I’ve always thought it a bit bizarre that I have relatives–and quite close ones at that–who are from Newfoundland. I mean, how many people can say that? It’s a small, isolated part of the world and a largely misunderstood one at that. Rachel Maddow’s mother is from Newfoundland; so that’s already a very positive indicator.

Anyway, I’ve always wanted to go there. I think I’d really like it; I love austere landscapes. I’m less fond of the cold and damp but can make due for a short period of time.

Looks like 2010 is going to be my lucky year because in the little village where my grandparents–and my very favorite aunt–were born is having a reunion:  it’s called the Port Kirwan Come Home Year.

I contacted a distant cousin, Deanne Aylward, who lives in St. John’s and who has a rental home in the village; she says she’ll rent it to me for the reunion and I’ve already offered to provide a deposit. My Aunt Mary says she’ll make the trip, if she’s still alive and kicking (she’s in her very youthful mid-80s); she was born in Port Kirwan, and if she can make it, so can some of my other kin: and that means you, O’Neil and Aylward cousins: you know who you are!

my favorite lens for dog photography is the wide angle.  you need a wide angle for big feet!

look at that gorgeous paw!  that’s ollie the newfoundland.    he’s a big snuggle bear!

digital muzzle dog photography

tucson, az

www.digitalmuzzle.com

I spent the day at home today, outside there isn’t much to see because of the thick fog. Here is a photo taken from our backyard window:

Fog in the backyard - Torbay

MC300-MS15 York-Sunbury Historical Society Collection Description (page 130)

If you are interested in any of these files then please contact the Provincial Archives of New Brunswick.

“This series contains the research notes and compilations of G. Harold Markham, of Saint John, who is numbered with those New Brunswick historians of the mid-twentieth century such as Maxwell and Manny who contributed so much to the preservation of the history of the Province.  The items here reflect a great deal of meticulous research as well as writing, and establish Markham as one who could vie for the title “New Brunswick’s Military Historian”.

Markham’s biographical notes on the New Brunswick Fencibles and the 104th Regiment should be of particular interest to genealogists, while his work on the regiments, their activities, quarters, and history should be of use to the military historians in general.  This series measures 25 centimeters.”

1  Typed manuscript of “The New Brunswick Fencibles” by G.H. Markham, (398 pp.); November 9, 1955.

2  Lists of the officers, non-commissioned officers, and privates of the Kings New Brunswick Regiment, the New Brunswick Regiment Fencible Infantry, and the 104th Regiment in 1812.

3  Biographical notes, lists, and historical sketches of the Officers of the New Brunswick Regiment of Fencible Infantry of the 104th New Brunswick Regiment.

4  Additional biographical notes, lists, and historical sketches of the officers of the 104th New Brunswick Regiment.

5  Book of “Biographical Gleanings” of the 104th Regiment.

6  Biographical notes and historical sketches on the 104th Regiment including extracts from official records.

7  Casualty list of the 104th Regiment for March 5, 1813 to November 18, 1814.

8  Extracts from the pay list of the 104th Regiment from September 25, 1812 to March 24, 1813.

9  Biographical notes, lists, and historical sketches of the Kings New Brunswick Regiment (The New Brunswick Fencibles).

10  Biographical notes, extracts from official documents, and historical sketches on the Kings New Brunswick Regiment.

11  Biographical notes, etc., on the New Brunswick Fencibles.

12  Miscellaneous notes on the New Brunswick Fencibles.

13  Extracts of the official correspondence of the New Brunswick Regiment of Fencible Infantry.

14  Index of the military officers from the Royal Kalendar of 1789.

15  Index of the military officers from the Royal Kalendar of 1807.

16  Index to the army lists in the Royal Kalendar of 1817.

17  Addenda and errata for Service of British Regiment In Canada and North America by Charles H. Stewart, 1964.

18  List of Commanders-in-Chief of the British Army, 1674-1842; and of British Secretaries-at-War, 1661-1846.

19  List of the staff of the British Army in the Provinces of Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and their dependencies including the islands of Newfoundland, Cape Breton, Prince Edward, and Bermuda, under the command of Lieutenant-General Sir John Coape Sherbrooke, 1814-1815.

20  A list of His Majesty’s Forces serving in Upper and Lower Canada from the Quebec Almanack and the British American Royal Kalendar of 1815.

21  Letter from Mrs. Wales C. Brewster to G.H. Markham containing genealogical information on Dr. Charles Earle and the Earle family; January 1956.

22  Papers on General Francis Cockburn and the Cockburn Family including letter on the General from the Phillimore & Co. Ltd. Record Searchers, chronology of the career of the General, a historical sketch of Lieutenant-Colonel Francis Cockburn, and a chart of Cockburn genealogy.

23  Papers on Lieutenant-Colonel William Drummond of Keltie including extracts from A Genealogical Memoir of the…House of Drummond by David Malcolm.  1808; a letter from the Registrar of Births, Edinburgh, 1954; a letter from Phillimore & Co., Records Searchers, 1939; and various other notes on the Lt.-Col. Drummond.

24  Papers on Captain Noah Freer and his family.

25  Papers on Captain John Jenkins, which also includes excerpts from Sir George Head’s Forest Scenes and Incidents in the Wilds of North America.

