I’ve been thinking a lot lately about downsizing my life (read: getting rid of a portion of the copious amount of clothing that has somehow made its way into my wardrobe).  But, no matter how many sweaters and button-downs I can part with willingly, I can’t bring myself to get rid of any of my sunglasses.  Nevermind that I more or less exclusively rotate from a selection of the same few pairs of Ray Bans, one cheapo set from Urban Outfitters and a (found!) pair of Ksubis while the others mostly sit in one of two overflowing drawers in my nightstand.  I just like knowing they’re there if I need them.

Since I am on a temporary sunglasses-buying T.O., I’ve decided instead to include a mini round-up of some of my recent favorites from the current crop of new releases.  See those after the jump.

(Top to bottom: Native Son x Mosley Tribes; Linda Farrow Projects x Damir Doma; Shwood; Billionaire Boys Club; Ray-Ban; SUPER)

A quick introduction to how to better understand the nature and impact of personality and personal styles.  And what you can do to use this insight to become better at collaborating, leading, and following, in a diverse environment.

Better collaboration through better understanding of personal styles

My favorite thing about people watching in Italy is how frequently you can come across entire families that are completely put together from head to toe.  This snap from The Sartorialist sums that up pretty nicely for me.  Despite some serious stink-eye from Sibling #1, each of these three characters is showing off nice attention to detail on strong statement pieces, from the plaid-accented boat shoes to the scarf peeking out from underneath the mother’s coat.  My personal favorite, though, is the combination puffer/pea coat on Sibling #2.  Not only is it on-trend with what was shown in Paris and Milan, but it’s a fresh, functional reinterpretation of a classic, just in time for the long stretch of winter when pulling on the same heavy coat is beginning to get boring and repetitive.

It’s too bad we don’t know anything about the father, although the countless well-dressed older Italian men on the Sartorialist and the style on display here in this photo bodes well for this family.

Slam x Hype has a post today about layering, emphasizing how piling on clothing can “add depth and shape to your look.”  That’s certainly true, but they forgot the most important benefit of layering, which would be not freezing your wang off.

Shoes: J. Crew; Cardigan: J. Crew; Shirt: Levis; Jacket: Vintage, courtesy of Mr. Dool, Sr.

So today I decided to get my modern age Grace Jones swag on. I teamed a silk white top with statement shoulder pads with navy blue high-waisted jeans. I also wore a chunky gold necklace interlaced with azure pearls. I knew I’d be on my feet for most of the day and these soft, brown leather heels were perfect for the job.

As I felt that my outfit was quite muted, I threw in my leather Trigger bag – isn’t she a beauty! Funnily enough, I wasn’t even trying to match my shoes and bag (I feel this is such a razz* thing to do if you aren’t attending an occasion or so!) but it just happened. As usual, I have my old faithful bangle watch on which is pretty much glued to my wrist.

Anyway, while some may feel that high-waisted jeans or ‘coat-hanger’ tops are a no-go, such people probably aren’t 5’10 and probably aren’t svelte. I wear what I like and I like what I wear.

‘I’ve always been a rebel. I never do things the way they’re supposed to be done. Either I go in the opposite direction or I create a new direction for myself, regardless of what the rules are or what society says’
- Grace Jones

Top – Zara; Jeans – LongTallSally; Necklace – Kenneth Jay Lane; Watch – BCBG; Bag – Trigger by Alexander McQueen; Shoes – Vince Camuto

*Razz  [raz] - adj.-

1. Chavtastic

2. Common

3. Bush

Elizabeth commented on my previous post :
“No, no, I’m going to ignore you and slavishly follow some magazine editor’s tips for skinny urban women with a professional job.

But seriously — the points you raise are not always easy to figure out. If they were, we would have done it by now, no?”

- – -

I agree that finding your best colours, shapes, and styles is not easy or quick. Once I started thinking about this I had a whole lot to say !

