The Pont du Gard, ancient Roman aqueduct:

The picturesque village of Gordes:

Oppède Le Vieux:

The imposing Palais des Papes in Avignon:

Cyberpresse – Sylvie St-Jacques

Aux deux tiers du Festival d’Avignon, où il est artiste associé cette année, Wajdi Mouawad sait déjà que cette expérience est un tournant dans sa carrière. Le festival marque en effet la fin de l’aventure du Sang des promesses. Et il la vit dans une sorte d’état de grâce…

«Je commence à savoir que je suis né au Liban», blague Wajdi Mouawad, qui est un peu et même beaucoup «partout», dans ce Festival d’Avignon, où il est artiste associé. Il y a eu la Cour d’honneur du Palais des papes, qu’il a occupée cinq soirs durant avec les 11 heures des trois premières pièces du cycle Le sang des promesses. Et ensuite Ciels, la quatrième et ultime portion de sa tétralogie.

Quand il n’est pas au théâtre le soir, son programme de jour est rempli d’une foule de rencontres avec le public, de collaborations artistiques (avec notamment Jane Birkin et la cinéaste Christelle Lheureux), d’émissions de radio…

Aux deux tiers du festival, Wajdi Mouawad évalue cette expérience comme un lieu déterminant dans sa trajectoire d’artiste. «C’est l’endroit où j’aurai terminé mon quatuor, sur lequel j’ai travaillé pendant 12 ans. C’est un moment où quelque chose finit. Ça naît et ça n’est plus», confie l’homme de théâtre, qui reçoit La Presse sur une terrasse privée, bien à l’abri de la sollicitation de ses fans européens qui lui portent un culte.

La fin d’un cycle

Wajdi l’avait évoqué pendant la rencontre de presse qu’il avait tenue lors de son entrée en poste comme directeur artistique du Centre national des arts d’Ottawa: après la tétralogie, il pourrait ne plus faire de théâtre. Peut-être ira-t-il vers la poésie, mais certainement vers la peinture, forme d’expression qu’il a exploitée avec une certaine virtuosité dans son solo Seuls.

Une chose est certaine, c’est que sa désertion de la scène chagrinera bien des jeunes Français.

Quand je soulève le fait que son statut ici, en Europe, a quelque chose de la rock star, il se montre amusé mais s’en trouve aussi ravi.

«C’est extraordinaire l’écoute que nous avons chez les jeunes ici. Ils lisent beaucoup de théâtre à l’école, et je crois que, dans les cours de français, ils lisent Littoral et Incendies. Ils tombent sur des personnages qui ont leur âge, qui ne sont pas face à la drogue ou à des questions sociales, mais plutôt à des considérations métaphysiques. Ils se sentent pris au sérieux à travers ces histoires qui les font rire et pleurer. Ils sentent bien que c’est écrit par un ado!» plaide Wajdi, qui assure que la meilleure façon de lui faire plaisir, c’est de l’enfermer dans une pièce avec des ados. «Je les aime profondément. Je pense qu’ils le sentent.»

Beaucoup d’énergie

Chose certaine, l’affection des jeunes pour Wajdi s’est manifestée chaleureusement pendant les 11 heures du Sang des promesses. «Ça nous a donné beaucoup d’énergie de sentir cette génération qui arrive», reconnaît Mouawad, qui n’était pas du tout certain que le public allait le suivre pendant cette nuit blanche. «Avec l’équipe, on a fait des paris. Les plus pessimistes disaient que seulement 300 personnes resteraient jusqu’à la fin, les plus optimistes pariaient sur la moitié de la salle. Finalement, 80 % du public a traversé chaque fois la nuit.»