26  Papers on Lieutenant-Colonel Robert Moodie and his family.

27  List of the officers of the 104th Regiment.

28  List that compares the 104th Regiment with the St. John Militia giving biographical detail on many of the men mentioned.

29  List that compares the 104th Regiment with the grantees of Kings County.

30  List of the recorded desertions in the 104th Regiment for 1815, 1816 and 1817 giving place of desertion, date, name, commander’s name, and rank.

31  Extracts showing payments made for deserters and for recruiting of the 104th.

32  Annotated copy of the petition of Daniel Haycook and ten others belonging to the late American Legion asking for a grant on land on Grand Bay; April 22, 1785.

33  Copy of the petition of Corporal George Perkins of the Kings New Brunswick Regiment concerning land title withheld from him by David Moore; August 4, 1796.

34  Annotated copy of the petition of George Hardaker of Newcastle Parish, Northumberland County, asking for a grant of land; May 28, 1819.

35  Article on “Shiphouse Point, Smallest Naval Base” [New York State, War of 1812-1814.]

36  Article on Sacketts Harbour, New York State, includes a map.

37  Typescript of a letter from Colonel A.W. Playfair to the British Standard describing the general conditions endured by the 104th Regiment of which he was a member on their march of 1813; Bathurst, January 20, 1862.

38  A comparison of the march of the 104th Regiment and other troop movements over the same route during the “Trent Affair” of 1861-1862.

39  Note on the uniform worn by the 104th Regiment on the 1813 march to Quebec.

40  Letter from G. Harold Markham to Dr. G. Alvah Good discussing the march of the 104th; Saint John, August 8, 1957.

41   Extracts from Recollections of the War of 1812 by Surgeon William Dunlop of the 89th Regiment of Foot.

42  Unidentified extract on the battle of Lundy’s Lane.

43  Letter from G. Harold Markham to Dr. Lilian Maxwell (on a letter to him) discussing his research on the War of 1812; Saint John, October 10, 1951.

44  Manuscript plans of the battlefield and notes on the battle of Lundy’s Lane by G.H. Markham.

45  Article from the Niagara Falls Evening Review, September 11, 1941, entitled “Canadians at Lundy’s Lane” by Ernest Green.  This article was read before the Royal Society of Canada in May 1940.

46  Notes on the military quarters at Sydney, N.S.

47  Excerpt from John Stewart’s An Account of Prince Edward Island, 1806, on the defenses of Charlottetown.

48  Transcript of a “Report of all the barracks, batteries, block houses and other government buildings in the Province of New Brunswick in the year 1825″.  From Rev. W.O. Raymond scrapbook, vol. 7, page 150, in Saint John Public Library.

49  An account of Fort Ingalls at Cabano, Quebec, by Leo Bigue.

50  Transcription of “The Old Garrisons at Presqu’Isle and Grand Falls” from Rev. W.O. Raymond’s scrapbook, vol. 3, p. 247, in the Saint John Public Library.

51  Notes on the quarters of the 104th Regiment after the War of 1812.

52  Transcripts of the Regimental song, “A Soldier’s Ambition”, of the 104th Regiment written by Rev. Jonathan Odell and set to a score by David Garrick.

53  Excerpt from J.W. Lawrence’s The Judges of New Brunswick and Their Times, concerning the Trafalgar Ball given by Maj.-Gen. Hunter at the Province Hall, Fredericton in February 14, 1806.

54  Chronology of events in New Brunswick history, 1785-1851.

55  Article by G.H. Markham entitled “New Brunswick and the Gold Colony”.

56  Excerpt on the Quebec Bank, Quebec, for Mrs. Daniel MacPherson’s Old Memories, Amusing and Historical.

57  Clippings and notes on military fortifications, uniforms, personnel, and routes.

  a  Clipping re. “Sword for Col. Fowler of 104th; 1915.

  b  Christmas card with color print of “Officer of the 10th Hussars; 1835.

58  Research notes, letters, and lists on the 104th Regiment and other military subjects related to the War of 1812.

59  Letter to Lillian Maxwell re. 104th Regiment; Thomas Leonard, Sproule, and Moodie Family genealogies; 1941.

60  Pictures, photos and postcards re. March of 104th (all from Prov. of Quebec).

I try to keep away from non-WoW posts. But I wrote this today during some downtime on my trip home and I’m rather fond of it. There are a handful of topics that I’ll happily ramble on about for days and travel adventures are one of them. I don’t have a personal blog and still wanted to share, so I decided to post it here. Most of this actually happened. It was a pretty crazy trip, the usual 5 hours turned into 12, and I’m really happy to be home.

(c)2009 Google - Map data (c)2009 Google, Tele Atlas

There is more than just part of an ocean separating Newfoundland from the Canadian mainland. Even ignoring cultural boundaries, there are times when I realize I’m a long way from home. These times usually tend to be whenever I have to fly in to, or out of, the island. My whole life, when I’ve wanted to go to somewhere, I could conveniently hop on a bus or a plane. I could be anywhere in a matter of hours. Not so on “the rock”.

St. John’s, Going Nowhere

The fog settles down on us sitting in the cab pulling into the departures area. I regret not choosing an earlier flight. The horizon was clear when I got up at 6 am, but now I can barely see the building in front of me. Fog on a traveling morning means it’ll be a rough journey.

