Before Crossing the Albanian-Macedonian Border

If you are thinking of joining the Caravan as it makes its way through Macedonia, Greece and Turkey (Thrace) to Istanbul, then have a watch of this video, which will give you some impression of the wonderful experience we all had this year in Albania.

You can look at the 2010 Caravan schedule and sign-up at the Via Egnatia Foundation website.

Polar Bear Sustainche™ leaves Macedonia. Some of Sustainche’s Blog readers might have noticed already that he packed a small parcel in his post on The Grapes of Wrath. Yes, Sustainche now lines up with those young people who leave Macedonia for ever. We know that Sustainche doesn’t need any travel document to go anywhere he likes on Planet Earth. Starting from 1^st January 2010 also Macedonian youngsters won’t need a Schengen visa … . 

Sustainche™ did in Macedonia what he had to do: His mission was to create the climate for change towards a better quality of life; Sustainche’s mission is and always will be Sustainable Development ! 

Somehow Sustainche has the strange feeling that Macedonians only like those people whom they lost; also Tose was not appreciated by all who mourned after his short lifetime. Never mind, now it is time to leave the territory. Macedonia has had its chance. Sustainche kindly asks pardon for his great passion in promoting Sustainable Development in Macedonia. Sustainche would have been glad if HE, who can only speak with his BIG RED HEART, could pardon many others for the same passion in favour of Sustainable Development as well. 

Wishing ‘Golden Macedonia’ all the best,
Sustainche

Dopo aver lasciato Okhrid, e aver attraversato Bitola e Krushevo, sono arrivato a Prilep. Ecco le mie note in data 1 Luglio.

Prilep, 19.30

Tutto bene.

An image of the general insurrection, painted against the wall of a building, in Prilep.

Sono molto stanco, e anche un po’ raffreddato, viste tutte le sudate che  quasi quotidianamente mi faccio. Oggi ho macinato 6 ore di bus in montagna, da Okhrid a Bitola prima, da Bitola a Krushevo poi, e infine da Krushevo a Prilep, dove ho camminato per mezz’ora a piedi mentre diluviava, cercando una pensione indicata sulla mia cartina ma che sembrava introvabile (in Macedonia le strade si trasformano in fiumi quando piove forte, tanto l’impianto di drenaggio e’ tenuto male…). Ho deciso allora di cercare riparo dalla pioggia torrenziale sotto il portico d’ingresso di una scuola superiore, incuriosendo un’insegnante e la direttrice che, entrambe molto gentili, hanno discusso tra di loro in macedone per 15 minuti su dove potesse trovarsi questa fantomatica pensione (senza tradurmi niente), per poi chiamare, alla fine e a mia insaputa, un taxi su cui l’insegnante e’ salita con me, mi ha accompagnato fino in pensione, e si e’ persino rifiutata di farmi pagare! Se questa non e’ ospitalita’… Anche l’altro giorno, ad Okhrid, ho chiesto informazioni in una libreria sull’esatta posizione del Monastero di Treskavec, e la commessa, che parlava inglese, ha discusso per 10 minuti sul mio problema con un’altra cliente, cercando di darmi una risposta attendibile – per poi telefonare, addirittura, a due suoi amici studiosi di teologia nella speranza di darmi una risposta! La gentilezza macedone mi ha folgorato.A Okhrid sono diventato amico di Stojan, che mi ha ospitato per due notti  (anche li il maltempo non ha dato tregua, cosi’ come anche a Tetovo e Skopje in precedenza) e mi ha naturalmente invitato a tornare e a rimanere in citta’ piu’ a lungo, suo ospite. Nei Balcani l’amicizia e’ presa davvero sul serio. Ieri sera Stojan e’ riuscito a farmi mangiare la carpa in un posto di sua conoscenza, nonostante una legge nazionale che ne vieti la pesca e il consumo. Si tratta di una vera prelibatezza, e d’altra parte Stojan se ne intende, visto che la sua famiglia fece fortuna con la pesca. Mi ha raccontato di come alcuni ristoratori la peschino illegalmente di notte, con barchine piccole e spesso a remi, anche se pare che la polizia pattugli il lago con qualche motovedetta. I deliziosi tranci di una carpa gigante, fritti e serviti con verdure lessate, erano davvero economici (circa 11 euro a testa, tutto incluso), e questo sorprende davvero, vista la difficolta’ di reperirla. Mi chiedo se ci sia un traffico di carpe dal settore albanese del lago, e le vaghe risposte di Stojan paiono poterlo confermare…

Monument to Nikola Karaev, father of the Krushevo Republic.

L’unica cosa che al momento piu’ complica i miei piani e rovina il mio viaggio e’ il maltempo, che purtroppo e’ previsto per tutta la settimana e che rischia di rovinare la mia avventura di domani (hike di 10 km per raggiungere il remoto Monastero di Treskavec). Cerchero’ di partire presto e di andare avanti finche’ il tempo lo permettera’. La salita sara’ impegnativa, poiche’ non ci sono sentieri chiaramente indicati, su un’area abbastanza estesa, e perche’ in circolazione pare non esserci alcuna mappa della zona…

Oggi sono passato da Krushevo, una tappa veloce ma interessante (anche se piccola) per la sua storia. Oltre ad essere il paese “piu’ in alto in tutti i Balcani”, storicamente e’ da qui che parti’ l’insurrezione generale contro i Turchi (Ilinden) nell’Agosto del 1903, guidata da Nikola Karayev, nativo del posto ed eroe nazionale. I macedoni riuscirono a instaurare una repubblica (Repubblica di Krushevo) che duro’ purtroppo solo 10 giorni (dopo i quali la regione fu ricatturata dai Turchi che, come spesso accade in questi casi, sterminarono tutti i leader dell’insurrezione, oltre che sfortunati civili in lunghe rappresaglie), anche se l’esperienza dell’Ilinden, e della Repubblica di Krushevo, rimangono tutt’oggi nell’immaginario collettivo come elemento fondante l’identita’ nazionale.

Ora vado perche’ sono stanco…

Dimenticavo, secondo calcoli fatti – e tabelle di marcia serrata in stile Sierra Maestra 1956-1958 – dopo la discesa e il ritorno a Prilep (domani vorrei infatti restare a dormire al Monastero), dovrei prendere autobus per Bitola, e poi taxi o autostop per il confine. Una volta in Grecia, raggiungere Florina, a piedi o in autostop, e da li’ prendere finalmente il treno per Salonicco (non esistono infatti treni da Bitola a Salonicco). In caso qualcosa non quadri restero’ a dormire a Florina o a Bitola… ma e’ certo che se ce la facessi, arriverei a Salonicco stanchissimo!

A presto,

e.

