Jonathans Halloweendräkt är klar!! Tyvärr har fotomodellen hunnit somna så det blir ingen bild idag. Jag klippte ut alla delar till dräkten igår. Hade inget mönster utan körde på frihand. Idag var det så dags för själva sömnaden och den blev ganska jobbig till slut. Började med overlocksmaskinen och efter lite inställningar av trådspänning så funkade det finfint. Alla delar passade ihop så fint och det blev precis som jag hade tänkt mig. Jonathan fick prova emellanåt så att jag kunde se att det satt bra.

Sedan var det dags att ta fram den gamla hederliga (jo, pyttsan!!) gröna Husqvarnamaskinen. Fixade och trixade med trådspänning och längd och bredd på stygnen men det blev ingen snygg söm. Nu vet jag ju att det kan vara krångligt att sy med vanlig maskin i trikå men så här jobbigt brukar det inte vara. Det blev ingen jämn sicksack utan det blev blandat med raksöm emellanåt. Skitsamma tänkte jag, det syns ju inte iaf.

När linningen på byxorna var klar och gummibandet satt på plats låste sig maskinen och nån Ctrl+Alt+Del finns ju liksom inte på en symaskin. Den bara brummade när jag gasade och inget mer hände. Jag plockde fram symaskinsoljan och gav den lite smörj men det hjälpte inte. Har väl inte smort den på ett bra tag men jag vet inte om det var det som var felet. Det var bara att plocka ihop maskinen och sätta sig och börja sy för hand. Jag hade tänkt att sy en del detaljer för hand iaf men långt ifrån så mycket som det blev nu.

En ny symaskin i födelsedagspresent & julklapp skulle sitta fint!

I morgon ska den lille fladdermusen följa med mig till jobbet. Efter lunch ska han gå runt med en godiskorg och erbjuda “Bus eller godis?!” Den som inte tar något godis får bus…

Ha det gott!
Kram Ann

Mine første prosjekter på overlockmaskinen ble disse tre fleecekjolene/-tunikaene. Det finnes en fjerde også, men den er med Jenny i barnehagen i skrivende (og fotograferende) stund. Friske farger, fine applikasjoner, store og gode hetter og ponponger til pynt i kanten nederst. Disse skulle ha vært str. 2 år, men er store i størrelsene og passer jenter på  hhv 4 og 5/6 år.

Selges kr. 175,- pr. stk.

Omsider var overlockmaskinen her, etter laaaang ventetid. Det ble modellen over den jeg i utgangspunktet hadde bestilt, pga. de ekstra mulighetene toppmodellen gir mhp coversømmer. Modellen heter Huskylock 936 og er altså en såkalt kombimaskin som syr både cover- og overlocksømmer. Når sant skal sies så er det såpass tungvint å “bygge om” maskinen til coverlock at jeg sannsynligvis har gjort det for første og siste gang, men det er jo kjekt å vite at man har muligheten… Maskinen går forøvrig som en klokke og det er fantastisk behagelig med en maskin som både syr raskt, pent og stille!

Es ist soweit…

… ich denke darüber nach mir eine Overlock – Nähmaschine zu kaufen, da sich einem so einfach mehr Möglichkeiten bieten, gerade im Bezug auf Kleidung und Jersey. Nun stehe ich vor dem Dschungel an Angeboten und Marken und bin sehr ratlos.

Kann mir jemand von euch fleissigen Näherinnen da draussen vielleicht eine/seine Maschine empfehlen oder mir sagen worauf ich beim Kauf achten muss?! Ich wäre euch wirklich sehr dankbar, da ich einen Fehlkauf vermeiden möchte und mit dem neuen Schätzchen viel vor habe.  ;)

Dankeschön im vorraus!!!

PS: kennt einer diese Maschine  Pfaff hobbylock 4764 ?

É sabido que o Kone sofreu um acidente de moto com o Rodrigo. Apesar de ele dizer que está tudo bem, a situação é muito mais preocupante do que aparenta. Como ele está entre a vida e morte, nada mais justo do que prestar uma homenagem a esse cara que trouxe muita alegria pro Teletube.

