Autumn Morning in West Sonoma County

Autumn is definitely here when the mornings are cold – even frosty – and the days are only brisk enough to encourage a hardy walk in the afternoon.   I love to snuggle in the covers knowing that I will have wonderful temperatures for doing fall garden cleanup.  This year I am planting a draught tolerant garden in place of the water hogging lawn in the front so a lot of the cleanup is just not happening.  Yesterday was perfect for walking 20 acres of undeveloped land in hopes of finding the perfect building site for clients.  Is there a time of year that I do not love Sonoma County?

Thanksgiving is my favorite holiday.  The preparations are enough to know that something special is going on but the duration is limited to a couple of days at most.   Over the years we have celebrated Thanksgiving by hosting an extended family and friends gathering (often including those people with whom we worked that did not have local family) to intimate family gatherings of 4 to 6.  A few years ago it was only going to be the two of us and we did not know how to deal with that.  Solution – friends invited us to their traditional celebration.  It was great fun with meeting new people, helping in someone else’s kitchen and being introduced to “sock” golf.  It was so much fun that we have gone every year since.  This year our son, daughter-in-law and new granddaughter were included in the festivities which made the day as close to perfect as possible.

Practice Range for Sock Golf

“So, What is sock golf?”, you ask.  Sock Golf is a take off on golf where instead of a ball and club you have a sock with the toe filled with sand/dirt/rocks.  The goal is to get the sock into the coffee cans associated with a particular course.  Most holes are par 3 and they all seem to have a tree or shed or fence as an obstacle.  There is a technique to flinging the sock and, sometimes, it goes behind you or only a few feet forward.  There are penalties for losing your sock and landing in the flower beds.  If you hit a turkey, you are allowed to take away a stroke just as long as you do not hit a grapevine.  If a player is over 80, they get a two stroke handicap which comes in very handy.  The team with the lowest “best sock” score is awarded a prize after dinner.

Resting and Eating after Sock Golf

Once nine holes of sock golf are in the bag, the food starts coming out.  With about as many cooks are eaters, the kitchen is usually full.  My specialty to bring is the cranberry sauce which has become an expected condiment.  My recipe calls for dried apricots soaked in sherry and then cooked with the fresh cranberries, honey and sugar.  It is always a hit where ever I take it.  Tom took some of his cheeses so he had a number of great conversations about fermentation.  This group is largely drawn from Palo Alto, previous home of our hosts as well as us, so there is a broad spectrum of techical folks who want to get into the nitty gritty of what is happening scientifically.

The Spread for Warming Up to Eating - including Cheeses by Tom

Dinner was a group activity with turkeys, dressing, gravy, brussel sprouts, sweet potato salad, cabbage, green beans and mashed potatoes.  Great Russian River pinot and lively conversations topped off the meal – a good time was had by all.  We are so fortunate – even in these times of depressed housing costs and high unemployment – to live in a country, county and community that protects our surroundings and nutures our souls.  I wish everyone a heart full of thanksgiving.  My your table be laden with health and your bodies full of love.  Namaste.

One of the Two Thanksgiving Tables

Mission Codename: 50 69 6E 6F 74

Operative: Agent Red

Objective: Return to Peters Family Winery’s to retreive their newest Pinot Noir, their 2006 Sonoma Coast

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Peters Family Winery

Wine Subject: 2006 Pinot Noir – Sonoma Coast

Winemaker: Douglas Peters

Backgrounder: Our Operatives were so smitten with the last Peter’s Family Pinot Noir that we featured, that we kept the winery under close surveillance – in anticipation of the release of their newest Pinot. Today, Agent Red returns with their 2006 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. You’ll find it here, today, before it is available anywhere else. Read Agent Red’s tasting notes and mission report for the full details on today’s fantastic wine.

The Sonoma Coast AVA is the 750 square mile area with the Pacific ocean on its western boundary, the San Pablo Bay to the south and Mendocino County to the north, headed inland to the other designated AVAs in Sonoma County. The region is heavily influenced by the cooler ocean climate, increased rainfall and fog that lingers long on the coastal mountains. The specific climate suits the demanding Burgundian varietal of Pinot Noir very well.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Crystal clear ruby red with a slightly darker core and great concentration out to the slightly lighter edges of the wines. When swirled, quickly-formed and tightly-packed clusters of thick legs legs speed down the side of the glass

Smell – Lush and fruit-driven at first, with bold aromas of dark cherry, raspberry and young blackberry. These sit easily atop intriguing aromatic black tea, cinnamon, soft gunpowder, vanilla and dark mixed spices

Feel – Soft and cool up front, this wine starts soft and plump. Then, quickly, mild medium tannins take hold at the mid-palate, drying the tongue, lips and cheeks with a soft minerality

Taste – Pronounced cherry, young strawberry and raspberry lead the charge. These are followed by touches of spice, earth, fresh herbs, flinty minerals and subtle gunpowder smoke. These add to the overall complexity – but without overpowering the silky texture and flavors of the wine

Finish – This wine finishes long and elegant with bold fruit, oaky vanilla, minerals that dry – and soft spice

Conclusion – This fantastic wine is drinking beautifully now, but I cannot help but ponder just how fantastic it will be in 6 months or more. I’m drinking half of my stash of this 2006 Peters Family Pinot Noir – Sonoma Coast – and saving the other half until next year. IF I can wait that long. Long on fruit and complimented by a plethora of supporting characters, this wine is a complex California Pinot that intrigues from first sip, though to its long and flavorful finish.

Mission Report:

What follows is our initial mission to Peters Family Winery, in which we first came to learn of Doug and his fabulous wines. Note: Doug remains as elusive today as he was then.

One of my most valued Assets, Codename: Valley Girl, alerted me to Peters Family Winery’s Pinot Noir recently. After an undercover visit to the winery tasting room, I needed no convincing that this wine was wonderful treat that our Operatives needed to be brought up to speed on.

Typically, when I have my sights set on a wine, procuring it is not usually a problem. Our reputation often proceeds us and wineries make their wonderful wines immediately available to us.

The mission to procure this wine, however, was somewhat more difficult; Peters Family winemaker and head honcho, Douglas Peters was secreted away in an undisclosed location – but I was determined to track him down so that we could negotiate a small procurement for our Operatives.

A flurry of email and telephonic subterfuge ensued and I tracked Doug to his secret lair south of the border. Because his Pinot Noir is that good, I spared no expense and called on our resident pilot, Agent White_, to fuel up the Wine Spies Spy Plane. Reluctant to spend the money for a long flight like this one, Agent White did take a bit of persuasion but, in the end, complied with my request; He was easily convinced after one small taste of this wine.

While I didn’t have an exact location on Doug, I did have the name of the village. After a harrowing landing on a small dirt strip in high crosswinds (an Agent White favorite!), we were able to convince the local constabulary to help us locate Doug. It only too a few cases of wine to do the trick.

We found Doug on the beach, recognizing him from his photo on his website. A glass of wine in hand, Doug seems to be enjoying the sunset.

Wasting no time with subterfuge, I got right to the point.

“I’m sorry to bother you on your vacation, Mr. Peters. I’m Agent Red, Wine Spy, and I am here to ask you for a your wine.”

“Sorry, I don’t link to share glasses with strangers. You know, germs”

Then a smile spreads across his face and he claps me on the shoulder (a feat that, at a head and a half taller than me, requires that Doug stoop slightly to reach me). “I’m just having fun with you,” He says. “Come on, have a seat, I’ll pour you a glass of my Pinot Noir.”

