies, but we hadn’t seen a movie in many, many months so we had a date night. We went and saw 7 Year in Tibet with popcorn and tea included! It was cool.

Soaking up the sun in the freezing morning

The saw mill. Yes, they cut it all by hand. It’s exhausting watching them.

Mountain dog, one of the cuter ones we saw.

Always stopping for the mules.

Seabuckthorn juice. This juice is from a fruit that grows only at higher elevation. It was yummy.

Our view for lunch.

Large streets of Manang.

Date night.

Day 5: Most people have an additional day in Manang to both rest and help with acclimatization. Manang is at 3500 m (11,545 ft). We did that. We did some short day hikes to also help with acclimatizing. We even had enough time to clean some of our clothes. I think it was the best location I’ve ever done laundry. They also have a couple of bakeries in Manang that make some good pastries, cakes, and pies. We really enjoyed the apple crumble pie.

Day hike towards Gangapurna glacier and peak.

Manang from the day hike.

Coolest place i’ve ever washed my clothes

Much deserved apple crumble.

View from our room.

Day 6: We departed early again and were on the trail at 7 am. Since we were now so high up in the mountains we were moving pretty slow. We didn’t have a long day either. They recommend to go up slowly and stay over night to help your bodies adjust to the elevation. We only hiked for 4.5 hours and arrived in Ledar at 11:30 am. Ledar is at 4200 m (13780 ft). We had plenty of time to hang out, read, and enjoy the scenery. We even got to watch a snow storm. Normally, we love snow and would welcome it (I know all you New Englanders are thinking we’re crazy) but we were afraid the snow would stop us from being able to go over the pass. If there is too much snow you can’t see the trail and it becomes dangerous. We also shared the tea house with a big group of people from Israel. I think Israelis win for having the most people on the mountains. We didn’t know this before, but they all love trekking and we met and saw many on the trail. Anyway, the big group hovered around the wood stove and therefore we were freezing. We opted to sit under the blankets in our room to stay warm. It sure is chilly up at 4200 m.

Tharong La is the name of the pass.

Snacking on peanut butter crackers.

Soaking up the sun and reading my book.

Sleepy, bored Dave. The short days are hard for him. Too much sitting around.

Blizzard.

The yak doesn’t mind.

Trying to stay warm while everyone else hogs the wood stove.

Day 7: We were on the trail at 7 am again. We were freezing and had to layer up. It was a very cold morning, but, so very beautiful with the snow covered mountains. Thankfully, there were only a couple of inches of snow on the ground and the trail was still visible. We took our time to the next village and enjoyed the scenery. I think this was our prettiest day. We even got to see blue sheep-not sure where the name comes from, they look like goats to me. Anyway, we arrived in Thurong Phedi at 9:30 am and I wasn’t feeling like myself. We had just passed a huge portion of the trail that warned you to watch out for landslides. The snow was melting and I was a little freaked out by the prospect of a huge boulder taking me out-a side note here, while we were in Manang we overheard a guide tell their group that a horse in this area was split into two from a boulder that had come down-so I briskly walked through the landslide area, which made me lightheaded. I was feeling a little lightheaded, had a minor headache and felt dizzy so we weren’t sure we should continue up to the high camp at 4900 m (16076 ft). We had met a couple in one of the villages on our way up, their way down, who had altitude problems to the point they were thinking of calling a helicopter, so we were ultra aware of the symptoms and what we should be looking for. Anyway, we decided that we should try to go up to high camp and see how I was feeling. If I was feeling bad we would head back down. It was only an hour away and it was only 10 am, plenty of time. Well, I had to stop every 5 minutes to stabilize myself. I was feeling very dizzy and didn’t want to fall down the mountain since it was quite steep. We decided to head back to Tharong Phedi and spend the night and see how I felt the next morning.

The snow from the previous night made everything so beautiful looking.

Blue sheep

Male blue sheep.

Perfect weather.

Mountain dog

This poor dog had dreads. I’m not sure how he could see either.

Day 8: I wasn’t feeling any better. I was actually feeling a little worse so we decided to go back down to Manang. We were undecided if we wanted to retry the pass in a couple of days or just head down the mountain.  It only took us 5 hours to get down to Manang. We got to see another movie and eat more apple crumble. I think those two things were keeping us in better spirits. I was still not 100%, but on top of that I was feeling pretty disappointed in myself for not being able to head over the pass. We were higher in Peru and I had no problems! We were in Langtang a few weeks ago and I had no problems. No to mention Dave was disappointed as well because he was feeling good and could have gone over no problem. Anyway, we got over it, as it was the correct decision to be safe rather than risking altitude sickness and the views up to Tharong Phedi were amazing. We had decided to just head out. Both of us were a little sore, tired of being cold, and had our Himalaya fill from both treks. Besides, this gives us a reason to come back and try it again someday.

Mountain goat

The horses have a layer of fur on them to keep warm.

Day 9: Left Manang early and did the walk of shame down to Chame. It was funny chatting with other trekkers heading up. They all were concerned the pass wasn’t open and that is why we were headed down. And then once they found out I showed signed of altitude sickness they wanted to know how I knew. Everyone is concerned for the same things. Anyway, it was a very long haul back to Chame. It only took us 7.5 hours, but the distance was our longest yet and we were tired. The good news was we could take a jeep from here thanks to the new road.

Since we headed down, we got to take some better pictures of the road construction. Pretty crazy.

This is a picture of the typical nepali food, daal bhat. Which consists of a lentil curry, rice, and some sort of vegetable. You usually get two servings of everything as well, which is good for hungry trekkers.

Day 10: The jeeps they use to drive people back and forth from Besi Sahar are 9 passenger jeeps. They fit 12 people in these things, four people per each seating row including the front with the driver. We wanted the front because we thought we’d have better luck with space, but turns out they fit four there too. The driver had to shift between myself and the other women next to me. But, with all those people in the jeep you don’t move much when you hit bumps or take corners. The jeep ride took 6.5 hours and it wasn’t that comfortable, but it was either that or walk another two long days out. We arrived in Besi Sahar early enough to take a bus back to Pokhara. Whew, it was nice to be back in our spot. That’s the longest trek I’ve ever done and it sure was beautiful, but I was glad to be done.

Waiting for the jeep.

Mules waiting for their luggage.

Four across.

Waiting for our bus back to Pokhara!!

For those curious to what we brought if you’re planning on trekking in March-we were there from March 9-17th.

1 – sleeping bag – We opted for one sleeping bag, but ended up using blankets. All of the guests houses we stayed at gave us extra blankets if we asked. The sleeping bag was more for if something happened and we were stuck on the trail not near a tea house.

2 – down jackets – We had rented down jackets again, which were very useful. Once you go higher than Dhikur Pokhari it is very cold at night.

3 – rain gear – jackets and rain pants

4 – thermal underwear and wool sweaters

5 – One pair of quick dry pants, two t-shirts, one long sleeve shirt, three pairs of socks, and 2-3 pairs of underwear

6 – winter hats and gloves

We opted to go light as we had no porter or guide. Both of those are not necessary, but if you can afford it a porter would have been nice. Dave, who was my porter, didn’t really enjoy the heavy bag.

I think that’s all. We love you Himalayan mountains and we will meet again someday!

Until next time…

Today is the day!  The hike to tourist base camp took us about 2 hours over relatively flat terrain covered by large, loose granite rocks along the edge of the valley (which has been the trend for a few days now).  Base Camp is a seemingly random area in the center of the valley surrounded by looming peaks, pools of icy water and the massive Khumbu glacier covered in granite stones.  Prayer flags tied to rocks and a banner reading “Everest Base Camp, 2012″ create the backdrop for the million photos taken each day to prove personal success.  Some complain it is anticlimactic reaching base camp as you can not even really see Mt. Everest from here, but I was to happy to care.