Lasciata Tetovo e attraversata Struga, ecco i miei commenti dalla citta’ di Okhrid, sul lago omonimo, in data 30 Giugno.

Zdravo,

Lake from Struga

in questo momento sono ad Okhrid, citta’ sul bellissimo ed omonimo lago. Sono arrivato dopo una veloce visita a Struga (una sorta di “Riccione macedone”, piena di turisti macedoni e bulgari), che non ha davvero nulla di significativo a parte una notevole Chiesa ortodossa. Okhrid e’ di tutt’altro livello, e mostra il suo lato migliore nella citta’ vecchia, con un labirinto di viuzze e stradine che si snodano su una collina a picco sul lago, e protetta dalle grosse mura di protezione costruite dagli ottomani. Dall’altra parte della citta’ ci sono alcune moschee, a sottolineare la presenza albanese anche cosi’ a Sud. D’altronde sono relativamente vicino al confine albanese (penso 45 minuti di macchina).

A view of the Lake of Okhrid.

Il lago e’ molto grande, con la sponda occidentale che e’ parte del territorio albanese, e difficile da raggiungere. Sulla sponda macedone ci sono diverse foreste e una straordinaria Chiesa degna di nota, e raggiungibile via acqua (Sveti Naum). Poco lontano da Okhrid c’e’ anche una meravigliosa villa bianca che era una volta la residenza estiva di Tito, ed e’ ora residenza del nuovo Presidente macedone George Ivanov (e prima di lui, Branko Crvenkovski).Mentre ero seduto in una panchina del centro, ho conosciuto Alex, editore serbo del National Geographic (edizione di Serbia e Montenegro), ed abbiamo chiacchierato per circa mezz’ora di storia e Cristianesimo Ortodosso e Cattolico, mentre aspettava la moglie e la figlia.

Ho conosciuto anche un personaggio folkloristico di Okhrid, Stojan, guida turistica locale di Okhrid per bulgari, russi e serbi. La famiglia di Stojan era una volta una delle piu’ ricche di Okhrid, grazie a una concessione in esclusiva per lo sfruttamento della pesca nel settore nord del lago (le carpe di Okhrid sono le piu’ grandi al mondo e, pare, le piu’ deliziose), ottenuta dalle autorita’ ottomane. Purtroppo con il progressivo declino dell’impero Ottomano e’ cominciata anche la caduta in disgrazia della sua famiglia, prima con la liberalizzazione delle licenze per la pesca, poi con la Seconda Guerra mondiale e infine con la costruzione della Jugoslavia comunista. Oggi la famiglia e’ completamente decaduta, ma Stojan e i suoi fratelli possiedono ancora alcune case caratteristiche in giro per la citta’. Vista la ricchezza particolare della sua famiglia durante l’espansione urbana della citta’ in epoca ottomana, alla sua famiglia appartengono alcune case costruite sul lago, vecchie e bisognose di intervento, ma affacciate sulle acque del lago nella citta’ vecchia.

The Church of Sveti Sofia, in the old town of Okhrid.

Stojan e’ un personaggio singolare. Sicuramente onesto, ma come molti balcanici vede complotti ovunque (da lui ho sentito il complotto di fanta-politica piu’ assurdo che abbia mai sentito, e che spiegherebbe la crisi economica mondiale con un’operazione russa di aspirazione del petrolio americano in Alaska con pompe sotterranee!), e come molti macedoni slavo-ortodossi attribuisce agli albanesi la causa dei principali problemi del paese. Mi racconta del suo partito politico (nota per il futuro: mai mettersi a parlare di politica con un balcanico senza essere disposti ad entrare in discussioni dalla durata biblica), il VMRO (leggi “vem-ro”), partito di centro-destra nazionalisteggiante (il nome si potrebbe tradurre cosi’: “Partito dell’Unita’ Nazionale Macedone”), diretto erede dell’IMRO, organizzazione terroristica (secondo Greci e Serbi) o criminale (secondo i Bulgari) ma per i macedoni movimento di liberazione nazionale, attivo tra la fine del XIX e inizio del XX secolo. Il giovane governo greco, ricordo dalle mie letture alla LSE, considerava l’IMRO come una setta segreta sostenuta dalla Bulgaria per ottenere Salonicco, citta’ in cui l’IMRO era veramente forte.

E’ difficile, anzi impossibile, prendere posizione rispetto ai nazionalismi balcanici senza finire con l’offendere qualcuno… e’ ancora presto per dire la mia sulla “questione macedone“. Forse lo faro’, forse no. Molti di questi dibattiti si risolvono infatti spesso in infiniti (e inutili) litigi storici sfruttati da accademici e da politici populisti, rovinando i rapporti tra paesi.

Grecia e Bulgaria negherebbero l’esistenza di minoranze macedoni sul proprio territorio, negando uno status legalmente riconosciuto alla loro identita’ etno-nazionale. Stojan mi ricorda come durante la dittatura di Ioannis Metaxas in Grecia, migliaia di famiglie macedoni furono scacciate dalla Grecia del Nord, con conseguenti perdite di proprieta’ che seguono, come di consueto, questi atti di pulizia etnica. In epoca molto piu’ antica, invece, forse si puo’ ricordare come i greci considerassero spesso i macedoni con sufficienza, alla stregua pastori e ignoranti. Incivili, insomma, rispetto all’eleganza formale dell’educazione e delle arti ateniesi, e all’ordine politico proto-democratico delle citta’-stato (che evidentemente contrastavano con l’assetto politico dei regni macedoni, molto piu’ simili a dittature militari). C’era in questo una parte di vero. Ma ben prima dell’apogeo alessandrino, con la diffusione della cultura ellenica in giro per il Mondo, un grande ruolo nel piegare molti dei pregiudizi greci verso i macedoni lo ebbe Filippo II (fondatore di Bitola, dove saro’ tra due giorni), riformatore del Regno macedone e anticipatore dell’invasione della Persia.

The marvellous Church of Sveti Jovan.

D’altro canto trovo ridicolo che i politici macedoni si aggrappino a un nazionalismo populista vetusto lanciando proposte come quella di costruire un monumento ad Alessandro Magno nella piazza principale di Skopje (o Shqupi, in albanese). Sono in vendita ovunque t-shirts di Alessandro Magno e bandiere macedoni. Alessandro Magno era di discendenza macedone, ma di cultura greca. Tuttavia non e’ per essere nato a Pella (nell’odierna Grecia) che la Grecia puo’ rivendicarne la “grecita’ “, quasi fosse un fatto identitario esistenziale per i greci. Alessandro Magno (Megas Alexandros, in greco, versus Veliki Aleksandar, in serbo/macedone) e’ greco in quanto educato secondo i canoni greci, e in quanto “ellenizzatore” del mondo (e non certo “macedonizzatore”), diffondendo i pilastri della cultura classica fin nel cuore piu’ remoto dell’Asia – e questo e’ patrimonio di tutta la cultura occidentale, e forse non solo. Insomma, un patrimonio storico che dovrebbe unire anziche’ dividere. E’ un dibattito politico sterile.