I explained that is was because of this same Pinot that I made this expedition.

“It’s gooooood, isn’t it?” he asks.

My turn to smile.

We enjoyed the rest of the bottle, chatting about his wines and his approach to winemaking. Doug creates wines that are certainly of California, but also in a more Burgundian style, giving the wines a great balance between old world and new. This, in my opinion, is a great way to approach winemaking as it delivers the best qualities of these two winemaking styles – without being at odds with each other.

After some deft negotiations, I had secured a small allotment for you, Operative, and then Doug excused himself.

“Here’s another bottle for you,” he offered. I’m off to watch the lunar eclipse tonight. It’ll be 3 years until we see another one. See you back in the States!”

With that, he left me there to further ponder his Pinot Noir. Doug’s love for his craft shines through in this wine, which exhibits balance, brilliance and a depth of character that I find uncommon.

Bravo, Doug!

2006 Mongeard-Mugneret Savigny–les–Beaune 1er Cru Les Narbantons

Wine Information:

Country: France

Region: Burgundy

Appellation: Savigny-les-Beaune

Vineyard: Les Narbantons

Cooperage: 35% in new French Oak

Grapes: 100% Pinot Noir

Price: $48

My Tasting Notes:

Nose: mushroom, slight barnyard, raspberry

Taste: black cherry, red clay, leather and black pepper (taste not spicy), wet forest

Mouthfeel: silky and balanced with great acidity and young leathery tannins

Finish: long with dark fruit and slight earthy notes

Beautiful wine, that is drinking well now but shows that it still has a lot of life left in it. Not inexpensive by any means, but definitely a great value for a Premier Cru red Burgundy.

Cheers!

This past Sunday we participated in the annual Corona Creek Olive Harvest.  Corona Creek, in addition to it’s excellent Pinot Noir vineyard, has an olive grove.  Chris makes the most incredible olive oil out of these olives.

A crowd of about 50 volunteers descended on the olive grove early in the morning and got busy pulling, shaking and generally having a good old time helping Chris, the owner, bring down as many olives as we could before the lunch feast at noon.

Picking olives

Kathryn setting up the olive capturing tarp

Ben 'working'

french baby picking olives

One of the main reasons we elected to source grapes from Corona Creek is due to the fact that it is a small family farm with sustainable practices growing a variety of vegetables in addition to the grapes and olives. In other words, it is far from a mono culture farm.  In fact, it is quite multi-cultural.

In any case, olive picking was a lot of fun.  We met a lot of people from all walks of life.  The kids and dogs had a great time through the trees and the vineyards and we learned a bit about what makes good olive oil while enjoying our fellow pickers’ company. Afterward we enjoyed a lovely meal along with some of Corona Creek’s own Pinot Noir.  To top it all off, a lively singing trio was on hand to entertain the crowd during lunch.

Singing trio

As we clean up the remaining dishes (and wine glasses) from Thanksgiving, our thoughts now turn toward the winter holidays, which are now just around the corner. As a little incentive to get you started on your holiday shopping, we’re offering a couple of specials:

Mmmm...Recchiuti Chocolates!

HOLIDAY GIFT PACK: WINE AND CHOCOLATES
For a limited time only we are offering a Holiday gift pack of 2007 Waits-Mast La Encantada Pinot Noir, featuring a 4-piece varietal box from San Francisco’s renowned boutique chocolatier Recchiuti.

Waits-Mast 2007 La Encantada Pinot Noir

Celebrate the holidays by sending a wine gift-set to your foodie friends. The gift set includes one bottle of La Encantada Pinot Noir and one 4-piece box of chocolates, all for $49 + tax/shipping. You’ll find the gift pack listed in our webstore through the holidays.

HOLIDAY SPECIAL: SAVINGS ON SHIPPING
To lighten the load on your holiday expenses, we’re offering two different specials on shipping: For 50% off shipping for any orders of 11 bottles or less, enter HALF in the coupon code box and hit “submit.” For free shipping on a case (12 bottles) or more, enter CASE for the code. The special applies to any products in our store including the Holiday Chocolate Gift Pack. The shipping special runs from November 30, 2009 through December 31, 2009.

As a reminder, if you live in the San Francisco Bay Area you can save shipping costs by picking up your wine. Just select “local pickup” during the purchase process. You can then pick up the wine at the Crushpad shipping and logistics center in San Francisco. Call  (415) 558-9181 to schedule your pickup.

I had a opportunity to stop at the Maysara Winery http://www.maysara.com yesterday and enjoyed seeing everyone.  The wines were beautiful and the food Flora & Moe created themselves may have been Persian in origin but had a Greek flair that they did so well.  It was fun to see their girls pouring the wines and telling stories.  It warmed my heart to think of Natasha, Jordan, and Aspen doing that someday!  They are our neighbors and we are truly blessed to have them as friends.

Over the last few months I’ve read hundreds of wine pairings from great bloggers around the world (wide web). The general concensus of Thanksgiving pairings included a Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel. While I respect the opinions of those blogs and I learned a great deal, the best advice I heard was from TheWineWhore who encouraged, “drink what you like.”

Our Thanksgiving adventure began with driving to Portland, OR from Spokane, WA. After 5 hours and 20 minutes in the car (impressive to those that know), we arrived ready to celebrate with family and with wine. Below is a recap of the five wines we enjoyed.

Wednesday

Frontera Cabernet Merlot Blend – $3

Okay, before you judge me and discredit this blog – it was offered to us by my Father in-law. In the spirit of diplomacy, I partook. It wasn’t Boone’s Farm but it was dull, bland, watery, and lifeless. If you’re in the need for a $3 bottle of wine, it’ll do but otherwise drink grape juice instead.

Thursday (Turkey Day)

 2008 J Bookwalter Tercet (Roussane / Marsanne / Muscat) – $18

We brought this Columbia Valley, WA white blend from our Woodinville tasting trip. This was a great starting wine for the night. Very flowery roses, lemon and vanilla for the smell. The sip was crisp and believe it or not had hints of pumpkin pie (nutmeg and vanilla). The wine was overwhelmed by the sweet potatoes but held up well with the turkey, stuffing and cranberry. P.S. It is the only J Bookwalter white that is not sold out.

2008 Cline Cellars Cashmere (Mourvedre / Grenache / Syrah) – $21

Like the Led Zeppelin song of the same name this wine is big, bold and complex. This blend supporting the breast cancer network comes off very fruity on the sniff but the sip provides a balance of plum, pepper and cocoa. The Sonoma Valley, CA wine clashed with the cranberry but paired well with the mashed potatoes, gravy and green been caserole. Definitely want to find this wine again to try with pork, lamb or heavy pasta. Cline Cellars

2007 Pillar Box Red (Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot) $10 or less

The big fruit forward selection is a bargain from your local Costco. The fruitiness of the Shiraz was balanced out by the spice and boldness of the Cab. The sniff was not as complex as the previous wine and the finish had the most tannin. Pillar Box Red felt chewy when drank alone but pairing with the turkey, stuffing, and later the cheesecake it came alive nicely. The 90 point score in Wine Advocate seems a few points high but I will definitely pick this bottle up on the next trip to Costco.