Tout comme les acteurs qui ont joué entre ces murs mythiques qui ont aussi accueilli les Gérard Philipe et Patrice Chéreau, Wajdi Mouawad profite de l’état de grâce qui suit une telle expérience. «J’ai dit aux acteurs que pendant ce festival, c’était leur devoir de profiter de chaque millimètre de ce temps, qu’une telle expérience ne reviendra jamais. Et aussi, que nous n’étions pas là pour prouver que ces pièces sont bonnes, mais bien pour célébrer tout le travail fait pendant 12 ans.»

Quatrième et ultime volet de la tétralogie amorcée avec Littoral en 1997, la pièce Ciels a aussi vu le jour à Avignon. On entre ici dans un propos nouveau chez Wajdi Mouawad. «Avec toutes mes prises de parole, je me suis trouvé à réfléchir sur la relation entre l’État et l’artiste. De tous les temps, l’État a essayé de contrôler deux choses: les artistes et les scientifiques. Ce sont les deux groupes qui peuvent avoir une importance considérable sur les citoyens.»

Après Avignon, il reprendra la route avec les pièces du Sang des promesses. Mais Wajdi aspire à plus de poésie, à moins de mots. Il cherchera «en tout cas, du silence».

Το παλατι των Παπων (εσωτερικη αποψη- main courtyard)

Την Αvignon την επισκεφτηκα  πριν τεσσερα χρονια (προ μπλογκινγκ) κι ετσι δεν εκανα ποτε αναρτηση με φωτογραφιες  απο αυτη την επισκεψη, θεωρωντας την α θινγκ φρομ δε παστ!  Πριν λιγες μερες φερνοντας φωτογραφιες στο καινουργιο λαπτοπ, σταματησα λιγο παραπανω στην Avignon σα να με επιασε μια νοσταλγια.  Ορμωμενη απο την γειτονικη πολη Arles, τη φημισμενη για τις αρεννες και το υδραγωγειο της,  εκανα εκδρομες στις γυρω πολεις, Nimes, Camargue, Chateauneuf du Pape (ευλογημενος κρασσοτοπος) και φυσικα και στην  Avignon στα συνορα της περιοχης  Languedoc-Roussillon με την Provence-Alpes Maritimes.  Ηταν ενα καταπληκτικο ταξιδι μαζι με τη Δαφνουλα μου.  Η Αβινιον ειναι γνωστη σε μας απο το τραγουδακι που μας μαθαιναν μικρα στα Γαλλικα, αν θυμαστε:

Sur le pont d’Avignon
On y danse, on y danse
Sur le pont d’Avignon
On y danse tout en rond

Les beaux messieurs font comme ça
Et puis encore comme ça

Les belles dames font comme ça
Et puis encore comme ça.

Την γεφυρα της Αβινιον δεν τα καταφερα να τη βγαλω φωτογραφια, αν θυμαμαι καλα εμεινα απο μπαταρια.  Ετσι φερνω μια εδω για να συμπληρωσω την εικονα απο το διαδυκτιο.  Οι φωτογραφιες που ακολουθουν ειναι απο αυτες που προλαβα να βγαλω περπατωντας στην παλια πολη και επισκεπτομενη το περιφημο παλατι των Παπων.

Απο τα πιο αγαπημενα μνημεια της Γαλλιας το γοτθικο παλατι των Παπων χτιστικε τον 14ο αιωνα οταν ο παπας της Ρωμης Κλημης ο 5ος μετεφερε την παπικη εδρα στην Avignon φοβουμενος την βια που κυριαρχουσε στη Ρωμη εκεινη την εποχη.  Η περιοχη ειναι σε υψωμα και δεσποζει του ποταμου Ροδανου. Φιλετακι θα λεγαμε.  Το παλατι χτιστηκε σε δυο φασεις, στην πρωτη το Παλιο (Palais Vieux) και αργοτερα το καινουργιο (Palais Neuf )  Το καινουργιο κομματι ειναι εκεινο που στις φωτογραφιες φαινονται οι πυργοι. Επισημη παπικη εδρα εμεινε η Avignon  μεχρι το περιφημο παπικο (η δυτικο) σχισμα οπου η Ρωμη ξαναγινεται η εδρα των Παπων, εκτος μερικων αντιφρονουντων που την διατηρησαν σαν εδρα, μεχρι τις αρχες του δεκατου πεμπτου αιωνα.

