Do you remember Dennis’ House of Vintage? It was that cool shop at Queen & Portland with an very nice collection of high-end vintage clothing. You know, stuff like Pierre Balmain shirt dresses, Pierre Cardin shifts and Yves Saint Laurent silk shirts? The whole place had a Rive Gauche in the ’60s and ’70s feel. I liked it a lot.

Do you remember how when they closed in June of ’08, that they promised to reopen in a new location in about eight months? And then the space sat empty until like a month ago when the Oh Boy! burger opened in its stead?

Well Dennis’ has been reborn in Parkdale! Now located at 1239 Queen St. W., it still has lots of fantastic finds. The price tag’s are a little pricey for my current budget, but compared to a haute boutique like the Paper Bag Princess, they are practically a steal!

Queen St. has seen more than its share of shop closures, so it’s heart warming to see a retailer rise from the ashes. Why my Grinch heart grew three sizes when I saw it.

Image of the old House of Vintage location via Blogto.

On his way to Venice, leaving from airport Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle, 87 years old French fashion designers Pierre Cardin accused pains and was immediately hospitalized, according to airport sources.

Pierre Cardin was in the boarding room when he started feeling sick. He was transported by a private ambulance to an American hospital in Neuilly-sur-Seine, near Paris.

In May, Cardin was hospitalized two days in Marseille, after a power failure. Five days before he was hospitalized for a double fracture of the scapula after he felt from a ladder.

Pierre Cardin, who opened the doors of his fashion house in 1949, remains the head of an empire with an estimated turnover of 6 billion, of which however began to separate.

In 2008 he occupied position 71 in a top of the largest fortunes in France, with 500 million euros, according to Challenges magazine’s annual ranking.

A mediados del siglo XIX nace lo que conocemos como alta costura gracias a Charles Frederick Worth (octubre 13, 1826 – marzo 10, 1895) que fue el que creó la figura del “diseñador de moda”.

En 1892 nació lo que podemos considerar la biblia de la moda: la revista Vogue. Fue fundada en Estados Unidos en 1892 por Arthur Baldwin Turnure. Esta revista de moda y estilos de vida, considerada la más influyente a nivel mundial, hoy se edita en más de veinte países. En España está desde los años ochenta y desde 2001 está disponible su versión online, con contenidos propios.

En los años 1960s un grupo de jóvenes diseñadores, aprendices de couturiers como Dior o Balenciaga, dejaron las casas de moda para las que trabajaban y abrieron sus propios establecimientos. Los más exitosos de esos jóvenes diseñadores fueron Yves Saint Laurent,Pierre Cardin, André Courrèges y Emanuel Ungaro.

Lacroix es quizás la casa de moda más exitosa de entre las que abrieron a finales del siglo XX.

En los años 1960s ocurrió un revuelo en contra de los estándares de la moda por artistas de rock y hippies, así como una internacionalización de la moda.

En 1990 aparece la primera cámara fotográfica digital. Esto supuso un giro radical en la elaboración de books, portadas, carteles, etc.

Jean-Paul Gaultier (24 de Abril de 1952) é um estilista francês, que começou, em 1970, como assistente de Pierre Cardin. A sua primeira colecção com estilo irreverente foi lançada, em 1981.

Gaultier promoveu o uso de saias para homens e modelos pouco convencionais (homens idosos, mulheres gordas, modelos tatuadas e com piercings), o que lhe trouxe muita popularidade.

Gaultier criou também o figurino de muitos filmes: “O quinto elemento” de Luc Besson; “Kika” de Pedro Almodóvar; “The Cook the Thief His Wife & Her Lover” de Peter Greenaway…

I was reading up on this week’s auction of the contents of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé’s country home. I was even gonna make a post about it so I was looking for images to illustrate my meanderings.

Anyway, Google Image Search reminded me that the Saint Laurent logo graces cigarettes in Europe. Not only can you get YSL’s you can get Cartier cigarettes as well. I know smoking is not good, but it looks cool.

Did you know that at some point Pierre Cardin, Givenchy, Versace and Christian Lacroix have leant their name to ciggies?

I am telling you because I feel the need to justify the time I spent in the rabbit hole of typing “designer name” + “Cigarettes” into Google Search

Image via A 先生 at Flickr.

Presenting the outstanding photographs and furniture of Italian-born bon vivant Willy Rizzo, premiere nominee for the 2009 Excellent People Awards for Outstanding Acheivement in Excellency, Design Division. Excellent Willy Rizzo exhibition currently on view at Mallett, Antique Dealers of Distinction in London and New York, sponsored by Mallet and Paul Smith, also Excellent in his own right. Nomination submission by an anonymous reader of The Excellent People, discreetly, at TheExcellentPeople@gmail.com.

The Excellent Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Cardin, 1965, Paris, as photographed by Willy Rizzo. "I invited them to my studio without making them aware of each other's presence, as they were not then on very friendly terms. They mellowed later."

Christian Dior, 1949, Atelier Dior. "The revolution of the New Look in fashion. Christian Dior lengthened skirts; scandalous. This photo became famous everywhere." An indisputably Outstanding Achievement in Excellency.

Salvidor Dali, 1950. "When I arrived at his place, I searched the apartment to find the best angle for the shot, but his face was so spectacular that when he asked me 'What are we going to do?' I picked up the magnifying glass from the desk and just photographed him." Very Excellent close-up.

More Excellency photographed by Willy Rizzo, various years.

Circular revolving coffee table. Cloudy brown lacquer with brass basin designed by Willy Rizzo. Height: 13 in (34cm). Depth: 45 in (115cm). This table is found in a number of colors and in steel. Excellent options.

Decor by Willy Rizzo.

Additional decor by Willy Rizzo.