2008 Oregon Pinot Noir – $13

This ‘best selling Pinot in Portland’ was the last of the Thanksgiving wines to be opened. The only thing paired with this wine was great conversation over global warming, health care, and my last piece of Eggnog cheesecake. At $13, Eola Hills Pinot was the hands down best value. The swirl was the lightest of all the wines we tried, translucent and brilliant. The cherry, vanilla smell reminded me of Cherry Dr. Pepper. The sip was light bodied with good tannin structure on the back end. Admittedly, I am not a Pinot lover, nor do I have vast experience in tasting them, but this wine scored high with me.

For the most part we bucked conventional wisdom. The wines we gave thanks over were chosen because they were ‘liked’ by the people who brought them. TheWineWhore’s advice is the best – drink what you like. If you don’t know what you like or have fears over food pairings, check out the hundreds of amazing reviewers out there (some are on my blog roll to the left).

Enjoy life with friends and DRINK.HAPPY!

Controlling weeds under vine is an important job in the vineyard. Weeds compete for water and nutrients and can lead to stressed vines and stressed vines = stressed wines.
The most popular method for controlling weeds is by spraying a band underneath the vine row with herbicide. This gives excellent control of weeds but does have disadvantages. We had found that we had in effect been selecting for hard to kill weeds.
Last year we bit the bullet and purchased an under vine weeder, to take out the problem weeds.

The weeder has a blade that slides along just below the surface slicing through plant roots. The obvious problem to overcome with the design of an under vine weeder is to not damage the grape vine. This has been achieved by the wonder of hydraulics. Above and slightly in front of the blade is a sensor bar which controls the blade; move the sensor bar and you move the blade. The sensor bar is 30 cm above the ground and as the weeder moves along the row the sensor bar is pushed back by a vine or post and slides around it and the blade follows the sensor bar.

It was necessary to put stakes around irrigation risers (pipes that feed the irrigation lines from the underground mainline) to catch the sensor bar and protect the riser pipes from being cut by the weeder. Other than that it was an easy change to make and in our soils the under vine weeder works really well.
Cheers for now

Stuart

http://www.toreawines.co.nz/
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this is part three of three of three parts. part one covered my experience as a novice taster, part two some producers that i found interesting, and part three a few wines i found that are affordable and killer, even still.

part un - part deux – part trois

part trois: the wino’s lochness

it’s an intimidating, maybe even frightening, challenge to find pinot noir under $20 that you won’t be cleaning your drains with. (editor’s note: drano is cheaper, and in independent laboratory tests it consistently proved much more effective)

however, it does exist,believe it or not. you’ll probably have to creep a little closer toward 20 than maybe you’d like, but i promise you, it pays dividends. at pinot days most producers were pouring their more serious efforts, but a few gave a peek at a more affordable wine that will restore your faith in humanity. (the last statement is non-verifiable)

caramel road

their 2007 monterrey pinot noir was a tasty fruit forward wine, with a little nutty quality on the finish that gave it a little twist. at under $20 this wine certainly will make you trade in your frei brothers and acacia.

fess parker winery

to me, this was the most impressive of the group. they poured a 2007 santa barbara county  that was every inch a pinot noir. i got a little spice and muchroom on the nose, great light fruits on the palate. at the mid-twenty price point this definitely beat out a lot of it’s peers.

girasole

candid wines was pouring a whole array of wines, mostly german, but they brought this organically produced pinot from mendocino that really, really impressed me. it’s light, juicy, with a great mouthfeel. retailing around $15 bones, you simply cannot lose. i wasn’t aware at the time, but this wine was deemed one of the years best pinot noirs by wine and spirits magazine.

pali wine co.

unfortunately you can’t find this wine in the chicago area, that i know of. however, if you’re lucky enough to have access (meaning you probably live in california) look out for their 2008 sonoma coast “riviera” pinot noir. unfortunately my notes at this point were thumbs up and thumbs down (at least i wasn’t using smiley faces!) so i can tell you i enjoyed this wine, and at around $20 check it, boi.

so there you are, it took me long enough, but i did it: chicago pinot days 2009 in three parts. hope you enjoyed it, and here’s to next year!

We chose this delicious Chilean Pinot Noir for our Thanksgiving dinner feast. That was last night and we had a wonderful dinner. . .but I was so caught up in the moment that I didn’t really eat much, so we are having our leftovers tonight. But, back to our Thanksgiving day. We were happy to have my sister and her husband and our son, Tommy and his girlfriend, Amanda, for dinner. For our pre-dinner cocktail hour, we served martinis (for us) and strawberry daiquiris (for the non-martini drinkers). Then, we sat down to dinner of turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and gravy, cranberries, sauteed asparagus, baked squash,and buttermilk biscuits. We had pumpkin pie for dessert.

Tonight it is quiet in our home; Trigger is snoozing quietly by my side. I have the leftover turkey, squash and stuffing reheating in the oven. Now I have the time to really savor this wine. Raspberry  nose; the palate is strawberry jam and some floral notes. The finish is long with a bit of tobacco and cherry.

This is a great wine for roast turkey. Tonight I will actually see how the meal tasted last night (when I was too caught up in the happiness of our togetherness to eat).

*Disclaimer: I received this wine as a sample from Rodney Strong.

I’ve been on a real Pinot Noir kick lately. I don’t know what’s gotten into me since I’m such a Zin freak usually and I love big heavy reds as the weather turns cold. But when I find myself in the basement hunting for the wine for that evening in the last few nights, I’ve gone straight for the Pinot. I was especially interested to try this 2007 Davis Bynum Russian River Valley Pinot Noir. Davis Bynum sold to Rodney Strong in the summer of 2007. So this would be the first year produced under the name for the Rodney Strong brand. Matt and I actually visited Davis Bynum in 2006 on our honeymoon…it was the only winery we didn’t buy wine at on that trip. We very much liked the wines, but the staff in the tasting room was indifferent to our presence. And it was the only winery we had stopped at that entire day. They also wanted an absurd amount of money to ship to VA. So we left without buying anything. I wanted to see how the wines were faring under Rodney Strong’s stewardship and I must say I am happy to report they are excellent. The 2007 Russian River had a real cork closure and retails for $35.

On the nose I got spice, cherries, earth, red fruit, herbs, strawberries, chocolate, and just the slightest hint of cherry Coke.  In the mouth I found baking chocolate, red fruit cherries, strawberries, herbs, spice, tea, raspberry, and juicy red fruit.  Overall, this had a fantastic long finish, nice tart fruit, and great structure and acidity. We really enjoyed this bottle of wine and I would highly recommend it.

(Thanks Alea for writing this awesome post!!)

ARE YOU READY TO RUMBLE??????

It was the Smack Down of the Century, Oregon vs. California for who can hold claim to the title of best Pinot Noirs.  In order to make sure it was a fair fight we did a blind tasting with five Oregon and five California Pinots.  It was a long hard battle and in the end the only unanimous decision was that ten Pinots with seventeen people tasting is really hard to make it through.

the pinot line-up

Bottle 1: Arista 2007 Sonoma Coast CA

On the nose Kelly got Cranberry while Ellen got burnt crayon. Alea tasted dark fruit. Melanie got stems and grass.

Bottle 2: Bogle 2007 Russian River Valley CA

Colin smelled all barnyard. Nicki got baking spice and Kelly was all over the cheese and chicharrones. On the palate Russ found it creamy and Alea found it buttery but thought it smelled like blueberry dry erase markers. Alexa tasted roses.