“We’re a bit behind schedule”, the friendly (shocking, I know!) agent at the check-in desk tells me, “about 40 minutes, I’d say.”

For those of you unfamiliar with Airline Speak, 40 minutes means 2 hours. Thank goodness St. John’s airport has free internet. It only took me a few moments to dash through the deserted security check and fire up my laptop. There’s nothing like whining on Twitter and doing some quick WoW dailies early in the morning.

It’s hard to focus in St. John’s airport, though. There are babies crying, obnoxious teenagers and creepy men who can’t find anything better to do than sit next to me and peak over my shoulder. I mean, I know it’s insanely fascinating to watch someone play WoW in an airport but I have a big bubble. In disgust, I shut it all down and started roaming the small room that is St. John’s airport’s gate area.

Now, let me tell you something about St. John’s: no matter where you go, you will always meet someone you know. This is true for me and I can’t begin to imagine how many people I would run into if I was actually a friendly person. I had barely made one lap when I heard the familiar “HEY!!!”. And there we go, I had company.

The two hours would have been bearable had the TVs in the airport shown videos other than of people sleeping in airports and talking about how they’re stranded in New York. The very storm that had shut down air traffic in the Northeast US had Halifax set as its next destination. Unfortunately, we also had Halifax set as our next destination. I could probably escape the storm if we boarded right away. Should the wait stretch out any longer, though, I’d miss my flight away from Halifax.

The agent at the desk took the microphone in his hand.

“Oh no, they’re going to cancel the flight” my discouraged companion sighed.

“Nono! The sign still says delayed! There’s still hope!”

I was antsy. I did not want to spend the next few days waiting for another flight to free up so I could go home.

“Flight 851 to Halifax is now boarding”

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!

But I cheered too quickly. Our plane broke down on the runaway. Welcome to another “20 minutes”, which means an hour, of delay as they fixed our plane. And my friend was seated a few rows ahead of me, so company was somewhat lacking.

Halifax, Land of Epic Adventures

Of course, I missed my flight out of Halifax. Of course, the sky was dark and ominous. The clouds hung low and the airport was ghastly silent. The silence was mainly due to all airport employees being on their lunch break, but when you just missed both your connections, when you’re exhausted and when your knees hurt from pacing in your gorgeous high heeled boots, no Airline employees is a chilling sight.

I listened to the chatter around me.

“We need to talk to an Airline agent” says a man behind me. “Should such a creature exist…”

So here I was, stuck in Halifax with no way out, an approaching storm had my name on it and my knees were really bothering me. I was really hoping to make the raid tonight too.

My buddy and I grabbed some lunch and watched some more news videos of people sleeping in airports.

I did eventually get put on a flight to Montréal.

“You’ll need to go pick up your bag at arrivals and re-check it.” the Airline agent smiled at me. “Boarding is in 15 minutes so you might want to get on that.”

Trust me, no one has ever bolted through an airport in gorgeous high heeled boots like I did, sore knees or not. My friend offered to guard my stuff while I ran. I warned her not to take off with the rest of my lunch. My laptop is fine, but I need the other half of my sandwich.

You can probably guess that they stuck me at the end of a huge bag check-in line. And that when I reached the counter, the agent’s computer decided I had been in the wrong line after all. Also, going through security without a coat or any carry on luggage? Try it sometime. They still have protocols to follow…and, after all, even though you don’t have a bag or pockets, you might still have liquids, creams or gels stashed away…somewhere.

I made it back as my travel partner was boarding, just in time to wave goodbye, get my stuff back and ensure that, indeed, she did not steal my sandwich.

I boarded 5 minutes later and, thanks to a Christmas miracle, I was not stranded on the runway this time.

Montréal and Self Discovery

A two hour layover in Montréal isn’t bad, but I’m not one to sit still long. Gorgeous high heeled boots, sore knees and all, I needed to pace. There’s one thing I love, love, love at the Montréal airport:

Moving sidewalks.

Moving sidewalks are clearly one of the greatest inventions of all time. They’re, like, super efficient walking. They make me so happy. What’s great about the Montréal ones is that they’re in a hidden, quiet tunnel. So I can get on in one direction, reach the end, get on in the other direction, reach the end, and so on. AND NO ONE WILL SEE ME.

Well, usually that’s how it goes. After a few laps, I realized I had a witness.

“Est-ce que ça va?” (Are you ok?) he asked, seemingly concerned.

Uh oh. Now I look like a weirdo who plays on moving sidewalks. Which is what I am, but I don’t want to look like it.

“Non, non, ça va!” (No, no I’m fine!) I said with conviction, acting as if I was a completely normal and sane individual. I also made a mental note of how wonderful it was to hear my language and my accent again. God, was I ever homesick.

“Ah…d’accord!” (Ah, ok!) he replied uneasily, then went on his way. I breathed for a second, then realized he’d been looking at my face funny.

Looking at my face funny is not good. I made a beeline for the washroom mirror and…HOLY SWEET MOTHER OF JESUS. Apparently, I am allergic to moving sidewalk gasses. The poor guy thought I had been bawling my eyes out for hours, because that’s how terrible I looked. Me, who’s never been allergic to anything in her life, discovered last spring that she’s allergic to her favourite, delicious coffee goodness, and now this. Why, oh why, must my immune system rob me of all life’s pleasures?