Styling books are a big industry because they’re selling a dream – that someone will wave a magic wand and it will all be obvious and easy and we will look marvellous. And I think many stylists are, very humanly, best at giving advice to people in similar circumstances. In the same way that fashion journalists focus on the showrooms of the fashion capitals of the world. (You only have to look at the people actually walking along the key fashion streets of Paris, Milan, London, New York, to realise that most people don’t dress like fashion magazines at all )

Perhaps some people don’t have as many difficulties with recognising themselves in the style books as I do. But I suspect many do.

I admit I’ve got a large collection of style books bought in hope. . . and yes of course, they suggest a whole lot of interesting things to try which I might not have thought of myself. But it isn’t the case that everything they suggest is right for everybody. If I did follow exactly what they say, I would often be wearing the wrong colours, the wrong shapes, and the wrong styles. Fortunately I know enough about myself and my life usually to recognise when I would be unhappy with what they suggest.

- – -

I’m sure anyone who’s read a styling book has their own examples, but here is some of the advice that goes wrong for me :

Colour :
I’ve never managed to identify my colour category from a book. More than 20 years ago I had a personal session with an inspiring Color Me Beautiful consultant. She identified me as ‘Clear Spring’. But Clear Springs are assigned the dreaded black. The consultant sorted out about half the Clear Spring colours which were marvellous on me, and the others which were best avoided. A personal consultation using all the big colour swatches is definitely needed for that, and a gifted expert. (Though she did recommend coral as my accent colour. She appears in one of the CMB books as the example of Soft Autumn colouring.)

My previously auburn tinged dark hair has become light heathered grey. My skin is still warm toned, so I’m a mixture of warm and cool tones which doesn’t fit anyone’s categories. (And I have a very low opinion of the recent London published CMB books.)

I have now chosen paint chips which match my skin and eye tones, plus a lock of hair. They’re subtle colours which rarely appear in fabrics. But I always compare fabric samples with them, to check what ‘goes’ and what ‘jars’ (often surprises).

Shape :
Standing, my hips are 2 sizes larger than my top. When I sit down they spread another 4 inches. Definitely a pear. I’ve already gone on at length about the odd advice given to the pear-shaped in the Lucky Shopping Manual.

Most stylists tell the pear shaped to wear shoulder pads so their shoulders are as wide as their hips. I would be wearing those 80s pads that were so wide you had to go through a door sideways (see some astonishing examples in reruns of Murder She Wrote). I am more interested in advice on how to make my hips look as small as my top. And sorry stylists, I know you all say everyone looks better in shoulder pads, but I never wear them. They’re just not my style. Hurrah for sewing – we can change the shoulder seams and darts of what we make so that clothes fall well from our shoulders whatever shape they may be.

Most stylists also tell pears to wear horizontal lines across our shoulders. I’ve always known that was wrong for me, but never understood why until I read Trinny and Susannah’s Body Shapes Bible. I’m a short waisted pear. Horizontal upper lines make us look even more squat. Horizontal upper lines are good on long-waisted pears. And T and S couldn’t find any short waisted pear celebrities to use as encouraging examples (the only body shape they failed with). Oh dear. I don’t think it is actually impossible for us to look good, I’ve managed it myself in the past. But it’s certainly a challenge !

Some stylists go into more detail about body shape with recommendations for specific body parts : long and short neck, wide and narrow shoulders, etc. The trouble is this makes for incompatibilities in what they advise. ‘The Triumph of Individual Style’ is a beautiful book full of fascinating insights. But most of the advice they give on one page is incompatible with what they say for me on the next page. . . Nancy Nix-Rice ‘Looking Good’ is another favourite book (very dated illustrations but covers the widest range of topics). About me she says :
To Broaden Narrow/ Sloping Shoulders : DO Select details (…) to maintain a horizontal shoulder emphasis.
To Lengthen a Short-Waisted Body : DON’T use horizontal bodice details.
Aaargh – Help !