Bottle 3: Black Kite 2007 Anderson Valley CA

Right away fruits were jumping at us. Ellen got Blackberry while Alea was smelling raspberry and Russ was having a shnozberry parade in his nose. Ellen and Nicki confirmed the berryliciousness and unripe raspberries.  Tyler found it tart. Alea tasted regular coca cola and mushrooms to pair with the leather Nicki smelled.

Bottle 4: O’Reilly’s 2007 Oregon

Darren thought Rose from the Golden Girls had walked in the room when he smelled this wine. Johnny was also getting the old lady perfume covering up old lady smell. Gretchen was getting freesia but Nicki thought it was violet. Colin was getting more barnyard but this time with chocolate. The palate didn’t do much for us. Ellen tasted dirty socks. Fernanda just thought it was bad. Melanie clarified it was ass that we were tasting. Colin tasted stems.

winos

Bottle 5: Erashann Wood 2008 Willamette OR

Colin got a nose full of young man’s cologne and astringent but in a good way. Johnny felt like he was in the spice aisle at the grocery store but also was getting a hella tannic nose. Nicki was getting cinnamon and tree bark on the nose, while Kelly smelled pomegranate and notes that it had a juicy finish. Darren tasted blueberries and Nicki tasted black olives. Alea found it had a mild earthiness to the palate.

Bottle 6: Davis Bynum 2005 Allen Vineyard Russian River Valley CA

Right away Nicki thought it had and earthy nose with mushroom and Dr Pepper. She was surprised to find that the wine didn’t taste as burgundian as it smelt. Colin smelt brandy but tasted cough syrup. Alea found it smelled like a burnt match with a hit of cherry. Kelly was on the same track with his lit cigarette, charcoal and used BBQ. Ellen was smelling fruity hookah smoke. Dave got flat cola specifically Shasta cola. Russ tasted fruity cheese.

Bottle 7: Patricia Green Cellars 2007 “Estate” Ribbon Ridge OR

Colin got smoky scotch and antique train set on the nose. Russ was getting a nose full of lard from a burrito. Melanie smelt a bouquet of spring flowers especially honeysuckle. Alea smelt lemongrass and confirmed the lemon on the palate. Nicky smelled play dough and Kelly agreed but he tasted strawberry on the palate. Ellen found the palate Yummy and smooth like a babies bottom.

Bottle 8: And still standing (barely) The 5 Russians 2006 Nalasha’s  Russian River Valley

Kelly and Alea both got butterscotch right way on the nose. Ellen and Colin were in agreement they smelled funk berry. Dave got berries. Russ was sure it smelled like vodka and a bad hook up. Nicki got a spice she was pretty sure was nutmeg. Kelly also got bathtub and Nicki clarified that it was actually scrubbing bubbles. Johny said it finished with a strawberry tube taste.

Bottle 9: Broadley Vineyards 2008 Willamette Valley OR

“This smells like cowpow” Colin stated with a look of disgust on his face. He also got rotting wood. Russ called it earthy. Alea was sure that this wine is exactly what mildewy mushrooms on someone’s butt crack would smell like. Kelly called it fruity ass. Johny tasted berry colada. Kelly found it tart on the palate with some minerality. Alea tasted ASS, Culo!!! Asshole.

edutoxicating ourselves

Bottle 10: A to Z 2007 OR

Russ got overcooked BBQ on the nose. Ellen just got plan FUNK!! Andrea smelled gas station bathroom, while Nicki was getting more of a bat Mitzvah smell. Ellen got berry and Mushrooms on the palate.

Determining a winner was much harder than we thought it would be. The highest rated wine of the night was an Oregon, but all of the lowest rated wines were also from Oregon. California Pinots seemed to be much more consistent. They all had good solid ratings. Our decision was that a rematch will have to be scheduled to truly determine with state produces better pinots.  And buyers beware if you are going to go with an Oregon pinot make sure you get a referral, because there are some awful Oregon pinots out there. But for a great Oregon pinot noir go with our favorite of the evening Patricia Green Cellars 2007 “Estate” Ribbon Ridge from Oregon retails at around $43 a bottle (bottle 7).

thumbs up

Mission Codename: Grand Traditions

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Secure a very special Grand Cru Burgundy in honor of Thanksgiving Day

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Domaine Tortochot

Wine Subject: 2005 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

Winemaker: Gabriel Tortochot

Backgrounder:

Charmes-Chambertin is one of the nine Grand Cru vineyards in the Gevrey-Chambertin region of the Cote de Nuits. Charmes-Chambertin is the largest of the vineyards and lies to the south of the region, just east of the Route des Grand Crus (N74). The southern most portion of the vineyard is now referred to as Mazoyeres. These wines are known for showcasing Pinot Noir in its most pure form with ripe fruit and soft and elegant but still solidly structured.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep and beautifully dark ruby red and burgundy with ruby and violet hues through its dark but clear core. Along the edges the color lightens slightly to a lighter ruby and when swirled, slow thin, but widely spaced legs creep down to the wine below.

Smell – Medium in intensity, this elegant wine shows deeply integrated aromas of red cherry, floral violets, subtle spice and a hint of bramble over a base of toasted oak, funky earthiness and subtle chalky minerality.

Feel – This full-bodied wine has a muscular framework but, does so with elegance. And iron fist in a velvet glove, perhaps. Dry with silky but firm tannins and bright but balanced acidity and exceptional minerality linger for an eternity into the finish.

Taste – Exceptionally pure Pinot Noir flavors of red fruit, including red cherry along with subtle spice and earthiness. A chalky minerality that is both felt and tasted lingers over the palate with layers of floral violet, herbal notes and oak. Sublime in its integration.

Finish – Exceptionally clean and long with a textural quality that clings to the palate, making the mouth water for another sip.

Conclusion – The 2005 Domaine Tortochot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is a delicious and exceptional example of one of the world’s finest wine-growing regions. It is almost a shame to have tasted and reviewed this wine now, as its true potential lies a decade into the future. Finesse on the nose; bold and muscular, but not overbearing on the palate; elegance and purity in its flavors; and a finish that leaves you yearning for more. What else could you want? Allow this wine to open up and breathe for 30-60 minutes if enjoying it now, but if possible save a couple bottles for the future.

Mission Report:

Agent White on the Route des Grand Crus, France.
True identity concealed.

Below is a recap of Agent White’s and Blush’s recent visit to Burgundy.

… East Central France …

We began the day early as we wanted to hit the Route des Grand Crus with lots of time to enjoy the food and especially the wine. Zipping through the back roads from our safe house in Bar Sur Aube(south end of the Champagne region) to Dijon at this hour was fast but just outside of Dijon, we started to hit the normal business day traffic. Thankfully, the GPS devise in my handheld spy communicator quickly re-routed us around and soon we were headed south through some of the finest vineyards in all of Burgundy.

The N74, or Route de Dijon as its known officially but wine aficionados know this as the Route de Grand Crus. We slowed down and started taking it all in. The names of each commune and village familiar to anyone who has spent time in the French section of a good wine shop. The vineyards, this time of year, bare, with a slight fog resting in the lower valleys, and along the tops of the hills to the west. A slight drizzle fell creating an almost surreal experience as the fog and low clouds moved with the weather exposing and then rehiding these prized vineyards.

After our lunch in Beaune, Agent Blush and I had the chance to explore some of the smaller communes that overlooked the valley and in particular, the historic Gevrey-Chambertin with is many Grand and Premier Cru vineyards. Gevrey-Chambertin is located just a few miles south of Dijon. The wines from here are truly representative of the finesse and elegance that Burgundy is known for.

