The smallest of all the Andean countries, Ecuador boasts historical, cultural and natural wonders more befitting an entire continent. Straddling not only two hemispheres but also two worlds – the ancient and the modern – this tiny republic with its remnants of past civilizations and Spanish conquests offers the discerning traveler a striking fusion of landscapes, peoples and cultures. From ancient markets of the indigenous peoples, Amazon tributaries, Inca ruins, Andean peaks, 16th century churches, and the wildlife-rich Galapagos Islands, Ecuador boasts a bewildering diversity that belies its diminutive size.  Contact us for small cruises to Galapagos or for our 8 day adventure trip that will include Quito, Otavalo, Cuenca and more.

I’m about to implement a serious revamp of www.tanagerphotography.com, which will include my 2010 wedding and portrait packages, as well as an overhaul of the galleries section by splitting weddings from portraits. While I was at it, I decided to take another look at the travel galleries, which got me thinking about whether I should include Ecuador in my portfolio, which got me thinking that Ecuador isn’t anywhere on the blog, which got me thinking how much I want to go somewhere pretty much at any moment now, which made me realize I’m not going anywhere for a while … what with the baby and all.

Just because I’m not traveling doesn’t mean I can’t spice up the blog with photos of faraway places here and there. Ecuador has been on my mind lately because of the birds and monkeys. Impending fatherhood naturally lends itself to daydreams of future adventures with the kid, and tops on that list is looking for animals in a rainforest, be it Costa Rica, Panama, Peru or some Caribbean Island.

We visited this magnificent country in April and May of 2007, visiting the Napo Wildlife Center in the Amazon, the capitol city of Quito, the Otavalo Indian Market, the rainforests of Mindo and the hot springs of Papallacta. Conspicuously absent from that list are the Galapagos Islands. Too much time, too much money, and being the mountain boy that I am, I’m always going to pass over islands to insist we see something like the Andes.

My lasting memory of Ecuador was a place of insane topography. Ravines inside canyons wedged between mountains with volcanoes on top. Quito’s size and scope was unfathomable because of the way the land buckles and swallows the city. It is amazing place to see from a window seat on arrival.

But right now, I’d bypass the Andes, the volcanoes sitting on top of them, and pretty much anything to do with that dusty wrinkled city, for a little hut in the rainforest and the sound of howler monkeys and parrots piercing the air.

NPR’s Morning Edition ran a great story on a Brazilian farm town’s efforts to restore the Amazonian rainforest and balance nature with farming. The soundtrack alone transported me back to Ecuador this morning. Soon enough, we’ll get back out there …

Image by India Brantley, Polaroid dye transfer taken in Otavalo, Ecuador

India has always been an amateur photographer, but now she is approaching professional status. Her photograph shown here was chosen to be the cover photo for Lovett admissions materials.

The picture was taken in black and white while she was in Ecuador. Using some sort of special coloration technique that she learned in her photography class, she turned the photo from black and white to color.

I finally convinced India to  post some of her photography on Flickr. The link is India’s Third Eye.  I am sure she would appreciate a comment if you stop by.

By the way, if you are looking for a school, I recommend Lovett highly. India has been a student there since she was four years old.   Lovett’s philosophy is to educate the whole child. As you can see from India’s adventures, Lovett is  great place no matter what your child’s interest. Open house is Sunday, December 13, 2009.

Getting to Otavalo was supposed to take about two hours.. We, on the other hand, arrived after four hours and riding three different buses. But it was worth it! The market was massive and all kinds of handicrafts and arts were sold from the many small stands all over the main square. But before diving into a shopping spree, we went for some lunch. We got a tasty 3-dish meal for about 2 dollars. Gotta love this country!

just arrived the Otavalo market

Alright it was time for shopping! Marita tried all kinds of sweaters, scarfs and pants. The prices were good and everyone was open for haggling. I got myself a warm zipper hoodie made of alpakka wool and maybe the narliest bag in the whole world covered every thinkable pattern.

relaxing in the chillout lounge

the narliest bag in the world

Marita bought an alpakka jumper, a pair of pyjamas -looking pants and heaps of other nice hand made stuff from the market. Pretty happy about the outcome of the trip we headed back to Quito. This time it took us “only” three hours and twenty minutes.

one of the many narrow streets dotted with market stands

shop till you drop

On the way home we decided to go to see a highly recommended dance show – the Ballet Folclórico Nacional Permanente. It was directed by Rafael Camino and had received numerous awards. We thought we might as well make this a complete cultural day. This was something very out of the ordinary for us and my first ballet ever, so wh not make it one of the most reknown ballets in Ecuador..? 

When our bus arrived Quito, it was only 40 minutes until the show started. Somehow we managed to get back to the hostel, change clothes, eat at a Chinese restaurant and take taxi to the Jacchigua theater in time before the show started at 7.30pm. The show itself was truly out of the ordinary and involved 90 dancers and 2900 kg of indigious outfits for the different acts!  The show was put up every Wednesday and lasted for about two hours. Between each act, Rafael Camino himself entered the stage and told a story behind the act. This was probably great for the few people among the audience, in the ather small theater hall, who could make out what he said during his firestorm of Spanish words.

two ladies in indigious outfits at the entrance of the Jacchigua theater

a flower girl in the show

Rafael Camino, the man behind the Ballet Folclórico Nacional Permanente, giving his "thank you"-speech at the end of the show

All in all the show was very good and we got a pretty in-depth understanding of the Ecuadorian folk songs, traditions and outfits.