I do try out the suggestions in style books. Darlene Miller’s ‘Your shape, your clothes and you’ has very detailed ideas. As usual, I don’t fit neatly into her scheme (my head, upper and lower body all meet different criteria !), but I do find her suggestions interesting. I use a personal croquis. Snoop shopping upsets me, as RTW fits me so badly. Instead I hold pattern and fashion magazine photos next to me in the mirror, as I wonder if they would look good on me. And I keep an eagle eye out for what flatters and what doesn’t.

Style :
I rarely feel comfortable with any of the personal styles in books, though some come close. In David Kibbe’s ‘Metamorphosis’ I’m a ‘Soft Classic’. Lots of good insights in the text. Then there’s a photo of someone styled this way, and she’s wearing a ‘Mother-of-the Bride’ dress and picture hat. Oh dear. I would never want to look like that (even if I had been a mother-of-the-bride). From the other photos, I would guess Kibbe has difficulty with styling less exuberant people. I think Soft Classics are better catered for by Loes Hinse’s designs.

The lovely CMB consultant described me as a ‘Eurochic with Romantic accessories’, a heart warming phrase I still keep in mind. Eurochic is a concept you don’t see mentioned these days – a sort of elegant current casual. (It’s in Mary Spillane’s CMB book.) At the time Armani was super-fashionable. I don’t at all agree with one style book which says it’s impossible for casual to be chic, as one is precise and the other is don’t-care. That seems an oddly blinkered view. But that writer (Angela Marshall) is an extreme classic. She admits to having difficulty knowing what to wear at weekends. Though her expensive repetitive little book is the best at recognising personal style isn’t only clothes but also work, hobbies, manner, home, relationships. . . I think many designers and fashion magazines do recognise the need for high quality stylish relaxed clothes.

To identify my personal style, I notice what I wear consistently. I particularly enjoyed the style exercises in Brenda Kinsel’s ‘Fashion Makeover’. (The rest of the book isn’t right for me at all. No, I wouldn’t find it a treat to lounge by my pool waiting for a bevy of masseuses and chefs to give me an at home spa day. I won’t even have my hair and make-up done. But I did get insights from the style exercises !) I keep in mind long ago clothes which I remember with affection. (That velvet dress with a lace collar my mother made when I was 12, which I rapidly grew out of. Wouldn’t fit my active lifestyle, but I need touches of it as I loved it so much.) And I imagine myself wearing what appears in pattern and fashion magazines, and check if I would feel happy. I’ve made a list of ‘would love to wear’ patterns which have lasted beyond initial enthusiasm, and it’s not as short as I thought it would be.

- – -

I think the good style books guide personal exploration, rather than dictating. Such as Brenda Kinsel’s ‘Wardrobe Companion’. I also enjoy Garza and Lupo ‘Nothing to Wear’, a fun read. Mainly general encouragement, but then they fall in the trap of giving specific examples, which are all ‘urban cocktail’. Good for their clients in NYC no doubt, but not relevant to this suburb (even though estate agents describe us as ‘exciting and cosmopolitan’ now we have a Starbucks where the local radio host holds court ).

That seems to me a key problem for style books – this uneasy balance between general advice about exploring, which works for everyone, and specific examples. I know I feel more secure when writers give specific visual examples. I feel I know more clearly what they mean by their words. And I feel more confident when I know the alternatives to choose between. But I usually don’t recognise myself in any of the specific examples. So my desire for confidence that I understand the message actually backfires.

I think there are some things you can sort out for yourself fairly painlessly. My list of Personal Style questions is possible food for thought.

I do still occasionally buy styling books, but I’m looking for tips rather than expecting them to solve my problems. I now find it more helpful to follow discussions at Stitchers Guild, which are full of useful comment and inspirational wardrobes from a wide variety of real people. I’m getting much more clear about what is right for me, by thinking out my answers to the style questions people ask there.