Εσωτερικα σε πολλες αιθουσες διατηρειται ακομα η παλια αιγλη των ξυλινων ταβανιων, των ταπετσαριων, των τοιχογραφιων και των περιτεχνων πατωματων.  Στη συνεχεια της ιστοριας το παλατι βαφτηκε με το αιμα των αντιεπαναστατων κατα την Γαλλικη επανασταση και αργοτερα στη Ναπολεοντεια Γαλλια εγινε και φυλακη.  Τελος μολις στις αρχες του εικοστου αιωνα το περιφημο παλατι των Παπων εγινε μουσειο και απο τοτε βρισκεται σε συνεχη αναστυλωση.

Η κουζινα στην Αβινιον δεν ειναι η τυπικη Γαλλικη με τις κρεμες τις και τα παχεια τυρια της. Ειναι περισσοτερο μεσογειακη.  Ετσι πιο φιλικη στη δικη μας παλεττα δεν υπαρχει περιπτωση να μη μας αρεσει, κυριως οταν συνοδευεται με ενα απο τα υπεροχα κοκκινα κρασια της κοιλαδας του Ροδανου.

Στην τελευταια φωτογραφια βλεπουμε ζωγραφικη “trompe l’oeil” , ισως απο τις πιο πετυχημενες που εχω δει.

Η αναρτηση ειναι στα πλαισια των αναρτησεων ” που στην Vaulcluse να παω φετος το καλοκαιρι“

This weekend was the first of our two overnight trips provided by ACCENT and it certainly set a precedent. The region we visited was Provence and we covered quite a bit of the area in our short 3 day tour. 

Our trip started Friday in Avignon, about 3 hours south of Paris by train. I enjoyed taking the train because we could actually watch the landscape change as we drove farther south. Avignon is a quaint little town and I enjoyed seeing some sun, but it turned out to be much windier than we had originally expected. After we arrived we had 2 hours to explore and eat lunch. We climbed the rocky outcrop to one end of the town, called les Rocher des Domes, which gave us a great view of the city and the Rhône River. It was so windy at the top, however, that I was worried we might all blow over the side of the rock. 

View of the Palais des Papes

Avignon is famous today because it was the seat of the Catholic Papacy instead of Rome from 1309 to 1377. After our lunch, we were given a guided tour by the ACCENT resident tour guide and historian Mirek of the Palais des Papes, which was built as fortification to protect the popes while they lived there. Because of the palace, Avignon (which had been a small town prior to the pope’s move) grew and actually had a larger population than it does today. While it is a charming town and I enjoyed our overnight stay, it definitely felt as though it was the shell of what was once a thriving metropolis.

Today most people only know of Avignon because of the famous French children’s song Sur le pont d’Avignon. I visited the bridge, which actually only stretches halfway across the Rhône, but it was closed for the night, and I was not able to dance on the bridge like the songs suggests you should. Instead, we danced below it. 

le Pont du Gard

After our night in Avignon, day 2 began with a stop at le Pont du Gard. An aqueduct built by the Romans in the first century AD, le Pont du Gard is still entirely preserved thanks to the French government. We were lucky because we had a guided tour and we were allowed to walk along the very top passageway that is normally closed off to visitors. This gave us great views of the Provence countryside, thought unfortunately it’s still winter and the foliage was more barren than I imagine it is in the spring and summer. 

After le Pont du Gard we jumped back in the bus to our next stop, the town of Arles. The only real reason we stopped in Arles was to visit the Arènes, a Roman arena built on a smaller scale than the Colosseum but used for similar purposes. However, we also stopped there for lunch. Most of us had stolen food from the incredible hotel breakfast that morning and went looking for a place to eat our packed lunches. During our search we found a building dedicated to Vincent Van Gogh, who lived in Arles and painted it for several years. The Arènes and Van Gogh dedication were interesting but we definitely did not need to spend 2 1/2 hours wandering around Arles. We all agreed that it was a little underwhelming. 