Empty tents at base camp.

We snapped our photos, listened to people phone relatives bragging of their whereabouts, and watched a shirtless Kiwi man do the Haka.  This is the end of the line for most trekkers, as their guides turn them around to head back for Gorak Shep.  Not us.  The actual base camp was visible a few kilometers out, marked by scattered orange tents at the edge of the valley and we had been told Japanese and Polish expeditions were currently attempting to summit.  We decided to go for it as it would feel incomplete coming this far, having the real thing within eyesight and not going for it.  We concocted a story in case we were hassled upon arrival that Emil, a Polish-Canadian who speaks Polish fluently, worked for the Polish media and we were on assignment to cover the expedition.

Severed hand from a man who died on a summit attempt.

So we set out, teetering over rocks through the glacier trying not to fall into pools or break our ankles.  When we arrived at the orange tents 45 minutes later we were stopped dead in our tracks at the sight of a severed hand, petrified skin still gripping the fingers laying on a rock.  A few Sherpas were sitting nearby and informed us that this man had died attempting to summit some time ago, and his hand remains at base camp as a symbol to command respect for the mountain and to remind of its omnipotence.

The camp appeared empty, and the Sherpas explained that the expeditions were currently up at higher camps, making the long journey back down after a failed summit attempt the night before.  They didn’t hassle us at all and we were free to poke around at will.  The silence and stillness of this place was like nothing I had ever felt and I became overwhelmed by thoughts of the death that surrounded it; how many people have fallen victim to the mountain, leaving their tent one night never to come back.

October 17, 2012.  Day 12.  Gorak Shep (5,164m/16,942ft) – Kala Patthar (5,550m/18,209ft) – Labouche (4,950m/16,240ft)

View from Kala Patthar of Mt. Everest in the center with Nuptse on the right.

Kala Patthar is the highest point of the trek and gives the best view of Mt. Everest from the Nepal side (much better views are to be had from the Tibet side, reportedly), but she was a bitch to climb.  Being the highest point so far it was also where oxygen was at its scarcest, and as most of our recent hikes have been over decently flat terrain, Kala Patthar was straight up for 2 hours straight.  I was exhausted, bored as all hell from staring at nothing but my feet, one in front of the other, gasping for breath, freezing in the icy wind, but eventually reached the top and collapsed on the rocks at the top of the world.  I lay there sheltered from the wind basking in the beauty of the Himalaya and high on life.  I was incredibly relieved, yet a bit sad that the journey I had been waiting so long for was coming to an end.  I would be making way back down to Kathmandu, back through Labouche this afternoon.

On Kala Patthar

The boys and I rewarded ourselves by staying in the nicest lodge in Labouche that night for 2,000 rupees ($23), a price that was sky high compared to our usual $2 per night rooms.  We ate a hot, carbo-loaded dinner, spent time posting photos and bragging on the internet, and laid in our warm beds watching Robot Chicken on the iPad.  Tomorrow I would split off on my own and head back down to Namche then Lukla while the boys crossed over Cho Lo Pass to do the Gokyo region.  I was ready for lowlands and warmth.

October 18, 2012.  Day 13.  Labouche (4,950m/16,240ft) – Namche Bazaar (3,445m/11,302ft)

I had never been so happy to be sitting in a cafe in all my life.  My entire body is sore and lifeless, my thighs chaffed and feet absolutely throbbing and covered with blisters.  What a day.  Left Labouche this morning at 8 AM, bursting with energy as my lungs were replenished with thickening oxygen with each step to lower altitude.  Reached the treeline at Pheriche in 2 hours flat, leaving behind the tricky rock paths for grass, meadows and fields.  Pheriche to Tengboche was all down-hill through trees, foliage, yak caravans and people huffing and puffing on their way up.  Poor bastards – I didn’t envy them at all!

I had been making great time and spirits were high, but the trail became more difficult and draining after Tengboche.  I was slowing down, burning through energy and now in a race with the sun.  I had to reach Namche by sun down or I would be out all alone in the bitter cold and pitch dark of the trail.  This last leg was relentless and never ending - every switchback I thought to be the last one only led to more trail, and there was now nobody within eyesight in front of or behind me.  All it would take is a slip or twisted ankle to leave me stranded out here all alone through the night.  I was getting very nervous and kept picking up the pace though already exhausted.

My room at Namche

By 6 PM I had caught up with a Dutch family just as the sun disappeared behind the hills and we came upon the village; I had never been so relieved.  I checked into a lodge, chowed down a pizza at Everest Bakery, caught up with some friends via Skype and was invited down to the Irish Pub by the internet cafe boy, Santosh.  He was handsome, late 20′s, leather jacket and a black beret, smoothly smoking a constant spliff.  We had a few drinks, talked about life, religion, work and travel.  Played a few games of pool with his friends and some American girls I met on the trek before he walked me back to my lodge and kissed me on the cheek before I went inside.

October 19, 2012.  Day 14.  Namche Bazaar (3,445m/11,302ft) – Rest Day

My body was still recovering from yesterday’s 10 hour shit show and I knew I couldn’t make the push to Lukla today.  Slept in, took a hot shower and spent the day eating, drinking cappuccinos, reading, writing, sunbathing, and watching the internet cafe boys offer Nepalese pot to patrons.  Rules are a bit different in the highlands of Nepal than back in America..

October 20, 2012.  Day 15.  Namche Bazaar (3,445m/11,302ft) – Lukla (2840m/9,318ft)

Set out early, feeling so good to be back on the road again and once more anonymous.  I love meeting new people travelling and feeling part of a group for a while, but it is so liberating to be able to pack up my life and close the door, leaving behind nothing the maid can’t remedy.

It was another beautiful day on the trail as the procession from high to lowlands came to its final conclusion in the cliffs under towering trees alongside the rushing river.  I made it to Lukla in 7 hours and was perfectly ready to be done – happy, content, accomplished.

Tibetan mantra along the trail

My flight back to Kathmandu wasn’t scheduled for another couple of days, so I booked a room and headed to the departures office to move it up to sometime tomorrow.  On the way there, I passed a boy I saw up at Gorak Shep a few days earlier while we were both sitting in the lodge by ourselves.  He had waist-long black dreadlocks, dark eyes and skin and a septum ring.  He was sitting on the steps of a lodge, sipping a can of beer and caught my eye with his as I walked by.

“Hey, I saw you”, he sputtered.  His name was Sergio, a photographer from Portugal.  We spent the rest of the day hanging out, eating and drinking beer, eventually ending up at a dance party with about 20 Danish trekkers and their Sherpa guides and porters.  We both had flights out tomorrow and Sergio invited me to go to Pokhara, a beautiful lakeside town northwest of Kathmandu, with him and his 2 Portuguese friends he was scheduled to meet back in Kathmandu.  As my trekking group was now fully dismantled I gladly accepted his offer, and the next day we flew out of Lukla, officially ending my Everest Base Camp adventure.

Happy World Water Day from Edge of Seven!

Water is an essential factor in life and human and economic development. In rural Nepal, many villages are challenged by mountainous terrain and lack access to clean drinking water and sanitation. As such, many women and girls are often tasked with the responsibility of collecting water for their families to be used in cooking, cleaning, and consumption.

In the summer of 2011, Edge of Seven collaborated with The Small World in a project to bring a sustainable water supply to the village of Purdu. This included 2 water tanks, filters, 3km of piping and 8 community taps. Access to community taps will allow women and girls to have more time spent on productive activities such as pursuing education, tending to crops or generating new sources of income.