Ora pero’ e’ tempo di visitare Okhrid.

Domani forse partiro’ per Prilep, dove penso di farmi un hike di 10 km fino al remoto Monastero di Treskavec, gestito da un solo monaco – Padre Kalist. Il Monastero e’ quello in cui e’ girata la prima parte del capolavoro macedone “Prima della Pioggia” (di Milkho Manchevski). Il film pero’ e’ girato in diverse localita’, e la Chiesa che si vede nell’apertura del film, sul lago azzurro, e’ invece qui ad Okhrid (Sveti Jovan, stupenda). Cerchero’ di procurarmi una mappa della zona di Prilep, ma il sentiero che intendo fare e’ il piu’ semplice. Direi che la Macedonia merita davvero di esser vista a fondo, e visto che Padre Kalist parla inglese perfettamente, puo’ essere un’esperienza interessante.

In seguito dovrei andare a Bitola, dove conto di passare – a piedi – il confine con la Grecia: li’, immancabilmente, si trovano due monumenti ad Alessandro Magno su entrambi i lati del confine.

Ciao (come dicono anche qui),

e.

Sustainche is a bit irritated ! After the latest EU Progress Report for the Republic of Macedonia as of 14 October 2009 was published, various Macedonian politicians as well as hand-selected citizens were immediately shown jubilating on the TV news. Well, Sustainche is not sure whether these people had enough time to carefully read the report. It might be that the enthusiasm is the result of only reading the first sentence of certain chapters. Something like …
“Good progress has been made in strengthening and implementing the anti-corruption framework, which is a key priority of the Accession Partnership.”
Sustainche knows that EU bureaucrats write their reports in a very special manner. Thus, it is always good to continue until the end, which reads for example …
“Nevertheless, corruption remains prevalent and continues to be a serious problem in many areas. Continued efforts are needed, in particular as regards implementation of the legal framework.”

Hmmm … Sustainche understands this to be good progress on low level …

Never mind, the EU assessment system phrasing is highly sophisticated. In all chapters there is a similar structure:
Good progress / Progress / Some progress / Uneven progress / Little progress / No progress has been achieved …
… capacity … has been strengthened …
… although in other areas administrative capacity remains weak …
Alignment with the acquis requires further sustained efforts, in particular on thorough implementation of the legislation adopted. 

It goes on and on like this, chapter by chapter … .

Sustainche doesn’t want to spoil Macedonians’ happiness, but he feels that at the end of the day it is always a matter of implementation and enforcement what is the REAL and prevailing problem in this territory ! However, as The Architect of the Matrix already recognized: ‘Denial is the most predictable of all human responses.’

Apropos ‘sustained’ efforts: Progress concerning the ‘National Strategy for Sustainable Development in the Republic of Macedonia’ is not reported AT ALL …

Enjoy your day !
Sustainche

Before getting on the bus last night, I nipped to the restaurant I’d gone to the night before. I then filled myself up with penne arrabiata and left. Just the trick.

I also had time to do a bit of research for getting to Thessaloniki, there are many different options with different complication, price and duration levels. The most promising is the train from Skopje to Thessaloniki on Saturday at 17:15 getting in at 22:34. Though this would mean going back on myself and I refuse to do that, so what I want to try and do is pick the same train up at Gevgelija on the Macedonian/Greek border at 19:55. This morning I need to look at how to get to Gevgelija from Ohrid and also somehow confirm with the Macedonian railways that the train details on the German Rail site are correct. This also means that I’ll stay another night in Ohrid.

While on the bus I entertained myself in a multitude of ways; I read some more of ‘Don Quixote’ which I’m now 60.40% into, I messed about with the simply brilliant Bebot iPhone app which I’d bought for a quid that day, I listened to loads of music in Itunes and Spotify (mainly to keep from hearing the truly terrible usual pap that comes with the buses in these parts, I don’t mind going on record as saying that the Balkans has produced some of the worst music to ever grace this planet) and lastly I came up with the below.

Fri 16 – Ohrid
Sat 17 – Night train
Sun 18 – Athens
Mon 19 – Athens
Tues 20 – Night ferry
Wed 21 – Taormina
Thurs 22 – Taormina
Fri 23 – Siracusa
Sat 24 – Palermo
Sun 24 – Night ferry
Mon 26 – Naples
Tues 27 – Naples
Wed 28 – Rome
Thurs 29 – Rome
Fri 30 – Rome
Sat 31 – Florence
Sun 1 – San Marino
Mon 2 – Venice
Tues 3 – Venice
Wed 4 – Milan
Thurs 5 – Vaduz
Fri 6 – Munich
Sat 7 – Munich
Sun 8 – Zurich
Mon 9 – Bern
Tues 10- Geneva
Wed 11 – Monaco
Thurs 12 – Andorra
Fri 13 – Madrid
Sat 14 – Madrid
Sun 15 – Madrid
Mon 16 – Lisbon
Tues 17 – Lisbon
Wed 18 – Seville
Thurs 19 – Seville
Fri 20 – Valenicia
Sat 21 – Valenicia
Sun 22 – St Jean D’ Angely
Mon 23 – St Jean D’ Angely
Tues 24 – St Jean D’ Angely
Wed 25 – St Jean D’ Angely
Thurs 26 – Normandy (town/city TBC)
Fri 27 – Normandy (town/city TBC)
Sat 28 – Normandy (town/city TBC)
Sun 29 – Paris
Mon 30 – Paris

Now this is anything but set in stone and probably unachievable really, a lot of it is based on guestimates on travel times but it’s a rough plan at least. I’m already missing plenty off that I’d like to fit in and another month would be perfect, the way I see it though I’ve a lifetime to comeback and fill in all the gaps.

I got a cool stamp when leaving Albania, whoo! That was the good bit of customs.

On the Macedonian side was the bad bit. Things took ages, my bus that was due in Struga at 23:30 didn’t actually get in until 02:00 because they kept us sitting there on it for hours and then we were standing outside for another 45 minutes or so in weather on par with a Mancunian January. Finally for some reason we then went on a different bus, I’ve no idea what it was all about and I didn’t even get a stamp for all my troubles. I rang the hostel at about 1 in the morning and the bloke said he’d wait up luckily. I’m now not a fan of Macedonian customs, though maybe it was the bus company’s fault, who knows.