Pra quem não o conhecia, vou mostrar algumas fotos retiradas do seu arquivo pessoal, onde o próprio Kone é flagrado em atividades cotidianas: almoço, estudos, futebol. E o que é mais chocante: temos a última foto antes do acidente e de como ele ficou depois do ocorrido. Se tiverem estômago, desçam a barra de rolagem e vejam com seus próprios olhos.

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Foto do pescoço do Kone, quebrado depois do acidente de moto (IMAGEM CHOCANTE):

A última foto antes do acidente:

REVELAÇÃO: KONE ERA UMA PESSOAL NORMAL, UM CARA BEM FAMÍLIA…

ALMOÇANDO EM CASA

ESTUDANDO PARA A PROVA NA FACULDADE

MARCANDO UM GOL NO RODRIGO

FICA NA BOA, AMIGÃO. SE VOCÊ NOS DEIXAR, SAIBA QUE NÓS DO TELETUBE O LEVAREMOS EM NOSSOS CORAÇÕES.

S2

Todo mundo seguindo o Kone no Twitter e mandando a mensagem “++++~~~~~POSITIVE VIBS ~~~~~++++, amigo Kone http://bit.ly/vNMos“

Vai ajudar muito na recuperação do nosso amigo. O link que eu coloquei é pra essa matéria sensacionalista.

E, ah, me sigam no Twitter porque eu descobri o caminho das pedras.

I går var vi altså i Trondheim, og på Stoff og Stil Jeg koste meg, og mannfolka sov i bilen. Grei fordeling

Uansett; jeg kjøpte meg ribb, stretch chenille og isoli i forskjellige farger, pluss litt elefantstoff!

Så langt har jeg laget en (litt stor) joggedress til Ole Jakob i chenille Mønsteret er også fra Stoff og Stil

(klumpen var trøtt og ville IKKE leke modell)

(SÅ sur mamma!)

Edit:

Skikkelige bilder. (Elefanten mangler et øye)

I morgen skal vi til Trondheim, da skal jeg kjøpe noe jeg sy klær av! I dag har jeg sydd en ny bleie, bare for å teste (den var tredd når jeg fikk den, så jeg slapp litt billig unna der

Stoff fra Lykkedragen.no og stoff og stil, mønsteret er fremdeles Ottobre (bare litt omgjort). Laget den litt større nå, så passer den i hvert fall! Bak er det en lomme til ekstra innlegg

(den er ikke helt så skeiv som det ser ut som altså!)

So. Ich bin glücklich, denn das Geburtstagsmaschinchen ist da und arbeitet ohne zu mucken. Toll. Ich bin so glücklich .

Als es klingelte, war ich ohnehin gerade dabei, den grünen Baumwollsatin, den ich neulich gekauft hatte, in ein Neckholderkleid nach Simplicity 7179 (3571 amer.) zu verwandeln, weil ich den Schnitt so gerne mag. Das ist nun mittlerweile das dritte Mal, dass ich diesen Schnitt verwende. Die Änderungen, die ich daran vornehmen muss, sind mittlerweile erprobt und getestet: 10 cm länger, Abnäher statt des Gekräusels unter der Brust, Rockweite verringert, kein RV (einer der wenigen Vorteile meiner verbogenen Figur: man kann Kleiderreißverschlüsse einsparen, wenn man möchte ).
Da ich ja sowieso schon an diesem Kleid saß, konnte ich die Overlock, nachdem ich die Maschine eingefädelt hatte und ein bisschen “probegefahren” war, für die Nahtversäuberung verwenden. Ich finde, es sieht schon sehr gut aus und geht erheblich schneller als die Versäuberung nur mit Hilfe der NäMa.
Das Kleid habe ich dank der Ovi ca. in der Hälfte der Zeit fertiggestellt, das Enzige, was noch aussteht, ist das Vernähen der Ovi-Fädchen. Soviel Arbeit, seufz .

Schön, was?

Bilder von Kleid gibt es demnächst, Püppi hat gerade zu tun.