Below are some interesting water facts! (data taken from Envirocivil.org):

-884 million people lack access to clean water. That is almost 3x the population of the US

-Women spend 200 million hours a day collecting water

-An American taking a five-minute shower uses more water than a typical person in a developing country slum uses in a whole day

-More people in the world have cell phones than access to a toilet

-The water and sanitation crisis claims more lives through disease than any war claims through guns

-People living in the slums often pay 5-10x more per liter of water than wealthy people living in the same city

-As little as one dollar can provide clean water for a child in the developing world for an entire year

How much water are you consuming on a daily basis? Check your own water footprint here

Interested in being a part of water projects in Nepal? Be sure to check out our upcoming trips!

My next trip will be in Adelaide next month so there are only a few spots left for your photo session. If you’re interested, please book for your photo session to avoid any disappointment!
Enjoy your week,

Sue

I was awakened around 6 AM by an evacuation helicopter flying overhead.  I rolled out of bed wearing every stitch of clothing that has been accumulating layer by layer since Namche.  I tip-toed downstairs in the freezing air to the lodge with milk tea on my brain.  The boys were already there, slowly nibbling on omelettes and french toast doused in honey.

Dughla

We were packed up and back on the road just after 10 AM.  The trail was fairly flat through open valley yet not particularly easy.  Being above the treeline, instead of grassy fields we are now hobbling over jagged rocks and through sporadic streams and rivers, and balancing on teetering rocks through ice cold water is an easier task without a 20 lb pack throwing you around like the taunting hand of an older brother.  As the terrain demands heightened attention the thinning oxygen leaves us feeling like geriatrics with each trivial step.

After 2 hours and 300 meters of elevation gain we reached Dughla, a village less deserving to be called such than maybe anyplace anywhere.  Dughla consists of 1 lodge connected to 1 restaurant with a stable/storage shed in back.  I wanted to press on a few more hours to Labouche, but Emil was gung-ho on the “no more than 300 meter gain per day” rule.  We booked rooms, unloaded our stuff and went outside to relax and explore the grounds.  Today is the first day I wore my rented down jacket – the final layer.

While sitting outside pining for sun through the stingy air I met a German and a Canadian who were trekking together.  Talk about small world – turns out I had met the Canadian, Sean, while living in Taiwan out at a bar with some friends about 6 months back.  Met in a bar in small town Taiwan and then again smack dab in the middle of the Nepal Himalaya in the most miniscule ”village” in probably the entire world.

October 14, 2012.  Day 9.  Dughla (4620m/15,157ft) – Labouche (4950m/16,240ft)

We left the most boring village on earth around 9 AM to scale a steep procession of switchbacks, gaining all our 300 meters in about one hour, gasping for air with each tedious, painful step over large, loose rocks.  The air is at its thinnest yet and we are quite obviously still not used to it.  We arrived at Labouche around 11:30, tired but eager to make it to Gorak Shep – the terminus village from where side trips are taken to Base Camp and Kala Patthar.  Steve and I wanted to press the last few hours to Gorak to try to catch up to Nat and Lincoln, but Sean and Emil warned against the 500 meter gain that would come along with that press, especially considering we had already been struggling for breath all day.  We gave in and decided to succumb to boredom rather than risk getting sick.

We spent the afternoon mindlessly eating and drinking milk tea, wandering around the lodge chatting with other guests, and took a hike to the top of the nearby ridge where we got a view of the massive Khumbu glacier that runs from here all the way to base camp.

That night at dinner we got talking to an older Kiwi guy, John, who was on his 39th trip to base camp.  He quit his life in Auckland to start a company in Kathmandu and leads tour groups up every season, then takes the rest of the year off.  John informed us our hopes of booking lodging when we arrive in Gorak Shep tomorrow were absurd; that there is only 1 lodge in the village and most people spend 2-3 days there to do all the side trips making it very difficult to get a room even if you have pre-booked.  Being the nice guy that he is, he made a call and sorted us a room for when we arrive.  With our minds then at ease we were in bed around 10 PM for a relaxed start tomorrow.

October 15, 2012.  Day 10.  Labouche (4950m/16,240ft) – Gorak Shep (5164m/16,942ft)

We arrived at Gorak Shep around noon after a slightly easier climb as our bodies seem to finally be adjusting to the altitude after the possibly obsessive acclimatization time we’ve been taking.  We passed Nat and Lincoln on our way up.  They had finished Base Camp and Kala Patthar in only 1 day, leaving me happy with my decision to have stayed behind to take it all in a bit slower.  Nat is heading to meet a friend to do Cho Lo Pass and the Gokyo side of the region, while Lincoln, our beach-dwelling, flip-flop wearing Aussie heads back down to the warmer pastures of Kathmandu then possibly Southern Nepal.  Not going to lie, I am slightly envious of him right now as I am getting dangerously close to being “mountained out” myself.

Lodge at Gorak Shep

To our dismay, when we arrived at the lodge our “reservation” John had made last night had been given up and it appears we will be sleeping in the dining room tonight.  The boys are entertaining the thought of sleeping outside under the stars, but all I hear is hypothermia.

Persistence (or some would say annoyance) payed off and we ended up getting one room just before dinner.  Sleeping arrangements tonight turned out to be just the opposite of my hypothermia fears as Steve, Emil and I  got cozy in one queen sized bed together, head to foot to head.

Modest accommodation for 3 at Gorak Shep.

In the middle of the night I was struck with a violent coughing fit and driven out to the dining room in search of something warm to ease my throat and not irritate the hell out of the boys.  I was confronted with our avoided fate as I tip-toed over scattered snoring sleeping bags on the floor of the dining room, and over to the candle-lit table of bundled-up Sherpas talking quietly in the corner.   I approached them, hacking my lungs out and unable to get out a full sentence.  One of them hopped up and over to the kitchen where he made me some piping lemon tea and invited me to sit in a dark booth unoccupied by a bag of snore.  30 minutes and 2 cups of tea later I returned to my 1/3 of the bed, popped a few sleeping pills and awoke to a kick in the head the next morning.

We were up at 6:30 AM today to get packed up and down to the dining room for breakfast of eggs over easy, toast and fried potatoes before heading out into the chilly, overcast morning.  Spirits were low, thunder rumbling in the distance as we climbed the steep steps out of the village.

Once we were out of town and reached the trail spirits began to lift.  It was a flat, easy trail hugging the mountainside; one slip promising a tumble hundreds of feet down to the rushing creek, winding like a baby blue snake below.  We continued along, sandwiched between  the valley and towering white peaks looming above for about 2 hours before reaching Phungi Thanga, our first meeting point for the day.  Took a quick break to gather the group and pressed on.

Tengboche

Just under 2 more hours up a grueling incline of switchbacks until we reached Tengboche.  We were greeted by Sherpas smoking cigarettes and talking on cell phones, a few of them dressed in military gear near the entrance gate.  We were in the clouds now, drizzled by misty rain, fog shrouding our view and the air was noticeably colder.  Horses and yaks grazed among scattered tents outside the Tengboche Monastery - the most important Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the Khumbu region.  We were cold, damp, and running low on energy and stamina, and were drawn like zombie moths immediately into the bakery.  We snacked on veggie fried rice and milk tea to warm our insides before finishing out the last leg of the day.

The last hour and a half to Pangboche we walked through autumn in a day.  Red, orange and yellow leaves littered the trail below a tunnel of wilting trees.  We finally reached the tiny village with scarce choice of lodging to be had.  Tomorrow is another acclimatization day.