It was even hard work after that. I knew Struga should be about 15 minutes from the border and when I saw a sign saying it was 2KM away I kept alert. Then the bus pulled over and it was clearly not a bus station or in any way what could be considered a town, I was worried. Of course no one spoke English so I was in a bit of a pickle. I gathered just about from the driver that this was indeed deemed as the Struga stop but there was no taxi rank. An old woman and a young lad had got off the bus and a taxi pulled up from nowhere for them, the driver was gesturing and I took it that he was advising me to get involved with that taxi before it scarpered. It was pretty much my only choice after all and if that was a no go I would have been stranded 15KM from where I needed to be in the cold and rain with no plan B.

The taxi driver didn’t speak a word of Blighty talk but I showed him the address and asked how much and after a little bit of confusion (all the while with my foot in a big puddle) I finally got that he’d take me there for €5. So he dropped the other people off in Struga (where the bus had stopped was on the outskirts then) and then proceeded to go to Ohrid. But he didn’t know the guesthouse, so then he stopped and asked another driver and we ended up following him, at this point I think he was trying to say it was €5 to here and more beyond. As none of this was in English though I wasn’t sure and certainly wasn’t going to help him out in that respect.

We ended up on some street in the pitch black and the other driver assured us this was it, though the place they were pointing at didn’t look right to me. While checking the address on my phone he then inadvertently deleted the email which had the address and directions from the centre (which I was going to use to try and find it on foot), so rather miffed and dejected I paid him and set out on a bit of a hopless task to find the place.

Within seconds I’d walked past it, whoo! So he had dropped me on the right street after all just not at the right house. Phew.

A bit of a nightmare journey all round really. But just after 3 I was finally in bed and enjoying the fact that there were 2 large blankets to keep me warm.

Though it transpired that they weren’t enough and I had to dig my sleeping bag out at 6 in the morning. I got a solid 4 hours after that.

One thing I’ve forgot to mention is that since I’ve been in Macedonia, Montenegro and Albania, power cut are very regular. I suggest if you’re a gamer to save very often or have a back-up generator?

The place (Antonio Guesthouse) I’m staying is alright, not much fun but I’ve privacy and it’s clean, cheap and secure. It’s advertised as having WiFi everywhere but the router is in the adjacent building and the signal is that weak that I lose it every minute and have to manually reconnect, is driving me mad!

When I got out and about today the first thing I went to do was have a look at the actual lake which is lovely, but I have to say I think there are better in Cumbria.

Then I was just mooching around the old cobbled streets and came across a few historical landmarks, first up was the Church of St. Sophia, next was Czar Samuel’s Fortress (which offers the best views available of the town) and lastly the Plaosnik Monastery (I found it to be a serenely peaceful place, though it helped that I was the only person in it).

I’d never had roasted chestnuts before and you see plenty of street sellers flogging them round this side of Europe so I finally gave them a try. I shall be having them again in the not so distant future.

Just an afternoon was long to see the sights of Ohrid really as they’re all very close together, though I imagine that in the summer you could happily spend a few days here. It’s a nice place.

After that I walked to the bus station so I know where I’ll be going tomorrow and also to get times and prices. My plan to get to Gevgelija and pick up the train to Thessaloniki is in tatters as even though it’s closer, it involves 2 or 3 changes which could be complicated or lengthy for all I know. There is another quicker option but it involves crossing the border between bus stations in a taxi and it could work out to be pretty expensive. So, even though I don’t like it, I’ll have to go back to Skopje in the morning which will take around 3.5 hours and then wait round a few hours there before getting the train I mentioned earlier. Boo.

By this time I was well in need of a substantial meal and I was getting a bit bored of pasta, pizza or lasagna all the time. I was full of the cold, tired and weak and wanted a meat feast God damn it.

I found a nice little restaurant doing a mixed grill but they had no room at the inn, man. Then eventually I came across a large but completely dead (I was the only one in it, not a good sign eh) called B.A.D Restaurant, what a terrible name.

I ordered ‘Alexander’s Sword’ (pork, veal and chicken on a large skewer with salad and fries). It certainly met the substantial requirement and the meat was all very tasty, so a good selection. The obligatory local beer I had was in Cyrillic so I don’t know the name.

I figured out why the place was empty though, when I came in they put on and turned up that music I have had to face on the buses a lot recently. I’m honestly really looking forward to getting out of the Balkans to escape it as it’s everywhere, they all seem to love it as well.

3 of Cobra Killer’s first 4 albums (Cobra Killer, 76/77 and Das Mandolinenorchester) are what I’ve listened to today. There is a bit of hype around the German outfit at the moment apparently and I think it very unjustified, all 3 of the albums are boring and juvenile. They should take a look at Crystal Castles to see how that sort of thing should be executed. Avoid them like the bubonic plague (which incidentally around 3000 people a year are still diagnosed with, I discovered last night on the National Geographic channel). One thing I should say to be fair, the hype is about their 5th and latest album which I haven’t heard, the predecessors have left me with absolutely no desire to though.

I spent the next few hours in an internet cafe and it’s here that I discovered that all my planning for Thessaloniki was a waste of time. There’s no hostels there and I’m not paying for 2 nights in a hotel, bugger. So I will go straight to Athens. I still need to go to Skopje and in fact I’ll need to get the same train to Thessaloniki, but then change there to get in Athens at about half 5 in the morning. On the plus side it frees up a few extra days. I’ve amended my rough plan above already, it didn’t even survive a day!

So tomorrow day and night (and well into the next day) will be a complete day of transit, I can’t say I’m relishing it.

The Venerable Pelagia

Pelagia was a repentant sinner. She was born to pagan parents in Antioch, and was endowed by God with great physical beauty. Pelagia used her beauty to the destruction of her own soul and those of others. She became very wealthy as a result of her prostitution.

Once, while walking past the Church of the Holy Martyr Julian, in which Bishop Nonnus was preaching, she stopped in and heard a sermon on the Dread Judgment and the punishment of sinners. Those words so shook her and changed her that she immediately felt revulsion for herself, acquired true fear of God, repented of all her sins and fell down before St. Nonnus with the plea that he baptize her: ” Have mercy on me, a sinner, holy Father. Baptize me and teach me repentance-I am a sea of iniquity, an abyss of destruction, a net and weapon of the devil.”

Thus this penitent begged the hierarch of Christ with tears, and he baptized her. At her baptism, Blessed Romana, the deaconess of the church, was her godmother. Romana, as her spiritual mother, grounded her well in the Christian Faith. But Pelagia was not satisfied with baptism alone. She was keenly aware of the multitude of her sins and, pricked by her conscience, decided on a great ascetic labor. She left her enormous, sinfully gained wealth to the poor, and secretly went to Jerusalem as the monk Pelagius. There, she shut herself up in a cell on the Mount of Olives, and began the difficult ascesis of fasting, prayer and all-night vigils.

After three years, St. Nonnus’s deacon, James, visited her and found her still alive, but when he visited her again several days later, he found that she had reposed, and he honorably buried her body. St. Pelagia entered into rest in about the year 461.