The incredible view from Les Beaux

But our next stop, the small town of Les Baux de Provence, was absolutely worth it, and I wish I’d had more time to explore. The village of 24 people sits among the rocks and can only be reached by foot. At the very top sit the ruins of a château built during the Middle Ages and destroyed by Cardinal Richelieu. We climbed around the ruins for a while and then walked along the cobblestone streets, looking at all the cute boutiques and great views of the countryside below. 

Our final stop for the day was Aix-en-Provence, a small provincial college town made famous by the painter Cezanne. Saturday night we ate an incredible dinner, completely covered by ACCENT, of mozzarella and tomato salad, braised lamb shank with mashed potatoes and chocolate fondant cake for dessert. It was incredible and great to taste some of the regional flavors, such as tapenade (an olive paste) in the dishes. 

Before departing for Paris on Sunday we were given a walking tour of Aix that ended at Cezanne’s atelier, an adorable house that sits on a hill right outside of Vieux Aix. Though I hadn’t thought much of Aix the previous night, our explorations on Sunday changed my mind. There was an open-air book market and farmers market where I tried samples of tapenade and cheese. Everything smelled so fresh and delicious that I could have bought something from every stall, and the prices came directly from the growers so they were much cheaper than trying to buy fresh in Paris.  

I enjoyed my little taste of the Paris countryside this weekend and certainly found the history and culture interesting to learn about. But I found myself excited to come home to Paris Sunday evening and get back to a more urban lifestyle. It’s amazing how quickly one can become infused with the Parisian mentality of the benefits of the city compared to provincial life.

Cezanne's atelier in Aix-en-Provence

Sur le pont d’Avignon

L’on y danse, l’on y danse

Sur le pont d’Avignon

L’on y danse tous en rond…

(On the bridge of Avignon

Everyone is dancing, everyone is dancing

On the bridge of Avignon

Everyone is dancing in a circle)

I have to admit, when I was a child learning this nursery tune, I had no idea Avignon was a place that actually existed, nor that I’d actually end up there one day.  But lo and behold – you never know where life will take you!  Admittedly, however, it wasn’t the famous bridge alone which drew me to Avignon today, but its rich history as a former home to several reigning Pope’s during the 14th century.

Since my visit to Rome last month, and my subsequent reading of Angels and Demons by Dan Brown (if you haven’t read it – it’s a pretty damn good read) my love of history has found a new subject to devour in the Catholic Church.  Interestingly, the Catholic Church was led from Avignon for much of the 14th century after Pope Clement V fled ongoing political turmoil in Rome.  (And the Great Schism that followed led to concurrent Pope’s in both Rome and Avignon continually denouncing and excommunicating one another.. which, if you visualize it, is actually pretty amusing).  

Anyway!  Off I went to Avignon.  First stop, the Palais des Papes.  Apparently, it is the largest gothic palace in the world and I have to admit – it is pretty imposing.  That’s about all it’s got going for it however, as the interior has been completely stripped of any riches it used to contain and only a few of the medieval wall murals remain to be seen.  I’m sorry to say that what fascinated me the most was la bouteillerie and la dégustation made available next to the gift store on your way out.  Er… wine tasting in the Palace of the Popes?!  Seems slightly sacrilegious, but who am I to complain??!  Yum yum yum – let’s just say I left feeling pretty pleased with my visit thus far

My first glimpse of Palais des Papes

It was gloriously overcast.  Finally – a bit of a breeze!!

I love street performers!

Whew – well, you know where you are, anyway.

A couple of cool dudes inside the Palace

This was the only room with semi-preserved original wall murals.  Nothing like the Vatican – but these were pre-Michelangelo days anyway.