I admitted myself defeated and sat down to spend my last hour in the Montréal airport writing this. Which brings us to now.

Québec City, at the End of the Road

Actually, no, I lied. I didn’t manage to finish writing at the airport, so I can tell the rest of the story. Later on, about 12 hours after I left my house in St. John’s, I was greeted by this:

I flew in after dark so it wasn't EXATLY like this, but you get the idea.

By then, I was really crying.

I moved away, what, 7 years ago? It doesn’t get easier over time. To the contrary, it gets harder and harder. Every time I fly over the bridges, the Place Lau mall, the Université Laval, the cégeps, the feeling of relief and of longing becomes stronger. There are so many memories here, so many laughs, so many friends. This place and I, we understand each other. This is home.

I love Newfoundland, I really do and I don’t regret moving there at all. But it’s a world away. A bumpy 12 hour journey is such a small price to pay for two weeks in a place that understands you.

Happy holidays. My heart goes out to all those who don’t have the chance to get a glimpse of home this year. May you have happy holidays despite it all.

The barn in winter

We had Christmas in Lodi in alternate years from celebrating Christmas in Toronto with my other set of grandparents. In Lodi we would celebrate with my Grandma and sometimes my uncle Floyd who would return to Lodi from his home in Boston.

Christmas in Lodi with Grandma and Floydie was lots of fun, of course, with the requisite fabulous meals, lots of presents and Grandma’s wonderful baking (with the aforementioned walnuts she would have dried over the fall).

As a kid I remember staring up at a seemingly gigantic overflowing pile of presents in the elegant front stairwell of the Lodi Home Farm where they would be stored in anticipation of being slid under the Christmas tree. It was a truly magical sight for a child.

Living in the country affords folks a more immediate connection with the Christmas tree than we have in the city. No stacks of trees in grocery store parking lots imported from Quebec or the Maritimes–no, sir. I remember the family trekking out into the woods on the Golding Farm property in Lodi with a rusty saw and a toboggan cut down a tree and haul back a “wild” Christmas tree. It was cold work that somehow seemed to get less festive with every passing moment that we were standing around arguing over the perfect tree.

The most exciting thing as a kid celebrating Christmas in Lodi was that Grandma’s rules applied for the Christmas tree. These rules included coloured lights (at our home white lights were the standard) lots of gold and silver swags of tinsel and individually applied strands of silver icicles.

Somehow the Lodi Christmas tree always seemed quintessentially “American” in contrast to our various trees at home in Canada: it celebrated excess, it was incredibly colourful and a bit brash. Our Canadian trees are always more reserved and understated in contrast. (I’m allowed to make these stereotypical tree decrees, being both Canadian and American myself).

Lodi is a great place for Christmas with the snow-covered trees, the crisp, winter country air and the years and years of great family memories built up in the Home Farm house over generations of Christmases celebrated there.

acrylic painting by Gord Barnes

Today when I dropped off Marije at the Ocean Sciences Centre I just had to take some shots of the clouds over Logy Bay. I didn’t have my ‘proper’ camera with me so I used the point & shoot that I always carry with me.

Clouds over a winter landscape - Logy Bay

Clouds over a winter landscape - Logy Bay

On the way back to Torbay I stopped at the post office and shot this photo, you can see someone walking the Father Troy trail if you look closely:

Father Troy trail - Torbay

I’ve added two new pages to this blog, called Newfoundland Seasons and Online Hiking, have a look at them if you’re interested. People familiar with Newfoundland might not find much use in these pages but a new Newfoundlander or a visitor might be able to do something with the information.

Newfoundland Seasons

Online Hiking - (image credit: Bing Maps)

Strange that I’m putting this up after it’s come through Kingston.  But footage from YouTube of the Torch when it hit Newfoundland.

First up from RetroWinnipeg reports from NTV News the day before it came to St. John’s.  Included is Toni Marie anchoring at noon, Glen Carter at 5:30pm and Fred Hutton & Lynn Burry at 6pm.  Later you’ll see Toni chat with Seamus O’Regan from Canada AM as he was also a torchbearer in the area.

NTV News – Vancouver 2010 Olympic Torch Relay – Newfoundland (November 12, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mzz2chBucs

Now this is what we call a WINDY day.  Toni at Cabot Tower with the torch before her run as a speech was wrapping up.  Bit of a laugh as you can hear 2 guys saying “we love you” as she starts the walk.  I told you she’s popular.

Toni Marie Wiseman at Cabot Tower Olympic Torch Relay 2010 St. John’s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6urmopPsMw

I missed seeing this next clip before, not sure how.  The flame with all that wind, did go out for a few seconds.  Which does happen along the way.  You won’t see that on the news though. So a chance to see how it really is.

“This is just after the ceremony was held at the top of Signal Hill at Cabot Tower, as Toni Marie Wiseman started walking down the hill at the very top, the torch with all the wind went out for a few seconds and was relit again – here. It was very windy at the top and impossible to avoid, but as Toni Marie moved her way down the hill, the wind was calmer. “

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JHIqiBtwsw

Another one I missed before, probably because there wasn’t a description on the video.  But the file says “Toni with Horses” so it’s easy to figure out.  With the high winds they had extra people around her and even police on horseback.  Large crowd.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-z665k9i7Ck

Apparently the handoff is called “the kissing of the torches” as you have your torch light up the next one.  Luckily it worked even in this extreme weather.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iaXeUIsRJcc

Move on to NTV News again with reports from that Friday’s news.