Thus, this formerly terrible sinner pleased God by her repentance and labor, was forgiven of her sins, and became sanctified. And her purified and enlightened soul was deemed worthy of the Kingdom of God.

The Venerable Thais

Thais was a repentant sinner. She was an Egyptian by birth. Like St. Pelagia, Thais also spent her youth in unrestrained fornication. Thais was directed in this evil way of life by her shameless mother. But the merciful God, Who does not desire the death of a sinner, but salvation, found a way in His wondrous providence to save the sinner Thais.

One of the disciples of St. Anthony the Great, Paphnutius the Sindonite, heard of Thais’s sinful life, and the spiritual poison with which she was poisoning the souls of many men. He decided to save her, with God’s help. Clothed in secular clothing, St. Paphnutius took one gold coin and went to the city. He found Thais and gave her the gold coin. Thais, thinking that this man gave her the gold coin for an impure act, took Paphnutius into her room. Then Paphnutius opened his blessed mouth and denounced Thais’s sins and called her to repentance.

Thais’s soul and conscience were both awakened, and she burst into tears of profound, sincere repentance. Distributing all her goods to the poor, she entered a convent at the instruction of St. Paphnutius, and remained there for about three years, closed off in a cell, living only on bread and water. St. Paphnutius visited her before her death, and brought her out of her cell against her will. She soon fell ill, and after a brief illness gave up her purified and sanctified soul to God. St. Paul the Simple, another disciple of St. Anthony, saw in a vision a most beautiful habitation in Paradise, prepared by God for St. Thais the penitent. This holy soul entered into rest in the year 340.

***

REFLECTION

Oh, if only we would invest as much effort in our souls as we invest in our bodies!

Oh, if only we could become as desirous of adorning ourselves with virtue before God and His glorious angels, as we do with the vain, transitory, external displays of appearances!

At first, both Pelagia and Thais were only aware of theier bodies, while their souls were slaves bound in the prison of the body. Both were adorned with nothing but vanity: clothed in vanity, arrayed with vanity, surrounded by vanity, and flattered by vanity.

But what a sudden change! What a divine turn of events in their lives! More wondrous than if a wild apple were to be grafted and begin to bring forth sweet fruits; or if a turgid, fetid swamp were suddenly to become clear, pure potable water.

When Bishop Nonnus, in the company of other bishops, first saw the sinner Pelagia in her outward splendor-clothed in the most expensive garments, adorned and bedecked with rings, necklaces and baubles, perfumed, and surrounded by slaves-Bishop Nonnus began to weep, and said to his companions:

” In truth, I have learned much from this woman. The Lord will set her before His Dread Judgment and will rebuke us through her. How many hours does this woman spend in her room bathing herself, clothing herself, adorning herself, and looking at herself in the mirror-and for what? Only to appear more beautiful to men. And we, who have the immortal Bridegroom in heaven, do not strive to adorn our souls with repentance; we do not hasten to bathe them with the tears of repentance and clothe them in the beauty of the virtues, that they might appear more beautiful before the eyes of God!”

Source: The Prologue from Ohrid – October 8

Yesterday  , on  September 6 2009, we are marking the 124th anniversary of the unification of  our country Bulgaria. All official celebrations were canceled after the Ohrid lake tragedy – a day earlier 15 Bulgarian tourists drowned in the Lake of  Ohrid in Macedonia The Bulgarians aboard the ship called Ilinden were on their way to the Saint Naum monastery.  The ship sank rapidly in just seven meters  of water, about 300 meters  from the shore in the worst boat accident ever to happen on Ohrid Lake. All passengers on Ilinden were Bulgarians, 40 survived the accident.  September 7 was declared a day of national mourning in honor of all the people who died on Saturday

I am disturbed from the words of a Bulgarian bishop who claims God’s wrath over Madonna concert caused Ohrid Tragedy ! The Plovdiv Metropolitan, Nikolay told the medias that God had punished Bulgarians over partying too much on August 29 (the day of the concert of Madonna in Bulgaria ) instead of mourning for Saint John the Baptist.  Totally nonsense..I am just speechless , he should be ashmed of his words !
Anyway , let the people Rest in Peace ! I feel sorry for them and their families.

Sustainche™ mourns the victims of the Ilinden tragedy on Lake Ohrid  

Sustainche has heard inspiring rumours from Ohrid that some smart local politician promotes the idea of ‘Banja Kosel’. Honestly, Sustainche is quite happy that some politician in ‘Golden Macedonia’ woke up … However, and like always, the vision of Banja Kosel is not at all originating from a politician’s brain, but was discussed among the Sustains™ a long time ago. Sustainche has clear evidence that M-Sustain™ wrote a motivation document for the preparation of a Feasibility Study as early as November 2002 …

Well, never mind, Sustainche is at least happy that there is some movement in professionally utilizing the geothermal energy potential of Macedonia in particular for wellness tourism and including the country’s nature and culture heritage.

‘Zivej’ Sustainche was always wondering why state-owned spas/banjas in Macedonia were privatized after independence of Macedonia in 1991 and who earned a fortune of this exercise of ‘real existing market economy’. The fact is that Sustain™ Sustainche never found any place called ‘Spa/Banja’ and felt well. Of course, Skopje beauty studios in the meantime offer various ‘wellness services’, but the tragedy is that international tourists like Sustainche would simply laugh on what is offered to them. There is no feeling for culture, architecture, service, smell, light, colour and music … and not going as far as Feng Shui … AT ALL that Sustainche can accept. And, this is although the Romans and Turks invented the spa and banja culture and there is very little left to invent new …

Sustainche knows the famous map of the ‘Location of the eight Main Geothermal Fields in Macedonia’. However, Sustainche also studied M-Sustain’s™ document that there is an additional potential to utilize the hot water underneath the feet of the citizens of Kosel. Kosel is a small village on the road between Ohrid and Resen, and most travellers will recognize the place of the so-called ‘Duvalo’ just because of the sulphuric smell. So, why not utilizing what the Romans already discovered ?! In 1923 sulfatara ‘Duvalo’ was first described scientifically, and geological borehole inspections during the 1970ies found warm water to originate from a depth of only 500 m below the surface there having a temperature of around 90°C. Using 21^st century technology this sounds like paradise !

By also taking into consideration the overall geotectonical set-up of the Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa Region, Sustainche thinks that this information justifies a Feasibility Study which shall assess the technical, economical, environmental and social feasibility of ‘Banja Kosel’.