October 10, 2012.  Day 5.  Acclimatization Day - Pangboche (3995m/13,107ft)

View of Ama Dablam at Pangboche

Awoke at 9:45 to stunning views of the snow capped peaks finally visible through the crystal clear morning skies.  Morning is the best time for mountain vistas as clouds begin to roll in around noon.  Emil, Steve and Nat went out for a long hike to Ama Dablam base camp today which Linc and I happily skipped out on.  I needed some time to myself.

I went to the outdoor bakery down the path from our lodge to indulge in a cinnamon danish and cappuccino while taking in the majestic views and breathing the clean, thin air.  Along the way, I noticed a sign listing the amenities offered by the lodge: “Helicopter Rescue, Oxygen Service, Horse Rent”.  Only the essentials at 4,000 meters!  It is about twice a day now we hear helicopters overhead evacuating people with serious AMS back down to lower elevations.  We have also begun to see guided horses carrying people in slumped exhaustion who are too sick or tired to continue on their own two feet.

After breakfast I decided it would be wise to take a short acclimatization hike.  I chose a hill nearby and started walking up.  When I reached the top I was greeted by a giant, colorful Tibetan Buddhist deity watching over the village.  There was no one around, so I went and sat on a bench facing him and got lost in its wild eyes.  A sudden, strong urge to meditate overcame me.

Behind closed eyes on that bench on the mountaintop, I was all alone and further from home than I’d ever been.  I felt the chill of the wind and the warmth of the sun, listened to the encompassing stillness alive with only the caws of the crows and beating prayer flags in the wind.  I could almost feel the omnipotence of the Himalaya and I did not feel alone.  As the afternoon clouds rolled in I headed back to the lodge to meet the group.

October 11, 2012.  Day 6.  Pangboche (3995m/13,107ft) – Pheriche (4240m/13,911ft)

Awoke refreshed from yesterday’s rest day and ready to take on the short stretch to Pheriche, where we will take yet another acclimatization day.  At this altitude it is advisable to ascend as slowly as possible.  Since we have plenty of time we decided to go a bit overkill on the rest days which will greatly help us avoid AMS, reach base camp, and more fully experience the villages along the way.

We left Pangboche around 9:45 and set out on the relatively flat trail still hugging the ridge of the river-carved valley.  We reached Pheriche around 1:00 PM.  The rooms in our lodge were very spacious and Nat and I decided to shack up together.

Pheriche

Pheriche is an important village in the area as it is home to the Pheriche Hospital and Himalayan Rescue Association.  Volunteer doctors are always on staff doing seminars on AMS and treating sick trekkers.  This afternoon we attended one of these free seminars; the best part of it being the blood-oxygen level test.  A 300 rupee donation bought your finger to be clamped into a hand held machine to measure current susceptibility to AMS.  A reading of 100% is where you should be when sitting on a beach somewhere.  A lower percentage indicates dwindling oxygen levels and higher probability of experiencing symptoms of AMS.

At the Himalayan Hotel lodge in Pheriche

I still felt well and mostly symptom less at this altitude despite the fact I was now 200 meters higher than I’d ever been before.  I forked over the 300 rupees and stuck my finger in the meter.  87%.  Not bad, especially considering the story the English volunteer doctor told about a man found a few days before.  A few trekkers found him wandering in circles on the side of the trail all by himself, looking completely bewildered and unsure where he was.  They walked him back down to the hospital and his reading was at 46%.  The man was immediately helicoptered down to Lukla and owed his life to the 2 kindly trekkers.

Pheriche is the first village resting above the treeline.  Pines and wildflowers are replaced by black and white granite rocks littering the terrain as far as the eye can see, broken only by jutting snow covered peaks.  Foliage is very sparse and I feel I may as well be on the moon.

October 12, 2012.  Day 7.  Acclimatization Day – Pheriche (4240m/13,911ft)

It is another beautiful, sunny day in Pheriche.  We awoke at 7:00 and met in the dining room to see off half our group.  Nat and Lincoln decided to skip the rest day and head to Lobuche.  They were getting stir crazy taking so many days off and decided to risk AMS to make the push to 4900 meters while Steve, Emil and I stayed back.

After breakfast the three of us went out to explore the barren valley near the village, walking through shrubs, over sharp rocks and through streams, snapping photos along the way.  The terrain demanded more attention than I was giving and sent me slipping backwards into the stream.  My adventure for the day was over and I headed back to the lodge to dry my soaked shoes and clothes.

Took my first shower since Kathmandu this afternoon.  It was warm  and wonderful and I spent the rest of the evening in fresh, clean clothes curled up by the yak-shit fire in the dining room with a book.

Lukla easily ranks one of the most stunningly beautiful places I have ever seen.  It feels almost unworldly, so far from anywhere else – 4 days walking distance from Kathmandu, hovering in the sky shelved between cliffs above miles of sweeping valley.  The air is crisp and thin at altitude, and the monstrous mountains hide their heads in the encircling clouds.  The town is quaint and small; both Nepalese and Sherpa people and their children fill the streets, talking, playing, maintaining their shops and animals and leading yaks with large bells around their necks down the rough stone paths.  Foreigners from all walks and all over come together to walk these paths, buying trinkets, heading for breakfast, or walking toward the trail head, the air buzzing with excitement.  We have all been drawn to this very place in the middle of a vast nothing with the common purpose of our impending pilgrimage.

The paths of Lukla are lined with shops selling souvenirs and nonperishable foods, cafes, including a mock-Starbucks, a few pubs and pool halls, a movie theater, an outdoor ping pong table the young Sherpa boys frequent, and plenty of restaurants to choose from.  The 5 of us chose one with a stunning view of a farm, men playing volleyball in the morning sun and the valley in the distance.  The North Face Lodge also offered wifi - the most difficult amenity to leave behind.  We were unsure of the next place we would have access to this now scarce luxury and took advantage at any opportunity.

At breakfast, we met a group who had just completed the trek and hounded them with questions.  They were a Lebanese guy, Malay-Aussie guy, and a man from Salt Lake City (small world!).  They told us horror stories of AMS and how it struck the Aussie badly while the other two felt nothing.  He had to be carried down to a lower altitude on a stretcher and was unable to reach base camp.

AMS stands for Acute Mountain Sickness and is not to be taken lightly.  It is crucial to ascend slowly, not gaining more than about 400 meters per day at max.  The trick is to climb high, sleep low.  AMS is seemingly random with whom it affects; it doesn’t matter your physical condition, age, sex, smoker or non, everyone is equally susceptible.  If symptoms are experienced you must stay put, wait for them to subside, descend immediately if they persist, or risk even death if symptoms are ignored.

This story did not ease my nerves much, but I was feeling optimistic still and was determined to make it all the way to base camp.  Though in the end, they say, it doesn’t matter what you want – it is the mountain that decides.

After our hearty breakfast of milk tea, omelettes and toast we gathered our packs and headed to the trail head.  Our group had decided to carry our own packs (mine was at about 20 lbs) and do the trek independently, relying on a map rather than a guide.  We felt part of the fun was doing it on your own, each of us saving a good amount of money as well.

We began the trek around 9:30 AM.  As we were still in the lowlands the weather was decently warm and we had to stop to strip a layer less than an hour in.  It was a gorgeous first 3 hours – easy, flat trail with views of farms littered with yaks and horses, winding through villages with women doing chores outside and children running around in flowered dresses and dirty, khaki pants, smiling ear to ear running up to passing trekkers greeting us with a handful of wildflowers and a “Namaste!”.  This is the life; I’m never going back!

We arrived at the village Phakding (2668m) for lunch of vegetarian dal bhat, the signature Nepali dish of rice and a lentil and veggie soup to mix in.  Just delicious and great fuel for walking up mountains with heavy things on your back.  We took about an hour for lunch then it was off again to reach Monjo where we would break for the night.