The Excellent game of backgammon. Tric trac table by Willy Rizzo. Game table with reversible top and drawer. The board in leather. The reversible top framed in steel and brass. Height: 30 in (76cm). Width: 33in (85cm). Depth: 33in. (85cm). All previous Excellent images via the Mallett Willy Rixxo exhibition catalogue. To view, copy and paste http://viewer.zmags.co.uk/publication/1c0d4223#/1c0d4223/1

]]> http://bonartactualitat.wordpress.com/2009/10/21/historia-cultura-i-art-al-salo-drassanes/ Wed, 21 Oct 2009 16:05:24 +0000 bonartactualitat http://bonartactualitat.wordpress.com/2009/10/21/historia-cultura-i-art-al-salo-drassanes/

El XVIII Saló d’Art i Antiguitats de les  Drassanes Reials de Barcelona reuneix, des del dissabte 17 fins al diumenge 25 d’octubre, més de 10.500 selectes obres de 35 expositors del màxim prestigi en el context català, espanyol i d’altres països. El fascinant recorregut per la història, la cultura  i l’art que proposa aquesta cita de referència inclou treballs de Picasso, Dalí, Warhol, Miró, Tàpies, Botero, Barceló, Basquiat, Plensa, Rusiñol, Casas, Sorolla,  Chillida, Zao Wou Ki o avantguardistes dissenys del cèlebre i polifacètic Pierre Cardin.

Els 2.000 metres quadrats habilitats en el marc de les naus gòtiques de la Sala Marquès de Comillas, joia de l’art civil medieval català i segell inconfusible del Saló, tornant a concentrar impactants peces i obres de totes les tendències artístiques i diferents segments de preus en un esdeveniment ineludible per a professionals i pel públic apassionat per les obres d’art clàssiques i contemporànies o l’arqueologia grega, romana, egípcia i asiàtica. 

El recorregut acull, amb una posada en escena d’alt nivell, des de ceràmiques de 6.000 anys de la civilització de la vall de l’Indo fins a un relleu de Babilònia (del 1.125-1103 a.C) amb personatges mitològics i escriptura amb el nom del rei Nabucodonosor (dels quals només existeixen tres exemplars en el món), una estela en pedra de l’antic Regne de Saba del segle II a.C, valuoses escultures realitzades en temps de l’Imperi Romà o terracotes xineses imperials.

La impactant col·lecció de figures estil Obamba de la tribu Kota de Gabon de finals del XIX (mai abans mostrada en el nostre país), una singular selecció de joies franceses del període de Napoleó III, obres de Pop Art, una parella de consoles i una taula de la col·lecció Environement dissenyades por Pierre Cardin el 1978 i el 1980 (una d’elles amb una làmpada en arc italiana, Futura Z, del dissenyador Flaet de 1973), la esplèndida escultura La Valkyrie de Louis Chalon (1898-1911)  o mobiliari del barroc català s’inclouen també en l’ampli catàleg de la convocatòria d’enguany.  

La mítica serigrafia Campell’ soup de 1962 amb la que Andy Warhol va protagonitzar la seva primera exposició individual com artista professional , una espectacular figura de marfil alemany del déu Cronos de principis del XIX, suggeridors i celebrats gravats japonesos, una destacada representació pictòrica de l’emblemàtica Escola de Paris, una cotitzada composició de Joan Miró dedicada a Patricia Matisse el 1964 conviuen amb una pintura mural precolombina del 350-650 d.C, ushabtis egipcis del 600 a.C. i característiques creacions de Picasso, Dalí, Barceló, Plensa, Botero, Tàpies, Rusiñol, Casas o Mir.

El dijous dia 22 tindrà lloc, de 19,00 a 22,00 hores, a la Sala Marquès de Comillas el tradicional còctel Drassanes by night amb la presència d’una una destacada representació del món cultural, institucional o empresarial.  Com a preàmbul, la Sala d’Actes acollirà la presentació del llibre Mots de foc de l’escriptora mexicana Laura Fernández MacGregor Maza, distingida aquest any per l’Agrupació Professional d’Antiquaris per la seva aportació a la cultura. Els representants dels mitjans de comunicació hi son convidats.

El diumenge dia 25 es sortejarà entre els compradors del Saló  un collaret d’essència tribal de la suggeridora col·lecció Joies del Passat: Art i Seducció presentada en exclusiva per una de les galeries de referència pel que fa a l’art africà: Raquel & Guilhem Montagut i realitzada a partir de perles i pedres de gran antiguitat procedents d’Àfrica, Àsia i Amèrica del Sud.

For the english translation of this post, please press here

La idea del uso de las botas cómo una pieza fundamental del armario femenino fue algo revolucionario en su época.

Antes de la introducción de las go-go boots, las mujeres sólo usaban botas durante las inclemencias del tiempo, actividades forzosas o paseos a caballo, pero no como zapatos de la calle.

Este nuevo estilo de calzado fue diseñado para complementar un look más nuevo y moderno: las minifaldas.

Las “Go-go boots” llaman la atención sobre las piernas, acentúan la simple silueta de línea A y también ofrecen una cierta cobertura modesta para las menos atrevidas pero estilosas mujeres.

André Courrèges es a menudo citado como el iniciador de la moda de las botas a go-go : un calzado de tacón bajo, cubriendo toda la pantorrilla, de plástico blanco y con una puntura superior abierta  fue presentada como parte de la “Moon Girl” look apareciendo en su colección de otoño 1964.

Las tendencias de la moda fueron progresando y los pantalones de mujer y maxi-faldas, que sólo dejabar ver los pies, las piernas eran de menor importancia

A comienzo de  los años setenta, las “go-go boots” se conocen simplemente cómo botas, y el énfasis pasó a la altura del tacón y el desarrollo de la plataforma.