Vancouver 2010 Olympic Torch Relay – Newfoundland (November 13, 2009, Part 1)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGrKMbRtbYI

Vancouver 2010 Olympic Torch Relay – Newfoundland (November 13, 2009, Part 2)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kpXVKFS56vQ

Finally Sunday’s news with Toni Marie and Larry Jay as the relay left the province.  And you get to see her torch at the end on the set.  It’s now residing at her parents’ house as a gift.  Quite nice of her.

NTV News – Vancouver 2010 Olympic Torch Relay – Newfoundland (November 15, 2009)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnFfbE1UC9o

I typed Kingston and Torch into YouTube and only got 3 results.  Part of that is we got lucky with someone from Winnipeg grabbing the NTV clips from satellite.  Manitoba and Newfoundland aren’t two places thought of being together very often.

A few days back I posted several links to Google Street View imagery right here in Newfoundland. Google is of course not the only map source on the internet and in fact there is a cool feature they don’t even offer as of this moment: I’m talking about something called Bird’s eye view. My mother in law was the one who reminded me of the Google Street View images, but she also alerted me to the fact that Bing Maps did have those cool Bird’s eye view aerial photos online for a few parts of Newfoundland.

Instead of text linking you to them, let me use the aerial photos themselves to get you there:

Bing Maps - Torbay Beach

Our beach in Torbay, as you can see the water in Newfoundland is crystal clear.

Bing Maps - Ocean Sciences Centre

Marije works at the Ocean Sciences Centre in Logy Bay. You can see a trail heading off into the hills on the left, that’s the Sugarloaf Path which is one of the trails in the East Coast Trail.

Bing Maps - Middle Cove Beach

This is Middle Cove Beach, it’s a good place to be when the Capelin arrive at the end of spring.

Bing Maps - The Battery

The Battery is an assortment of houses right on the cliffs beneath Signal Hill.

Bing Maps - Signal Hill

Signal Hill offers awesome views of the city of St. John’s, the hills surrounding St. John’s and of course of the Atlantic Ocean to the East.

Bing Maps - Fort Amherst

Near Signal Hill you’ll find Fort Amherst, in this shot you can even see a small iceberg!

Bing Maps - Gower Street

Check out all the small streets in St. John’s, this is the Gower Street area. It’s hard to see here but some of these streets are quite steep.

Bing Maps - The Rooms

Almost mimicking my previous Google Street View post, here’s a view of The Rooms and the area surrounding it.

Bing Maps - Cape Spear

Finally, Cape Spear is the Easternmost tip of North American continent.

I think I’ll be adding a dedicated ‘online maps’ page to this blog, detailing some cool stuff that Google and Microsoft (Bing) have to offer in regards to Newfoundland.

Since moving to Toronto from Newfoundland, I have been repetitively asked what exactly is mummering? Mummering takes place during the 12 days of Christmas in Newfoundland. Participants and hosts should follow the four steps listed below to experience a successful mummers party.

1) Find old clothes that you can use to disguise yourself. People tend to disguise themselves by covering their faces with a hood, scarf, mask or pillowcase. Mummering is a group activity, so get a crew together and hit the street.

2) Make sure to visit people who know you. It can be scary to let masked strangers into your home. You simply knock on their door and say “any mummers aloud in?”

3) Once in the house, the party usually takes place in the kitchen where you dance and sing for your host. At this point, spectators usually engage in a guessing game of identities and as each mummer is identified they must uncover their faces.

4) Before moving on, the host is expected to serve Christmas cake with a glass of Purity syrup, wine or Christmas grog. Once the celebration is over, you move on to restart the fun at another house.

This song released in 1982 by Simini highlights the mummering process accurately

Mummering is less popular in recent years, perhaps for obvious safety reasons. However, a revival may be in the works as this year marks the debut of the first annual Mummers Festival. Regardless, many outport communities and Newfoundland culture enthusiast will work to keep the tradition alive!

As part of my regular trawl through the blogging world here on WordPress I keep an eye on NewfoundSander.  Sander is a Dutch guy who is lucky enough to be living in (or near) St. John’s, Newfoundland, seems to have endless spare time (luckier still), and (really lucky for the rest of us) takes lots of walks around the area, cameras in hand.

Last night I came across his post Visit Newfoundland Online where he announces to all interested parties, such as me, that Google Maps have trundled their amazing Street View camera van around the St. John’s area.  His post is set out like a menu of places to visit around the area, and is well worth following up.

As I miss “The Rock” so much I couldn’t resist having a quick troll around, courtesy of Google and co, and so after a quick return visit to Cape Spear (the most easterly point in North America), I started roaming down Fort Amherst Road taking in the view of Signal Hill from the other side of the narrows and remembering the way little roads in Newfoundland such as this seem to eat into my soul.  On my visits to St. John’s I had never gone over to the south side, so this was a view of the area that was new to me.

I got to about the point where Fort Amherst Road blends into Southside Road and was drawn to the view of The Battery, the road which runs along by the water under Signal Hill.  Fascinated by what I was looking at, I then realised that there were other pictures available (courtesy of Google and Co.) and started clicking away.  This picture came up….