This may be an unending process, as fashion styles (and we) change. I’m still far from being confident I’ll get it right every time, but I’m a lot closer than I was a year ago. . .

Sadly, there isn’t any way of avoiding doing the work of trying things out. Or of avoiding big mistakes – try to make them in cheap fabric ! I once bought a red fake fur coat. I love red, and fur coats, and I loved myself in the coat. But I only ever wore it in public once. I’m a quiet and private person !

This trying out doesn’t have to be a miserable process. It’s like fitting. We take one small step at a time, and see if we’ve made things better or worse – and it works out in the end. Every move in a better direction is a big plus

- – -

P.S. Training to be a Style Consultant is lengthy and expensive. There are even college textbooks on it (see Fairchild Books on Image Management). So people in the business reoognise this process isn’t all that easy.

- – -

Links available February 2010

Individuality is very subjective.

I love the little vest with the two massive flowers that was given to me by the group I affectionately term The Barker Set even though there are some who are not from Barker Rd.

I wore it last night to CG, and had two very different reactions.

L: Wah, so Ali Baba!

D: I like your vest. Very avant-garde.

HAHAHA. So contrasting indeed. But that’s how it is with fashion and individuality, I suppose. Not everyone is a fan of my personal style and my penchant for head pieces (or fascinators, as Eun calls them). I once got called Minnie Mouse to my face, but that hasn’t stopped me from donning all my head pieces in all their glory.

Picture taken from Yahoo! News

No surprise then that Sun’s outfit has been widely contested. I think its fine for the Grammy’s – have you seen some of the creations that walked down the red carpet?

Go google for Lady Gaga if you haven’t seen her astronomically bling dress.

The Before...

We live in a blank canvas world. Social conventions, notions of class, and even the dictates of fashion are becoming increasingly flexible. Such freedom can leave one floundering when it comes to communicating (or even defining) one’s identity. Who are we without structure? What happens when a society disconnects from its own history and traditions? 

We are becoming a surface people, all sound bites and profile pics, status updates and 140 character tweets. I’ve rebelled against this new framework from the start (although, I suppose you did just catch me blogging~wink). I’ve tried my best to dive down under the surface chaos – a life lived in ripples is a raw deal if you ask me – and explore the cool, still world under the waves. But, as you can see from the grim pic above, it’s bloody well time to come up for some air! 

There is a boon to all this surface talk. For the first in history, we have the unique opportunity to have our projections believed. If the world is so intent on taking us at face value, why not play the game? But on our terms. I’m not talking about plastic surgery and piles of makeup, but more about establishing a personal style that projects your strengths and ambitions. It’s about Focus.  

I invite you to join me in a 2010 personal style makeover. To tell you the truth, I’m actually quite nervous about this project. Will I have have the guts to follow it through? What about maintenance? Can I do it inexpensively? And, of course, the question all women ask themselves before embarking such journeys… Will it really make a difference? 

Let’s find out!

I just love Valentine’s Day! Everyone is especially inclined to be happy and loving, plus there are usually flowers and chocolates involved! Valentine’s Day is coming up and I have found some cute items in honor of the day! -J

1. Macaroons $28 for 12. 2. Tory Burch Heart Sandal $195. 3. Tiffany Heart earrings $1,950. 4. Fred Flare Heart sunglasses $11. 5. John Derian Arrow tray $80. 6. Kate’s Paperie mini suitcases $10-15.

i just realized how sappy my recent posts have been, time to lighten up the mood. let’s see make up brights? i think so!

I don’t want to get married for a while. I don’t think I’ll be able to do what I want for myself if I’m attached…and when it’s right you shouldn’t feel attached. Right? I’m a little embarrassed to admit, but since we’ve magically been getting cable channels I’ve been getting sucked in to all of the wedding movies on TV lately (guess that means it’s February). It was to my surprise and delight when I was at work, in the midst of this unintentional marathon, and  realized that I was wearing “Something old, something new, something borrowed and something blue,” several in each category in fact. Let’s start from the bottom.