P. S.: Himmel, ich hab eine Grinsesmiley-Macke.

So, I am very happy. The birthday serger arrived today and it works perfectly well. That is so cool, and I am so happy (did I mention that before?). When the door bell rang I was about to make a dress (Simplicity 3541, halter neck variation). This is my third time using this pattern. The fabric I chose was green cotton satin I purchased some days ago. The good thing about doing it for the third time is that I know the necessary alterations by heart: 10 cm longer, darts instead of gathering unter the bust, narrowing the skirt, no zipper (one of the few advantages of having a crooked body ).
When I was ready with threading the serger and trying a little bit I used it for neatening the side seams. I love how it looks … and I love the machine and this method is waaaay quicker than making the seams look okay using scissors and the sewing machine. The dress took about half the time it normally takes and the only thing I still have to do is to sew in the serger threads. Loads of work .
I’ll will shoot some photos of the dress later because little Ms Dressform is occupied at the moment.

P. S. Today I’m seriously addicted to grinning emoticons.

P. P. S.:

Snart kommer min splitter helt nye fine overlockmaskin!

(bildet er lånt fra sysiden.no, hvor jeg har bestilt maskinen)
Sammen med en megabestilling fra stoff og stil kommer jeg ikke til å måtte kjøpe barneklær på mange år (kommer vel før eller senere  til et punkt hvor det ikke er så kult å gå i mammas skjeve sømmer mer?)

I think I have enough thread here now to cover the length of Sweden from North to South and back. I am only keeping about a sixth of it though which is probably enough to cover the needs over the summer.I am keeping all the thread that passed the fire test because they are made of natural fibre (cotton). The rest are going to be put up for auctions. The ones on the table in the next photograph are already being auctioned out on Tradera (www.tradera.com Swedish auctionsite that is similar to Ebay). When I went through all the thread yesterday I found some very interesting cottons that are probably antique by now. They are of different brands, all on wood, and very well crafted. I don’t know if I will use this thread or if I will start collecting them. This is only some of them..It is amazing how strong they are still. I am going to create a new category called thread since there is so much on thread.

Since I wrote about threads the other day and how important it is that they are made of natural fibre I have thought a lot about the subject. I did some internet research on the matter and found out that it is very uncommon to use cotton in an overlock machine. They are considered too expensive, too thick and too strong. I found some thread in a charity shop last week that passed the fire test and must therefor be natural. They are different kinds, some very thing – two or three times as thick as a normal thread for a houshold machine and it was not the easiest job to change treads tonight as the usual trick to cut off the old thread, tie the new to it and just pull it through didn’t work all the way. But when the job was finished I was pleased with the result. I am not going to give up on the natural thread.

This is the project that really kicked off my passion for sewing!  Previously, I’d made the odd dressing gown or pair of shorts (not particularly successfully) but had never felt really inspired.  Then, last year, I realised that Chloe was going to need a dress for her “End of Primary School Prom”.  I really didn’t want to pay silly money for a dress she’d only wear once but I did really want her to have something nice to wear.

So – I enrolled myself on an evening class and set to work!  It took me months to make and was literally putting the finishing touches to it the night before but I was quite happy with the result.

Chloe chose both the fabric and the pattern (with a little steering from mum – tried to keep her away from the really complicated patterns) and was really happy with the result too.

We used McCall’s M4765, which is actually a skirt and a choice of two tops – Chloe chose the version with cap sleeves.  She chose a lovely lilac coloured polyester satin, which went beautifully with her fair colouring.  To add a little detail to the top I layered some lilac coloured sequinned netting over the front and back centre panels.  I had a enough left over to make her a simple little stole too! (I didn’t use the pattern for that – I just squared off the edges of the fabric and finished them with the rolled-hem feature on the overlocker [serger]).

(Daddy took the photographs – a bit of a family event in the end!)

Dagens verk är en grön raveklänning med alvhuva.  Bestämde mig för att göra en klänning som INTE är i Linneastorlek för en gångs skull, så den här passar ungefär en 38-42:a, men om man inte vill ha den tight, så kan man ju ha den om man är mindre också.

Det var ganska svårt att fånga tyget på bild, det blev så blåaktigt av blixten, men det är i alla fall glansigt, lite sammetsaktigt och har ett mönster av vattenvirvlar och liljor.