The climb to Monjo was less than 2 hours more, but was hellish as we had lost about 200 meters throughout the first leg of the day and must now make it up with a vengeance.  As it was only day 1 we were still working out kinks in our gear, stopping to tape up developing blisters, and massaging our undeveloped quad muscles.  When we finally arrived, past 2 towering waterfalls and a million stairs, we were greeted by a group of Sherpa teens sitting at the edge of town.  We chose a lodge and unloaded.

I met with Nat, Lincoln, Steve and Emil downstairs for dinner an hour later.  I had Sherpa stew, a heavy yet healthy stew of potatoes and locally grown vegetables and a ridiculously priced $4 can of Sam Miguel.  The lodge owner suggested our next round be the local spirit as it is much less expensive.  We were happy to try the local fare and he brought us out cups of Raksi, a strong rice liquor that tasted of watered down vodka and nail polish remover, but went down great after such a wearing day.  We unwound by the heater in the small dining room, bellies full of food talking about the day, laughing and playing games of Presidents and Assholes and trying to agree on rules from a mess of countries.  We slept like rocks that night.

October 7, 2012.  Day 2.  Monjo (2835m/9,301ft) – Namche Bazaar (3445m/11,302ft)

Today was an absolute bitch.  We were on the trail at 9:00 AM and hiked for just over 5 hours altogether.  The group set out with a plan to meet at a village about halfway to Namche called Larja Dobhan for lunch (as we typically separate into smaller groups along the way).  Nat, Lincoln and I were ahead, and at about 45 minutes we came to a fork in the road after the bridge – one side going steep up and the other following the river.  Nat suggested we wait for the boys as they might know which way is best, but Linc and I wanted to stay ahead, and reasoning we needed to gain a killer 600 meters in altitude that day we needed to go up at some point.  The 2 of us took off on the up trail and Nat waited behind.  We climbed and climbed and stopped for breaks and climbed some more.  About an hour and a half later, our cursing echoed in the trees as the trail started to wind down again.  Down, down, down and to another bridge just up river from the one we crossed earlier.  Our side track proved to be completely unnecessary and we had just drained a huge amount of energy for nothing; the others must be an hour ahead of us now.

We pressed on, and the trail began to steeply ascend again, switchbacking one after another; never ending.  It was here I began to feel the altitude – my breath was short and no matter how deeply I tried to inhale it was not sufficient.  This, mixed with the beating sun and exhaustion of our detour was wearing on me, hard.  Lincoln was quite a bit ahead now and I couldn’t keep from feeling so dizzy I had to sit down, drink water and eat figs or almonds out of fear I might faint.  I couldn’t believe we hadn’t even reached our halfway point yet!

After an eternity of hiking hell I made it to the top of the switchbacks, gaining about 400 meters in maybe a few kilometers.  At the top, there were groups of trekkers and guides gathered at a rest stop.  I stopped to sit on some rocks nearby, and overheard a Sherpa telling some girls, “You can see Everest from here!”.  I perked up and my spirits lifted; I must be at the Everest viewpoint!  This is far past the halfway point where we were planning to meet – I’m almost to Namche!  I walked over to where the girls were standing and got my first view of Mother of the Earth, Sagarmartha, Mt. Everest.  Though so far in the distance the sight of her was incredible, but reminded me we still had a long way to go.

I pressed on to Namche, slowing my pace from ‘slow’ to ‘ridiculously slow’, which proved advantageous.  I was able to keep my heart rate steady despite the incline and I found myself passing people more at this pace as they tended to walk quickly, needing to stop to rest, rinse and repeat.  A girl among them a bit younger than me struck up a conversation.  She was very sweet and normally I am happy to meet new people, but my body was about to crumble under the weight of my pack which seemed to gain a pound with every bead of sweat I lost.  She seemed far too chipper for my liking at the moment, with her pack resting like a feather atop her seasoned porter.  I wanted to stab her with my walking pole and tell her to go away.

But then, I made it to Namche!  Oh, I may have never been happier to see a town in all my life.  What a day!  I met the group and we spent the rest of the afternoon between our cozy guesthouse and on the patio of Everest View Bakery, drinking cappuccinos and eating pastries in the sun and chatting with other trekkers; my body was high as a kite in the aftermath of such an intense workout.  This made the hell of the past 2 days worth every minute.

October 8, 2013.  Day 3.  Rest Day – Namche Bazaar (3445m/11,302ft)

Today is a rest day for our bodies to acclimatize to the altitude, which is good considering I awoke this morning with a bleeding nose, an early sign of AMS.  I slept well in my comfortable bed at the Kala Patthar Lodge, named after the mountain near base camp that gives the best view of Everest from its Nepal side.  We slept in, waking up around 10 AM to gear up for an acclimatization hike of about 300 meters – again, climb high, sleep low.  We hiked up to a ridge overlooking the village, getting beautiful views of Ama Dablam – a stunning, sharp triangle shaped peak jutting off in the distance, my personal favorite in all the range.

Namche Bazaar is a Sherpa village and the largest in the Khumbu region; the last chance for trekkers to pick up odds and ends for the journey ahead.  There are countless trekking gear shops, a small bank to change money, restaurants with western and Nepali food alike, cafes and amazing bakeries.

After the hike, I spent the rest of the day wandering Namche’s maze of streets, in and out of shops, changing money, drinking coffee and people watching on the sun bathed patio in a tank top.

Art is an emotional link between an artist and audience and Seema Acharya’s first solo exhibition Pondering Moment, full of vibrant colors, exuded her fresh new approach to life. Mother of two, life hasn’t always been a smooth ride for Seema but she has put everything behind.  Painting comes naturally to this talented artist who has been painting, for as long as she can remember.  She went on to with the Award for the All India Nehru Art Competition (for West Bengal) while in school.  Textile designer by profession she has always added her creative mode of expression in any of her work.

Seema strikes a pose during her exhibition  (Copyright Arjun Maharjan. WOW)

Her Story

Eldest of five children, Seema and her siblings all completed their education in India. She is the only artist in her family and has always been good at coming up with creative presents for her siblings and relatives.

“She is that one fluke in our family who has the artist gene,” admits her younger sister Neela, who flew in from Dubai to support her sister’s first solo exhibition. When in school, Neela shares how Seema came up to their school infirmary with a guitar and started singing for her when she was sick.

“She has always been so creative with everything she does. I am glad she painting again,” says Neela.  The family is still trying to back track and see whom she gets it from. Seema remembers doodling since she was a young girl. Her classmates would come up to her if they had to get a drawing done for any science project.

Having studied in St. Helen’s, Kurseong, in Darjeeling, Seema enjoyed the views of the beautiful Kanchenjunga range. She would pick up the brush and try her hands at watercolor and replicate the beauty of the mountains into the canvas.  Her love for mountains, particularly Mount Kailash was evident in the exhibition as well with several paintings of the majestic landscape.

After school she left for Bombay where she took up textile designing. Even while studying she kept diverting back to art. She took a one-year oil painting course from Nirmala Niketan in Bombay.

Upon completion of her studies, she got married and got tied into societal obligation. And for the next decade and a half she lost her touch with painting.

“It took nine long years of suppressed, oppressive and violent marital injustice before I found the courage to walk away from it and take a stand in the judicial system for my two children,” she reveals. It took her a while to realize that it was within her to rediscover her passion. The support from her family was of course the backbone. Everyone encouraged her to pick up the paintbrush once again.

She remembers her young niece Alia, who was around six years old a few years back would urge her to draw flowers and sketch something for her.

“You can do it she said and I drew flowers for her,” Seema reminiscences. It was then that slowly she picked up the brush and started painting again.  After a fifteen-year gap, she joined professional classes with David Douglas to get back in track. Not that she had forgotten to paint but Seema explains that she underwent an artist’s equivalent of writer’s block. She was encouraged by the response and for the next two years painted with all her heart.