Sustainche has a vision !
Sustainche wants to see geothermal energy production that provides district heating during the cold winter from Kosel down to Ohrid town.
Sustainche wants to see electricity production from renewable geothermal energy that will never stop its natural supply.
Sustainche wants to see greenhouses being warmed by renewable geothermal energy to produce tasty, healthy, safe and fair vegetables and fruits.
Sustainche wants to see foreign tourists enjoying Banja Kosel and its geothermal water for recreation and wellness after inspired days of walking in Galicica Mountain and enjoying the cultural richness of the ‘Slavic Jerusalem’.
Sustainche wants to give Lake Ohrid and Lake Prespa Region a different direction for tourism; away from short season mass beach tourism in Ohrid, towards Wellness and Spiritual Tourism, which includes Rural Sustainable Tourism and Slow Food™ initiatives that have just started to materialize.

Sustainche wants to enjoy among his Sustains™ family … relaxing in hot sulphuric water which makes his skin soft and nice, receiving massage with locally produced rose oil, sweating a bit in the sauna, resting and sleeping, and taking pleasure in Slow Food™ candle light dinners

Well, if some Skopje ‘Kafana experts’ after their ‘hard and exhausting’ conferences and workshop weekends would also like to enjoy, they are welcome … – no problem for Sustain™ Sustainche if they leave some Government or foreign donors’ moneyski in the region … as long as these people are not drunken and not too loud …

Sustainche knows from his early days and enjoying together with his mum that Polar Bears are not territorial and rather live solitary lives. From time to time some friends passed by from nowhere in the vast Polar Region, but after playing around a bit soon every Polar Bear took his and her own way. In striking contrast to Polar Bears behaviours humans do like territories – with clear borders, a nice national flag and pathetic anthem – and are supposed to be social mammals. Strange enough, Sustainche enjoys being social as well. He likes to help without preconditions, discuss amongst his Sustains™ family, enjoys good meals, and listen to music, joke, travel and … ‘zivej’ together.

Sometimes, however, Sustainche is not sure whether the social behaviour he sees among humans in general is real or pretended only. Having in mind the story on water resources and hearing the word ‘help’ expressed by some foreign Public Investment Bankers, Sustainche became a bit suspicious about the real meaning of human beings’ intention to ‘help’. “Since human mammals for sure are territorial, their offered help and aid might have the only purpose to increase their territory and influence”, Sustainche assumes.

Sustainche has read that there was a period during the 1960ies and the 1970ies when developing aid was somehow understand in a different manner than today. The basic idea of this time was: ‘We empower people to help themselves’ or the picture was used ‘We do not provide fish, but we rather teach you how to fish’. Two famous German Ministers for Economic Cooperation & Development were the protagonists for such an approach. Today it seems that the first part of the Ministry’s name became more important, and this is although some ‘old fashioned’ consultants who started their careers during the 1970ies persist in ‘teaching how to fish’.

Beyond these ‘exotic people’ the consulting world in general changed at lot. Sustainche followed only a few international projects in full details during his time in Macedonia, but the overall trend is always the same: If there is a pure consultancy contract and the moneyski, let’s say 2 Million Euro, is granted by a foreign Government, you can be sure that it is envisaged that between 80-90% of this money for free will be returned to consulting companies of the foreign Government’s country. In fact, this is a nice way of making favourable propaganda on TV for a foreign country, saying: ‘Look, we help you and we are your friends’, but the truth is that such kinds of projects are mainly done to boost the foreign country’s consulting business and gain influence. Sustainche has heard rumours that some politicians during the late days of their career or being pensioners finally become consultants … and bring the money that they decided about before as politician into their private pocket. 

The game with investment projects is even worse as outlined for the water sector before. Foreign tax payers would be surprised if they would know in full details how their money is utilized and moved around. Sustainche has heard a really funny story when exactly the same investment object was donated twice, by two different donors. There was – of course – no problem to show both donors what they’ve financed …

It is clear for Sustainche that all this can not operate without support from the country where donations arrive. It would be a pleasure for Polar Bear Sustainche to investigate who was receiving how much during the past 18 years in Macedonia, and he wouldn’t be surprised to find names of high rank politicians and project administrators having Switzerland based anonymous bank accounts. But it is also not to forget some rather ‘small fish’ VIPs working in various kinds of Government ‘institucija’ who enjoy some ‘additional’ income. In order to change this unsocial and unacceptable behaviour, Sustainche has learnt something very interesting from Frederick II King of Prussia – called the ‘Old Fritz’: How to establish an efficient bureaucracy ! The Old Fritz gave his civil servants nice privileges but at the same time he heavily punished them if they misused or could not fulfil their position. This system worked until some democratically elected someone forgot the punishment … . 

So far, so bad ! Having this type of ‘Developing Aid’ money making machine established there is no interest from neither side to change anything. International consultants write reports that nobody reads and national experts usually pretend to do something … supported by their ‘Kafana Red Indians’.

You may ask what all this has to do with Developing Aid and in particular with Sustainable Development … ? Sustainche is persuaded: ABSOLUTELY NOTHING !

Concluded

At this point and following the overall strategy, everything could have been finalised very quickly. Squeezed like a lemon (some people may also say ‘addicted like a heroin junkie’) because the merged public utility company can not pay the interest rates of the loan, the foreign Public Investment Bank – ‘unfortunately’ – needs to think and find a foreign private investor … something like a private utility company with a long track record of service provision. This is indeed very interesting: First of all of foreign tax payers through the foreign Public Investment Bank ‘invest’ in the maintenance and upgrading of the public water supply and waste water system of two Municipalities in Macedonia, and than – all of sudden – this very nice investment is handed over to a private utility company (of course originating from the same country like the Public Investment Bank) … let’s say for a symbolic value of ‘One’ Euro … just to run the bankrupt public utility company properly in the future … and now to organize a real moneyski making machine …

So far, so good ! Sustainche completely understands the entire game. Phase No. One, tax payers’ money (donation) is taken to gain some kind on control. Phase No. Two, additional tax payers’ (loan) is provided to increase control and find the right moment to declare bankruptcy. Phase No. Three and finally – and because of some very strange collaboration between the foreign Public Investment Bank and a private utility company –, the said private utility company takes over everything and starts increasing the water fees for Ohrid and Struga citizens in order to cover the running costs … and, yes, make real market economy business … .

You might think that something similar can also happen in the electricity sector … ? Well, Sustainche would think so … . Sustainche is at least sure that he became witness of something that can only be called ‘organized crime in the water sector’. The same strategy as outlined above is used around the world; you can have a look to Bolivia, Azerbaijan, the Philippines, or … .

However, Sustainche is happy that for the first time he can announce really good news from Macedonia: The public utility enterprise of Ohrid and Struga until today is still a public utility enterprise ! “Something must have gone extremely wrong there”, … Sustainche can not stop smiling …

Sustainche found a jolly good newspaper article dated from 2001, which in detail describes on how to earn the license to print moneyski with water. Sustainche is not sure whether this publication was the offspring of a misunderstood public awareness campaign or simply the result of stupidity. Never mind, Sustainche in his specific manner would like to share what he has learnt.