Här kommer en bra närbild:

pris: SÅLD

För alla intresserade kan jag bara glädja er med att det går framåt på sykursen och äntligen har jag fått möjlighet att pröva på overlocken, det vill säga att jag idag sydde på overlock för första gången. Det var helt otroligt roligt och jag kan knappt vänta till nästa vecka då jag ska sy färdigt min t-shirt som jag började på idag. Jag tycker det är skönt att börja med något relativt enkelt för att sedan kunna vidareutveckla alla mina idéer och då främst med t-shirts, det är ju inte så svårt att sy i trikå som man kanske kan tro. Jag hoppas att redan nästa vecka både bli färdig med samt börja med ännu en t-shirt, och till min kära mor kan jag inte säga annat än; Ja! Vi köper en overlock!

x

Imorgon är det dags att ta ett av de första stegen mot att uppnå mitt största nyårslöfte detta år; nämligen att lära mig att sy. Självklart kommer jag inte kunna lära mig det på bara ett år eftersom det krävs åratals av träning och extremt tålamod för att ens kunna tråckla ihop en tröja, men jag tänker inte ge mig i första taget och har inhandlat både måttband och knappnålar för att komma igång. Nu vet jag inte hur grundligt denna kursen kommer att gå men jag hoppas innerligt att vi kommer få tillfälle att sy lite efter egna önskemål och på så sätt lära oss på den vägen. Trots att vi saknar en overlock hemma så är jag säker på att jag kommer kunna fullfölja denna kursen med berömd godkänt, det gäller att tro på sig själv!

x

It’s our anniversary today.  We’ve been married 18 years.  And I’m spending the evening on my own.   Everybody say “aaw”.

Kevin has to work this evening (he’s a nurse) which is a shame – the having to work bit, not the being a nurse bit – but I’m managing to keep myself entertained.

I made a pair of curtains this evening!  How cool is that?  They’re for a “pretend” post office that one of our teacher’s has had built in her classroom.  She’d picked up some lovely jazzy fabric from Ikea on the weekend and brought it in to school today.  They all know I’m really into my sewing at the moment (I probably bore the pants off them talking about it all the time!) so she knew I’d be keen to try a new challenge.

Actually, they were really easy to make.  I cut the fabric into two and overlocked the cut edges to stop them fraying.  Then all I had to do was turn a narrow hem down the sides and one wide enough at the top to thread the pole through (she didn’t want any header tape so that made it easier).  I didn’t hem the bottoms just in case the fabric wasn’t long enough but because I’d already overlocked them they looked ok.  I’m really pleased with the finished result.  I’ll take some pics of them tomorrow “in situ”.

Talking of pics, Kevin opened a Folksy shop yesterday to try and sell some of his photographs.  Take a little peek at http://www.folksy.com/shops/PixFactory

Denna klänningen är ihopkommen av diverse spillbitar jag hade liggandes.

Tyget är vanlig bomullstrikå i lila, mörkgrönt och ljusgrönt, är fruktansvärt nöjd med resultatet.

Jag har sytt en liknande klänning av samma tyg till en vän, bild på den kommer förhoppningsvis nästa vecka.

Passando Rapidamente pra deixar um livro de Stephen King, O Iliminado (The Shining no original)