“This exhibition is my statement saying hey I am back,” she says.

Pondering Moments

“It’s a way of telling people that everyone can do it. We go through ups and downs. Everyone has his or her own story to tell. We have to have the strength to rediscover ourselves,” she explains.

Seema’s exhibition lit up the place with its bright hues and effervescent vibe. The idea behind pondering moments was that the paintings which covered diverse themes was each a moment for the audience to ponder over.  The minuscule detail, the striking ambience seemed to create an emotional link between the artwork and the audience. Painting comes so naturally to Seema that she doesn’t need any sort of inspiration. She paints because it makes her happy.  Yet there is a lot of inspiration once can derive from her composition.

The exhibition covered a diverse theme ranging from abstract, floral, landscapes, scenery, mountains, portraits and horses.  Each painting colorful and attractive reflected Seema’s warm and vibrant personality. The response she got was very positive and she admits that it was a big relief for her because she was very nervous since this was the first time that she had displayed her artwork. The best compliment she received for her painting was when someone expressed that the paintings spoke the audience.

“ Your work speaks to us someone said during the exhibition and that was the best thing to hear,” said the artist who particularly admires the work of Van Gogh.

Paint for a Cause

Seema decided to give certain proceeds of the exhibition to ‘Mendies Haven’, a home in Kathmandu for orphaned and abandoned children to help pay for the education of girl students. The support and care of parents for the girl child is extremely important she believes.

“I think education for all is important. And as for girls’ education, I see that we still have that difference and encouraging girls’ education will eventually close that gap. It will empower them to make decisions for themselves,” she says.

“Anything that I would do would be for the cause related to women or children, focusing on girls,” she admits. Education is one strong factor, which will help them decide and make the right decisions.  Another important thing is support from family. In our society we tend to think that once the daughter is married off, she ceases to be the parents’ responsibility. It is this wrong notion that stops girls and women from fighting marital injustice, she says. When asked her a definition of a 21^st century woman? Seema says the youth today are more aware and proactive towards getting their rights. The societal structure she saw a decade back is much different from what it is now. She believes women are more confident now.

“Courageous, very aware and very financially independent. They should be able to stand up and speak for their rights,” she says.

(This write-up appeared in the  February issue of WOW magazine in the section “WOW individual” ) 

We got an added surprise when we arrived in Sauraha-a food festival! The beginning of the food festival started the very day we arrived. They kicked the food festival off with a parade of elephants and local groups of people competing by performing traditional song and dance. We were in Nepal now and there are many differences we’ve seen compared to India. One that we noticed during this parade was being able to see the parade and not getting pushed out of the front. Granted, there were way less people for the food festival versus the new year parade, but still.

Nepal also included a lot more elephants versus one.

Decorated elephant.

They played traditional music and dance.

These women were dancing with pots on their head. Amazing.

They couldn’t compete with the dancing pot heads.

There were only a few little ones.

They had a lot of different local cuisine at the food festival. The very first place we went to had local dog meat for sale. We opted to try the egg. We also tried some grilled chicken marinated with nepali spice and a very tasty nepali potato salad. We then rested for awhile, watched the sunset and headed back for some more tasty food, Nepali beer, and live entertainment.

Dog meat was on the left, second from the bottom.

Yummy boiled, battered, then fried egg.

I don’t know why Santa was there…it was February.

Grilled chicken.

Dug out canoe on the river at sunset.

We’ve seen so many beautiful sunsets on this trip.

Hanging out listening to the local music

Gorkha beer and pakora.

They also had traditional and not so traditional dance performances.

The next morning we woke up real early to catch the first elephant safari. We got up before the sun and headed toward the elephants in the fog. They have platforms the height of the average elephant and instruct the elephant to back up as close as he or she can to the platform. You step on the elephants back and then into the howdah (or passenger seat). There were four to a howdah so two other people joined us. We literally were the first elephant to start that morning. It was still foggy when we started and very cool to see the park-well, technically, it’s the buffer zone-in the morning with all the mist. Elephant riding isn’t the most comfortable ride, but it wasn’t uncomfortable either. It was more comfortable than the camel safari for sure, but maybe that was just because I didn’t have a camel sak in my face.

Anyway, we road around the park looking for animals, specifically a rhino, for about an hour and half. We saw many birds and deer just as we had in India. We must be very lucky when it comes to nature and animals in the wild because we came upon a rhino eating his breakfast-thankfully they only eat leaves. Because we were on an elephant we pulled up right next to the guy. He didn’t even know we were there until the other elephant came beside us. He went from calmly eating his breakfast to agitated very quickly once he realized we were there. So we left before he could charge. I’ll apologize for our pictures in advance. It’s hard to take pictures of moving animals. It’s even harder to take pictures of moving animals when you’re on a moving animal.

Early morning jeep ride to the elephants.

Elephant platform

Elephants in the mist.

Each elephant has his own driver for his whole life. They use a spiky metal rod and rope to keep the elephant in line.

He drove the elephant with his feet.

Unaware rhino

Finally noticed two big elephants right next to him.

Check out the rack on this deer.

Peacock.

It was a short glimpse into the park, but it was all we could afford. We then headed to kathmandu and celebrated the rest of valentines day very romantically with chocolate and a beer.

Horse and cart ride to the bus.

Feeling the love on valentines day

Our second nepali beer, Nepal Ice.

Very romantic!

“Nepal has rocks in the sky”, “Nepal has the worst aviation record of any country in the world”, “Tenzing Hillary Airport is the world’s most dangerous airport”, “Six Brittons dead in Nepal plane crash”.

These are some of the phrases occupying my brain the week prior my flight from Taipei to Kathmandu.  Not only was I leaving behind my home, friends, and comfort of the past year, I was headed to a place of much personal intrigue, yet completely lacking in all peace of mind.  The entire week I was filled with an impending sense of doom that I just couldn’t shake; the plane to Lukla will surely crash, or I will fall off the mountain and break my neck, or be kidnapped by a taxi driver, never to see light of day again.  My nerves were creating ridiculous scenarios that seemed all too feasible at the time.

The last four hour leg of the flight was turbulent to say the least, as if the world were seizing the one last opportunity to violently screw with me before entering what would become one of my favorite countries on Earth.  We finally cleared the ominous black clouds, illuminating the distance with streaks of bright lightening and began a descent over Kathmandu.  My fear instantly fell away and I was struck with awe, forehead pressed to the window studying the sprawling landscape of single yellow lights spotting over cluttered buildings, all identical in height and shape.  It appeared a blanket of glittering mounds, like waves in the sea sparkling in the moonlight.  It felt perfectly silent and peaceful.

Kathmandu

Stepping down the steps of the plane and onto the pavement the air smelled sweet and felt light and cool on my skin compared to the thick humidity I left behind in Taiwan.  I followed the other passengers into the arrival terminal of Kathmandu Tribhuvan International and took a seat in the big colorless room with brown brick columns and high school cafeteria linoleum floor to wait for Steve who was scheduled to arrive at this very place within the hour on a flight from Hong Kong.  I had never met Steve before so I was waiting for someone matching a physical description.  I had met a group of people online, friends of friends, whom I would be trekking to base camp with.  The very basic arrival room was highly lacking in aesthetic appeal, to put it lightly, but it was this lackluster room, now almost completely empty, in which I had my first conversation with a local.  He was a man in his late 30′s who worked in the terminal, and having not much to do at this late hour decided to strike up a conversation.  From the obvious first question of “Where you come from?” he began the third degree.