Los fabricantes comenzaron a producir en masa los knock-offs de las pasarelas en colores y materiales contemporáneos.

El single número 1 de Nancy Sinatra en 1966 “These Boots Are Made for Walking” ayudó a popularizar las “go-go boots” y las botas “Spage Age”  de estilo futurista usadas por Jane Fonda en 1968 en el film de ciencia ficción Barbarella, éstas fueron un claro guiño a su pasado erótico.

Esta fuerte tendencia se hizo extremadamente popular entre los adolescentes que podían ser vistos usando estas botas tanto en la calle cómo en los programas de televisión.

Go-go Boots vs. Kinky Boots

Las “Go-go boots” comparten un poco de historia con “las botas kinky” de Reino Unido, unas botas de cuero negro sobre la rodilla con tacones de 3-4 cm y en punta. El término “kinky boots” se refiere al estilo Dominatrix  y el fetiche, aluden a la percepción de que las mujeres con botas son poderosas (es decir, como una dominatrix.)

Las Botas Kinky irrumpieron en la moda del Reino Unido a principios de los sesenta y fueron vistas en Honor Blackman y Diana Rigg en la serie original de televisión “Los Vengadores” .

YSL Model (France, 1969), Model (France,1970), Londoners (UK, 1968)

Pierre Cardin - France (1967)

Brigitte Bardot (France, 1969/70)

Thigh-length boots

Las “Thigh-lenght Boots”, también conocido como botas botas altas, o simplemente botas hasta el muslo, son las botas que se extienden por encima de las rodillas. Otros sinónimos son “over-the-knee”, y cuando tienen una solapa extra doblada en la parte de arrida, botas de pirata.

Las longitudes varían de llegar a algo más de la rodilla hasta llegar casi a la entrepierna (llamadas “crotch boots”).

Como todas las botas, las “thigh-boots” son hechas de materiales materiales ” diferentes que van desde varios cueros, a los diversos materiales sintéticos (de vinilo, de poliuretano o látex), hasta los tejidos más distintos (seda, microfibra de poliéster). Muchas están hechas con cierre/cremallera para facilitar la entrada de la pierna, mientras que otras son elásticas.

La altura y el estilo del tacón varía, pero la mayoría se vende con tacones de más de tres pulgadas (7,5 cm).

Las “Thigh-Boots” son consideradas por muchos como algo erótico o “kinky”, suelen ser un elemento fetiche dentro del mundo fetichista de la ropa y el calzado, siendo frecuentemente asociadas con el sadomasoquismo. A menudo usadas por las prostitutas y dominatrices profesional, por lo que muchas personas las consideran íconos de estas industrias.

Sin embargo con frecuencia son vendidas por los diseñadores de alta costura, tal vez por el erotismo implícito y la asociación a la percepción de poder que tienen este tipo de botas.

¿Quizás sea por todo esto que están de vuelta y tan a la moda?

The idea of a woman’s mainstream fashion boot was revolutionary.

Before the introduction of go-go boots, women’s boots were generally worn during only inclement weather, rugged activities, or horseback riding, but not as street shoes.

This new style of footwear was designed to complement the shorter hemlines of the new and modern look.

Go-go boots drew attention to the legs, accentuated the simple A-line silhouettes but also offered some modest coverage for the less daring but fashion-minded women.

André Courrèges is often cited as the originator of the fashion go-go boot: a low-heeled, calf-high boot made of white plastic with a clear cut-out slot near the top was featured as part of the “Moon Girl” look featured in his Fall 1964 collection.

Fashion trends progressed and as women’s trousers and maxi-length skirts only showed the foot were replaced for the re-emphasized of the legs by this new concept.

By the early seventies, go-go boots were referred to simply as boots, and the emphasis shifted to the height of the heel and the development of the platform.

Manufacturers began mass-producing runway knock-offs in contemporary colors and materials.

Nancy Sinatra’s 1966 number-one pop hit “These Boots Are Made for Walking” helped popularize go-go boots, and the Space Age boots worn by Jane Fonda in 1968’s science fiction film Barbarella were a nod to their erotic past.

Nancy Sinatra had a transatlantic number-one pop hit in 1966 with “These Boots Are Made for Walkin’”, which showcased her provocative but good-natured style, and which popularized and made her synonymous with go-go boots.

These knock-offs were extremely popular with teenagers, who could be seen wearing go-go boots on both the street and television dance shows.

Go-go boots share some history with the UK’s “kinky boots”, a style of calf- to knee-length pull-on black leather boots with 3-4 inch heels and pointed toes. The term “kinky boots” referred to the style’s Dominatrix and fetish origin and alludes to the perception that women in boots are powerful (i.e. like a Dominatrix.) Kinky boots broke into mainstream UK fashion in the early sixties and were seen on Honor Blackman and Diana Rigg in the original “Avengers” television series.

Thigh-length boots, known also as thigh-high boots or simply thigh boots, are boots that extend above the knees. Other synonyms include over-the-knee boots, and especially when cuffed, pirate boots. Lengths vary from reaching just over the knee to reaching almost to the crotch (called crotch boots).

Like all boots, thigh boots are made of different materials ranging from various leathers, to various synthetic materials (vinyl, polyurethane, or latex), to various fabrics (silk, polyester microfiber). Many are constructed with zippers for ease of entry, but some are constructed as pull-on boots. Heel heights vary, but the majority are sold with heels greater than three inches (7.5 cm). Heel styles vary from metal spikes to chunky.

Thigh boots are considered by many to be erotic or kinky.

They are used as fetish clothing in boot fetishism and shoe fetishism and are frequently associated with sadomasochism. Often worn by prostitutes and professional dominatrices, so many people consider them icons of such trades.

Nevertheless, they are frequently sold by couture designers, perhaps because of the implied eroticism and the association to the perception of power that this boots have.