Quite simply, this is the life. While you may not have been able to join us on the Holiday in Beaune, today’s selection from Domaine Tortochot will at least give you a small bit of the flavor of the trip!

A votre sante!

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The approximate location of the Charmes-Chambertin can be seen in this satellite photo.

Thanksgiving Weekend Open House

We will be open Thanksgiving weekend from 11-5pm Friday – Sunday. Come taste the release of our 2007s, as well as some old favorites and a barrel tasting of our 2008s. Enjoy food pairings with the best views in the valley.

We will also be tasting at Café Uncorked next to the Lawrence Gallery on HY 18.  Tasting fee $5/person.  Join the Youngberg Hill Wine Club and enjoy a complimentary tasting and added discounts.

There are so many ways to go with wines for Thanksgiving.  This post is going to give you some direction based on varietals or wine types.  WineGuyMike is going to recommend three groups, light, medium, or full-bodied wine types that will go well with your beautifully prepared Thanksgiving meal.

Light bodied wine types; Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Grigio or Pinot Gris, Beaujolais, and Pinot Noir.  Within this group all of these are moderately priced except to enjoy a decent Pinot Noir you will need to spend a little more money.  The rest of these wine types if you spend $15-$20 you will enjoy a great bottle of wine with your Thanksgiving dinner.

Medium bodied wine types; Sauvignon Blanc a.k.a. Fume Blanc, and a Sancerre (a French Sauvignon Blanc).  You will be able to find some of these wine types in the $10-$15 dollar range, but if you are willing to spend $15-$20 you may really enjoy the nuances associated with a wine made with a bit more sophistication.

Full bodied wine types; Chardonnay, I’m going to also recommend getting above that $15 range as well.  Chardonnay’s that are just inexpensive sometimes may not be well made and are not pleasant to enjoy drinking.  It may be worth considering spending a little more to enjoy your Thanksgiving dinner with family and friends.

This list of wine types or varietals will take you down the right path to selecting some great bottles of wine to enjoy with your family and friends this 2009 Thanksgiving.  Your local CVS Pharmacy will have a great selection of wines to go with your dinner.  Remember to watch for the wines that will be featured today at your CVS store, you will find great wine selections at great prices.

WineGuyMike on behalf of CVS Pharmacy’s  would like to wish you and your families a wonderful Thanksgiving.

We are thankful for so many things it’s hard to narrow down the list. Here are the top 10 things we’re thankful for this season:

1.) CHARDONNAY
Santa Maria Valley is known throughout the wine community as one of the top AVAs for premium Chardonnay. Whether you prefer Chardonnay aged in oak or stainless steel, you can find a Chardonnay that’s right for you. Our goal is to prove that during The Chardonnay Symposium, slated for July 2010. Follow our blog for the latest developments.

2.) PINOT NOIR
We can’t get enough of the balanced Pinots from the SMV. There are a variety of styles throughout the area but one quality is found throughout Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noirs; they are food friendly. For many wine drinkers, wine is a part of daily life and enjoyed with dinner. It’s for this very reason that we are so proud of our food friendly wines. Occasionally you’ll find a wine that should be enjoyed on its own but most of our Pinots are extremely complimentary of a variety of foods, especially Thanksgiving Turkey. Need more ideas for Thanksgiving food and wine pairings? Check out this post by food and wine expert Laura Mohseni.

3.) EXPERIMENTATION
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Syrah may be the most popular varietals in Santa Maria but our winemakers love to experiment with many different varietals. Take Ken Volk, for example. It has been said that he works with as many as 60 different varietals. At any given time he can be selling wines made with 2 dozen different grapes. If you’re a big fan of obscure wines visit his tasting room and try wines such as the Cabernet Pfeffer.

4.) GROWTH
The Santa Maria Valley Wine Country is growing. We’re so happy to welcome CORE wine company’s new tasting room to the wine trail. Stay tuned throughout the year for news about Presqu’ile Winery off of Clark Ave (not yet open to the public). They have big plans for their future label and we can’t wait to try their wine. We’re also excited that Wine Country, the popular wine, beer and cigar tasting room from Los Olivos will be moving to Orcutt. Check this blog throughout the next year for news about all of the new wineries and tasting rooms in Santa Maria.

5.) HOLIDAY DISCOUNTS
The best discount of the season is probably the Wine Christmas Passport. Not only do you save up to 70% off of wine tasting fees but we’re giving away raffle tickets for every 2 bottles of wine that you purchase for the holidays (or for your wine cellar).

Another quick and affordable way to buy holiday gifts is to purchase a case of wine (and reap the reward of the case discounts offered by most wineries). Some wineries go beyond the average 10% discount and make a case discount impossible to pass up. Stop by Cottonwood Canyon on Black Friday and save 50% on case purchases of 2003 Bistro Zinfandel and Non-Vintage Bistro Chardonnay!

6.) COMMUNITY
One of the best reasons to live in Santa Maria, besides the great wine, is the community. Santa Marians support each other like one giant family. We are thankful for all of the support we have received from both businesses and individuals throughout the valley. In order to give back to our community, we have decided to give a portion of proceeds from our events (Wine Christmas Passport, The Chardonnay Symposium) to the Marian Foundation and the Blochman Union School District (the wine country’s school district).

7.) LOCATION LOCATION LOCATION
The Santa Maria Valley is only one of two East-West transverse valley on the whole west coast of North and South America, making it one of the most unique AVAs in the world. The transverse orientation accentuates cooling maritime influences from the Pacific Ocean, creating an average temperature of 64 degrees, with high temperatures rarely reaching above 75. Because the Valley is situated at its particular southerly latitude, an extended growing season (125 days on average) allows Santa Maria Valley to produce intensely high quality fruit.

8.) EVENTS
Nearly every weekend there are a variety of winery events to attend. There are Friday Night Wine Downs at Costa de Oro and Cottonwood Canyon, special food and wine pairings at Riverbench, art shows at McKeon-Phillips, “Bring your own burger” nights at CORE wine company, farmer’s markets at Cambria and much, much more. For a complete list of events in the wine country visit the SMVWINES calendar.

9.) FRESH, LOCAL PRODUCE
There are numerous ways to pick up fresh produce for the holidays (or for any meal). There is a Farmer’s Market at Town Center West across from the Santa Maria Town Center Mall (Broadway near Main Street) on Wednesdays from 12:30-4:30pm and in Orcutt on Bradley and Clark on Tuesdays from 10am-1pm.

Did you know? Santa Maria produces 10 million boxes of strawberries annually, which are transported to supermarkets all across the United States.

For juicy Santa Maria strawberries check out Darren’s Berries on the corner of Stowell and Highway 101’s northbound exit. You can buy them by the flat or half-flat. Don’t wash them until you’re ready to eat them and keep them spread out in an airtight container. That way they’ll last at least a week (or more)–IF you can refrain from eating them all in two days. Better yet, make strawberry jam for the winter months!

Check out this blog post about Santa Maria Strawberries.

10.) SOCIAL MEDIA
Social media has allowed us to reach out to fans of SMV wines throughout the world. We love hearing from you and sharing what we’re learned with you. There are so many ways to be involved with wine online. We’re planning on starting monthly online wine tastings in 2010 (stay tuned) as a way to share our wines with those across the globe. You can also keep in touch with us through Facebook, Twitter, You Tube, Flickr, Snooth, Open Wine Consortium, and many more wine websites. Just search each site for SMVWINES or click on the links above.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!!