The view out over the Palace into the courtyard below.

A view across the city.  Kind of reminds me of London with the River Rhone and a London Eye type wheel.

A quick little jaunt about town and I found myself on the river Rhone glazing at the infamous Pont d’Avignon, or Pont St-Bénezet as it’s officially named.  There’s a pretty interesting myth about St. Bénezet in that he was said to be the town-crazy before one day he went screaming along the river banks that he had been told by God to build a bridge across the Rhone.  As a wild river that floods continuously (most recently in the 1990s), the townsfolk laughed at him and told him it was impossible.  If he was chosen by God, he could prove it by laying a massive foundation stone, all by himself.  Miraculously, Bénezet picked up a massive boulder and walked it easily to the shore.  Legend has it, the townspeople began construction that very day.

Completed originally in 1185, the bridge collapsed and was rebuilt continuously after repeated flooding.  Finally, in the mid 1660’s, it was left as-is and today, the remains only span three quarters of the way across the river.

The pont d’Avignon! 

Oooh – a drawbridge – exciting!

A chapel dedicated to St. Bénezet is located on the lower level of the bridge, and the upper level contains another chapel devoted to St. Nicholas.  Why there should be chapels on a bridge, I have no idea.  But after 5 months in France, nothing the French do anymore can surprise me!

Heading down to the Chapel

Chapelle St. Bénezet

A shot along the bridge back towards town.  Didn’t actually see any dancers though…

A few shots about town on my way back to the bus station.  Lots of frivolity and a general air of festivity which I soaked up with absolute pleasure!

I found this random statue in a quiet park.  There was no title to it, but a look at his book reveals he is reading Jan Fabre’s play “Je Suis Une Erreur” (I Am a Mistake).  An idea which this dude seems to find hilarious.

The main square in town.  Restaurants and artists means lots of tourists.

Yay!  This one has lights and everything!  Way cooler than the one in Aix… and Marseille, come to think of it.

Rows upon rows of delicious soft-serve ice cream!  (But oh how I long for my TCBY)

I just think Rapido Resto is too funny not to capture on film.

PS – if you’ve never heard the pont d’Avignon tune, nor heard of the bridge, you can check out Davey Dance here.  (And as an aside – check out his “Baby Got Back” vid in Paris.  Classic.)

After a stormy spring, the sun is finally shining in Avignon, just in time for one of the city’s best events, the Fête de la Musique. Always occuring on the summer solstice, the Fête de la Musique is a day for amateur and professional musicians throughout France to take over the streets of their cities. Avignon’s reputation as a performance town draws musicians and visitors from all of Provence every year.

No cars will be allowed within the city walls tomorrow, so parking may be even more difficult than usual. Contact your hotel or read my Parking in Avignon post for suggestions on parking alternatives.

One of the best ways to experience the Fête de la Musique is to just wander the town and see where your ears take you, but be sure to check out the following spots for the best the city has to offer:

1. Notre Dame des Doms (next to the Palais des Papes) – Organ recital in the city’s most famous church from 2:00 PM to 3:00 PM
2. Place de l’Horloge – Avignon’s biggest square will offer a variety of jazz and blues performances throughout the day.
3. Place des Corps Saints – One of Avignon’s most charming little squares, this year it will host a variety of indy rock bands from 7:00PM through Midnight. Head east through Park Agricole Perdiguier behind the tourist office to find this hidden gem. Get there early to snag a good seat at Les Celestins, the local bar.
4. Palais du Roure (near Rue Saint Agricol) – Traditional Provençal music from 7:00 PM on. A great opportunity to hear spoken Occitane, the region’s fading dialect.
5. Rue Bonneterie- A variety of DJs from 8:00PM on. Jamaican Reggae, Techno and House.