Perhaps it is by this that they are back and so strong this season?

Luxury Retailer Notes That Stabilized Sales, Huge Growth In Greater China Have Fueled Asia Expansion

Italian fashion company Valentino is looking to expand quickly in Asia, with a focus on China & Hong Kong

Most global fashion houses have, over the years, worked hard to make something of a foothold in the Chinese market. As we’ve written before, one of the first major Western fashion companies to enter China following the “reform and opening” policy of the late 1970s was Pierre Cardin, who began selling in China in 1979. Since then, major fashion boutiques from around the world can be found in China’s largest cities, and some have progressed into smaller (but still large by most standards) second- and third-tier cities throughout the country. Despite major setbacks for some retailers in formerly reliable markets like Japan — where companies like French Connection and Versace have recently closed down operations — and a drop in demand in the American market (although that has, according to reports today, stabilized for many luxury companies), the surge in demand for certain designers in the Chinese mainland should soften the blow in revenue that these companies are experiencing as a result of the global economic downturn.

The Valentino Fashion Group — which includes the Valentino, Hugo Boss, and Marlboro labels, today announced that the company has benefitted from the quick rise in consumer demand throughout China. From Bloomberg:

Revenue in China and Hong Kong jumped 40 percent in the past month, and the company expects that pace to continue, Sassi said backstage after the show…

Although sales in Japan were described today by Valentino’s CEO as “not that bad,” the company’s major focus is store expansion in mainland China, Hong Kong, and Southeast Asian markets like Singapore:

[Valentino CEO Stefano Sassi] said the group is opening Valentino stores in Asia — Singapore, China and Japan. “These are not great times to open shops, but we are going ahead with what needs to be done.”

Acquisition Of High-Profile Western Brands By Chinese Companies Gives Chinese Designers And Brands Broader Distribution Base

Pierre Cardin was recently acquired by a Chinese fashion company, boosting the popular brand's reach in the China market. Photo (c) CRI English

In the wake of the global economic crisis, several Chinese companies have gone on global shopping sprees, spurred by the one-two punch of a drop in luxury consumption in developed markets and a motivation to control the sale of high-profit luxury goods inside the Chinese mainland. Although China, as the world’s most populous nation, has a massive consumer base, much of that base remains far below the income level of regular luxury consumers, meaning domestic companies often experience a difficult conundrum — if they want to tap into the wallets of China’s 1.3 billion consumers, they generally have only two real choices – toss brand equity aside and focus on the lowest-price-point consumer or bring a foreign brand with much higher brand equity to China and target the emerging middle class and wealthy consumers. As a result, the transition from local to global (or maybe more accurately, glocal), seems natural. In the capitalism-on-speed world of China’s major metropolitan areas, either you go global or you’re crushed by your competitors.

This week, the subject of Chinese companies purchasing established western fashion brands was raised in a Reuters article (via Canada’s Financial Post), which focused on the delicate balance some major Chinese companies are dealing with at the moment — whether to try to purchase distressed foreign brands to sell in the brands’ existing established markets or simply to buy the brands then control them as they please within the Chinese market. There is no guarantee that consumers in developed markets will bounce back from the recession to spend as freely on luxury goods and haute couture as they once did, but at the same time the majority of Chinese consumers are not in the market for these goods. Additionally, Chinese fashion companies may not yet have the management experience necessary to oversee a western brand (or its employees) in its usual markets, so time will probably be necessary for Chinese companies to work out the kinks that would emerge down the road if they were to focus too strongly on overseas markets.

According to some sources — such as the exporter interviewed in the Reuters article — Chinese companies shopping for western fashion brands would be better off counting on the continued growth of the Chinese middle class, as this area should see sustained growth that may outpace the rebound of the consumer in developed countries.

After decades of Made-in-China garments, China’s fashion industry is keen to move on from being just a mass manufacturer of clothes. It now wants to own western brands and to sell them to China’s 1.3 billion consumers.

The right to sell brands of several international fashion labels locally, such as Aquascutum and Pierre Cardin, have been recently acquired by Chinese clothes makers and sellers.

…

“It is a good time for Chinese firms to buy prestigious and well-established brands overseas and to introduce the brand back to the mainland China market, instead of building their own brands which is too time-consuming,” Chan told Reuters.

“Mainland China customers are gaining more and more sense of global prestigious brands as the economy opens up,” she said.

…

This stimulus has helped sustain the rise in incomes of Chinese shoppers, who are increasingly viewed as a rich seam of profit for luxury and fashion brands.

Bruce Rockowitz, president of global consumer goods exporter Li & Fung, suggested that cash-rich Chinese enterprises should focus more on acquisition opportunities in domestic markets rather than on buying and managing western brands outside the home market.

“I think most Chinese companies don’t have a strong enough management and setup yet to oversee these sort of American companies. There is a huge cultural difference, huge mentality difference,” said Rockowitz. Li & Fung’s customers include U.S. retail giants Wal-Mart and Target.

“If I was Chinese, I would look at all the opportunities in China. And I would take western brands and bring them in to China and not the other way around.”

i spy with my little eye something beginning with s...

s is for scarf: nine to five vintage glamour pinkmilkvintage scarf

u is for umbrella: cream and embroidered by DJVV

n is for well n: vintage typography signage by junkculture

d is for design: vintage design70s Pierre Cardin  Bar by fabulousmess

a is for anorak: but with a twist thelittleanorak vintage bangle

y is for yellow: Panton yellow button tufted sofa by thevintagesupplyco

and that makes it sunday on etsy.

Graffiti C215. Paris.