“Are you married?”, “No?? How old are you?”, “Then do you have boyfriend?” “No??? Why you’re not married?”

I informed him I didn’t feel it was necessary for me to be married and I simply chose not to be.  His bewilderment and curiosity at this no doubt comes from his Nepali culture where arranged and even child marriages are commonplace, where necessity for such bonds typically trumps desire for them (although there have in recent years been a gradual shift toward some “love” marriages).

After some time engaged in this prodding conversation, Steve finally arrived and we purchased our $100 3-month visas, grabbed our luggage and headed out front to grab a taxi.  Entering the night air through the open doors of the airport we were rushed by a group of Nepali men to barter for our business.  We offered 400 rupees to the Thamel district – 2 of the men accepted and we followed them across the dark, dusty lot and hopped into a car with no evidence of its claim of being a taxi at all, and I was very grateful to have waited for Steve at this moment.  The drive to our guesthouse in Thamel was an adventure of its own, winding at autobahn speeds through pitch dark streets bumping over constant potholes in the unpaved roads, passing sauntering cows, groups of women dressed in colorful saris, and countless dimly lit roadside shops draped with Coca-Cola banners along the way.  When we arrived to the guesthouse and checked in I fell right asleep.

I awoke in the morning the the song “Om Mani Padme Hum” drifting up into my sunlit open window from the street below.  It was perfect, and I hopped up to go exploring.  Kathmandu is a mad city!  Dirt, rocky, very narrow roads teeming with motorbikes, rickshaws, and small 2-door, run down cars flying in either direction, hands like bricks on the horns.  People weave in and out of these moving obstacles: graying hippies, trekkers buying gear, child beggars hustling those exiting shops, and Nepalese shop owners calling out to passers-by.  The absolute definition of chaos and I fell instantly in love.  My trekking group, Australian Nat and Lincoln and Canadian Steve and Emil, and I spent the day shopping for last minute gear, tying up loose ends, relaxing and drinking ginger tea in hopes of preventing altitude sickness.  We are booked to fly to the trailhead bright and early tomorrow.

Tribhuvan Domestic Terminal

I awoke to Emil standing in my doorway in full trekking gear and donned in a bear-head beenie.  Today is the day!  I hopped out of bed filled with nervous butterflies and we were out the door in 5 minutes flat.  The five of us flagged a van taxi, tossed our bags on top and loaded in back headed for Tribhuvan Airport – this time the domestic terminal; a place that far surpassed any place I’d ever seen in disorganization, chaos and disarray.  We dropped our packs on one of the few scattered empty plots of floor and settled in for the long wait.  Although we had flights booked, they absolutely never leave on time.  Planes have only a few small windows of time per day where the weather is permitting at the landing strip in Lukla.  First come, first served and you must be pushy, assertive and crafty to get boarding passes for the tens of seats among the hundreds of people fighting for the same flight.  If you don’t get on that day you must try again tomorrow.  We met people who had been trying to get on a flight for the past 4 days, causing us some anxiety which turned to hopelessness after 5 hours of sitting on our bags waiting for our seasoned trekker, Emil, to do the dirty work.  Finally, the lemonade stand-style booth that served as the departure desk posted a sign stating all remaining flights for the day were cancelled due to bad weather.

Waiting to get boarding passes.

As Emil persisted at the desk, Nat, Lincoln, Steve and I decided to grab a beer and begin to hammer out a backup plan as we didn’t have time or energy to wait day after day for a flight.  About 18 ounces in we were feeling much higher in spirits and cheer, when Emil bolted over to us shouting, “We’re on, we’re on!  Hurry, NOW!!”.  We jumped up, shoved through the crowd and frantically hurled our bags over hoards of people waving receipts and shouting in Nepalese.  We grabbed our coveted boarding passes a midst the chaos and headed to the boarding gate.

On the plane.

We were finally on the plane, all 5 of us having scored a seat on the left-hand side as to get the best views.  The Tara Air plane was tiny, old, tattered and shook like a rattle in the clouds.  I felt so miniscule looking out upon the snow tipped Himalayas peaking over the cloud line way over the vast valley below.  We were truly at the mercy of the elements and my heart was pounding in my throat.  After a 45 minute eternity the plane broke through the clouds, sweeping down onto the inclined runway like a bird diving for fish.  The cabin came alive with cheers and clapping and my body burst with an adrenaline I’ve never felt when we were safely on the runway.  Our excitement or arriving here with our lives was fueled by a horrific event only 9 days prior – a flight on the same route we had just taken hit a bird and crashed, killing all 19 people on board; just one more tragedy in Tenzing Hillary Airport’s rocky history.

We had arrived in Lukla and would begin the Everest Base Camp trek in the morning.

• There is still a strong belief in Nepal that disability is due to sins of the past, fate and God. More than half of the parents of persons with disabilities surveyed answered that the disability of their child was due to fate and God’s will. These beliefs prevent them from accessing appropriate health care treatment for their disabled children.

• In Nepal the majority of people view disability as a penance for sins committed in previous lives and thus strong prejudices are held against people with disabilities. Unfortunately most Nepalese are ignorant of the different causes, types, and cures for disability.

• The male-female literacy ratio in Nepal is 65:42 (2001 Census), and girls are discouraged from attending school, because they traditionally have to work at home. Seven Women is doing it’s bit to correct this gender imbalance.

• Nepalese society assigns tightly defined gender roles to men as breadwinners and women as homemakers. Marriage is seen as the most acceptable (economic) option for women, as it offers the best way for them to gain access to property and land via their husbands and secure their livelihood. Women with disabilities in Nepal are unlikely to marry as they are considered ‘incapable of reproductive work’. Thus 80% of women with disabilities in Nepal remain unmarried and often struggling to meet life’s basic needs.

• Disabled men in Nepalese culture face similar constraints to that of disabled women in establishing a family life but their chances of marriage are higher, due to their entitlement to family property and greater likelihood of securing jobs. Men with disabilities in Nepal prefer not to marry women who have a disability as they fear the women will not be capable of their traditional roles or satisfying their husband’s sexual wishes.

• Organisations like Seven Women have helped Nepalese women reduce their economic dependence on men, increased their bargaining position in the household, and enhanced their autonomy, economic dependence and self confidence to boot!

A repülőtéren akartam feladni egy pár képeslapot, amit előzőleg Kathmanduban vásároltam. A boltban említettem az eladónak, hogy Európába megy az összes, olyan bélyeget kértem rá, amelyek mellesleg csudi szépek voltak. Meg is találtuk a postát, de amikor fel akartam adni, közölték velem, hogy nem 30 rúpia a bélyeg, hanem 35. Mivel az összes nepáli rúpiát elköltöttük, a pénzváltóba irányítottak. A furcsa az volt még, hogy a postán ez a férfi a saját pénztárcájából szedte elő az 5 rúpiás bélyegeket. A másik érdekesség, hogy a könyvesboltban azt mondták, hogy az Európába utazó képeslapok 60 rúpiába kerülnek. Úgy döntöttem, hogy a postaládába dobom a 30 rúpiás, megírt lapokat. Vagy célba ér, vagy nem… ?

The security check at the airport was ridiculous (my opinion only), but the breakfast on the plane with Air India helped us to forget things.

A reptéri biztonsági ellenőrzés szerintem egy vicc volt, de az Air India légitársaság reggelije kárpótolt minket mindenért.

When we arrived to Delhi we felt we were quite familiar there, as that was the SECOND TIME we have had been there. This time I chose the green channel, as my lovely Cottage Cheese thingy had gone by then. There were a few things to sort out, e.g., to buy a SIM card, book a taxi and get some Indian Rupees. We did succeed.