Burgundy

As Thanksgiving approaches, in keeping with the spirit of extended weekend festivities, the twograpenuts suggest a rather unorthodox weekend getaway. Taking the red eye to Paris you can find yourself heading out to the amazing vineyards of Burgundy in hours. With two fantastic gastronomical cities to base yourselves in Dijon and Lyons, you will find your palate most delightfully pleased amidst an atmosphere out of a fantasy romance novel.  Nestled betwixt these quaint cities are a bevy of little villages along the illustrious vin de rue.

It is here you will find vineyards that have been in one family for generations, even centuries. Some cellars have been in use since the time of King Louis XIV and the present occupants are usually rich in stories of its past and the particulars of the wines grown there. Predominately Pinot Noirs with a sprinkle of Gamay here or there and the whites the legendary Chardonnay, the quality and variety from one vineyard to another is quite extraordinary.  Two of our favorites were the Domaine Jean Fournier in Marsannay and Domaine Rion in Vosne Romanee, who had a wonderful Gamay along with the usual fabulous Pinot Noir.

The region of Burgundy combines the beauty and archeological brilliance of ancient and modern France with a cuisine and most especially the wine that rivals the best in the world.  An intrepid adventurer can find the trip both relaxing and eventful over a long weekend. The key to remember is to bring extra luggage, to be filled with the best of those sampled to become prize pieces of your expanding wine collection.

Looking out the window I can see that the autumn leaves are falling fast. They are accumulating in random colourful patterns across my “in desperate need of a mow” lawn. For me this is a sure sign that the holidays are quickly approaching. It never fails that once they arrive I feel like I am constantly pressed for time.  I can never seem to get all that I would like done accomplished. Come to think of it, that sounds like my life’s story the remaining days of the year too! Regardless of my obvious poor time management, I do love the holiday season and the hustle and bustle that it brings.

This Thanksgiving I am going to be ready. Today I sit and plan the dishes for the day; I salivate as I leaf through my favorite recipes. I think this years Ella Mental menu will include Herb Roasted Brined Turkey, Cranberry and Sausage Cornbread Stuffing, Garlic-Parmesan Mashed Potatoes, Roasted Autumn Vegetables, Savory Turkey Gravy with Yorkshire Pudding, Cranberry Chutney, Pumpkin Cheesecake, and a crisp bottle (or two) of Pinot Noir to aide in tackling the preparation of this delectable feast.

Personally, I feel that great food is one of the key elements that contribute to the foundation of a happy and healthy home. So, it is a good thing that I love to cook! Cooking is one of those instantly gratifying pleasures I like to indulge in daily and it has become my art form-or as my waist would say, “body form!”  I confess, I am Ella Mental, and I am a food-oholic!  I am guilty of loving all of the delightful pleasures that it brings-and there is nothing better than when my kitchen is filled with mouth-watering aromas, the laughter of Super-girl as she dances in and out for taste tests and samples, the too many cooks (my family) stumbling around each other to help. Yes, in our home it would seem that food has become the tie that binds.  I look forward to this Thanksgiving, the gathering of us quirky and authentic souls surrounded by a scrumptious abundance.  It feeds my heart, my belly, and my soul, and I am so very grateful!

Of course, it wasn’t always this way; I can remember a time that the holidays brought with it platefuls of rotten emotions and a heaping of distasteful things. That first Thanksgiving with Mi hombre and his Spanish brood was not a resemblance of anything pleasant or grateful. Instead, with it came enough mounds of insecurities, irrational emotions and resentment that would have flattened even the finest of chef’s soufflés. It was a series of disasters; not the typical Thanksgiving disasters one would normally encounter like an accidental charbroiled bird or the family dog eating the stuffing off the counter. No, it was nothing of that sort. Lets just say that when Thanksgiving arrived that year I was ready to stuff more than a turkey, I was ready to stuff my whole relationship.

I can still recall myself sitting on the kitchen floor crying between my charred parmesan potatoes and a pumpkin cheesecake that had split right down the middle (the dish I was to bring to my future in-laws.) The sadness and disappointment that I felt with the absence of a congratulatory “Welcome to the Family!” I had expected from Mi Hombre’s parents and siblings. (It was our first get-together since the announcement of our engagement.) The anger and resentment that I felt when the ex wife threatened Mi Hombre, “don’t you forget I gave you your daughter!” (Over disliking the holiday boundaries he had set.) I remember being distraught and dumbfounded over how much turmoil family, exes, and the holidays could bring, questioning whether that was what I wanted for my life and feeling so sad that I couldn’t muster up even an ounce of gratitude.

Since that Thanksgiving I am happy to say, things have come full circle. Well, some things have-and other things (the ex wife), they may never change. But, C’est la vive! I have grown to love Mi Hombre’s Spanish brood-their kindness, their values, their culture, mmm, and their food…They have become my family and an integral part of my life. For this, and many reasons I am excited for the holiday, this year more than ever!

Thanksgiving is the time people gather to share food and companionship with loved ones. Coincidentally, for me it is time for the harvest… No, I am not a mid-western farm girl getting ready to reap the last crop of the season. I am mid-30’s stepmom and mid-cycle of my second IVF treatment. At sunrise they will harvest and prepare my eggs (not the deviled kind if ya know what I mean!) and hopefully by Christmas I will literally be with a bun in the oven.  Although, it has been a rough 3 years of adjustments and unsuccessful fertility treatments,  I have no doubt that this year we are in a much better place.  I am a firm believer that everything happens for a reason, and when and how it should.  It is Thanksgiving, and with all that it represents I feel it in my soul that we are surely in good alignment for a successful harvest.

Pray with me if you will: 2009 is the year and the season for wonderful things; a life filled with love, happiness, good food and great eggs-Happy Thanksgiving!

Getting ready for the big Thanksgiving Weekend.

PRIMERA PARTE: ROAD TRIP

Todo empezó con un buen road trip desde LA hasta Frisco, por la ruta 101 de la costa en compañía de buenos amigos y fue tan maravilloso el viaje que porque no escribir sobre esto.  Esta es una pequeña guía de lo que experimentamos y conocimos estos manneaticos y yo, espero la disfruten y les sea útil.

Everything started with a good road trip from LA to Frisco driving the 101 route in the company of good friends and it was so great that i decided to write about it. This is a little guide of what we experience… hope it’s useful and hope  you like it.

Primera Parada.. un viñedo es un must si vas por la carretera… acá uno dos tres especializado en Pinot  Noir.

First Stop… you must stop at any winery by the road… this one was from a Pinot Noir family, mmm so so.

San Luis Obispo. No puedes dejar de conocer el Madonna Inn una maravilla kitsch en medio de la carretera…  hotel de lujo con cuartos temáticos y un restaurante rosa, Madonna Inn Steak House y la mejor pastelería del condado sin duda alguna. : http://www.madonnainn.com/

San Luis Obispo. You must get to know this awesome kitsch place in the middle of the highway, it’s called Madonna Inn and have the best Steak House and the most eccentric cakes i ever seen.

Gorda By The Sea en (805) 927-4600 Hwy 1 Big Sur, CA 93920.   Aunque es una carretera que va derecho derecho, les recomiendo hacer una parada en este lugar   a comer una gran pero gran chocolate  chip cookie, ver ballenas y  arañas gigantes. Buena parada para  esperar que pase la neblina.