C’est ce soir le vernissage de l’expo de C215 à la galerie Pierre Cardin  et les organisateurs ont eu la gentillesse de m’inviter. Les princesses et le graffiti c’est un cycle d’expositions, cycle parrainé par Pierre Cardin et pour cette première exposition qui se déroule du 14 septembre au 10 octobre c’est Clotilde Courau, Princesse de Venise et talentueuse actrice qui présente C215.

J’ai déja au l”occasion sur ce blog de vous parler de C215   (j’y avais même inséré une vidéo)alors juste un petit rappel: C215 est un artiste français qui voyage de part le monde pour y laisser son empreinte artistique sur les murs, sur les poubelles, les vieilles portes et ceci bien sûr sans autorisation. Sinon ce n’est pas du jeu comme disent les enfants.

C215 peint des sans abris, des visages des personnes cassées par le systhème capitaliste. des animaux aussi. 

Rien n’est peint au hasard, C215 réalise avant ses pochoirs en fonction du lieu à investir et en fonction du revêtement. Parfois le résultat est repoussant un peu comme le graffiti que j’avais photographié dans les rue de Paris mais après tout, l’art ne doit pas être toujours séduisant.

C215. Casablanca.

L’art ce n’est pas du marketting.

Les princesses et le graffiti: C215.

Galerie Pierre Cardin

3 rue Duras. Paris 8.

Graffiti C215 Paris.

Vernissage: Emmanuel de Brantes, Emmanuel de Savoie, l’artiste C215. 

Amados, li esse artigo e não consegui não postá-lo pra vocês, adoradores de moda tem curiosidades para saber o que está por traz de tanta criatividade. Como já aprendemos em sala de aula, a criação não é dom: todos podem criar. Porém, para tal, temos que buscar informações que nos agreguem conhecimentos e desenvolva nossa iquietação para criarmos o novo!

Muitos estilistas foram buscar na arte a inspiração para suas coleções. Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Chloè, Louis Vuitton , MiuMiu e Anna Sui,foram algumas das mais influentes no circuito internacional.

A moda e as artes plásticas sempre pintaram no mesmo tom. Vestuário e o fenômeno da moda numa perspectiva artística: Op Art X Pop Art

A estilista inglesa Vivienne Westwood, se inspira em estudos da história da arte antiga para começar seu processo de criação. Como disse em entrevista coletiva, a estilista gosta de ver imagens do cenário artístico como a arte japonesa e a romana, que são suas prediletas, para elaborar o conceito das suas coleções. Do ponto de vista mais prático, é sempre bom ter um quadro de referências de arte, imagens passadas, atuais e até de coisas cotidianas, para que você possa elaborar um ponto inicial para a sua coleção.O estilista Marc Jacobs, em seu documentário Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton, dirigido por Loic Prigent, pesquisa os materiais que vão ser usados na próxima coleção em visitas que faz a ateliês de artistas plásticos e mantém em seu escritório um enorme quadro visual de fotos e imagens para seguir o caminho do tema da sua coleção. O passado sempre foi um bom amigo da criação e usado também por outras vertentes criativas.

OS ANOS POP - A maioria das influências para este verão vem da arte Pop. A arte Pop surgiu nos Estados Unidos nos anos 1960 como expressão artística de enorme repercussão internacional, deslocando o eixo da cultura moderna de Paris para Nova York.

A proposta deste movimento era registrar com ironia a visão do dia-a-dia das cidades americanas e da sociedade de consumo, tentando romper as barreiras entre a arte e a vida comum, como o retrato de uma geração que aceitava o processo de produção em massa. Esse movimento artístico não convencional, liderado por Victor Vasarely e Bridget Riley tornou-se popular na América e na Europa na década de 60. Os elementos iconográficos constituintes da Pop Art provinham essencialmente da televisão, da fotografia, da banda desenhada, do cinema e da Publicidade.

OP ART (Optical art)  - Outra manifestação de arte que influencia a moda da estação é o Op Art. Movimento artístico que surgiu nos anos 1920. Os círculos, espirais e quadrados são dispostos de forma a criar ilusão de ótica nos contrastes das cores preta e branca. Foi Victor Vasarely na exposição Le Mouvement, em 1955, em Paris, quem deu reputação de arte a essa manifestação gráfica.

As estampas óticas entraram na moda como padronagem dos tecidos nos anos 1960, quando o confeccionista americano Larry Aldrich encomendou ao desenhista têxtil Julian Tomchin uma coleção de estamparia inspirada nas pinturas Op da inglesa Bridget Riley. Pierre Cardin mostra uma coleção conceitual com looks inspirado no Op Art, na na última semana de moda em Paris. BIRÔ BRAZIL .

Fonte: www.comunidademoda.com.br

Amados,espero que tenham gostado!

Naiara-Equipe de Moda

Semalam aku g shopping kat Ikano dan The Curve.  Original plan nk teman cousin and aunty aku pi beli glass cabinet kat Ikea je.  Then bila da jalan dan da tgk the 4 letter word “S A L E” merata…apa lagi…..shopping la!  At first….aku beli t-shirt dari Giordano sempena Merdeka.  Sila lihat gamba di bawah….betapa patriotik nya aku!  Hehe….for your info, krusi tue pon baru gaks….dari Ikea gaks…dibeli hari semalamnya. 

Ok…so lepas da beli baju tue, KC pon dtg jumpa aku kat The Curve and we went to Ikea to buy my aunty’s glass cabinet kat Ikea.  Lepas da beli, diorg pon chow pi umah makcik aku.  Aku ngn KC pon ronda lagi la.  First2 kita pergi ke All IT Hypermarket kat tingkat atas sekali kat Ikano.  Tempat tue dulu foodcourt.  Kat situ, aku telah membeli an LCD Screen Cleaning Kit dan blank DVD-Rs.  DVD ni patut ada 25 je tapi ada discount so ada 27 keping.  Not bad la.  Aku ada beli gaks external DVD Drive utk cousin aku so my bill came to lebih RM200 so qualify utk jadi member.  Dapatlah kad lagi satu.  Ntah da brapa banyak kad member la aku ada….hari tue bila beli sandal Hush Puppies jadi member gaks.  Next time have to buy a wallet which has more compartments for cards.