Hypocrite Opportunist

Shoes: vintage Salvatore Ferragamo’s (from Bellwether) — old and blue
Slacks: Banana Republic sidewalk sale circa 2003 — old
Belt: vintage Gucci from AK — old and borrowed (gifted)
Tank: Rodarde for Target — new
Cardigan: Thakoon for Target — blue
Bracelet: M Collection Qatar — blue and borrowed (gifted)
Earrings: multiple silver hoops found at the YMCA — borrowed!
Necklace: apple charm from the Colette capsule collection for GAP NYC —  blue
While looking through all the new bridal collection’s we’ve been getting (since there is an obvious theme here) I found a look from Lanvin that almost perfectly captures my attitude towards marriage right now.

A bully in a china shop

Actually I would feel good getting married tomorrow if I wore this. Now to find the Best man?

These great bags were at the gift show in the Accent on Design section. We met the designer and owner (she’s so nice and gracious too!). The styles are chic and functional and the patterns fun and sophisticated at great price prices. Oh, and the interiors of the bags are just as pretty as the outside. Below are two of my faves. -J

Excuse the grossness, the rain does awful things to me! Very hard to prep when you’re freezing your bum off and your tights are too big. TRUTH.

Top- Urban Outfitters
Brooch- used to be a hair clip, I attached a sweater clip thing too
Skirt- Urban Outfitters
Tights- Penneys
Socks- M&S

[While everyone is fabulous in their own right, we thought we should celebrate the campus fashionistas of the world for their continued excellence in not looking like a hot mess for class. So, we started stalking those girls on campus (like Taylor at Ryerson!) to get a few pics and get some tips on their personal style.

And maybe a restraining order or two.

But it’s worth it to highlight fresh, unique wardrobe choices that show personality and the courage to wear what you believe in.]

I actually met Kayla when we were about 8 years old in ballet class. We became fast friends and continued to be so through high school and now university. Kayla and I also happen to work together on campus, share an office and work side-by-side for 35 hours every week in the summer months. We see A LOT of each other, which is great, because I love her. It also means I am constantly a witness of her wicked style.

I consider myself to be somewhat of a fashionista (as voted in my high school yearbook – fist pump!), and let me tell you, Kayla is one of the most fashion-conscious girls on Lakehead’s campus. My favorite thing about her style is her willingness to take risks:

White jeans in the winter? Yup, Kayla does it.
Super high, super bright heels to work? Mmmmhmmm, she works it.

Kayla wears clothing and accessories that I could never dream of and she pulls them off with confidence! She also has a knack for pulling random things together, like active wear and casual wear. Somehow Kayla manages to pull off pairing Lululemon athletic tops with designer accessories. It is truly mind-blowing.

I totally admire her style and have to admit, it’s nice to have such a stylish co-worker and friend. I can say that, without a doubt, the Orientation Office is the most stylish on campus.

Name: Kayla
Year: 3rd
Major: Molecular Biology

1) Describe your personal style.
Preppy meets Southern cowgirl. I try to ensure that my day-to-day clothing choice is flexible for my active lifestyle, yet presents itself in a unique way. Similar to my music choice, I like all colors and pretty much all fashion styles. One secret, though: sometimes I dress for the day based on my hair. Bad hair day = try-hard fashion!

2) You can’t leave your house without….
My brown leather boots from New Zealand.

3) What is your favorite store to shop at?
Probably American Eagle.

4) Who or what is the biggest influence on your style?
Myself. I don’t really try to follow what is “in style.” I like looking at some store websites to see how the models wear the clothes and mix and match, but for the most part, I’m the fashionista.

5) What is your favorite trend, past or present
[This is] obviously from the past: Bright stretchy clothes!