Delhibe érkezéskor már nagyon rutinosan mozogtunk a reptéren, hiszen MÁSODSZOR jártunk akkor már Indiában. Ezúttal a zöld folyosót választottam a vámnál, a Túró Rudik addigra elfogytak. Pár dolog volt, amit el kellett intézni, pl. SIM kártyát vásárolni a telefonomba, taxit foglalni és pénzt váltani. Mind a 3-mal sikeresen jártunk.

As it was suggested by our travel books, we went to a few taxi kiosks to get the best price and guess what? At the first place we would have got a car with a/c for 800 rupees whereas the other one offered a taxi for 350 rupees with no a/c. Went for the cheaper one (of course). Then we were expected the worst and went outside from the terminal. The taxi drivers offered their services, but it was a nice surprise that they did not attack us.

A taxi-foglalást több helyen is megkérdeztük (ezt javasolták a könyvek), és lám-lám: az első helyen egy légkondis autóért 800 rúpiát kértek, a másodikon légkondi nélkül 350-et. Utóbbit foglaltuk. Aztán felkészültünk a legrosszabbra, és kimerészkedtünk a terminálból a szabad levegőre. Kellemes meglepetés volt, hogy itt nem támadott le 20 taxis bennünket. Ugyan ajánlották a szolgáltatásaikat, de mégsem éreztük magunkat úgy, mint ártatlan emberek a kannibálok között.

We were looking forward to get to the hotel, because we were both exhausted. Had a little rest and met the program coordinator, Ajay.

Alig vártuk, hogy végre a szállásra érkezzünk, mind a ketten fáradtak voltunk. Kis pihenő után találkoztunk az itteni programszervezővel, aki Ajay névre hallgatott. (A mi kiejtésünk szerint Ajaj – Bogi mindjárt adott egy Indián nevet neki: Hirtelen Fellépő Fájdalom)

In the evening we went to a beautiful place, Akshardham Temple, but unfortunately we were not allowed to take any photos, videos there. We couldn’t even take our bags, cameras, phones in either. I can only show you the place in these postcards and a nice memory photo. As I walked into the temple I had goose bumps and I felt very lucky to be there.

Este egy csodálatos helyre mentünk, Akshardham Temple, ahol sajnos fényképeket nem volt szabad készíteni (de még a fényképezőgéept sem volt szabad beninni!), de pár képeslapról és erről az emlékfotóról meg tudom mutatni a helyet. Nekem ahogy beértünk, libabőrős lett a hátam, olyan gyönyörű látvány volt és szerencsésnek éreztem magam, hogy mindez megadatott.

The best experience of this day was a musical fountain show after sunset. If you are interested, watch this video on youtube.

A legnagyobb élményt egy zenélő szökőkút nyújtotta neplemente után. Akit érdekel, megnézhet egy rövid videót róla a youtube-on.

Reggel végre nem kellett korán kelni, mert csak fél 10-kor indultunk el a szállásról. Első megállónk Síva szobra volt.

Then we had a little walk in Dhulikhel. Had the opportunity to see those people’s life, some students playing outside the school and a cremation too.

Aztán egy rövid séta Dhulikhel városában, ahol alkalmunk nyílt megint látni az itt élő emberek életét, iskolás gyerekeket az utcán szaladgálni a szünetben, valamint egy temetési szertartást is.

Today was a little bit different from the others.

Ez a nap egy kicsit más volt, mint a többi.

Dal Bhat and Momo are two of the traditional dishes in Nepal that was most seen and encountered on our 10days trek..

Dal Bhat is a staple dish for the locals and typically consists of rice, lentils soup and potatoes.

Momo is a dumpling which is filled with meat or veg or a mix of both.. Kind of similar to the chinese version of guo tie aka pot stickers.

We were really lucky to travel in a group of 4 where we were allowed to order anything off the menu.. So we had food like rosti, lots of spicy korean noodles, egg veg instant noodle. Towards the end, instant noodles were kind of the only thing i could down, maybe cause of the MSG that help whet my appetite. Was so worried about hair loss =x

Heard from our guide Sangey that for bigger groups they are unable to do so and would require standardization of the orders as it would be really hard to cook a big variety of mains.. No wonder we kept seeing the bigger groups eating dal bhat =x. And for the record, the only time i tried it as per the 1st picture, i didn’t like it even though mine was special and came with chicken curry. I’m a meat lover through n through.. more on that portion later..

The menus seen along Annapurna Base Camp circuit were pretty similar like they had some guideline or regulations. For breakfast each day, our package allows us to order 2 eggs, bread or an equivalent carbo food and a drink, for lunch, a main and a drink, for dinner a soup, a main and a drink. Anything additional at your own expense. It was too much for me.. I’m never a breakfast person and it didn’t help that i kind of lost my appetite due to a mix of tiredness and eventually attitude sickness i guess.

Can you tell that from the pix below that i so don’t feel like eating? How rare is that? Hah, here, i am having a rosti.

Being kiasu and kiasi, here’s what i insisted we buy and brought over to Nepal for the trek in the mountains.. We had canned tuna, redang, luncheon meat, pork chop etc. We basically bought a can for each day.. haha.. cos yup i need my meat remember? We also bought lots of snacks, energy bars, chocolate, cup noodles and ended up with quite a bit left after the trip which we left to Sangey and our two porters.

And that’s how i survived food wise up in the mountains. Wasn’t as bad as expected, thanks to the wide variety of food offered and the stuff we brought along. So to all, if you live to eat like me, be very prepared yah? or go in a smaller group like us =p

• Seven Women has been collecting sheets, towels and bedding for our new transition centre for women in desperate circumstances in Nepal. The supplies will help set up the bedrooms at the centre for the women. We have been overwhelmed by the generosity of people and their donations. Many people from across VIC and NSW have taken the time to collect bedding and towels for the women we work with in Nepal. Some of the donations have been brand new items from textile and linen businesses.

• Seven Women would like to thank Triumph International Australia for donating 105 pairs of women’s underwear to the women we work with in Nepal who come to our centre to get back on their feet after finding themselves in desperate situations. Women often come to our women’s skills training centre with nothing but the clothes they are wearing. These woman’s briefs will be fantastic items to put in our ‘Welcome Packs’ with general toiletry items etc. Thank you “Triumph” on behalf of the Seven Women team Australia and Nepal.

• Thanks to Cranes pharmacy in Sydney for donating toiletry bags for the Welcome Packs. They have arrived safely in Melbourne and will be heading over to Nepal in June on our next Tour.

One of the best things about running your own organisation is being able to choose who you work with and collaborating with fine human beings.
Seven Women is wholesaling to a fantastic cafe called 2Pocket Fairtrade in the city. Meet Gregg the founder.

The women partaking in an education class

A very exciting time for women from our Seven Women Centre as they began getting an education!!! We are exceptionally proud of them and their enthusiasm to learn. These women get sponsored from our supporters to participate in these classes.

Salina’s new eye!

Recently Seven Women paid for an operation that will help Salina’s life change for the better. She was given a new eye. The surgeon said the nerve’s in Salina’s eye were too damaged to repair, but that they gave her a glass eye that looks i…dentical. This ‘new’ eye is great news for Salina as it means she will no longer have to contend with her weeping eye and being stared at down the street by people looking at her old wondering eye. Three cheers for Salina!

Our Seven Women team (Australia and Nepal), has now been able to train and find employment for over 500 marginalised and impoverished women in Nepal. What a fantastic feeling! Thanks for your help in achieving this… it has been a huge team effort.

These are some recent disability statistics that have been released which highlights the plight of being born with or acquiring a disability:

* 1/10 people in the world have a disability
* 88% of disabilities are invisible
* 80% of people who live with a disability live in developing worlds
* 9/10 are not given a chance for an education