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As published at PlanetEye

Image by ~Phil Moore (Flickr)

The short walk from La Mirande to the café scene at Place de l’Horloge may be one of the most beautiful strolls Avignon has to offer. Just steps away from the city’s top tourist sites, this four-star hotel is ideally situated for travelers wishing to be at the center of it all while still having a quiet place to call home when the day is done. Sheltered by the Palais des Papes and its 18-foot thick walls, this luxury hotel is calm and composed even during the city’s notoriously raucous theatre festival.

Part of what makes La Mirande so distinct is the incredible detail that has gone into preserving the traditions and style of a European luxury hotel while eliminating the sort of corpse-like formality which can leave guests hurrying off to their rooms. In a town famous for its theatre, La Mirande knows how to act like a four-star hotel.

Many historic hotels have a schizophrenic approach to design. Unsure how to merge modern technology with period décor, belle époque armoires are too often weighed down by clunky TVs, rococo desks left cluttered with DSL cables and iPod docks. At La Mirande, the emphasis is on beauty, detail and discretion. At first glance, the spacious guest rooms, with their antique tapestries, paintings, and Pakistani carpets, look as if Flaubert or Baudelaire could have just checked out. On closer inspection, however, the luxuries of the modern era are all there: marble bathrooms with Frisbee-sized shower heads, his and hers sinks, robes and slippers, and best of all, a flat screen TV discreetly hidden beneath a two-way mirror.

The lounge, garden, bar and a collection of other quiet public spaces are equally charming and offer a variety of settings for guests to sip an espresso, read le Figaro, and let the day slip by. When their appetites pick up, the renowned Michelin-starred Restaurant La Mirande, offers an organic locally grown menu sure to please even the pickiest eater. Guests hoping to learn the chef’s secrets can sign up for cooking classes held in the building’s perfectly preserved medieval cellar, complete with vaulted ceilings, shiny copper pots, and a 10-meter deep well.

As a small hotel with only 21 rooms, La Mirande is able to offer impeccable customer service and a one-to-one employee-client ratio during the high season. Rooms fill up fast however, and guests are recommended to make their reservations at least three months in advance.

As published at PlanetEye

 Au croisement des souvenirs et de mes vies, il y a Avignon. J’y ai capté  quelques images magiques alors que j’étais avec mon ex, en courant pour aller voir une opérette au théâtre sur la place de l’horloge. Ce jour-là, j’ai vu ce couple parfait qui danse un joli tango sur le parvis du Palais des Papes. Un moment saisi à la volée, quasi miraculeux, alors que la lumière est amoureusement préservée sur les murailles du bâtiment. En les croisant, j’ai pensé à un autre amour qui m’habitait alors et toujours, à ma danseuse, celle qui tourne en moi. J’ai pensé à la difficulté d’être dans le pas de deux, d’être “synchro”. J’ai pensé à la solitude et à la magie des retrouvailles et j’ai compris que tout était fragile mais précieux. Après j’ai appris en montrant cette vidéo que le danseur est le voisin et le locataire d’un autre ex, à Avignon, une fille qui m’a mis à deux genoux et des petits cailloux dans le coeur. Et puis aussi Avignon, c’était la ville d’adolescence de Véronique, mon amour morte qui habitait en face, à Villeneuve-lès-Avignon et dont j’avais une belle photo sur les rives du Pont sur lequel on y danse, on y danse…Allez, envoyez la musique et étourdissons-nous!

<div><object width=”425″ height=”335″><param name=”movie” value=”http://www.dailymotion.com/swf/58HIf9YOIItLh1oVD”></param><param name=”allowfullscreen” value=”true”></param><embed src=”http://www.dailymotion.com/swf/58HIf9YOIItLh1oVD” type=”application/x-shockwave-flash” width=”425″ height=”335″ allowfullscreen=”true”></embed></object><br /><b><a href=”http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x75u5_le-tango-davignon_creation”>LE TANGO D’AVIGNON</a></b><br /><i>envoyé par <a href=”http://www.dailymotion.com/philippelazare”>philippelazare</a></i></div>