Today we went to the market in Otavalo, a couple hours north of Quito.  I went with my host mom and dad, my mum’s grandma, and Cynthia.  The city itself isn’t that pretty, but the market was pretty cool.  There was tons of handmade stuff.  I got gifts for lots of people, and probably spent too much money.  It was pretty neat though.  However, because I am too nice, it’s very hard to walk away when people are showing you their stuff and begging you to buy something.  I also probably paid a little too much for some of my stuff, because I am not very good at haggling.  But I did my best and got a few dollars knocked off.  It helps that I speak spanish and apparently look Ecuadorian.  It’s all part of the experience. 

After shopping we went to Lago San Pablo, to a hostel called Cabanas del Lago, for lunch.  I had some very tasty steak, and then a free piece of chocolate cake because the waitress threw away my leftovers instead of giving me a box.  Que triste!  Then we drove home and got stuck in traffic for three hours.  But not a bad day.

This is going to be a short post, for a change.  Just keeping people updated.

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Out of all the pictures I took in Ecuador, these charming scenes of plastic and cement are my favorite. Go figure.

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]]> http://unregardsurmaplanete.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/artisanat-andin-tour-a-otavalo/ Mon, 24 Aug 2009 20:09:48 +0000 ramblingfifou http://unregardsurmaplanete.wordpress.com/2009/08/24/artisanat-andin-tour-a-otavalo/

Samedi est le jour de grand marché à Otavalo, ville andine au nord de Quito. Tout l’artisanat de la Sierra y est réuni : étoles, pulls, panchos, bijoux, tableaux, ceintures, chapeaux…

Les gens sont accueillants, les allées entre les échoppes colorées calmes. C’est un joli marché. S’y promener est plaisant. Nous déjeunons de quelques bouchées de viande de lama cuisinée avec des pommes de terre puis de poisson frit (loin d’être de première fraîcheur) mangé avec les doigts. De vieilles femmes mendient une pomme de terre ou des arêtes de poisson pour y sucer la chair qui y reste. J’en ai le ventre serré.

Je ne suis pas dépensière, surtout dans un marché d’artisanat. Seul objet qui m’intéressait, un chapeau comme celui que portent les femmes Quichua. Je me suis finalement décidée à en acquérir un. Il n’est pas vraiment assorti à ma fidèle veste technique tout-terrain Actimium d’Aigle bleue turquoise que je porte sur nombre de mes portraits en voyage : Vénézuela, Chine, Équateur. (à croire que partout où je pars en randonnée, même sous les tropiques, il se met à faire froid, venter, pleuvoir) Qu’importe! Je l’aime bien mon nouveau chapeau, et comme il ne rentre pas dans mon sac à dos, je m’en coiffe désormais lors de tous mes trajets.

Otavalo’s Indigenous population are savvy business people and I went way over budget at the famous Saturday market. Their traditional costumes are beautiful, the people look confident and happy, the houses look prosperous, the fields abundant, and just about everyone is walking around with a cellphone. The town and countryside are lovely – even the pavement is a work of art.

Saturday night is cockfighting night in Otavalo.  Some nights the fights can draw a crowd of as many as a hundred people to the small stadium.  Before the fights begin the roosters are weighed, inspected and evaluated to determine who fights who and what the odds will be.  Then the bets are placed, usually $100.  The night we attended things got off to a late start.  Apparently, there was some difficulty matching up roosters of equal weight.  Finally, around 10:30p.m. things got underway. 

The owners of the birds can get pretty emotional during the fight and angry when their rooster doesn’t perform as well as they had hoped.  For the most part, the cockfight was similar to a boxing match. Unfortunately for the roosters, little knives are taped to their feet so that when they jump and kick they can really hurt each other.  It actually wasn’t as gruesome as you might expect since they spent most of the time just smacking each other around, but even so it still seemed pretty cruel.  We left before we had the chance to see any of the roosters get really injured, mostly they were just stunned, scraped and bruised.

The town of Otavalo is famous for it’s Saturday market, said to be the largest indigenous crafts market in all of South America.  Located two and a half hours north of Quito, it’s the place to go for all types of beautiful handicrafts many of which are hand-made by local indigenous artisans.

Indigenous otavaleños are easily identified by their traditional dress.  Men wear calf-length white pants, gray or blue ponchos and dark felt hats.  Women wear embroidered blouses, long black skirts, dark shawls, folded head cloths and multiple strand of gold beads around their necks.  Both the men and women wear rope sandals.  Many of these items are available for sale at the giant Saturday market.

The tables of gold beaded necklaces were especially popular with the local women who are always looking to add to their collections.

Popular market day fare in Otavalo is chancho, or roast pork served right off the pig.  In many cases the lack of space at the tiny food stands in the market meant dining face to face with the animal.  A bit awkward maybe, but no one really seemed to mind.