Sinopse by Wiki

Jack Torrance é um escritor que está tentando reconstruir a vida de sua família e, principalmente, a sua, tentanto se curar do alcoolismo que o fez quebrar o braço de seu filho Danny quando este tinha apenas três anos de idade, e agredir um aluno na escola New England, custando o seu emprego de professor. Ele aceita o trabalho de zelador de inverno no isolado e imenso resort hotel Overlook, cujo passado é fantasmagórico. Esperando para provar a todos que ele se recuperou do alcoolismo, e agora tornou-se uma pessoa responsável, Jack Torrance se muda para o Hotel Overlook com sua esposa, Wendy, e o jovem filho, Danny, que é telepático e sensivo a forças sobrenaturais. Logo após a família chegar no hotel, Danny e o chef do hotel, Dick Hallorann, tem uma breve conversa particular. Eles conversam sobre o talento telepático de Danny e a natureza sinistra do hotel. Dick informa Danny que ele também tem essa habilidade, que, como a avó de Dick Halloran costumava dizer, chama-se “shining” ou “iluminação”. Na conversa, Dick também avisa Danny para evitar o quarto 237 a todos os custos, e tenta tranquilizar Danny que as coisas que ele irá ver são como “figuras em um livro” e “Eu não acho que essas coisas (se referindo as coisas que Danny verá) possam machucar alguém”. A conversa termina com Dick dizendo a Danny “Se tiver algum problema… dê uma chamada (telepática)”. O hotel carrega forças sobrenaturais malignas do passado. Danny, que tem premonições do perigo do hotel para a sua família, começa a ver fantasmas e visões assustadoras do passado do hotel, mas lembra que elas não são assustadoras agora, no presente. Ele não conta aos seus pais sobre as visões, pois ele sabe a importância do trabalho para o seu pai e o futuro de sua família. Tendo dificuldades em possuir Danny, o hotel começa a possuir Jack, tirando dele a sua vontade e desejo de trabalhar. Como Jack começa a agir de modo estranho, o fantasma sinistro do hotel gradativamente acaba possuindo-o. Então, Jack, possuido pelas forças sobrenaturais e sinistras do hotel, passa a querer matar Wendy e Danny, no desejo de absorver as habilidades psíquicas de Danny. Wendy e Danny acabam prendendo Jack na despensa do hotel, espécie de local para armazenar coisas, mas o fantasma de Delbert Grady, um dos zeladores do Hotel Overlook (que assassinou sua família e depois cometeu suicídio com um tiro na boca) o solta. Nesse momento, Wendy descobre que estão completamente isolados no hotel e, Jack, destruiu o snowmobile (“carro” próprio para andar na neve) do hotel. Uma perigosa batalha ocorre entre Wendy e Jack/O Hotel. Jack/O Hotel, usando um dos malhos do hotel, planeja matá-la, porém ela o golpeia nas costas com uma larga faca de cozinheiro. Wendy foge, Jack/O Hotel a persegue. Nesse momento, Dick Hallorann, o qual Danny chamou para o hotel através de sua iluminação, está a caminho do Hotel Overlook para investigar. Jack/O Hotel deixa Wendy no banheiro e se atenta a matar Dick Hallorann, destruindo seu maxilar e dando-lhe uma concussão com o malho. Jack/O Hotel então começa a perseguir Danny. Danny escapa por lembrar que Jack/O Hotel tem que fazer algo com a caldeira no porão, que vai queimar e destruir todo o hotel. Jack/O Hotel corre rapidamente para o porão, enquanto Danny, Wendy e Hallorann abandonam o hotel, que imediatamente explode. A novela termina com Danny e Wendy indo passar o verão em um resort no Maine, onde Dick Halloran é o cozinheiro chefe.

CLIQUE AQUI para visualizar e/ou baixar o livro de Stephen King – O Iluminado para o seu computador.

Se busca una máquina de coser overlock de 5 hilos industrial Willcox & Gibbs.
Si alguien tiene una o conoce a alguien que esté vendiendo una… avisenme por favor.
Estas máquinas son las de mis sueños… Y estoy ligeramente peleanda con mi BabyLock.
Gracias!

Ganz zu Anfang hab ich ja mal mein Dilemma mit der Overlock beschrieben. Reparieren oder nicht? Ich hab sie reparieren lassen, dann Mangels Zeit nicht abholen können, nun abgeholt und dann – kranke Kinder. Aber nun hab ich sie getestet: mit drei Gretas von GRETELIES….. Okay, ich hatte irgendwie nur “bunte” Konen – daher drei schwarze, ein blauer und ein weißer Faden. Daher auch nur Reststoffe…. und daher muß ich mit dem Ergebnis leben, das Fleece (zumindest der gewählte) nicht so dehnbar ist, als das ich die zu den Kindskopf passenden Altersangaben nutzen kann…

Egal: Ich bin von der Maschine und vom Schnitt begeistert! Sogar mein großes Kind wollte so eine Mütze! Passende Stulpen gab auch, aber kein Foto dazu.

Gretelies

- Dikkat ,aşağıdaki overclock ve modifikasyon hakkındaki yazı www.garantipc.net ten alıntıdır. 