After da shopping kat c2, gie Popular laks. KC pulak bershopping nya. Yang penting, dia beli mouse Doraemon yang dia telah lama idamkan.  Dia nya yg warna biru gelap….doraemon tgh tdo tue.  Siap kitorg testing dulu, make sure it’s working.

Pas popular we went to Borders kat the Curve plak. Tgk tgk kat situ ada plak buku yg on special price. KC spotted 2 books yang akhirnya telah aku beli, satunya namadia Tabletop Bowling.  Siap ada set bowling kat dlm lagi and a handbook on all the features of bowling.  Menariks and tidak mahal….hanya RM17.90 coz ada discount.  Kalau aku dapat mengajar bowling lagi…boleh la aku gunakan set ni.  Haha!  The other book was THE SPORTS BOOK.  Actually buku ni aku pernah tgk dulu.  Masa tue pon nak beli da tapi mahal.  Kali ni, on sale plak.  Dia nya depan da cm komot2 skit la and the pages ada yg x perfect sgt tapi xpela…janji murah.  Bak kata KC, x rugi beli buku.    Very encouraging. 

Bila nk pi bayar tue, nmpk plak frame gamba.  Earlier, aku ada cuci 4 keping gamba so aku pon beli la frame dia.  Murah gaks….50% off.  Aku da arrange kat dresser aku kat dlm bilik.  It matches!

Time bayar tue, nmpkla promotion untuk buku Dan Brown yang terbaru yang akan direlease 15 September 2009, The Lost Symbol.  Kalau pre order dpt 25% off the normal price which is RM99.90 then dpt gak a few other vouchers dari Starbucks, Kenny Rogers, kedai donut baru tue apa ntah nama dia Borders voucher gak dapat and a few more kot kalau x silap aku.  Memang da lama aku nk order da and finally aku telah pre-order coz aku tgk ni, dia bg byk gak additional incentives.  So….nnt bila buku ni da smpi kat Borders The Curve, diorg akan call aku dan aku akan pergi amik.  Wow!  Excitednya!  Aku memang suka buku2 yang Dan Brown tulis.  Penuh misteri…..SYIOK!Habis kat Borders, kitorg pon berbuka puasa di McDonalds and our final destination before going back was Metrojaya coz aku nak beli kasut formal.  Kasut aku yg lama da aku buang kat Swiss sebelum aku balik coz da hancus!  Nasib aku baik, dan aku telah dapat jumpa satu pasang Pierre Cardin.  Aku beli pon coz aku kena g interview kat Singapore September 14 ni and aku xde kasut elok.  Ada ke nk g interview pakai kasut sport ngn suit???!  Oh tidak!  So…itulah cerita aku bershopping semalam.  Memang keseronakan kehabisan!  Mungkin gak aku lepas kempunan x shopping masa kat Swiss selama 7 bulan.  Tapi hakikatnya….barang kat Swiss memang kemahalan dan shopping kat Malaysia is the best!!!  SELAMAT HARI MERDEKA!!!!

Back in black for a gloomy Monday. These are my only trousers, we don’t get on so well, trousers and I. It just seems to me that trousers like to make themselves known, with fiddly waistbands, too many seams and fabric moving against your ankles, they just won’t let you get on with things like a dress does.
That said, these don’t follow the rules. These are men’s trousers so they are cut and tailored entirely differently making them infinitely more comfortable. Trousers are a necessity today after having scratched my legs up picking blackberries yesterday, it was definitely worth it.

Vintage 80s Men’s Trousers – Pierre Cardin via Sue Ryder
Vintage 80s Silky Tank Top – Marks & Spencer via PDSA
Vintage 80s Gold Belt – Unknown, part of a beach set via Car Boot Sale.
Vintage 80s Gold and Blue Sandals – Clarks via Jumble Sale

LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND—My mother has recently visited us here in England, spending eleven days reacquainting herself with her grandchildren she had not seen in four summers, meeting (for the second time—the first having been eleven years ago when Wendy and I worked together) the soon-to-be mother of her new granddaughter, and putting up with the moodiness, kibitzing and general shenanigans of her “second favorite” son.  Whenever my mother has visited me over the past 28 years since my first leaving home—whether I was living in Los Angeles, Valencia or Liverpool—her visits always incite a million emotions and conjure up the nostalgic reminiscings of a lifetime.

On this particular visit—as on past visits—my mother’s generosity was seemingly unending. She insisted on paying for all of our meals (most of which were taken in restaurants, and for the ones which weren’t, her debit card was always first to be drawn at the supermarket), and showered my children with gifts ranging from the necessary (clothes, shoes and a much needed haircut for my son) to the capricious (MP3 players, CDs, magazines and loads of pastries). This generosity was on top of gifts she brought us all from Chicago which she divvied out the morning of her arrival which included two beautiful matching sterling silver Hamsa pendants for Wendy and my daughter, a Cubs t-shirt and baseball cap for my son and a new black kippah and tefillin bag for me.

I was pleased, most naturally, that my mother had finally made it over to Europe to see my children again after such a long time between what had always been annual visits. But I was especially surprised when, on the last day of her stay, she suggested we all go out for a special dinner. When I said we could save the money and have dinner at home, she responded by insisting we go out to a nice restaurant saying, “What am I working for? What am I collecting Social Security for? Let’s go out and have a nice dinner at a nice restaurant on my last night in Liverpool.” We did. And it was a most memorable evening for all of us.