The Battery, St. John's (www.panoramio.com/photo/10285794)

I have driven up to Signal Hill in the past but, with so many other things to take in, had been unaware of what was below me.

What a crazy way to build houses !  It’s as if everybody wants to own the house that’s nearest to the sea, no matter what the difficulties involved.

Then today, totally coincidentally, I get an email from a friend in Vietnam with a Powerpoint presentation attached.  And guess what ?  She out-did The Battery….

Xuan Kong Si Hanging Monastery, Shanxi Province (source unknown)

Newfoundlanders, you still have a long way to go……

Given my fear of heights and the narrowness of the stairways and boardwalks at the monastery, I don’t think it will on my travel itinerary anywhere in the near future, but what is it with precarious buildings all of a sudden ?

Google has recently rolled out Street View for a small part of Newfoundland. I was already familiar with this feature back in Holland, where the city of Groningen (last place we lived) is well represented. Now, instead of me looking at Dutch streets, you can come visit us online too!

Let me give you a abbreviated list of the places I like to go which are now available through Street View:

• Spend a few minutes at Torbay beach, even though it’s closed to the public.
• Middle Cove beach is much bigger and cleaner, I go there a lot.
• Here is a lovely view of some Marine Drive scenery, on the way to work.
• Outer Cove is nice too.
• The google car didn’t make it all the way to the Ocean Sciences Centre.
• Sometimes, this is your starting point of the day.
• Afterwards, come and park your car on Signal Hill, everybody else does it.
• From the Battery you can see clear across the harbour.
• Or take a look at Signal Hill from across the Narrows.
• Here’s a pretty town with a pretty name: Quidi Vidi.
• In St. John’s, enjoy the wonderful coloured houses of Gower Street.
• Downtown St. John’s is where you go to get stuck in traffic.
• Or you can go there to get a few beers, on George Street.
• You can even see the ducks in Bowring Park.
• The Rooms is a place I want to visit some day.
• The harbour has some good views too.
• Awesome, the google car made it all the way to Cape Spear!
• And if you’re hungry, you can get some good fish & chips here.
• This is a nice place to watch the sunset in the winter.
• And when summer comes again, this is a nice sunset location too.

Now that I’m reviewing the list it almost reads like a brochure or a commercial, but that doesn’t bother me. I just think it’s nice for you to be able to have a look at the place we call home now, without flying over the Atlantic Pond.

it is SO cold!  i’m in bed with the laptop with the cat and two dogs  cuddled up close.  i love my bed warmers.

speaking of bedwarmers….meet ollie, a sweetheart newfie!  he’s big and soft and warm and cuddly.  great to keep you warm on a winter night….unless your bed isn’t big enough for everyone!

www.digitalmuzzle.com

Yesterday I hiked the Father Troy trail, connected to the Gallow’s Cove trail, walked past Church Cove to the Beamer in Flatrock, and then all the way back home again. After 12 kilometers through the snow and over the rolling hills, I was totally spent. Luckily Marije was waiting for me at home and she helped me take off my overshoes and frozen jeans. There was a huge package from Holland for us too, filled to capacity with goodies such as a christmas tree, pindakaas and hagelslag!

On the trail at Church Cove, the winds came down on me with a fierce freeze. Of course, my camera took this as a sign to misbehave again but this time I had come prepared: I had 3 cameras with me. I changed lenses and the problem migrated to the other camera, so now I know it has to be the lens. This is a good thing since now I won’t have to send in my camera this winter.

Here are some photos of the trail in various locations:

Squall overtaking Torbay - Gallow's Cove Trail

I had several of these small snow ’squalls’ overtake me during my walk. When I left Torbay all was clear but during these white outs it was hard to see beyond my direct vicinity.

Let's go to the beach! - Gallow's Cove Trail

I’ve said it before, this Gallow’s Cove trail is very different from the other East Coast Trail hikes. Out of Torbay it’s farmland and pastures, after that there’s a very long stretch through the forest before you get to the usual ‘ocean view’ path that is so distinctive for the East Coast Trail.

Skidoo tracks - Gallow's Cove Trail

For some time I was able to make good time because a skidoo had left the snow compacted underneath its tracks. After that I was able to walk in the snowshoe prints left by a hunter.

Blowing snow - Gallow's Cove Trail

The wind is cold and blows the snow everywhere. On the exposed parts of the trail my footprints got filled with snow in a matter of minutes after I made them.

Cliffs at Church Cove

This is the place my lens malfunctioned. Never in the backyard or at home, always in a beautiful place like this.

Snowy cliffs at Church Cove

This is the same place as the last shot, but from up on the cliffs in the last shot looking down.

Me on the Gallow's Cove trail

This is me on the trail, 2 camera bags on the side and a backpack behind me. As you can see, the snow isn’t half bad in the sheltered parts of the trail.

Brrrr - Gallow's Cove

This is the view of Gallow’s Cove from the trail, almost back in Torbay.