Gorda By The Sea. The highway  mostly goes straight, but you need to stop at this place before the fog leave you blindfolded, so  have a nice cappuccino and a big chocolate chip cookie. You can also watch whales or very big spiders.

Big Sur Inn.   El mejor lugar para hacer una parada y pasar la noche. http://www.deetjens.com/ los cuartos son cabañitas y hay un gato muy amigable que puede dormir contigo. El baño es de lo mejor que he visto con una bañera para enanos.  No pueden perderse del desayuno INCREIBLE, especialidad…huevos benedictinos y homemade hotcakes y scones.. una delicia. Ahora se porque Jack kerouac le dedico todo un libro…

Big Sur Inn. the best place for bed and breakfast. Its a lovely cabin with a very friendly cat that can keep you company.  The bathroom has a bathtub that looks like  a dwarf  could sleep in it, but best of all is the homemade breakfast: benedictine eggs and fresh hotcakes and scones.  Now i know why Jack Kerouac wrote a book about Big Sur

Paisajismo hacia Frisco:  San Jose, Santa Cruz, Monterey…. sea, sea, sea

Manneatic landscapes: San Jose, Santa Cruz, Monterey.

Next stop: San Francisco!!!

Mission Codename: The Filigreen Pedigree

Operative: Agent White

Objective: Infiltrate Segue Cellars and recover some of their limited production BioDynamic 2007 Anderson Valley Pinot Noir.

Mission Status: Accomplished!

Current Winery: Segue Cellars

Wine Subject: 2007 Anderson Valley Filigreen Vineyard Pinot Noir

Winemaker: Stephen Yafa

Backgrounder:

The Anderson Valley AVA in Mendocino County runs long the Anderson River, which flows northwest from near Boonville towards Navarro. The west side of the Anderson River rises to a region known as the Mendocino ridge, a higher elevation aspect than much of the inland wine growing regions in Mendocino County. It is one of California’s coolest wine growing regions with the climate most influenced by proximity coast. The region is also well known for having a diverse alluvial soil structure that supports a wide variety of grapes.

Wine Spies Tasting Profile:

Look – Deep burgundy with ruby and violet reflections through its deep clear core. Along the edges, the color remains violet and when swirled, this wine leaves random clusters of slow legs that thin as they descend to the wine below.

Smell – Medium bold in aromatics with focused herbal red cherry and raspberry fruit leading the way. Layers of floral violet, subtle dried mint leaves, earthy forest and a hint of leather emerge upon further exploration of the nose.

Feel – Smooth and dry, with silky fine grained tannins and bright but balanced acidity are interwoven with a slight dusty minerality that spreads over the palate and lingers into the finish.

Taste – Vibrant and youthful fruit flavors of red and black cherry along with tart raspberry are integrated with herbal and earthy notes. Spice, vanilla and and oak linger under the fruit and mix with this wine’s minerality.

Finish – Medium to long in length, this wine’s lingering minerality, oak, spice and bright fruit spread over the palate tempting another sip.

Conclusion – The 2007 Segue Cellars Anderson Valley Filigreen Vineyard Pinot Noir is a delicious and focused Pinot Noir that shows vivid fruit and a unique herbal and earthy character. Great minerality along with this wine’s finely textured tannins and acidity makes this wine great for pairing with food. Enjoy a bottle now, but be sure to stash a few away in the cellar as a few years in the bottle with definitely benefit this wine as it integrates and evolves.

Mission Report:

WINEMAKER INTEL BRIEFING DOSSIER

SUBJECT: Stephen Yafa

DATE OF BIRTH: 5/41

PLACE OF BIRTH: Lowell, Mass

WINE EDUCATION: No formal wine education. I’ve apprenticed to artisan winemakers, and learned what I know over the course of twenty-plus years making a variety of wines with friends, and now commercially. The best teachers by far are the vines themselves. When they’re happy there’s an excellent chance they’ll produce wine that makes you happy. That doesn’t happen by chance, in my experience as winemaker and now a vineyard owner.

CALIFORNIA WINE JOB BRIEF: The name of my winery says it all: Segue. I segued from being a writer about wine—among other things— for Wine Enthusiast, Saveur Magazine, the San Francisco Chronicle and numerous other publications to making my own commercial Pinot Noir in 2005. In the process I became a cellar rat for one crush to learn from the ground up. I spent hours in the vineyard with Pinot Noir master Greg LaFollette learning about correcting mineral deficiencies, leafing, pruning, leaf architecture, all those things that take huge amounts of time and labor to do right, but pay off in the glass. Shortcuts? I wish. A full accounting of my leap into the fermentation tank, so to speak, can be found at http://www.seguecellars.com/about.htm. Click on “Going Pro”, a 3-part series I wrote for Wines&Vines. It includes an episode where I get locked in the barrel room of DeLoach Vineyards at night. It could have been worse. I was surrounded by 5000 gallons of delicious vino.

WINEMAKING PHILOSOPHY: Pinot Noir is a delicate lady with many hidden talents. Do not force yourself on her, encourage her to reveal her talents and attributes in her own time, naturally, and be thankful for the gifts she delivers to those who treat her with respect.

SIGNATURE VARIETAL: Pinot Noir, if that’s not already apparent. I love the Russian River Valley’s earthy, cola complexity, and the lively black fruit of the Anderson Valley, Mendocino single-vineyard biodynamically grown Pinot that I make from Filigreen Vineyards.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: I was invited to pour my organic, biodynamically grown ‘07 Filigreen at an exclusive donor’s event at the Chicago Public Library honoring author Michael Pollan. The Segue Russian River received a 93 score from the Connoisseur’s Guide to California Wine, and those guys are tough. I know. I’ve tasted with them. By the way, they taste blind. They’d even give their own wives a low score if they happened to make wine that didn’t meet their standards—and yes, probably wind up sleeping in the car.

CAREER HIGHLIGHT: One of my Pinots tied for second among women out of 355 entries into the ‘08 Pinot Summit Shootout. It placed 5th among men.

WINEMAKER QUOTE: ” As in life, love, and the Tao, in wine balance is everything.”

AGENT RED: Greetings, Steve. We are thrilled to be showing your Pinot Noir today. Thanks so much for taking some time to answer questions for our Operatives today.

WINEMAKER: Hit me with your hardest.

RED: Don’t worry, Steve, I’ll go easy on you. This time.

RED: And where did you learn the most about winemaking?

STEVE: On the ground, running. Also from interviewing hundreds of winemakers as a journalist.

RED: What wine or winemaker has most influenced your winemaking style?

STEVE: Aside from Gevrey-Chambertin, and closer to home, a few of the “sauvage” Pinots made by Greg LaFollette for his winery, Tandem. Greg makes wine in a style, that in the words of another winemaker, is like standing on the corner waiting for the next accident to happen. By which he means that if you make unfiltered, unfined Pinot Noir, you are inviting Brett and every other contaminating yeast and bacterial strain to run you over. True enough. But if you succeed you come out with a wine that delivers an infinite mouthful and noseful of Pinot character. And that’s what I do. I play on the edge, where the stakes are high and the rewards are , to me, worth the risk. So far, no accidents—and if I see one looming I know who to call—Greg.

RED: How long have you been making wine?

STEVE: Informally—over 25 years; commercially, 4 years.

RED: Who do you make wine for?

STEVE: Myself. Only.

RED: Tell me, what makes the Russian River Valley so special?