My mother’s eagerness to whip out her plastic also had an interesting upshot for me. Apart from the dozen or so veggie burgers I devoured at her expense during the course of her visit, my mother bought me a new suit. But not just any suit and the more that I think about that suit, the more it means to me.

My humble economic state over the past few years has resulted in drastic cost-cutting measures that have all but seen my zeal for buying good clothes diminish to a level befitting GQ and Esquire to cancel my subscriptions. In fact, I have been reduced to a threadbare  wardrobe consisting of a casual winter-weight suit, a never out of style Austin Reed double-breasted navy, pinstripe suit that was given to me in 1986 as a gift by a girl I dated briefly (which still kinda fits and looks as good today as it did 23 years ago), two pairs of casual trousers (navy Dockers and Ralph Lauren chinos), two pairs of 501s, a pair of Dickies 11″ denim pocket shorts, a half a dozen Marks and Spencer dress shirts (lovingly acquired by Wendy at Liverpool’s finest charity shops) and a small variety of polos and tees. That’s the long and short of my wardrobe.

So when I had told my mother about an article I read in the latest issue of GQ about a writer who substituted his eight thousand pound ($13,000) suit of clothes for one costing fifty ($81.44) at ASDA, WalMart’s British cousin, she said, “Let’s go buy you one.” The suit the writer had acquired included a two-piece suit, dress shirt, pocket square, belt, tie and watch. The writer wanted to see if anyone would notice his bargain basement switch-a-roo, so he went to ASDA and bought their cheapest suit under their “George” label and it turned out that after wearing the cheap suit for a week not one person had noticed.

The thought of my buying a suit at a WalMart-type store invoked horrible childhood memories of my mother shlepping me kicking and shouting to Robert Hall, Crawfords and Weiboldts while my better-off friends were being outfitted at Marshall Fields, Saks and Mister Eddie (though my bar mitzvah suit—a sharp Pierre Cardin powder blue three piece—did come from Eddie’s). But for the sake of desperately needing a new suit (thanks to my cake and pie addiction, my Austin Reed is getting a bit snug) I decided that a cheap suit is better than a suit that I imagine would one day explode during Saturday morning services just when I am called up to the Torah. So last week on our way back from having lunch with Wendy at a quaint, Northshore-like café near the university, we stopped at the ASDA on Smithdown Road on the way home to look at the George Men’s Collection.

At first glance the suits appeared quite nice and on closer inspection the manufacturing also appeared to be of a pretty good quality: reinforced stitching, a nice thick satin-like lining, decent pockets inside and out and—perhaps the most surprising—a good fit right off the peg in a 44 short jacket and 36X30 trousers which couldn’t have broken over my shoe tops better if they had been taken up by a bespoke tailor. The only thing that gives away the suit’s 100% polyester skin is its shine under direct sunlight, other than that I must admit it’s a pretty nice suit. And at a total cost of 25 pounds—19 for the jacket and 6 for the trousers—that’s an astounding 40 bucks for a two-piece suit.

So while my new George suit can’t be compared quality wise to the suits I’ve owned previously from Saks and Lord & Tayor, it does more than serve its purpose of covering me up and protecting my body from the harsh elements—which if I recall correctly is the basic function of clothing.

I will admit that I have my eye on a beautiful navy blue, three-button, two-piece, Austin Reed suit at their flagship Liverpool boutique at the modest price of 199 pounds (about $325), but when I think for the same amount of money I can buy seven suits at ASDA and have one for every day of the week and enough money left over to take Wendy and the kids to What’s Cooking for veggie burgers and cupcakes on Monday night for their 1980s-priced menu, it strikes me as a good idea to wear my new George suit for a few weeks just to make sure it doesn’t melt in the hot Spanish sun or dissolve in the biting English rain.

While I haven’t lived with my mother for three decades and as the years whiz by, the chasms of distance and our distinct personalities have seemed to grow wider and deeper as time goes on. But I guess that’s just part of life, growing up and how our relationships with our parents evolve. At times I regret moving away from Chicago all those years ago—maybe even resent the fact that no one asked me not to—and think about all the special times I could have had with my parents and brother and with my grandparents while they were still living. But as my mother always says (what my father always says) hindsight is 20/20, meaning I guess that I’ll have to live with the decisions I’ve made and with the umpteen daily “what ifs” that serve as constant reminders as to how not to make the same mistakes too many times.

A few years before my mother remarried my father, my aunts and uncles who had moved to Los Angeles early on in the 1960s tried desperately to convince her to move out west. She refused not wanting to leave my grandparents alone in Chicago. I’ve always wondered how my life would have turned out had she taken their advice. I obviously couldn’t even begin to imagine where I’d be right now had we moved to L.A. back in the late 1960s, but I have a feeling if we had, the suit hanging in my closet today wouldn’t have come from WalMart.

For now, the suit that is hanging in my closet is from WalMart. And my mother bought it for me. I’ll remember that every time I wear it, as for me it symbolizes her embrace and the warmth and protection which clothes are, at their most basic level, designed for—warmth and protection that only a mother could give her child. I can only hope and pray that my mother doesn’t wait another four years to visit—I’ll be 50 then, my son will be driving, my older daughter will be well into her teens and my younger daughter will be entering kindergarden—and when she does come back, I’ll wear the suit that she bought me and thank her for keeping me safe and warm since last having seen each other.

TOP 50. Un elenco particolare, costruito ogni anno con scoop e informazioni. Obiettivo: indovinare il decesso entro fine anno di un personaggio famoso e non in perfetta salute. C’è posto per tutti: da Fidel Castro al terrorista di Lockerbie, da Blake Carrington di “Dinasty” al rapinatore del secolo, Ronnie Biggs.