I’ve just returned to my hotel room (calcuate the actual time on being EST + 1.5 hours) after being “stranded” in St. John’s, Newfoundland due to weather complications (see my previous tweets that two flights were cancelled)…

As a summary I’d like to say that Newfoundland’ers DEFINITELY live up to their hospitable stereotype!  I wandered down the street from my hotel to a local pub that happened to have some lovely AND Lively music playing outside which enticed me to walk in and check out the atomsphere–that was at 8pm local time–it is now 2:06am…

That’s almost enough said–but I would like to hightlight that almost ironically and poetically I ended up being invited into a Thursday night Kitchen Party by a group of Air Canada employees–the same group (I mean company) that stranded me in St. John’s.  What a wonderful bunch of people these people were–they openly invited me to their “table” since I was that “lonely” guy sitting by myself sipping a pint and eating a club sandwich by myself.  Not ten minutes later I knew all about their families, their jobs, and why St. John’s & Newfoundland was the best place to live in Canada.

I’ve already managed to type WAY TOO MUCH but I hope that I have captured the essence of St. John’s, NL–and if not–please email or call me to elaborate further as I’d be happy to TRY to convey the welcoming atmosphere that this city (and people) exude…

Three days after the winter storm we’re receiving a bit more snow here in Newfoundland. Staring out of my basement apartment window I can see the snow is starting to reach eye level, from time to time a small bird hops by inspecting the few plants that are tall enough to still periscope out of the snow. There isn’t much to do on a day like today, a walk outside would be nice but I left my overshoes in the trunk of the car, which is at work. Instead, I’m mulling over last year’s photos of winter and seeing an uncanny resemblance to last week’s shots, I need to find some new places to photograph this winter…

I know a text only post looks very bleak, so here’s a shot from a few days ago. It’s all the same white stuff anyway:

Snowy cliffs below Marine Drive - Middle Cove

The colours look a bit murky, that’s because it was shot in the fading light after sunset.

Well we finally got some snow in Newfoundland. It has snowed before on a few occasions but never more than an inch, yesterday it snowed all day and night so today we got plenty. I went for an early morning walk to enjoy the pristine snow cover on the Red Cliff Path. On the way to the trailhead I saw lots of people clearing their driveway, can’t have any of that white stuff near the house now can we. Some folks were using a machine that blew all the snow from one side of their driveway to the other, or worse yet: on to the road I was driving!

Anyway, on the trail there was a massive amount of snow. The easy part through the forest had about 20cm everywhere and it was hard to see where the trail ended and the forest started. You might think this is not a big deal but a long stretch of this path has an elevated boardwalk over a boggy marsh. Luckily I brought a trekking pole so I could poke through the snow to find out where to step next.

Out on the bare hills the going got tough, so I got going. The blowing snow had driven up the snow to over a meter on the path, I had a hard time getting through, it must have taken me at least half an hour to get through 200 meters of waist deep snow. The experience was rewarding though, I was treated to a great sunrise spectacle. Not so rewarding was the fact that my camera controls had frozen up (again). Fortunately I had brought my little point & shoot camera, which is totally weatherproof. On the way in I had inadvertently  dropped the thing while taking off a glove, it fell in the snow and rolled under the boardwalk into the freezing marsh water, I picked it up, wiped it clean and the camera kept going like noting had happened.

Here’s some shots from this morning:

Easy part of the trail, the forest - Red Cliff Path

Leaving the forest - Red Cliff Path

This picture here show a small snowdrift, leaning up to the tree on the left is snow up to my elbows. I kept to the right when passing here.

Self Portrait taken from footprint

This is on the way back already, if my main camera had kept working I would have stayed longer to take some awesome shots of the sunrise. Instead I fooled around with my small point & shoot, here’s a shot taken from a footprint in snow a about 60cm deep. I think I’m buying some snowshoes soon, those will get me to where I’m going a lot quicker and easier.

My tracks in the snow - Red Cliff Path

Snowy forest - Torbay

On the way back I took this shot, in the background you can see the hills of Torbay.

Ok, so I’ve never seen or done this – just heard about it. First, you must understand that Newfoundlanders are crazy and always up for a good time.

As I understand it, the mummers dress up in random pieces of crazy clothing so that they are unrecognizable. Then, between Christmas and January 6th (the 12 days of Christmas, yo!) they go out and knock on their neighbours doors and yell “ANY MUMMERS ALLOWED IN??”. And then the neighbours have to let them in and give them food and drink, then try to guess who they are. There may or may not be music and jamming involved. There is even an element of cross-dressing in the mix.

Doesn’t this sound like the most awesome thing ever? I’m half tempted to try it, except I’m not sure how that would go over out west.

Newfoundland Mists, Sea and Dance

“Give us song,” the dark-haired beauty called out from the doorway of one of the many Celtic pubs and taverns in St. John’s, Newfoundland’s upbeat capital.

The young men sitting around the table smiled, and the patrons hoisted drinks and called for a song.

“Give us a tune,” she laughed boldly, tossing her hair carelessly.

The hand-held drum vibrated slowly.

The flute played its thin, haunting melody.

The fiddler stirred the crowd.

Toes tapped.

And a song was sung, a melody of lovers who this time triumphed over the unforgiving sea and the starkly beautiful land.

There’s something about Newfoundland that gets under your skin.

It comes from the disarmingly warm and open people.

And it comes from the aching loneliness of the surrounding sea where Lilliputian villages snuggle against the craggy faces of cliffs.

This Atlantic province is not for the tourist rushing from one photo op to another or shopping for couture in designer shops.

It’s a destination to in-gather your thoughts; to marvel at the taciturn men with laughing ways and easy quips readying boats for weeklong fishing trips.