The whole story plays in Macedonia, specifically in Ohrid/Struga region but it could happen anywhere on this Planet Earth. We need to being acquainted with that there are different types of ‘developed’ countries on Planet Earth that act in different manners to ‘help’ less developed countries – like for example Macedonia: There are countries that are a bit old fashioned; they concentrate on protecting their ‘natural right’ to have access to natural petroleum resources. Other countries believe that ‘nuclear power’ is the business future, which in fact is a bit difficult to understand after the Chernobyl event in the Ukraine as of 1986. Last but not least the smartest country simply wants to have their hands on water resources on a worldwide scale.

Referring to the last business model, it happened that experts of the foreign Public Investment Bank of the said country … Sustainche now forgot the name of the country … arrived in Ohrid and Struga and told the Municipality authorities: ‘We will help you !’ ‘Very nice’, was the immediate response. First of all it was discovered that the three existing companies operating in the water sector on behalf of both Municipality should be merged. It was the time of the ‘merging movie’ inspired by the World Bank’s philosophy; efficiency is most important in market economy and, thus, everything and anything except Santa Claus must be merged. There are various consulting companies that during this period earned a fortune in organizing merging processes. The same companies now make a fortune again with separating merged giants; we might have in mind General Motors, the once largest automobile company in the world, which just recently declared bankruptcy.

Never mind, in this particular case of Lake Ohrid region merging technically and operationally could have made sense. The foreign Public Investment Bank had one more striking good argument: ‘WE will provide a donation in order to invest in the Municipalities’ water supply and waste water system. Money for free !’ Hmmm … this sentence – of course – was a bit exaggerated. The foreign Public Investment Bank did not take THEIR own moneyski, but money that tax payers worked for. In any case, the envisaged grant was given. The foreign Public Investment Bank ‘even’ organized and paid a project named ‘Accompanying Measures’ to facilitate institutional strengthening and capacity building for the newly merged public utility service company. The truth behind this exercise was indeed not to strengthen anything, but just to have a constant inside view on how the company is financially performing. Just to cover the real intention, the foreign Public Investment Bank started to discuss about loans provided together with another European Public Investment Bank. “Well, loans … I’m only a small Polar Bear, but at this point I would become really suspicious”, Sustainche interferes. Very much correct: As soon as a Public Investment Bank tries ‘to sell’ loans, everybody should hear the ‘Master Alarm’ bells. 

To be concluded

Sustainche has the feeling that Lake Ohrid is one of the safest places to be in Europe when it would finally come to a ‘water shortage crisis’. Unfortunately there are no seals to hunt in the lake … otherwise that would be a perfect surrounding environment for him. Ok, during the summer time there are also too many tourists. But this might change sooner than some people are able to imagine … when more and more tourists rather prefer enjoying the Grcka/Greek beaches … .

Sustainche remembers that the first time he arrived in Ohrid during the hot summer there was no water coming from the tap in his accommodation. What a surprise: You have the oldest and deepest lake in Europe with an estimated 55.4 km³ of quality drinking water in front of your window but no water in your home ! It was argued by the local public enterprise authorities responsible for the water supply of Ohrid households that at the moment there are simply too many people in town and, yet, too many consumers on one place and on one time. It is also understandable for Sustainche that if too many people open a tap at once, the water pressure is reduced in the water pipes and at some stage there is ‘nema vodo’ … no water

However, what is not so clear is why at such a crisis situation there is no water additionally supplied from the lake ? The technical equipment with huge pumps was already installed during President Tito’s time. The simple reason for human mammals is – moneyski ! Pumps need electricity and electricity is expensive. So, why to spend additional money that is not covered by the normal water bill … and just to make tourists happy and allow them having a shower … ? Sustainche has found out that for example on Spanish Majorca Island tourists are obligated to pay what is called ‘eco tax’ for their safe water supply. Since on Majorca there are regular water crisis every summer and precious drinking water is transported to the island by huge ships from the Ebro River delta, an ‘eco tax’ is more than justified. “Ok, Majorcan authorities’ way of thinking perhaps is a bit more advanced”, Sustainche assumes.

Sustainche wants to consider something else. He knows that there are quite a number of citizens and businessmeni in Ohrid who don’t pay their water bills. The general perception of these people is: ‘We have a lake full of water that belongs to the State. I’m a member of the State. Ergo, the water of Lake Ohrid is also mine and for free.’ “This is a fascinating explanation”, Sustainche nods. Small Polar Bear Sustainche can take a walk to the lake and – provided that the location is clean – he drinks there whenever he wishes so. Citizens might also go and take a canister full of Lake Ohrid water home. However, as soon as there is quality drinking water arriving directly at your tap at home, this can not be for free. A water supply system needs to be build and maintained and there are people in the public enterprise who exactly do this job. And, we can’t ignore that if there is drinking water provided in households, the public enterprise also needs to take care for the waste water; sewerage system and waste water treatment. Otherwise, Lake Ohrid’s excellent water resources will be polluted soon. We see: If human mammals would like to enjoy all these conveniences they need to pay for the services.

Sustainche is convinced that a ‘Public Enterprise’ supervised by a democratically elected city council is a very good organizational form to manage water supply and waste water treatment for the benefit of all citizens. Sustain™ Sustainche has the clear opinion that water is a too much basic for life and precious to privatize such a natural resource. However, Sustainche heard that the World Bank is in favour of privatization of water supply and waste water treatment – in fact all around the world. Ok, while reviewing the World Bank’s role in terms of promoting privatization after the Republic of Macedonia’s independence Sustainche already found other ‘mistakes’ done by these highly paid experts. But this is another story … . 

Sustainche is indeed the sweetest Polar Bear the World has ever seen ! 

Sustainche enjoys writing some contributions to support the World Water Week, 16-22 August 2009. Sustainche knows that ‘Water is Life’ ! Ok, provided that there is not too much water ! Most people are not aware that his home Sea Ice Polar Ocean is quite rich in sweet water; nothing to compare with the salty water of the Mediterranean Sea. Sustainche would like to refer to the map on Thermohaline Circulation in his post on Climate Change (IV). Thus, there was always water to drink for little Polar Bear Sustainche and his mum … besides when fresh snow flakes were falling from the sky …

However, Sustainche has learnt with his Geography and Sustainable Development studies that not all people on Planet Earth are that lucky. Whether it is due to the harsh natural surrounding environment, climate change or inappropriate water management, almost one billion people around the world can not enjoy clean drinking water or even lack access to water at all. This is a really dramatic situation !