Sarà una coincidenza ma sull’almanacco estivo, tra anniversari e ricorrenze sono più croci che nascite, e la lista si allunga con le notizie dell’ultima ora, da Michael Jackson a Bobby Robson. La rete che non dorme mai, non si fa sorprendere, e ha già organizzato tutto, persino la morte. «On today, gone tomorrow. Ci sei oggi, domani non più» è il motto del sito inglese Deathlist.net che dal 1987 per ogni anno raccoglie le previsioni sulla scomparsa di personaggi in vista. Chiamalo decesso, commiato, perdita: l’importante è scommettere su chi non ci sarà più.

Deathlist è un club, e come ovvio ci sono delle regole. Il comitato stila una lista di 50 celebrità scelte per la loro probabilità di morire entro il 2009. I candidati devono essere famosi per il proprio ruolo e la loro morte deve essere in odore di coccodrillo per i media inglesi. Inoltre, raccomandano quelli di Deathlist a chi volesse diventare membro del club con segnalazioni e dritte, devono essere «famosi sì ma non per essere morti presto» Un massimo di 25 candidati dell’anno precedente può riapparire l’anno dopo. Non di più. Nel 2008 ben 14 celebrità sono morte, per Deathlist è un record che accresce le aspettative per il 2009. Certo i progressi della scienza medica rendono difficili le previsioni, e la sfida «si fa molto più avvincente ogni anno, ma fortunatamente è controbilanciata – dicono quelli di Deathlist- dalla spasmodica ricerca dei membri del forum» che fanno di tutto per trovare notizie di ogni tipo per far entrare il nome in classifica e spingerlo in alto, portando a casa la soddisfazione grottesca di una delazione particolare.

La lista è democratica: comprede attori (lo sfortunato Patrick Swayze, il roccioso Kirk Douglas, l’austero Christopher Lee, la mitica Liz Taylor), personaggi di serie tv (il dottor Quincy Jack Klugman, John Forsythe, ovvero Blake Carrington di Dinasty) politici (da Shamir a Mandela), musicisti (B.B. King), registi e produttori (Blake Edwards – che forse di DeathList sarebbe un tifoso…- e Dino de Laurentis), collaborazionisti nazisti (come John Demjanjuk, l’Ivan il Terribile del campo di concentramento nazista di Treblinka), criminali (Susan Denise Atkins, alias Sadie Mae Glut, appartenente alla famiglia di Charles Manson), icone come Nancy Reagan e Pierre Cardin, entrambi new entry.

La lista della morte viene diramata prima dell’inizio dell’anno, quindi si aprono le discussioni sul forum dove vengono raccolte ulteriori indicazioni. Accanto a ogni nome c’è anche il numero di interventi dei forumisti: il carisma di Fidel Castro sbaraglia tutti con 903 segnalazioni, a suo favore però perchè nel 2009 Fidel retrocede di due posizioni. L’unico a insidiarlo come popolarità è Ariel Sharon, in coma, che con insolito e involontario garbo è stato fatto scivolare nell’ultima posizione della lista.
Intanto la DeathList 2009 registra già sei punti. Oltre alla leggenda del football Robson, che l’anno scorso era 46esimo e quest’anno sesto (e infatti…), se ne sono andati Karl Malden (l’attore delle Strade di San Francisco e del mitico Fronte del porto), segnalato anche l’anno scorso, e le new entry come l’attrice inglese Wendy Richard, stroncata da un cancro, il giornalista Walter Cronkite, il trainer ippico Vincent O’Brien e il mondano Sir Dai Llewllyn.

A leggere il podio di DeathList, sembra di essere dentro una battuta di Woody Allen: un rapinatore, un terrorista e un architetto. Dalla quarta posizione alla prima sale Ronnie Biggs, «the great train robber», l’uomo che nel 1963 riuscì a rubare 2,6 milioni di sterline. In questi giorni è tornato ad essere un uomo libero, ma su un letto d’ospedale, condannato a rimanerci. Idem per l’ex agente dei servizi segreti libici, Abdelbaset Ali Mohmed Al Megrahi, 56 anni, giudicato colpevole dell’attentato aereo di Lockerbie nel 1988. Gli è stato diagnosticato un tumore. La colpa del brasiliano Oscar Niemeyer è invece solamente l’età. I 102 anni dell’architetto modernista, allievo di Lucio Costa e Le Corbusier, uno dei principali realizzatori della nuova capitale Brasilia.

A ridosso, in pacifica classifica (senza sussulti rispetto al 2008) anche i 101 anni dell’antropologo Claude Lévi-Strauss e i 96 di Michael Mackintosh Foot, politico british e vecchio leader del Labour. Nuovo invece l’ingresso di João Havelange, ex presidente della Fifa. La lista unisce indubbiamente cattivo gusto e cinismo, ma accade pure che scorrendo i futuri morti, si scoprano i vivi a sorpresa. Anche se non ancora novantenni, sono figure di un’altra epoca, come il pugile Jack Lamotta (88 anni) e l’attore Mickey Rooney (89) che di anni hollywodiani ne ha più di quelli reali del venerabile Yoda.

Non ci sono parabole su DeathList, i primi resteranno tali, almeno questo sperano gli utenti. Scorrendo nel forum, c’è già qualche idea per il 2010, è “solo” una lista di 200 nomi. Si salvi chi può.

Re-branding e licensing. Safilo Group, leader nel settore dell’occhialeria di moda e alta gamma e Pierre Cardin, una delle aziende storiche della moda parigina, annunciano il rinnovo dell’accordo di licenza per il design, la produzione e la distribuzione della collezione di montature da vista e occhiali da sole a marchio Pierre Cardin, oltre che per la produzione di modelli della linea Pierre Cardin Evolution. L’accordo prevede un rinnovo di ulteriori 10 anni, grazie al quale l’attuale licenza proseguirà fino al 31 dicembre 2020.