STEVE: Russian River follow the fog. Cool foggy nights and mornings Goldridge volcanic, well-drained soil = earthy, loamy, cola-scented Pinot Noir. Anderson Valley: marine-influences organically rich soil = pure dark berry fruit, Indian spices.

RED: What is one piece of advice that you would give to someone that is considering a career as a winemaker?

STEVE: Have a rich father-in-law who wants to keep his daughter happy.

RED: What is occupying your time at the winery these days?

STEVE: Getting my ‘08 Filigreen in shape; smoke taint from forest fires contaminated a lot of ‘08 Mendocino wines. I’m just about clear of it now.

RED: Challenging! Please tell me a little bit about the wine we are featuring today

STEVE: It’s non-filtered, non-fined; it’s Russian River all the way for better or worse. Forest floor, bright fruit, dense, and it keeps on giving and changing as you work your way through a bottle.

RED: What is your favorite pairing with today’s wine?

STEVE: This Segue like all my wines, is meant to be drunk with food. That’s why there’s enough acid in it to make it mouth-watering and non-competitive with what you’re eating. It’s meant to accompany salmon, light cheese and chicken dishes, mushroom dishes, even veal. I don’t recommend drinking it with spicy foods or tomato-based entrees. A mushroom risotto or halibut with a minced hazelnut crust? Mais oui.

RED: Please share one thing about yourself that few people know

STEVE: I am working my way back to being a teenager as I get older. I now fly down trails on my mountain bike again and alpine ski my ass off as fast as possible. It’s not on the menu for recommended after-50 activities.

RED:What is your favorite ‘everyday’ or table wine?

STEVE: A brambly Zin or Montepulciano with pasta. Pinot with everything else I eat. I eat only veggies and fish, so my palate is limited for wines with food. I love opulent Cabs and such; I just don’t drink them daily. Whites: Honig Sauvignon Blanc. A Weingut Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner. And the sleeper-rosés. Lymar Winery in particular, also Spanish grenache-based (granacia) rosés.

RED: How would you recommend that people approach your wines, or wine in general?

STEVE: Sip by sip, smile by smile.

RED: Excellent advice. If you could choose any one wine to drink (regardless of price or availability), what would it be?

STEVE: Jean-Louis Trapet ‘04 Gevrey Chambertin Clos Ostrea

RED: What is the one question that I should have asked you, and what is your answer to that question?

STEVE: Is it an act of pure folly or enlightened passion for a wine writer to segue into making his own commercial wine? In other words, does love conquer all? Only in the movies. In the vineyard and winery diligence and hard work do the heavy lifting, but to make a delicious wine that sings in the mouth and embraces your senses like a warm hug, ah, yes, that’s worth all the effort and more.

RED: Thank you so much for your time. We learned a lot about you – and about your wine. Keep up the great work, we are big fans!

STEVE: As a writer, you generally massage people’s heads before you touch their hearts. Making a wine, that sequence in exactly reversed. Vive la difference.

Wine Spies Vineyard Check:

The location of the Filigreen Vineyard is located near Boonville, CA which can be seen in this satellite photo.

Disclaimer: I received this wine as a sample from Milliarium Cellars.

I felt like a Pinot Noir the other night, and we don’t have much of that in our own collection, so I pulled the 2007 Milliarium Split Rock Vineyard Pinot Noir from a sample box. It clocked in around 14% alcohol by volume (I neglected to record it!), had a real cork closure and retails for $46. Milliarium Cellars (which I unfortunately misspelled when I first wrote this review and am now correcting as well as adding information since I can now find the website….) is owned by John Zielinski. John, it appears, like many of us, was bit hard by the wine bug and combined his love of science with his love of wine and created Milliarium Cellars. Milliarium Cellars currently produces 2 Pinot Noirs, the Split Rock and the La Encantada which I will review in the net few weeks for you!

On the nose I found Dr. Pepper, pepper, earth, cherry, cola, spice, and raspberry.  In the mouth I got cherry, raspberry, spice, black cherry, and pepper. Overall the wine displayed fresh fruit, a long finish,  and nice acidity. We drank it with meatloaf….not the most graceful pairing, but it was fine! I’d like a bottle for my upcoming holiday feasts and parties as so many of my friends and family enjoy Pinot Noir.

Lots of wine writers are preparing our palates for Thanksgiving. Here’s a collection.

Pinot for Thanksgiving <here>

Wine Spectator’s 12 whites for Thanksgiving <here> and reds <here>

Thanksgiving sparkling wines <here>

Top 10 Thanksgiving bottles <here>

Don’t pick a turkey <here>

Wines to complement a feast <here>

What to drink from Slate <here>

Suggestions from the NYT <here>

Tim Barnes, The Last Supper, 2003

I love Thanksgiving—time spent with friends and family, remembering what it is that we’re thankful for. But truth be told, it’s the condiments and side salads that pique my palate. The bird I can take or leave. Engineered like a Malibu Barbie®, the modern day turkey is all breast, no brain, and dare I say lacking in taste? While many assert that Nirvana is to be found through brining, basting, barbequing, broiling, and even deep fat frying, they all seem like so many variations on an insipid theme.

Last year however, as we prepared to host dinner for twenty, my wife happened upon a Martha Stewart recipe that changed our Thanksgivings forever. We ordered our turkey from the local butcher and had the breast, legs and wings removed intact. Once home, we opened the breast on the counter like a book and then butterflied it again on either side so that there were now four panels. With gentle pounding, it became flat and even, about ¾” thick and two feet wide. We then coated the top with sausage and pecan stuffing, rolled the breast like a cinnamon roll, rewrapped it in the skin and covered it with cheesecloth. We trussed the whole affair with string, and voila—it was ready for the oven. The legs and wings, meanwhile, braised in the slow cooker with white wine, chicken broth, and herbs. Sound difficult? It’s not. And because the white and dark meat cook independently of one another, the breast stays moist and the dark meat falls off the bone.

The upside? Flavor, flavor, flavor. This log of savory goodness is easy to prepare and only requires an hour of cooking time (the braised dark meat cooks for about 6 hours). If you dislike carving and its requisite refresher course in anatomy, you’ll appreciate the ease in serving this turkey and the beauty of its presentation.  And for that, I give thanks.

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If you’re willing to rethink your holiday fare, then may I suggest a new accompaniment? Like Pinot Noir and Champagne, sommeliers know that Dry Riesling is a go-to wine for a host of comestibles. Its fruit and acidity enable it to stand up equally to tart cranberry sauce, earthy bird and creamy gravy. On a recent business trip, Sloane and I stopped at Trefethen—one of the few Napa Valley wineries to produce Dry Riesling. That’s due in part to their Carneros location, which tends to be cooler.  The 2008 Trefethen Oak Knoll District Dry Riesling should be served just below room temperature. Any colder, and you run the risk of muting the aromatics and flavors of this mouth watering white. It is very pale and elegant in color, with a beautiful nose of lime, stone fruit and jasmine. The palate has a zippy core of acidity running through the intense lemon, lime and mineral notes. The finish is long and rounds out nicely at the end. Unlike many whites, Riesling will age for years, oftentimes evolving in flavor. Zeke Neeley—winemaker at Trefethen—notes that the optimal age for a Riesling is subjective. He feels his wine hits its peak about five years after bottling, in which time it will develop iconic petrol aromas. His wife however, prefers the wine young and crisp. Either way, it’s a fantastic pairing with turkey.