When Sustainche had a look on the Climate Map of Macedonia he realized that there is one rather dry region – Geographers call it to be ‘semi-arid’ – which receives not more than 400 mm of rainfall per year: The region of Veles – also known as Tito Veles – and Stip in Central Macedonia. Interesting enough 400 mm annual rainfall is exactly the precipitation that is also recorded in the western part of Etosha National Park in northern Namibia and in transition towards the Namib Desert. What people can do there with 400 mm average annual rainfall, great variability, high evapotranspiration and shallow soils is very limited; they can only raise cattle or – to be on the safe side – goats. In sharp contrast to the situation in Namibia Veles-Stip region appears to be a quite rich for agriculture production in Macedonia. The secret behind this – we might expect already – is water and the soils. Since Yugoslavian times a well established and organized irrigation systems helps to grow wheat, sun flowers and various kinds of vegetables. In Kocani region the famous ‘Kocani Rice’ can only grow due to irrigation.

Sustainche is very much aware of the fact that irrigation systems in many parts of the world were the basis for society development as a whole, for example in the Nile Valley and in Mesopotamia. Precondition of any irrigation management is to working together. Operating irrigation systems demands a high degree of self-organization and it is essential that the rule of law needs to be respected. When Sustainche travelled to Kocani a few months ago he saw many irrigation channels not being maintained and he heard that there are constant disputes of how much water is going where. In Veles Basin and Ovce Pole Sustainche during the summer time is always surprised to see operating irrigation systems during the peak of the hot day time. Taking into account the tremendous evapotranspiration there is a high risk for both, soils and vegetation to become harmed by accumulation of salts in the topsoil. “Hmmm … from my humble understanding it doesn’t appear to me that today’s irrigation system here is well-organized at all”, Sustainche concludes.

Today, Sustainche had no water for drinking, cooking, cleaning … and, yes … for having a shower. “Ok, this can happen in Africa”, Sustainche assumes. Although … Sustainche wonders why on the one hand precious ground water is wasted during inappropriate day-time irrigation and due to bad irrigation system management, and on the other hand there is no water supplied to the households and the tap. Is there a problem with the groundwater resources ? Is this already due to climate change ? Well, it might be also a problem of human mammals’ water resources management … ? The hills around his home over centuries appear to be deforested by humans and because of this the soil cover is eroded. Sustainche is not sure how to explain what he sees and experiences. He needs some more research … and a shower … hopefully tomorrow … .

Sustainche has the impression that he starts smelling a bit …

Cat, living it up in Evropa.

My older sister Catherine flew back from Macedonia Wednesday night with a newly pierced bellybutton and some Ohridian souvenirs, which I have yet to see.

I’ll visit her tonight to hear all about her month-long Balkan adventure. Maybe she’ll share a few photos of her trip that I can post here. Ohrid is so beautiful, with an ancient lake and more than 360 ancient Byzantine churches. There’s a castle in the middle of Ohrid, the town my family and I used to call home.

When I was there, I totally took for granted that I lived in one of the most fascinating parts of the world. To me then, it was just my backyard. Maybe when Catherine goes next time, I can tag along.

update

OK, so Cat got to posting some photos of her voyage. Here’s a sampling:

boat ramp, near downtown/photo by catherine

taxi boats on ohridsko ezero/photo by catherine

lake ohrid lakeshore/photo by catherine

Amfiteatr, Ochryd, Macedonia

Amphitheater, Ohrid, Macedonia

Sustainche posted already and it is confirmed by his big red heart that he enjoys Ohrid … and this – of course – includes the surrounding environment and The Lake. And although Sustainche is a Polar Bear and, yet, likes to swim he is not all in the mood to swimming and enjoying with mass tourism human mammals around him. Naturally, Polar Bears enjoy bathing alone in the wide and open Polar Ocean …

Sustainche can not ignore his roots and therefore he is not travelling to Ohrid during the peak of the summer season beach tourism. Polar Bear Sustainche arrives in Ohrid when Skopjeans are back in their homes in the capital, ‘work’ – as they try to explain what they do – and hunt for moneyski. When Sustainche saw Ohrid last year in late August he was happily surprised that compared to the years before Ohrid beaches were much more organized. Licenses were given to some people to clean some places from the solid waste that was always lying about, and some businessmeni really invested in infrastructure and services to make their beach guests enjoy the lake.

Nobody knows exactly how and why these ‘beach operating licenses’ were given to some and not to others. However, this is normal in ‘Golden Macedonia’. Sustainche has learnt that there is an ongoing dispute between the Municipality of Ohrid and the central Government in Skopje about who is responsible and should have monetary benefit from the beaches. “Well, from a Sustainable Development perspective it is first of all clear that those who have benefits should also have responsibilities and vice versa”, Sustainche expresses his opinion. “And – and this is very much in line with the EU decentralization policy – Municipalities need to be in charge of their local affairs. This for sure includes what is going on on the Municipality’s beaches”, Sustainche concludes.

Well, until today things are not this easy ‘Golden Macedonia’. There is still a long way to walk. Sustainche at this moment can not help solving this rather political dispute. However, and since Sustainche is very practical, he – as a normal tourist – only wants to know who gave permission to operate an organized fancy beach platform on a waste water treatment plant ? Namely, Sustainche with his still basic Geography studies knowledge found out that there is one organized beach on the eastern side of Lake Ohrid and quite favourably near to the city that has been established in the former reed grass zone. The reed grass was simply cut. We need to know that reed grass zones of Lake Ohrid in a legal way should be environmentally protected. But others might say: ‘Come on now ! Why to protect some reed grass biotope ? It’s time to earn money !’ This might be true. However, it is also the truth that Lake Ohrid’s reed grass zone functions as a natural waste water treatment plant; all around the world every kind of waste water and lake water is filtered and purified in a reed grass zone. Having this in mind, some smart Engineers utilize this free of charge technology of Mother Nature to have constructed wetlands with reed grass in those rural regions, which can not be connected to the public sewage system and finally to a waste water treatment plant.

Sustainche enjoys having a swim in the oldest lake in Europe, but honestly speaking on this specific place he feels not very pleasant. When Sustainche on one day saw the mud of the reed grass zone being suspended by the lake’s waves, he felt immediately dirty. “No, no, no … Polar Bear Sustainche is not going to take a bath in some muddy water … !” He is too much scared about all the bacteria, viruses (in the meantime he found out what kind of creatures these are … ), artificial organic products and heavy metals and what ever he can imagine being accumulated in the mud – naturally as well as due to human mammals activity over thousands of years … the later mainly referring to some rather recent inflows of pesticides from farmland and industrial production waste.

Sustainche wonders who is responsible for this kind of beach mess … ?
… and who is taking samples and care for the hygienic conditions … ?
… for the safety in particular of kids who today are well-known to be most vulnerable towards any kind of allergy … ?