- Kimine göre overclock (hız aşırtma) , kimine göre overlok , kimi zaman bir hobi , kimi zaman uygun fiyata en yüksek performansı elde etme çabası , diğer bir tabirle donanımın suyunu çıkarmak. Bir zamanlar overclock sonucu yanan donanımları garanti kapsamına almayan üreticiler artık overclock a (hız aşırtma) yatkın modellerle kullanıcıları cezbetmeye , rakiplerinin arasından sıyrılmaya çalışıyorlar. Öyleki normal bir modelin akabinde OC editition gibi kod isimlerle , kendinden hız aşırtma yapılmış modeller dahi görmek mümkün. Gittikçe daha fazla moda halini alan overclock yani hız aşırtma hakkında bilgi almak , tecrübeli kullanıcıların fikrini sormak için en güzel mekanlar ise donanım siteleri.Aşağıda bu konuda her türlü detaya ve kullanıcı yorumlarına ulaşabileceğiniz bazı gözde forumların adreslerini sunuyoruz.

Detaylı bilgi ve linkler için tıklayınız

http://www.garantipc.net/overclock/

- Kimine göre overclock (hız aşırtma) , kimine göre overlok , kimi zaman bir hobi , kimi zaman uygun fiyata en yüksek performansı elde etme çabası , diğer bir tabirle donanımın suyunu çıkarmak. Bir zamanlar overclock sonucu yanan donanımları garanti kapsamına almayan üreticiler artık overclock a (hız aşırtma) yatkın modellerle kullanıcıları cezbetmeye , rakiplerinin arasından sıyrılmaya çalışıyorlar. Öyleki normal bir modelin akabinde OC editition gibi kod isimlerle , kendinden hız aşırtma yapılmış modeller dahi görmek mümkün. Gittikçe daha fazla moda halini alan overclock yani hız aşırtma hakkında bilgi almak , tecrübeli kullanıcıların fikrini sormak için en güzel mekanlar ise donanım siteleri.Aşağıda bu konuda her türlü detaya ve kullanıcı yorumlarına ulaşabileceğiniz bazı gözde forumların adreslerini sunuyoruz.

Detaylı bilgi ve linkler için tıklayınız

http://www.garantipc.net/overclock/

Examples of stretch fabrics might be Lycra, knits, jerseys, stretch satin, stretch poplin, even something that is not cut on the direction of the thread, especially something bias cut.

Wondering how not to make stretchy fabric stretch beyond belief, yet still keep the seam stretchy enough so that it does not break, when the fabric stretches?

Well here are some tips from what I have read and been practicing, just some secrets of the trade.

Stabilizing the fabric to avoid wavy seams

You can avoid wavy seams on stretch fabrics by sewing through a layer of iron on water soluble stabilizer applied over the seam line. Or you can sew through thin tissue paper the you can then rip out of the seam. Or you can use starch (flour and water solution that you spray on), let it dry and that will stabilize the fabric, but test it first on a scrap piece to make sure you do not stain the fabric.

Another trick is to glue on adhesive tape on the exterior edge of the fabric, and then stitch next to the band, towards the interior. The extra taped edge can be then cut away.

The right needle

Consult your sewing machine manual for indications about what needle to choose for the right fabric. Knits and jerseys require a ball point needle, that is not very sharp, but blunt and it will not cut the weave of the fabric, but push the threads aside when piercing the fabric. A ball point needle will avoid those loose running fraying stitches in jerseys.

Choosing the right stitch

The stitch you choose for stretch fabrics needs to stretch with the fabric without breaking.

Serger / Overlock Stitches

A serger is best, I love my Singer QUANTUMLOCK 14T967DC! Here’s a list of all it can do: http://www.singerco.com/resources/serger_stitch_wkbk.html

Most often I serge the edges without needing an additional re-enforcement stitch, simply by serging both seam allowances together. This gives clothes a store both look on the inside.

3 thread mock safety stitch

In case I want narrow seams on the inside, for stretch jerseys or even for transparent fabrics in general the G setting on my Singer is my favorite.

http://www.singerco.com/pdf/resources/14T967/06_3_mock.pdf

“This stitch stretches with the fabric, the seam will not break when the fabric is stretched. It is ideal for super-stretch knits like those used on swim-wear or athlete clothing. This stitch uses two needles and one looper.”