It’s a place to respect the survival skills of villagers living in six or seven homes perched precariously on the edge of the sea.

These are a self-reliant people, fiercely independent but unfailingly eager to help. They’ll always offer a tale or two over a pint or just a chat by the side of the road.

And Newfoundland’s arts and culture deeply reflect the values and experiences of these ordinary lives, the deep community ties of this isolated place.

In the nearby cellar of the Anglican cathedral lots of Jane Marple look-alikes serve tea and crumpets in the crypt.

These blue and white haired ladies took a decrepit church basement and gaily painted its vaulted arches and catacombs.

They added tables in the coves and covered them with colorful china and cloths. With lots of “Here you are, mi Luv,” and “OK, Dearie,” they serve homemade pastries, scones, jams and non-stop conversation.

They have stories to tell.

Many of them live in the brightly colored homes of St. John’s, the deep blues and reds and greens echoing the color of the boats bobbing in ports, defiant splashes of life against a brooding sky and dark sea.

Gillian Marx, the province’s media representative, talked to us over a terrific dinner of grilled, glazed salmon, a good Pinot Grigio and crispy fried cod tongues. “Our winters are long and deep,” she said, “and so Newfoundlanders gathered in kitchens and played fiddles, hooked rugs, sang songs and told dramatic tales about the men who went down in the sea. They sang of the land and our struggle, and so our story telling tradition was born.”

The tradition is alive and well in the exuberant, kinetic three day Newfoundland and Labrador Folk Festival.

It lives in the comic skills of the buskers wandering the streets, performing on corners and the plazas of St. John’s.

For a population of only 530,000, Newfoundland has more art galleries, pubs, festivals and celebrations that would seem reasonable. While most of them are in St. John’s, every community in this vast island has some celebration.

Mostly they celebrate the summer and the blessed end of winter.

They celebrate with jigs, dinners and jazz.

They have dory races, potato festivals, craft fairs and 3-foot blueberry pie eat-ins.

There are mooseburgers, family pig roasts and historic walks.

And there’s the sweeping, dramatic provincial gallery: The Rooms.

Perched on a hill in St. John’s and barely a year old, The Rooms is an elegant construction of glass, chrome and surfaces that reflect the sea, seen from every angle and position.

Newfoundland artist, Christopher Pratt, brilliantly mirrors the distinct geography and culture of the island.

His work is the grand narrative of the snow, the sea and the land of Newfoundland and Labrador. But his personal style and technique carry the images of snow swept roads or isolated communities well into the realm of the universal, stirring those archetypical emotions of loneliness and awe.

And hope.

When you Go

Getting There

Newfoundland is a huge island, mostly uninhabited. Air Canada and Continental fly into St. John’s, and it’s possible to take the Maritime Atlantic Ferry via Port aux Basques from North Sydney, Nova Scotia, to the west coast. The drive to St. John’s along the Trans-Canada Highway to St. John’s is 543 spectacular miles.

Best time to visit is between the snow and the flowers, late June to early October.

St. John’s

The hilly, colorful capital of Newfoundland and Labrador is packed with quirky shops, pubs, restaurants, bars and art galleries. The colored houses are a delight, and the shops are all local ones.

Must See:

Auntie Craes. On Water Street (the main drag), this combination of country general store and specialty deli has terrific cheeses, home baked goods and great coffee. Try the partridgeberry jam.

Velma’s. Also on Water Street, Velma’s serves Newfoundland food and does a brisk business in seafood (including Cod Tongues) and other local specials.

Blue on Water. Probably the best “fine dinning” in St. John’s. On Water Street, Blue is also a 7-room boutique hotel.

Where to Stay

Skip the big chains and opt for a more authentic experience, like the many B & B’s and inns ranging from the elegant to the offbeat.

Murray Premises Hotel (www.murraypremiseshotel.com) is a perfectly located small hotel with classic old-world touches and modern amenities.

What to Do

Rent a car at the airport and see as many festivals in and around St. John’s as possible.

Explore the Southern Avalon Route and take side roads into fishing villages.

Visit the Witless Bay Ecological Reserve (about an hour’s drive from St. John’s) and see the humpback whales, Atlantic puffins and maybe some icebergs.

Tip

Visit the perfect little harbor of Quidi Vidi (15 minutes from downtown). Find the small tipsy tavern, have a local beer and if you’re lucky, a story or two.

In Portuguese Cove (about 20 minutes from downtown), have lunch at The Ferry Last Stop Café. It’s one of the most imaginative cafés on the island with creatively presented cuisine.

Of course, visit The Rooms (www.TheRooms.ca)

Help

www.gov.nf.ca/tourism/

1-800-563-NFLD

Back in Holland everybody is celebrating the Dutch version of Christmas, in which Sinterklaas goes around spreading joy instead of Santa Claus. Instead of a sleigh with reindeer he rides a big white steed, and instead of Elves he has a merry band of Black Peters who help him out with all the presents.

Of course, here in Newfoundland the real Sinterklaas treats are nowhere to be found so we decided to make our own delicious goodies:

Pepernoten

Roomborstplaat

We had a bit of snowfall this morning, but it melted quickly during the day. Next weekend we are expecting a bit more, let’s hope that prediction holds up. In the mean time I have some falling snowflakes on this blog for your enjoyment