On Kayla:
Necklace: American Eagle
Dark blue sweater: American Eagle
Plaid long shirt: Just Jeans (NZ)
White Jeans: American Eagle
White tanktop: Lululemon
Belt: Jacob
Boots: Aldo

[You know someone who's got great style? Think the world needs to see what she can do?  Send us an email with some photos and she could be the next fashionista celebrated right here.]

I figured what better way to start off a blog about men’s style then to do the first official post (becuase I don’t think of an intro as much more than that… an intro) about personal style and what is currently inspiring me. Below is a collage of some of my favorite things right now with a gallery of images below with all from the collage as well as a few that didn’t make it in (becuase it’s hard to make these things despite the way it may look! Haha).

Right now, I know he’s hyped, but there is something about him that I find very inspirational in his photographs, I really like Baptiste Giabiconi. As evident by the fact he is central in the collage. I’m also in love with the belted trend right now; belts over coats and blazers, this guy who is tucking his leather jacket into his jeans and belting it, that canvas suit that looks like denim with the double brown belt, gah there is just too much.

From the pictures I’m sure you can also tell my flare of glasses I currently like. I’m a self-diagnosed sunglasses whore and I don’t feel bad about it, these in the top right corner are the new Balmain Oliver Peoples and I really need them right now… not kidding. Anywho, that’s my little rant, enjoy!
-Andrew J.

I heart Uniqlo! I almost spent over 1000HKD on Uniqlo items when I was on holiday in Hong Kong and Seoul.

All clothes are from UNIQLO

UK singer/songwriter and F.O.K. (that’s “Friend of Kanye”) Mr. Hudson isn’t exactly a new artist, although he’s just now finding an audience Stateside thanks to some famous friends.  Prior to going solo, Mr. Hudson (first name: Ben) performed for years alongside his band The Library, who were just as quirky and enjoyably dorky as their name would suggest.  And while his bleached blonde hair has survived longer than his band mates, Mr. H also shed the baggy trousers and the Andre 3000-meets-Newsies style that defined his earlier wardrobe, opting instead for a more streamlined, minimalist look of understated, sleek solids.  And his sartorial transformation has paid off: he’s appeared in Italian Vogue and was featured in a GQ spread in September 2009 modeling some of fall’s best cardigans.  And he’s got the full thrust of the blogosphere behind him as a regular on such widely-read style blogs as Hypebeast and High Snobiety.  His music itself has been given a similar upgrade, keeping the confessional lyrics but accenting them with electro flourishes rather than a steel pan.  With a resume that already includes supporting The Police in concert, guesting on a Jay-Z album, performing at Glastonbury and scoring a #2 UK single, it’s clear Mr. Hudson’s hair won’t be his only highlights, but we’ll have to wait to see if 2010 can make this talented artist and budding style icon into an international phenomenon worthy of an all-caps post on Kanye’s blog.  See some more photos of Mr. H (including one that you heritage nerds will appreciate) and the video for “Supernova” below.

well maybe this look complies with gravity (hence its sleek nature) but it sure enough defies my mother’s policy on my hair. to her i had “virgin hair”, long, unprocessed, natural color, strictly blow outs and flat irons until the 9th grade. well, i got scissor happy and now i cannot wait until December 16, 2010 when all of my lovely locks come falling down and i’m left with this darling cut inspired by model, Tao Okamoto. Remember the name!

Apologies for the lack of updates and also the weirdness in getting on here, problems with domain transfers and all that jazz, unimpressed! College is boring me to death apart from my delightful elective which I find myself researching in my own time without being asked to, a definite first for me in my UCD history…

Ballet was super hard tonight, hence the sweaty looking face and overall sad-panda demeanor. High fives for effort in half-editing photos, fake eye colours FTW.

Shirt- Sisters
Dress- London
Belt- off River Island Dresss
Tights- Penneys
Brooch- Etsy
Watch Casio @ UO

ps waiting for possibly exciting phone calls is THE WORST