I like it because it uses just 3 threads so it is more economic.

4 thread ultra stretch mock safety stitch

If you need a little extra strength, then an extra thread and tension settings A will do:

http://www.singerco.com/pdf/resources/14T967/07_4_mock.pdf

“The Four-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch is stronger than the Three-Thread Ultra-Stretch Mock Safety Stitch. The additional thread provides added strength to the seam and is good choice for knits as well as wovens. This stitch works well when applying ribbing to a garment. Ribbing is often seen on cuffs, collars and waistbands of active wear. This stitch requires two needle threads and two looper threads.”

These are the stitches I use most on my serger for sewing sides and setting in armholes, etc…for the basic steps in garment construction.

Cover-stitches for hems

The singer offers 3 kinds of coverstitch: narrow, wide and triple. I like the narrow coverstitch for thin jerseys, the wide for knits.

“Two needles create parallel rows of top stitching and one looper sew an edge finish on the underneath side. Depending on which needle position is selected the width can be 5.6mm wide or 2.8 mm wide.”

The triple cover stitch would look great on any fabric, even with different colors for the threads, but I use it rarely, because it is harder to take the fabric out or the machine once you finish the seam.

“This innovative stitch provides a very wide 5.6 mm professional and creative triple topstitch to sewing projects. Three needles create parallel rows of topstitching and one looper sews an edge finish on the underneath side. This is ideal for heavier fabrics traditionally used in home decorating. It also adds a unique accent for garment construction. In addition to sewing on woven fabrics, the Triple Cover Hem makes a beautiful topstitch and a strong hem on stretch fabrics. This stitch emulates hem finishing as seen on ready-to-wear garments.”

Flatlock as a mock cover stitch

There are sergers out there that do not have coverstitches built in, as there are coverstitch machines that only do hems.

You can use a flatlock stitch on your serger to simulate a coverstitch, only you will not have two parallel lines, but many parallel vertical stitches on the right side of the fabric and a safety stitch on the back that will prevent the fabric from fraying. I think the result on the right side is called a ladder stitch.

http://www.singerco.com/pdf/resources/14T967/05_flatlock.pdf

“The Flatlock Stitch is used decoratively to achieve the look of applied trim on a garment, craft or home decorator projects. Special decorative threads are used for a textured and dramatic embellishment effect. The Flatlock Stitch can also be used to serge non-bulky seams. The Flatlock Stitch is sewn with one needle and the upper and lower loopers. Both sides of the Flatlocking Stitch are considered decorative. The decorative loop effect is achieved when the Flatlock seams are stitched with the fabrics wrong sides together. The ladder stitch is achieved when the Flatlock seams are stitch with the fabrics right sides together. There are 2 different ways to set up for a Three-Thread Flatlock stitch. For a more narrow stitch (4.0) select the right overedge needle; for a wider stitch (6.0) the left overedge needle is used.”

Blind stitch for invisible hems

Other models might have a blind stitch and that can be used with stretch fabrics just as well for hems. There is also a blind stitch foot as an attachment to the machine; it helps you guide the fabric while sewing.

Ruffled edges and rolled hems

For ruffled edges salad like finishes on stretch fabrics, pull the fabric on the back and front a little to stretch it (don’t over do it, just tension it a little). Choose a rolled hem on a serger and use nice decorative threads.

http://www.singerco.com/pdf/resources/14T967/14_rolled_hem.pdf

“The Rolled Hem Stitch is used to finish edges of scarves, ruffles, table linens, and some garments. It is suitable for lightweight to medium weight fabrics, such as sheers, silkies and broadcloth. Beautiful pin tucks can be achieved with the rolled hem. They can enhance a yoke, heirloom sewing, wearable art and even home decorating projects.”

Differential feed

With a serger that has differential feed, you can play with the feed dogs to gather or stretch the fabric while sewing. The Brother 1034D serger’s user manual link below explains this very well.

There are two rows of feed dogs on the serger, one in front, one in the back.

If they both feed the fabric equally that is normal sewing. The feed ratio is 1.0 for normal sewing.

With a low feed ratio, like 0.7 to 1.0, the main feed, the read feed dogs pull harder then the front dogs, the material is pulled tight. This prevents thin materials from puckering.

With a higher feed radio, between 1.0 and 2.0, the differential feed (front) pulls harder then the rear feed dogs, the material is gathered or pushed together. This prevents stretch materials from stretching or puckering.

So to produce a salad like edge, choose the lower feed ratio, to prevent a salad like looking edge, choose a higher feed ratio.

Where to see examples

Look for machine and serger manuals, they have a bunch of examples that can inspire you.

For more examples on using these stitches have a look at the Brother serger, once you get familiar with your machine, you can achieve similar results, all you have to do is choose the right tension threads and thread the right needles/loopers J Lol that sounds easy, right?!

http://www.brother-usa.com/ModelDocuments/Consumer/Users%20Manual/UM_1034D_ENES_178.PDF

Sewing Machine Stitches

While a serger is great to have and surely speeds things up, not having one should not stop you from sewing stretch jerseys. You need to play with the stitches on your machine, test them first on scraps and adjust the thread tension and stitch length/width.

Zig Zags or stretch straight stitch

The zig zag stitch for stretch fabrics should be used instead of a straight simple stitch that would break when you stretch the fabric. Some machines have a triple step straight stitch that works great with some fabrics, but can sometimes stretch them too much and produce wavy seams. Choose a longer step if this happens and try again.

For a zig zag choose: ½-2mm wide and 3-4mm long stitches.

For finishing edges of seam allowances some home sewing machines offer overlock like stitches, if these are not available then use the wide zig zag stitch instead, with steps’ length above 1.5mm. The sorter the length of the stitch, the more the fabric will stretch, salad like looking…test it before and compromise between the fraying and the stretch. The needle should pierce the fabric towards the interior, and it should step off the fabric on the outer side of the fabric. You can also sew a zig zag and then cut the allowance off, just be careful not to cut the seam itself.

Twin Needle

Using a double needle or a twin needle, the hems can be done while maintaining the elasticity of the seam. On the right side of the fabric two straight parallel stitches will appear, while on the wrong side, a zig zag stitch will also re-enforce the raw edge of the folded hem. The zig zag on the back is responsible for the stretchiness of this seam.

Ruffled edges

A salad looking like edge can be created on stretch or bias fabrics with a narrow zig zag stitch with short stitches, using a decorative shiny thread, like rayon, and holding the fabric to stretch it while sewing. You can create a fold into the fabric and sew over the fold’s edge, then cut off the excess allowance off. I like to sew from the wrong side of the fabric, with the decorative thread in the bobbin, and hold the raw edge of the fabric upwards guided through the machine feet, so that the edge is in the middle of the zig zag and the sewing thread covers it. This way I don’t have to cut off any excess fabric.

Fold over elastic

I love fold over elastic tapes that capture the raw edge of the fabric in the middle, they are a great way to add shine and finish the edges with a professional look. Same stitches can be applied to the folded elastic: double straight stitch, or a zig zag or a twin needle/cover stitch.

Decorative elastics can also be used, see: http://www.burdastyle.com/howtos/show/45

Some fabrics allow you to leave the edges unfinished as they are, pull on the fabric to check for fraying first.

Look at the way jerseys are finished for the store bought clothes. You can use other serger stitches with decorative thread, even with metallic threads in the lower loopers for decorative effects, add ribbons under the seams, or apply a coverstitch that encloses a thin clear elastic band on the underside to do gathers, or do a coverstitch close to the edge of the fabric without folding it, leaving a raw edge that will not fray beyond the stitch…use your creativity for creative creations

Clever tips from Burda: http://www.burdafashion.com/downloads/Workshops_EN/Workshop_Jersey_EN.pdf

More tips for knits from Laura: http://laurasewingroom.blogspot.com/2008/07/can-you-take-more-knit-dresses.html

Totally use this for every hem you make: http://behindtheseams.wordpress.com/2006/06/20/coverstitching-over-serged-seams/

Knit Types for http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4179/samplings-of-weft-knit-and-warp-knit-fabrics

Are you still reading this? If so, do you feel ready to get your hands on some knits?